Thursday 29 September 2022

Our Iconic Huts: Styles and types of DOC huts

...huts for all seasons...

 There are over 900 public huts in New Zealand scattered from the top of the North Island right down to the Antipodes. The history and origins of these huts are many...some were working huts, some private accommodation, there are historic huts and those built for tourism.

Boyle Flat Hut, an old Walkways Commission Hut on the St James Walkway

I thought I would have a look at the the different types of huts, their origins and how they came to be available for public use...

Working Huts: Musterers huts, water races, rabbit control buildings and farm buildings

Many ex working buildings have been converted into DOC huts over the years. These can range forom farm buildings to water race cottages and include some iconic examples around the country. Many of these buildings came into the conservation estate with the formation of national Parks and the set up of the forest park system. Others were acquired as part of land tenure review.

Top or Bealey Spur Hut, Arthur's Pass NP.
An older example of a musterers hut is Bealey Spur or Top Hut in the Craigieburn Range, an out building that belonged to a long defunct high country station. This hut accommodated shepherds when the local area was used for grazing sheep.


The interior of Bealey Spur Hut

Another type of building that has been converted into a DOC hut are old farm houses. The newest example of this is the old farm cottage on Quail Island, Lyttleton Harbour which is being converted into a 10 person hut.

Otamatua or Quail Island Hut, January 2018

There are also numerous huts on land which has undergone tenure review, where station huts have now come under the aegis of DOC. A good example is Comyn's Hut near Hakatere in the Central South Island. 

Comyns Hut Hakatere Conservation Park, Central South Island

 This is now a 6 bunk hut well utilised by people walking the Te Araroa Trail.


New Zealand Forestry Service (NZFS) huts:

There are a multitude of NZFS huts scattered around the contry. The NZFS was the New Zealand Forestry Service which built the same standardised 2, 4 and 6 bunks huts for deer culling. 

Mid Robinson Hut: a classic largely un-touched SF70 hut

They were scattered along tracks often 3 -4 hours apart to facilitate teams of men who spent much of the 1950's-1970's based at the huts and scouring the surrounding area for the deer that were in numbers and were eating the forest cover. 

Standard set-up inside a SF70 hut: Bunks, zinc bench, louvred windows

...lockable storage cupboard, and veranda/wood storage area...Anti Crow Hut

These huts have a number of the same features namely they had cupboard space for storing food, a fire and tend to be located near a stream. Once deer cullers were found to be ineffective they were removed and replaced by men in helicopters. 

Huts built for scientific study

There are a number of huts around the country that were originally built for scientific purposes. Mostly these were owned by Universities or Technical Colleges but government departments also had huts built for long term studies taking place in remote regions. The scientists needed a place to stay while undertaking their studies with the most basic of amenities.

John Haywood Hut...built to study erosion in the Canterbury foothills


The purposes varied but huts were built to study forestry, erosion, glaciation, endangered species recovery, pest control, river hydraulics and oceanography. Many of these huts were built with features that assisted with their purpose, for example Cupola Hut in Nelson Lakes has a long observation window on one side of the hut. It faces an open high alpine pasture much favored by local Thar. 


Cupola Hut, Nelson Lakes NP....built to study Red Deer and Thar herds

Once the need for the accommodation subsided these huts usually became available for general public use. 

Huts for tourists: Private/THC/Internal Affairs/Walking Commission

Tourism was an early reason for accommodation in the back-country, New Zealand has always had a reputation as a tourism mecca even back in the 19th Century. Tourism has been variously controlled first by individuals, and then successive government departments tasked with getting tourist into the country. 

The Hermitage in Mt Cook National Park

For much of the 20th century tourism was the preserve of the Department of Internal Affairs, they had their own tourism arm called the Tourism Hotel Corporation. For the most part they controlled hotels in the great tourism spots: Lake Rotorua, Mt Tongariro NP and Mt Cook NP to name three. They also controlled many huts & lodges in scenic spots such as on the Milford Track, Milford Sound and Mt Taranaki. Most of the lodges and hotels were sold to private groups in the late 1980's but many of the huts were passed onto DOC when it was formed in 1987. 
  
The chateau in Tongariro was open till this year

The Walking Commission was another government incentive to increase tourism, they advocated for and built huts aimed at getting more New Zealanders into the outdoors. The St James Walkway and the huts along its length are an example of their handiwork. Again they were folded into DOC when it was formed in 1987...

Christopher's Hut, St James Walkway...built by the walkway Commission in the early 1970's

Hut No. 3 is another example of Walking Commission hut

Very few of the originals survive but here and there around the country you will strike an old Internal Affairs or Walking Commission hut.

Great Walk Huts


Some huts are built just to take advantage of the Great Walks at variety of locations around the contry. The first were huts built on the Milford Track as money was to be made guiding people along the tracks. These tracks were taken over buy the tramping community and huts such as Anchorage are the result.

Anchorage Hut in the Abel Tasman...

In the modern world these huts are the home of tourists who are looking for an easy track with not a lot of  hazards causing access problems. While some tourist are fairly exprieneced these hut and tracks offer a more simple experience. 


...Anchorage again...a more classy option... 

You will find few of any New Zealanders on these tracks...they prefer to visit some hard track usually on the West Coast or some other area were there are fewer visitors. 


Club Huts: Tramping and skiing huts

  A number of huts were built by tramping clubs for general use. They tend to be built in places were there is a high concentration of tramping and can range from basic to lavious in the extreme. Examples include Field Hut in the Tararuas, and Aspiring in Mt aspiring. 

Field Hut...oldest continuosly ocuppied hut in the country

Others like Kea Hut in Nelson Lakes National Park are old ex ski lodges which were built for some skiing adventures...they can be either private or public buildings and were built to serve a purpose. When the need for the hut wans the hut becomes general property.

Kea Hut is an ex ski field hut

Kea Hut is located in Nelson Lake National Park

These type of huts tend to come into DOC's care when the maintainence of the hut or connecting track becomes too expensive or hard. There are several huts which are administered by DOC but controlled by a particular tramping club. 

  Memorial Huts: Remember those who are gone

Some huts were built to remember people who ha died in the outdoors. Examples of these huts are widespread and include such hut as Fenella Huts in Nelson and Manson Nichols built here in Canterbury. These huts where built to remember those who went before. 

Manson-Nichols Memorial Hut at Lake Daniell

Another memorial Hut is Fenella Hut in Kahurangi National Park, this hut was paid for and partially build by the friends and family of a tramper who died when the Three Johns Hut was blown off a ridge-line near Mt Cook. Fenella Druce's family raised the money for this hut and assisted in its construction.

Fenella Hut in Kahurangi National Park

These are still being built as the demand for huts has not dimished as the years hare progress. 

Historic Huts:

 Some huts were built to take advantage of trampers going into the bush to enjoy the scenic pleasures. 

Historic Packhorse Hut on Kaituna Saddle

  Packhorse Hut was intended to be one of several huts built on the Banks Peninsula to take advantage of the rise in the popularity of tramping there. It was recently repaired (sice the Christchurch earthquakes) and is open to all comers to visit.

 

Modern DOC huts

The Department of Conversation or DOC have responsibility for the public estate; all lands, tracks, huts and ancillaries owned by the government in the interest of the public. First set up in 1987 they have taken over functions of many previous government departments and are now the guardians of public lands.

Since 1987 they have built a number of huts around the country as well as replacing those that have been destroyed, damaged or reached the end of their useful life.

Magdalen Hut, Lake Sumner FP 2017




  Unfortunately DOC like every other government department are at the mercy of what ever political grouping holds power. At no fault of their own they have suffered from a lack of clear vision, plans are made but then the government changes and they are shelved. They have also been starved fr funds since their inception....DOC controls over 40% of the land in New Zealand yet has an annual budget of less than $300 million to do everything required to maintain the conservation estate.

Anne Hut, St James Recreation Reserve, 2015

When DOC build huts they tend to be focused on recreation and front of country areas...the huts are very comfortable and are build to comply with modern building codes so are insulated, have double glazing and utilise environmentally friendly materials. This means they are costly...a typical 6-10 person hut costs $200 000 a big hut like Anne Hut or Luxmore hut on the Kepler (both 30-40 person) will be $700 000. 

Anchorage Hut in the Able Tasman National Park....modern comforts included!

What this means is less huts ae built and those already in existence do not receive the finances to maintain them properly. Some assistance is provided by volunteer groups maintaining huts/tracks and facilities but this is really only a stop gap measure. Eventually the number of huts/tracks/facilities MUST drop unless sufficient funding is provided. I urge all people who enjoy the outdoors to vote for political parties that 

Public/Private partnership huts

There have always been private back-country huts in this country but they tended to be for the use of a particular group of people: friends, family, members of clubs etc. Many of these huts are run by or administered by trust groups and their numbers are growing each year.

One of the private huts in the Orongoorongo Valley near Wellington

A good example of this is Mt Brown Hut on the ranges around Lake Kaniere on the West Coast of the South Island. A private trust oversaw construction using their own funds, government donation and resources from DOC Westland. It was the first private/public hut collaboration in the country and really pointed the way forward for this type of operation.

Mt Brown Hut, high above Lake Kaniere, Central Westland

Another example is Rod Donald Hut on the Summit Walkway/Te Ara Pataka on Banks Peninsula. The hut was built to make it possible for a 1-3 day tramp to exist from Hilltop Tavern to Gebbies Pass. It and the 100 hectare replanted native forest surrounding it are administered by a trust but are feely available to any person to use.

Rod Donald Hut, Banks Peninsula

In a time of shrinking budgets I think  it is appropriate and useful for private groups to assist with picking up the slack and building huts with a bit of outside assistance. 

The future?

So, where to now....perhaps a look at one of the newest DOC huts points to the future.

The newest DOC hut in the country is Waiau Hut at the head of the Waiau River. This hut was built by DOC with nearly $300 000 dollars donated by an anonymous international benefactor who is a Te Araroa Trail alumni.

Newest DOC Hut in New Zealand: Waiau River Hut, on the Waiau Pass Route 2018

The hut was completed over Summer 2017/18,  it will be the newest hut on conservation land and a vital link between various tramping/climbing/mountain biking trails in the Waiau River Valley. It looks to be built to the same pattern as Magdalen Hut on the mid reaches of the Boyle River.

The standard DOC 6 bunk hut design...Magdalen Hut




Talk about Hump Ridge and Old Ghost Road


Are we likely to see more examples of huts built using bequests/donations?  It is hard to say but it is definitely a possibility going into the future. Certainly if I was ever in a position to donate significant money to DOC I would do so (...for a swing-bridge over the Boyle River at the entrance to the  Doubtful Valley...for safer access for TA trekkers and to provide easier access to this lovely valley...).


The Doubtful River Valley, Lewis Pass Scenic Reserve
 
The Department of Conservation have control of 60% of the land area of New Zealand yet are strapped for money and are constantly pressured to increase revenue from the outdoors. As it is unlikely to ever receive enough resources to do their job other means must be sought.

 

Wednesday 21 September 2022

At the Otira Viaduct Lookout, Arthurs Pass NP: 18 September 2022

 A enviable view on the route over Arthur's Pass

I was up in Arthurs Pass NP last weekend walking the Arthurs Pass Walking Track (post to follow). after walking the track I drove back up to the Deaths corner Lookout to have a look at the Otira Viaduct. I was last here in May when Karen and I were on our way to Punakaiki for a long weekend here is the post about that trip.

The Otira Valley from the Lookout at Death's corner

The Otira Viaduct is an awesome piece of engineering and when it was completed in 1999 it was one of the most difficult construction jobs under taken in New Zealand up to that time. The builders had to contend with extreme weather, isolation, difficult terrain and some serious engineering problems but the project was finished on time and under budget. 


The Otira Viaduct is 440 meters long

It is an inspiring site from the Lookout which is an old section of SH 73 which used to snake up and over the huge shingle scree face coming down off Hills Peak and Mt Stuart. It is the ideal location for a lookout as it has clear unobstructed views down onto most of the Viaduct. 

Looking up to Hills Peak (1645) from the Viaduct Lookout

Waterfall on the southern side of the Otira Valley

Anyone traveling from the east coast to the west coast on SH73 drives over the Viaduct so it is really impossible to miss. You drive past the turn off to the Deaths Corner Lookout so it is very simple thing to stop for a few moments to check out the view. 

View back to Arthurs Pass from the Viaduct Lookout

View to Mt Barron (1730) from the Viaduct Lookout


Once the Viaduct was completed there was no need for the old road so the approaches on the Arthur's Pass side were turned into a magnificent lookout point. There is a sign posted turn off at the old Deaths Corner with views right down the Otira River Valley. You can see about four kilometers down the valley from here with high mountains closely following the route of the Otira River.


The Viaduct is up to 35 meters above the Otira Valley floor

Before the Viaduct any trip over this pass was always a sphincter clenching experience...it was winding, narrow and heinously steep. Many was the older English car that cooked an engine climbing the switchback road from Candy's Corner to Arthurs Pass.


...steep drop off to the floor of the Otira Valley...

V shaped buttresses protect the Viaduct support columns

There are two fine fenced off lookouts here and both have good views down to the viaduct, Otira River and down the Otira Valley. In fine weather or rain they provide magnificent views of this rugged section of the park. 

A word of caution though...do not cross the fences...there are significant drops from the lookout and a fall from here would not be good for your health. 

SH73 is the road over Arthur's Pass

The Viaduct was opened in 1999 by the PM of the day

You can back up to Arthurs Pass from the lookout as it is only about 2 kilometers up to the head of the Pass. You could walk to the Lookout from Arthurs Pass using the Arthurs Pass Walking Track but you would on the road shoulder from the Pass to the Lookout and I cannot really recommend this on such a narrow and very busy road. 

The access road is an old section of SH73

It is interesting sitting up near the Lookout and watching the cars, trucks and Campervans coming up the Viaduct. The gradient is not that bad but it still looks painful...


A series of vehicles climbing up the Otira Viaduct

The lookout is awesome in fine or wet weather and in fact it is interesting to visit in both conditions. The view is much curtailed in bad weather as the valley below often fills with cloud. You are sitting just about 1100 meters here so it is hardly surprising that the weather is dim a lot of the time. 

Rainy day view of the Otira Viaduct

SH73 is a very busy route from west to east

The Otira Viaduct has received many accolades and awards and has secured access across this formally difficult section of the highway. 


Higher water level in the Otira River after rain

Snow blankets the scree slope on Hills Peak

View from the lower lookout platform at Deaths Corner

Winter view to Arthurs Pass from Deaths Corner Lookout

 If you are lucky you will be entertained by the antics of Kea who live in the local area. There used to be big mobs of them here but the most I have seen here recently at one time would be about 3-5. That is the name for a group of Kea...a Mob. Very apt as they will happily dismantle your car/boat/motor bike if you leave them unattended for too long. They act like a bunch of teenage boys most of the time...

Kea live in the local area around the Lookout

Silver Surfer at Otira Viaduct Lookout in winter

I recommend you stop and check out the view for yourself the next time you pass this way. It is an interesting viewpoint and worthy of your attention. 


Access: The Otira Viaduct is on SH73 between Arthurs Pass Village and Otira. The Lookout is roughly two kilometers west of Arthurs Pass itself and is clearly signposted from both directions. There is space here for about 6-7 cars.
You Tube: Otira Viaduct Lookout