Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway: July/August 2020

A wet day trip in Kaikoura...

Karen and I went for a short weekend getaway to Kaikoura last weekend...we spent three days in the area doing the tourist thing, walking part of the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway and soaking in the local flavor. 

The main street through Kaikoura in North Canterbury

Kaikoura is a small coastal town about 180 km's north of Christchurch renown for its Whale Watching expeditions, and Albatross and Dolphin encounters. It has an extensive and interesting coastline with seal colonies, great diving and a number of excellent tramping tracks in the local area. Unfortunately it is also known for the devastating 7.6 earthquake that hit this area back in 2016 which it is still recovering from.  

Fur Seal resting on the boardwalk at Point Kean, Kaikoura

We decided on the second day of our trip to go for a walk along the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway...this is a cliff top excursion from the seal colony at Point Kean to South Bay on the southern side of the peninsula. We stopped and had a look at the seals lounging at Point Kean and also ventured out onto the mudstone reef that lies off that point of land. 

The extensive mudstone reef at Point Kean

Point Kean is a tidal area....watch the tides around here!!!

The weather was not good..it was cold, windy and drizzling so not ideal for a walk. We did not mange to finish the whole walkway (we only got to the half way mark) but it was still interesting nonetheless. Surprisingly we were not the only idiots out walking in the rain...we passed a number of people along the walkway who were also out for a day trip.

Kaikoura from a viewpoint on the Kaikoura Peninsula

Despite the weather we enjoyed our stay at Kaikoura...Karen and I have been here three times in the last two years but there is always something new and interesting to do. Anyway why don't we have a look at the section of the Walkway we managed to finish. 

On the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway:

The Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway is a 2.2 km long clifftop track from Point Kean on the northern side of the Peninsula to South Bay on the southern side. It is approximately 1-1.5 hours one way, 2-3 hours return. The track starts at the mudstone reef and seal colony at Point Kean...there is a large car-park here and toilets.

More Fur Seals at Point Kean, Kaikoura Peninsula

The start of the track is on the southern (uphill) side of the Point Kean car-park and has a map and sign post for the Walkway. The first section is sealed up to a series of observation platforms which look out to the north of Kaikoura and down to the reef at Point Kean. This section is steep but once you are on the top the rest of the track is relatively flat so don't be put off.

Start of the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway, Point Kean

DOC map of the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

Kaikoura Peninsula juts out into the ocean so it can be windy and cold up here so make sure you have appropriate gear for the conditions. Always take a waterproof jacket and a warm top with you even on a warm sunny day.

Map: Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway, Kaikoura

We did not have a warm sunny day so it was damn cold once we got to the top of the first track section. We also had intermittent drizzle falling so both Karen and I were wearing warm clothes and jackets.

Karen climbing the rise on the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway at Point Kean

The views get better the higher you climb and the ones from the viewing platforms are really spectacular. Point Kean reef stretches far out into the sea and is a major hazard to ships going up and down the coast. Since the 2016 earthquake it is much larger as sections of the Kaikoura coast rose by as much as 3-4 meters. Areas that were once under water are now well above the high tide mark.

Point Kean car-park, Kaikoura Peninsula...note the reef...

...the start of the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway is sealed...

Kaikoura Peninsula sits right on the fault line which bisects the South Island so it has always been an area of up thrust action. The peninsula was once ocean bed that has been slowly rising over the millennia to its current height. Some of these were violent thrusts...there are a number of major up thrust areas dating from various massive earthquakes millions of years ago right up to 2016.

Information board about the genesis of the Kaikoura Peninsula

The reef at Point Kean, Kaikoura Peninsula

There is a lot of sea-life around Kaikoura as there is a 3 km deep subduction trench a couple of kilometers off shore. The cold deep water is excellent habitat for fish species including krill which attract Seals, Giant Squid, Sperm Whales, Blue Whales, Humpback Whales, Southern Wright Whales, Orca & Dolphins. That is why Kaikoura Whale Watch is located here. 

This is also a major seabird area with Shearwaters, Albatross and various gulls making their home in the area. 

...deep water about a kilometer off Point Kean, Kaikoura Peninsula...

The track is sealed from the viewing platforms to Peninsula lighthouse after that it is a grass track until you get to a point above the seal colony at East Head. There are stunning views from the track...out to sea, down to the coastline about 150 meters below and north & south along the coast.

The Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway heads south from Point Kean

Kaikoura Peninsula lighthouse, Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

This was problematic as it had been raining up here for more than a week. The track had turned into a mushy mess of mud, grass and cow manure as several cattle were loose on the track. It made for slippery going as there are a series of small rises along the walkway and there was no traction even in tramping boots.

Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway: the walkway is grass...

We headed along the Walkway nonetheless and after a short while we found ourselves at the viewing area for the first bay along the coast. There is a bench seat and an information panel here which explains how the Peninsula was totally covered in thick native bush when Europeans arrived in the region...it was cut for timber or burnt off to allow farming.

DOC information board on the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

The first bay visible along the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

Kaikoura Walkway have their own design of track marker..they are large poles with a Koru design around the top. This whole area was heavily utilised by Maori due the abundant seafood along the coast...Kaikoura literally means food-crayfish which are one of the delicacies you can gather here. Archaeologists have found the remains of the ten Maori Pa (fortified village) sites on the peninsula.

Local track marker on the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

Karen and I were looking at the awesome scenery so it took us a couple of minutes to realise that the dark dots we could see down on the coastal rock shelves were Fur Seals. Literally hundreds of Seals...every shelf, rock and point above the tide line had seals on them. There were also a number of seals swimming in the waters of the shallow bay as well.

Seal colony near Point Kean from the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

You can climb down to this bay on a steep track a bit further along the walkway or you can walk around the coast to this bay at low tide from Point Kean. Even with the earthquake uplift there are still places where the track is submerged at high tide.

If you visit the colony stay at least 10 meters away from the seals as they are territorial and vicious...they are surprising fast on land and they WILL chase after you. 

Seal colony resting on low tide rock shelf, Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway...

A closer view of some of the Kaikoura Peninsula seals...

The track skirts along the top of the cliffs for awhile...stay away from the edge as there are a series of bluffs along here not really visible from the track. It was very muddy and slippery here but half way around the bay the track turns to crushed rock so it was easier walking.

...a very muddy Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway after recent rain...

View to East Head from the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

As we got closer to East Head we could see down the coast to Spy Glass Point at Oaro. This is where where SH1 heads over the Hundalee Range to Canterbury. It was murky as there were rain squalls up and down the coast around Kaikoura. 

There is a pathway along here which allows you to go down to the Seal Colony...it would be difficult to climb back up so only go down if the tides will allow you to walk back around to Point Kean.

View south down the Kaikoura Coastline, Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway: at East Head on the Kaikoura Peninsula

We decided to turn about and walk back to the car when we got to East Head as it was starting to rain and we could see the track deteriorated back into the muddy grass at the start of the walk. We were at the halfway point anyway...just about exactly 1 kilometer from Point Kean so it was a good place to turn around. 

Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway: heading back to Point Kean

We headed back along the clifftop track as I wasn't 100% sure we would get back walking past the seal colony at the foot of the escarpment. It was more difficult walking back to the car-park as the slope of the walkway tends downwards and it was very slippery with the rain showers and mud. We ended up walking most of the way back to the sealed track on the grass verges. 

A different view of the Kaikoura Peninsula lighthouse

The tide had come in a bit while we were walking as the reef at Point Kean had started to submerge in places. We got a decent view up the coast from near one of the viewing platforms...we actually had a murky view of the snow covered Seaward Kaikoura Range to the north of us. 

View north along the Kaikoura Coastline

Native planting along the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

It was good to get back onto the sealed part of the track...I would recommend that you don't attempt to walk this track if it has been raining due to the mud. It is safe enough when wet but just really unpleasant. This Walkway would be awesome on a nice sunny Summers day..with the views of the ocean and the cool wind coming off the water. 

Descending to the Point Kean car park, Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

View down to Armers Beach from the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

I am heading up to the Abel Tasman National Park at the beginning of August so I think I will stop off here and walk the rest of the track from the South Bay track end. It should only take about an hour return from there so it would be an achievable walking distance. I have been up to the top of the terrace at the start of the southern end of the walkway and the track surface is crushed rock so it should be a nicer track to walk even if there has been some rain. 

Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway: South Bay to East Head, early August 2020

I went up to the Tasman Region over the weekend to walk the Abel Tasman Coastal Walk once again. On the way through Kaikoura I stopped and completed the southern section of the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway from South Bay to East Head. This completes the Clifftop section of this track.

Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway: car park at the southern termini of the track...

The South Bay entrance to the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

The southern end of this track starts at the caravan area and car park at South Bay Reserve just south of Kaikoura itself. There is plenty of parking here as well as a set of toilets and a basic information center with panels about the local history, geography, flora and fauna.

A Maori gateway at the South Bay end of the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway:toilets and information center at the South Bay termini

View of South Bay from a window in the information Center, Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway: information about the formation of the peninsula

South Bay is where the Kaikoura Whale Watch boats sail from as well as a number of fishing boats and other nature enterprises. I have stayed in some of the holiday homes in this settlement and it is a very nice place to stay with great views of the rugged coastline on this side of the Kaikoura Peninsula.

Map: Kaikoura Peninsula, Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

Carpark at South Bay, Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

It is approximately 2 kilometres from the car-park to East Head which is the furthest point Karen and I reached when we were last here. It took me about 1.5 hours total to walk to East Head and back to the car. Conditions were perfect...sunny clear weather with only the slightest of breezes. Track conditions were much better as it has not rained in the area for a couple of weeks and the wet muddy tracks had dried out nicely.

A map of the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway at South Bay

Closer view of the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway map

Another Maori carving at South Bay, Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

Causeway at the southern end of the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

Looking across South Bay to Atia Point, Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

The first part of the track is paved so it is easy walking and wheel chair compatible. At the far end of South Bay the track starts to climb up to the top of the cliffs along Atia Point and basically stays at that level until you reach Point Kean at the other end of the track.

Paved path at South Bay, Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

The Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway climbs up to Atia Point

View of South Bay from Atia Point, Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

I saw quite a few people out walking the track on the day as it was so lovely...mostly Kiwis but I  also heard a couple of European accents so there are still a few tourists in the country. Most of the people out walking were older...probably retired folk on their morning constitutional.

Still climbing Atia Point, Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

Atia Point and a distant Hunderlee Range, Kaikoura

 There is an excellent view point at Atia Point just off the Walkway with awesome views south along the coast...

Heading to the Atia Point view point, Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

View south from Atia Point at South Bay, Kaikoura

Information panel at the Atia Point lookout, Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

From the lookout the South Bay Lookout Track continues to head to the north just behind the no-name rise at the back of Atia Point. The first section is in native bush heading towards a crossing point onto farmland a couple of hundred meters along the track. This track is rougher and is a combination of gravel and grass....

Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway: gravel track heading to the high land behind Atia Point

The South Bay Lookout Track is bordered with native plantings...

On a warm sunny day this track is a real cracker as there is plenty to look at as you walk along. The ocean and mountains looked really awesome against the clear blue sky.

Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway: crossing farmland at the southern end of the track...

First view of the predator fenced area for the Titi/Huttons Shearwater colony...

Great views of the Seaward Kaikoura Range from the South Bay Lookout Walk

A stile crossing back onto the Clifftop Track, Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

Visibility was good so you could see right up the coast in both directions for some distance. You can clearly see Oaro to the south and the area around the Clarence Bligh to the north from points along the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway.

Atia Point from further along the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

There were a lot of seals along the coast clearly visible from the clifftop track...I didn't walk down to the beach as I still had four hours driving to get to Motukea but I think the next time I am in Kaikoura I will do that walk around the coastline as it looked interesting.

The coastal flats between Atia Point and East Head, Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

View to Oaro from near East Head, Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway: view of Mt Fyffe from near East Head

There is a set of stairs just past the lookout at East Head which lead down to the coast. If you walk down here at low tide you can walk back to South Bay around Atia Point. Do not try this at high tide as the ocean comes right into the cliffs and you could end up washed out to sea or trapped for 6-7 hours while you wait for the tide to go out.

If you go north along the coast you can walk all the way to Point Kean but once again only at low tide. If heading either way steer clear of the Fur Seals (you are supposed to be at least 10 meters away from them...) as they are aggressive and can move fast even on land.

Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway: the track from East Head down to the coast

Seal colony around East Head on the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

One of the unique track markers on the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

I turned around just past East Head and headed back along the same track on my way to the car park at South Bay. I could see a number of people down on the coast track walking back around to Point Kean. Again, this route can only be walked at low tide as there are a couple of points where the ocean comes in close to the cliffs.

Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway: view out to sea from near East Head

People walking along the coast back to Point Kean, Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway...at low tide you can walk around Atia Point...

 If you are here at low tide and during the mating season (...now through November....) there are literally hundreds of seals lounging on the rocks from Atia Point to Point Kean.

Fur Seals were once endangered but strict protection and habitat conservation means the numbers have risen dramatically in the last 40 years. It is now common to see seals all the way around the South Island and they are starting to colonise coastal areas of the North Island as well.

There is a predator proof fenced enclosure near the track for the endangered Titi/Hutton's Shearwater which nest along this coast. Their numbers are low due to habitat destruction and pests.This is the only place in the world where these birds nest so they are one of the most protected birds in New Zealand with hefty fines for those who interfere with them.

Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway: exposed coastal shelf near East Head

Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway: the Titi/ Huttons Shearwater enclosure near Atia Point

There were a number of other walkers on the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway...

Closer view of the Atia Point Shearwater colony, Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

Information panel about the endangered Titi/Huttons Shearwater

There is a joint task group working on increasing Titi numbers...

Their breeding season is from August to November so I could see a number of them within the enclosure, flying around it and on the rocks along the coastline.

A Titi/Huttons Shearwater sunning itself at South Bay, Kaikoura

There are also colonies of various other seabirds along this coastline including a number of Gull, Tern, Albatross and Petrels. The abundant sea life in the deep trench just off the coast provides plenty of food for a number of species.

Since the Kaikoura Earthquakes this whole coastline is a protected marine reserve so no diving or food gathering is allowed except for customary gathering rights for the local Iwi.

The reefs around East Head are home to many types of Gulls, Terns and Petrels

Information about the Kaikoura sea bird population...

East Head as seen from near Atia Point, Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

When you get to the point below you have the option of walking along the fence-line and over the small hill or around the hillside on a farm track. I walked around the side of the hill as it was still a bit slippery but I imagine the view from the top of the hill is awesome....your choice really!!!

Crossing back into the farmland near Atia Point, Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

Green pasture and mountain views on the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

...someone lost their beanie on the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway...

On farmland heading for South Bay, Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

Once past Atia Point it was back on the paved footpath and down to the car-park at South Bay...

Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway: on the way back to South Bay

Back on the paved track at South Bay, Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

Low tide at South Bay, Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

Extensive tidal shelf along the South Bay Coast, Kaikoura...

If you do not want to follow the same track back to South Bay there is another section of the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway which links South Bay and the Kaikoura town center. This track joins Scarborough Street and South Bay Parade which means you can do a loop of the eastern end of the peninsula. I have walked over this track before and it is steep on both sides and takes about 50 minutes (3.9 kilometers) one way.

The southern terminus of the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway at South Bay

I would recommend that you tramp the inland section first and then do the cliff top section as the cliff section is easier at the end of a long walk. It takes about 50 minutes to walk to Point Kean from Kaikoura so you would be looking at a 12 km, 3-4 hour round circuit.

Map: South Bay Track from South Bay to Kaikoura Township

To get to the South Bay Track you head back along South Bay Parade for about a kilometre to a DOC walkway sign. The track then heads up and over the central section of the Kaikoura Peninsula across farmland with excellent views of the Seaward Kaikoura Range.

The next time I am in Kaikoura for a couple of days I will walk over this section of the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway and write a post about it...

The Silver Surfer at the South Bay Reserve car-park, Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

From the reserve head onto South Bay Parade....

Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway: head along South Bay Parade...

The South Bay Track starts at this sign...

South Bay Track from South Bay Parade to Scarborough Street

If you are ever in Kaikoura I recommend that you at least try the clifftop section of the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway as the views are fantastic. Try to go on a warm sunny day without much wind as it sure was more pleasant than the wet, cold and windy conditions Karen and I the last time we were here.

Access: Kaikoura is approximately 150 km's north of Christchurch on SH1 the main north-south highway. From Kaikoura follow the signs to the Seal Colony along the Esplanade, Avoca Road and Fyffe Quay to get to Point Kean.

Track Times: Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway is 2.2 kms from Point Kean to South Bay, 1-1.5 hours one way. You can return via the same track or there is another track from South Bay Parade to Scarborough Street in Kaikoura. See the information above. 

Miscellaneous:The Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway is a mixture of sealed track, grass track and crushed stone track.The grass sections will be muddy and slippery after rain.  It is over an exposed headland so be prepared for cold, wet and windy conditions at any time of the year. There are water & toilets at Point Kean and South Bay termini but none on the Walkway itself.