Rakuira/Stewart Island Trip: a visit to Ulva Island

On Te Wharawhara/Ulva Island....

Karen and I went down to Rakuira/Stewart Island recently to walk the Rakuira Great Walk. We also spent a few days in and around Oban before and after the tramp so we used our time to take in some sights. One of the side trips we did was over to the Ulva Island Nature Reserve in Patterson Inlet on the southern side of Rakuira. 

A small cruise ship sits off Ulva Island in Patterson Inlet, Rakuira

Ulva Island is a native bird sanctuary on an island about 5 kilometers long by one kilometer wide and is home to most of the native birds you would once have found in many places around the coast of New Zealand. It is one of the only bird sanctuary islands that allow people to freely visit and you can get up and personal with birds like Kiwi, Weka, Kakariki, Saddleback and Riflemen. 

The main track junction on Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

There are a number of fine tracks to various beaches around the islands perimeter through thick low-land forest and some large podocarps. The tracks range in length from 30 minutes return to two hours return and give you a glimpse of what New Zealand must have looked like before people arrived here. 

Beautiful regenerating low land forest on Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

It was totally worth the $20 ticket and 20 minute boat ride to see some of the most iconic birds New Zealand has to offer....

From Oban village to Ulva Island

When I was planning the trip to Rakuira I deliberately give us a day before the tramp and a day after the tramp to explore Oban. Oban is the one and only settlement on Rakuira/Stewart Island with a permanent population of roughly 400. This may be the only time I ever get to Rakuira and I wanted to make sure we got our full value from the experience.

The Bluff to Oban Ferry arrives at Rakuira...

We jumped on the 9 am ferry sailing from Bluff to Oban and surprisingly we had a mirror calm ride across Foveaux Straits...at times one of the roughest sections of water in the world. We arrived at Oban by 10 am so we had the whole rest of the day to explore.

A very calm crossing of Foveaux Straits for Jon and Karen.....those are the Titi Islands....

Arriving at Oban at Stewart Island on the ferry from Bluff

Panoramic view of Oban from near the South Seas Hotel

We went to the Oban Four Square supermarket and got some drinks & tasty eats for lunch before we headed for Golden Bay. The supermarket had a excellent range of items in it although some of the prices raised an eyebrow or two....if you are coming down to Rakuira to tramp you could supply yourself from this shop. 

The Four Square Supermarket in Oban, Rakuira

Lovely fine weather we had on the day we arrived...high 20's, very little wind and piles of sunshine. I told Karen how unusual this was for Rakuira where it is usually overcast, wet and windy. 

View of Halfmoon Bay, Oban from in front of the South Seas Hotel

The ferry terminal at Oban, Halfmoon Bay Rakuira

The coastal strip 'downtown" in Oban, Rakuira/Stewart Island

There are a number of ways to get to Ulva Island the most direct and cheapest is on the Ulva Island Ferry from Golden Bay. The ferry goes at regular times during the day from 9am through to 4 pm...it costs $20 for a return ticket..no bookings required and you pay as you board the boat. 

From near the South Seas Hotel you follow Ayr Street up to Golden Bay Road and drop down to the Golden Bay wharf. It is about 1.2 kilometers half of it uphill but the walk is not overly strenuous....

Walking down to Golden Bay with a view of Patterson Inlet, Rakuira

Ulva Island visible in the distance, Rakuira

Map: Oban township, Rakuira/Stewart Island

On Golden Bay Road heading for the Ulva Island ferry terminal

The Ulva Island Ferry is an older motor vessel with space for about 20-30 people on board...on the sailing we went there were only eight of us on the boat. It took about 20 minutes for the vessel to make its way over to the island about three kilometers away in Patterson Inlet.

Is it a leaf off a Broadleaf Tree or....

...is it a ticket for the Ulva Island Ferry!!!!

There was a small cruise ship anchored off Ulva Island and we thought it might be busy when we got there. Luckily the IRB's from the cruise ship were just leaving with the last of the passengers so there were less than 20 of us on the whole island. 

The small cruise ship laying off Ulva Island, Rakuira

On the Ulva Island Ferry heading out of Golden Bay, Rakuira

The Ulva Island ferry at Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

The bush and native birds Ulva Island are famous are present as soon as you step off the boat onto the wharf....the forest comes right down to the waters edge. The beach near the wharf is golden sand which with the warm temperature reminded me strongly of Abel Tasman National Park at the other end of the South Island. I bet that water was cold though...

The wharf and beach at Ulva Island, Rakuira

DOC Rangers hut and old Post Office, Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

Bush track near beach on Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

There are a number of tracks on the island but we decided to walk over to Boulder Bay on the southern edge of the island. This is a nice 20-25 minute walk through low land forest inter-spaced with some impressive podocarp trees.

Map: Ulva Island, Patterson Inlet, Rakuira

DOC Ulva Island track information.....

The trees were mostly Totara and Matai but also some big Kahikatea and Rimu trees as well. The forest was wonderfully cool on such a warm day....

Typical low land forest growing at Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

Young Kahikatea Trees on Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

Karen on the boulder Beach Track, Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

The track is undulating on Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

We saw a large number of native birds while on the island including Pied Oyster Catchers, Tomtit, Weka, Belbirds, Tui, Motua, Yellowhead, Kakariki, Tui, Bush Robin. Kaka and Kakariki. To my great astonishment we also saw several Saddleback (5 different birds) and Riflemen neither of which I have ever seen in the wild before. It was absolutely amazing seeing them so close....

Native Bush Robin, Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

Native Saddleback, Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

Native Tomtit, Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

A Bush Robin who thought my boot might be food, Ulva Island

A Bush Robin who thought my boot lace might be food, Ulva Island

After a short 20 minute walk through the forest we popped out onto Boulder Beach...walking past a Saddleback sitting less than a meter from the track. We sat on a rock here and ate our lunch while being entertained by the antics of a couple of Weka who make the beach their home. 

Exiting onto Boulder Beach, Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

Weka staking a claim to Boulder Beach, Ulva Island

In the far distance you could see the outer islands of Stewart Island over Patterson Inlet and the other half of Rakuira off to the south of us. 

On Boulder Beach looking out into Patterson Inlet, Rakuira

DOC sign for Boulder Beach, Rakuira

Dense bush backing onto Boulder Beach, Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

This sleek looking dude joined us for luncheon...Boulder Beach, Ulva Island, Rakuira

After 30 minutes we set off for the wharf once more walking back along the track we had followed to get to the beach. It was really lovely in the forest listening to all the birdsong while the wind softly whistled through the trees.

Karen is watching Kakariki in the trees on Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira: A young tree fern...

There are a series of posts scattered along the track I believe they are part of a information brochure package you can buy from the DOC office in Oban. Each of the numbers corresponds to some point of interest on the track...a tree, a type of bird, some terrain feature..

Audio posts on Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira: there are a number of benches you can rest at..

An interesting type of Moss, Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

Regenerating low land forest on Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

We arrived back at the wharf and beach after about 20 minutes of walking...there was a ferry there waiting to take a group of  guided tour folk back to Rakuira and a smaller boat. The skipper of the smaller boat worked for the same water taxi company as the ferry and asked if we wanted to go back early. It had been a long day so of course we said yes and jumped aboard. 

The wharf at Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

Jon checks out the shelter at Ulva Island wharf...

We did not go direct back to Golden Bay as the boat had to collect a trio of snorkel divers from Glory Bay out on the tip of Rakuira. We motored out to the bay and collected the three guys who had been spear fishing in the area then we shot back to Golden Bay. It was awesome as you usually have to pay big dollars to get a boat ride out there and we got it for free.

In the boat motoring out to Glory Bay...Rakuira

Snorkel divers at Glory Bay, Patterson Inlet, Rakuira

We got back to Golden Bay wharf at least 40 minutes early which suited us just fine as we wanted to get back to our accommodation for the night at the South Seas Hotel.

Looking back to Glory Bay, Patterson Inlet, Rakuira

The Ulva Island Ferry wharf at Golden Bay, Patterson Inlet, Rakuira

It took us about 15 minutes to walk back to Oban over Golden Bay Road just in time to check in for the evening. We enjoyed a reviving ale in the bar as a celebration to an excellent start of our trip....

Jon walking back up Golden Bay Road to get to Oban

Dusk sets over the South Seas Hotel, Oban, Rakuira/Stewart Island

If you ever visit Rakuira/ Stewart Island you absolutely must visit Ulva Island regardless of what else you do. It was one of the highlights of the whole trip for both Karen and myself. When I go back to Rakuira I am going to schedule more time on Ulkva Island so I can walk down to the end of the island to get the full experience of this gem.  

Put a trip to the Deep South on your 'to do' list immediately.....

Access:  From Oban take Ayr Street up to Golden Bay Road & down to the wharf at Golden Bay. 

Track Times: It is 1.2 km's/ 20 minutes walk from the South Seas Hotel to Golden Bay. There are multiple tracks on Ulva Island ranging in time from 20 minutes return to 2 hours return. Our trip to Boulder Bay took 35 minutes return. 

Miscellaneous: The Ulva Island Ferry sails roughly every 1.5 hours and takes around 20 minutes to reach the island. There are toilets but no potable water on the island so take supplies with you. This is a bird sanctuary so respect their habitat and avoid getting too close.