Point Kean Track, Kaikoura: 5 February 2023

Waitangi weekend walk in Kaikoura

Kaikoura is a small coastal town about 180 km's north of Christchurch renown for its Whale Watching expeditions, and Albatross and Dolphin encounters. It has an extensive and interesting coastline with seal colonies, great diving and a number of excellent tramping tracks in the local area.

Kaikoura township from up on Kaikoura Peninsula

Karen and I spent three nights in Kaikoura over Waitangi weekend and did a bit of exploring about the town and surrounding hinterland. We decided on the second day of our trip to go for a walk along the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway...this is a cliff top excursion from the seal colony at Point Kean to South Bay on the southern side of the peninsula. 

Kean Point Reef, Kaikoura Peninsula

On the way we stopped and had a look at Point Kean and also ventured out onto the mudstone reef that lies off that point of land.

There are several tracks on the Kaikoura Peninsula

In the event we only walked up to the lookout point at Point Kean as it was 34 degrees and too hot to walk the whole track. 

On the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway:

The Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway is a 2.2 km long clifftop track from Point Kean on the northern side of the Peninsula to South Bay on the southern side. It is approximately 1-1.5 hours one way, 2-3 hours return. The track starts at the mudstone reef and seal colony at Point Kean...there is a large car-park here and toilets.

Toilet block at Kean Point, Kaikoura Peninsula

Start of Kean Point Track

The start of the track is on the southern (uphill) side of the Point Kean car-park and has a map and sign post for the Walkway. The first section is sealed up to a series of observation platforms which look out to the north of Kaikoura and down to the reef at Point Kean. This section is steep but once you are on the top the rest of the track is relatively flat so don't be put off.

The track has switchbacks to several viewing platforms

Kean Point Track, Kaikoura Peninsula

Kaikoura Peninsula juts out into the ocean so it can be windy and cold up here so make sure you have appropriate gear for the conditions. Always take a waterproof jacket and a warm top with you even on a warm sunny day.

Map: Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway, Kaikoura

There are some spectacular views to the north of Kaikoura right along the coast to where the Clarence River flows into the sea. The full grandeur of the Seaward Kaikoura Range can be observed with peaks as high as 2600 meters towering over the narrow coastal plain. 

Seaward Kaikoura Range north of the Kaikoura Peninsula

There is a fantastic elevated view out over the Kean Point Reef and you can really see the extend and detail of the reef from the track.

View across Kean Point reef from the track

Armers Beach and Kean Point carpark, Kaikoura Peninsula

The views get better the higher you climb and the ones from the viewing platforms are really spectacular. Point Kean Reef stretches far out into the sea and is a major hazard to ships going up and down the coast. Since the 2016 earthquake it is much larger as sections of the Kaikoura coast rose by as much as 3-4 meters. Areas that were once under water are now well above the low tide mark.

North along the coast from the Kaikoura Peninsula

Kaikoura Township is back along the coast

Kaikoura Peninsula sits right on the fault line which bisects the South Island so it has always been an area of up thrust action. The peninsula was once ocean bed that has been slowly rising over the millennia to its current height. Some of these were violent thrusts...there are a number of major up thrust areas dating from various massive earthquakes millions of years ago right up to 2016.

Edge of the Kean Point reef, Kaikoura Peninsula

Islands and inlets along the Kean Point Reef

There is a lot of sea-life around Kaikoura as there is a 3 km deep subduction trench a couple of kilometers off shore. The cold deep water is excellent habitat for fish species including krill which attract Seals, Giant Squid, Sperm Whales, Blue Whales, Humpback Whales, Southern Wright Whales, Orca & Dolphins. That is why Kaikoura Whale Watch is located here. 

This is also a major seabird area with Shearwaters, Albatross and various gulls making their home in the area. 

There are people out exploring Kean Point Reef

The track is sealed from the viewing platforms to the Peninsula lighthouse after that it is a grass track until you get to a point above the seal colony at East Head. There are stunning views from the track...out to sea, down to the coastline about 40-80 meters below and north & south along the coast.

Kean Point Track near the lookouts

The highest viewing point above Kean Reef is the best location to truly see how expansive the reef is. It stretches for a good kilometer or more out into the ocean with a number of small inlets criss-crossing the surface. 

Kean Point Lookout, Kaikoura Peninsula

Looking south from the Kean Point Lookout

This whole peninsula is the result of uplift of old ocean bed and there is a good interpretive panel at the viewpoint describing this process. 

Information panel at Kean Point Lookout

There is another panel which talks about how the surrounding mountains have been formed...the collision of two plates have thrust the land up and the process continues to this day. The Seaward Kaikoura's are some of the fastest growing mountains in the world. It is highly likely they will eventually top the 3000 meter mark and would then be some of the tallest mountains in New Zealand. 

This panel discusses the nearby Seaward Kaikoura Range

Distant Seaward Kaikoura Range from Kean Point

If you continue a short distance along the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway you will pass the Kean Point Lighthouse. It is about 100 meters along the walkway and warns coastal shipping of the risk the reef poises. It is a small unmanned lighthouse (as most are around the coast of New Zealand) and I believe that you can see the light if you come up here after dark.  

Heading to the Kean Point Lighthouse

Kean Point Lighthouse, Kaikoura Peninsula

It is an automated lighthouse at Keen Point

About another 50 meters along the walkway we found ourselves at the viewing area for the first bay along the coast. There is a bench seat and an information panel here which explains how the Peninsula was totally covered in thick native bush when Europeans arrived in the region...it was cut for timber or burnt off to allow farming.

Bench seat looks out over bay, Kaikoura Peninsula

You can climb down to this first bay on a steep track a bit further along the walkway or you can walk around the coast to this bay at low tide from Point Kean. Even with the earthquake uplift there are still places where the track is submerged at high tide.

If you visit the colony stay at least 10 meters away from any resident seals as they are territorial and vicious...they are surprising fast on land and they WILL chase after you. 

First bay south of Kean Point on Kaikoura Peninsula

There is a low tide track from Kean Point to South Bay

The Kaikoura Walkway has its own design of track marker...they are large poles with a Koru design around the top. This whole area was heavily utilised by Maori due to the abundant seafood along the coast...Kaikoura literally means food-crayfish which are one of the delicacies you can gather here. Archaeologists have found the remains of the ten Maori Pa (fortified village) sites on the peninsula.

Local track marker on the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

We sat on the bench and looked down into the bay...there were no seals along the coast due to the heat but we did see a couple of divers spearfishing in the bay. My understanding was this is a protected aquatic park but I read later that the park only extends from Whalers Bay around to South Bay. 

Divers on edge of reef on Kaikoura Peninsula

View south along the coast towards Conway River

We turned around at this point and headed back as it was 34 degrees and the sun was almost burning your skin when it touched you. Instead of walking further around the bays we headed back to the carpark. 

View out to sea from the Kaikoura Peninsula

There is a view inland along the spine of the peninsula from along the track and you could see the rolling farmland that covers this area. 

Kaikoura Peninsula looking down the peninsula

It was nice standing on the top of the cliffs as there was a cooling breeze blowing off the sea. Outside of the peninsula it was windless which added to the oppressive heat. I have seen some wild weather in Kaikoura but I have never been here when it is like this. 

It was not that pleasant...

You are about 40-80 meters a.s.l on Kaikoura Peninsula

There were a lot of people out and about with it being a long weekend and there were a lot of tourists in Kaikoura that weekend. The town was fit to bursting at the seam with all the visitors.

More people at the Kean Point Lookout

The tide had come in a bit while we were walking as the reef at Point Kean had started to submerge in places. We got a decent view up the coast from near one of the viewing platforms...we had a murky view of the mist covered Seaward Kaikoura Range to the north of us. 

Low tide at the Kean Point Reef, Kaikoura Peninsula

Return to the carpark is along the same track and all up it takes about 15 minutes each way. 

Descending back to Kean Point carpark

As you can see the Kean Point car park was full of cars...I have not seen it this busy since pre Covid days. 

Good view of Kean Point carpark, Kaikoura Peninsula

There is a good view back towards Kaikoura Township including the tidal flats leading to Armers Beach. The intertidal zone was never as pronounced prior to the 2016 Kaikoura Earthquake but as with most of the coast it was raised by a couple of meters. 

View of Seaward Kaikoura's across Armers Beach

Fishing boat skirts edge of Kean Point Reef

There is a nice area of native trees along the lower portion of the Kean Point Track and it provided blessed relief from the sun. 

Karen avails herself of limited shade...Kaikoura Peninsula

I cannot be sure but I think this might be a native Akeake bush growing next to the track. I know they grow in this area of the coast. It is almost like a Wattle tree and they like dry sandy coastal terrain. The local Maori had both medicinal uses for the tree and the wood was used to make hard digging and fighting tools. 

Native Akeake tree on Kaikoura Peninsula

Native planting along the Kean Point Track

The native bush along the track is a nice way to start and finish the walk and I understand there are long term plans to replant native species right along the length of the walkway. 

Looking at end of Kean Point Track, Kaikoura Peninsula

Moss covered tree at Kean Point

It was a hive of activity at Kean Point, Kaikoura Peninsula

Once back at the carpark you should try going out onto the Kean Point Reef as most of it is accessible when the tide is out. Just be a bit careful around any Seals you encounter and watch the edges of the reef so you don't fall in the ocean. 

Back at the start of the Kean Point Track

If you are ever in Kaikoura I recommend that you at least try the Kean Point section of the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway as the views are fantastic. Go on a warm sunny day without much wind as it is more pleasant than a wet of very windy day.

Access: Kaikoura is approximately 150 km's north of Christchurch on SH1 the main north-south highway. From Kaikoura follow the signs to the Seal Colony along the Esplanade, Avoca Road and Fyffe Quay to get to Point Kean.

Track Times: Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway is 2.2 kms from Point Kean to South Bay, 1-1.5 hours one way. You can return via the same track or there is another track from South Bay Parade to Scarborough Street in Kaikoura. See the information above. 

Miscellaneous: The Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway is a mixture of sealed track, grass track and crushed stone track. The grass sections will be muddy and slippery after rain.  It is over an exposed headland so be prepared for cold, wet and windy conditions at any time of the year. There are water & toilets at Point Kean and South Bay termini but none on the Walkway itself. 

Lewis Pass National Reserve: Lewis Pass Nature Walk

A productive stopover at Lewis Pass

 I had a break at the Lewis Pass carpark on my way to Nelson Lakes NP a couple of weeks ago. I usually stop at the Lewis Pass carpark as it is roughly 2.5-3 hours drive from Christchurch and is a attractive spot to stretch your legs.

At the Lewis Pass Tarn, Lewis Pass National Reserve

  It is sometimes wet and windy but if it is fine it is a awesome spot to explore. There are tracks, lookouts, a day shelter and an alpine tarn here. 

Sign post at the Lewis Pass carpark

I have stopped at the Lewis Pass carpark a number of times over the years but only realised last year that there is a small loop track just off the St James Walkway. It is through an area of lovely sub alpine forest and glacial remains and it is a couple of hundred meters away from the tarn. The track is called the Lewis Pass Nature Loop Walk.

Distant Spencer Range from Lewis Pass carpark

On the way to the Loop Track you pass by the side of Lewis Pass Tarn so if you have never visited the tarn before stop and have a look as it is very picturesque...

On the Lewis Pass Nature Walk:

The first part of the track is along the beginning of the St James Walkway which is a 67 kilometer, 3-5 day tramping trip from here to the Boyle River Valley.  The junction for the Loop Track is about 200 meters from the carpark and heads off to the left...

Junction of St James Walkway and Nature Walk

The Lewis Pass Nature Walk is only 800 meters long and will take you from 20-25 minutes to complete. To start with you are walking over boardwalk but this changes to gravel track as you make your way towards an area of wetlands and rolling moraine piles left over from some ancient glacier. 

Boardwalk at the start of the Lewis Pass Nature Walk

The area around the Lewis Pass has been sculpted by ice and it was in the recent past. There were glaciers in all of these valleys as recently as 8000 years ago and there is much evidence of glacial action all around you. The small humps, rock piles and ridges along the walk are old glacial moraine walls while the shallow wetlands are dried up and silted over kettle tarns.

Silted up kettle tarn...Lewis Pass Nature Walk

Lewis Pass is particularly spectacular in the winter when this whole area will be covered with snow.

Subalpine vegetation on the Lewis Pass Nature Walk

There are awesome views of the surrounding mountain ranges like the Freyburg, Opera, Libretto and Spencer. Many of the peaks around here are from 1600-2000 meters a.s.l so they often still have snow on their tops even in summer. 

Lewis Pass Tops from the Lewis Pass Nature Walk

There are a number of open tussock fields with a variety of alpine plants growing. Most all of this flat ground would once have been tarns which are now dry and silted up. 

View east towards the Lewis Pass Carpark

You will find several informative panels along the tracks explaining the fauna, flora and geology of this area. 

Information panel along the Lewis Pass Nature Walk

The Lewis Pass Nature Walk alternates between gravel path and boardwalk as it winds around the outside of the flat tussock lands. 

Looking towards Lewis Pass from the Lewis Pass Nature Walk

At one point there is a good view of SH7 the Lewis Pass Highway and down along the mountain ranges which border the Lewis River Valley. The Libretto Range runs right along the eastern side of the highway and it is possible to walk from one end of them to the other along open tops...

SH7 the Lewis Pass Highway

This is the edge of the east-west divide so while the predominant tree species is Beech you will also see some Podocarp trees. Beech prefers the drier eastern side of the ranges while Podocarp forest dominates on the wetter West Coast.

Beech forest along the Lewis Pass Nature Walk

End of Opera Range from Lewis Pass Nature Walk

There is an excellent view up the Maruia River Valley from the track and you can see far enough up the valley to see the beginning of the Spencer Range. This is the route of the St James Walkway which hugs the narrow valley bottom till past the Faire Queene where the valley widens out into a series of tussock plains.

The snow capped Spencer Mountains 

There are a variety of alpine plants along the track including Turpentine Scrub, Snow Tussock, Red Tussock, Alpine Lilies and other rugged plants. Many of these can be seen in alpine regions in the South Island including Nelson Lakes NP,  Arthurs Pass, Mt Cook and down around Mt Aspiring NP.

The Lewis Pass Nature Walk winds over glacial debris

Further along the track heads into stunted Beech forest which is the dominant tree species around Lewis Pass. There are Black Beech and Silver Beech here with larger Red Beech further along the St James Walkway. Most of the forest is cloaked in strands of Lichen which gives it a ghostly appearance. 

Moss covers the trees...Lewis Pass Nature Walk

There is a DOC information panel near here which explains about the Beech line...the altitude at which Beech trees stop growing. Above the Beech line is the home of sub alpine and alpine plant species. 

Information panel about Beech forest

The track crosses some more glacial remains just before reentering the forest and there are more moraines and glacial erratic's everywhere you look. The area would be a geologist dream location as there is plenty to explore...

Glacial mounds on the Lewis Pass Nature Walk

Freyburg Range to the west of Lewis Pass

Heading back to the Lewis Pass Tarn

There is a terminal Moraine wall you climb up and over just before the end of the circuit. It is the furthermost edge of a retreating glacier...as the ice melted it left a pile of soil and rocks at the point where the glacier stopped moving forward. In areas like Aoraki/Mt Cook these can be 200 meters tall but here they are 20-40 meters high. 

Terminal moraine wall...Lewis Pass Nature Walk

Lewis Pass is at 900 meters a.s.l so it is often cloudy, misty and raining here. Because it is such a wet environment most of the trees are cover with lichen and moss. You see long wispy beards of moss hanging from the trees right along the Nature Walk

It is often wet at Lewis Pass hence the moss

There is a prominent waterfall coming down off the end of the Libretto Range. It is visible from several places along the Lewis Pass Nature Walk. They only run after heavy rain so are not shown on any topo map but they originate from tarns on Trovatore (1737). 

Looking to the Libretto Range from Lewis Pass

Waterfall falling down off Trovatore (1737)

The track winds its way back towards the track junction and before you know it you can see the end of the track coming into view once again. It is an easy walk but due to the gravel and small mounds it is probably not wheelchair friendly. 

More is the pity.... 

Turpentine Scrub along the Lewis Pass Nature Walk

Back at start of loop...Lewis Pass Nature Walk

Once off the Nature Walk you are back on the St James Walkway for a couple of hundred meters back to the carpark. FYI...I am planning a trip to the St James Walkway for early next year. The last time I walked the track was back in 2015 and I have been contemplating a return for the last couple of years. I would like to camp up at the head of the Boyle River... 

Back on the St James Walkway to the Lewis Pass carpark

The Lewis Pass Tarn is along the bush edge

Even if you do not walk the Nature Walk it is worthwhile coming down to this end of the Lewis Pass Tarn to take photographs. The view back along the tarn and down the Lewis River Valley is very picturesque. 

Lewis Pass Tarn from the northern end

Looking north to the Maruia Valley and Spencer Range

There are a number of other tracks accessible from the carpark at Lewis Pass including the Lewis Tops Route, St James Walkway and Rolleston Peak Route. You can also access the Zampa Tops Route off the St James and it is possible to walk to the eastern end of the Libretto Range near Boyle Village along the top of the range...

Map of the local tracks...Lewis Pass Tarn

There is a trampers shelter at the Lewis Pass carpark with a toilet and water tank. It is intended for those people waiting for a bus or other form of transport to collect them.  While it has over head cover it is a three sided building so you cannot sleep here. It would be a great spot to sit and wait for a couple of hours but the voracious sandflies would require copious sprays of DEET to ward off....

Track to the Lewis Pass Day shelter

Lewis Pass Day Shelter, Lewis Pass National Reserve

Right next to the day shelter is a viewing platform looking out over the Lewis Pass Tarn. It is nice standing here and looking down the tarn to the distant Spencer Range up at the end of the Maruia River Valley.

View from the lookout at Lewis Pass Tarn

The Spencer Mountains frame the end of the tarn

I spent about an hour at Lewis Pass before heading back to the car to continue my journey to Nelson Lakes. It was a productive visit with a nice walk and many photos and film clips captured!

Lewis Pass Tarn from near the shelter

Lewis Pass carpark was very quiet

The next time you are crossing Lewis Pass you should stop and go for a stroll...even if you only go take some photos of the Lewis Pass Tarn you will not be disappointed. It is a lovely area and deserves some of your attention...

Access: From SH 7 (Lewis Pass Highway) a short boardwalk track leads to the Lewis Pass Nature Loop Walk. You can access several other tracks from the carpark including the Lewis Tops Track, Rolleston Peak Track and the St James Walkway.

Track Times: It is two minutes to the Lewis Pass Loop Walk from the carpark (follow the signs). Other tracks are from 30 minutes to several days depending on length.

Miscellaneous: The Lewis Pass carpark is in a high alpine area and as such is prone to extreme weather. There is a toilet and trampers shelter near the tarn available to all visitors. Severe avalanche risk on the Lewis Pass Tops & St James Walkway in Winter/Spring so only proceed if safe (check the Avalanche Advisory website).  

YouTube link: Lewis Pass Nature Loop Track