Thursday 21 January 2021

Excellent tramps within three hours drive of Christchurch...

Suggestions for tramping trips close to Christchurch...

I saw a post on Facebook the other day asking for good walks close to Christchurch so I thought I would showcase some of my favorite tramps around Canterbury. We are really spoiled for choice here...I could easily have talked about five times this number of trip destinations.

The Canterbury Plains from the Sugarloaf carpark, Port Hills

These are all within three hours drive of Christchurch and range in length from day walks right up to multi day tramping experiences. All of these trips are on the eastern side of the Southern Alps except the St James Walkway which straddles the Divide. 


On the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway, Kaikoura Peninsula

There is a real range of destinations here with trips to the Port Hills, Banks Peninsula, Canterbury Foothills, Kaikoura, Arthurs Pass, Lewis Pass and the Hakatere area. This area is roughly the whole province of Canterbury with a couple of incursions into Westland at Lewis Pass and Arthurs Pass.


The Lewis Pass Tops are on the Divide between Canterbury and the West Coast

If I had gone out to four hours from Christchurch I could have included Southern Marlborough, Nelson Lakes NP, Lake Tekapo/Mt Cook and the West Coast in my locations. Lots and lots of tramping to be had round 'bout here...


Tramping Destinations of Canterbury...

I have started with the destinations close to town and proceeded to those more than a couple of hours away by car. We will start with the nearest and most obvious destination for tramping and walking trips in Canterbury...the Port Hills which are clearly visible from anywhere in Christchurch...


On the Port Hills:

Bridle Path: Day trip, 1-3 hours over 3 km's (Heathcote to Lyttleton)


I will start the ball rolling with an iconic and historic track...the Bridal Path from Lyttleton to the Heathcote Valley. This was the old route most settlers to Christchurch had to take to reach their new home. It heads up from Lyttleton to the Summit Road and then drops down to the Heathcote Valley in the eastern suburbs of Christchurch. 


Start of the Bridal Path near the Gondola, Heathcote Valley

Most children from Canterbury will walk over the Bridal Path at some time in their life...the first time I walked it was back in the early 1980's on a primary school trip with my Dad. I have crossed over many, many times since then and it is still one of my most beloved tracks. 


A potted history of the Bridal Path from Lyttleton to Heathcote Valley


My recommended way to walk the Bridal Path is to take the Gondola up to the top terminus and then walk down whichever side of the Path that takes your fancy. Of course you should also walk the track in its entirety as this is the experience the early settlers would have had. Catch the bus through the Lytellton Road Tunnel and walk back to Heathcote...the bus leaves from near the Gondola bottom terminus. 


Climbing up the rough Bridal Path from Heathcote Valley

The Bridal Path is rutted and rough in spots...take care!!

You might scoff at this as a tramping trip as it is only six odd kilometers over 2-3 hours but those are some damn hard kilometers. This track is STEEP and it is covered with awful slippery pebbles and slick dust which make it super treacherous. Anyone who has crossed the track should feel a sense of accomplishment as they follow in the hardly altered steps of our long departed ancestors. 


Nearing the Summit Road on the Heathcote Valley side of the Bridal Path

There is a road running along the crest of the Port Hills called the Summit Road...this was built back in the 1930's during the Great Depression. It was built using hand tools (shovels, picks and wheel barrows) as a 'make work' project to keep families from starving to death. 

My maternal Grandfather worked on it for nearly a year and pleased he was to have that work when so many others did not. It basically kept my mothers family alive during the worst of that difficult time... 


Bridal Path...view of Heathcote Valley from the top

Bridal Path...view of Lyttleton Harbour from near Summit Road

When you get to the Summit Road there is a memorial shelter to the Early Settler Women who arrived here to start a new life in what was then a far away, isolated and very primitive settlement. It is a well deserved honor as those ladies had it hard...they probably arrived with children in tow, luggage and the beginnings of a new life and had to herd it all over the hills and across the plains. 

Meanwhile the men were probably standing around acting important in their weskit's, sideburns and toppers and fouling the air by smoking their clay pipes. Were the men working hard or hardly working..you be the judge!!!

The Early Women Settlers memorial on the Summit Road

Start of the Lyttleton side of the Bridal Path, Port Hills

Dropping down to Lyttleton is just as steep although the quality of the track on this side has been improving over recent years. There are a number of nice seats on this side of the Port Hills so sit a spell and admire the view of the harbor. 

Until Evans Pass Road was built in the mid 1880's this was the only way to get between Christchurch and Lyttleton on foot. Real change came in the late 1880's when the Lyttleton Rail tunnel was built and it became possible to travel between the two locales without a trip over the hills. Later a road tunnel was also built so that the Bridal Path has now been relegated to a walking track. 

Heading down into Lyttleton from the Bridal Path

End of the Lyttleton side of the Bridal Path


The Lyttleton side of the Bridal Path ends quite a way from the port so you spend the last half an hour walking down some of the old historic streets. You want to get to the bus shelter near the road tunnel...the bus will take you back to the start of the track near the Gondola. Buses run roughly every 45 minutes through the tunnel and will drop you close to your starting point. 


Walking the streets of Lyttleton on the Bridal Path

Bus shelter in Lyttleton for the bus to Heathcote Valley

The summer holidays are the perfect time to walk the Bridal Path...take loads of water with you, a hat and sun screen as it can get hot out there. A must do for every Cantabrian at some point in their life...why not now?


Other Port Hill tracks: Rapaki Track, Summit Walkway, Harry Ell Track, Bowenvale Track, Godley Heads Track


Banks Peninsula:

Te Ara Pataka- Hilltop Tavern to Gebbies Pass: Overnight tramp, 2-3 days over 35km's (one way)

There is a stunning but mostly overlooked track on Banks Peninsula from Hilltop Tavern overlooking Akaroa through to Gebbies Pass. This is the Te Ara Pataka track a 2-3 day tramp through farmland and DOC reserves high above the outer bays of the Peninsula. 

Akaroa Harbor from near the Hilltop Tavern

While most of this track is across farmland on an unformed legal road there are some lovely areas of native forest as well. There are stunning examples of Halls Totora, Matai, Kahikatea and Hinau Trees in the many small forest reserves along the route. With the recent moves by the Rod Donald Trust this will be enhanced as new areas along the route are added to existing reserves at Mt Herbert and Mt Bradley. 


Giant Totara Tree in Montgomery Park Reserve

 Added to this are some of the best views of the bays and coastline of Canterbury and simply fantastic views from the top of Mt Herbert and Kaituna Saddle further along the track. From the track you have excellent views down into Pigeon Bay, Port Levy and Lyttleton Harbour. 


Pigeon Bay, Pt. 700 above Montgomery Park Reserve, Te Ara Pataka

Heading into Whatarangi Totora Reserve, Te Ara Pataka

View of Port Levy from the Te Ara Pataka

You have two iconic huts to stay in on this tramp...Rod Donald on the first night and Packhorse Hut on night two. Rod Donald is a recent addition to the rota of backcountry huts having been converted from an existing structure in 2017. It was named after Rod Donald a dedicated environmentalist, conservationist and MP for Banks Peninsula who tragically died far too young. 


Rod Donald Hut...first nights accommodations...

Both huts are on the DOC booking system and MUST be reserved before use...they are often booked solid for much of the summer so get in early to avoid disappointment. 

Historic Packhorse Hut...second nights accommodation on Te Ara Pataka


One of the highlights of Te Ara Pataka is the chance to go over the summit of the tallest mountain on Banks Peninsula, Mt Herbert. From the summit of this 919 meters a.s.l mountain you have unapparelled views out over Canterbury and on a clear still day you can see as far as Kaikoura to the north, Oamaru to the south. You can even sometimes see Aoraki/Mt Cook way down the spine of the Southern Alps. 

I personally believe it is one of the finest views to be had from anywhere in Canterbury. 

View of Lyttleton and Canterbury from Mt Herbert (919 asl)

From Mt Herbert you duck around the back of Mt Bradley which is the third tallest peak on Banks Peninsula and then drop down to Packhorse Hut for the night. Much of this section is through regenerating native bush and the end of the track is a stunning descent down to Packhorse through golden tussock fields. 


In the bush behind Mt Bradley, Te Ara Pataka

Packhorse has a much longer and more interesting history being built in 1910 as one of Harry Ells visionary rest spots on his planned track from Godley Head to Birdlings Flats via Mt Herbert and Akaroa. It has been continually in use since then and received a well deserved upgrade and renovation in 2019 to make it more habitable for the 21st Century. 


Packhorse Hut sits on Kaituna Saddle, Banks Peninsula

Interior of the Packhorse Hut, Banks Peninsula

From the Packhorse Hut you can either walk down to the Kaituna Valley over farmland or descend down to McQueens Forest and Gebbies Pass. There is also a rough track around the front of Mt Bradley to the Orton Bradley Estate. Kaituna Valley takes about 1.5 hours, the track to both Orton Bradley Estate and Gebbies Pass take approximately 3-4 hours. 

The choice is yours but I would suggest heading for Gebbies Pass as there are some interesting volcanic dikes on the way and the journey down through the forest can be quite pleasant on a hot summer day. It also has the best views of the head of Lytelton Harbor and over the Port Hills to South Canterbury. 


View down to McQueens Forest and Gebbies Pass from near Packhorse Hut

Why is this excellent track so overlooked? I'm not really sure...I think perhaps the more hardcore trampers do not see it as a worthy tramp given it is mostly on farmland. There are also transport difficulties as there is no public transport over Gebbies Pass but this is not insurmountable. 

 
In the shady cover of McQueens Forest, Te Ara Pataka


Probably the main reason it is so neglected is because we have so many wonderful places to visit locally that people just go there instead. How do you compete with Arthurs Pass, Lewis Pass or the Canterbury Foothills which are practically the same distance away. 

End of Te Ara Pataka at Gebbies Pass

Personally I think this is wrong...this is a awesome track which deserves to be recognized for its diversity of terrain types. The views are magnificent and I am just sorry few people get to see them. Banks Peninsula and the Port Hills are covered with top notch tracks that we should all be using.

Others tracks on Banks Peninsula: Banks Track (Private), Monument Track to Mt Herbert, Packhorse Track, Mt Herbert Walkway..see the Banks Peninsula Walks website for more detail


Canterbury Foothills:

Mt Grey: Day trip, 4-6 hours over 10 km's (Return)

There are a number of really excellent day and overnight walks on the Canterbury Foothills just to the north of Christchurch. On a good day we are able to see the distant foothills from most of the city especially if you are up on the Port Hills. The foothills are an area of low hill ranges and a number of associated river valleys with peaks up to 18oo meters a.s.l. Most of them are covered with native or exotic forest on their lower slopes and tussock and sub alpine plants on their tops. 


Lake Janet at the start of the Mt Grey Track

I personally think that Mt Grey is the most striking of the Foothills as it sits just inland of the coast near Amberly in North Canterbury. From the summit you have excellent views of all of Pegasus Bay, Banks Peninsula and the Canterbury Plains. The track starts close to Amberly at Lake Janet in Ashley Forest... a small firepond next to the Cramptons Bush Fire Road. It is approximately 5 kilometers and takes 800 meters of easy climbing to reach the summit of Mt Grey. 


Picnic area at Lake Janet, Mt Grey Track

The track starts in exotic pine forest slowly climbing up a series of switchback tracks to the Ashley Forest ranger station. The track is well maintained and once you break through the forest you have spectacular views of the forest and the rest of the Canterbury Plains. The fire watch tower is a good spot for a rest or if time is limited a decent place to turn back. 

 

Heading up the Mt Grey Track to Mt Grey

Ashley Forest from near the Rangers lookout, Mt Grey Track

Ashley Forest rangers tower, Mt Grey Track

From the ranger watch tower you climb up Mt Grey Road to the transmission towers near Pt. 929 or follow the bush track along the front flank of Mt Grey to the same point. The towers are repeater stations for TV and Radio and this high point is sometimes known as Little Mt Grey. This is another excellent turn around point...


The transmission tower on Mt Grey from the Mt Grey Track


The true summit of Mt Grey is another kilometer or 30 minutes walk to the north east of Pt. 929...you first descend the northern slope of Little Mt Grey and then climb a short distance to the sign and trig point that marks the true summit of this outlier mountain. Mt Grey isn't a peak...rather it is a long ridge top roughly the same height along its length. This is quite common in New Zealand as the mountains have been eroded over the centuries. 



View out to Mt Grey from Pt.929, Mt Grey Track 

The summit of Mt Grey (933 a.s.l) on the Canterbury Foothills

As you can see from the photos the views are staggering from Mt Grey and on a clear day stretch right out to the Oamaru Peninsula southward, Banks Peninsula and as far north as Cheviot. I usually stop for lunch just off the summit...tuck yourself into the deep tussock out of the wind and enjoy any sun in the offering...


Pt. 929 and the Mt Grey transmission tower...


The trip back to the carpark at Lake Janet is back the way you came...I normally walk up the bush track to the summit and then back down the Mt Grey Road to the fire watch tower on the return. If you wanted a longer walk you can tramp down the Mt Grey Track or Red Beech Tracks to points further into the forest. You then walk back to your car along the gravel forestry roads...


Mt Grey Road is an alternate track off Mt Grey

You can camp up on the summit of Mt Grey but be aware there is zero water there...no rivers, lakes, streams or ponds so it would be a dry camp. Carry water for your meals in this case and take a good wind proof tent as it gets bloody windy up there!!! It would certainly be a magnificent place to greet the dawn as your view out to the east is unencumbered by anything. 


The distant Port Hills and Canterbury from Mt Grey Road

I have been to the top of Mt Grey several times now and it is one of my favorite day walks...a goodly amount of exercise climbing up with great views as a compensation for that work. I really recommend it to anyone..if you are new to Canterbury this is the type of excellent tramping you have to look forward too. 

Others: Wharfedale Track, Lees Valley, Mt Oxford Circuit, Mt Richardson Track, Mt Thomas Track, Mt Alexander Track, Youngman Stream-Lilleburne Circuit, Pinchgut Hut Track...


Kaikoura and its environs:

Mt Fyffe: Day Trip/Overnight tramp, 8 hours/1-2 days over 12 km's (Return)

Kaikoura is only 1.5 hours drive north of Christchurch and boasts a number of fine tramping and walking tracks. These range from coastal walkways to multi day tramps in the Seaward Kaikoura's. One of the best day or overnight trips in the area is the trip to Fyffe Hut and or the summit of Mt Fyffe.

Start of the track to Mt Fyffe, Seaward Kaikoura Range


The Mt Fyffe Track starts on the lower slopes of Mt Fyffe at a carpark on Postman's Road just north west of the town. The track is the starting place for several tracks (Hinau Walk and the Kowhai-Hapuku Route also start here) and it is actually a 4 W/D track right to the top of the mountain. There is nothing technically difficult about it it is just very steep and long. 


The track to Mt Fyffe is a steep 4 W/D track...

While the track may not be that interesting the views are absolutely stunning of the Kaikoura Peninsula, Kaikoura Plains and along the coastline. They just get more amazing the further up the track you climb...by the time you reach the hut at 1100 meters you can see most of the way to Canterbury. 


The Kaikoura Peninsula is visible for most of the way to Mt Fyffe

Closer view of the Kaikoura Peninsula from Mt Fyffe

View of the mountains to the south of Kaikoura from Mt Fyffe

The beauty of the track is you do not need to climb to the summit for a great view...from even an hour up the track the beauty of the local area is laid out before you. I have been to some awesome places on tramping trips and I would easily rate the views from Mt Fyffe in my top five.


Kaikoura Peninsula and hinterland from near Sandy Saddle, Mt Fyffe

Jon near Mt Fyffe Hut, Seaward Kaikoura Range

Kowhai River from the Mt Fyffe Track, Seaward Kaikoura Range

I have walked up to the Fyffe Hut two times...once for an overnight stay and the other time as a day walk. It is a decent hut on a small plateau two kilometers or so from the summit and sits on the 1100 asl line. It has water tanks and a wood burner and I believe they drop off loads of wood from time to time as there is none in the local area. 

Mt Fyffe Hut, Seaward Kaikoura Range


A nice place to spend the night BUT it can be hellishly cold in Winter or when a big storm is blowing through so be prepared for all conditions. It can also be busy so if you want to stay for the night it is a good idea to take a decent tent in case the hut is full. 


Kaikoura from the Mt Fyffe Summit

If you carry on up to the summit you will have spectacular views along the Seaward Kaikoura Range, the Kaikoura Plains as well as out to sea. The 4 W/D road goes right to the top of Mt Fyffe but don't let this lead to complacency. It is a high alpine area close to the sea and the weather can be very fickle so go prepared with warm clothing and wet weather gear. An ice axe and crampons may be required if there is snow on the top...proceed with care at all times.


The track over Mt Fyffe to Kowhai Saddle...

From the track summit you can follow Kowhai Saddle Track over Mt Fyffe and down to the Hapuku Valley but this is an advanced tramping route for experienced people. There is also a side track near Mt Fyffe Hut which will take you down to the Kowhai River Valley. Spaniard Spur Track is steep but not that technically difficult and is an interesting alternate route off the mountain.  

Others...Kaikoura Coast Track (Private), Kowhai-Hupuku Track, Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway, Kowhai Bush Walk, Hinau Track


Arthurs Pass National Park:

Hawdon Hut: Overnight tramp, 1-2 days over 18km's (Return)

Arthurs Pass is approximately 140 kilometers from Christchurch or 2-2.5 hours drive along the scenic SH7 over Arthurs Pass. The National Park located there is all about massive mountains, wide braided river beds and expansive grass covered river valleys. It is a minimal impact park which means it has a limited number of huts, few bridges, little infrastructure and lots of seldom visited space.


Hawdon Shelter, Arthurs Pass NP

There are many excellent destinations but one of the nicest is the trip up the Hawdon River Valley to Hawdon Hut. It is approximately 11 kilometers or 4 hours tramping to the hut which is set in a picturesque location in the upper reaches of the valley. The first hurdle is crossing the Hawdon River near Hawdon Shelter..moderate for most of the time but impossible to cross after heavy rain. 


Contemplating a crossing of the Hawdon River, Arthurs Pass NP

This is a dry weather destination only with zero alternate ways to retreat if the weather packs in...If you cannot cross the lower Hawdon River you will not get over the other side streams...turn around and go elsewhere. A nice alternate all weather trip is up Bealey Spur to the old musterers hut. 


Surprise Stream is one of many river crossings in the Hawdon Valley


Once on the true right of the river you either make your own way up to the East Hawdon River confluence or follow the famous 4 W/D track up valley. DOC have active wildlife programs running in the valley for Kaka, Kiwi and Kakariki so quite a few DOC vehicles travel back and forth keeping the track in condition. Look for the track...it will save you more than an hours walking time...


The famous 4 W/D track up the Hawdon Valley

One of the side valleys you pass is the East Hawdon...this leads deeper into the remote north eastern side of the park. There is an excellent two person bivouac up this valley and many good camp spots. don't go up here if rain is coming as you have to spend a lot of time in the riverbed heading up valley. 

There is the possibility of climbing over the Savannah Range and descending into the Andrews River Valley at Hallelujah Flats. From there you follow Andrews Valley Track back out to the Mt White Road and back around to the Hawdon campsite. 


Crossing the East Hawdon River enroute to Hawdon Hut

Past the East Hawdon the valley closes in and is a lot more rugged...several deep river crossings are required and the track is a mix of forest, grassland and riverbed all the way to Hawdon Hut. There are lovely camping spots through here including the site of the old Hawdon Hut which burnt down in 2010. This is now a backcountry campsite in a large open clearing with the original toilets and newer firepits...an excellent spot to camp.


Upper reaches of the Hawdon River, Arthurs Pass NP

One kilometer up stream from the campsite is the new 20 bunk Hawdon Hut built in 2012. It is in a choice location with fine views of the surrounding mountains, easy access to the river and in a still, warm clearing. It is one of my favorite huts and while it can be busy on occasion I have stayed here three times as the sole occupant. 


Hawdon Hut, Arthurs Pass NP

From the hut you can continue over the Walker Pass to the super remote Otehake Valley ( once a Wilderness area...) or head west over Tarn Pass and Taruahuna Pass to Edwards Hut. If you go this way you will pass Falling Mountain...a +2000 asl mountain which disintegrated during the 1929 Arthurs Pass Earthquake (7.1 on the Richter scale...). The debris field fills the valley and extends nearly five kilometers down the Otehake West Branch.


Climbing to Walkers Pass on the way to the Otehake River


There is also a expert level route up Discovery Stream and over the Polar Range to Sudden Valley but this is only for very experienced trampers. Most people will just turn around and walk back down the Hawdon Valley and this is a pleasant experience. The views heading down valley are just as good as those heading up valley...


Heading back down the Hawdon Valley on the way home

The mid reaches of the Hawdon River are stunning...

Get back on the 4 W/D track and you will soon find yourself back down valley and contemplating that final crossing of the Hawdon River. Take note of all the excellent wild camping locations in the valley as this is a perfect place to set up camp under one of the groves of trees and spend a day or two relaxing. 


Black and Craigieburn Ranges from the Hawdon River Valley

Final crossing of the Hawdon River, Arthurs Pass NP

Arthurs Pass National Park is really my home park...I have spend more time tramping around the park than in any other area of the country. There is a lot more to the National Park than just the day walks in and around the village (excellent though they are). If you are looking for a multiday tramping experience in Arthurs Pass NP then a trip up the Hawdon Valley will be right up your alley. 


Others...Edwards-Hawdon Route, Casey-Binser Circuit, Arthurs Pass Walking Track, Otira Valley Track, Bealey Valley Track, Waterfall Track, Three Passes Route, Sudden Valley Route, etc......


Nina/Doubtful Valley Conservation Area:

Nina Hut: Overnight tramp, 1-2 days over 18 km's (Return)

The area around Lewis Pass is really beautiful with thick old growth beech forest, tussock lands and high alpine tops country. There are a multitude of excellent tramps in the area but perhaps one of the best is the trip up to the Nina Hut. This is in the Nina/Doubtful Valley Conservation Area just to the east of Lewis Pass itself. 


The iconic NZDA Hut on SH7, Lewis Pass Scenic Reserve

Trips up the Nina Valley start at the carpark next to the NZDA Hut located on SH7 about 10 kilometers past the Boyle Settlement. This is a relatively safe place to park your car and the track and first swing bridge to the Nina Valley is about 50 meters up SH7 in the direction of Lewis Pass. It is approximately 11 km's or four hours walk to the hut.


Entrance to the Nina Valley from SH7, Lewis Pass Scenic Reserve

The first part of the track is across river terraces covered in swamp, peaty moss and stunted silver beech. This part of the track tends to be the muddiest but it is generally flat easy walking. This changes to more open Red Beech forest as you close on the Nina River where the track sidles along the sides of more rugged river terraces. 

On the swampy river flats at the start of the Nina Valley Track

Nearing the Nina River swing bridge, Lewis Pass Scenic Reserve


After an hour or so you will find yourself at the bridge over Nina Gorge where you cross to the true right of the Nina River for the rest of the trip to Nina Hut. There is a side track at the bridge for the track to Lucretia Bivouac up one of the side valleys. This is a great trip in itself with a recently restored two bunk bivouac to stay in and possible trips to the Apprentice, Mt Technical and the Lewis Pass Tops. 


Bridge over the Nina River...at the Nina River Gorge

Past the bridge the track is a mixture of dense forest and grasslands before you start the last climb up to the hut site over the last kilometer of the track. There are a number of creeks to cross on this side of the valley although none will present problems except in the worst of weather. 

In the forest past the Nina Bridge, Lewis Pass Scenic Reserve

Goblin forest near Pt. 761 on the Nina Valley Track

Nina Hut is located on the crest of a long ridge with goblin forest all around the hut. It has magnificent views of the mountains which surround the valley including the Sylvia Range, Mt Duchess, Mt Boscowan and the Apprentice. The hut is relatively new (2010) and there is an expansive clearing around the hut for people to camp in. Kiwi and Kaka have been released into the Nina Valley and you will often hear them at dusk and dawn in the local forest....

There are many excellent tramping routes leading from here including trips to the Upper Nina Valley, over Mt Boscowan to Lake Christabel, the route to Doubtful Valley via Devilskin Saddle and the route back to SH7 along the Sylvia Tops. 


Nina Hut, Nina-Doubtful Valley Conservation Area

Travel back will usually be a return down the same track you used the previous day made slightly easier by the gradual descent along the track. The return trip always gives me the time to look at the scenic grandeur around me...the thick forest, beautiful rivers and the mountains all around. 


One of the side streams along the Nina Valley Track

The Nina River above the bridge, Lewis Pass Scenic Reserve

A trip to Nina Hut should be on every persons list of tramping destinations...it is excellent as a overnight trip or a long day walk and you will not be sorry to have visited the area. Great also as a stepping off point for trips further into the valley or over the surrounding valleys to other great destinations. 

Others around Lewis Pass: Lucretia Bivouac Route, Upper Nina Valley Track, Sylvia Tops Route, Lake Daniells Track, Lewis Tops Route,  Zampa Tops Route, Devilskin Saddle Route, Lake Man Bivouac Route... 

Hanmer Forest Park:

Mt Isobel Track: Day Tramp, 4-6 hours return, 16 km's (Return)

There are many fine walks in Hanmer Springs Forest Park but arguably the best is the ascent of Mt Isobel. Mt Isobel dominates the skyline to the north of Hanmer Springs Village...it is the long ridgeline that runs from Jacks Pass to Jollies Pass with the high point mid way at 1319 meters. 


The Mt Isobel ridge from Hanmer Heritage Forest

Everyone who visits Hanmer on a regular basis should visit the summit...it is spectacular with fantastic views of the whole Hanmer Basin and out into the Clarence Valley and Molesworth Station. There are some technical spots along the various tracks to the summit but none of them should be insurmountable by anyone with some basic tramping experience. 


The forest route half way up Clarence Valley Road, Mt Isobel Track


There are three ways to the summit: from Jollies Pass, Jacks Pass and from just behind Conical Hill on the Clarence Valley Road. Regardless of the path you choose be prepared for a hard climb...it is 2-4 hours to the top depending on the approach track. 

Climbing Mt Isobel on the forest route...

The view of Conical Hill, Hanmer Forest and Hanmer Plains are superb from even half way to the summit of Mt Isobel so you do not need to climb right to the top if time is short. I would highly recommend that you do the full track at least once just for the experience. From the top of Mt Isobel you can see over the intervening hill ranges and out to the Canterbury Plains in the distance. 


View of Conical Hill from halfway to the summit of Mt Isobel...

If you are feeling particularly energetic it is possible to do a full traverse of the mountain in one day...start from the Jollies Pass side go over the top and then down either of the routes on the Jacks Pass side. 

It would be a good 20 odd kilometers and 6-8 hours walking to do the full circuit from Hanmer Village. This is actually the course of a mountain running event which happens every April....people cover this same distance in 2-3 hours while running!!! 


Panorama of the eastern end of Hanmer Basin

Approaching the top of the ridge on the Mt Isobel Forest Route


Do not venture past the bushline if it is very windy, raining or snowing as you can easily come to grief...Summer and Autumn are the best times of the year to visit. A visit in Winter snow will probably require an ice axe and crampons...they may not be needed but you need to carry them just in case. 



Topping the Mt Isobel ridge to the west of the summit


The Inland Kaikoura Range is visible on the eastern horizon...

View east to Mt Isobel summit from Mt Isobel Track

From the ridgeline it is a relatively easy 30 minute walk to the summit of Mt Isobel...the track here is marked with snow poles as during winter there can be deep snow along the ridge. To head back to Hanmer you turn left and walk along the ridge to near Pt. 1195 where you start the descent down to the Clarence Valley Road. 


Hanmer Basin from the ridge line track, Mt Isobel

View west along the Mt Isobel ridge...

There are some excellent views from here down into the Clarence Valley which are especially beautiful if there has been recent snow as seen in the photo below. This is the way to the St James Recreation Area and the Hydro Road can take you to St Arnauld in Nelson Lakes NP. 


Heading west down Jacks Pass Track, Mt Isobel

The Clarence Valley Road from Jacks Pass Track, Mt Isobel

You will eventually be deposited onto the Clarence Valley Road where you can either arrange to be collected or start the one hour walk back down the road and into Hanmer Village. There is a large carpark on the top of Jacks Pass where cars can be left during the day. I would not leave a car here overnight as it is often a target for vandalism and car thefts...there are lots of glass shards on the ground to attest to this... 


Start of Jacks Pass Track on Clarence Valley Road

Road walk back to Hanmer on Clarence Valley Road

Note that this road is closed over much of winter and during periods of extreme fire danger. Care is needed on this road as it is steep, winding gravel with many other users. Watch for icy patches and other pedestrians and MTB riders...

Jacks Pass is also the fastest way to the summit of Mt Isobel...park your car here and walk up to the summit along the Jacks Pass Track. From the road it is approximately 1.5-2 hours to the summit. 

Others Hanmer tracks : Forest Amble/Forest Walk/Forest Journey, Dogstream Track, Conical Hill Track, Waterfall Track, St James Cycleway...


St James Conservation Area:

St James Walkway: Multiday tramp, 3-5 days over 66 km's (Return)

The St James Walkway stretches from the carpark at Lewis Pass through a number of river valleys and around to Boyle Settlement a distance of 66 kilometers. It is charactorised by dense forest, wide grass covered valleys and a surround of high mountain ranges. The track is usually walked over 4-5 days although some people manage to cram it into 3 days covering large distances each day. 


Lewis Pass Tarn on a bright sunny day

It is just one of many excellent multiday tramps in Canterbury many of which are only a couple of hours drive from town. It has largely missed the hordes of tourists and apart from the section on the Te Araroa Trail most of the people you will met will be Kiwis. It kind of reminds me of Nelson Lakes NP 20 years ago...


Ada Pass Hut is one of five on the St James Walkway

The best way to walk the St James is clockwise...from Lewis Pass south to the Boyle Settlement. The start of the track is in the Maruia River Valley first winding through forest to Cannibal Gorge Hut and then into more open forest to Ada Hut. Subsequent days will take you over Ada Pass into the Ada River Valley before sweeping around into the Christopher Valley, Henry Valley over Anne Pass and finally into the Boyle River Valley. 

Heading down to Cannibal Gorge Bridge, St James Walkway

There is a series of older but still very serviceable huts to stay in including Cannibal Gorge, Ada Pass, Christopher, Anne, Boyle Flat and Magdalen Huts. There are also smaller huts such as Christopher Cullers, Anne Cullers and Rokeby bivouacs. 

If you are a hut bagger walking the St James nets you a possible nine huts. Massive possibilities for camping in the long golden grass of those river valleys...just don't stop on the multiple avalanche chutes between Lewis Pass and Cannibal Gorge Hut. 


Approaching Cannibal Gorge Hut, St James Walkway

The St James Walkway can also be a conduit to other excellent tramping possibilities...from the track you can access the valleys of Nelson Lakes NP (D'Urville, Matakitaki and Sabine) via Waiau, Thompson & Three Tarns Pass. There are opportunities for tops travel along the Zampa Tops Route high above the Maruia and Ada Rivers. The section from the Henry River to Boyle is part of the Te Araroa Trail and you can head to Hanmer on the St James Cycleway. 


Three Tarn Pass area from the Ada Pass Hut veranda

There are some massive mountains up here...they seem larger because they rise right next to the track in the Spencer Range. Some of the largest are Gloriana Peak (2218), Faerie Queene (2236),  Duessa Peak (2238) and Mt Una (2300). They totally dominate both the Ada and Christopher Valleys and hammer home just how insignificant man really is... 


Mt Una (2300) dominates the Upper Christopher Valley

Gloriana Peak high above the Ada River Valley

The massive bulk of the Faerie Queene from near Christopher Cullers Hut


If you are especially lucky you might even get to see the wild horses of the St James Conservation Area...most often found in the expansive grass valleys of the Christopher and Waiau Rivers. I saw a part of the herd on my last St James adventure back in 2017. They are wary of humans but will occasional approach tramping parties passing through their territory. Do not try to approach them though...they are fully wild and may attack you.


Some of the wild St James horses near Christopher Hut

Following the Waiau River around Mt Federation...to the Henry Valley


While the first part of the St James Walkway is about forest the second half of the track is through much drier grassland on the eastern side of the Southern Alps. While the walking is easier the distances make up for it...the walk between Ada Pass Hut and Anne Hut is 23 kilometers while the distance between Anne Hut and Boyle Flat Hut is roughly 18 kilometers. You need to make sure you have plenty of water, a fantastic sun hat and sunblock. 


Turning into the Henry River Valley, St James Walkway

Anne Saddle (1136) is directly ahead, St James Walkway

In the Upper Boyle Valley...St James Walkway

The last day is back into the forest...you have near total forest cover all the way from Boyle Flat Hut to the Boyle Settlement. It is a real respite after all the sun you might have faced over the previous two days. This section can be muddy after wet weather so be prepared for a slog if it rains while you are on the track. 

Stile on the St James Walkway near the Upper swing bridge...

The last section is along the forest edge as you make your way down the Boyle River Flats to the road end. This is easy forest tramping so your last day of 10 km's is completed in 3-4 hours. Once past the lower Boyle River swing bridge there is a short 2 kilometer road or forest walk to the car parks and toilet block opposite the Boyle Outdoor Education Center (BOEC).


In the forest near St Andrews, St James Walkway

The St James is an excellent introduction to the joys of multiday tramping over some beautiful and varied terrain and is rightly one of the iconic South Island Tramps. The tramp is so good is was considered for Great Walk status back in 2018 and only narrowly missed out to the Humpridge Track in Southland as New Zealand's 11th Great Walk.


St James Walkway: the lower Boyle swingbridge...

I fully expect it to gain this status the next time they consider it so get out and tramp it before it becomes a tourist mecca which will change its character for all time. Or wait for the upgraded huts and track that Great Walk status provides. 

 

Tramps in Lewis Pass Scenic Reserve/St James Conservation Area: St James Cycleway, Magdalen Hut Track, Mt Faust Route, Waiau Pass Track, Zampa Tops Route....

Other multiday tramps in Canterbury: Harpers Pass Track (Lake Sumner Forest Park), Three Passes Route (Arthurs Pass-West Coast), Casey-Andrews-Binser-Circuit (Arthurs Pass), Goat Pass Track (Arthurs Pass), Cass Lagoon Saddle Route (Craigieburn Forest Park)


Hakatere Conservation Area:

Mt Somers: Woolshed Creek Hut; Overnight, 4-6 hours over 14 km's (Return)

I am a recent convert to the pleasures of the Hakatere Scenic Reserve having only visited the area for the first time in 2018. It is a newer addition to the DOC roster...most of the land was reclaimed as part of pastoral tenure review which saw some land given freehold title to the land owners while the rest came back to the Crown. 

Southern Alps from the Hakatere-Potts Road near Lake Emma....

Mt Somers is part of the wider Hakatere Conservation Park which is mainly mountains, alpine grasslands or sub alpine beech forest remnants and tussockland.  Mt Somers was an area of historic mineral mining, coal mining and sheep farming activity. There is a superb 2-3 day circuit track around Mt Somers itself with two decent huts at Woolshed Creek and the Pinnacles. It takes about 3-4 hours to get to Woolshed Hut on the first day, 2.5-3 hours on the second day to Pinnacles Hut.


Start of the Miners Track to Woolshed Creek

From Pinnacles Hut you can walk out to the carpark at Sharplin Falls or you can continue on the longer route across the southern face of Mt Somers back to the Woolshed Creek carpark. It is 4 hours from Pinnacles to the carpark and an additional five hours walk back to Woolshed Creek over the South Face Track. 

Information panel on Sidewinder Track about mining at Mt Somers

Start of the climb up the Incline to Blackburn Mine, Mt Somers

The whole route is technically easy but there is some long distances to cover as well as hill climbing, river crossings and rough terrain. The Mt Somers Walkway Society have been steadily improving the tracks for the last 10 years and they are now in a fine state. It is mostly single track but there are also areas of rock scrambling, 4 W/D track, boardwalk and stairs. 


Climbing over Pt. 942 enroute to Woolshed Creek, Mt Somers

There is a real mix of terrain on this 26 kilometer long circuit with native forest, tussock lands, rocky mountain tops, gorges, rivers and farmland. There are some stunning views of the greater Hakatere area as well as the not too distant Rangitata River and snow covered Southern Alps a little over 40 kilometers away. 


View of Hakatere Valley from Pt. 942, Mt Somers

Mt Somers: view down to Woolshed Creek from near Pt. 942

Woolshed Creek is in a lovely river valley with a new and spacious hut that is full most weekends. It is a great first tramp and excellent for families as there is plenty to do in the local area with rivers, natural  pools, grass flats and tussock to play in. Both summer and winter trips are possible but you need some top notch gear if visiting in winter as there can be deep snow and extreme sub zero temperatures here so close to the head of the Rangitata River. 


Woolshed Creek Hut, Mt Somers, Hakatere Conservation Area

In the bed of Woolshed Creek, Mt Somers

There is an easy route back to Woolshed Creek carpark on your last day...a 4 W/D track that runs 2/3 of the way and it is very easy walking. The first section climbing out of Woolshed Creek is steep but after that it is almost all downhill to the end of the track.



Climbing up from Woolshed Creek on the 4 W/D track, Mt Somers

Pt. 855 on the Woolshed Creek 4 W/D track, Mt Somers

If using the 4 W/D track you need to be prepared for all conditions as it is along the crest of a ridge so it is fully exposed to any weather. It can be blazing hot in summer and freezing in the winter but it is well marked with snow poles to show the way. Most people will use the side track down to the old Blackburn Mine site and then follow the main track from there to the carpark. 

Mt Somers: view down to the Blackburn Mine site...

On Miners Track heading for the Woolshed Creek Carpark, Mt Somers


Alternately you can follow the Rhyolite Track from Woolshed Creek along the south western flank of Mt Somers before dropping down to the Woolshed Creek carpark. If you go this way you will pass the infamous Bus Stop Overhang which is literally a bus stop sign on a rock face next to the track. This is a more rugged track but takes roughly the same amount of time to complete.


The Bus Stop Overhang on the Rhyolite Track, Mt Somers...

The rugged south west flank of Mt Somers, Hakatere Conservation Area

While the Mt Somers Walkway is the main attraction in the Hakatere area there are a multitude of excellent tramps in the immediate area. Trips to the headwaters of the Godley and Rangitata Rivers, LOTR film locations, sections of the Te Araroa Trail and walks near Lake Clearwater/Lake Heron mean you are spoiled for choice in this locale. I thoroughly encourage Cantabrians to put a visit to the Hakatere on your 'must do' list. 


Other options in the Hakatere Conservation Area: Mt Somers Circuit, Mt Somers Summit Track, Pinnacles Hut Track, Mt Sunday Track, Lake Emma Circuit, Mt Barossa Route, Mt Guy Route, Lake Clearwater Circuit, Te Araroa trail sections


Me surveying Lake Daniell in December 2020



So there you have it a short list of some exciting, rewarding and beloved local tramps. There is information about all of these tracks on this site as well as many trip reports, photographs and reviews online. A good source of information is the guidebook South Island Weekend Tramps by Nick Groves which has information about all of these trips. This is one of my most treasured tramping books and if you can find a copy buy it as it is full of iconic tramping destinations. 


South Island Weekend Tramps by Nick Groves


I believe there is no denying that Canterbury is a trampers paradise...lets get out there and enjoy it...

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