Winter Series 2022: Pororari River-Punakaiki River Loop

Jon covers some new track at Punakaiki 

Most of the walks Karen and I did while in Punakaiki were short....usually less than an hour return and concentrated along the coastline. I went for one much longer tramp up the Pororari River to the junction of the Paparoa Track and the Inland Pack Track. From there I went up and over the saddle to the Punakaiki River. This is known as the Pororari-Punakaiki Loop.

Pororari River Valley...limestone bluffs and thick forest

The Pororari river runs next to the track most of the way

The Pororari River Track is to Great Walk standard as this is also the pedestrian exit for people walking the Paparoa Great Walk. The track up and over to the Punakaiki River is the MTB track which is also built to a high standard. 

Maori entrance gate marking the start of the Paparoa Great Walk

The Pororari River Track starts at the car-park next to the Pororari River bridge on SH6 opposite the Punakaiki Beach Camp. It is about 3 kilometers or 1-1.5 hours walking up the river to get to the swing-bridge which crosses the Pororari River. Close to the bridge is a turn off which goes up and over a saddle to the Punakaiki River south of the Pororari River Valley. 

The car park off SH6 at the Pororari Road Bridge

There is a information kiosk at the start of the track with information about all the various tracks which start from this place. These include the Paparoa Great Walk, Pororari River Track, Inland Pack Track, Cave Creek Resurgence, Mt Bovis Route and the Punakaiki-Pororari River-Waikori Road circuit track.

To start I was heading for the swing-bridge at the junction of the Paparoa Track-Inland Pack Track junction just past the Pororari River Gorge.

Information kiosk...Pororari River Track

Start of the the Pororari River Track

The track is mostly flat with some very minor undulations...it follows the course of the Pororari River and in fact you have it in sight for a good 90% of the time you are walking. The track can become flooded in heavy rain as it is close to the river in a number of spots but for the most part it would be 10-20 meters away from the river and slightly elevated.

...old farmland at the start..Pororari River Track...

The Paparoa Track only opened in 2019 and has already garnered a reputation as one of the best of the Great Walk tracks. I walked the Paparoa Track back in late 2020 and I can confirm it is an awesome walk. The Pororari River Track is long established..it has been here for several decades but was significantly upgraded when it achieved Great Walk status.

Epiphytes cover a knurled Totara Tree...Pororari River Track

It really is a beautiful valley...there are huge soaring limestone bluffs on both sides with dense native forest occupying all of the land between them. It has a mixture of podocarp species as well as the ubiquitous Nikau Palms, flaxes, grasses and thick dense undergrowth.

The Pororari River is about 30 meters wide through most of its length and is relatively shallow with either rocks, sand or small gravel in the river bed. There are a number of access points along the track where you can get close for swimming, photographs or just to admire it. 

You have many excellent views of the Pororari River

Jon on the Pororari River Track

I made good time up the track on the lovely track surface...it is fine gravel and sand and is that standard 1.5 meters wide track you get on all Great Walks. There were few people around and I only saw three the whole way up to the Pororari River Swing Bridge. 

Massive Totara next to Pororari River

There are a couple of rest stops on the Pororari River Track

Nikau Palms are interspaced along the Pororari River Track

There are a profusion of big boulders along the side of this track and in the Pororari River. I imagine they have fallen off the bluffs in times pass. Most of them are covered in moss or some small life-form. Some of the ones in the river are the size of houses so I'm glad I wasn't here when they tumbled down off the nearby cliffs...

Huge rock chonk in the Pororari River

You are travelling west to east up this river and as you get further along the track the gorge gets tighter and tighter. At its mouth the Pororari River Valley would be nearly a kilometer wide but when you get to the middle of the gorge (after 40 minutes) it is only a hundred meters wide at most. The valley opens up again near the swing-bridge.....

The West Coast is wet...lots and lots of rain mean there are numerous bridges along the track. Most of these are small...only a few meters long but some are larger as they pass over side streams and impassable sections of the gorge. Here is an example in the photos below...

There are many bridges along the Pororari River Track

There is a new active slip about 25-30 minutes walk up the valley you need to take care crossing. The slip face starts right up on the edge of the limestone bluffs and goes all the way down to the river. Don't stop when crossing here as further debris could come down the slip chute at any time. 

Pororari River Track...a new slip on the track

Debris field above the Pororari River Track

There is a nice set of stone steps leading up to the entrance to the small cavern the track goes through...I think they are lovely and totally fit in with the surrounding forest. 

Climbing up and over the Pororari River Gorge

About 45 minutes into the tramp you will come to a subterranean cavern where the track has been routed through a gap under a couple of house sized boulders. It is a bit eerie as it looks like you are climbing into the bowels of the earth as you approach and nobody wants to do that if they can help it. 

Steps down into cavern...Pororari River Track

There is a space large enough to stand in

There are sets of stairs inside which led down to the track again...it is an awesome wee trick and one of the highlights of this track. Given how safety conscious the local DOC office is I am surprised they didn't just blow it to bits to clear the way....

View up to the entrance to cavern...Pororari River Track

Pororari River Track...emerging from the cavern

When you approach the eastern end of the track it climbs up the side of the valley and sidles along under the bluffs as there is no space for a track closer to the river. 

Closing in on the end of the Pororari River Track

Pororari River Track...this section occasionally floods

You will know when you are closing in on the swing bridge because the bluffs on the true right of the river start to descend. There is a large flat plateau near the swing-bridge which was once farmed but is now reverting to forest. It is about 10-15 minutes walk from this point to the end of the Pororari River Track and the start of the Inland Pack Track to the Fox River. 

Flat ground at end of Pororari River Track

There is an active slip zone about 50 minutes up the Pororari River Track where a section of the hillside is slowly sinking into the river. It was clear on the day I visited but it has been fenced off for safety and DOC monitor the track to ensure it is safe to use. 

If you get to this point and there is a slip turn around and go back to the start of the track as it will be too dangerous to cross and it is so steep that there is no safe way to circumvent the area...

The fenced of slip zone...Pororari River Track

Pororari River Track...crossing a larger side stream

You climb up a series of stairs to gain a higher river terrace as the gorge comes in close on this side of the valley making a river side track impossible...

Pororari River Track...stairs to the higher terrace

There are a set of gates on the Pororari River Track at its junction with the Inland Pack Track to Waikori Road. This is to stop MTB riders trying to ride down the Pororari River Track and damaging it or colliding with trampers. 

Gates on Pororari River Track to stop MTB riders

This is for walkers only...Pororari River Track

MTB riders on the Paparoa Track are meant to follow the Inland Pack Track and it has been upgraded along here to allow them an easier riding experience. They have smoothed out the gradient and turned it into a true single track.

The Paparoa Track is a dual use track and both MTB riders and walkers are able to use it at all times of the year. I imagine it is a gnarly ride as it is a Grade 4 or expert level track which means some big hill climbs, steep downhills and places where you can easily dead yourself. 

Start of Inland Pack Track to Punakaiki River

The forest around the swing bridge has taken a real beating at some time in the past...most of the trees have fallen over so the canopy is thin and open. Ex Cyclone Ita battered this whole coast back in 2014 and did a significant amount of damage. It is slowly recovering and changes every time I come up this valley.

Pororari River Track...safety barriers to prevent falls

The Pororari River swing bridge hove into view after 1 hour and 10 minutes of walking up the river. The swing bridge takes trampers over the Pororari River and onto the Inland Pack Track. The Inland Pack Track is a two day tramp from the mouth of the Punakaiki River to the mouth of the Fox River about 15 kilometers north of Punakaiki.

The Pororari River Bridge...end of the Pororari River Track

From here you are on the Paparoa Great Walk

Before the coastal road was built this was how people got along this difficult coast-line by going around the back of the worst bluffs and headlands. If you walk the track you get to camp at the well known Ballroom Overhang a massive cave like area near the Fox River. I am planning to come over to Punakaiki to walk the track sometime over the 2022/2023 tramping season. 

Crossing to the true right of the Pororari River

If you continue along the track past the swing bridge you are on the Paparoa Great Walk Track. The first hut is another 4 hours up the valley but there is a very nice suspension bridge about 300 meters up the track that is worth visiting if you have the time. 

...Pororari Hut is four hours from this point...

The area up river from the bridge is typical of the surrounding terrain...it is mostly flat with slightly raised river terraces covered with thick forest. The Paparoa Track continues off to the east along the Pororari River before climbing up into the main Paparoa Range about 10 km's distant.

...Mid Pororari Bridge is only 300 meters upriver...

I crossed over the Pororari Bridge to the other side of the river and had a snack while I took some videos and photographs. 

A full Pororari River upstream of the swing bridge

It is flat ground on the true right of the Pororari River and I am sure you could find a viable camping spot near here if you wanted to camp out for the night. You just have to stay clear of the Great Walk Track as there is a no camping allowed 200 meters either side of those tracks. 

View from the true right of the Pororari River

Pororari River Bridge has a solid walking platform

When the river level is low you can sit down on the gravel riverbed and look at the bridge and nearby river from another angle. 

Pororari River downstream of the bridge, Paparoa NP

Crossing back to the Pororari River Track, Paparoa NP

The new track built for the Paparoa Track ends at the Pororairi River Bridge...past here is historic track which is part of the Inland Pack Track. The Pororari River Track is lovely and should be a must do activity for anyone visiting Punakaiki for a holiday. It only takes 1.5 hours return and is well within most people's abilities.

Pororari River Track...heading back to the Inland Pack Track

Looking down to a shady Pororari River

A short distance back down the track you will reach the track junction for the Inland Pack Track and the Pororari River Track. Paparoa Track walkers continue down along the river but MTB riders climb up and over a saddle to the track end at the Punakaiki River mouth. There is a stile here to stop the riders going down the river as there are several places where the track is impassable to bikes. 

Inland Track to the Punakaiki River:

I walked the historic Inland Pack Track from the Punakaiki River to the Pororari River back in the late 1990's. The original track is steep, rough as guts and prone to washouts so it was not an easy track to walk along. When the Paparoa GW Track was built DOC constructed a new track between the two rivers and optimized it for MTB riders. 

Most of this track was therefore virgin territory for me...

Junction of Pororari River Track and Inland Pack Track

The new track is lovely and a real pleasure to walk along as has a nice gradient, is well constructed and flows up and over the saddle near Pt. 234. It is the second part of the Pororari-Punakaiki River Loop. 

Map: Pororari-Punakaiki River Loop

The new track starts from the junction of the Pororari River Track and the Inland Track. To start with it is flat as you make your way across an old river terrace. The track is wide and well constructed through here with bridges over all the side streams and quite a bit of boardwalk over swampy areas. 

Start of the Inland Pack Track to Punakaiki River

Inland Pack Track...flat at the start

Dense Podocarp forest along the Inland Pack Track

This first section is constructed on the remains of the historic Inland Pack Track that was first used from 1867 onwards. The new MTB track has been laid over the old track and for the most part follows the line of that older track. 

Inland Pack Track...plenty of curves and turns for the MTB's

The forest through here is mixed Podocarp and Lowland with the same mix of trees and undergrowth you will find right along the coast around Punakaiki. There were some big Matai, Kahikatea, Totara and Rimu trees and they got larger the further away from the river you climbed. 

Moss growing along the Inland Pack Track

There are extensive boardwalks on the Inland Pack Track

Prior to the coastal road being built in the 1930's it was next to impossible to make your way from Barrytown to the Fox River. There were steep cliffs, rivers and rough terrain to cross if you followed the coast. To get around this terrain a track was built through some flatter terrain inland from the coast and this became the Inland Pack Track. The track was a bullock track so was wide enough for carts and this can be seen in the still existent sections of track you pass.

Historic (1867) section of the Inland Pack Track

  If you decide to follow the old track be aware that it is nothing like the new Great Walk. It is rough, muddy, steep, wind blown and has few bridges...

I would not follow these sections in rain or after a big storm as you will find unbridged side streams you will not be able to cross. In warm dry summer weather then have at it as it is an interesting change from the comfortable MTB track. 

Historic (1867) section of the Inland Pack Track

The Inland Pack Track was in use from 1867 to the 1930's and was only supplemented after SH6 came into existence. It was still used as a walking track and stock track but its role as main transport route had ended. 

Climbing to the apex of the Inland Pack Track

The new track slowly climbs from the river to a low saddle between Pt. 234 and Pt. 305 between the Pororari and Punakaiki Rivers. Once you start climbing it is a series of switchbacks which makes for much easier walking that your typical straight up the slope DOC track. MTB tracks are made this way as a very steep slope stops riders from peddling up the track...it has to be an easy gradient. 

The Inland Pack Track is maximised for bikes

Generally gentle climbing on the Inland Pack Track

Crossing a stream along the Inland Pack Track

This track is really for the MTB riders so if you are walking it it is up to you to get out of the way of them. It is going to be easier for the walker to jump off the track than someone hurling downhill on a MTB. Keep your wits about you and have an ear listening for the sound of approaching bikes at all times. 

Warning sign for MTB riders...Inland Pack Track

Inland Pack Track...Nikau Palms along the track

The historic Inland Pack Track reminds me of tracks I have walked in old mining/forestry areas in Tasman District, Oxford Forest and down on Rakuira. They are generally a benched track with a hard rock or gravel surface and will be around 1.5 meters wide. Walking on tracks like this can be hard on the feet...

Top end of historic Inland Pack Track section

Good walking conditions...Inland Pack Track

Views from the Inland Pack Track are limited due to the thick forest and lack of canopy windows but there is a good view near the apex of the track down into the Pororari River Valley. You can see as far as Bullock Creek and the open paddocks around Cave Creek. 

View down towards Bullock Creek from Inland Pack Track

Small waterfall on the Inland Pack Track

Eventually you arrive at the apex of the track on a low saddle near Pt. 234. I stopped here just off the track and had a well deserved rest break, food and some water. While I was sitting here an approaching family group spooked a Red Deer which ran past me and crashed off into the forest. It must have been quietly hiding within a couple of meters of me and I didn't even see it....

Apex of the Inland Pack Track near Pt. 234

Jon at the apex of the Inland Pack Track

After 10 minutes I started off down towards the Punakaiki River which runs about a kilometer down the track and below me. The track on the Punakaiki side is much steeper as it is built on a part of the historic track but this leveled out once I got down the track a piece... 

Inland Pack Track...downhill to the Punakaiki River

There is another original track section from just below the apex of the track right down to the edge of the river flats way below me. Again this track is not like the new MTB track as it is rough and steep so consider your actions before setting off down it. 

Another historic (1867) section of the Inland Pack Track

...the historic Inland Pack Track is steep...

The new track heads downhill in a series of gracefully curves and switchback sections. I bet it is an awesome downhill run on a MTB...I could be tempted!!!

Inland Pack Track...nice new track

The Inland Pack Track is benched most of the way

Further down the track you will pass a viewpoint where you can see down to the Waikori Road and Pt. 241 which rises above the mouth of the Punakaiki River. 

Pt. 241 from the Inland Pack Track

Almost rain forest along the Inland Pack Track

 Inland Pack Track...there are frequent warning signs...

You will strike some different track markers on the Paparoa Track.  They look like the normal DOC snow poles but the orange sleeves on the top have a large black exclamation mark on them. They signify either a danger zone (rock fall area/drop off/steep track) or a river crossing. The one in the photo below noted a narrow crossing over a culvert with deep ditches on either side.

 

Cautionary marker near steep drop off... Inland Pack Track

...lovely flow to that MTB track...

The section of historic Inland Pack Track from the 1860's ends just before you arrive on flat ground so when you pass it you are nearly at the end of the track. 

You can walk along the historic Inland Pack Track sections

There is a wide river flat between the track end and the Punakaiki River and you will be walking across flat terrain for about 10 minutes. The area must be wet on occasion as the track is elevated about half a meter above the surrounding forest. 

 Inland Pack Track...river flats towards end

Back on flat ground...Inland Pack Track

You can see the end of the Inland Pack Track from about 300 meters up the track and the distance is quickly covered.

The Inland Pack Track is a dual use track

Last section of the Inland Pack Track in Punakaiki River Valley

Punakaiki River end of the Inland Pack Track

There is a carved Maori portal at the end of the Inland Pack Track as there is at the other ends of the Paparoa Great Walk. There are two carved wooden pillars with a set of stiles nearby to keep cattle from walking up the track. It is a nice finish to an excellent walk...

Maori carved gateway...Inland Pack Track

4 W/D track to the Punakaiki river Bridge

From the end of the Inland Pack Track you follow an old 4 W/D track along the true right of the river down to the Punakaiki River Suspension Bridge. This takes you over the river to the Waikori Road and the way out to SH 6. 

Heading to the Punakaiki River Bridge

At one time the Punakaiki Suspension Bridge was one of the longest in New Zealand but I think it is now No. 4 or No. 5. It was recently pushed down the list by the new Hokitika Gorge Suspension Bridge which is now the longest in the country. 

Punakaiki River Bridge at Waikori

The swing bridge does just that...it swings around A LOT!!! It was a still day when I was there and even then is was swinging back in forth in the slight breeze enough to put my sense of balance off. I'm not sure I would want to be on it in a real wind storm...

Only12 years old...Punakaiki River Bridge

Punakaiki River Bridge...long bridge!

The Punakaiki River looked nice...it was quietly sparkling under the sun. It is very different to the Pororari River as it is wide, braided gravel and does not have those towering limestone cliffs. It looks like it would be nice for swimming in but unfortunately there is a cattle farm upstream so I would not dive into it.

Punakaiki River downstream from Punakaiki River Bridge

Punakaiki River upstream from Punakaiki River Bridge

 Punakaiki River Bridge from the true left

From the bridge you follow a gravel track out onto the Waikori Road and then walk out to the highway. It is 1.2 kilometers to the main road so the walk will take you from 20-30 minutes to complete. 

Heading to the Waikori Road and out to SH6

Turn off to Punakaiki River Bridge from Waikori Road

Waikori Road goes to the Punakaiki River Bridge

The Waikori Road car park is another starting point for the Pororari-Punakaiki River Loop and there is an information kiosk, bus shelter and toilets here. There is space for about 50 vehicles although I have never seen more than a handful here at any given time. 

Carpark at the end of Waikori Road

I was passed by two groups of MTB riders as I walked down to SH6...the group below had tramping/camping gear attached to their bikes so I think they were riding the Paparoa Track. 

MTB riders pass me along Waikori Road

I passed a small group of climbers as I made my way out to the highway. They were climbing the limestone cliffs out near the end of Waikori Road and they were using belay ropes on the bolted climbing routes there. If you are a climber there are a ton of good sites to visit here including these cliffs, up the Pororari River Valley and along Bullock Creek Road. 

Climbers on the cliffs along Waikori Road

There is a nice view back up the Punakaiki River Valley from the road bridge on SH6 that you have to cross on your way. There is a footpath on the bridge so it is safe to cross the bridge without dodging traffic. 

Punakaiki River from the Punakaiki Road Bridge

This completes the bush walking section of the Loop...from here you are following SH6. 

Punakaiki River to Punakaiki Settlement:

Once on SH6 it is just a case of walking back up to the entrance to the Pancake Rocks Reserve and then down to your start point near the Pororari River. There is a sidewalk from Waikori Road to Punakaiki Beach Resort then you have to walk along the side of busy SH6 to the shops opposite the Pancake Rocks. 

SH6 passes the Waikori Road enroute to Punakaiki

Punakaiki is in the Buller District

There is no footpath from the Punakaiki Beach Resort to Pancake Rocks and I recommend you walk on the ocean side of SH6 as the roadside is wider there. Eventually there is going to be a cycleway from Westport to Greymouth so there will be some kind of safe footpath you will be able to use. 

Walking along SH6 on the way towards the Pancake Rocks Reserve

Punakaiki shops are on the right hand side of SH6

There is a very nice cove between Punakaiki Beach Resort and Pancake Rocks and I stopped for awhile and watched the surf rolling in. It is lined on both side by Nikau Palms and Kiekie which makes it very photogenic...

Small cove just before Pancake Rocks from SH6

You could stop for some refreshments at the Pancake Rocks Café when you pass but I was having lunch with Karen at our motel so I just walked right by...

Pancake Rocks Cafe and Punakaiki Crafts

On the way to Punakaiki Settlement alongside SH6

Entrance to the Pancake Rocks Reserve

From the Pancake Rocks Reserve you walk down off Dolomite Point and along SH6 to Punakaiki Settlement. You pass by Punakaiki Cavern on the way which is on the inland side of SH6 and clearly sign posted. 

There is a sidewalk from the Pancake Rocks to the Pororari River

Punakaiki Settlement in the mid distance

Punakaiki Cavern is on the way to Punakaiki Settlement

We were staying at the Punakaiki Beach Motel so I walked along the seawall road to the back entrance to our accommodation. 

My holiday digs...Punakaiki Beach Motel

That was the end of my walk...all up it took me about four hours to walk the full circuit...three hours for the bush sections and about one hour to walk back to the motel from the Waikori Road. It is an excellent loop track and I can thoroughly recommend it to you. You can walk either direction but I think going clockwise makes better use of the terrain. 

Go give it try for yourself...

Access: The Paparoa Track/Pororari River Track car-park is just before the bridge over the Pororari River at Punakaiki on SH6. There is space here for approximately 40 cars. You can do this trip in the reverse direction starting at the Waikori Road car park next to the Punakaiki river.  

Track Times: The Pororari River Track is approximately 6 km's or 2-2.5 hours return from the car-park at Punakaiki. You can also follow the Inland Pack Track/Paparoa MTB Track to the car park at Waikori Road on the Punakaiki River. Pororari River to Waikori Road is approximately 3 km's or 1.5-2 hours. From here walk out to SH6 and back to your start point.

Miscellaneous: The Pororari River Track connects to the new Paparoa Great Walk near the Pororari River swing-bridge. There are no facilities along this track section. Camping is permitted once over the Pororari River swing-bridge although camping sites are few and far between. Water from the rivers must be filtered, boiled or treated. The Inland Pack Track to the Fox River and Ballroom Overhang starts at the Pororari swing-bridge.