Return to Magdalen Hut, 2017 style
I was once again looking for a tramping location, my first thought was back to Nelson Lakes NP, but a bit of an iffy weather forecast did not bode well. A peruse of this blog showed that I haven't been into Magdalen Hut since 2013. I love this hut, it is relatively new (2008) and is a very nice 6 bunk hut about 3.5 hours along the Boyle River section of the St James Walkway.
So that was the destination I chose to visit, this marks my fourth visit to this hut.
I did something unusual for me, I stayed in the hut for 2 consecutive nights. I've never deliberately done this before, I have been hut bound by bad weather a couple of times though.
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| Sunrise from just west of Waipara,SH1 |
Day One: Boyle Outdoor Education Centre to Magdalen Hut
Because it is such a short trip into the hut I left a bit later than normal: 7 am as opposed to 4 am. It was a beautiful sunny day, the same weather I experienced for the next couple of days.
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| On SH 7 just past Hanmer Springs |
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| Map of the Boyle end of the St James Walkway |
I left my car parked at the
Boyle Outdoor Education Centre (BOEC), they offer a variety of services to trampers including secure parking, accommodation and a track shuttle service (in your own vehicle). Parking here is a much safer options than at the track end. There has been a 200% increase in car break-ins up here since the Kaikoura earthquakes re routed all the Christchurch - Picton traffic over Lewis Pass.
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| The Silver Surfer parked at Boyle Education Centre |
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| Boyle Outdoor Education Centre buildings |
First part of the trip is up the St Andrews access road, about 2 km's up the road there is an obvious junction down to the
St James Walkway. I always use this route as the official start of the St James has a lot of irritating up and down.
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| The St Andrews access road |
Be aware that DOC land ends at this track junction- do not go further up this access road as it is private property.
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| Entrance to St James Walkway from the St Andrews access road |
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| Frosty grass, St James Walkway |
The St James Walkway is easy walking for the most part, it is occasionally muddy but generally it is easy and safe in all weathers. From the access road it is about a kilometre to the first swing bridge over the Boyle River.
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| Moving through Manuka/Kanuka regrowth, St James Walkway |
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| Descending down to the first Boyle River swing-bridge |
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| First swing bridge over the Boyle, St James Walkway |
The Boyle is a well known trout fishery, in season you will often see anglers trolling the pools of the river, especially around the swing bridge. Once over the bridge you are on the true right of the river for the next two hours.
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| Boyle River gorge from the St James Walkway |
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| NZ Wren on the St James Walkway |
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| Jon en-route to Magdalen Hut |
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| This could use some board walk...St James Walkway |
I see that there is now a horse trek concession up this part of the St James, through to
Anne Hut and then out via St James Recreation land. There is a bit of horse manure to avoid but so far it hasn't impacted the track to any great extent.
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| Horse Trek route sign, St James Walkway |
The walkway is a succession of forest, grass plain and short rocky sidle sections always just within the forest line. There are a number of side streams to cross on the way, but at this time of the year they were either totally dry or almost dry.
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| Boyle River from the St James Walkway |
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| View east towards St Andrews Station |
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| View west towards SH 7 through Lewis Pass |
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| Crossing unnamed stream, St James Walkway |
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| Crossing a patch of forest, St James Walkway |
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| St Andrews Station Flats, St James Walkway |
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| View East towards St Andrews Station, St James Walkway |
Eventually you reach the terraced ridge at the end of the valley, the walkway goes up and over this ridge but it is very gentle travel as the track is nicely benched along here. The top of the ridge is a different story. It is muddy - this is a section that is crying out for a set of board walks to protect the swamp that occupies the terrace.
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| Climbing over one of the ridges along the St James Walkway |
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| High point for this tramp about 860 metres a.s.l, St James Walkway |
Below is an example of the mud you encounter- its not to bad at this time of year but in the Spring it can be knee deep in some places. A set of board walks would stop the track getting any bigger, in places it is 20 meters wide as people try to avoid the mud. The whole top of this terrace is a very poorly draining swamp.
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| The ubiquitous mud- St James Walkway |
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| Muritana Stream, Magdalen Hut is down there... |
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| Heading back down to the mid Boyle, St James Walkway |
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| Approaching the Mid Boyle swing bridge |
You reach the second Boyle River swing bridge after 3-3.5 hours, from here it is right turn, then down river to Magdalen Hut about 20-30 minutes away.
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| Mid Boyle Swing bridge from true right |
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| Jon at the Mid Boyle Swing bridge |
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| Mid Boyle Swing bridge |
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| Start of the Magdalen Hut Track |
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| On the Magdalen Hut Track |
Below is the ford the horse trekking company uses, they don't go over the ridge, rather they follow the course of the Boyle River. Once past this point they follow the old benched track leading to
Boyle Flat Hut and Anne Saddle further up the valley.
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| The horse ford near the second Boyle bridge |
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| Snow on the distant Libretto Range... |
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| Quite a lot of snow...Libretto Range, Lewis Pass |
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| Looking towards the Poplar Range on the Magdalen Hut Track |
They obvious get some big floods up this valley as I was walking through flood debris a good 30+ metres away from the river itself on this section.
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| Magdalen Hut Track: flood debris next to the Boyle River |
After 20 minutes you arrive at Muritana Stream which is the last obstacle before reaching the hut. The stream is generally not a problem, although I have heard of people getting stuck on the wrong side here it when it really pours with rain. On this trip it was only 4-5 cm's deep.
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| Magdalen Hut and Muritana Stream |
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| Libretto Range from Magdalen Hut |
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| Snow on Mt Muritana from the Magdalen hut veranda |
Magdalen Hut is very nice: it is a 6 bunker and has a firebox, brand new water tank and a full woodshed (at this time). The hut was built in 2008 to replace a much older NZFS6 from the late 1950's, it gets a lot of use through the year and is an excellent winter trip destination.
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| Magdalen Hut, Lake Sumner Forest Park |
The wood shed was full this visit but if it is empty check out the scrub surrounding the hut- there is a LOT of dry wood there (I had a look around, lots of standing dry and wind fall wood).
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| Awesome sight- full woodshed at Magdalen Hut |
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| That's a nice touch...thanks Olivier! |
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| Interior of Magdalen Hut- the table and benches |
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| Jon inside Magdalen Hut |
The inside of the hut is very tidy, I was lucky the previous visitor a TA trekker called Olivier had cut up a nice pile of firewood when he was stuck here in the rain for a couple of days. He was heading NOBO for St Arnaud according to the DOC hut book, I hope he got there because there was a snow dump up on Waiau Pass that week.
Thanks buddy...you're a legend!
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| Someone left me some firewood...thanks again Olivier! |
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| Well done drawing of a Weta in the hut book |
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| Interior Magdalen Hut- fire-box and bench |
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| Interior Magdalen Hut- bunk area |
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| Inside Magdalen Hut: Map of the immediate area |
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| Inside Magdalen Hut: Fire notice |
I basically spent the rest of the day cutting firewood and cleaning the hut, inter spaced with eating and copious cups of tea. Lots of good reading material in the hut ranging from some women's magazines right up to three volumes of an encyclopaedia.
Surprisingly I had the hut to myself for two days- it was a surprise because the weather was glorious the whole time. In fact I didn't see another person during the whole course of this tramp.
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| Mt Maritana (1641) from near Magdalen Hut |
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| Dinner One: Backcountry Cuisine Roast Lamb and Vegetables |
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| Mood lighting in Magdalen Hut at dusk |
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| The other end of Magdalen hut at Dusk |
I'm glad there was wood because it was perishingly cold once the sun went behind the mountains, there is a bit of snow up on the high points and the Katabolic wind brings that cold down at night-time.
Day Two: Zero Day
Day two was a pit day: I slept in till about 9 am, got up lit the fire because of the frost outside and basically spent the rest of the day reading, cutting wood, cleaning the hut and relaxing. It was so cold the hut water tank froze overnight, but having experienced this before I made sure I was fully stocked with water before the frost settled on the Friday night.
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| DOC sign on the outside of Magdalen Hut...every hut has one |
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| Setting the fire in Magdalen Hut on the Saturday morning |
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| Lunch on Saturday; onion soup with added Ramen noodles! |
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| I cut me some wood....! |
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| I cut me some more wood....! |
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| My main occupations- reading the hut literature, drinking tea... |
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| ...and eating crackers and pate....my kind of tramping trip! |
About 3 pm I went for a wander to the Boyle River and followed it till it turned down the valley towards State Highway 7. It was already starting to get cold as the sun falls behind the mountains at about 2 pm hereabouts.
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| Jon with the Poplar Range in the background |
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| Mons Sex Millia (1835) and DOC Mark I air portable dunny! |
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| Your classic back country toilet...noice! |
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| View to the south: Boyle River and the Poplar Range |
If the Boyle is low enough you can just cross here and meet up with the St James Walkway at the point where it starts to climb that last ridge. However, be aware that there is a bit of swampy ground to traverse to get there.
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| North: Mt Martha (1409) and the Boyle River...the St James Walkway climbs the hill on the left |
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| The open area surrounding Magdalen Hut |
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| Rear of Magdalen Hut, fire pit |
I took Back-country freeze dried meals on this trip, two of my personal favourites Roast Lamb with Vegetables and Moroccan Lamb (Tagine). I was going for the light and fast approach...
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| Dinner two: BCC Moroccan Lamb with added onions & cashews |
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| Mood lighting on the Saturday night, I just need some red wine |
I went to sleep early on Saturday (around 8 pm) so I got nearly 11 hours sleep that night...
Day three: Heading for the BOEC and home...
Sunday opened bright and sunny with just a little mist on the higher ranges. It was frosty which was fine but meant I need to wear my merino's for only the second time in two years. I kept them on until I reached the lower Boyle bridge as it was cold walking in the lee of the mountains.
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| A frosty Magdalen Hut, Sunday morning |
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| DOC track sign near Magdalen Hut |
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| Magdalen Hut clearing: my path lay that direction.... |
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| Au revoir Magdalen Hut....see you again soon. |
I was off and walking by 8 am, this is late for me. Part of winter tramping is the later dawn and earlier dusk you have to contend with, it is a bit difficult to tramp in the dark! The sun didn't fully rise over the ranges until I was walking down the access road to the BOEC around 11:30 am.
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| The Boyle River from the Magdalen Hut Track |
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| On the Magdalen Hut Track |
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| Approaching the Mid Boyle River swing bridge |
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| St James Walkway: nice track on the true right of the mid Boyle River |
Below you can see how the side streams are all dry, there has been very little rainfall the last couple of months so things are a bit parched up in North Canterbury.
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| One of the dry side streams on the St James Walkway |
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| View east towards St Andrews Farm, St James Walkway |
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| Jon on his way home, Mon Sex Millia in the background |
You can see how frosty it was, this grass was frozen so hard you could break sections off. I imagine it gets no real sun for most of the winter months.
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| Early morning frost on the St James Walkway |
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| St Andrews Flats: still frozen at 10 am in the morning... |
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| St James Walkway skirts the bush line |
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| St Andrews Station access road |
I saw a lot of deer sign up this valley, both prints and scat. The roar has just finished and with the colder weather the Red Deer will be coming down to the valley floor to take advantage of the grass still on offer.
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| St James Walkway: A deer hoof print on the track |
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| Approaching the lower Boyle Swing bridge |
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| Back at the lower Boyle River bridge |
When you get to the junction shown below you have two options: one is to go up on the access road and follow it down to the BOEC, this takes 20 minutes. The other is to keep following the track out to the end of the St James Walkway, this takes 30 minutes.
I would recommend following the Walkway if this is your first experience of the St James, otherwise get on that access road and boogie on down...fast easy travel!
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| Left for the St Andrews Farm Access road, right for the St James Walkway |
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| St Andrews access road heading to the BOEC |
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| Doubtful Valley and Sylvia Tops from the St Andrews access road |
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| Southern terminus of the St James Walkway: carpark, toilets etc. |
Note you are not allowed to camp next to the end of the St James Walkway (there are DOC signs about not doing this). However, if you head about 200-300 metres up valley from the track end there is a nice flat space where you could raise a heap of tents.
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| A 2013 photo of the flats at the end of the St James Walkway...you can camp here! |
Alternately, go talk to the Outdoor Education Centre as they also have tramper accommodation available.
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| Entrance to the Boyle Outdoor Education Centre |
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| ...Boyle Outdoor Education Centre (BOEC) |
It was a nice trip and even though it was to a hut I have visited before the pleasure was in having that hut to myself for three days and the joy of being outdoors.
My main question: Where were all the people? The weather was fantastic on all three days. I felt sure that I would end up with 16 people in the hut with me on Saturday night but I saw not a soul the whole trip...weird!
BTW, I stopped off in Culverden (as is my norm) for a big arsed plate of bacon and eggs at the tearooms. The
Culverden Tearooms are near the public toilet block on the main strip.
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| Main drag Culverden: the Culverden Tearooms and Cafe on the left of photo! |
If you are ever passing through get in there: for $16 I got two big sausages, about six strips of bacon, two hash browns, a tomato, mushrooms and toast. The bacon is superb; smoky, crispy...really beautiful. It must be some local supplier because it is NOT your usual commercially produced junk.
