Showing posts with label Te Araroa Trail. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Te Araroa Trail. Show all posts

Sunday, 3 May 2020

When should I walk the Te Araroa Trail...

How weather/terrain affects your Te Araroa experience


If you have been following my blog then you probably know I am very slowly section trekking the Te Araroa Trail, our own domestic 3200km long distance trail from Cape Reinga to Bluff. In fact I have a separate blog called Visions of a long white cloud: Section hiking the Te Araroa Trail just about that journey. 

Heading up the Traver's Valley along Lake Rotoiti, Nelson Lakes National Park

There is a trekking or 'campaign' season in New Zealand for those attempting the Te Araroa Trail. The time you start/finish is mostly going to be set by the weather, terrain, alpine snow conditions and how it affects both the North Island and the South Island. It will also dictate wither you travel SOBO or NOBO or southwards or to the north.

A quick look at New Zealand Topography

 New Zealand is made of of a series of small and larger islands resting in the temperate zone between the Pacific Ocean and the Southern or Antarctic Sea. We are completely surrounded by ocean so obviously this is going to play the most important role in setting our weather patterns. Most of our weather is generated in the Southern Ocean or Tasman Sea which lie to the south and west of us.

Map of New Zealand showing terrain....

The two main islands you cover while on the TA are the imaginably named North Island/ Te Ika a Maui and the South Island/Te Wai Pounanu. BTW...I much prefer the Maori names....The North Island is approximately 1500 km's long and from 100-700 km's wide. It is mostly flat with some significant mountains in the central plateau, along the Eastern Coast and south near Wellington our capital. 

A snow capped central North Island volcanic plateau...

The South Island is approximately 1700 long but is a more uniform width, from 200-300 kilometers. The center of the South Island is bisected by a significant mountain range the Southern Alps which range up to 3400 meters asl. These form a barrier to weather from the west meaning the West Coast is wind, cold & wet for most of the year while the east coast has drier and more moderate weather. 

The rugged mountains of the central South Island...Arthur's Pass NP

Weather in New Zealand is mild for most of the year but we can also receive significant snow, rain and wind from time to time which makes our weather unpredictable and therefore dangerous. Rain events can flood rivers making them impassable and cold conditions combined with wind can make hypothermia a significant threat. 

 

A flooded Otira River at the Taramakau confluence...no crossing today!!!

  You need to be prepared for ANY weather conditions at all times...

What is the ideal time to walk the TA


What is the best time to walk Te Araroa....well, it really depends on your skill level, equipment and schedule. A lot of the Trail can be walked right through the year and in fact people have walked the TA in winter but they are exceptions.

On the TA in Nelson Lakes National Park in October 2019...

Probably 95% of TA walkers do so between October and April which is during our spring/summer/autumn period. This is when the weather and snow conditions allow passage through the mountainous South Island. Outside of these times you will need a completely different skill set to walk the TA and your safety cannot be guaranteed.

...blue skies and sunny weather through the St James Conservation area in February...

During October-December the weather in New Zealand is generally wet but mild in the North Island. In the Southern Alps you can still expect cold, wet and snowy weather and most of the high altitude passes will be closed by deep snow and the threat of avalanches.

A late snow dump near the Rangitata River in October 2018.....

December to early April is summer so the weather will gradually get warmer and clearer, the best and most stable weather will be from February to late March.

Going southwards or SOBO


SOBO means travelling in a south bound direction and is a term borrowed from the North American long trail community. On the Te Araroa trekkers travel from the top of the North Island to the bottom of the South Island. If you travel SOBO you start in the north and head south, if you go NOBO you start in the south and travel north.

Tramping in one of the Northland Kauri Forests.....

TA trekkers going SOBO can start their trek in early October as they can traverse the North Island during spring and the start of summer. Spring in the North Island is more mild than down south but it can still be cold and very wet especially in the top half of the north island.

Cape Reinga Lighthouse...northern terminus of the Te Araroa Trail

 It normally takes around three months to walk each island so by the time they reach the top of the South Island in January the weather is better allowing progress over the high alpine passes.By the time a SOBO reaches Bluff summer (December-February) will be coming to an end and the weather will start to change. 

Stirling Point...southern terminus of the Te Araroa Trail...
While good weather often continues into autumn (March-May) it cannot be guaranteed so a SOBO traveler will want to be finished their trek by late April-early May.


Going northwards or NOBO


NOBO trekkers will typically start their walk in January or February during the start of summer. If they start any earlier than this they can face significant problems with ice and snow in the higher passes. The main ones to contend with are in the Richmond Ranges, Travers and Waiau Pass in Nelson Lakes NP and several higher areas between Lake Coleridge and Queenstown.

Waiau Pass...best tackled in dry, warm conditions....


In the North Island there are high alpine areas around the Tararua Range and the Central Plateau i.e. the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. Most other areas of the North Island are far less rugged and at lower elevation so snow, ice and bad weather are less of a concern. 

Nichols Hut in the rugged Tararua Range, North Island New Zealand

By starting in January or February TA Trekkers will have finished the South Island and should be walking through the Tararua Range in late March-early April. This is still fine as the weather is generally good but any later than this can expose you to dangerous conditions in this area.

 Depending on weather the Tongariro Crossing is still passable up to the end of May...past this point alpine skills and equipment are sometimes necessary. Do not try to trek the Tongariro Alpine Crossing in bad weather..it is very dangerous and there have been fatalities on this track. Give it the respect it is due...


A winter crossing of Mt Tongariro is no trifle.....it can be dangerous!!!

North of the Central Plateau you are travelling through lowland forest so the weather is not as important a factor. It will be colder but manageable...

So...when should I walk the Te Araroa Trail...


It is easy really...if going SOBO you can start from the beginning of October...if going NOBO you can start from December onward. Of course you can walk the trail outside of these times but you will need a lot more skill, gear and alpine experience to safely cross the higher mountain areas.  


On the Rakuira Track in January 2020....

If you intend to add the Rakuira Track to your TA trek then the best time to visit is from December through April when the weather is most settled. That said the track is in coastal lowland forest the whole way so it can be walked at anytime of the year. 

Booking Great Walk huts/campsites


A number of the TA sections are on Great Walk tracks...these are the premium tourist orientated tracks of which we have 11 in New Zealand. As they are Great Walks the huts and campsites must be booked before hand. 

Bookings are required at Maori Beach Campsite, Rakuira Track, Rakuira

We are talking specifically of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, Whanganui River Journey and the Rakuira Track. Please note some of the other huts are slowly going on the DOC hut booking system especially in the North Island....check to see if a booking is required! 

John Coull Hut on the Whanganui River is a Great Walk hut...booking required!!!

Bookings for these huts and campsites usually open in early June although given Covid 19 it is uncertain if this will stand for the next couple of years. Check the Department of Conservation (DOC) website for details or have a look at my blog post about booking a Great Walk hut


The campsite at Kahikatea Flats, Pelorous Bridge also requires prior booking...

Any bookable hut will have a DOC Ranger who can refuse entry to you if you have no booking OR make you pay a 100% penalty fee...


Tuesday, 20 March 2018

Tramping food resupply point: St Arnaud General Store: Nelson Lakes NP


Resupplying in St Arnaud, Nelson Lakes NP, South Island.....

One of the places you will need to resupply fuel and tramping food while on the Te Araroa Trail is at the beginning/end of the Richmond Ranges and the start/finish of Nelson Lakes National Park.

This is at the settlement of St Arnaud on SH 63 close to Lake Rotoiti.

Entering St Arnaud from the Blenheim end of SH63, general store on the right


St Arnaud is located between the Richmond's and Nelson Lakes National Park. It is roughly 7-10 days in both directions to the next resupply point. If you decide to forgo a drop box, then your only resupply option here is the St Arnaud General Store. 


St Arnaud near Nelson Lakes National Park

The St Arnauld General Store

I was up in St Arnaud recently tramping the Travers-Sabine Circuit. While there I stopped off at the St Arnaud General Store to buy a sandwich and drink, and thought it might be interesting to discuss it as a possible TA resupply point.

St Arnaud is a small settlement on SH 63 half way between Murchison and Blenheim. There are less than 50 permanent residents but it is often busy as it is the gateway to Nelson Lakes National Park. 


The St Arnaud General Store, cafe and petrol station

There is only one store in St Arnaud, the General Store on the main highway through the settlement. Calling this a store is a misnomer as it is basically a small grocery selection attached to the local NPD petrol station.  

The St Arnauld General Store

A place to resupply tramping food...

 The grocery selection is limited but you can certainly buy enough supplies here to get you through to either Havelock (drop box at Pelorous Bridge...), Hanmer (off the trail) or Arthur's Pass (with a drop box at the Boyle Outdoor Education Centre...). 

I heard that the price were expensive, but a quick peruse of the shelves showed that they were only marginally more expensive than in a larger town. 


St Arnaud General Store: chiller and bread selection

The cafe attached to the store has a decent selection of cakes, slices, pies and sandwiches/rolls which can provide you with treats and lunches for the first day at least. They also do coffee and light meals if that is something you are interested in. 


St Arnaud General Store: the inside of the store

The store had methylated spirits (denatured alcohol) and a limited selection of screw type gas canisters for sale. There were very few of them so it might be best to contact them before you arrive to see if they have any available. 

St Arnaud General Store: toiletries and hardware

All the usual suspects are present: bread, rice, noodles, pasta meals, mashed potatoes, soup, canned tuna, cereals, Nuttela, peanut butter, dried fruit, crackers, milk and milk powder, sugar, tea/coffee etc. etc. They have a limited supply of pre-packaged meats in a chiller including ham, bacon and salami.

I didn't spot any freeze dried meals, tortillas/wraps or anything similar in the shop.

St Arnaud General Store: general food groceries

The store also sells alcohol: they have wine, beer, RTD's and a selection of spirits for you to choose from. As always you need to be 18 years old to buy alcohol in New Zealand. 

The St Arnaud General Store sells alcohol....

I love that they have my favourite beer Kronenbourg (Vitamin K) in stock..must be all the tourists from France/Germany who drive the demand...


RTD and beer selection at the St Arnaud General Store and...Kronenbourg!!!!

There is a small selection of fresh fruit and vegetables, enough to restock for the next section of the trail. I saw apples, oranges, bananas, onions, corn cobs, potatoes, garlic, capsicum, carrots, parsnips and tomatoes. 

Fruit and vegetable chiller at the St Arnaud General Store

So...not a supermarket but at least a possible resupply option as you pas through.

Incidentally, if you are catching the Nelson Lakes Shuttle to the Mt Robert car park (if doing the side trip to Angelus Hut) the shuttle collects you from the kiosk in front of the General Store. That's why I was visiting the store in the first place.

 Bookings are essential and best made several days before your day of travel, it only cost me $30 as there is a regular scheduled trip to that destination each day during the summer months. 

Tuesday, 13 February 2018

Tramping Equipment: Osprey Atmos 50 AG pack

More new tramping gear for 2018...


....more weight lightening going on here. I brought a new multi-day pack for my short trips of 1-3 nights. I needed something lighter than my current 75l Vaude Ascent pack but with more capacity than my 50l Vaude Brenta pack. 

My Vaude Brenta 50 on the Nina Hut Track in 2017

 I would love to buy an ultra-lite pack from one of the US based manufacturers (like Z-Packs) but those run to $600-$800 NZD and I just cant afford that. After much consideration I went with the Osprey brand who have a solid niche following in the thru hiking community.


Z-Packs Arc Haul: 62L, 700gms but $299 USD ($420 NZD + postage)


Osprey Atmos 50 AG pack

Osprey have built a good reputation with hikers over the years. While their gear is not ultra-lite they have taken notice of that movement and have begun to gradually lighten all of their packs.

I went with the Osprey Atmos 50 AG, specifications for the pack are:

Weight:1.4-1.6? kg (I have seen three different weights quoted)
Capacity: 53+ litres (I think it is closer to 55-58 myself) 
Harness: Size specific (S/M/L)
Material:210D Nylon, poly coating inside
Cost: $297 NZ dollars in the Bivouac summer sale


Osprey Atmos 50 AG: left hand front view

I heard good things about the harness system on Osprey packs and they were right.  The harness is light, breathable but sturdy. The hip belt is excellent, it is firm around the waist and holds the pack very steady.  The mesh back section dissipates heat more effectively than the more solid/rigid type. 

The backpack looks unusual but the bottom section is actually the generously sized pockets (one on each side). It is shaped almost like a climbers pack (curved), this is a feature of most Osprey packs.



Osprey Atmos 50 AG: view from the side

Osprey packs tend to use size specific harnesses, this bag has a degree of adjustment range but is tailored for people with a long to over long frame like myself. There are also small and medium sized packs in the range. 

Osprey Atmos 50 AG: detail of the harness system

The pack has an orange pack cover, I will probably discard this as I use a pack liner and the pack has a polyurethane coating on the inside.  Your average pack cover can weigh up to 300 gms so this is not an insignificant amount of weight to lose.

Osprey Atmos 50 AG: the integrated pack cover

The Atmos is only available in two colours the absinthe green and a dark grey colour (graphite).  I went with the green as I think it will stand out a bit better than the grey in your typical beech forest.


Osprey Atmos 50 AG: the alternate color- graphite

If required you can remove the top lid compartment and close the bag using a handy integrated fold away flap. This allows you to use the lid as a day pack or to lighten the main bag even further. There is a pouch and a strap for hanging a hydration bladder, the port for the hydration tube is centrally located.


Osprey Atmos 50 AG: view inside the pack

The Atmos 50 AG in use:


I took the pack up to Carrington Hut at the head of the Waimakiriri river over the weekend and it performed very well. The weight, fit and comfort of the pack are awesome, and I managed to get all my gear into the bag with room to spare.

The Atmos 50 inside Anti Crow Hut, February 2018

The new Osprey on the Carrington Hut veranda, February 2018


If I use it for a multi-day tramp my tent will need to ride on the outside but I see no reason why this bag couldn't easily carry 3-7 days worth of gear.


Me wearing the Atmos while crossing Turkey Flat, Waimakiriri River Valley
 
My Vaude Breta 50 is now being used by my daughter Georgia as we have started going on some tramping trips together. While not perfect for her, it will suffice until I can afford to buy her a pack specially tailored to her size and frame.

Georgia checking out a side stream while wearing my Vaude Brenta pack

I used the Atmos on the Milford Track in 2018, it is just the right size for a 3-4 day Great Walk because you dont need to carry a tent or sleeping pad internally.

The Atmos 50 on the Milford Track, December 2018

I will add some more photos as I use the Atmos over the next couple of years.


Sunday, 14 May 2017

Magdalen Hut: 5-7 May 2017

Return to Magdalen Hut, 2017 style

I was once again looking for a tramping location, my first thought was back to Nelson Lakes NP, but a bit of an iffy weather forecast did not bode well. A peruse of this blog showed that I haven't been into Magdalen Hut since 2013. I love this hut, it is relatively new (2008) and is a very nice 6 bunk hut about 3.5 hours along the Boyle River section of the St James Walkway.

So that was the destination I chose to visit, this marks my fourth visit to this hut.

I did something unusual for me, I stayed in the hut for 2 consecutive nights. I've never deliberately done this before, I have been hut bound by bad weather a couple of times though.  


Sunrise from just west of Waipara,SH1

Day One: Boyle Outdoor Education Centre to Magdalen Hut

Because it is such a short trip into the hut I left a bit later than normal: 7 am as opposed to 4 am. It was a beautiful sunny day, the same weather I experienced for the next couple of days.

On SH 7 just past Hanmer Springs
Map of the Boyle end of the St James Walkway


I left my car parked at the Boyle Outdoor Education Centre (BOEC), they offer a variety of services to trampers including secure parking, accommodation and a track shuttle service (in your own vehicle). Parking here is a much safer options than at the track end.  There has been a 200% increase in car break-ins up here since the Kaikoura earthquakes re routed all the Christchurch - Picton traffic over Lewis Pass. 

The Silver Surfer parked at Boyle Education Centre

Boyle Outdoor Education Centre buildings
First part of the trip is up the St Andrews access road, about 2 km's up the road there is an obvious junction down to the St James Walkway. I always use this route as the official start of the St James has a lot of irritating up and down.


The St Andrews access road
Be aware that DOC land ends at this track junction- do not go further up this access road as it is private property.

Entrance to St James Walkway from the St Andrews access road

Frosty grass, St James Walkway
The St James Walkway is easy walking for the most part, it is occasionally muddy but generally it is easy and safe in all weathers. From the access road it is about a kilometre to the first swing bridge over the Boyle River.

Moving through Manuka/Kanuka regrowth, St James Walkway


Descending down to the first Boyle River swing-bridge

First swing bridge over the Boyle, St James Walkway
The Boyle is a well known trout fishery, in season you will often see anglers trolling the pools of the river, especially around the swing bridge. Once over the bridge you are on the true right of the river for the next two hours.

Boyle River gorge from the St James Walkway


NZ Wren on the St James Walkway

Jon en-route to Magdalen Hut

This could use some board walk...St James Walkway
I see that there is now a horse trek concession up this part of the St James, through to Anne Hut and then out via St James Recreation land. There is a bit of horse manure to avoid but so far it hasn't impacted the track to any great extent.


Horse Trek route sign, St James Walkway
The walkway is a succession of forest, grass plain and short rocky sidle sections always just within the forest line. There are a number of side streams to cross on the way, but at this time of the year they were either totally dry or almost dry.


Boyle River from the St James Walkway

View east towards St Andrews Station

View west towards SH 7 through Lewis Pass

Crossing unnamed stream, St James Walkway

Crossing a patch of forest, St James Walkway

St Andrews Station Flats, St James Walkway

View East towards St Andrews Station, St James Walkway
Eventually you reach the terraced ridge at the end of the valley, the walkway goes up and over this ridge but it is very gentle travel as the track is nicely benched along here. The top of the ridge is a different story. It is muddy - this is a section that is crying out for a set of board walks to protect the swamp that occupies the terrace.


Climbing over one of the ridges along the St James Walkway

High point for this tramp about 860 metres a.s.l, St James Walkway
Below is an example of the mud you encounter- its not to bad at this time of year but in the Spring it can be knee deep in some places. A set of board walks would stop the track getting any bigger, in places it is 20 meters wide as people try to avoid the mud. The whole top of this terrace is a very poorly draining swamp.


The ubiquitous mud- St James Walkway

Muritana Stream, Magdalen Hut is down there...


Heading back down to the mid Boyle, St James Walkway

Approaching the Mid Boyle swing bridge
You reach the second Boyle River swing bridge after 3-3.5 hours, from here it is right turn, then down river to Magdalen Hut about 20-30 minutes away.


Mid Boyle Swing bridge from true right
Jon at the Mid Boyle Swing bridge

Mid Boyle Swing bridge

Start of the Magdalen Hut Track

On the Magdalen Hut Track
Below is the ford the horse trekking company uses, they don't go over the ridge, rather they follow the course of the Boyle River. Once past this point they follow the old benched track leading to Boyle Flat Hut and Anne Saddle further up the valley. 

The horse ford near the second Boyle bridge

Snow on the distant Libretto Range...

Quite a lot of snow...Libretto Range, Lewis Pass

Looking towards the Poplar Range on the Magdalen Hut Track
They obvious get some big floods up this valley as I was walking through flood debris a good 30+ metres away from the river itself on this section. 

Magdalen Hut Track: flood debris next to the Boyle River

After 20 minutes you arrive at Muritana Stream which is the last obstacle before reaching the hut. The stream is generally not a problem, although I have heard of people getting stuck on the wrong side here it when it really pours with rain. On this trip it was only 4-5 cm's deep.


Magdalen Hut and Muritana Stream

Libretto Range from Magdalen Hut

Snow on Mt Muritana from the Magdalen hut veranda

Magdalen Hut is very nice: it is a 6 bunker and has a firebox, brand new water tank and a full woodshed (at this time). The hut was built in 2008 to replace a much older NZFS6 from the late 1950's, it gets a lot of use through the year and is an excellent winter trip destination.


Magdalen Hut, Lake Sumner Forest Park

The wood shed was full this visit but if it is empty check out the scrub surrounding the hut- there is a LOT of dry wood there (I had a look around, lots of standing dry and wind fall wood).

Awesome sight- full woodshed at Magdalen Hut

That's a nice touch...thanks Olivier!

Interior of Magdalen Hut- the table and benches

Jon inside Magdalen Hut
The inside of the hut is very tidy, I was lucky the previous visitor a TA trekker called Olivier had cut up a nice pile of firewood when he was stuck here in the rain for a couple of days. He was heading NOBO for St Arnaud according to the DOC hut book, I hope he got there because there was a snow dump up on Waiau Pass that week. 

Thanks buddy...you're a legend!

Someone left me some firewood...thanks again Olivier!

Well done drawing of a Weta in the hut book


Interior Magdalen Hut- fire-box and bench

Interior Magdalen Hut- bunk area

Inside Magdalen Hut: Map of the immediate area

Inside Magdalen Hut: Fire notice
I basically spent the rest of the day cutting firewood and cleaning the hut, inter spaced with eating and copious cups of tea. Lots of good reading material in the hut ranging from some women's magazines right up to three volumes of an encyclopaedia.   

Surprisingly I had the hut to myself for two days- it was a surprise because the weather was glorious the whole time. In fact I didn't see another person during the whole course of this tramp.


Mt Maritana (1641) from near Magdalen Hut


Dinner One: Backcountry Cuisine Roast Lamb and Vegetables


Mood lighting in Magdalen Hut at dusk


The other end of Magdalen hut at Dusk

I'm glad there was wood because it was perishingly cold once the sun went behind the mountains, there is a bit of snow up on the high points and the Katabolic wind brings that cold down at night-time.

Day Two: Zero Day

Day two was a pit day: I slept in till about 9 am, got up lit the fire because of the frost outside and basically spent the rest of the day reading, cutting wood, cleaning the hut and relaxing. It was so cold the hut water tank froze overnight, but having experienced this before I made sure I was fully stocked with water before the frost settled on the Friday night.

DOC sign on the outside of Magdalen Hut...every hut has one


Setting the fire in Magdalen Hut on the Saturday morning


Lunch on Saturday; onion soup with added Ramen noodles!


I cut me some wood....!


I cut me some more wood....!

My main occupations- reading the hut literature, drinking tea...


...and eating crackers and  pate....my kind of tramping trip!
About 3 pm I went for a wander to the Boyle River and followed it till it turned down the valley towards State Highway 7. It was already starting to get cold as the sun falls behind the mountains at about 2 pm hereabouts. 

Jon with the Poplar Range in the background


Mons Sex Millia (1835) and DOC Mark I air portable dunny!

Your classic back country toilet...noice!


View to the south: Boyle River and the Poplar Range

If the Boyle is low enough you can just cross here and meet up with the St James Walkway at the point where it starts to climb that last ridge. However, be aware that there is a bit of swampy ground to traverse to get there. 

North: Mt Martha (1409) and the Boyle River...the St James Walkway climbs the hill on the left

The open area surrounding Magdalen Hut

Rear of Magdalen Hut, fire pit
I took Back-country freeze dried meals on this trip, two of my personal favourites Roast Lamb with Vegetables and Moroccan Lamb (Tagine). I was going for the light and fast approach...

Dinner two: BCC Moroccan Lamb with added onions & cashews


Mood lighting on the Saturday night, I just need some red wine
I went to sleep early on Saturday (around 8 pm) so I got nearly 11 hours sleep that night...

Day three: Heading for the BOEC and home...

Sunday opened bright and sunny with just a little mist on the higher ranges. It was frosty which was fine but meant I need to wear my merino's for only the second time in two years. I kept them on until I reached the lower Boyle bridge as it was cold walking in the lee of the mountains. 



A frosty Magdalen Hut, Sunday morning

DOC track sign near Magdalen Hut

Magdalen Hut clearing: my path lay that direction....

Au revoir Magdalen Hut....see you again soon.
I was off and walking by 8 am, this is late for me.  Part of winter tramping is the later dawn and earlier dusk you have to contend with, it is a bit difficult to tramp in the dark! The sun didn't fully rise over the ranges until I was walking down the access road to the BOEC around 11:30 am. 

The Boyle River from the Magdalen Hut Track

On the Magdalen Hut Track

Approaching the Mid Boyle River swing bridge


St James Walkway: nice track on the true right of the mid Boyle River
Below you can see how the side streams are all dry, there has been very little rainfall the last couple of months so things are a bit parched up in North Canterbury.

One of the dry side streams on the St James Walkway



View east towards St Andrews Farm, St James Walkway


Jon on his way home, Mon Sex Millia in the background
You can see how frosty it was, this grass was frozen so hard you could break sections off.  I imagine it gets no real sun for most of the winter months. 

Early morning frost on the St James Walkway

St Andrews Flats: still frozen at 10 am in the morning...

St James Walkway skirts the bush line


St Andrews Station access road

I saw a lot of deer sign up this valley, both prints and scat. The roar has just finished and with the colder weather the Red Deer will be coming down to the valley floor to take advantage of the grass still on offer. 

St James Walkway: A deer hoof print on the track


Approaching the lower Boyle Swing bridge


Back at the lower Boyle River bridge
When you get to the junction shown below you have two options: one is to go up on the access road and follow it down to the BOEC, this takes 20 minutes. The other is to keep following the track out to the end of the St James Walkway, this takes 30 minutes.

 I would recommend following the Walkway if this is your first experience of the St James, otherwise get on that access road and boogie on down...fast easy travel!


Left for the St Andrews Farm Access road, right for the St James Walkway

St Andrews access road heading to the BOEC

Doubtful Valley and Sylvia Tops from the St Andrews access road

Southern terminus of the St James Walkway: carpark, toilets etc.
Note you are not allowed to camp next to the end of the St James Walkway (there are DOC signs about not doing this). However, if you head about 200-300 metres up valley from the track end there is a nice flat space where you could raise a heap of tents.

A 2013 photo of the flats at the end of the St James Walkway...you can camp here!
 Alternately, go talk to the Outdoor Education Centre as they also have tramper accommodation available.


Entrance to the Boyle Outdoor Education Centre

...Boyle Outdoor Education Centre (BOEC)

It was a nice trip and even though it was to a hut I have visited before the pleasure was in having that hut to myself for three days and the joy of being outdoors. 

My main question: Where were all the people? The weather was fantastic on all three days. I felt sure that I would end up with 16 people in the hut with me on Saturday night but I saw not a soul the whole trip...weird!

BTW, I stopped off in Culverden (as is my norm) for a big arsed plate of bacon and eggs at the tearooms. The Culverden Tearooms are near the public toilet block on the main strip.

Main drag Culverden: the Culverden Tearooms and Cafe on the left of photo!

If you are ever passing through get in there: for $16 I got two big sausages, about six strips of bacon, two hash browns, a tomato, mushrooms and toast. The bacon is superb; smoky, crispy...really beautiful.  It must be some local supplier because it is NOT your usual commercially produced junk.

Access: Via the St James Walkway, from the Boyle River Settlement off SH 7, Lewis Pass
Track Times: 3-4 hours from Boyle Settlement to Magdalen Hut
Hut Details: Magdalen Hut; standard, 6 bunks, wood burner, water tank
Miscellaneous: Muritana Stream can flood in heavy rain, snowfall can be heavy (up to 2 metres deep in a winter snowstorm) so watch those weather forecasts