Taking a boat cruise on Milford Sound....
My main reason for visiting Milford sound was to take a voyage on one of the cruise boats....I missed out when I walked the Milford Track as I had to catch a shuttle back to Te Anau as soon as I finished the track. It rankled me that I missed this opportunity so I decided that I would definitely go out on the Sound the next time I visited Fiordland.
 |
| View of Freshwater Basin and the cruise terminal from near the carpark |
 |
| Mitre Peak & Milford Sound from the breakwater.... |
The Lady Bowen was the vessel I was booked onto for my cruise..it is owned and operated by
Southern Discoveries which is the biggest of the cruise companies on the Sound. It is one of the older boats (built in 1987...refurbished in 2014) but it was really nice on board and its smaller size meant it did not feel too crowded.
 |
| Just about to board the Lady Bowen for my cruise... |
 |
| Looking towards Cemetery Point from the boat terminal, Milford |
The package I brought was a grab-a deal...normally it is around $90-$200 for a Milford Sound cruise but with Covid they have dropped the prices to get 'bums on seats'. I was on the Discover More Tour which normally costs $99...
 |
| Cruise types and prices for Southern Discoveries |
 |
| Map showing how you can get to Milford Sound... |
My deal was $60 for the cruise, a packed lunch and entry to the Milford Sound Underwater Observatory....Sweet!!!
Southern Discoveries boat cruising:
We left the dock at 1.30 pm and didn't get back to the terminal until 4.30 pm so we were out cruising for around three hours. It sounds like a long time but it went really quickly as there is just so much to see everywhere you look.
 |
| Bowen Falls (162 meters) from the Lady Bowen |
 |
| The Milford cruise terminal is dwarfed by nearby mountains... |
We passed the entrance to the Deepwater Basin and the Arthur River mouth as we left Milford...this is the way you come at the end of the Milford Track. The Milford Track water taxi is similar to those used up in the Abel Tasman NP and they run transport from Sandfly Point to Milford several times a day.
 |
| Mouth of the Arthur River and Deepwater Basin, Milford |
 |
| Mt Phillips towers over Milford settlement |
The scale of Milford Sound and the surrounding mountains is staggering. Everything is big...deep cold waters and bluffs soaring to the sky are the norm. Many of these mountains rise up to 1900 meters and higher with just as much depth under the water as Milford Sound is one of the deepest fiords in the world.
 |
| Looking to the top of Mitre Peak from Milford Sound |
 |
| Looking towards Mt Pembrooke from Milford Sound |
 |
| Massive waterfall path down the side of Mt Footstool, Milford Sound |
 |
| Choppy seas as we motor down Milford Sound |
 |
| It is a long way to the top of Mitre Peak from sea level... |
The cruise I was on goes right out to the open ocean if the weather conditions permit but this does mean choppier sea conditions. The further out into Milford Sound we got the rougher the water became. It was ok on this fine, warm & sunny day but I'm not sure I would want to be out here in a big storm...
 |
| Heading out to the mouth of Milford Sound |
 |
| ...you can see the high tide marks on these Milford Sound cliffs... |
 |
| Cascade Peak, Williamson Point and Harrison Cove, Milford Sound |
 |
| The Lion (1302 asl), Milford Sound |
Some of the bluffs and sea cliffs along the Sound are truly enormous...most are between 100-300 meters but there are a couple that are over 900 meters high. They are still sharply delineated even 20 000 years since the last ice age glacier filled Milford Sound. Plenty of evidence of other glacial action in view with U-shaped valleys, massive cirques and hanging valleys everywhere you look. The tiny glaciers that remain today are mere remnants.
 |
| Milford Sound: these bluffs are 300-400 meters high... |
 |
| Stirling Falls (151 meters) from Milford Sound |
 |
| Closer view of Stirling Falls...Milford Sound |
The Sound was quite busy (...not as busy as before Covid...) with half a dozen cruise ships out and a number of smaller cabin cruisers and motor boats. Not a patch on how busy it normally is...
 |
| Milford Sound: the lower flank of Mitre Peak |
The nicest looking ship here is the MV Milford Mariner which normally sits in Doubtful Sound to the south and provides high end accommodation for people visiting that Sound. It is being used as a Milford Sound cruiser during Covid...not enough rich tourists to maintain it in its former locale. It is a motor vessel but also has masts for sails with beautiful, graceful lines.
 |
| The bluffs on The Lion are 800 meters high... |
 |
| The MV Milford Mariner..... |
 |
| Milford Sound: our boat approaches the mouth of Milford Sound |
I tucked into my packed lunch around about this time and I have to say it wasn't bad. The lunch was part of the deal I purchased as well as entry to the Underwater Observatory and all for a grand total of $60. My lunch contained: a smoked chicken+salad fill wrap, a small packet of chips, an apple and a mandarin, a cheese and cracker pack, a small fruit juice packet, a large ANZAC biscuit, a Whitakers chocolate square and a Kit Kat. Comprehensive and good quality throughout.
It was tres bon eats for Jon.....
 |
| The clouds in the distance are at 1100 meters asl...Milford Sound |
There are complimentary hot drinks and water on the vessel...I probably drank 6-7 cups of tea. You can buy additional food and drinks including alcohol. They had an intriguing Spruce Beer that was first brewed here by Captain Cook in the 1760's. It is made by the Wigram Brewing Co. to an original 1760's recipe and uses Rimu tips and Manuka to flavor the beer.
 |
| Captain Cooks original Spruce Beer.... |
I brought a bottle in the Fresh-Choice supermarket in Te Anau when I got back...it was interesting. Sweet and slightly bitter but with a strong floral nose to it...it tasted good...give it a go if you ever see it on a menu.
 |
| Open ocean at the mouth of Milford Sound |
 |
| View up the West Coast of the South Island to Yates Point, Milford Sound |
We had a real treat out near the heads of Milford Sound...a pod of between 20-30 Dolphins were swimming around the boat for about 20 minutes. They were coming right up close to the ship and giving us the gimlet eye as they passed. If you have never seen one up close Dolphins are frickin' big...2-3 meters long, round, fat and sleek.
It was cool...
 |
| One of the Jucy Cruise vessels in Milford Sound |
 |
| The Jucy Cruise ship and a small boat follow us up Milford Sound |
We had excellent weather on the day I visited Milford Sound...warm and sunny with just a hint of wind. A bit of rain might have been nice...the boat captain told us that when it is raining heavily there are over 8000 waterfalls visible along Milford Sound. I would like to see that...
The only two waterfalls running on this day were Stirling Falls and Bowen Falls which are both glacier fed.
 |
| A 800 meter high bluff near Stirling Falls |
 |
| View up Milford Sound to the head of the Sound..... |
The Palisades is the spot where the last great glacier in Milford Sound was anchored too over 8500 years ago. That is one reason why these bluffs are so dramatic as there has been very little weathering of these mountains. Eight thousand years is a pittance when it comes to geological time spans.
 |
| The Palisades from Milford Sound |
 |
| ...1300 meters of water under this Milford Sound bluff... |
There was a medium sized motor boat trolling along near us for most of the afternoon..it was only when we slowed down to approach Stirling Falls that we noticed it was puling a sea biscuit behind it with a person on board. Imagine being pulled down most of Milford Sound on a sea biscuit...cold, wet...COLD!!!
 |
| There is a person on the biscuit behind the small boat...Milford Sound |
The Lady Bowen takes you right up to and under Stirling Falls as there is deep water where the waterfall meets the Sound. It is 151 meters high and had a lot of water pummeling down from it. Stirling Falls and Bowen Falls are the only permanent waterfalls in Milford Sound because when it is not raining the Sounds area is actually fairly dry. There aren't a lot of rivers, creeks or streams to feed waterfalls...just rain run off.
 |
| Closing in on Stirling Falls, Milford Sound |
 |
| The boat goes right under the Stirling Falls, Milford Sound |
 |
| ...the boat crew call it the Glacial Facial..... |
 |
| ...the roar of Stirling Falls was deafening... |
 |
| ...we leave Stirling Falls behind... |
 |
| Stirling Falls is one of only two permanent waterfalls here... |
When you look at these soaring bluffs it is amazing that any form of vegetation can make a home there. It might not be an ideal location but still life finds a way...
 |
| Hardy vegetation on the flank of the Lion, Milford Sound |
 |
| Ocean level view of these monster bluffs, Milford Sound |
Part of the deal I had purchased was a visit to the
Milford Sound Underwater Observatory in Harrison Cove. The Observatory is on a floating platform so there is a perceptible rise and fall to the whole building. It is interesting...there are artificial seabed sections around the platform with coral and other bottom dwelling fauna living on them. You can also see sections of the sea bed and submerged cliffs which have various fauna and flora growing there.
You can see quite a few fish species as well as corals, anemones, starfish, shellfish, sea grass, sea cucumbers, sponges, crabs and crayfish. The Observatory staff said that they get regular visits from sharks and they have even seen seals in the area.
 |
| Harrison Cove...home of the Milford Sound Underwater Observatory... |
 |
| Inside the Milford Underwater Observatory, Milford sound |
I believe Harrison Cove is also the place where kayak adventures are undertaken although we saw no people on the water when we were there. There was a storage area at the back of the Observatory with racks of kayaks waiting to be used.
 |
| Lady Bowen tied to the dock in Harrison Cove |
 |
| View as we pulled away from Harrison Cove, Milford Sound |
After spending about 30 minutes at the Observatory we jumped back onto the boat and headed back to Milford.
 |
| First close view of Bowen Falls, Milford Sound |
 |
| Mt Phillips and the Freshwater Basin hove into view... |
On the way back to the terminal you pass the only other permanent waterfall Bowen Falls which just like Stirling Falls is fed by a glacial stream. The water comes from the Grave Glacier way up the hanging valley behind the falls. At 162 meters it is an impressive waterfall and it had a lot of water pumping out of it. It is the source of drinking water and hydro electric power for the settlement of Milford.
 |
| Bowen Falls (162 meters) in Milford Sound |
 |
| Last view of Milford Sound before I headed back to Te Anau |
I really enjoyed going on this boat cruise and would highly recommend it to anyone who found themselves in Te Anau with a day to spare. Combined with one of the many short walks in Milford Sound it makes for an excellent day trip. If you are ever heading south for the Southern Lakes make the effort to go to Milford...you will not be disappointed.
Access: Milford and Milford Sound can be reached along SH94 the Milford Highway. It is 118 km's from Te Anau and will take from 1.5-2 hours to drive. Take the pathway down to the cruise terminal to check-in...all boats leave from this location.
Cruise Times: The Lady Bowen cruise goes out as far as the mouth of Milford Sound. The cruise plus time spent at the Underwater Observatory makes this a three hour long journey.
Miscellaneous: There is parking at Milford Sound near the Milford Lodge but only buses are allowed next to the Milford Sound boat terminal. It costs $10 for two hours, $20 for three hours and $50 overnight to park. Take food/water/warm clothing with you as there are limited facilities at Milford. Complementary hot drinks and water are available on all Southern Discoveries boat cruises and you can also purchase food and drink (soft and alcoholic..) on the vessel. Try the Spruce Beer..it is good!!!
