The huts of the Heaphy Track...

A quick glance at the huts on the Heaphy Track

 I recently finished walking the Heaphy Track and I thought it would worthwhile to highlight the fantastic array of huts you will find along the track. There are six huts and eight shelters along the track and they provide overnight accommodation and sheltered lunch spots for all the riders and trampers who cover the track. 

Jon on the MacKay Downs, Heaphy Track

I walked the Heaphy Track from Brown River to Kohaihai so let us follow the huts in that direction and find out a bit more about each of them...

Brown River to Perry Saddle Hut:

The first day on the Heaphy Track is the walk from the Brown River carpark to Perry Saddle Hut...it is 18 km's over 5-6 hours...

Brown River Shelter:

First shelter on the Heaphy Track is the day shelter at the Brown River road end. It is a relatively new building built in the last couple of years and has covered seating, a water tank and a set of flush toilets. It is mainly intended as a covered waiting point for people taking transport out to Takaka and Nelson. 

The day shelter at the Brown River carpark, Kahurangi NP

The Heaphy Track starts right next to the shelter and there is an iconic Heaphy Track sign located adjacent to it. I stopped here for a couple of minutes and packed my loose gear before setting out on my journey...

The Heaphy Track begins right next to the shelter...

FYI: DOC have weather information and contact details for transport operators on the walls of the shelter. Most transport from this location needs to be pre booked...see my post about organising a trip on the Heaphy Track...

Specifications:

Day shelter with seating, watertank from roof, and flush toilets

Brown Hut:

Brown Hut is the first hut along the Heaphy Track and is just 200 meters down the track from the Brown River car park. It is the second oldest hut on the track and is often used as the starting point for late arriving people walking the track, overnight visitors and anglers. The Brown River is a noted trout fishery and the shuttle driver and I were talking about fishing in the local rivers on the way to the track. 

Brown Hut (1971), Kahurangi NP

I stayed in Brown Hut back in the early 1990's when my partner (at that time) and I walked into the old Perry Saddle Hut. We spent the night there after arriving late and then set out to the next hut the following morning. I liked the hut as it is super quirky with the stonework around the foundation and the Brown River is very close to the hut. 

Brown Hut has sleeping platforms for sixteen people

I love sleeping platforms in a hut and when I think of a backcountry hut they are one of the images I see in my mind. Brown Hut has these funky deeply varnished ones. 

Nice!!!

FYI: there are camping sites next to and around the hut and there is enough space here for about 10 tents in total!!!

Specifications:

Great Walk Hut: 16 bunks, 10 campsites, water from tanks, wood burner, flush toilets, picnic tables

Aorere Shelter:

Aorere Shelter is the first of the campsite shelters on the Heaphy Track when walking from north to south. It is an open, three sided structure with seating inside and out and is immediately adjacent to the campsite. Several of the older campsite shelters on the Heaphy Track are built to this pattern and it is a very well thought out and useful design. 

Aorere Shelter (1980's), Kahurangi NP

The shelters are built with only three sides to discourage people sleeping in them though I am sure some would do so anyway especially when it is raining. They could do with bug screens across the front as the sandflies are numerous in this part of the country...the open side reduces the usefulness of the shelter.

The inside of the Aorere Shelter on the Heaphy Track

There is a small covered bench with water taps and a sink adjacent to the shelter and this is where the campers can take water and clean their dishes etc. This design is used at nearly all the campsites on this track...I like it because I can see it would work well. 

The small cleaning sink and water source at Aorere Shelter

All of the campsite shelters built to this pattern were constructed back in the 1980's and while they are well maintained they are starting to show their age. They are over 40 years old now and would see a power of use year after year...do they need to be replaced? 

Specifications:

Campsite shelter, 5 campsites, seating, watertank from roof, flush toilets

Perry Saddle Hut:

Perry Saddle Hut is where most people will spend the first night of their tramp on the Heaphy Track. It is at the end of the long six hour climb up from Brown Hut and it is a welcome sight as it rolls into view from near Lookout Point. The hut is located on the northern edge of Perry Saddle which links the Tasman coast with the downlands you cover on day three. 

Perry Saddle Hut (2012), Kahurangi NP

Several of the huts on this track were replaced over 2012-2014 as the previous buildings could not cope with the increasing number of people who are using the track. Perry Saddle along with James MacKay and Heaphy Hut are all built to the same basic template with three bunkrooms, a large central living space and attached toilet block. All three are excellent places to stay and typical of the newer DOC backcountry huts. 

Living space inside Perry Saddle Hut, Kahurangi NP

The bunkrooms at Perry Saddle are named and I stayed in Kaka Saddle which is a terrain feature in the nearby Gouland Range. The other two bunkrooms were Dragons Teeth and Mount Perry. None of the other huts had named bunkrooms...

Kaka Bunkroom at Perry Saddle Hut

The hut was about 2/3 full which was the norm for the days I was walking the track. Usually the huts are totally full at this time of year but a huge chunk of the population was locked down in Auckland which probably explains why the huts had empty bunks...

Specifications:

Great Walk Hut: 28 bunks, water from tanks, wood burner, flush toilets, picnic tables

Perry Saddle Campsite Shelter:

Each of the larger Heaphy Track huts has a co-located campsite with space for 5-10 tents and Perry Saddle is no exception. There is a separate campsite shelter as campers are not permitted to use the living space inside a Great Walk hut. Your average Great Walk hut has from 20-40 visitors each night and adding another 10-20 people would make for crowded conditions...

The campsite shelter at Perry Saddle is different from the other huts. It is a more basic structure with openings on two of the sides and it has heavy duty plastic curtains which can be rolled up to open or close the structure. I'm not sure if I like this design as much as the older shelters because those curtains will perish over time and it might be difficult to find replacements. 

Specifications:

Campsite shelter with 5 campsites, seating, watertank from roof, and flush toilets

 

Perry Saddle Hut to James MacKay Hut:

The second day of the track starts out in the forest near Perry Saddle but you will soon find yourself crossing the tussock covered downland of Gouland Downs and MacKay Downs. Some people will walk to James MacKay Hut in one day (24km's or 6-9 hours!!!) but you can also stop for the night at either Gouland Downs Hut or Saxon Hut along the way. 

Gouland Downs Hut:

Gouland Downs Hut is the oldest hut on the Heaphy Track and it has a lot of charm with its cosy rustic interior, open fireplace and ton of history. This was originally a deer cullers hut before the track was recut and it has been in continuous use since it was built in 1957. 

Gouland Downs Hut (1957), Kahurangi NP

The hut has been well maintained and it is just as comfortable as any other on the track...it would be worth staying a night if that fits into your plans just for the open fireplace. 

The interior of Gouland Downs Hut....

One of the main attractions with this hut is the chance to see Takahe in the wild. Gouland Downs is the place you are most likely to see Takahe as they were released close to the hut and several have stayed in the general vicinity. I talked to the people who stayed in Gouland Downs Hut the night before I arrived and they saw three Takahe at the same time the previous evening...

Specifications:

Great Walk Hut: 8 bunks, water from tanks, open fire, flush toilets, picnic tables

Saxon Hut:

I think Saxon Hut was my favorite on this track...it is smaller than the newer huts but it really reminds me of other serviced huts I have visited around the country. Saxon Hut is located on the edge of Gouland Downs and I think it is a better accommodation option than walking all the way from Perry Saddle to James MacKay Hut in one day. 

Saxon Hut (1984), Kahurangi NP

 The hut is mid sized and will easily hold 16 people though the night I stayed it was just myself and an English couple. It has sleeping platforms and a lay out which reminded me of huts on the St James Walkway, Arthurs Pass NP and in Nelson Lakes NP. I love this style of hut and will actively seek them out when I am planning my tramping trips... 

Saxon Hut is also a place that Takahe like to visit and I was so pleased to stay here as a Takahe spent most of the afternoon around the hut on the night I was there. It was quite tame and walked up to the three of us and browsed the grass around the hut clearing. 

A native Takahe chows down on the grass outside Saxon Hut

Surprisingly there is no campsite shelter at the Saxon Hut site even though there are five campsites located here. I suppose the hut gets so little use they just decided that people will be able to sit inside the hut to eat their meals. 

Specifications:

Great Walk Hut: 16 bunks, 5 campsites, water from tanks, wood burner, flush toilets, picnic tables

James MacKay Hut:

James MacKay Hut marks the dividing line between the sub alpine downland and the forest you will be passing through on your descent down to the Lewis River on the second to last day of your trip. It sits right on the edge of MacKay Downs and on a fine day the mouth of the Heaphy River is clearly visible in the distance.

James MacKay Hut (2012), Kahurangi NP

The hut had a nice feel to it and I thought it was my second best liked hut on this track. I think it helped that I arrived in a rain storm and within an hour I was dry and had a blazing fire going. It has a wonderful veranda around it and I could see sitting outside and reading over a sunny afternoon as it had the least number of sandflies of any of the huts on this track. 

Inside one of the bunkrooms at James MacKay Hut

The hut warden at James MacKay was a Kiwi women who has been working up here every summer for over a decade and she was awesome and totally typical of a West Coaster. 

Specifications:

Great Walk Hut: 28 bunks, water from tanks, wood burner, flush toilets, picnic tables

James MacKay Campsite Shelter:

James MacKay is the most exposed of the hut and campsite locations on the Heaphy Track so I was expecting a heavy duty campsite shelter and I was not mistaken. The new shelter here is a nearly enclosed structure with only a door sized gap on one wall open to the air.  It looks like one of those DOC relocatable staff quarters which has been repurposed. 

James MacKay Campsite Shelter (2020), Kahurangi NP

 The building looks to be insulated and it has a bench, sink and water taps inside with a couple of flushing toilets located not too far away. Again...it should really be enclosed so that you can use the facilities without being eaten alive by the bugs. 

Interior of the new campsite shelter at James MacKay Hut

The tent sites both here and at Saxon Hut were of the platform type...wooden platforms with tie down points attached to them. A free standing tent is the best option on this type of platform but any tent can be set up on them with a bit of thought. 

The platform tent sites at James MacKay Campsite

The trip from James MacKay Hut to Heaphy Hut will be on either day three or four of your trip depending on how many days you are walking the track over...

Specifications:

Campsite shelter with 5 campsites, seating, watertank from roof, and flush toilets

 Ministry of Works Hut:

Now...right from the start I am going to tell you to seriously think before undertaking the trip to the MOW Hut on MacKay Downs. This is a serious off track trip with significant consequences if you get lost enroute to the hut. It should only be attempted by people with excellent backcountry experience, navigation skills, good maps AND a GPS unit. 

DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS ROUTE unless you have these skills and equipment!!!

The Ministry of Works Hut is the most original SF70 six bunk hut left in New Zealand and is a Mecca level acquisition for serious hut baggers. There is no marked track and some serious bush bashing is required to access the hut. 

The Ministry of Works Hut in Kahurangi NP

The Ministry of Works Hut was built in the early 1970's when the then Ministry of Works were contemplating building a road from Collingwood to Karamea. They were serious about this project as government surveyors spent nearly two years plotting the route of the road before it was decided it would be too difficult and costly to build. 

Bush bashing from the Heaphy Track to the MOW Hut

The MOW Hut can be accessed from the Heaphy Track as a side trip or as part of the longer Heaphy River to Kahurangi Lighthouse Route. It would require an additional two days from the Heaphy Track as it is rough and rugged terrain. You need one day to get to the hut and another to get back to the Heaphy Track on top of walking the Heaphy Track itself. 

Typical terrain over MacKay Downs you will cross...

There are possible routes from James MacKay Hut, Horrible Creek and Blueshirt Creek and there are many discussions of these routes online. The most straightforward is up Blueshirt Creek but all of them cross a confusing mix of downs, thick bush, creek beds and swamp. Only 10-20 parties make it here each year which gives you an idea of the intensity of the route. 

You drop off this bridge near Blueshirt Creek...to get to MOW Hut

I am only including this here as an increasing number of people are attempting the route to the hut and it is something you can consider if your skills are up to the task. Be forewarned...it is tiger country!!!

Specifications:

Basic, 6 bunks, open fire, water from stream, no toilet

James Mackay Hut to Kohaihai:

From James MacKay Hut you are dropping down to the confluence of the Lewis and Heaphy River before spending two solid hours walking along the river and out to the coast. For me it was the longest day of the track at 21 km's and over 6 hours and even though it is mostly downhill you will still be tired when you get to Heaphy Hut. 

Lewis Shelter:

In 2020 DOC decided to remove the old Lewis Hut from its location at the confluence of the Lewis and Heaphy Rivers. This hut was similar to Saxon Hut and was a useful place to stay for those walking south to north along the track. 

The old Lewis Hut (1970's-2021)

The hut was removed as erosion had started to seriously threaten the hut site and it was decided that it should be replaced with a day shelter only. It was only completed in October of 2021 about a month before I started the track. 

Lewis Shelter (2021), Kahurangi NP

It is an excellent day shelter but I personally think it has a number of flaws. The most glaring is that it is open sided in possibly the most sandfly plagued spot outside of the Hollyford Valley. There were so many vicious sandflies here that it is basically unusable. I was covered in extra strength DEET and they were laughing at me as they chewed me to death.

Bastids!!!

Interior of the new Lewis Shelter on the Heaphy Track

There are seats inside the hut and an extensive bench so you could get the cooker out and heat water for soup, meals and hot drinks. There is also a very nice view from the veranda down to the Heaphy River Suspension Bridge and Lewis River. 

The other end of the interior space at the Lewis shelter...

There is a bench just outside the entrance to the shelter with two water taps and a couple of sinks. The water here is not filtered so you will need to boil, filter or treat it yourself as it comes from a nearby stream. 

The taps and sinks on the exterior of Lewis Shelter

If the shelter had doors I would be giving it five stars as it is a good design but just not for this track and this location. For example this shelter would be perfect up on the escarpment on the Paparoa Track. You would be better to stop in a heavily forested spot on the track to eat your lunch as you are less likely to be murdered by sandflies. 

View of the Lewis Shelter from the veranda...

Given the size of the new shelter, how much it probably cost, its location and the conditions you face on the Heaphy Track I really think they should have replaced the old Lewis Hut with a new hut. It could have been smaller...like one of those 10 person huts you see around the country. It would be useful for people travelling NOBO along the track to have somewhere to potentially stay before that massive climb up to the James MacKay Hut. 

It is just my personal opinion but I think this was a missed call...

Specifications:

Day shelter with seating, watertank from roof, and flush toilets

Heaphy Hut:

Heaphy Hut is either your first or last nights accommodation on the Heaphy Track and because it is used by people heading both ways it is slightly bigger at 32 bunks. It is in a absolutely premium spot and if this was any place but New Zealand there would be a multi million dollar house or lodge built here. 

Heaphy Hut (2014), Kahurangi NP

As I said earlier it is of the same basic design as Perry Saddle and James MacKay but it has four bunkrooms and not three. It has the largest living space of all the huts on this track and it is by far the largest overall when it comes to dimensions. This is the fourth hut constructed on this same spot so the original hut builders choose the right place to locate it. 

Interior of Heaphy Hut at the mouth of the Heaphy river

When you visit you absolutely must go down to the beach at the mouth of the Heaphy River. It is the most awesome spot around the hut and you can swim in the river, sunbathe, go fishing in the estuary (with a permit) and just enjoy the scenery. 

I spent nearly an hour at the beach myself as there is a lot to see and do. 

View up the Heaphy River Valley from the estuary

This family caught three big fish at the Heaphy River Estuary

BTW...there is cell cover from the beach if you get down close to the waterline...I checked MetService and talked to Karen down at Karamea for about 30 minutes without any problems. I also sent some photos to Facebook so you can send and receive from here. 

Specifications:

Great Walk Hut: 32 bunks, water from tanks, wood burner, flush toilets, picnic tables

Heaphy Campsite Shelter:

There is a campsite at Heaphy Beach and it has space for over 20 tents on a large and well groomed area of grass in front of the hut. The shelter is to the same design as the Aorere and Katipo Creek locations and has interior seating, toilets, tap water and sinks...

Heaphy Campsite Shelter (1980's), Kahurangi NP

Again with the open sided shelters....anywhere else this would be excellent but in the context of the sandfly infested West Coast it just doesn't work. Still...it is better than standing out in the cold and rain cooking your meals. 

Interior of the campsite shelter at the Heaphy River

If I was walking/riding the Heaphy Track and tenting I would be taking "no cook" foods as you can still eat but stay inside your tent away form the damn bugs. Sandwiches, salads, crackers and cold soak meals would be better than hot food...to limit your exposure.

Specifications:

Campsite shelter with 20 campsites, seating, fireplaces, watertank from roof, and flush toilets

Katipo Creek Shelter:

Katipo Creek Shelter is the last shelter on the actual track and services the small campsite located next to the Katipo Creek bridge. It is the half way point between Heaphy Hut and Kohaihai and it is the natural place to stop for a break as you make your way between them. 

Katipo Creek Shelter (1980's), Kahurangi NP

These structures are very basic but they offer a modicum of protection from the elements for those camping here or on their way to other places. You would really appreciate these shelters in a big rain storm...of that I can be sure. 

The interior of the Katipo Creek Shelter

Both times I have been here I spent less than five minutes which was just enough time for a drink, snack and to tie my bootlaces etc. I signed the intensions book in all of these shelters built to this design as they all have one to be filled out by the campsite residents. 

Specifications:

Campsite shelter with 5 campsites, seating, watertank from roof, and flush toilets

Kohaihai Shelter:

The end of the line for those walking the track from north to south and a good spot to wait for your transport once you walk off the track. The shelter is built to the same basic design as those at Aorere, Katipo Creek and the Heaphy River but this one is more elaboratively decorated. 

Kohaihai Day Shelter (1980's), Kahurangi NP

The shelter at Kohaihai is primarily for people waiting for a shuttle bus etc. but it would also be a great place to organise your gear before setting out along the track. You could go into the shelter when it is raining and sort out your pack without getting everything inside it wet. 

Kohaihai Shelter...typical DOC day shelter seen at many road-ends. 

The campsite at Kohaihai looks to be a ripper and it has a brand new ablution block with toilets, showers, tank water and some cooking benches. There is quite a lot to do in the local area and most people could easily spend two days here walking, visiting the beach and exploring the nearby river. 

Specifications:

Day shelter with seating, watertank from roof, and flush toilets. There is a campsite nearby with showers and a new ablution block. 

So there you go all the huts and shelters you are likely to encounter along the Heaphy Track. There are some real beauties on this track and DOC has provided a variety of huts and campsite shelters for you to stay at while you are walking or riding the track. 

Kahurangi NP: Heaphy Track, Day 2-3: Perry Saddle Hut to James Mackay Hut:

 ...tussock, rivers, glacial remains and Takahe on the Heaphy Track....

From Perry Saddle Hut I continued westward towards the coast and the Heaphy River. My stop for the second day was at Saxon Hut about four hours along the track. The second and third day are charactorised by the open tussock covered downs you are crossing. Poor soils mean tussock and stunted trees are the only things that grow up here.

It is only 7 km's to Gouland Downs Hut

Day 2 and 3 are moderately easy as the track tends to the flat with smaller hills to navigate at the start and end of both days. You eventually end up at James MacKay which has the first views down to the West Coast and the shining estuary of the Heaphy River...

Day 2: Perry Saddle Hut to Saxon Hut: (5 hours, 12.5 kilometers)

It is 12.5 kilometers from Perry Saddle Hut to Saxon Hut. You should be able to cover this distance in about 3-4 hours hours depending on your fitness and how much gear you are carrying. It took me the full four hours but then I was stopping a lot to take videos and photos and I was in no rush to get there. 

Looking along Perry Saddle towards Gouland Downs

I was the one of first people out of the hut as is my custom and the first person walking towards the west. I didn't see any other people until I got near Gouland Downs Hut so I basically had the track to myself for the first 2.5 hours. 

Mt Perry rises off to the north of the Heaphy Track

The first kilometer is around the side of some shallow swampy tarns in the shadow of Mt Perry. About 500 meters down the track there is a sign pointing out the poled route to the top of Mt Perry. In good weather it would be a great place to get an over view of the whole of Perry Saddle and the two valleys heading east and west from it...

Looking back for my last view of Perry Saddle Hut

There is an unmarked route to the top of Mt Perry...

The track starts off flat but then starts to descend down towards the Downs about 45 minutes into the day. You are in forest for the first hour and a half after which you are out in the open. You are walking down the side of Perry Creek which has cut a shallow valley from the saddle down towards the coast. 

The second day starts off in beech forest...Heaphy Track

One of the numerous side streams along the Heaphy Track

After walking for 20 minutes you are in thick Beech forest. There are four streams/creeks to pass between Perry Saddle and the start of the Gouland Downs...all of them have bridges so the track is all weather. It had been raining overnight so there were a few small waterfalls and rivulets running along this section. All of the water is fine for drinking but I would still treat it just for safety...

First bridge of the day over Ainsley Creek, Heaphy Track

The track slowly descends down towards Gouland Downs...

There are multiple creeks enroute to Gouland Downs Hut...

There are small ridges to climb over at both ends of the Gouland Downs...

First view of the Gouland Downs from near Pt. 1263

 Quintinia Creek is 20 minutes from the Gouland Downs

Nice waterfall near Quintinia Creek, Heaphy Track

After Quintinia Creek you start to climb up to the eastern edge of the Gouland Downs....the gradient is very gentle as you need to gain about 60 meters to get out of Perry Creek. The forest starts to thin and then you turn a corner and find yourself looking out over the strange tableland that is Gouland Downs. 

Edge of the bush and Gouland Downs, Heaphy Track

The Slate Range backs the Gouland Downs

The Gouland and MacKay Downs are the result of glaciation...the soils are very thin over the underlaying limestone and so poor that they cannot support forest cover. They are covered with a mixture of tussock species, sub alpine plants and withered stunted trees. 

Start of the Gouland Downs near Sheep Creek

Here and there are deeply incised creeks and the occasional area of exposed bedrock. There are a few other areas like this in the top of the South Island such as Takaka Downs, the Matiri Plateau, Denniston Plateau and the Tablelands.

The Tubman Range is on the far side of the Gouland Downs

Here is a sign you wont see many places...Beware of Takahe!!! There are wild Takahe in only two places on the mainland of New Zealand...here and in the Jamieson Valley near Te Anau. You will not see Takahe anywhere else so this is the most uncommon sign you will ever see in the backcountry. 

A rare DOC sign...Beware of Takahe!!!

Crossing Sheep Creek along the Heaphy Track

The track is bordered with a variety of sub alpine plants...

If you are walking across the Gouland Downs you need to be prepared for any weather...it can be freezing cold or super hot depending on the season. There is zero cover up here so you will be exposed to anything that is rolling in. I was lucky to have an overcast day but I had my sun hat on from Gouland Downs Hut to Saxon Hut as I started to feel the sun. 

Jon on the Heaphy Track near Pt. 717

The Gouland Downs are a series of flat undulating ridges...

You reach a point just past Sheep Creek where you can see across and down to Gouland Downs Hut...it is tucked into a small area of Beech forest right in the middle of the Downs. Over the next 30 minutes the hut will get closer as you work your way along the undulating ridgelines towards it. There are expansive views up here. In the far distance the Slate Range and further into Kahurangi NP to the Tasman Wilderness Area and Tubman Range...

Gouland Downs Hut is just visible in the near distance...

Saxon Hut is at the left edge of the Slate Range

I passed by the famous Boot Pole Corner...this used to be a very wet and swampy track and people often lost boots in the deep mud at this corner. DOC have improved it over time but there is now a tall pole with blown out footwear attached to it. It is a long way to civilization from here so I'm not sure how people managed to walk to the track ends missing one or more boots....

The famous Boot Pole Corner...Heaphy Track

At closer look at the actual Boot Pole...

The Heaphy Track is passing along the side of Trocadero Creek on the top of a ridge...the track is easy walking as it is flat and well packed down by the MTB's passing along it. Back in the 1980's this was a very muddy section...I like this a lot more!!!

Heading along Trocadero Creek towards Gouland Downs Hut

The one kilometer pole for Gouland Downs Hut

Another thing you will find along the Heaphy Track are giant carnivorous snails...you often encounter them on the tracks as they like to climb out and warm themselves on the exposed rocks. The species is in decline mainly through predation from Weka who love to eat them. 

You will often find their shells in the huts and I saw some shells at Saxon Hut, James Mackay and Heaphy Hut. Do not remove them from the park...there is a $10 000 fine for doing so!!!

The Heaphy Track also has rare Giant Snails....

Better view of Gouland Downs Hut on a distant ridge..

Heading down to the Cave Brook bridge, Heaphy Track

You reach the end of the ridge top track and it starts to descend down towards Cave Brook Bridge. There is a bridge over the river here and some limestone caves with really nice looking swimming holes in the river. I did not partake but if you were staying at Gouland Downs Hut for the night I would absolutely come down for a dip. 

Cave Brook Bridge, Heaphy Track

...I have seen this style of bridge in other places...

These two trampers were the first people I had seen since leaving the hut that morning...They were walking all the way out to the road end that day which was a +25 kilometer, 9-10 hour day!!!

Looking downstream from Cave Brook Bridge

Good swimming holes in Cave Brook...Heaphy Track

You climb up from the river to get to Gouland Downs Hut...it is about 400 meters from the bridge. The track is easy to climb with a very gentle slope up to the terrace the hut sits on. 

Climbing up to Gouland Downs Hut from Cave Brook

It took me about 2.5 hours to walk from Perry Saddle Hut to Gouland Downs Hut and I was the first person to arrive that day from either direction. There were still three people in the hut from the previous night and I had a chat to them about the hut and the track. They had three Takahe at the hut the previous afternoon and they had just left 20 minutes before I arrived so I was bummed not to have seen them. 

Gouland Downs Hut (1957), Kahurangi NP

Interior of Gouland Downs Hut...open fire!!!

Gouland Downs Hut is the oldest on the Heaphy Track as it was built way back in 1957 before the track had been recut and turned into a Great Walk. Back then it was just an old pack track from Golden Bay to the West coast and hardly anyone used it. It would mostly have been Deer Cullers using it...

Gouland Downs Hut holds eight people...

The hut is really nice with lots of old time charm...it has eight bunks around a central open fire and a table, benches and inside water taps over a sink. I would like to have stayed there but it did not fit in with my plans. 

Gouland Downs is the oldest hut on the Heaphy Track

I spent about 15 minutes at the hut before packing my gear and setting off for Saxon Hut which is another 5 kilometers and 1.5 hours walk from Gouland Downs Hut. Over the first kilometer you are walking through a patch of Beech forest along a limestone ridge. 

Heading towards Saxon hut from Gouland Downs Hut

The whole area is full of over hangs and caves and you could easily spend an hour exploring them. As I was by myself I bypassed them...if I had fallen or gotten lost nobody would have known where I was...

There are many limestone caves near Gouland Downs Hut

A short interlude in Beech forest near Gouland Downs Hut

After the ridge you break out into the Gouland Downs once again...you are heading for the western edge and the end of the Slate Range. It was very easy to see the track heading off across the Downs and it is easy travel as the ground is flat and the track good. 

It is five kilometers from Gouland Downs Hut to Saxon Hut

Shiner Brook is between Gouland Downs and Saxon Hut

View up Shiner Creek from the bridge, Heaphy Track

There are a lot of larger creeks and streams on this side of Gouland Downs but as they all have bridges they do not bother you at all. Keep a close eye as you cross as all of these rivers are known for Whio or Blue Duck sightings. I saw a distant Whio in the last of the streams Weka Creek but I think most people spot them in Big River. 

One kilometer past Gouland Downs Hut...just 4 km's left!!!

...you can see the Heaphy Track meandering over the Gouland Downs...

On the approaches to Big River bridge, Heaphy Track

Big River often has Whio (Blue Ducks) in it...

View upstream from the Big River bridge...

I passed my first people coming from the West Coast just past Big River bridge...most people walk east to west so Golden Bay to Kohaihai. They were a young couple who had stayed at Saxon Hut the previous night and were heading for Perry Saddle Hut. 

Looking back to the east you have a great view of the Gouland Mountains and the valley Perry Creek flows out of. 

View back across Gouland Downs to Perry Saddle

Past Weka Creek the track starts to climb...

Past Weka Creek the track starts to climb up off the Gouland Downs and onto the Slate Range. The track gradient is very mild as it is built for the MTB riders and you steadily gain about 150 meters in elevation from Gouland Downs to Saxon Hut. 

Climb up the end of the Slate Range enroute to Saxon Hut

The Heaphy Track climbs 140 meters off the Gouland Downs...

There is a very nice seat about a kilometer into the climb with awesome views out over the Gouland Downs so you should stop for a while and enjoy the views...

Seat on the Heaphy Track overlooking Gouland Downs

The distant Gouland Range from the seat above...

You pass through an extensive area of Dracophyllum Traversii trees on the way up to Saxon Hut. These are sometimes called Doctor Seuss trees as they have the odd shape of the trees in his books with long thin trunks and bushy puffs of leaves on top. I think they are one of the most handsome trees in our forests and always enjoy seeing them. 

Dracophyllum along this section of the Heaphy Track

Lovely benched track climb up off the Gouland Downs

The track heads steadily uphill until almost at Saxon Hut and the raised track has wetlands and mountains swamp on both sides of it. I remember this section being very muddy back in the day and you could see the occasional patch of old track just off to the side now slowly returning to bush...

The track has swamp and mires on both sides...

I eventually made it to the distance marker post for Saxon Hut and was on the last kilometer of walking for the day. You break out into a series of small tussock clearings just before you reach the hut as the track levels out and sidles the side of the Slate Range. 

...it is one kilometer to Saxon Hut.....

The edge of the Gouland Downs close to Saxon Hut

Saxon Hut wardens quarters come into view...

Eventually Saxon Hut hove into view with its bright red roof being the first part to become visible and I gratefully headed over to it to set myself up for the night. 

Saxon Hut (1984), Kahurangi NP

Saxon hut occupies a lovely spot near some beech forest...

Saxon Hut was almost brand new the last time I was here in 1989...it was only four years old at the time and it is still in excellent condition. The shape of the hut is very familiar and it reminds me of other huts around the country including Boyle Flat Hut and Christopher Hut on the St James. It has features of Hamilton Hut and the old Casey Hut as well.....

Saxon Hut: interior of the hut...

It has space for 16 people and is of the one big room variety with two bunk areas with platforms for the mattresses. It has plenty of living space and the hut had a good selection of pots and pans, fry pans and toaster racks for visitors to use. I was generally impressed with the equipment in these huts and all of them could be visited without bringing your own cooking pot. 

Saxon Hut: dining and living area

There is a lovely veranda around the exterior of the hut and a picnic table out the front which I sat at for about an hour later in the day. There is a lot of information around the hut about the local flora and fauna and they had a cut away version of a DOC 200 trap out the front so people can see how they work.

Both trampers and MTB riders use Saxon Hut

Information board at Saxon Hut describing the local flora...

Local version of the classic DOC 200 rodent trap...

The Osprey Atmos 55 at Saxon Hut.....

I was the first to arrive at the hut but the other occupants of Perry Saddle Hut turned up over the next couple of hours on their way to James MacKay Hut. Everyone except myself, Ed and Bella were walking through to James MacKay which was at least another four hours down the track. It would have been a long, long day for them....23 km's and at least 8-9 hours!!!

Jon looks pleased to be finished for the day...

The DOC warden came and cut the grass around the hut in the afternoon when all the people had headed away and it must be like a dinner gong to the local Takahe who turned up about 15 minutes later. He spent about four hours around the hut and only disappeared once it got dark.

A Takahe foraging near Saxon Hut...

Takahe to the rear of Saxon Hut

Weka and Takahe enjoying the freshly cut grass at Saxon Hut

...the Takahe came right up to the door of the hut...

Takahe are one of the most endangered birds in the world with only about 300 in existence. I had been hoping to see Takahe on this trip and I was very, very pleased to see one. The only other place I have seen one was at Willowbank Reserve in Christchurch. We figured out that Ed and Bella had seen eight since arriving in New Zealand which is about 2 % of the total population...

The long rod is a radio transmitter antenna.....

We had a very pleasant afternoon and evening at Saxon Hut and I was especially happy with my choice to stay there when heavy rain rolled in about 2 pm in the afternoon. The people walking to James MacKay Hut would have been soaking wet by the time they got there...if you go walk the Heaphy Track do not walk all the way from Perry Saddle to James MacKay in one day. 

Day 3: Saxon Hut to James MacKay Hut: (4 hours, 12 kilometers)

Day three of the Heaphy Track was another short day...it was about 12 km's or 3-4 hours walk to get to James MacKay Hut. It had been heavily raining overnight which led to some worries about river crossings but in the event everything was fine and it was just a case of covering the distance. 

Leaving Saxon Hut the next morning heading west...

I saw the Takahe one last time as I was leaving it was along the side of the hut foraging in the long grass.

Takahe at Saxon Hut the next morning...

It was overcast and threatening looking as I left but luckily I managed to walk the first hour and a half before the rain started. You head off towards Blue Duck Creek with alternating patches of tussock clearings, boardwalk and Beech forest track. 

The Heaphy Track heading towards the MacKay Downs

Last view of Saxon Hut on the Heaphy Track

In very heavy rain several of the local streams will overflow onto the track and there were multiple warnings in the hut to turn about and return to Saxon Hut if you could not get past the Saxon River about 10 minutes down valley. I got to the bridge over the Saxon River and although it was high there was no reason to return to the hut...

Day three starts out in beech forest....

The weather was sub optimal with rain and low cloud...

Crossing the Saxon River near the hut site...

From the Saxon River crossing you continue down valley towards Blue Duck Creek where the track starts to climb up the side of Mt Teddy. Have a look in Blue Duck Creek for Whio as they are often seen in that area...

Pt. 800 overlooks Blue Duck Creek, Heaphy Track

You gain about 240 meters of altitude on a very gradual climb onto the southern flank of the mountain and then begin a long sidle across to the distant MacKay Downs. The track starts off climbing steeply but gradual levels out into a long slow grind up to 820 meters a.s.l. 

Climbing up above the Saxon River near Pt. 800

On the Heaphy Track climbing up Saxon Ridge

There are many attractive side streams on Saxon Ridge

The track levels off once you get past Mt Teddy and you are basically walking along a sub ridge for the next couple of kilometers on the same altitude line. There are multiple small creeks to pass along this section and small waterfalls are everywhere along the side of the track. 

Sidling along near Mt Teddy, Heaphy Track

Object d'arte on the Heaphy Track near Mt Teddy

More Dracophyllum Trees along Saxon Ridge

It started to rain as I sidled along Saxon Ridge so I had to stop to don my wet weather jacket...I did not need my pants at that point as the rain was intermittent but I did have to put them on a bit later as there was a very heavy downpour as I was walking out onto the start of the MacKay Downs. 

The Heaphy Track is flat along Saxon Ridge

There is a bench seat between Pt. 800 and Pt. 816 along the track that marks the boundary between the Tasman District and the West Coast. This is also the spot of one of the East-West divides along the spine of the South Island. I had a 5 minute break here as it was roughly the half way mark between the two huts. 

Boundary Seat between West Coast and Tasman Districts

There is a view down to the West Coast from just along the track from the seat and I could make out the Heaphy River Mouth about 25 kilometers away. 

First view down to the West Coast and Heaphy River

There are plenty of water sources on the ridge

The high point of the Heaphy Track between Saxon and James MacKay Huts

From the edge of the MacKay Downs to James MacKay Hut you are passing from one tussock covered clearing to another. This area is not as open as Gouland Downs but you could see the similarities with the same plants and alternating areas of forest and open land. The track was waterlogged and I passed a number of swiftly flowing streams and large open swamps. 

Start of MacKay Downs near Pt. 800...Heaphy Track

The track is covered with crushed rock on the MacKay Downs

  You walk along next to Blue Shirt Creek for a while before crossing a couple of bridges and climbing up a ridge to another clearing. It was raining very hard through this section so I only managed to capture a few photos along the way.

Blue Shirt Creek Bridge, Heaphy Track

You can see that this whole area is glacial in nature with kettle lakes, huge erratic rocks everywhere and moraine walls. There was a glacier up here as little as 20 000 years ago and the land has still not covered all the scars of its passage. It probably came down off Mt Teddy which is by far the highest peak in the area. 

In an area of past glaciation on MacKay Downs

The track was mostly boardwalk as you are walking over a delicate alpine bog...and would sink to your knees in mud if there was no platform there. 

There is extensive boardwalk over the MacKay Downs section

Massive glacial eractic rock near Monument Creek

Back in 1989 when I last walked this section I remember it being very muddy even though it was the height of summer. The boardwalks are much nicer to walk over and the bog has started to mend itself after all those years of people walking through it. 

Towards the end you are walking alongside Monument Creek and I could hear some Whio but not see them in the thick foliage along the side of the river. 

Old moraine walls near Monument Creek, Heaphy Track

More swamp and boardwalk past  Monument Creek

Just past Monument Creek you walk over a long section of boardwalk and then find yourself close to Horrible Creek. It is roughly 2 km's to James MacKay Hut from here and there is a rare 2 kilometer marker post on the side of the track. 

Just 2 km's left to James MacKay Hut...

Horrible Creek has been known to flood in heavy rain but luckily it was only ankle deep when I crossed over and continued on my way. DOC should really build a bridge here as you have no place to retreat to if you walked this far and couldn't get over the creek. 

Horrible Creek can flood in very heavy rain...Heaphy Track

One kilometer marker near Pt. 749 on the MacKay downs

The last kilometer to James MacKay Hut flies by and before you know it the roof of the hut comes into view over the top of the surrounding trees. There is a short side track from the Heaphy Track to the hut which has been located on a small knob with excellent views down to the coast from the veranda. 

James MacKay Hut is on the distant ridge...

Heaphy Track...turn off to James MacKay Hut

I was pleased to finally get to the hut as it had been raining for the last two hours and I was wet and ready to have some lunch. It is never pleasant to be out walking in the rain for a long time but at least it was warm rain coming from the West Coast so while I was wet I was not cold. 

James MacKay Hut II (2014), Kahurangi NP

This is the second James MacKay Hut with the previous hut being replaced in 2014 with a bigger and better designed version. We stayed in the original James MacKay Hut back in 1989 and it was a slightly bigger version of Brown Hut right at the start of the track.

On the Veranda of James MacKay Hut....

Hut wardens quarters at James MacKay Hut site

 I was the first person at the hut for the day and I had a good chat with the resident hut warden who was cleaning up after the previous residents had left. she was from Hokitika and had been working over the summers for DOC for the previous10 years. She was super chatty and really perfect as a hut warden....

Flushing toilet for the James MacKay Campsite

The hut has a very nice mud room which is just as well as all of the people who arrived after me had ben walking for a minimum of at least four hours in the rain. After a brew the first thing I did was light the fire so that when the people started rolling in over the afternoon they arrived to a warm, dry hut. All these hut have coal for fuel and while it can be a pig to get going once you have a bed of hot embers it pumps out a huge amount of heat...

At the entrance to James MacKay Hut

Mud room for James MacKay Hut

The hut is in a prime spot with views from the kitchen area and veranda right down to the coast over 20 kilometers away. There is plenty of space in the living area and three separate bunkrooms just like Perry Saddle Hut. There were a set of attached flush toilets right outside the backdoor so there is no reason to leave the hut once you arrive...

Nice cooking area at James MacKay Hut

Benches and wood burner at James MacKay Hut

I love the new mattresses DOC have started putting into the huts...they are much thicker than the old pads and more comfortable to sleep on. I had an excellent nights sleep at both Saxon Hut and James MacKay as I had two mats to sleep on with the huts being only half full...

One of the bunkrooms at James MacKay Hut

Another bunkroom at James MacKay Hut

It was very rainy for most of the afternoon so there were only fleeting glimpse of the surrounding terrain...I bet it is nice sitting out on the veranda on a hot sunny day!!!

Heavy rain over Bluffy Creek from James MacKay Hut

Later in the afternoon the weather cleared a bit and you could see down to the West Coast from the veranda around the hut. It was all downhill to Lewis Shelter the next day and then the final1.5 hours is along the Heaphy River on flat ground. It is 21 km's to Heaphy Hut from James MacKay so it would be the second most difficult day of the trip...

Distant view of Heaphy estuary from James MacKay Hut

Heaphy River mouth is the target for day four....

...it is all downhill or flat to Heaphy Hut....

I quite enjoyed myself on day three even with the rain it was a nice scenic section of the track and I am interested in geology so walking through the old glacial area was fascinating...

James MacKay campsite facilities...

At the peak of the season both the huts and campsites on the track will be filled to capacity...this is one of the most popular Great Walks despite the difficulties getting to the track ends. I was impressed with the very nice campsite facilities each of the sites possessed. They all had water from tanks, picnic tables, flush toilets and a shelter of some design. 

Sinks and water point at James MacKay Campsite

This is a much better level of amenity than you would find at most of the other DOC campsites and reflects their Great Walk status. The flush toilets are a real bonus...no smelly long drops to contemplate!!!

Inside the nice James MacKay Campsite shelter

...there are even seats in the James MacKay Campsite shelter...

The campsite shelter at James MacKay was very nice...it is open sided but it was basically the size of a big 2 person bivouac and had benches, seats and lighting inside. I am surprised they are all open to the air (and the sandflies) but if they were not people would be sleeping in them every night. I'm sure no DOC warden wants to be rousting people out of the shelters every night...

James MacKay Campsite Shelter (2019)

Sign on the James MacKay Campsite shelter

The campsites right along the track were of the platform type and you have to tie your tent down to the platform rather than pegging them into the ground. A free standing tent would be recommended if you wanted to tent on this track as they are so much easier to use on a platform. 

All tent sites are platforms...James MacKay Campsite

I really liked these two days as the terrain you are crossing is beautiful and unique. I really liked staying at Saxon Hut as it is really the kind of hut I like the best in the DOC Estate...sleeping platforms and a centrally located living area. I was super excited to see some Takahe in the wild and it is a moment that will live in my mind for quite some time.

 Anyway there are still two days of travel left so come back and see how the last two days of my trip progressed...

Access: Getting to the track ends at either Brown River or Kohaihai is extremely difficult at this time. Covid has meant that many services are not available. See my post from earlier this year about planning a trip on the Heaphy Track for more detail....

Track Times: Perry Saddle Hut to Gouland Downs Hut 7 km's or 2.5 hours, Gouland Downs Hut to Saxon Hut 5.4 km's or 1-1.5 hours, Saxon Hut to James Mackay Hut 12 km's or 3-4 hours. Total track time of 4 hours on Day 2 and 4 hours on Day 3...

Hut Details: Perry Saddle Hut: Great Walk, 28 bunks, gas cookers, wood burner, woodshed (coal supplied), toilet, water from tank, Gouland Downs: Great Walk, 8 bunks, cooking bench, open fire (coal supplied), picnic table, watertank, flush toilet;  Perry Saddle Hut: Great Walk, 28 bunks, watertank, gas cooker, wood burner, woodshed (coal supplied), picnic table, flush toilet; James MacKay Hut: Great Walk, 28 bunks, watertank, gas cookers, wood burner (coal supplied), picnic tables, flush toilet; James Mackay Campsite Shelter: Shelter, water from tap, benches, sink, flush toilet

Miscellaneous: All huts and campsites MUST be booked before starting the track. MTB riders from April to October. There are several rivers and creeks to cross enroute and some may be difficult or impossible in very heavy rain. 

You Tube link: Perry Saddle Hut to Saxon Hut