Historic Huts: Jacks Hut in Arthurs Pass NP

Historic Jacks Hut...

When Karen and I were in Arthurs Pass we went and visited Jacks Hut on State Highway 73 mid way between Arthurs Pass and Arthurs Pass Village. The hut has occupied its current location since the 1910's but it was originally a Roadman's hut located elsewhere. 

Jacks Hut in Arthurs Pass National Park

Over the years it has served as a Roadman's hut, emergency shelter, research hut, artist retreat, personal crib/bach and is now a historic hut in the conservation estate.

A potted history of Jacks Hut:

  The hut was built in 1879 and was originally located near Rough Creek and was used by the Roadmen who maintained the stage coach route over Arthurs Pass. Roadmen each had a 10 mile stretch of road to maintain from Springfield to Jackson on the Taramakau River. 

Information panel about the roadmen in Jacks Hut

The men spent their time clearing the road, fixing potholes and maintaining the bridges. Their tools were the pick, axe, shovel and wheel barrow and the job was hard, lonely and dangerous. Life would have been tough especially during the brutal winters you can get in this alpine environment. 

Jacks Hut in its original location at Rough Creek

There are similar original roadman huts at Porters Pass, Castle Rock Station and near Cass but all the others have been removed over the years. The roadmen plied their trade right up to the 1930's when the role was taken over by heavy machinery based in Springfield, Arthurs Pass and Otira. 

Porters Pass Roadman's Hut...SH 73 near the Kowhai River

In the early 1900's the hut was briefly used as an emergency shelter before passing into private hands. It was moved to its current location in 1910 and was used as a personal bach/crib/mountain retreat from that time onwards.

There used to be a small shed next to Jacks Hut

The last owners of the bach were the Butler family who owned it from the 1920's right up to the early 2000's. They used the hut as a holiday home and as a permanent residence over that time. 

Information about the past owners of Jacks Hut

 FYI...there is a worthwhile book about Jack's Hut written by the daughter of Grace and Guy Butler. It is simply called Jack's Hut and was written and published in 1968 by Grace Butler Adams. I have a copy in my personal library and it is an excellent read...

Jack's Hut by Grace Butler Adams

When the last of the original Butler family (Grace Butler Adams) passed away in the early 2000's the hut was donated to the people of New Zealand and incorporated into the Department of Conservation estate.

Mt Rolleston from Jacks Hut

Wider view of Mt Rolleston from Jacks Hut

The hut was restored in the 2004 by DOC and the Historic Places Trust and will now be maintained in perpetuity as a historic hut. 

Approaching Jacks Hut...

Jacks Hut sits on the Arthurs Pass Walking Track and this is one of the main ways people will approach the hut. The Walking Track goes right past the hut as it bisects SH73 mid way between the Village and Arthurs Pass. If you are walking uphill it appears through the forest as you wind down to cross the highway. 

View of Jacks Hut from the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

If you are heading downhill towards the village it is clearly visible as you cross SH73 between the Bealey River side of the Walking Track and the section down to the Bealey River footbridge. 

Jacks Hut as seen from the Bealey Chasm side of SH73

You can also park at the Bealey Valley Track carpark and walk across the road to investigate the hut. The carpark is the starting point for the upper section of the Arthurs Pass Walking Track and the side track to the Bealey Valley Track and Bealey Chasm start near here. 

Bealey Valley Track carpark on SH73...Arthurs Pass NP

The hut is set slightly back from the road and is surrounded on three sides by thick Beech forest. To the front is a flat area of grass down to the edge of the road. The hut has been painted many colors over the years but has been in an attractive green/white livery for the last 20 odd years. 

Front of Jacks Hut from SH73 in Arthurs Pass NP

Jacks Hut is permanently locked to prevent vandalism

The hut consists of an enclosed porch/veranda/sunroom at the front with a large central living space, two bunkrooms, a kitchen and mudroom behind. Back when it was used as a personal bach it could hold up to eight people in some what cramped conditions. 

..Jacks Hut is clad in good olde corrugated iron...

Jacks Hut: the kitchen is at the back of the hut

Jacks Hut...the western side of the hut

When the hut was used as a bach it had a toilet to the rear and a water from a nearby stream but both were removed when the hut passed back into DOC control as they were not part of the original design. I remember a small shed to the eastern side of the hut used to house cars, tools and wood etc. and this was also removed when the hut was restored. 

Jacks Hut is part of the conservation estate

The interior of the hut as seen through through the windows is very Spartan...it was a wood lined building with a low vaulted ceiling. There is a centrally located fireplace on the eastern side of the hut which provided heat for the whole building. I remember there being furniture in the hut when it was still owned by the Butler family and it was only removed when it was renovated in the 2010's.

Jacks Hut: interior of the hut....front room

There are now a series of information panels in the veranda at the front of the hut which explains the whole history of the hut. While the hut is locked you can get an idea of how it was used by peering in the windows and you can see what an excellent job DOC did when they restored it. 

Interpretative panel inside Jacks Hut 

I would have first visited the hut in my primary school days as most of the schools in Christchurch used to bring classes up here to experience a National Park. I have visited the hut many times since then and I think I have probably been to the hut over 30 times making it my most visited backcountry hut in New Zealand. 

Jacks Hut...long may it exist!!!

Jacks Hut is an important part of the history of early transportation, settlement and outdoor pursuits in  Arthurs Pass. Here's hoping it will continue to intrigue passers by for many years to come. 

Access: Jacks Hut is located on the east side of SH73, about 5 km towards the West Coast from Arthurs Pass Village. It is on the route of the Arthurs Pass Walking Track which passes right by the front of the hut. 

Hut details: Jack's Hut, Historic, locked and no stay allowed

Miscellaneous: There is a car park on the opposite side of the highway accessible from the hut. The route to the Bealey Valley Track starts on the far side of SH73.

Bealey Valley Track: 28th April 2019

A damp stroll along the Bealey Valley track...

My partner Karen and I went up to Arthur's Pass for a couple of days in late April. We were hoping for some nice weather so we could do a couple of walks but unfortunately a front moved onto the South Island bringing rain with it. We still went and mostly sat in the bar at the Bealey Hotel with a drink in hand as we watched the rain outside. 

Bealey Hotel: accommodation block overlooking Bealey river bed

Bealey hotel: interior of one of the rooms at the hotel

We did get out for one walk, we went for a stroll up the Bealey Valley to the edge of the first clearing and then turned back to the car as it started raining cats and dogs...

DOC track sign at the beginning of the Bealey Valley Track

The Bealey River from the bridge over the Bealey Chasm

A walk in the rain, Bealey Valley style...

It was basically pouring with rain for most of the two days we spent in Arthur's Pass but taking advantage of a short break in the weather we drove up to the Bealey Valley Track and went for a walk over the river and up to the edge of the first clearing. 

Start of the Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass NP

Map: Upper Bealey Valley and surrounding area

We would have gone further but that is where the weather packed a sad and started snowing, sleeting and raining. We turned around and walked back to the car as it was really kind of miserable.

No dogs allowed in the Bealey Valley....it is a Kiwi Zone

As you can see the track and forest were wet but not yet flooded as it would have been later in the day after another biblical deluge. The short tracks in the park receive a lot of work so they are smooth, flat and have a nice gradient to them. 

Walking along the first flat section, Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

There are a number of steps and stair sections so this track is not suitable for wheelchairs and/or baby strollers, mobility scooters etc. 

Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass: the first set of stairs

Karen on the Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

After about 150 meters there is a track junction....if you continue straight on you will eventually arrive at the Arthur Dobson Memorial on the top of Arthur's Pass. The memorial is really for Edward Dobson and his two sons Arthur and George who all played a part in the rediscovery of the Pass.

The Dobson Memorial cairn at the apex of Arthurs Pass

The track to the Bealey Valley descends to the left down a series of stairs and eventually arrives at the bridge over the Bealey chasm. 

Near the track junction on the Bealy Valley, Arthur's Pass

The Bealey Chasm is a point where the river disappears under a series of massive boulders, it then reappears a bit further down the river bed. When I was younger there was no bridge at this point so if you wanted to get to the Upper Bealey Valley you had to cross the river. Thankfully DOC have built a rather lovely bridge across the river so it is now an all weather track. 

Karen crossing the bridge at the Bealey Chasm, Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

View up the Upper Bealey River from the bridge at the Bealey chasm

View down the Bealey River from the bridge at the Bealey Chasm

On the far side of the river is a short climb to a large swampy clearing with excellent views of the Bealey Valley, Mt Rolleston, Gouldney Ridge and Rome Ridge. Again, when I was younger there was a shallow tarn in the clearing but this seems to have filled itself in over the years.

Start of the climb past the Bealey Chasm bridge, Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

Karen walking up the Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

Moss and orange track markers...Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass: about to enter the first clearing

View towards Avalanche Peak from the Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

Looking west towards Otira from the Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

On the far side of the first clearing, Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

Looking towards Temple Valley Skiffed, Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

We walked over to the western edge of the clearing as we intended to keep going along the track. At this point the clouds once again descended and it started to rain, sleet and snow so we turned about and headed back towards the car park. 

If you continue along the path you will eventually reach the Bealey River again about two kilometres from the base of the Goldney Glacier. There are excellent views of he surrounding mountains from here and in summer you can follow the rough track up the true right of the river to the basin at the head of this valley.

The view from the end of the Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

Just be aware that this is a avalanche risk area with avalanche paths coming off all the high ground around the Bealey River. Do not go past the sign at the end of the track in Winter or Spring without first checking the avalanche risk. 

Avalanche warning by the end of the Bealey Valley Track

You just follow the same track back to the car park....down past the Bealey foot bridge, up the slope to the track and along the flats to the end of the track. For more information see my trip to the Bealey Valley back in 2018.

Bealey Chasm footbridge, Arthur's Pass

Boardwalk and stairs leading to the Bealey Chasm, Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

Climbing back to the Arthur's Pass Walking Track

Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass: the only long distance view of Bealey Valley

If you are in the area and still feeling energetic you can follow the Arthur's Pass walking Track for about two kilometers to the top of the pass to the West Coast. There is a memorial cairn to Arthur Dobson there and a very nice track around some alpine bogs and tarns that are worth a look. 

Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass: at the junction with the Arthur's Pass Walking Track

Heading back to the car park, Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

Typical old growth Beech forest, Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

Every time I walk past these glacial erratic rocks I wonder how many thousands of children must have climbed over them.......they look like they have rested here forever. the edges are all worn smooth from people's feet and hands.

A pile of glacial erratics alongside the Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

All up our trip took about 40 minutes return, add another hour onto that if you walk to the end of the track at the Bealey River Valley. It is a nice wee track, easy to walk, well marked and easily one of the nicest short walks in Arthur's Pass National Park.

Go have a look for yourself....

Jacks Hut, Arthur's Pass

I have visited Jacks Hut many times over the years as it sits on the direct path of a number of good walking tracks in the area. Originally a road-mans hut, it was moved to this location in the early 1910's and used as a holiday bach by the Butler family for many years. This was Karen's first visit to the hut so we had a bit of a look around. 

Jacks Hut in the 1920's when still a road mans hut

Sometime in the 1980's it was donated to the Department of Conservation and is maintained by them as a fine example of a historic private bach on national park land.

Jacks Hut: a view of the front of the hut

It is a very tidy three room house...the back room had a series of bunks while the other two rooms had a lounge area and kitchen/boot room. It is not available for use by the public anymore but is well worth a look for the simple type of construction used in this type of building.

There are some interpretive panels inside Jacks Hut

Jacks Hut...the rear of the hut, one of the rooms

A lot of colonial homes were clad with corrugated iron sheets, they were relatively light to ship, easy to cut and were very water proof. Houses, churches, shops and back-country huts were made using this material although few of them remain now. 

Detail of one of the sides of corrugated iron clad Jacks Hut

Jacks Hut sign at the front of the building

Jacks Hut lies on the path of the Arthur's Pass Walking Track from the village to the top of the pass. If you ever visit Arthur's Pass make sure you stop and have a look at this curiosity of our colonial past. The car park for the Bealey Valley track starts immediately opposite Jacks Hut. 

The car park for the Bealey Valley and Arthur's Pass Walking Track

SH73 looking towards Arthur's Pass Village

Here is a curiosity of history, this is one of the old mile markers that denoted the distances on the route between Springfield and Otira on the West Coast. They are now over 100 years old and it is amazing that any of them still exist. You will find these scattered up and down SH73 which more or less corresponds to the route of the old stage coach line. 

One of the mile markers from the old coach route to Otira and the West Coast

If you are ever driving between Christchurch and Hokitika/Greymouth look for these mile markers alongside the road. 

Access: Turn off SH 73 at the car-park opposite Jacks Hut, the track starts next to the car-park. The first 200 meters are on the Arthur's Pass Walking Track, then turn off onto the Bealey Valley Track

Track times: 30-40 minutes to the Upper Bealey River, then 30 minutes to the cirque under Goldney Ridge.

Hut Details: Jacks Hut (historic)

Miscellaneous: Avalanche and rock fall danger in the Upper Bealey Valley, do not go past the end of the track unless you have some avalanche awareness. No toilets at any point along this track.