Adventure trips in Abel Tasman National Park
Abel Tasman National Park is one of my favorite tramping destinations in the whole of New Zealand. Abel Tasman National Park sits in the top north west corner of the South Island and is in the Tasman/Golden Bay area. The closest towns to the park are Motueka, Kaiteriteri and Marahau to the south and Takaka to the north. There are roads to several trail ends including those at Marahau, Canaan Downs, Wainui and Totaranui all points around the edge of the national park.
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| Totaranui Beach, Abel Tasman National Park |
The park is one of the smaller national parks in New Zealand at 235 square kilometers and consists of a long coastline indented with off shore islands, sandy bays, tidal inlets and golden beaches. The land rises to over 1200 meters a.s.l in the interior of the park and it is deeply incised by long bush clad river valleys leading down to the ocean.
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| Looking down on Anchorage and Torrent Bay, Abel Tasman NP |
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| Map of Abel Tasman National Park |
There are a number of larger rivers such as the Marahau, Falls River, Awaroa and Torrent river. There are several large inlets along the coast including Wainui, Awaroa, Torrent Bay and Anchorage with one of the highest tidal differences in New Zealand at near 4 meters.
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| Tidal crossing at Awaroa Inlet, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
All three of the great European navigators (Abel Tasman, d'Urville and Cook) visited this area of the coast in the pre-colonial era and the coast featured many attempts at farming, logging and mining up to recent times. In the mid 1940's a group of naturalists and nature loving locals spearheaded a campaign to have the area turned into a National Park. Largely due to the stubborn will of a famed local conservationist Perrine Moncrief and her husband Abel Tasman National Park was duly gazetted in 1948.
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| Adele Island and the Astrolabe Roadstead, Abel Tasman NP |
The park has grown in size since then with regular additions of land over the years and a complimentary Marine Park has also been included from Fisherman Island north to Wainui Inlet. In concert with the growth of the park extensive re-forestation and pest eradication programs are slowly returning the park to a reasonably healthy state.
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| The Abel Tasman Coast Track has many vistas like this... |
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| ...meanwhile the Abel Tasman Inland Track is in thick forest!!! |
Abel Tasman National Park is one of the most popular parks in New Zealand and the Abel Tasman Coast Track (one of the 10 Great Walks) attracts over 120 000 visitors a year. Most visitors congregate along the southern half of the Coast Track with lesser numbers north of Totaranui and in the interior of the park.
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| The north end of Abel Tasman NP is quieter...Anapai Bay |
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| There is rugged terrain around Whariwharangi Bay... |
Abel Tasman National Park is characterised by a number of things...golden sandy beaches, dense almost tropical forest, the transition from land to sea and the multitude of adventures possible in the park.
Access to Abel Tasman NP: Marahau/Canaan Downs/Wainui-Totaranui
There are a variety of entry points to Abel Tasman National Park from the South, West and North and most of the coastline can be accessed by watertaxi's based in Marahau and Kaiteriteri.
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| Watertaxi's arriving at Totaranui Beach, Abel Tasman NP |
Marahau is on the southern border of the park and there is walking access from here along both the Coastal Track and the more rugged Inland Track. Additionally, Marahau is the home of Aquataxis Abel Tasman and Marahau Watertaxi so there is a constant bustle of boats leaving to head north along the coast. This is the best entry point to any of the beaches from Tinline Bay right through to Anchorage.
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| Marahau is the southern entry point to Abel Tasman NP |
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| Marahau is home to Aquataxi Abel Tasman... |
To the west of the park lies the Cannan Downs...this is an area of open grassland, rocky tors, bluffs, karst ridges and caves including the largest in New Zealand Harwoods Hole. There is a gravel road into Cannan Downs from just off the summit of the Takaka Hill and this area can also be reached using a side track off the Inland Track.
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| Part of the Canaan Road, Takaka Hill, Abel Tasman NP |
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| Harwoods Hole, Abel Tasman NP..longest cave in New Zealand |
The third access point is from the north and is a dual entry point...Abel Tasman NP can be reached by foot from Wainui Inlet with a track over Gibbs Hill to both the Inland Track and Whariwharangi on the Coast Track. Whariwharangi is at the extreme northern end of the Abel Tasman Coast Track.
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| Wainui Inlet is an entry point to Abel Tasman NP |
Anatimo near Wainui is also the start of the road to Totaranui campground which is the only part of the coast in the national park directly accessible by car. Totaranui is a huge DOC campground with over a hundred sites and is usually jam packed over long weekends and the Christmas-New Years period.
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| Totaranui Road runs from Anatimo to Totaranui Campground... |
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| Entrance to Totaranui camp ground on Totaranui Road |
FYI: There is another watertaxi service based in Kaiteriteri called Wilsons Abel Tasman...they land at all of the larger beaches right along the coast. They do not land at the smaller campsites as their boats are large catamarans and have too deep a draught.
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| A Wilsons Abel Tasman catamaran drops passengers at Torrent Bay... |
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| Wilsons bigger vessels sometimes mean you wade ashore... |
The water taxis do not venture into the northern park of the park past Totaranui as the seas are usually far too rough to allow them to safely go there.
Tramping opportunities in Abel Tasman NP
Lets turn our attention to some specific tramping activities that you can enjoy while visiting the park starting with the most popular and obvious the Abel Tasman Coastal Track...
Abel Tasman Coast Track:
When you talk about Abel Tasman National Park most people will tend to think of the coastline...golden sandy beaches, turquoise water, tidal inlets and wide ocean vistas. Probably a good 80% of all visitors will only ever visit the coast of the park...they neither know about or care for the many other attractions the park has to offer.
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| Totaranui Beach with Skinner Point in the distance |
The Abel Tasman Coast Walk is one of our 10 Great Walks and it is absolutely beautiful. I have enjoyed this track many times and discover something new each time I visit. Many other people feel the same...it is the second most popular walk in New Zealand behind the Tongariro Alpine Track and gets tens of thousands of visitors every year. There are less visitors this year due to Covid-19 but the park is still busy with trampers, walkers, kayakers, sightseers and runners mostly from New Zealand.
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| Abel Tasman NP is a great sea kayaking destination |
You have several options for accommodation on this track...lodges, camping and DOC huts.
There are expensive and luxurious lodges at Awaroa, French Bay, Torrent Bay and Anchorage which can be accessed from the track and also using the watertaxi services. I have never used this option myself as the DOC huts on the Coast Track are in good condition and good enough for me.
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| Awaroa Lodge, Abel Tasman National Park |
The lodges at Awaroa and Anchorage have dining facilities while the private lodges at French Bay & Torrent Bay are self service only. If you fancy it you can stop for a meal at Awaroa Lodge for dinner or lunch...there is a track around the coast to the lodge from Awaroa Hut.
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| Awaroa Lodge: the restaurant attached to the lodge... |
Because this is a Great Walk the DOC huts are larger and more lavishly appointed than other more plebian tramping tracks. They have features like solar lights, flush toilets, filtered water and great scenic locations. They also have a resident hut warden over the period October to April to manage and inform the surging mass of people who visit during that time.
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| The palatial 32 bunk Anchorage Hut, Abel Tasman NP |
You can stay in a DOC hut at Anchorage, Bark Bay, Awaroa and Whariwharangi at the northern end of the park. All need to be pre booked so make sure you check hut availability before planning any trip and get in early to secure spots over long weekends and the Christmas break. I usually pre book my visits in July when they first open but outside the period from November to April you will always find bunks available.
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| Bark Bay Hut is my favorite on the Abel Tasman Coast Track |
Camping is just as good along the Coast Track...beautiful beach side campsites with cooking shelters, fire pits and fresh water. There are over 20 campsites to choose from ranging from small sites in secluded bays right up to the massive campsites at Anchorage, Totaranui and Whariwharangi. There are some campsites only accessible from the water by either kayak or watertaxi so you could stay at a site completely alone.
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| Abel Tasman NP: Akersten Bay has a small 3 tent campsite... |
I actually think this could be the best park in all of New Zealand for camping...if you have ever wanted to camp on a Great Walk then this is the one to visit. In the summer the campsites will be full of visitors but Nelson-Tasman has some of the best weather in the country so even in autumn and spring camping is still possible. Again...because it is a Great Walk campsites must be booked and you are discouraged from wild camping.
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| The campsite at Mutton Cove in late August 2020.... |
You can join the Abel Tasman Coast Track from Marahau in the south and Wainui in the north. The other option is to take a water taxi from Marahau or Kaiteriteri to one of the beaches. They land at many places along the coast and they make short trips along sections of the track a possibility. I have used this option myself in the past....
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| A Wilsons watertaxi landing passengers at Totaranui... |
Abel Tasman NP has one of the highest tidal ranges in the country at nearly 4 meters. This means that some beaches and tidal inlets cannot be crossed at high tide so any trip on the Coast Track must take this into account. Walking the Coast Track allows you the option of crossing tidal inlets including Awaroa and Torrent Bay which is one of the unique features of visiting this track.
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| Karen crossing a low tide Awaroa Inlet back in 2019... |
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| Abel Tasman NP: Awaroa Inlet at high tide... |
A typical day on the track will see you crossing 1-2 ridges interspaced with time spent walking in the coastal forest or along the beaches. None of the climbs are overly strenuous with the highest point south of Totaranui being 200 meters asl on the climb out of Anchorage. Most of the rest are usually long sidles rather than steep climbs. The exception is the Gibbs Track between Wainui and Whariwharangi at the northern end of the park. This rises to about 250 asl and is steep on both sides of Gibbs Hill.
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| View of Totaranui from the ridge at Skinners Point |
This is a moderate track and is suitable for most people with some degree of walking fitness...I have seen very young children and older folk here. I have even seen people in walking sandals tramping this track!!! That said you are climbing hills and walking long distances some days so this is not a cake walk. The track is in excellent condition with bridges over all streams and rivers and a smooth, flat and well maintained surface...
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| Abel Tasman Coast Track...typical track condition... |
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| The Falls River swingbridge, Abel Tasman Coast Track |
My favorite sections are north of Totaranui and between Bark Bay and Anchorage as they both feature areas of virgin coastal forest. There are many side trips off the main track worth considering and I would recommend the tracks to Separation Point, Skinners Point, Yellow Point, Cleopatra's Pools and Pitt Head if you have the time. The walk from Anchorage to Te Pukatea Bay is also lovely if you have enough energy once you reach the Anchorage.
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| Te Pukatea Bay is accessible from Anchorage via the Pitt Head Track |
The Abel Tasman Coast Track is a awesome experience and should be on the 'to do list' of every New Zealander. It is probably my second favorite tramp I have completed and I plan a trip to the Coast Track every year.
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| Abel Tasman Coast Track: Whariwharangi Bay |
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| Rugged Whariwharangi Beach in Abel Tasman NP |
If I lived in the Nelson-Tasman region I would be in the park every weekend....I like it that much!
Abel Tasman Inland Track:
While the Abel Tasman Coast Track gets all the glory there is another multiday tramping track in the park. This is the Inland Track into the rugged mountains in the interior of the park. The Inland Track follows the crest of Evans Ridge and the whole track is approximately 42 kilometers from end to end.
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| Evans Ridge from the Awaroa mudflats, Abel Tasman NP |
The Inland Track can be tramped in both directions just like the Coast Track...north to south and vice versa. Most people will walk from Marahau to Totaranui as this allows for the best flow over the terrain although the difference between the directions is slight.
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| Wainui Inlet from near Gibbs Hill, Abel Tasman NP |
This is not an easy walk like its neighbor the Coast Track...this track is type two fun....not fun at the time but fun in your memory. It is damn steep regardless of your direction of travel with a lot of up and down travel and a punishing decent at the end of the last day. The track can be rough as guts and very eerie if there is any low cloud as it blankets the thick moss covered forest that runs from Holyoake Clearing right down to the Pigeon Saddle carpark.
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| Thick forest along the Inland Track from Awapoto to Castle Rocks hut |
The huts up here are older and not able to be booked but they are nice especially Awapoto and Castle Rocks Hut. There is also a small bivy at Holyoake Clearing and a shelter hut at Moa Park. Always bring a tent in case the huts are full. A lot less people visit the interior of Abel Tasman NP so you will probably be on your own for most of the time. You need to be prepared for this with good skills, equipment and fitness.
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| Many destinations possible from Pigeon Saddle, Abel Tasman NP |
To be frank I find this track a little creepy and I have talked to other people (who have also been there) who say the same thing. It is probably just being by yourself in a dark misty forest on the top of a rugged mountain but the atmosphere is strange. Like something bad happened there and the stink of the badness is still over everything. Other spots I have felt like this was walking through Cannibal Gorge on the St James Walkway, those old Chinese mining settlements around Cromwell and in Te Urewera Forest in the North Island. There is some kind of bad psychic miasma about them all.
I believe that some places just arent right...not evil per see...just off. I think the country along the Inland Track feels like that...off!!!
I read too many Stephen King books when I was younger...
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| Near Pt. 540 on the Inland Track with view to Gibbs Hill |
That said there are many reasons to tramp this track. There are some staggering views from along the track especially at the northern end near Awapoto Hut and on the decent down to Pigeon Saddle. The area around Moa Park is strange and interesting like something from the Jurassic era.
On a warm sunny day the deep forest is cool and inviting rather than ominous...and if solitude is your thing you will be in heaven. It is also a challenge so the feeling of achievement you will have when you finish will make up for any pain getting there.
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| Awaroa Inlet from near Awapoto Hut, Abel Tasman NP |
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| Awapoto Hut on the Inland Track, Abel Tasman NP |
There are several different entrances onto the Inland Track. From north to south...the first is via Totaranui and the Gibbs Hill Track. From Totaranui campgrounds you take the track to Gibbs Hill and then follow a track over farmland and bush to Pigeon Saddle. This is the northern start of the Inland Track and you walk south across Evans Ridge from here. I used this route during a failed tramp on the Inland Track back in 2018.
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| On the track to Gibbs Hill, Totaranui, Abel Tasman NP |
Gibbs Hill Track also leads to Whariwharangi thus making a circuit of the Inland Track and Coast Track possible. This would take you 5-7 days and covers over 90 kms in total. If you are considering this I would walk the Inland Track first...Marahau to Whariwharangi and then along the coast back to Marahau.
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| Inland Track-Gibbs Hill Track Junction, Abel Tasman NP |
Next is the Gibbs Hill-Inland Track junction on Pigeon Saddle. This is on the Totaranui Road at the apex of the gravel road down to the campgrounds with Awapoto Hut approximately three hours walk from this point. This is only really useful as an entrance point for an in and out trip to Awapoto Hut as you would need to drive or hitch to this point as there is no public transport to Totaranui.
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| Inland Track: Pigeon Saddle entrance |
The hardest access point to the Inland Track starts at Torrent Bay just past the bridge over the Torrent River. There is a track from the Torrent Bay Track up to Holyoake Clearing and from there onto the Inland Track itself. I'm not sure why you would use this option...it is a steep, rugged, barely maintained track and is at least an hour longer than any of the other access tracks.
Might be good for an unusual way off the Inland Track...
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| Inland Track: Torrent Bay entrance |
An easier option is the side track from the Coast Track close to the Anchorage Access Track junction. This track goes up to Holyoake Clearing as well and takes about 2.5 hours to cover the four odd kilometers. Looking at a topo map this looks to be more of a steady climb than the more direct punishment meted out by the other steep access points.
Worth considering as a route from Anchorage...
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| Inland Track: Anchorage Access Track entrance |
The main entrance to the Inland Track is between Tinline Bay and Coquille Bay on the Abel Tasman Coast Track. There is a turn off to Holyoake Clearing and Castle Rock Hut up a steep, steady climb. This is the southern most access point for the Inland Track and the one the majority of trampers use. Three hours to Holyoake Clearing all of which is savagely uphill...
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| Inland Track: Tinline Bay entrance |
Out to the west of the park is Canaan Downs and it is possible to access the Inland Track from the campsite along the Wainui Saddle Track up to Moa Park. This is a possible day walk and the easiest of the many ways you can get onto the Inland Track. From here you can walk south to Mt Evans, Porter Rock or Castle Rocks Hut or north to Awapoto Hut, Gibbs Hill and Totaranui.
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| Canaan Downs from the Wainui Saddle Track, Abel Tasman NP |
The Inland Track is a very different beast than the more popular Coast Track. It is real Kiwi tramping country and while not technically difficult it is hard tramping through some rugged terrain. Don't take it lightly and if venturing up here make sure you have the skills, equipment and fitness required to stay safe.
Canaan Downs:
Canaan Downs Scenic Reserve can be accessed from SH 60 over Takaka Hill...there is a 13 kilometer long gravel road from here to the Canaan Downs Campsite. The road is steep, narrow and winding and while it can be driven in a two wheel drive vehicle a four wheel drive is preferred.
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| The carpark and campsite at Canaan Downs, Abel Tasman NP |
There are a number of things to do from Canaan Downs including camping at the road end. There are a number of walking routes and tramping tracks in the area to Mt Evans, Moa Park on the Inland Track, the Remeka Track and also along the Wainui Valley to Wainui Hut. Wainui Hut is an older building with 4 bunks set in a clearing with several aviaries used for a native bird release programs.
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| Wainui Hut, Wainui Track, Abel Tasman NP |
Another feature of the area are the many limestone cave systems which cover the whole of Takaka Hill. The largest of these is Harwoods Hole which at 167 meters deep is one of the deepest and longest cave systems in the Southern Hemisphere. Entry to Harwoods Hole is for experienced and well equipped cavers as it takes special skills to enter and successfully exit a cave system of this size. There are many other caves, crevices and sink holes here so take extreme care if walking off the tracks.
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| Cavers deep inside Harwoods Hole, Canaan Downs |
A new feature of Canaan Downs are a series of MTB tracks built in the area over recent years. DOC have a well developed track network now with paths right around the Downs and links to other tracks heading down towards Takaka and down to the Motueka area. MTB riders are big business in the Nelson/Tasman area with a lot of effort and cash being spent through the region.
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| There is a MTB network around Canaan Downs, Abel Tasman NP... |
So you can see that Canaan Downs has much to offer the outdoors person with camping, caving, walking, tramping and MTB riding. The next time you are up here and if you think you can handle the Canaan Downs Road you should consider a visit to the area.
Wainui Bay:
The northern border of Abel Tasman National Park rests in Golden Bay which is the name for the area around Takaka and its hinterland. Acccess is via Wainui Inlet which is the northern edge of the national park. There are a number of tramping and walking opportunities at this end of the park with starting points in either Wainui, Anatimo or the small settlement of Takapou Bay
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| Wainui Inlet from the Inland Track, Abel Tasman NP |
The first of these attractions is the track to Wainui Falls about a kilometer short of Anatimo. There is a nice track to these waterfalls which takes about 40 minutes one way. The track crosses farmland to begin but then sidles along the side of the Wainui River while crossing a couple of bridges enroute.
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| Start of the Wainui Falls Track, Golden Bay |
The river is picturesque and the falls while not enormous are quite powerful even in dry weather and make the short walk to see them well worth the effort. The track is well maintained, flat and suitable for just about everyone with some rock scrambling in a couple of places.
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| Wainui Falls from the Wainui Falls Track, Golden Bay |
The next point of interest is the turn off to Totaranui Road in Antimo a small settlement at the end of Abel Tasman Drive. Here the paved road gives way to gravel for the drive up over the hills to Totaranui Campgrounds. I have covered this route in more detail below when talking about Totaranui Campgrounds.
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| Map: Abel Tasman National Park, Wainui Bay area |
Just past the turn off to Totaranui is the gravel road to the small bach community at Takapou Bay. This community has a lovely beach on the sandspit at the mouth of Wainui Inlet. I have never stayed here but I see there are a number of high end baches and holiday homes you can stay in. It would probably be a great spot for a sunny remote beach holiday over the summer break period.
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| The sandspit at Takapou Bay, Wainui Inlet |
The other attraction is the Taupo Point Track which runs along the coastline for a couple of kilometers to the last rocky spire at Taupo Point. This is just over Taupo Hill from Whariwharangi but due to the rough terrain there is no direct access from here to the hut and campsite.
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| Abel Tasman Point from near Uarau Point, Golden Bay |
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| View towards Wainui Inlet from near Taupo Point |
There are some magnificent views of Golden Bay from along here including across to Farewell Spit the northern most part of the South Island. Be aware that parts of this track are coastal so you may need to clamber over rocks at times and it is not advised to go beyond the official end of the track. There are huge seacliffs past Taupo Point so do not try walking along the coast to Whariwharangi.
You will die and your remains will float off into the Tasman Sea....no I am not joking!!!
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| Taupo Point, from Taupo Point Track, Golden Bay |
The Taupo Point Track is also the start point for the track up and over Taupo Hill to the Inland Track, Whariwharangi and the Coast Track. There is a junction about a kilometer along the Taupo Point Track where you head into the bush and up over the hills.
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| Abel Tasman Point from the Inland Track above Wainui |
From Takapou Bay it takes approximately 1.5-2 hours to walk the 6 odd kilometers to Whariwharangi Bay. This track is steep on both sides of Taupo Hill so it is quite a hard couple of hours walking. The compensation are the stunning views of Golden Bay and the Tasman Sea to the north and west.
The high point of the track is only 250 asl but that is more than enough to see over the minor hill ranges inland towards Kahurangi NP as well.
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| Whariwharangi Bay with Taupo Hill in background |
Once you reach the crest of the ridge coming down off Gibbs Hill you are on the Inland Track. Take the side track to Pt.216 for the best views of the coastline north of Whariwharangi. You can see the full sweep of Farewell Spit, Takaka, the golden sand beaches along the coast and the rugged mountains inland in Kahurangi National Park.
I walked from Wainui to Whariwharangi back in the early 1990's with my girlfriend of the time. We camped at the Whariwharangi campsite next to the hut. The hut was dilapidated then as it was only refurbished later in the 1990's. It was a cool overnight trip...so I have no hesitation in recommending this trip to you.
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| Your first view of Whariwharangi Hut after descending from Gibbs Hill |
If you are ever in Golden Bay you should follow Abel Tasman Drive around from Pohara and explore the northern edge of Abel Tasman NP. I thoroughly recommend the trip to Wainui Falls and if you are a bit more adventurous you should head up over Taupo Hill and spend a night at Whariwharangi.
Totaranui campground:
There are a number of ways you can access the camp ground at Totaranui the first of which is by boat. Both Wilsons and Aquataxi/Marahau Watertaxi have regular scheduled trips to this beach and they both deliver and pick up patrons from near the path down to the beach. You can try to see if there is space available on an arriving boat as they are sometimes half empty on the return leg. It is better to pre book your ticket as the watertaxis will not come this far north unless they have people to deliver/collect.
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| Totaranui Beach, Abel Tasman NP |
Totaranui can also be accessed from the turn off at Antimo near Wainui Inlet. There is a 13 kilometer long gravel road up and over the hills here which allows you to drive to Totaranui. The road is narrow and winding but is kept in good condition as the campground is very popular and used right through the year. It is a easy drive over the hills but do take care and keep an eye out for MTB riders, walkers and other vehicles.
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| Abel Tasman NP: the Totaranui Road at Pigeon Saddle |
Pigeon Saddle is at the half way point between Antimo and Totaranui. The Inland Track starts from here and if you wanted a taste of the track you could leave your car at the small carpark and tramp up to Awapoto Hut. Awapoto is a lovely 12 bunk hut and there are some fantastic views down to both Awaroa and Wainui from near the hut. It is three hours of steep up hill tramping but is indicative of the forest you walk through up on Evans Ridge.
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| Start of the Inland Track on Totaranui Road, Abel Tasman NP |
There are a number of tracks with a trail head at Totaranui...the Abel Tasman Coast Track starts at the southern end of the campgrounds and climbs up to a excellent view point on Skinner Point. From there you can see the full sweep of the golden sandy beach at Totaranui.
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| The DOC office and information center at Totaranui campground |
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| The view of Totaranui from Skinners Point |
Both the Gibbs Hill Track and the northern end of the Coast Track also start here. This is the direction you need to head if you are walking to a pick up at Wainui Inlet. There are also the Headland and Pukatea Walks to the headland between Totaranui and Anapai Bay. There is a nice wetland at the northern end of Totaranui and you can walk around it on a lovely bush track.
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| Map: Northern part of Abel Tasman National Park |
Totaranui Campground is huge..it has over 100 tent sites with scattered facilities like toilets, fresh water and a couple of cooking shelters. There are also pads for camper vans, cars and motorhomes none of them powered unfortunately. The surrounds are lovely with many native trees for shade and well maintained grass to set up your tents on. I have seen a lot of different bird types here including Weka, Pukeko, Bellbrids, Tui, Fantails, Oystercatchers and various duck species.
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| Campsites and ablution block at Totaranui Campgrounds, Abel Tasman NP |
Most of the time the campground is nearly empty but this spot is pumping over long weekends, Easter and over the summer break. Spots must be booked at all times of the year and this can be done online or at the DOC office onsite. There is a phone and toilet block attached to the office as well as a small interpretative display about Abel Tasman National Park. There is very limited cell cover from the beach in front of the DOC office and much better cell cover from Skinners Point.
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| Abel Tasman NP: Totaranui has a number of camping zones... |
If you are walking the Coast Track there is a separate Great Walks campsite zone close to the DOC office with a very fine cooking shelter and space for smaller trampers tents. I used this on my aborted attempt to walk the Inland Track back in 2018 and it is well positioned if you wanted to camp the night before or after you walk the track.
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| The cook shelter in the Great Walk zone, Totaranui campgrounds |
Totaranui Beach is lovely and the ocean is relatively warm over the summer months so this would be a great location for a couple of days camping and enjoying the water.
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| The Totaranui Road leaves the campgrounds, Abel Tasman NP |
Totaranui is a gateway to all that the National Park has to offer and if like me you come to love Abel Tasman National Park then you are liable to visit it many times.
Other activities in Abel Tasman NP:
I have mainly been discussing tramping in Abel Tasman National Park but just like any other area of New Zealand there are a number of other activities possible here.
Probably the most common non walking activity would be sea kayaking along the coast and into the various bays and inlets. Abel Tasman National Park is an ideal location for kayakers...it has many golden sand beaches to visit, off shore islands and large bays protected from the elements.
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| A sea kayak pulled up outside Bark Bay Hut, Abel Tasman NP |
While some people just kayak the coast for a day it is possible to stay in a hut or camp along the coast. There are actually 3-4 small campsites along the coast that can only be accessed by water so this is another option available. I have struck sea kayakers at the huts and campsites at Awaroa, Bark Bay, Onetahuiti and Anchorage in the past.
I have been considering buying myself a sea kayak as this is something I would be interested in exploring going into the future. I could see doing a few trips on inland lakes like Rotoroa, Clearwater and Coleridge as well as sea kayaking in Abel Tasman or around Banks Peninsula.
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| Te Pukatea Bay is a well used stopover for sea kayakers |
Another popular outdoor pursuit in the park is canyoning...this is following a river from head to mouth using climbing, rafting and swimming to travel down stream. The soft sandstone and limestone that underpins the park is perfect for making channels, rock pools, rock slides and waterfalls.
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| Abel Tasman Canyoning tour in the Upper Torrent River |
There are several excellent canyoning rivers up here and commercial operators use both the torrent River and Falls River for expeditions. The main company is Canyoning Abel Tasman based out of the Marahau Aquataxi office. Individuals and groups also come canyoning in the park but this is not a sport to take lightly...it requires particular skills, knowledge and specialised equipment to be safe.
I have done river rafting before but never canyoning...it looks like a lot of fun.
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| Canyoning in the Falls River, Abel Tasman NP |
If you wanted a taste of canyoning I would suggest a visit to Cleopatra's Pool...there are a number of rock slides, cascades and river pools where you can mess around in the river with a degree of safety. It is on the highwater track around Torrent Bay about 15 minutes walk off the main track.
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| People enjoying the rock slide and Cleopatra Pool |
There are several areas where climbing is undertaken in Abel Tasman National Park. The main place is at Harwoods Hole and the surrounding karst country. There are caves, rock tors, bluffs and boulders to be climbed around Canaan Downs. There is also opportunities for climbing on the seacliff's along the coast, at Castle Rock and just outside the National Park at Takaka Hill
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| The interior of Harewoods Hole near Canaan Downs |
Caving is undertaken around Canann Downs especially at Harwoods Hole and its surrounds. The Nelson Speleological Society is particularly active on the Downs but caving is a very specialised sport and your average weekend caver should not be buggering around up here. It is just too dangerous....go with a trained group or have a look for guided tours into the cave system.
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| Cavers inside Harwoods Hole...heading for the Gorge Creek resurgence |
There is a mass of coastline along Abel Tasman National Park so watersports, controlled fishing and boating are all popular. You will see a full range of water craft cruising up and down the coast ranging from kayaks to motor boats, yachts and larger vessels
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| A small boat in Awaroa Inlet on a rising tide... |
There are several spectacular anchorages that available...especially around Adele Island, Anchorage, Bark Bay, Tonga Roadstead and Totaranui. Anchorage is the best harbor along the coast as it is spacious and protected from the wind by big hills on three sides. I was talking to the hut warden at Anchorage Hut one time and he said that they had over 200 vessels there the previous New Years eve.
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| Small boat in the estuary at Bark Bay, Abel Tasman NP |
You seldom see smaller vessels north of Totaranui as you are entering the open Tasman Sea and there is nothing to stop any stormy weather between Australia and here. It is usually rough with high seas, big swell and prone to rapid and dangerous weather changes.
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| A small boat passing along the coast of Abel Tasman NP |
You can also hunt in the interior of Abel Tasman NP and you are likely to find Red Deer, poaka/wild pigs, feral goats and smaller game like rabbits and possums. You would probably head along the Inland Track and head off into the bush or drive into Canaan Downs and explore the more remote center of the park.
I have heard about both pigs and deer being shot along the Coast Track but that would be unusual. Most wild animals avoid humans like the plague and there are a lot of them walking along that track. That said...I have seen pig till along the Coast Track where pigs have been digging for roots and bugs.
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| Wild pig tilling along the Coast Track, Abel Tasman NP |
I hope this information is of some use to you when you are planning your next trip into Abel Tasman National Park. It is a wonderful park and one of my favorite places in the whole of New Zealand. Wither tramping, kayaking, sight seeing or day walking on the coast or inland the park has much to offer.
I hope to see you there sometime...
