I was working on a bit of fitness walking for my upcoming tramp of the Paparoa Track so I decided to go and walk one of the sections of the Christchurch 360 Track that I had yet to finish. I have been working on this project for awhile now and only have two sections left to walk...from Godley Head to Sumner and the section from Spencer Park to Brooklands.
You start and finish the track in Taylors Mistake one of many small bays around the Port Hills and Banks Peninsula. My school buddies and I used to spend a bit of time at Taylors Mistake back in the 1980's when we were into surfing and wave riding. It has always been one of the premier surf breaks in Canterbury and you will often see Boof-heads out catching some waves over the weekends...
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| Carpark at the surf club in Taylors Mistake |
It was a great three hour walk and very enjoyable...so lets have a look at the detail of what you can expect on this track...
Walking the Pilgrims Way from Taylors Mistake to Godley Head:
The track starts from the carpark behind the Taylors Mistake surf club off Taylors Mistake Drive. There is plenty of parking here for several hundred cars. Even so it will be busy on fine weekends so try to get here early to secure a good spot.
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| Map: the Godley Head track network |
The full circuit to Godley Heads and back to Taylors Mistake is approximately 7 kilometers and will take from 3-4 hours to complete. Make sure you are equipped to be exposed to the elements as there is zero cover for all of this time...carry gear for both sunny/warm and cold/windy conditions as you will probably experience both.
It was HOT and sunny so I slathered myself with sunscreen and wore a wide brim hat so I didn't roast myself....
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| Looking back to a full carpark at Taylors Mistake |
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| On the start of the Pilgrim Way Coastal Track
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Taylors Mistake was first spotted by a seaman navigator by the name of Taylor during Captain Cooks first voyage of discovery so they named the cove after him. Cook thought Taylors Cove was a large inlet or harbor as it was foggy at the time...it later proved to be a short bay hence the use of Mistake in the name....
The officers of Cook's ship actually though Banks Peninsula was an large island and period maps show it as such. Back then the entrance to the Avon Estuary and Lake Ellesmere were much larger than they are now. It looked like there was a shallow channel right around the base of the hills but as they were worried about shoaling the Endeavour they did not investigate further. It was only later that Europeans discovered there was a plain of low land surrounding the bottom of the Port Hills.
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| Start of the climb out of Taylors Mistake |
You start climbing immediately after leaving Taylors Mistake...the gradient is ok for walking on but you will be spending most of the next hour climbing steadily up towards Godley Heads. The track is rated as intermediate but there are a couple of steep, rocky sections along the way...
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| Taylors Mistake is a great surf break... |
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| Pilgrim Way Coastal Track: heading along the track near Taylors Mistake |
The track is really excellent...flat, wide and well maintained it is a very easy track to use. It was super busy on the day as this was the first fine weather weekend for nearly a month. There were hundreds of people walking, running, strolling and pushing babies along in buggies. It was lovely to see so many people out and about...
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| View of Taylors Mistake from the Pilgrim Way Coastal Track |
Stay away from the track edge folks...there are some big drop offs along this coastal pathway and it is close to the edge in a number of spots. Stay to the right and common sense will see you through....
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| Pilgrim Way Coastalal Track is wide, flat easy walking... |
There are great views of the coast, ocean and the many bays you pass along the track...you can see the course of the track winding its way along the coast in a number of spots. The track is really obvious as the gravel used on the track is a light tan/grey color that really sticks out against the side of the hills.
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| The Pilgrim Way Coastal Track snakes along the coast... |
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| Bridge over a gulch on the Pilgrim Way Coastal Track |
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| There are many bays along the coast of Banks Peninsula |
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| There is rock fall danger at points on the Pilgrim Way Coast Track |
There was a particular type of coastal plant in flower along most of the track at this time of the year. Cotyledon Orbiculata or Crassulaceace is an endemic plant on the Port Hills/Banks Peninsula and is particularly nice between November and March when the stems hold flowers. I have also seen these plants on the Te Ara Pataka Track, Mt Herbert and at Birdlings Flats.
I really like the appearance of this succulent...it has interesting broad leaves and a tall stem with orange/red petals at the tip. Really striking...it looked picturesque scattered across the hillsides in profusion...it would be worth walking the track at this time of the year just to see these plants.
The track sidles along the side of the hills for most of the way to Boulder Bay roughly 100 meters above sea level. You have awesome views along the coast and down to the rugged rocky coastline in between the various bays. There is plenty of evidence of the volcanic past of the Port Hills on display with ochre and red colored rock formations, lava tubes and layers of ash all visible......
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| View of Harris Bay from Pilgrim Way Coastal Track |
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| Moki Point and Scarborough Cliffs from Pilgrims Way Coastal Track |
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| Approaching Boulder Bay Settlement on the Pilgrim Way Coastal Track |
Boulder Bay is a small grouping of houses in one of the small bays along this coastline...there are only half a dozen homes most of which would have been in the same family for decades. This is all DOC land now so no more houses can be built and those that remain will eventually disappear as the leases on the land run out. Eventually all these buildings will be removed.
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| You start the climb to Godley Head past Boulder Bay |
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| Information panel about Boulder Bay |
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| From Scarborough Cliffs to Boulder Bay, Port Hills |
Past Boulder Bay you start the real climb up to Godley Head....all of the track from this point on will be up hill. It is only about about a kilometer from here to the main defense installation and you pass a number of other defense works on the way.
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| Climbing to Godley Head on Pilgrim Way Coastal Track |
Back in 1939 and the start of World War II the New Zealand government struggled to provide defenses for the various large ports along our coastline. Lyttleton was the third largest port at that time so it was decided it urgently needed defensive works. As a stop gap a couple of heavy artillery pieces from the Great War (60 Pounder howitzers) were installed on purpose built pads on the heads.
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| Taylor Battery 60 Pdr artillery base pads at Godley Head |
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| The Taylor Battery guns had a great view to Lyttleton Harbor entrance |
This was only a stop gap measure and over the next two years more extensive defense works were developed with mounted 6 inch naval guns, search lights, listening posts and barracks. At its height there were over 500 defense personal stationed here...mostly Home Guard, Navy and Women's Auxiliary.
The guns were never fired in anger but they were needed as Japanese submarines probed the defenses of Lyttleton harbor and there were several German commerce raiders early in the War who sank a number of ships around the New Zealand coast. We may think we are immune to conflict way down here in the South Pacific but that is a fallacy as modern warfare is truly global. Even in WWII subs had a range of 12-15 000 kilometers....
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| Fixed 6 inch gun battery position at Taylor Battery, Godley Head |
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| Information about the defense installation at Godley Head |
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| These Taylor Battery pads had 6 inch naval guns fitted.... |
Another interesting item on Godley Head is one of Captain Falcon Scott's huts which was originally meant to serve as a weather survey hut in Antarctica. It never made it toff the ship and was returned to New Zealand where it was used for many years as a residential garden hut up on Clifton Rise.
After the Christchurch earthquakes the historic hut had to move as the house it was at was destroyed. It was donated to the Department of Conservation restored and moved to this site in 2012. It is just off the main track and can be visited by following a short side track or from a sign posted farm track which descends to the hut from near Godley Heads Campsite.
BTW: All you avid hut baggers...this beastie and the new Lighthouse Cottage are on the
Hut Bagger site and can be bagged as DOC huts....
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| Scotts Cabin at Godley Head, Port Hills |
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| Interior of Scotts Cabin, Godley Heads, Port Hills |
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| Information panel about Scotts Cabin at Godley Heads |
From Scott's Cabin it is either back down the track to the main Pilgrims Way OR you can sidle cross country on one of the many sheep tracks. This is what I did and it eventually dropped me back onto the track just near the start of the main defense installation at Godley Heads. Alternately follow the farm track from Scotts Cabin up to the campsite on the crest and walk back down the section of track I missed on this trip.
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| The last section of Pilgrim Way Coastal Track to Godley Head |
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| The sheep track I followed to Godley Head |
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| View down to the temporary gun emplacements...Taylor Battery, Godley Heads |
This is a lovely track with great views of the coast and if you want you can just turn around and walk back the way you came. I decided to be a bit more adventurous and do the full Godley Head Loop Track by walking back to Taylors Mistake via the Breeze Col MTB Track.
More about that later....
At Godley Heads:
They had the gates open at the main Godley Head defense installation so I went in to have a bit of a look around. By the end of 1941 they had proper underground and or armored embrasures for the naval guns they had stationed up here as well as the full support facilities a gun battery required. Most of these are underground...there is a huge complex of tunnels and underground storage areas under these fortifications.
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| The start of the Godley Head defense installation... |
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| Gun pits and observation bunkers, Godley Head |
There is a fence in front of the gun emplacements...don't be tempted to climb over it as there are 60-100 meter high cliffs right along here. Falling of the cliff would be a most unpleasant way to head off to meet your maker....
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| Embrasure for one of the 6 inch fixed guns at Godley Head |
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| View from Godley Battery gun pit along Pegasus Bay |
The guns posted here could lob a shell as far as the mouth of the Waimakiriri River and up to 10km's out to sea. The guns were only fired once in the late 1940's as a training exercise and the shots shattered most of the concrete in the gun pit used. How they would have faced up to a bombardment from a big Japanese battleship or even a Nazi commerce cruiser is questionable. I don't think they would have lasted very long.....
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| On the track to the Lighthouse Cottage, Godley Head |
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| There are great coastal views from Godley Head |
After visiting the gun emplacements I headed along the Godley Head access road through the campsite and down to the picnic area at the Godley Head car park. I passed the new Lighthouse Cottage on the way and noted the various people spending the weekend camping at the campsite. Both Karen and I are keen to come camp up here some time...
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| Lighthouse Cottage...Awaroa/Godley Head campsite |
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| Jon on the track past Lighthouse Cottage, Godley Heads |
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| Awaroa/Godley Head campsite, Port Hills.... |
There were three or four groups staying in the campsite...both tents and caravans/camper vans. It would be an interesting place to camp but you would need a good tent as it is heinously windy up here on occasion. There are a few trees but they don't do much to cut the wind.
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| View along the Port Hills from Godley Head Campsite |
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| Godley Heads car park and toilet... |
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| There are lots of good tracks from Godley Head car park |
There are 3-4 picnic tables next to the Godley Head carpark so I sat down and had a rest for 10 minutes before continuing on my way. There were lots of people parking here and heading off in all directions to follow the various tracks that start here. There is shade, toilets and water available at this picnic area so it is a great spot to rest before continuing on your journey.
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| My Vaude Brenta 40l pack at Godley Heads picnic area |
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| Lyttleton Heads from the Godley Heads car park... |
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| There is a small picnic area at the Godley Head car park |
I had a quick look at the information panel at the carpark as I had forgotten to bring my topo map I had printed off just to confirm my location. It would be hard to get lost but you should always have a map of your walk even if you think you know where you are going.
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| Panel showing the Godley Head Track network... |
I sent Karen a quick text before heading off just to let her know I was O.K. and hadn't fallen off the track to splatter on the rocks below.....
Breeze Col Track to Taylors Mistake:
From the Summit Road the walking is much easier...first along the Breeze Col MTB Track and then down the distant Godley Head Loop Track. If you decide to walk along the MTB track like I did be aware of the cyclists using the track....you are using their track so they have the right of way. I would occasionally cast a glance back to see if any MTB riders were coming and if so I would move out of the way.
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| The Summit Road goes from Godley Head to Gebbies Pass |
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| Start of the Breeze Col MTB Track at Godley Heads |
Because this is a MTB track the gradients are very gentle...no massive hill climbs to undertake but of course there are undulations as no track is perfectly straight. It is about 1.5 kilometers from the carpark to the point where the track starts to descend to Taylors Mistake once again.
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| On the Breeze Col MTB Track, Port Hills |
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| View back to Godley Heads from the MTB track |
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| Pegasus Bay from Breeze Col MTB Track |
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| Good view of Taylors Mistake from the MTB track |
There are some nice views down to Taylors Mistake along this track and it is lined for most of the way by the same bright succulents as the Pilgrims Way. The Summit Road runs along just above you for most of the way to the next track junction so you will be able to watch cars creeping along the sporty narrow winding road...
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| The Breeze Col MTB Track follows the Summit Road |
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| You can see the Godley Heads Loop descending to the Pilgrim Way Coastal Track |
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| Making way for MTB riders on Breeze Col MTB Track |
Eventually you will arrive at a track junction for the Breeze Col MTB Track, Breeze Col Walking Track and the Godley Head Loop Track. Just stay on the main track in front of you and follow it as it starts to slowly wind its way back down towards Taylors Mistake.
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| The Godley Heads Loop Track descends down to Taylors Mistake |
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| Start of the Breeze Bay Walking Track at Godley Heads |
If you stay on the main track Crater Rim Walkway it will eventually drop you at Evans Pass where you can walk down to Sumner. Alternately you can keep walking and make your way along the rest of the Crater Rim Walkway which is all part of the larger Christchurch 360 Trail. The whole Christchurch 360 Trail around the outskirts of Christchurch is over 140 km's long....
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| The Christchurch 360 Trail continues along the Port Hills... |
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| MTB friendly bridges on the track to Taylors Mistake |
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| The Godley Loop descends back down to the Pilgrim Way Coastal Track |
Halfway along the Godley Head Loop Track is a side track for the MTB riders...this is the Anaconda Track which drops much more steeply to Taylors Mistake. You can walk this way if you want but be super careful of bikes as you may not see them coming on this narrow winding trail...
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| Anaconda MTB track to left....Godley Heads Loop Track to right... |
I stopped just off the track near here and had a rest break while sitting on a handy rock ledge and enjoying the visual surrounds.
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| Scarborough Heads from the Godley Loop Track |
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| On the Godley Head Loop Track heading down to Taylors Mistake |
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| View of Taylors Mistake from the Godley Head Loop track |
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| The views of the ocean are spectacular at Godley Heads.... |
The Godley Heads Loop Track eventually rejoins the Pilgrims Way Track and then heads back along the first kilometer of that track to Taylors Mistake...there were a lot of people on the track as it was getting on to late afternoon and the weather had been improving as they day went on.
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| Pilgrim Way Coastal Track from the Godley Head Loop Track |
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| Rejoining the Pilgrim Way Coastal Track... |
There are interesting views of Taylors Mistake as you drop down to the beach....the tidal range on the Banks Peninsula beaches is quite high so a wide expanse of the beach was now exposed as it was low tide.
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| Heading back down the Pilgrim Way Coastal Track to Taylors Mistake |
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| The tide is well receded at Taylors Mistake, Port Hills |
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| Descending down to the settlement at Taylors Mistake |
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| One of the Taylors Mistake cribs.... |
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| Christchurch 360 Trail marker on the Pilgrim Way Coastal Track |
I walked down and past the cribs, houses and holiday homes along the edge of Taylors Mistake...this is the other start point for the track. These homes are more substantial and some of them are on freehold land so are more likely to survive into the future. Most of them have a BoHo surfer feel to them as this has always been a more alternate residential area of Christchurch.
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| On the beach track at Taylors Mistake |
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| More Taylors Mistake cribs..... |
I ended the track just behind the Taylors Mistake Surf Club...this is the actual start/finish of the track and there are toilets and water fountains at the children's playground. No one was using the play equipment...it would be hard to ignore that lovely big beach right next to it....
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| End of the Pilgrim Way Coastal Track at Taylors surf club |
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| Taylors Mistake toilet block....end of the track! |
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| Godley Head information panel at Taylors Mistake |
It was stinking hot by the time I finished this track...take sun screen and use it or you will get the full all body roasting action going on. Who really wants to look and feel like a Sunday chook cooking in the oven.....
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| Start of the Godley Head tracks at Taylors Mistake |
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| The Silver Surfer parked at Taylors Mistake |
This is a really awesome track and really deserves more promotion...it has great ocean views, a lovely easy to walk track, historical interest and ease of access. What else do you need...come on out and try it on for size.
Access: From Summer take the Scarborough Road and then Taylors Mistake Road to the Taylors Mistake surf club carpark The road is narrow & winding so watch for other vehicles. The track starts right behind the surf club toilet block.
Track Times: From the car-park it is 1 hour 45 minutes to Godley Heads, 3-4 hours return via Godley Heads Loop Track, all tracks are well marked and signposted.
Hut details: Lighthouse Cottage: Serviced/Sole occupancy, 4 bunks, water, power, electric heating...book on DOC website.
Campsite Details: Godley Head Campsite: DOC ranger on site over summer, water tank, toilets
Miscellaneous: This track is exposed to all weather so it can be blisteringly hot and cold, wet and windy. Come prepared for all eventualities. Public toilets at Taylors Mistake, the Godley Head campsite and at the Godley Head car-park.
