The huts of the Heaphy Track...

A quick glance at the huts on the Heaphy Track

 I recently finished walking the Heaphy Track and I thought it would worthwhile to highlight the fantastic array of huts you will find along the track. There are six huts and eight shelters along the track and they provide overnight accommodation and sheltered lunch spots for all the riders and trampers who cover the track. 

Jon on the MacKay Downs, Heaphy Track

I walked the Heaphy Track from Brown River to Kohaihai so let us follow the huts in that direction and find out a bit more about each of them...

Brown River to Perry Saddle Hut:

The first day on the Heaphy Track is the walk from the Brown River carpark to Perry Saddle Hut...it is 18 km's over 5-6 hours...

Brown River Shelter:

First shelter on the Heaphy Track is the day shelter at the Brown River road end. It is a relatively new building built in the last couple of years and has covered seating, a water tank and a set of flush toilets. It is mainly intended as a covered waiting point for people taking transport out to Takaka and Nelson. 

The day shelter at the Brown River carpark, Kahurangi NP

The Heaphy Track starts right next to the shelter and there is an iconic Heaphy Track sign located adjacent to it. I stopped here for a couple of minutes and packed my loose gear before setting out on my journey...

The Heaphy Track begins right next to the shelter...

FYI: DOC have weather information and contact details for transport operators on the walls of the shelter. Most transport from this location needs to be pre booked...see my post about organising a trip on the Heaphy Track...

Specifications:

Day shelter with seating, watertank from roof, and flush toilets

Brown Hut:

Brown Hut is the first hut along the Heaphy Track and is just 200 meters down the track from the Brown River car park. It is the second oldest hut on the track and is often used as the starting point for late arriving people walking the track, overnight visitors and anglers. The Brown River is a noted trout fishery and the shuttle driver and I were talking about fishing in the local rivers on the way to the track. 

Brown Hut (1971), Kahurangi NP

I stayed in Brown Hut back in the early 1990's when my partner (at that time) and I walked into the old Perry Saddle Hut. We spent the night there after arriving late and then set out to the next hut the following morning. I liked the hut as it is super quirky with the stonework around the foundation and the Brown River is very close to the hut. 

Brown Hut has sleeping platforms for sixteen people

I love sleeping platforms in a hut and when I think of a backcountry hut they are one of the images I see in my mind. Brown Hut has these funky deeply varnished ones. 

Nice!!!

FYI: there are camping sites next to and around the hut and there is enough space here for about 10 tents in total!!!

Specifications:

Great Walk Hut: 16 bunks, 10 campsites, water from tanks, wood burner, flush toilets, picnic tables

Aorere Shelter:

Aorere Shelter is the first of the campsite shelters on the Heaphy Track when walking from north to south. It is an open, three sided structure with seating inside and out and is immediately adjacent to the campsite. Several of the older campsite shelters on the Heaphy Track are built to this pattern and it is a very well thought out and useful design. 

Aorere Shelter (1980's), Kahurangi NP

The shelters are built with only three sides to discourage people sleeping in them though I am sure some would do so anyway especially when it is raining. They could do with bug screens across the front as the sandflies are numerous in this part of the country...the open side reduces the usefulness of the shelter.

The inside of the Aorere Shelter on the Heaphy Track

There is a small covered bench with water taps and a sink adjacent to the shelter and this is where the campers can take water and clean their dishes etc. This design is used at nearly all the campsites on this track...I like it because I can see it would work well. 

The small cleaning sink and water source at Aorere Shelter

All of the campsite shelters built to this pattern were constructed back in the 1980's and while they are well maintained they are starting to show their age. They are over 40 years old now and would see a power of use year after year...do they need to be replaced? 

Specifications:

Campsite shelter, 5 campsites, seating, watertank from roof, flush toilets

Perry Saddle Hut:

Perry Saddle Hut is where most people will spend the first night of their tramp on the Heaphy Track. It is at the end of the long six hour climb up from Brown Hut and it is a welcome sight as it rolls into view from near Lookout Point. The hut is located on the northern edge of Perry Saddle which links the Tasman coast with the downlands you cover on day three. 

Perry Saddle Hut (2012), Kahurangi NP

Several of the huts on this track were replaced over 2012-2014 as the previous buildings could not cope with the increasing number of people who are using the track. Perry Saddle along with James MacKay and Heaphy Hut are all built to the same basic template with three bunkrooms, a large central living space and attached toilet block. All three are excellent places to stay and typical of the newer DOC backcountry huts. 

Living space inside Perry Saddle Hut, Kahurangi NP

The bunkrooms at Perry Saddle are named and I stayed in Kaka Saddle which is a terrain feature in the nearby Gouland Range. The other two bunkrooms were Dragons Teeth and Mount Perry. None of the other huts had named bunkrooms...

Kaka Bunkroom at Perry Saddle Hut

The hut was about 2/3 full which was the norm for the days I was walking the track. Usually the huts are totally full at this time of year but a huge chunk of the population was locked down in Auckland which probably explains why the huts had empty bunks...

Specifications:

Great Walk Hut: 28 bunks, water from tanks, wood burner, flush toilets, picnic tables

Perry Saddle Campsite Shelter:

Each of the larger Heaphy Track huts has a co-located campsite with space for 5-10 tents and Perry Saddle is no exception. There is a separate campsite shelter as campers are not permitted to use the living space inside a Great Walk hut. Your average Great Walk hut has from 20-40 visitors each night and adding another 10-20 people would make for crowded conditions...

The campsite shelter at Perry Saddle is different from the other huts. It is a more basic structure with openings on two of the sides and it has heavy duty plastic curtains which can be rolled up to open or close the structure. I'm not sure if I like this design as much as the older shelters because those curtains will perish over time and it might be difficult to find replacements. 

Specifications:

Campsite shelter with 5 campsites, seating, watertank from roof, and flush toilets

 

Perry Saddle Hut to James MacKay Hut:

The second day of the track starts out in the forest near Perry Saddle but you will soon find yourself crossing the tussock covered downland of Gouland Downs and MacKay Downs. Some people will walk to James MacKay Hut in one day (24km's or 6-9 hours!!!) but you can also stop for the night at either Gouland Downs Hut or Saxon Hut along the way. 

Gouland Downs Hut:

Gouland Downs Hut is the oldest hut on the Heaphy Track and it has a lot of charm with its cosy rustic interior, open fireplace and ton of history. This was originally a deer cullers hut before the track was recut and it has been in continuous use since it was built in 1957. 

Gouland Downs Hut (1957), Kahurangi NP

The hut has been well maintained and it is just as comfortable as any other on the track...it would be worth staying a night if that fits into your plans just for the open fireplace. 

The interior of Gouland Downs Hut....

One of the main attractions with this hut is the chance to see Takahe in the wild. Gouland Downs is the place you are most likely to see Takahe as they were released close to the hut and several have stayed in the general vicinity. I talked to the people who stayed in Gouland Downs Hut the night before I arrived and they saw three Takahe at the same time the previous evening...

Specifications:

Great Walk Hut: 8 bunks, water from tanks, open fire, flush toilets, picnic tables

Saxon Hut:

I think Saxon Hut was my favorite on this track...it is smaller than the newer huts but it really reminds me of other serviced huts I have visited around the country. Saxon Hut is located on the edge of Gouland Downs and I think it is a better accommodation option than walking all the way from Perry Saddle to James MacKay Hut in one day. 

Saxon Hut (1984), Kahurangi NP

 The hut is mid sized and will easily hold 16 people though the night I stayed it was just myself and an English couple. It has sleeping platforms and a lay out which reminded me of huts on the St James Walkway, Arthurs Pass NP and in Nelson Lakes NP. I love this style of hut and will actively seek them out when I am planning my tramping trips... 

Saxon Hut is also a place that Takahe like to visit and I was so pleased to stay here as a Takahe spent most of the afternoon around the hut on the night I was there. It was quite tame and walked up to the three of us and browsed the grass around the hut clearing. 

A native Takahe chows down on the grass outside Saxon Hut

Surprisingly there is no campsite shelter at the Saxon Hut site even though there are five campsites located here. I suppose the hut gets so little use they just decided that people will be able to sit inside the hut to eat their meals. 

Specifications:

Great Walk Hut: 16 bunks, 5 campsites, water from tanks, wood burner, flush toilets, picnic tables

James MacKay Hut:

James MacKay Hut marks the dividing line between the sub alpine downland and the forest you will be passing through on your descent down to the Lewis River on the second to last day of your trip. It sits right on the edge of MacKay Downs and on a fine day the mouth of the Heaphy River is clearly visible in the distance.

James MacKay Hut (2012), Kahurangi NP

The hut had a nice feel to it and I thought it was my second best liked hut on this track. I think it helped that I arrived in a rain storm and within an hour I was dry and had a blazing fire going. It has a wonderful veranda around it and I could see sitting outside and reading over a sunny afternoon as it had the least number of sandflies of any of the huts on this track. 

Inside one of the bunkrooms at James MacKay Hut

The hut warden at James MacKay was a Kiwi women who has been working up here every summer for over a decade and she was awesome and totally typical of a West Coaster. 

Specifications:

Great Walk Hut: 28 bunks, water from tanks, wood burner, flush toilets, picnic tables

James MacKay Campsite Shelter:

James MacKay is the most exposed of the hut and campsite locations on the Heaphy Track so I was expecting a heavy duty campsite shelter and I was not mistaken. The new shelter here is a nearly enclosed structure with only a door sized gap on one wall open to the air.  It looks like one of those DOC relocatable staff quarters which has been repurposed. 

James MacKay Campsite Shelter (2020), Kahurangi NP

 The building looks to be insulated and it has a bench, sink and water taps inside with a couple of flushing toilets located not too far away. Again...it should really be enclosed so that you can use the facilities without being eaten alive by the bugs. 

Interior of the new campsite shelter at James MacKay Hut

The tent sites both here and at Saxon Hut were of the platform type...wooden platforms with tie down points attached to them. A free standing tent is the best option on this type of platform but any tent can be set up on them with a bit of thought. 

The platform tent sites at James MacKay Campsite

The trip from James MacKay Hut to Heaphy Hut will be on either day three or four of your trip depending on how many days you are walking the track over...

Specifications:

Campsite shelter with 5 campsites, seating, watertank from roof, and flush toilets

 Ministry of Works Hut:

Now...right from the start I am going to tell you to seriously think before undertaking the trip to the MOW Hut on MacKay Downs. This is a serious off track trip with significant consequences if you get lost enroute to the hut. It should only be attempted by people with excellent backcountry experience, navigation skills, good maps AND a GPS unit. 

DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS ROUTE unless you have these skills and equipment!!!

The Ministry of Works Hut is the most original SF70 six bunk hut left in New Zealand and is a Mecca level acquisition for serious hut baggers. There is no marked track and some serious bush bashing is required to access the hut. 

The Ministry of Works Hut in Kahurangi NP

The Ministry of Works Hut was built in the early 1970's when the then Ministry of Works were contemplating building a road from Collingwood to Karamea. They were serious about this project as government surveyors spent nearly two years plotting the route of the road before it was decided it would be too difficult and costly to build. 

Bush bashing from the Heaphy Track to the MOW Hut

The MOW Hut can be accessed from the Heaphy Track as a side trip or as part of the longer Heaphy River to Kahurangi Lighthouse Route. It would require an additional two days from the Heaphy Track as it is rough and rugged terrain. You need one day to get to the hut and another to get back to the Heaphy Track on top of walking the Heaphy Track itself. 

Typical terrain over MacKay Downs you will cross...

There are possible routes from James MacKay Hut, Horrible Creek and Blueshirt Creek and there are many discussions of these routes online. The most straightforward is up Blueshirt Creek but all of them cross a confusing mix of downs, thick bush, creek beds and swamp. Only 10-20 parties make it here each year which gives you an idea of the intensity of the route. 

You drop off this bridge near Blueshirt Creek...to get to MOW Hut

I am only including this here as an increasing number of people are attempting the route to the hut and it is something you can consider if your skills are up to the task. Be forewarned...it is tiger country!!!

Specifications:

Basic, 6 bunks, open fire, water from stream, no toilet

James Mackay Hut to Kohaihai:

From James MacKay Hut you are dropping down to the confluence of the Lewis and Heaphy River before spending two solid hours walking along the river and out to the coast. For me it was the longest day of the track at 21 km's and over 6 hours and even though it is mostly downhill you will still be tired when you get to Heaphy Hut. 

Lewis Shelter:

In 2020 DOC decided to remove the old Lewis Hut from its location at the confluence of the Lewis and Heaphy Rivers. This hut was similar to Saxon Hut and was a useful place to stay for those walking south to north along the track. 

The old Lewis Hut (1970's-2021)

The hut was removed as erosion had started to seriously threaten the hut site and it was decided that it should be replaced with a day shelter only. It was only completed in October of 2021 about a month before I started the track. 

Lewis Shelter (2021), Kahurangi NP

It is an excellent day shelter but I personally think it has a number of flaws. The most glaring is that it is open sided in possibly the most sandfly plagued spot outside of the Hollyford Valley. There were so many vicious sandflies here that it is basically unusable. I was covered in extra strength DEET and they were laughing at me as they chewed me to death.

Bastids!!!

Interior of the new Lewis Shelter on the Heaphy Track

There are seats inside the hut and an extensive bench so you could get the cooker out and heat water for soup, meals and hot drinks. There is also a very nice view from the veranda down to the Heaphy River Suspension Bridge and Lewis River. 

The other end of the interior space at the Lewis shelter...

There is a bench just outside the entrance to the shelter with two water taps and a couple of sinks. The water here is not filtered so you will need to boil, filter or treat it yourself as it comes from a nearby stream. 

The taps and sinks on the exterior of Lewis Shelter

If the shelter had doors I would be giving it five stars as it is a good design but just not for this track and this location. For example this shelter would be perfect up on the escarpment on the Paparoa Track. You would be better to stop in a heavily forested spot on the track to eat your lunch as you are less likely to be murdered by sandflies. 

View of the Lewis Shelter from the veranda...

Given the size of the new shelter, how much it probably cost, its location and the conditions you face on the Heaphy Track I really think they should have replaced the old Lewis Hut with a new hut. It could have been smaller...like one of those 10 person huts you see around the country. It would be useful for people travelling NOBO along the track to have somewhere to potentially stay before that massive climb up to the James MacKay Hut. 

It is just my personal opinion but I think this was a missed call...

Specifications:

Day shelter with seating, watertank from roof, and flush toilets

Heaphy Hut:

Heaphy Hut is either your first or last nights accommodation on the Heaphy Track and because it is used by people heading both ways it is slightly bigger at 32 bunks. It is in a absolutely premium spot and if this was any place but New Zealand there would be a multi million dollar house or lodge built here. 

Heaphy Hut (2014), Kahurangi NP

As I said earlier it is of the same basic design as Perry Saddle and James MacKay but it has four bunkrooms and not three. It has the largest living space of all the huts on this track and it is by far the largest overall when it comes to dimensions. This is the fourth hut constructed on this same spot so the original hut builders choose the right place to locate it. 

Interior of Heaphy Hut at the mouth of the Heaphy river

When you visit you absolutely must go down to the beach at the mouth of the Heaphy River. It is the most awesome spot around the hut and you can swim in the river, sunbathe, go fishing in the estuary (with a permit) and just enjoy the scenery. 

I spent nearly an hour at the beach myself as there is a lot to see and do. 

View up the Heaphy River Valley from the estuary

This family caught three big fish at the Heaphy River Estuary

BTW...there is cell cover from the beach if you get down close to the waterline...I checked MetService and talked to Karen down at Karamea for about 30 minutes without any problems. I also sent some photos to Facebook so you can send and receive from here. 

Specifications:

Great Walk Hut: 32 bunks, water from tanks, wood burner, flush toilets, picnic tables

Heaphy Campsite Shelter:

There is a campsite at Heaphy Beach and it has space for over 20 tents on a large and well groomed area of grass in front of the hut. The shelter is to the same design as the Aorere and Katipo Creek locations and has interior seating, toilets, tap water and sinks...

Heaphy Campsite Shelter (1980's), Kahurangi NP

Again with the open sided shelters....anywhere else this would be excellent but in the context of the sandfly infested West Coast it just doesn't work. Still...it is better than standing out in the cold and rain cooking your meals. 

Interior of the campsite shelter at the Heaphy River

If I was walking/riding the Heaphy Track and tenting I would be taking "no cook" foods as you can still eat but stay inside your tent away form the damn bugs. Sandwiches, salads, crackers and cold soak meals would be better than hot food...to limit your exposure.

Specifications:

Campsite shelter with 20 campsites, seating, fireplaces, watertank from roof, and flush toilets

Katipo Creek Shelter:

Katipo Creek Shelter is the last shelter on the actual track and services the small campsite located next to the Katipo Creek bridge. It is the half way point between Heaphy Hut and Kohaihai and it is the natural place to stop for a break as you make your way between them. 

Katipo Creek Shelter (1980's), Kahurangi NP

These structures are very basic but they offer a modicum of protection from the elements for those camping here or on their way to other places. You would really appreciate these shelters in a big rain storm...of that I can be sure. 

The interior of the Katipo Creek Shelter

Both times I have been here I spent less than five minutes which was just enough time for a drink, snack and to tie my bootlaces etc. I signed the intensions book in all of these shelters built to this design as they all have one to be filled out by the campsite residents. 

Specifications:

Campsite shelter with 5 campsites, seating, watertank from roof, and flush toilets

Kohaihai Shelter:

The end of the line for those walking the track from north to south and a good spot to wait for your transport once you walk off the track. The shelter is built to the same basic design as those at Aorere, Katipo Creek and the Heaphy River but this one is more elaboratively decorated. 

Kohaihai Day Shelter (1980's), Kahurangi NP

The shelter at Kohaihai is primarily for people waiting for a shuttle bus etc. but it would also be a great place to organise your gear before setting out along the track. You could go into the shelter when it is raining and sort out your pack without getting everything inside it wet. 

Kohaihai Shelter...typical DOC day shelter seen at many road-ends. 

The campsite at Kohaihai looks to be a ripper and it has a brand new ablution block with toilets, showers, tank water and some cooking benches. There is quite a lot to do in the local area and most people could easily spend two days here walking, visiting the beach and exploring the nearby river. 

Specifications:

Day shelter with seating, watertank from roof, and flush toilets. There is a campsite nearby with showers and a new ablution block. 

So there you go all the huts and shelters you are likely to encounter along the Heaphy Track. There are some real beauties on this track and DOC has provided a variety of huts and campsite shelters for you to stay at while you are walking or riding the track. 

Kahurangi NP: Heaphy Track, Day 1, Brown River to Perry Saddle Hut Hut:

...a return to the Heaphy Track after 32 years....

I recently completed the Heaphy Track which is a Great Walk located in Kahurangi National Park.  Over 4 night and 5 days I covered the 78.4  kilometers from the Brown River carpark in Golden Bay to Kohaihai on the West Coast. 

Start of the Heaphy Track at Brown River carpark

The side track to Shakespeare Flat...from the main Heaphy Track

I have walked the track in sections back in the 1980's and 1990's but never the full length in one go. The last time I was here was way back in 1992 and although I have touched areas of Kahurangi NP since then I have never immersed myself in the park for multiple days.

First view of Perry Saddle Hut, Heaphy Track 

The Heaphy Track is noted for a couple of things...it is the longest of the Great Walks by over 20 kilometers, it has Giant Snails and Takahe along its route and each day is different from the others. Day one is a long grind up nearly 1000 meters from the Brown River carpark to Perry Saddle. The second day is spent walking across Gouland Downs with its limestone structures, stunted forest and wide open plains of tussock. 

A rare backcountry sign...Mind the Takahe!!!

Me standing outside Gouland Downs Hut on day 2...

A well benched track between Gouland Downs and Saxon Hut

Once you get to Gouland Downs Hut or Saxon Hut you have the opportunity to see one of the rarest birds in the world...the Takahe. There are roughly 300 of these birds left in total and if you are lucky you might get to see 2-4 of them. I was privileged to see Takahe at Saxon Hut and I was so pleased as it was one of the reasons I wanted to return to the Heaphy Track. 

The Takahe at Saxon Hut....Heaphy Track 

Day three for me was more travel over the Downs as I made my way to James Mackay Hut but you also pass through an area of classic glaciation. There was a glacier overlaying this area as little as 20 000 years ago and the signs of its passage are everywhere. You will see Roche Moutons, glacial erratic's, striated rocks, moraine walls and kettle lakes. 

One of many streams you cross between Saxon Hut and James MacKay Hut

On the MacKay Downs on day three....Heaphy Track 

Another stream near James MacKay Hut

From James MacKay the terrain changes once again and you find yourself walking downhill through lush West Coast Podocarp forest to the Lewis/Heaphy River Junction. The forest forms a thick canopy overhead for much of the day and the rain that fell made for a dark, wet environment amongst the trees. 

Enroute for the Heaphy River on day four...

 

View down to the Heaphy River from the track...

Once over the Lewis Bridge you walk through lowland forest with massive Southern Rata over 20 meters around the trunk, densely thick tropical forest and Nikau Palms. 

Massive Southern Rata tree near the Heaphy River Bridge

Limestone lowland forest on the way to Heaphy Hut

Heaphy Hut is your destination and once there you are right next to a beautiful river mouth with the rough Tasman Sea washing across the beaches. The river is home to a multitude of native wading birds and you can enjoy a refreshing dip in the Heaphy River if you dare defy the multitudes of sandflies. 

At the Heaphy River mouth near the hut

 The view from the river back up into the mountains was dark and moody with dark angry rain clouds heralding heavy rain which fell through most of the afternoon. 

View up the Heaphy River from near Heaphy Hut

Mouth of the Heaphy River, Heaphy Track 

The last day of the trip is equally as spectacular as you walk the 16 odd kilometers along the coast to the end of the track at Kohaihai. You start in dense Nikau forest before breaking back into the open as you walk along the remote wind swept beaches heading south. Cliff side walking is then interspaced with more Nikau, dense coastal rain forest and those golden beaches. 

On the Heaphy Track on the last day...

Wekakura Creek Bridge, Heaphy Track 

20 Minute Beach half way to Kohaihai, Heaphy Track 

Scotts Beach sits at the end of the coastal section and is a good place to stop for a short break before tackling the climb over the ridge to Kohaihai and the end of the Heaphy Track. The forest over the Kohaihai Bluff is very attractive and there is a lookout point at the apex where you can see right back down the coast. 

Scotts Beach near the end of the Heaphy Track 

View north from the lookout on Kohaihai Bluff, Heaphy Track

Then it is down to the Kohaihai River Bridge and the short walk alongside the river to the carpark, campsite and shelter at the track end. 

Kohaihai River Bridge...Heaphy Track 

Mouth of the Kohaihai River at the end of the track

I have broken the trip down into several parts so lets have a look at the section of track from Brown River carpark to Perry Saddle Hut on day one...

Day 1: Brown River to Perry Saddle Hut: (6 hours, 18 kilometers)

I had to start walking the Heaphy Track on a Wednesday as this was the only day I could get transport into the Brown River carpark on the Golden Bay side of the track. Most of the transport companies have either gone out of business or reduced trips due to Covid. At the moment only Heaphy Bus visits on Sunday and Wednesday and Golden Bay Air runs people into the track start. 

The new shelter at the Brown River carpark

There were just the three of us using the Heaphy Bus Shuttle that day and as we were in a four wheel drive the trip was quick and efficient. Ed and Bella were an English couple and we spent the next five days together as we stayed in the same series of huts. We were at the bus shelter at Brown River by 9.45 am and I was off and walking down the track by 10 am. This was nearly an hour and a half earlier than expected...beauty!!!

The Brown River carpark, Kahurangi NP

On the 4 W/D road to Brown Hut, Kahurangi NP

I headed down to Brown Hut which is about 10  minutes walk up the Heaphy Track and sorted my gear and took some photos before hitting the track proper. I had a small packable day bag with me that I had to stash in my pack with my phone, tickets and water inside. Then I went into the hut to have a look at how it had changed since 1992 which was the last time I was here...its hasn't!!!

Brown Hut (1971), Kahurangi NP

Table and bunks inside Brown Hut, Kahurangi NP

I would like to have stayed a night at Brown Hut but I just couldn't get any transport there on a date that suited me. It is the second oldest hut on the track (built in 1971) and only Gouland Downs is older. I will talk about it in more depth in a forth coming post about the huts along this track. 

Brown Hut has bunks for 20 people....

The track from Brown Hut is flat for about the first kilometer but once you cross over the Brown River suspension bridge you start the climb up to Perry Saddle. It is 17 kilometers to Perry Saddle Hut and you will spent at least the next five hours slowly winding your way up to the hut site. 

On the track to Brown River Bridge, Heaphy Track

Brown River is the first of many bridges you will cross over the course of the track and you will walk over a number of small creeks, streams and rivulets all the way up to Perry Saddle Hut. Almost all of them can be used as sources of drinking water as there is very little to no human habitation along the length of the Heaphy Track. 

Brown River Bridge, Heaphy Track

...prior bookings are needed for all huts and campsites on the Heaphy Track...

There were signs of the old NZFS and Ministry of Internal Affairs days along the track...old NZFS signs, Walkways Commission posts and some old track signs from the days before DOC had responsibility for the track. 

Old NZFS track marker near Brown River Bridge

Start of the climb to Perry Saddle Hut

The Heaphy Track is one of several Great Walks which have marker posts a kilometer away from the huts. These are great pick me ups when walking as you know when you are getting close to the end of the day. Other tracks with these posts are the Kepler and Milford Tracks down south and the Northern Circuit Track in the North Island. 

Heaphy Track: hut markers which note distance to hut....

.....we are one kilometer from Brown Hut....

The track from Brown Hut to Perry Saddle is all up hill until you reach Flanagan's Corner just 30 minutes from the end of the day. It is not especially steep but it is long, rocky and unrelenting in nature. It is quite hard work and I was feeling tired by the end of the day...

Heaphy Track: benched track section....

First water source along the Heaphy Track

The track on day one is almost completely in the forest except for the occasional clearing where you can see out into the Aorere River Valley. The forest changes as you climb from lowland forest to Beech forest and then into sub alpine forest as you get close to Perry Saddle. 

View back down to the Aorere Valley from near Pt. 435

A small slip next to the Heaphy Track

There are a number of bench seats scattered right along the track and they tend to be spaced out about 2 hours apart so you can rest in between the various huts and shelters you pass. Apart from that it was just a case of grinding away for the first couple of hours to gain some distance and height...

Heaphy Track: there are seats scattered right along the track...

Windfallen tree over the Heaphy Track

Moss, lichen and ferns populate the track margins...Heaphy Track

The standard of track is good as you would expect on a Great Walk and it is mostly nice benched track for the first day. The track cannot be too steep or rough as it is used by as many cyclists now as trampers and they need to be able to climb the track on their bikes...

Typical track conditions on the climb to Aorere Shelter

The clouds were hanging low in the Aorere Valley

More open section near Shakespeare Flat turnoff

There is a side track about 2.5 hours in which branches off to Shakespeare Flat and the campsite next to the Aorere River. You might remember the name as this is the place those two people from Nelson got lost last year. The flats are about 2 kilometers away and takes about 45 minutes to walk down to them...

Junction of Heaphy Track and Shakespeare Flat Track

I stopped near the track junction for lunch as it was about 11.20 by that time and I had not had anything to eat since breakfast at 5.30 that morning. I had crackers, Baby Bell cheese and salami sticks on this trip...the good old standards. 

Lunchtime sitting near the Shakespeare Track

Continuing along the Heaphy Track after lunch

Past the Shakespeare Flat turn off you head around to the other side of the ridge you are climbing with some good views down into Beecham Creek. On a sunny day you would need a hat on as this section is out in the sun for about the next 30-40 minutes...

The water is clean from all these small creeks...Heaphy Track

It was a muggy overcast day on the Wednesday and I got a bit hot climbing up the track in temperatures in the low 20's. You could see for a distance from the open places in the forest but the views were very local as the clouds blocked out the views to the distant coast you normally have...

Looking down into the Beechum Creek area, Heaphy Track

Dracophyllum Tree along the Heaphy Track

One of the numerous small streams along the Heaphy Track

Bluffs alongside the Heaphy Track

As I got closer to Aorere Shelter it got a bit cooler and the low cloud had drifted down and settled over the forest so that I was walking through thick mist. I saw very few people along the track so it was a bit eyry waking along with the sounds of the forest amplified by the clouds...

Misty cloud descends over the forest...Heaphy Track

There is a bench seat close to Aorere Shelter with the last cell cover for the next three days so I sent Karen a couple of quick shots of the misty forest and checked the weather forecast for the next couple of days. The next place your phone will work is right at the extreme edge of Heaphy Beach about 40 kilometers and three days away...

There is cell reception at this seat...Heaphy Track

Looking down to Shakespeare Flats from the Heaphy Track

Rocky section of the Heaphy Track near Aorere Shelter

...interesting rock strata along the Heaphy Track...

I got overtaken by a group of young women just before Aorere Shelter and we kept leap frogging past each other for the rest of the afternoon. 

I was overtaken by all the fit young things on the uphill...

Crazy shape of a juvenile Dracophyllum Tree

Heaphy Track is covered with Dracophyllum leaves...

I eventually arrived at Aorere Shelter after walking for about four hours...it was great to see it come looming out of the mist. The shelter is located next to the Aorere Campsite and it is a three sided open structure with benches inside, water tanks and a set of flushing toilets. There are picnic tables here to eat at and a nice bench seat right around the outside of the shelter. 

First view of Aorere Shelter through the mist

Aorere Shelter (1984), Kahurangi NP

I didn't stay for long as the sandflies are hungry there...just long enough to replenish my water, eat a snack and have a look at the map. Then I set off along the last five kilometers of the track to Perry Saddle. 

Interior of Aorere Shelter, Heaphy Track

Water source and sinks at Aorere Shelter

The Heaphy Track continues uphill from right next to the shelter...it is five kilometers from here to Perry Saddle Hut. Half the distance is uphill to Flanagan's Corner and the last two km's downhill to the hut. The DOC sign tells you it is one hour walking and it is fairly correct as it took me about 1 hour and 10 minutes to walk to Perry Saddle Hut. That is fast travel over five kilometers...

The Heaphy Track continues past Aorere Shelter...

...it is 5 kilometers from the shelter to Perry Saddle Hut...

The track from Aorere Shelter to Flanagan's Corner is a lot less steep than further back along the track and I made excellent time even with my tired legs. The track was rougher with extensive areas of rocky terrain and places where the track has obviously been blasted from the rock. There were a couple of slips along here as the area gets pummeled by every big storm that blows in off the Tasman Sea. 

From Aorere Shelter the track starts off gently...

...before getting rocky and steep further along...

View down to the Aorere River from a slip....

After 30 odd minutes Flanagan's Corner hove into view...there is a side track here to a lookout with views of the Aorere Valley and further into Kahurangi NP. It was cloudy near the Corner so I did not go up to the Lookout...I have been there before and the cloud meant there was nothing to see...as confirmed to me by the group of women later at the hut!!!

Flanagan's Corner comes into view...Heaphy Track

There is a viewpoint near Flanagans Corner...

Jon grimacing at the Flanagan's Corner track junction...

Descending sharply down to Perry Saddle Hut

I stopped for a five minute break here and then shouldered my gear and started the short and steep descent down to Perry Saddle Hut. It is all downhill for the last two kilometers which was a blessed relief after walking uphill for most of the day. 

...the track is all downhill from Flanagan's Corner to the hut...

Before long you pass the one kilometer marker and you are on the home stretch of your walk for that day. Just past the pole is an opening in the forest canopy and you can look across and down on Perry Saddle. The hut is very obvious as it is tucked into the bush on this side of the saddle in a small clearing... 

The one kilometer post for Perry Saddle Hut

First view of Perry Saddle and the hut...Heaphy Track

A stream 200 meters from Perry Saddle Hut

Finally the Perry Saddle Hut came into view and I had completed the first and hardest day of the Heaphy Track. 

The end of the road...I arrive at Perry Saddle Hut!!!

Man...was I glad when Perry Saddle Hut hove into view...I was tired after that 18 kilometer and 5+ hour walking day. The track up to Perry Saddle is not overly steep but it is a unrelenting climb for all of the day. Make sure you get some training in before you arrive folks...and keep hydrated!!!

At Perry Saddle Hut:

Perry Saddle Hut was built in 2012 to replace the older hut on this location which I visited way back in 1988. This was my 178th DOC hut and my 328th backcountry hut or shelter overall. It is a lot flasher than the old hut that I remember and typical of the new breed of modern Great Walk huts. They are generally comfortable and warm huts with plenty of space and better attention to detail than older examples.  

Perry Saddle Hut (2012), Kahurangi NP

When I was here in 1988 we got dropped off by a RNZAF Iroquois helicopter and after 10 minutes sorting our gear out we set off for Saxon Hut. Not much time to enjoy the scenery!

Sign on the outside of Perry Saddle Hut

Perry Saddle Hut is a 28 bunker sitting in a basin between a number of ridges and it is a sunny, airy spot for a hut. We were about 2/3 full that night so there were somewhere between 18 and 20 people in the building. I arrived just before 4 pm and there were still people arriving as late as 7 pm that night. 

Kitchen and dining area in Perry Saddle Hut

Perry Saddle Hut: gas cookers in the hut

There are three bunkrooms separated off from the living space with two rooms with 10 bunks and one with 8 bunks. I was in Kaka Saddle which was the 8 bunker...I was in with a group of older ex DOC and NZFS guys revisiting the scene of old glories. One of the chaps had just recovered from cancer so they were out doing it before age and health stopped them walking a harder track like this. 

One of three bunkrooms in Perry Saddle Hut

I was in Kaka Saddle bunkroom, Perry Saddle Hut

All of the bunkrooms were named after areas in Kahurangi NP so we had Kaka Saddle, Perry Saddle and Dragons Teeth which are all accessible from the Heaphy Track. It was all trampers as the Great Walk MTB ride season had finished the previous week so no cyclists are coming until April 2022. 

Dragons Teeth and Perry Saddle were the other two bunkrooms

There is a veranda along the southern side of the hut with views back down to the Aorere Valley and the whole area is covered in low stunted sub alpine scrub which is about shoulder height. From the front of the hut you can see down the valley towards Gouland Downs and the next days route. 

Looking up to Mt Perry (1238) from Perry Saddle Hut

The route to Gouland Downs on day two, Heaphy Track

Day two was set to be a lot easier as I only had around 12 kilometers to cover to get to Saxon Hut where myself and the English couple were staying for the night. Everyone else was either walking down to Brown Hut or all the way to James Mackay Hut which was 21 kilometers or 7-9 hours away...

....its is 7 km's to Gouland Downs Hut...

View back down the Aorere Valley from Perry Saddle Hut

There were a lot of birds around the hut site including some cute as baby Weka but also Bellbirds, Kaka, Tui, Bush Wrens, Wood Pidgeon's, Ruru and Kiwi. You will also get an occasional visit from the Takahe at this hut but they tend to hang out around Gouland Down and Saxon Huts as they like the tussock land around those areas. 

There were lots of Weka around Perry Saddle Hut including this chick...

There is a campsite at Perry Saddle with platforms for around 6 tents and also a nifty campsite shelter with a sink, water, picnic tables and three sided cover. It would be a decent spot for the campers except for the voracious sandflies which live in massed squadrons right along the length of the Heaphy Track. 

Perry Saddle Campsite Shelter, Kahurangi NP

It was a nice atmosphere within the hut that night and I talked to a number of people about this and that. Most of the people were in larger groups of from 3-6 but there were a couple of other solo trampers and some couples in the hut as well. It was warm enough so we did not need to light the fire...the weather had been surprisingly mild right through the day. 

Track to the riverside Mountain Spa...cold..real cold!!!!

It was a good end to a long and tiring day and everyone in the hut including Jon were in bed before 9.30pm. Come back soon and see what happened over the next four days as I tramped from Perry Saddle along the Heaphy Track. 

Access: Getting to the track ends at either Brown River or Kohaihai is extremely difficult at this time. Covid has meant that many services are not available. See my post from earlier this year about planning a trip on the Heaphy Track for more detail....

Track Times: Brown River carpark to Brown Hut 10 minutes, Brown Hut to Aorere Shelter 4-5 hours, Aorere Shelter to Perry Saddle Hut 1-1.5 hours. Total track time of 5-6 hours on day one...
Hut Details: Brown Hut: Great Walk, 16 bunks, wood burner, woodshed (coal supplied), toilet, water from tank, Aorere Shelter: Shelter, cooking bench, picnic table, watertank, flush toilet;  Perry Saddle Hut: Great Walk, 28 bunks, watertank, wood burner, woodshed (coal supplied), flush toilet; Perry Saddle Campsite Shelter: Shelter, water from tap, cooking bench, picnic tables

Miscellaneous: All huts and campsites MUST be booked before starting the track. MTB riders from April to October. There are several rivers and creeks to cross enroute and some may be difficult or impossible in very heavy rain. 

You Tube link: Brown Hut to Perry Saddle Hut