Monday 30 November 2020

"......To all the boots I've worn before...."

My tramping footwear rogues gallery...


Here is my gallery of tramping boots/shoes I have worn and destroyed, I will add to this as time goes on! I intend to include before and after shots, and make some comment on quality, fit etc.

Wearing my Lowa Tibets in the  Waimakiriri Valley, 2018


Hi Tec Bryce, light hiking boot  (2012-2015) (Retired)

I brought a pair of these in 2012, I just didn't have the cash to buy a more rugged pair of boots because of all of the other tramping gear I needed at the time. They have worked well and have seen me through all of my trips over Spring/Summer/Autumn 2012-13.


Wearing my Hi-Tec Bryce boots at Ryde Falls, Oxford Forest Park in 2013

 I didn't expect them to last but I have been pleasantly surprised with how well they have stood up.  The uppers are still fine,  they have just starting to show signs of wear. I think they are good value for the $140 asking price. I will continue to use them for formed tracks i.e. those on the Port Hills, these could also be used on the Great Walks.


Light fabric Hi Tec Bryce boots,  purchased in 2012




Wearing my Hi Tecs up the East Hawdon Valley, 2013

Hi-Tec Bryce boots midway up the Hawdon Valley in 2014


July 2014: I have been using these boots for my fitness walking for about the last year, they are still holding out fine, I estimate I will need to dispose of them later this year as they have started to wear down on the sole. 

2017: I am only using these in the garden now as the stitching has started to unravel- they will get chucked when no longer useful 

Note: 2018 The Hi-Tecs have gone to the great tramping home in the sky...



Kathmandu Barigan, medium boot (2013-2017) (Retired)


I have recently acquired a pair of these boots for the very reasonable price of $100, they are a replacement for the Hi-Tec boots I have been using. I know Kathmandu does not have great name when it comes to durability, even if they only last a season they will have repaid my investment. Significantly they have a hard Vibram sole and are much stiffer than the Hi Tec's. 
Kathmandu Barigan, 2013
At the half way point in the Nina Valley in 2015


July 2014: I used these boot for all of the 2013/14/15 tramping season and found them very comfortable. Unfortunately they are starting to delaminate (a common problem), I have glued them up and will use them for day walks on the Port Hills etc. I should get a least another years use out of them on these shorter trips. They lasted as my primary boots for a year so they were worth the $100 I paid for them.


Wearing the Barigans on the Abel Tasman Coastal Track, 2017


Sept 2017: I wore these very successfully on the Abel Tasman Coast Walk although they are now finished as tramping boots.  I had to glue and tape them up a bit to use but my repairs lasted the full four days without problems.


The Barigans after completing the Abel Tasman Coastal Track 2017


2021: Still using them around the house for yard work.... 



Asolo 535 TPS, medium boot (2013-2020) (Donated)

I brought myself a pair of Asolo 535 boots for the rocky gravel bashing trips I sometimes go on. These boots are from a good quality European maker, they have a much stiffer sole and the ubiquitous Vibram sole on them. I'm in the process of wearing them in as we speak. Obviously, because they are made in Europe the price is steeper, $500 for this type and brand.


Asolo 535 full leather boots, 2013

December 2020: I have given these boots to a work colleague who tramps as they were slightly too small for my feet. He has been using them on some tramps over the last six months and says he likes them. They are excellent boots so I will potentially buy a larger size some time in the future.



La Sportiva Valojet, medium boot (2014 -2020 ) (Donated)


I've recently brought myself a new pair of leather boots for the coming Summer tramping season. I have been wearing a pair of Kathmandu boots but as is the case with their gear they have started to fall to bits. These boots are Italian, La Sportiva Valojets, a medium weight leather boot with a Goretex liner, with a good quality Vibram sole. These ones were $350 on sale, normally $600.

La Sportiva Valojet, 2014


aaaaaaaa
Wearing my La Sportiva boots on the QCT in 2016


The Valojets on the Harpers Pass track in 2017


Wearing the Valojets on the climb to Fyffe Hut in 2016

Update 2018: I have been using these very successfully for several years now and they are awesome. Comfortable right out of the box, quality materials and great workmanship are worth paying for in my opinion. The soles are still fine, the only damage is a rip in the rubber rand I got on the third trip wearing these boots (barbed wire fence...). 


La Sportiva boots are fantastic, I would buy these again but unfortunately they have gone out of production. 

2020: I have donated these boots to a charity box after they sat in my garage for three years without use. 


Lowa Tibet GTX, boots (2017-)   (Current Boots)


My newest and most expensive piece of tramping kit ever is a pair of Lowa Tibet boots. My La Sportiva's are starting to wear on the sole at toe and heel which is common for me. To this end I purchase a new pair of boots before the old ones wear out. I am currently wearing these in by wearing them to work and around the house.

Lowa Tibet GTX boots: I have big feet...size 13UK/14US/49EU

Lowa is a well known German company with a reputation for quality gear. These boots are great but quality comes at a cost...they cost an arm and a leg...$700 NZD for a pair. 


Lowa Tibet GTX boots: the lacing system

Lowa Tibet GTX boots: the chunky Vibram sole

I've used these boots on a number of tramps now and they have performed very well. They are heavier than some others I have worn but excellent for rough muddy tracks and off track travel. they were excellent on the Travers-Sabine Circuit...that is their real home gnarly tracks in alpine and rocky areas. The Tibet's would be great with crampons fitted as they have a solid firm sole. 



Wearing my Lowa's at the Packhorse Bivvy, 2018

Lowa Tibets on the Travers-Sabine Circuit, Nelson Lakes NP in early 2018

 I have recently brought another pair of Lowa's in this case the lighter Lowa Ranger III, so I currently have two excellent pairs of boots to wear as the terrain dictates. 

Lowa Ranger III (2018 -  ) (Current boots)

My Lowa Tibets are awesome boots but I also needed some lighter weight boots for walking the more front country tracks like the Great Walks (like the Abel Tasman Coast Track) and other less rugged trips.

The Lowa Ranger III boot 

I went with Lowa once again and brought a pair of their Ranger III's in a sale at Hunting and Fishing in late 2017. These are a lot lighter than the Lowa Tibet's but with the same excellent materials, comfort and craftsmanship.  

Great Vibram soles on the Lowa Ranger III

I'm currently wearing them in before putting them to use later this year...

Front view of the Ranger III boots


These boots have now be on a number of trips and I could not be happier with them. Comfortable right from the box, rugged and the soles are very grippy on wet surfaces. A real pleasure to use....this is now my preferred brand and type of boot. 


In my Lowa Rangers on MacKinnon Pass, Milford Track in December 2018...photobombed!!!
Heading up to the Bealey Glacier in 2018...
 
At the end of the Kepler Track in March 2021....




Asics Men's Gel Sonoma 4E, Trail Shoes (2015- ) (Current) (pair number four in use)

These are my current general purpose trail shoes, I am onto my fourth pair of these. I use these for general fitness walking as well as trips along the Port Hills and on day trips when the weather is fine. I wouldn't use these for a long trail like the Te Araroa, although they might make fair work of even that trail.

Asics Men's Gel Sonoma 4E Trail Shoes

My first pair lasted for about 14 months before they started to fall to bits. For $150 that is pretty good going when you consider that I use them for at least one 10-15 km walk every second weekend. I suppose I could go for a $300 pair of Asolo/Salewa/North Face/Innov8 trail walking shoes but why, these work just fine. 
Sole on Sonoma Trail shoes

I brought them from Rebel Sport, they are still available at the time of writing (September 2016).

When my second pair wear out I will definitely buy these again if they are still available. 

My Asics Sonomas in use on the Christchurch 360 trail, 2016


Note: 2018 I'm currently wearing my fourth pair of these fine shoes, they are becoming difficult to source so I will be looking for something else to wear at some stage...



Salomon XA Pro 3D trail runners (2017- ) (Current)


I have a pair of Salomon XA Pro trail runners for walking sections of the Te Araroa Trail. These ar available in New Zealand but I had to buy mine from Amazon US as they do not sell a US size 14 in New Zealand and that is the size shoe I wear. 


The Salomon XAPro 3D trail runner

Good chunky soles on these Salomon shoes


Ive worn these enough to wear them in and have used them on a couple of short walks on the Port Hills but have yet to utilise them on the Te Araroa. I will use these for much of the North Island Trail as trail runners are more suited to the conditions there (with lots of road waking).  I will use boots for the alpine sections of the South Island  and shoes on the flatter sections from Canterbury down to Bluff. 


Speed laces and airy mesh to keep the feet cool....


These were the main type of TA footwear a couple of years ago but people seem to have moved on to other brands; Hoka, North Face and La Sportiva seem to be the favorites at the moment (2018).



Hi-Tec Trail Blazer Outdoors Shoes (2015-2017 ) (Retired)

I was using a pair of these before I switched to the Asics shown above.  I mainly purchased them because they were cheap ($130 NZD) at a time when I could not afford better quality footwear.

Hi-Tec Trail Blazer Trail shoe

Wearing the Blazers on a section of the Christchurch 360 Trail



 These shoes were good for the first 4 months and then they started to disintegrate. First the inner soles wore through so I replaced with after market versions. Next the stitching started to unravel, this was repaired. I finally retired them when the sole delaminated, I have glued the sole back on but they cannot be trusted over a long distance. 

Hi Tec shoes are fine for around town but I just don't think they are rugged enough for trail use. 

I use these around the garden now.


Note: 2018 The Blazers have gone to the great tramping home in the sky...



Keen Newport H2 Hiking Sandal, (2017-  ) (Current)

It may come as a bit of a surprise, but hiking sandals can be a great option for a casual hiker. Sandals are light, which means you aren’t going to expend as much energy moving your feet over the course of the trip. They are perfect for water crossings or as camp shoes. Many people prefer a sandal with some kind of toe guard to help protected against rocks and roots.

Keen Newport H2 sandal


Hiking sandals are best used for short well maintained trails or as a lite back up when their primary boots are temporarily out of commission. An example would be the Abel Tasman Coastal Track during summer. Nice, well graded tracks, a lot of tidal crossings, warm weather conditions.

For perspective, some chap walked the whole 3000 km Te Araroa Trail in sandals a couple of years ago, so just walking the Abel Tasman would be luxury...ay, sheer luuuxxxurriiieeeee!

Naresh Kumar walked the whole 300 kilometer Te Araroa Trail in sandals



I have a pair of Keen Newport sandals which I occasionally wear around the place. I have yet to use these on a tramp because I just do not think sandals are a good tramping shoe for me. I could have used these on either of my Able Tasman Coastal Walks...I saw a number of other trampers wearing similar footwear. 


Sunday 29 November 2020

Hut bagging....and a review of huts I have visited

Breaking the hut bagging double century.....

As you may know I am a member of the Hut Bagger website....this is a place where you can keep a record of the back-country huts you have visited over the years. In recent years I have tailoring a number of my trip towards acquiring more huts...it is an excellent way to motivate you to visit places outside your usual orbit. 

Rakuira Track Biodiversity Bivouac....my 199th hut visited!!!

On my recent trip to Rakuira I achieved a milestone of sorts...I visited my 197, 198, 199 and 200th back country huts. Two hundred sounds like a lot of huts but it pales in comparison to other notable people on the Hut Bagger site who have visited 800-900 huts over the years.


Jacks Hut in Arthurs Pass National Park...my first back-country hut

The first back-country hut I ever visited was Jacks Hut in Arthur's Pass National Park in 1981 or 1982. Back then school groups used to visit the park on the regular passenger train to Greymouth. I think the train cost about $20-30 dollars return...unfortunately it is now $300 since it became a tourist focused 'Great Journey". 

We went to Arthur's Pass in Standard 3/4 (year 5/6 I think...) and one of the things we did while there was to walk up to the then extant Bealey Glacier going past Jacks Hut. Jacks Hut has been a roadman's hut, trampers hut, personal holiday home and historic site over its 100+ years. 

The 200th hut I visited was North Arm Hut on Rakuira/Stewart Island about as far removed in age, size and form as you can get. They are both still shelter from the storm so their function is exactly the same. 


North Arm Hut on the Rakuira Track was my 200th hut visited...

Anyway I thought it might be interesting to look at some of the interesting and or significant huts I have visited over the years. 


Other huts in my tramping history...

Here are a few other notable huts I have visited over the years..


My latest hut bagged: Lake MacKenzie hut, Routeburn Track

I recently finished the Routeburn Track which was my 10th and last Great Walk. Lake MacKenzie hut is located on the second to last day of the Routeburn Track at the picturesque Lake MacKenzie in the Ailsa Mountains in Fiordland National Park. This is now the oldest hut on the Routeburn track (built in the late 1970's) and must be just about due to be replaced. 

Lake MacKenzie Hut, Routeburn Track, Fiordland NP

Lake MacKenzie would be a great spot for a dip in the summer but as I was there at the end of March it was a bit cold...

Lake MacKenzie is in front of the hut...

Previous huts visited: Harris Saddle Shelter, Routeburn Falls Hut, Routeburn Falls Lodge, Routeburn Flats Hut...


Quirky huts: Lighthouse Generator Hut, Awaroa/Godley Heads

One of the newest huts in New Zealand is the Lighthouse Generator Hut at Awaroa/Godley Head on the Port Hills. Originally built in 1940 the hut was renovated from one of the old defense buildings attached to the WWII gun batteries at Godley Head. It was was officially opened in late December 2020 and is now open for use. It is a bookable sole occupancy 4 bunk hut with a full kitchen and is located adjacent to the DOC campsite at Godley Head. 



Lighthouse Generator Hut, Awaroa/Godley Heads

This hut is currently closed as DOC are removing Asbestos from one of the buildings close to this one but it is due to reopen shortly. 

Most nights spent in: Magdalen Hut II, Lake Sumner Forest Park


This is the hut I have stayed the most nights in...9 nights in total...I really love this 6 bunker just off the St James Walkway and always schedule a night in the hut if I am visiting the area. I have had this hut totally to myself on four of my six visits. 

Magdalen Hut on the St James Walkway

This is a fine example of the modern six bunk hut and I have see this exact same design in a number of places around the country. The hut is set in a big forest clearing with great views of the surrounding mountain ranges and the Boyle River is only five minutes walk from the hut. 

The interior of Magdalen Hut, St James Conservation Area

The hut I have spent the second most nights in is Lakehead Hut at Nelson Lakes NP which I have slept in for nine nights as well. Lakehead Hut is a great destination in its own rights but it is also on the way to the Upper Travers Valley, Travers Saddle, Travers-Sabine Circuit, Te Araroa Trail and Lake Rotoiti Circuit. 


Lakehead Hut, Nelson Lakes NP

Interior of Lakehead Hut, Nelson Lakes National Park

I always enjoy walking out of the forest to see that first glimpse of the hut...sometimes with smoke coming out of the chimney. It is a 24 bunk hut with a nearby campsite and has some awesome views of the Travers Valley. This hut is slated for eventual removal and replacement as it is on the extreme edge of an avalanche chute. 

Other huts I have frequently stayed at are: Bark Bay Hut (5 nights), Hawdon Hut (4 nights), Packhorse Hut (4 nights), Awaroa/Anchorage Huts (4 nights), Rod Donald Hut (4 nights)

Most visited: Packhorse Hut, Te Ara Pataka,  Banks Peninsula


Every tramper I know has a special hut that they return to often, one that just gets under your skin and compels you to visit on a regular basis. Some people have more than one hut they feel this way about. For me that hut is the Packhorse on Banks Peninsula...I have only spent four nights in the hut but have visited it 12 times now.


Packhorse Hut, Kaituna Saddle, Banks Peninsula

Packhorse Hut is now more than 110 years old...originally built as part of Harry Ell's plan for a tramping route right around Lyttleton Harbor. It has had a renovation and new lease of life with the growing interest in Te Ara Pataka a multiday track from Hilltop Tavern to Gebbies Pass. 

Sleeping quarters in Packhorse Hut, Banks Peninsula

The Rod Donald Trust have recently (2021) purchased the area of land from the top of Mt Herbert to the Remarkable Dykes. It will become a new Reserve and will include the area of land around Packhorse Hut thus protecting it for the future. 


Me standing outside Packhorse Hut in 2018

With four tracks to the hut and awesome views from its perch on Kaituna Saddle it is a must visit for any Canterbury tramper. It is a great day walk destination as there are four ways to walk to the hut all of which take from 2-6 hours return. 

Other frequently visited huts are: Lakehead Hut (6 times), Magdalen Hut (6 times), Rod Donald Hut (6 times), Hawdon Hut (5 times), John Tait Hut (5 times), Awaroa/Bark Bay/Anchorage Huts (5 times), Manson-Nichols Hut I/II (5 times)


Oldest hut visited: Jacks Hut, Arthurs Pass NP


I have visited a number of huts which are more than 100 years old over the years...usually they are old musterer's huts that came into the DOC estate during tenure review. Some of them are also dedicated recreation huts that were built by various tramping clubs over the years.

Jacks Hut, Arthurs Pass National Park


The oldest hut I have ever visited is actually Jacks Hut in Arthurs Pass National Park. Jacks Hut is on SH 73 about 3 kilometers west of the village and on the mid point of the Arthurs Pass Walking Track. It was originally built in 1879 as a roadman's hut at Rough Creek and then moved to this current location in 1909. 

It was privately owned by the Butler family from 1929 to 1999 for use as a bach before reverting to DOC as a historic place. It was fully restored in 2004 and while it is permanently locked there are a number of interesting information panels visible inside the hut. 

DOC information panel at Jacks Hut, Arthurs Pass NP

DOC information panel at Jacks Hut, Arthurs Pass NP


Other notable older huts I have visited include Porters Pass Roadmans Hut (1890's), Bealey Spur Hut (1895), Lake Emma Hut (late 1890's), Old Waihohonu Hut (1903), Whariwharangi Hut (1905),  and the Farewell Spit Lighthouse Keepers Hut (early1900's).

Oldest hut stayed in overnight: Westlawn Hut, ATG Waiouru

Slightly different from the entry above is the oldest hut I have actually spent a night in...


The grand old lady....Westlawn Hut, Tongariro National Park


The oldest hut I have stayed overnight in is Westlawn Hut...officially in Tongariro National Park although actually it is on the Waiouru Army Training Area in the Central North Island. Westlawn was built in the early 1890's as a farm house but is now used as a recreation hut by trampers and hunters in the military services. I stayed here a couple of times in the 1980-1990's when I served in the New Zealand Army.

Another notable old huts I have spent a night in are Whariwharangi Hut (1905) and Packhorse Hut (1910). 


Whariwharangi Hut in Abel Tasman National Park

I have also stayed in a number of huts from the 1920's, 1930's and 1940's.  


Largest Hut visited (non Great Walk): Carrington Hut, Arthur's Pass NP

Most backcountry huts are quite modest in size...usually from 2-16 bunks with the majority either 6 bunks or 10/12 bunks. There are some much larger buildings though...Great Walk huts, guided walk lodges and the odd DOC monster like the infamous 80 bunk Pinnacles Hut in the Coromandel.


Carrington Hut, Arthur's Pass National Park...gateway to the Three Passes, Barker Hut and Waimakiriri Falls

I have stayed in several large huts for example West Sabine Hut (32 bunks), McKellar (28 bunks) and Mintaro/Clinton/Dumpling Hut (at 40 bunks each). The largest non great walk hut I have stayed at is actually Carrington Hut in Arthur's Pass NP. This beauty is at the head of the Waimakiriri River and at 36 bunks is one of the largest non bookable standard/serviced huts in New Zealand.

Interior of Carrington hut, Arthurs Pass NP


Great tramping locations from this hut: Mt Harper, Barker Hut, Three Passes Route, Waimakiriri Falls, and Waimakiriri Col. It is a Canterbury trampers classic...I would argue you are not a true tramper from Canterbury if you have never visited Carrington Hut. 

See also McKellar Hut (24 bunks), Woolshed Creek (26 bunks), West Sabine Hut (30 bunks), Hope-Kiwi Lodge (20 bunks)


Largest Hut visited (Great Walk): Luxmore Hut, Kepler Track


Great Walk huts are all about excess...because they are catering for a lot of international visitors they tend to be newer, larger and more lavishly appointed than your old NZFS 6 bunker. I have stayed in a number of Great Walk Huts now but the largest I have yet visited is Luxmore Hut on the Kepler Track.


Luxmore Hut, Kepler Track, Fiordland NP

Luxmore Hut is either the first or last hut you stay at depending on the direction you are walking. It is 50+ bunks (they have five additional mattresses) and has the level of amenity you would expect from one of the major Great Walks. It is nestled in a gully high above Lake Te Anau and sits at over 1200 meters. It is a rebuild from the early 2000's after the previous hut here proved too small to handle the number of visitors it received. 

Side view of Luxmore Hut from the heli pad


Some people think these monster huts are an atrocity on nature but I disagree. They are a unique style suited to mass tramping and eventually develop a charm of their own. It is interesting how they have adapted a design to fit into the natural environment the hut finds itself in. The use of low key exterior colors helps to blend it into the background and its location in a gully means it does not stand out from a distance
 
The 50 space bunkroom at Luxmore Hut

The ability to contain all the visitors at one time is important with a hut of this size so the living/dinning area is large to accommodate everyone in inclement weather. There are also extensive verandas around the hut for extra living space. 


Part of the dinning/living area at Luxmore Hut

Other notable Great Walks Huts I have visited are Iris Burn (50), Clinton/Mintaro/Dumpling Huts (all 40 bunks), Moturau (40),  Panekire Hut (36 bunks), Heaphey Hut II (32 bunks), Howden Hut (32 bunks), Anchorage (26 bunks), John Coull Hut (24 bunks) 


Highest Hut visited: Mueller IV Hut, Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park


New Zealand is a high mountainous country with a long and distinguished history of climbing facilitated to a large part by the Southern Alps. With several mountains over 3000 meters and dozens of others over 2000 meters they have always acted as a training ground for those with a passion for heights. Because of this interest there are a number of high altitude mountain huts scattered around the country. 

Mueller Hut IV...removed in 2003

I am not a climber so I have not visited many of our high altitude huts...but I have been to a couple. The highest hut I have ever stayed in was the fourth Mueller Hut (1957-2003) in Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park. 

The current Mueller Hut (V) at Aoraki/Mt Cook NP

Resting at 1820 meters this is by far the highest hut I have visited...it has spectacular views of the surrounding mountains such as Aoraki/Mt Cook (3724) and Mt Sefton (3151) and several glaciers. It is a long, hard but not technical spot to visit over the summer months...in winter it is for climbers only. 

Other notable high huts I have visited are the Temple Basin huts at 1600 asl and some of the Mt Ruapehu/Wakapapa Ski Field huts at between 1600-1700 meters. Also Relax Shelter (1420), NSC Kea Hut (1350), Hanging Valley Shelter (1342), Bushline Hut (1290),  Harris Saddle Shelter (1277),  Forest Burn Shelter (1270), Upper Travers Hut at (1340), Luxmore Hut (1200), Blue Lake Hut at (1190), McKinnon Pass Shelter at (1150) and Mt Fyffe at (1103) are also getting there.  


My favorite hut: John Tait Hut, Nelson Lakes National Park


Nelson Lakes NP is my favorite tramping destination in New Zealand...I love its long golden valleys and high mountains peaks crossed by a number of passes and saddles. Behind Arthur's Pass it is really my tramping home ground I spend equal amounts of time in each park. 

My favorite hut in the park is mid way up the Traver's Valley...it is John Tait Hut. 


John Tait Hut, mid region of Travers Valley, Nelson Lakes NP

Interior of John Tait Hut, Nelson Lakes NP

John Tait is not the largest, newest or most picturesque hut but I just love it...it is a great example of the old style mid sized tramping hut. It is a workman like, no frills but well thought out design suited to most locations. I like the platform bunks...the centrally located wood burner..the long stainless steel bench...the awesome river views from the hut veranda. 

It is a real cracker!!! 

The Travers River is right next to John Tait Hut


John Tait is right in the middle of a avalanche chute so it is slated for removal and a new hut is going to be built a bit further down river. It is a damn shame....I have had some great nights in this hut.

Bark Bay Hut on the Abel Tasman is my second favorite hut...it reminds me a lot of John Tait in that it does its job in an understated way and has a class and style of its own. Anchorage is flasher...Awaroa has a better view but this is by far my most beloved hut in Abel Tasman National Park. 

Bark Bay Hut, Abel Tasman National Park

Other huts in my top 10 are: Luxmore Hut, Packhorse Hut, Woolshed Creek Hut, Hawdon Hut, Rod Donald Hut, Port William Hut, Fenella Hut, Fyffe Hut and Panikere Hut


Best hut converted from another structure: Otamahua/Quail Island Hut, Quail Island, Banks Peninsula

Otamahua is not a brand new hut...it is an old farm cottage renovated in late 2019 in fine fashion to provide an easy introductory tramping experience for people in Canterbury. It opened for visits in January 2020 and is already wildly popular with families, groups and individuals....

Otamahua Hut on Quail Island, Banks Peninsula


Otamahua/Quail Island is in the middle of Lyttleton Harbor and has been used over the years as a penal colony, leper colony, quarantine station and farm. It is now owned by DOC but administered by a trust who are in the process of re-foresting the island in the native bush it was once covered with.


Interior of the Otamahua Hut on Quail Island, Banks Peninsula

Quail Island can be reached by water-taxi from the Port of Lyttleton and should be a must visit location for anyone who lives in Canterbury. 

Most recently built hut: Casey Hut II, Arthur's Pass NP (August 2020)

Fantastic news for Canterbury trampers, the long overdue replacement for Casey Hut has finally finished its protracted build. The original Casey Hut burnt to the ground in late 2015 and DOC Arthur's Pass did not have the finances to build a new hut. 


Casey Hut No. 1, Arthur's Pass NP circa 2014....

Casey Hut No. 1 was a Lockwood kit set design from the 1970's so lots of varnished wood inside...one of my favorite types of back-country hut. Unfortunately all that varnish means these go up like a fire starter if sparks or embers get loose inside.


Another photo of the old Casey Hut No. 1, Poulter Valley

The consensus at the time was someone forgot to shut the firebox fully or they left hot ashes in a bucket which tipped over and caught fire. However it happened the hut was totally destroyed leaving a huge gap for those wanting to visit the Upper Poulter River Valley. 

The Casey Hut site after the fire which destroyed the hut


The money for the new hut ($300 000) was a donation from some local trampers...all I can say is you are bloody legends!!!

I have discovered that the two main donors are Mr Robert Birks and Dr Sharon English...in conjunction with the Nature Heritage Fund, DOC and FMC. Robert Birks is also the person who donated money for the building of Waiau Hut on the Waiau Pass Track in 2019.  


From myself and others who love Arthur's Pass NP and the Poulter River in particular I would like to thank both of you whole heartedly. I appreciate what you have done...






The new hut is a 12 person version with a large veranda and deck around the outside of the hut and large capacity water storage.  It has solar lighting, a number of commemorative panels inside and a really lovely object d'arte above the cooking benches. The new hut is about 800 meters east of the old location on a slight rise with excellent views of the Poulter River Valley and closer to the Poulter River.

It is also missing a few things...a box for DOC hut ticket stubs, a wood box for firewood, indoor taps or an indoor sink. Minor inconveniences really that can be rectified going forward. 



Map: Casey Hut II: red is the site of the old hut, blue the site of Casey II


I visited the hut in late October 2020 as I have long wanted to have another go at the Casey-Binser Circuit Track and I want to bag the six huts further up the Poulter Valley. These are Poulter Biv, Worsley Hut, Poulter Hut, Minchin Biv, Trust/Poulter Hut and Ranger Biv. There is an additional hut down valley on the true left of the Poulter called Turnbull Biv but I have previously visited this hut.


Concept drawing of the new Casey Hut in Arthur's Pass NP...


Casey Hut II in the flesh....


I look forward to the new hut appearing on the next iteration of the New Zealand topomap series...due out in 2021.

Here are some photos of the hut under construction...


State of the new Casey Hut in May 2020...

State of the new Casey Hut in May 2020...


There is a lovely veranda on the hut...wide, well proportioned and well constructed. Pity that it is sandfly hell and you can only last 30 seconds outside....

Casey Hut II: the wide veranda, solar panels

Casey Hut II: dedication panel inside hut

Casey Hut II: interior view of sleeping platforms

Casey Hut II: interior showing table and benches


The new Casey Hut officially opened on the 22nd August 2020 during Conservation Week. It will be great to once again have a hut halfway around the Casey-Binser Route. I have been anticipating this for some time and have already experienced the first of what I hope are many future visits. 




It is a really nice hut and with its new position looking up and down the Poulter River is in a prime location. Sure to be super busy for some time to come eventually it will gain just as many stalwart fans as the old hut had. 

Other recent hut additions are  Lighthouse Generator Hut (2021), Kohanga Atawai/Manson-Nichols Hut (2020), Waiau Hut (2019), Otamatua/Quail Island Hut (2019),  Packhorse Biv (2018), Rod Donald Hut (2018) and Rakuira Track Biodiversity Biv (2017)...

Memorial Huts: Kohanga Atawhai/Manson Nicholls Hut, Lake Daniells

The original Manson-Nicholls Hut was a memorial hut built by the family and friends of three Canterbury Tramping Club members who perished when the old Lake Daniells Fishing Hut was destroyed in a landslide back in 1974. Brian and Sharon Manson and Philip Nicholls were killed instantly while a fourth person was seriously injured. 

An information panel about the Easter disaster...

A group of close friends and family decided to build a new hut in memory of the victims and it faithfully served as a treasured tramping destination for over 40 years. 


The Manson-Nicholls Memorial Hut back in 2016...

Back in 2017 DOC did a survey of the hut and decided that it needed to be replaced as it had multiple serious problems with the structure. It was not going to be cost effective to repair the hut and it was not configured well for the needs of modern families and school groups who often used the hut. A decision was made to replace the structure...the new hut named Kohanga Atawhai/Manson-Nicholls Hut is the result.


The brand new Kohanga Atawhai/Manson-Nicholls Hut at Lake Daniells

The new hut is an absolute beauty...it is a 20 bunker with a generous dining/living area and has a dedicated Hut Wardens quarters, a new covered campsite shelter and several other out buildings. It has been built to allow expansion in the future as required and I am sure it will be a much treasured asset for many decades to come. I am pleased they kept the Manson-Nicholls name as it is important to treasure our tramping history. 


Kohanga Atawhai/Manson-Nicholls Hut: the new campsite cooking shelter

Kohanga Atawhai/Manson-Nicholls Hut: interior of the dining/living space

DOC took the bold decision to enlarge the clearing the hut was in...I think it was a good choice. It is now much more airy and the hut will be bathed in sunlight for most of the day. There is also more dry land for tents thus allowing more people to enjoy the area. There is firewood from the downed trees for at lest 5 years as a by product.

Other memorial huts I have visited: Fenella Hut, Rod Donald Hut, John Heywood Hut, Mytton's Hut, Ces Clarke Hut 

A tent camp hut: Cobb Valley Tent Camp, Kahurangi National Park

I recently spent a weekend exploring the Cobb Valley Inland from Takaka in Kahurangi National Park. I walked up the valley to Fenella Hut but on the way I passed the historic Cobb Tent Camp. 


Cobb Tent Camp, Kahurangi NP


A tent camp is a tent that is shaped like a hut and has a separate living space with a fireplace and a closed in sleeping area. They are made of heavy duty canvas over beech poles and were a well used design back in the deer culler days. 

Information panels inside Cobb Tent Camp

The sleeping area in Cobb Tent Camp

It took time to build a hut and in the interim the NZFS or Department of Internal Affairs would build a tent camp. Many of these stood for decades...the canvas would last for a good 15-20 years. The ones that remain are not original as all of them have been recreated for historical purposes. 


Cobb Tent Camp in Kahurangi National Park in 2020

Cobb Tent Camp has a picnic table and fire pit

A historic meat safe at Cobb Tent Camp


There used to be dozens of these scattered around the country but there are less than five now with a couple in the North Island, this tent camp and Soper Shelter also in Kahurangi NP. A fascinating reminder of days gone by....

Most remote hut ever visited: Lake Christabel/Caroline Creek Bivouac/James McKay Hut


I had to really think about this one alot...it really comes down to how you define remoteness. Is it defined by how far from a road it is or how many days it takes to walk there or is it a feeling of remoteness. Any of the three are apt definitions for the purposes of this post. Given these questions I have chosen three huts to define remote...


Most remote feeling: Lake Christabel Hut

Lake Christabel hut is a 10 bunker in the Victoria Forest Park just southwest of Lewis Pass. It is only one days tramp from a road but it is one hell of a day...22 km's or 8-9 hours of technically easy yet physically demanding walking. It sits at the far end of Lake Christabel on a nice river terrace and is a starting point for trips into the backcountry in the area.

Lake Christabel, Victoria Forest Park

Lake Christabel Hut, Victoria Forest Park


I feel like it is remote because I visited the hut on my own and I was the only person in the valley over the three days I was there...I didn't see another soul the whole time. To tell you the truth it kind of freaked me out a bit...especially when a Possum tried to violently enter the hut at 2am in the morning.


Interior of Lake Christabel Hut, Victoria Forest Park

A similar hut is Waipakihi Hut in the Kaimanawa Range...it is only four hours from a road but its absolutely the back of beyond in there.  


Most days to get there: Caroline Creek Bivouac

Back when I served in the Army we did an exercise where we walked from Hanmer to St Arnaud over the Waiau Pass. This was another of those 'make work' exercises we did to fill in time and because one of the Sergeants wanted to walk over Waiau Pass. One of the places we stopped at was Caroline Creek Bivouac at the head of the Waiau River. 

Caroline Creek Bivouac, St James Conservation Area


Caroline Creek Bivouac is 3-4 days walk from both Hanmer and St Arnaud so it is at the near halfway point between the two. It is not much of a bivouac...a small two bunker with canvas sacking bunks, a small bench and side table, a toilet and about a billion sandflies. We did not linger but only stopped to use the conveniences before heading on our way. 

There is now a much nicer hut located an hour down the Waiau River...Waiau Hut was built in 2018 from a donation by Mr Robert Birks. 

Similar huts include Marauiti (3 days walk) on the Lake Waikaremoana Track. 


Furthest from a road: Old James MacKay Hut

James McKay Hut is on the Heaphy Track in Kahurangi National Park at the northwest corner of the South Island. I walked the Heaphy Track back in the early 1990's and the old James McKay Hut was one of the places we passed on our way to Kohaihai on the West Coast. 

The old James Mckay Hut, Heaphy Track, Kahurangi NP

The Heaphy Track is 85 kilometers long and James Mckay Hut is at the mid point so it is roughly 40 km's from a road in each direction. This hut is as far from a road end as I have visited...it isn't that far to be frank but there you are.

Others are: Farewell Spit Keepers House (36 kms from road), MacKinnon Pass Shelter (30+ kms), Christopher Hut (30+ kms), Hanging Valley Shelter (30+ km's)


Huts I have visited that are no longer with us: Various locations


Some were removed, others were destroyed in fires, slips or floods etc...all sadly missed!!

Mueller IV, Aoraki/Mt Cook NP...removed in 2003

Hawdon Hut I, Arthur's Pass NP...burnt down in 2003

Casey Hut I, Arthur's Pass NP...burnt down in 2015

Howden Hut, Routeburn Track, Fiordland...hit by landslide in 2020!!!

Nina Hut I, Lake Sumner FP...removed in 2005

Rollo Wilkinson's Hut in the Abel Tasman being removed in 2017

Old Manson-Nicholls Memorial Hut, Lake Daniell, Lewis Pass...replaced in 2020

Howard Hut, Nelson Lakes NP...removed late 1990's

Old Speargrass Hut, Nelson Lakes NP...removed early 2000's

Old Sabine Hut, Nelson Lakes NP...removed early 2000's

Old Anchorage Hut was an interesting design....it is almost a carbon copy of Port William Hut on Rakuira but also has features of Bark Bay Hut as well. I visited it way back in the early 1990's and it was replaced with a new hut in the mid 2010's...

Old Anchorage Hut, Abel Tasman NP...removed mid 2000's


I am now on my way past my 290th back-country hut...at my current rate of hut bagging (roughly 10-30 huts a year) I should be up around 400 by the time I am 60....something to look forward too!!!