" ...on the shores of Lake Rotoroa...there is much to see and do..."
I thought I would showcase the relative delights of Lake Rotoroa in Nelson Lakes National Park. Most people will know of or have visited the much more popular Lake Rotoiti but very few people realise there is another large lake in this National Park.
 |
| Turning off SH 6 into the Gowan Valley & Lake Rotoroa |
Lake Rotoroa used to be just as popular as Lake Rotoiti as a holiday destination but it has been left behind and is now very under developed and usually very, very quiet.
 |
| Arriving at Lake Rotoroa along Gowan Valley Road |
I think part of the problem is access...Lake Rotoiti is on SH65 between St Arnaud and Blenheim and is a major transport route. By comparison there is nothing at Lake Rotoroa except the lake and surrounding forests. You have to travel 12 kilometers off SH 6 to get to Lake Rotoroa and I think this is just to far for your casual visitor.
If you are here you really want to be here...!!!
 |
| Gowan River...outlet for Lake Rotoroa |
This is crazy of course as the lake is beautiful and there are several good short tracks, boating, a nice swimmable lake, fishing, possible MTB rides and camping to be had in the area.
Lake Rotoroa carpark...
There is not much at the western end of Lake Rotoroa...a small DOC campsite, half a dozen holiday homes, a carpark with day shelter and a dock for small boats. The carpark is going to be your staging place as it is central to all of the facilities and the lake itself.
 |
| Lake Rotoroa carpark was nearly empty |
There is parking here for 10-15 vehicles although the only vehicle there when I visited was a camper van.
 |
| The Lake Rotoroa dock is only 40 meters away |
 |
| DOC map of the tracks and huts accessible from Lake Rotoroa |
There is a small shelter here with the remains of a historic canoe used by the first European to live in the area. It was uncovered by a big storm on one of the nearby beaches after being buried for nearly 150 years.
 |
| Large grass area next to the Lake Rotoroa carpark |
 |
| ...it was flooded due to heavy rain that morning... |
There are several possible attractions at Lake Rotoroa so lets have a quick look at some of them...
Tracks and walks at Lake Rotoroa
There are a number of short and long walking /tramping tracks located around Lake Rotoroa. I have walked a couple of tracks here over the years...the Braeburn Walk and Nature Walk near the settlement for example. I have also tramped along the old Lake Rotoroa Track which used to go up the northern edge of the lake to Sabine Hut and the Travers-Sabine Circuit.
Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk:
The nature walk starts from the carpark at Lake Rotoroa settlement and loops through the forest for about 1.5 kilometers. At the carpark head across the grassed area towards the edge of the lake shore and follow the track markers...
 |
| Start of the Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk from the carpark |
 |
| You enter the forest at the edge of Lake Rotoroa |
There are plenty of orange DOC track markers along the Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk to keep you following the right path. The outline of the track is clear but the forest here is quite dense with a thick understory...
 |
| Jon just past the junction of the Nature Walk and Lake Rotoroa Route |
As you walk down to the Porika 4 W/D Track the beech trees give way to Podocarp forest with a mix of Kahikatea/Matai/Miro and Rata Trees. There were also a number of young Rimu growing...still small at less than 5 meters tall but eventually they will be as massive as the other trees in the area.
 |
| Large Red Beech Tree...Lake Rotoroa |
 |
| The Beech forest is more open...Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk |
All of these larger trees will be over 300 years of age...just coming to maturity for most Podocarp species. Some of the hardier trees like Red Beech, Rata and Rimu can live for much longer i.e 600-800 years.
 |
| Native Fuchsia Tree...Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk |
After about 25 minutes you will come to a rough 4 W/D road which joins onto the end of the Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk. This is the Porika Track...you turn left back towards the carpark and walk along the road.
 | ||
| I arrive at the Porika Track, Lake Rotoroa You eventually arrive at the Lake Rotoroa settlement where there are about ten private properties along the road. Most of these house are only occupied during holiday breaks...les than a dozen people live up this valley right through the year.
|
You pass through the settlement and past the campsite and then down an access road back to the lake front. All up the complete walk can be done in less than an hour.
Lake Rotoroa Route:
The Lake Rotoroa Track ran along the north-eastern side of the lake from Lake Rotoroa settlement to Sabine Hut.
 |
| The trail to Tiger country...Lake Rotoroa Route |
I walked along this track as part of an Army exercise back in 1989/1990 and it was an easy to follow track much like the Lakehead Track at Lake Rotoiti. The Lake Rotoroa Track was largely destroyed in a big storm about 6-7 years ago and never repaired. It is now overgrown with significant windfall and few markers...
 |
| Junction of Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk and Lake Rotoroa Route |
There is a sign across the route warning of the rough nature of the track which is very real. People should not venture further along this route without a full set of outdoor gear including a tent, PLB, navigation equipment, maps/compass and fantastic backcountry skills.
It probably sees less than 20 parties per year so be prepared for some hard work!
This is real Tiger country and very seldom visited so if you go along the Lake Rotoroa Route you will probably be totally on your own. Make sure you are prepared even on a day walk.
 |
| ...here there be Tyger's... |
Last year I give a ride to a trio of hitchhiking anglers who had tramped along the old Lake Rotoroa Route recently and they said that someone has been restoring it. It must be volunteers doing the work as DOC have abandoned the track.
Supposedly it is a bit rough in places but still usable so this might be a possible trip idea for some time in the future. More research would be required before I would head up that route...you could be landing yourself in a real world of hurt.
Braeburn Track:
The Braeburn Walk is a very nice 1.5-2 hour walk along the south shore of Lake Rotoroa to a waterfall at the end of the track. You then follow a loop track back to a point about halfway along the walk and from there back to the track end.
 |
| Start of the Braeburn Walk at Lake Rotoroa |
There is a small carparking area here just off Braeburn Track with a sign marking the start of the Braeburn Walk.
 |
| The Silver Surfer parked at the carpark on Braeburn Track |
The forest is mostly beech species with a smattering of podocarps like Kahikatea, Fuchsia, Rimu, Matai and Whitey Wood. The forest & understory is thick along the track as this basically pristine forest has been protected from human intervention.
 |
| Juvenile version of the Lancewood Tree |
The waterfall is not massive but it would be at least a 20 meter drop and there was quite a lot of water pumping over it the last time I visited.
 |
| The waterfall at the end of the Braeburn Walk |
You can view the falls from the track or you can try to climb down to the basin at the bottom and view them from ground level. The hillside you need to climb down is steep and as I was by myself the last time I visited I thought admiring it from a distance was safer than a fall and a broken leg...
 |
| Take care climbing down to the waterfall base...Braeburn Walk |
 |
| Dappled forest floor along the Braeburn Walk |
I thought this mini forest on this fallen tree trunk was uber cool...there were a variety of small trees, bushes, ferns and mosses growing along it....picturesque AF!!!
 |
| A whole miniature forest growing on a log...Braeburn Walk |
I really enjoyed this walk...the forest is beautiful and the track is a gentle walking surface which makes for an easy trip. The waterfall was interesting if not spectacular and you can take or leave that part of the track it if you are short of time. Spend some time sitting down by the Waterfall Stream...it was a lovely spot to contemplate life.
 |
| Braeburn Range from further down the Braeburn Track |
One note...the forest here is alive with introduced Wasps over summer and they can be aggressive so take the usual precautions like not touching the trees, don't walk off the track and carry antihistamines.
MTB rides...
There are no established MTB rides at Lake Rotoroa but there are a couple of backcountry tracks that can be used as MTB rides between the Matakitaki Valley, Lake Rotoroa and Lake Rotoiti.
Porika Track:
The Porika Track links Lake Rotoroa and the Howard River over the Muntz Range. There is a 4 W/D track which is gaining in popularity as a decent gravel road ride.
 |
| Map route of the Porika Track |
 |
| Porika Track heads over the Muntz Range |
It would be at least 20 kilometers between the two points and the track is rough, steep in places with unbridged river crossings but it would be a nice riding experience.
 |
| Lots of contour lines...steep as bro!!! |
If you could arrange transport to and from the track ends it would probably take less than half a day to cover the route. You would want to ride from the Howard River to Lake Rotoroa to take advantage of the terrain.
 |
| End of Porika Track at Lake Rotoroa |
If you were contemplating this you would need to do a LOT of research first to make sure it was safe. You would only attempt it in the late spring and summer as the track goes as high as 1100 meters and you could strike snow.
I have it on my 'to do' list.....
Braeburn Track:
In a similar vein the Braeburn Track links the Matakitaki Valley near Murchison with Lake Rotoroa over the Braeburn Range. This is another but slightly less rough 4 W/D track and would also be about 20 kilometers from end to end.
 |
| Map: Route of the Braeburn Track |
 |
| The Braeburn Track goes over the mountains to the Matakitaki Valley |
I have seen a vlog of a 4 W/D driving over here and it follows rivers for most of the way with pristine forest along both sides of the track. It starts from Gowan Valley Road and passes the entrance to the Braeburn Track on the way. You come out in the Tutaki River Valley from where you can head to Murchison along the Mangles Valley.
 |
| Braeburn Track goes past the Braeburn Falls Track |
Again transport would be needed at both ends of the ride or you could do a multi day circuit if you started in Murchison and rode back to the same. Note: this would require you to cycle along SH6 which might be illegal and would certainly be hairy as hell as it is tight, winding and busy.
Lake Rotoroa Settlement:
If you walk the Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk you will pop out next to the start of Lake Rotoroa settlement along Porika Track. There are about ten private properties along this road ranging from simple shacks to quite nice houses.
 |
| Start of Lake Rotoroa Settlement along Porika Track |
These are all holiday homes with only a couple being permanently occupied so they look a bit forlorn and overgrown.
 |
| Holiday homes at Lake Rotoroa Settlement |
There are a couple of nice houses here and one place with an attached small cottage you can book and stay in. It reminded me of a small eco house Karen and I stayed in at Hokitika a couple of years ago. Lake Rotoroa would probably get more visitors if it had a few decent accommodation options.
 |
| Some of the nicer houses at Lake Rotoroa Settlement |
 |
| This house has a eco bach to rent at Lake Rotoroa |
There is also a lodge at Lake Rotoroa but it has been closed since Covid rolled in as it catered for the well heeled tourist trade and will not reopen until they return...
 |
| Lake Rotoroa Lodge...closed since 2020 |
It would be an isolated place to live full time with less than a dozen permanent residents. If you lived here the "Big Smoke' would be either Murchison, Blenheim or Nelson all more than 50 kilometers away
Lake Rotoroa Campsite:
There is a small campsite at Lake Rotoroa with non powered sites available. It looks like it could hold about 10 tents at one time...or about 5-6 caravans/campers. Note...there are water taps at the campsite but no toilet. The only public toilet at Lake Rotoroa is down near the car-park.
 |
| Lake Rotoroa Campsite, Nelson Lakes NP |
It is probably only full over summer when people with motorboats come to visit the lake. If you had good bug netting or good fly screens on your camper then it would be a decent spot to spend a couple of nights.
 |
| ...room for about 10 tents at Lake Rotoroa Campsite... |
 |
| Lake Rotoroa Campsite sign |
The toilet for the campsite is down a short access road heading towards the lake front. It is open to the public year round and was clean and tidy when I visited.
 |
| The campsite/public toilet at Lake Rotoroa |
It is about 50 odd meters away from the campsite which would make late night toilet forays a bit exciting...
Along the shore of Lake Rotoroa:
As the lake is the focus for visits to this area you will find a number of points of interest there.
Peter Johansen's canoe:
As mentioned earlier there is a small shelter with the remains of a canoe used by one of the first Europeans to make Lake Rotoroa his home.
 |
| The shelter holding Peter Johansen's canoe |
Peter Johansen used the dugout canoe to move people around the area and to access his farm up near the D'Urville River. The canoe was thought long gone until it was discovered half buried in mud on one of the nearby beaches after a big storm.
 |
| Detail of the information panel...Lake Rotoroa |
The canoe was retrieved and put on display along the shore front as an important historical relic of the early settlers to this area.
 |
| Johansen had a farm in the D'Urville Valley |
 |
| More detail of Peter Johansen's canoe |
There is a DOC map and information panel nearby which shows you the various tracks, walks, huts and points of interest on this side of Nelson Lakes National Park.
 |
| DOC map at the Lake Rotoroa shoreline |
I kind of really feel this relic should be in a museum but which one? Even the Nelson Lakes DOC office is 30 odd kilometers away in St Arnaud. It is probably best displayed exactly where it is...
Lake Rotoroa dock and boat ramp:
Lake Rotoroa is the second of the big lakes in Nelson Lakes NP and it is actually far larger than Lake Rotoiti. It used to be quite a popular place for adventures into the Sabine and D'Urville Valley's but is a bit of a backwater now with few visitors. It is probably going to be one of the next places to face development as there is a lot of flat land with beautiful forest and a lovely lake at its center.
 |
| Lake Rotoroa from the dock |
There is a small boat ramp and a dock located next to the Lake Rotoroa carpark. Over the summer the water taxi runs scheduled and charter trips to various places up the lake such as Sabine Hut, and D'Urville Hut.
 |
| Boat ramp at Lake Rotoroa carpark |
From there you can walk up the Sabine River, D'Urville River and over the mountains to the Matakitaki Valley to spots such as Blue Lake, Moss Pass, Waiau Pass, Mole Tops, Mt Misery, Mt Cedric and Lake Angelus.
 |
| There is a sandy beach along the Lake Rotoroa shore |
The lake was a bowl carved out of the surrounding mountains by glacial action and is fringed by bush covered mountains which reach right along both sides of the lake. Some of them are as high as 1500 meters especially down by the Sabine River.
 |
| View south towards the saddle to the Matakitaki Valley |
On a warm sunny day the lake sparkles but I have also be here with a big Nor' Wester blowing through and it was covered by 2-3 meter high waves. The happy and sad face of a lake...
 |
| Lake Rotoroa is roughly twice the size of Lake Rotoiti |
 |
| Muntz Range from the Lake Rotoroa dock |
The area around the dock would be the best place to swim as the water is a bit deeper here just look out for those freshwater eels. I have seen examples down at the other end of the lake a couple of meters long and as thick as you thigh. Generally they will ignore you but it is unsettling to be swimming and feel one slither past your leg...
 |
| It was more than quiet at Lake Rotoroa |
The outlet stream for Lake Rotoroa is the Gowan River which ultimate empties into the Buller River. Your best view of it is from the bridge into the settlement but you can also see it from the far end of the dock.
 |
| Looking towards the lake outlet along the Gowan River |
 |
| Clear view to the eastern end of Lake Rotoroa |
Lake Rotoroa would be an awesome location for a kayak trip...up the lake to one of the distant DOC huts and back again over 2-3 days. You have a choice of Sabine Hut or D'Urville Hut both of which are nice places to stay. You could also find some lovely spots to haul out and camp on the northern side of the lake.
 |
| Distant view to the Sabine Valley from the dock |
There are trout and native fish in the lake and fishing is allowed here but check out the fishing rules at MPI before casting a line. There is a fishing season and catch limits so be aware of the rules or face a big fine.
 |
| The Lake Rotoroa day shelter from the dock |
My next visit will probably be on my next trip up to Kahurangi or Abel Tasman NP. I would be interested in walking up the Lake Rotoroa Route for awhile to see what kind of condition it is in. I have a trip to the Tablelands planned for the end of this year so I might be here some time in late October.
 |
| One final view of Lake Rotoroa |
Nelson Lakes National Park is much larger than just the area around St Arnaud. If you only ever visit the northern part of the park at Lake Rotoiti you are missing out on some awesome experiences....get thee there young ones!!!
Access: Turn off SH 6 at Gowanbridge and follow Gowan Valley Road for 11 kilometers to the start of Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk and Nelson Lakes National Park.
Track Times: Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk is approximately 1.5 kilometers or 25-40 minutes along a forest loop track.
Miscellaneous: There is a toilet and day shelter at the Lake Rotoroa carpark. Be prepared to fight off massive swarms of voracious sandflies. Do not follow the Lake Rotoroa Route to the Sabine Valley without suitable equipment and experience.
