The huts of the Heaphy Track...

A quick glance at the huts on the Heaphy Track

 I recently finished walking the Heaphy Track and I thought it would worthwhile to highlight the fantastic array of huts you will find along the track. There are six huts and eight shelters along the track and they provide overnight accommodation and sheltered lunch spots for all the riders and trampers who cover the track. 

Jon on the MacKay Downs, Heaphy Track

I walked the Heaphy Track from Brown River to Kohaihai so let us follow the huts in that direction and find out a bit more about each of them...

Brown River to Perry Saddle Hut:

The first day on the Heaphy Track is the walk from the Brown River carpark to Perry Saddle Hut...it is 18 km's over 5-6 hours...

Brown River Shelter:

First shelter on the Heaphy Track is the day shelter at the Brown River road end. It is a relatively new building built in the last couple of years and has covered seating, a water tank and a set of flush toilets. It is mainly intended as a covered waiting point for people taking transport out to Takaka and Nelson. 

The day shelter at the Brown River carpark, Kahurangi NP

The Heaphy Track starts right next to the shelter and there is an iconic Heaphy Track sign located adjacent to it. I stopped here for a couple of minutes and packed my loose gear before setting out on my journey...

The Heaphy Track begins right next to the shelter...

FYI: DOC have weather information and contact details for transport operators on the walls of the shelter. Most transport from this location needs to be pre booked...see my post about organising a trip on the Heaphy Track...

Specifications:

Day shelter with seating, watertank from roof, and flush toilets

Brown Hut:

Brown Hut is the first hut along the Heaphy Track and is just 200 meters down the track from the Brown River car park. It is the second oldest hut on the track and is often used as the starting point for late arriving people walking the track, overnight visitors and anglers. The Brown River is a noted trout fishery and the shuttle driver and I were talking about fishing in the local rivers on the way to the track. 

Brown Hut (1971), Kahurangi NP

I stayed in Brown Hut back in the early 1990's when my partner (at that time) and I walked into the old Perry Saddle Hut. We spent the night there after arriving late and then set out to the next hut the following morning. I liked the hut as it is super quirky with the stonework around the foundation and the Brown River is very close to the hut. 

Brown Hut has sleeping platforms for sixteen people

I love sleeping platforms in a hut and when I think of a backcountry hut they are one of the images I see in my mind. Brown Hut has these funky deeply varnished ones. 

Nice!!!

FYI: there are camping sites next to and around the hut and there is enough space here for about 10 tents in total!!!

Specifications:

Great Walk Hut: 16 bunks, 10 campsites, water from tanks, wood burner, flush toilets, picnic tables

Aorere Shelter:

Aorere Shelter is the first of the campsite shelters on the Heaphy Track when walking from north to south. It is an open, three sided structure with seating inside and out and is immediately adjacent to the campsite. Several of the older campsite shelters on the Heaphy Track are built to this pattern and it is a very well thought out and useful design. 

Aorere Shelter (1980's), Kahurangi NP

The shelters are built with only three sides to discourage people sleeping in them though I am sure some would do so anyway especially when it is raining. They could do with bug screens across the front as the sandflies are numerous in this part of the country...the open side reduces the usefulness of the shelter.

The inside of the Aorere Shelter on the Heaphy Track

There is a small covered bench with water taps and a sink adjacent to the shelter and this is where the campers can take water and clean their dishes etc. This design is used at nearly all the campsites on this track...I like it because I can see it would work well. 

The small cleaning sink and water source at Aorere Shelter

All of the campsite shelters built to this pattern were constructed back in the 1980's and while they are well maintained they are starting to show their age. They are over 40 years old now and would see a power of use year after year...do they need to be replaced? 

Specifications:

Campsite shelter, 5 campsites, seating, watertank from roof, flush toilets

Perry Saddle Hut:

Perry Saddle Hut is where most people will spend the first night of their tramp on the Heaphy Track. It is at the end of the long six hour climb up from Brown Hut and it is a welcome sight as it rolls into view from near Lookout Point. The hut is located on the northern edge of Perry Saddle which links the Tasman coast with the downlands you cover on day three. 

Perry Saddle Hut (2012), Kahurangi NP

Several of the huts on this track were replaced over 2012-2014 as the previous buildings could not cope with the increasing number of people who are using the track. Perry Saddle along with James MacKay and Heaphy Hut are all built to the same basic template with three bunkrooms, a large central living space and attached toilet block. All three are excellent places to stay and typical of the newer DOC backcountry huts. 

Living space inside Perry Saddle Hut, Kahurangi NP

The bunkrooms at Perry Saddle are named and I stayed in Kaka Saddle which is a terrain feature in the nearby Gouland Range. The other two bunkrooms were Dragons Teeth and Mount Perry. None of the other huts had named bunkrooms...

Kaka Bunkroom at Perry Saddle Hut

The hut was about 2/3 full which was the norm for the days I was walking the track. Usually the huts are totally full at this time of year but a huge chunk of the population was locked down in Auckland which probably explains why the huts had empty bunks...

Specifications:

Great Walk Hut: 28 bunks, water from tanks, wood burner, flush toilets, picnic tables

Perry Saddle Campsite Shelter:

Each of the larger Heaphy Track huts has a co-located campsite with space for 5-10 tents and Perry Saddle is no exception. There is a separate campsite shelter as campers are not permitted to use the living space inside a Great Walk hut. Your average Great Walk hut has from 20-40 visitors each night and adding another 10-20 people would make for crowded conditions...

The campsite shelter at Perry Saddle is different from the other huts. It is a more basic structure with openings on two of the sides and it has heavy duty plastic curtains which can be rolled up to open or close the structure. I'm not sure if I like this design as much as the older shelters because those curtains will perish over time and it might be difficult to find replacements. 

Specifications:

Campsite shelter with 5 campsites, seating, watertank from roof, and flush toilets

 

Perry Saddle Hut to James MacKay Hut:

The second day of the track starts out in the forest near Perry Saddle but you will soon find yourself crossing the tussock covered downland of Gouland Downs and MacKay Downs. Some people will walk to James MacKay Hut in one day (24km's or 6-9 hours!!!) but you can also stop for the night at either Gouland Downs Hut or Saxon Hut along the way. 

Gouland Downs Hut:

Gouland Downs Hut is the oldest hut on the Heaphy Track and it has a lot of charm with its cosy rustic interior, open fireplace and ton of history. This was originally a deer cullers hut before the track was recut and it has been in continuous use since it was built in 1957. 

Gouland Downs Hut (1957), Kahurangi NP

The hut has been well maintained and it is just as comfortable as any other on the track...it would be worth staying a night if that fits into your plans just for the open fireplace. 

The interior of Gouland Downs Hut....

One of the main attractions with this hut is the chance to see Takahe in the wild. Gouland Downs is the place you are most likely to see Takahe as they were released close to the hut and several have stayed in the general vicinity. I talked to the people who stayed in Gouland Downs Hut the night before I arrived and they saw three Takahe at the same time the previous evening...

Specifications:

Great Walk Hut: 8 bunks, water from tanks, open fire, flush toilets, picnic tables

Saxon Hut:

I think Saxon Hut was my favorite on this track...it is smaller than the newer huts but it really reminds me of other serviced huts I have visited around the country. Saxon Hut is located on the edge of Gouland Downs and I think it is a better accommodation option than walking all the way from Perry Saddle to James MacKay Hut in one day. 

Saxon Hut (1984), Kahurangi NP

 The hut is mid sized and will easily hold 16 people though the night I stayed it was just myself and an English couple. It has sleeping platforms and a lay out which reminded me of huts on the St James Walkway, Arthurs Pass NP and in Nelson Lakes NP. I love this style of hut and will actively seek them out when I am planning my tramping trips... 

Saxon Hut is also a place that Takahe like to visit and I was so pleased to stay here as a Takahe spent most of the afternoon around the hut on the night I was there. It was quite tame and walked up to the three of us and browsed the grass around the hut clearing. 

A native Takahe chows down on the grass outside Saxon Hut

Surprisingly there is no campsite shelter at the Saxon Hut site even though there are five campsites located here. I suppose the hut gets so little use they just decided that people will be able to sit inside the hut to eat their meals. 

Specifications:

Great Walk Hut: 16 bunks, 5 campsites, water from tanks, wood burner, flush toilets, picnic tables

James MacKay Hut:

James MacKay Hut marks the dividing line between the sub alpine downland and the forest you will be passing through on your descent down to the Lewis River on the second to last day of your trip. It sits right on the edge of MacKay Downs and on a fine day the mouth of the Heaphy River is clearly visible in the distance.

James MacKay Hut (2012), Kahurangi NP

The hut had a nice feel to it and I thought it was my second best liked hut on this track. I think it helped that I arrived in a rain storm and within an hour I was dry and had a blazing fire going. It has a wonderful veranda around it and I could see sitting outside and reading over a sunny afternoon as it had the least number of sandflies of any of the huts on this track. 

Inside one of the bunkrooms at James MacKay Hut

The hut warden at James MacKay was a Kiwi women who has been working up here every summer for over a decade and she was awesome and totally typical of a West Coaster. 

Specifications:

Great Walk Hut: 28 bunks, water from tanks, wood burner, flush toilets, picnic tables

James MacKay Campsite Shelter:

James MacKay is the most exposed of the hut and campsite locations on the Heaphy Track so I was expecting a heavy duty campsite shelter and I was not mistaken. The new shelter here is a nearly enclosed structure with only a door sized gap on one wall open to the air.  It looks like one of those DOC relocatable staff quarters which has been repurposed. 

James MacKay Campsite Shelter (2020), Kahurangi NP

 The building looks to be insulated and it has a bench, sink and water taps inside with a couple of flushing toilets located not too far away. Again...it should really be enclosed so that you can use the facilities without being eaten alive by the bugs. 

Interior of the new campsite shelter at James MacKay Hut

The tent sites both here and at Saxon Hut were of the platform type...wooden platforms with tie down points attached to them. A free standing tent is the best option on this type of platform but any tent can be set up on them with a bit of thought. 

The platform tent sites at James MacKay Campsite

The trip from James MacKay Hut to Heaphy Hut will be on either day three or four of your trip depending on how many days you are walking the track over...

Specifications:

Campsite shelter with 5 campsites, seating, watertank from roof, and flush toilets

 Ministry of Works Hut:

Now...right from the start I am going to tell you to seriously think before undertaking the trip to the MOW Hut on MacKay Downs. This is a serious off track trip with significant consequences if you get lost enroute to the hut. It should only be attempted by people with excellent backcountry experience, navigation skills, good maps AND a GPS unit. 

DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS ROUTE unless you have these skills and equipment!!!

The Ministry of Works Hut is the most original SF70 six bunk hut left in New Zealand and is a Mecca level acquisition for serious hut baggers. There is no marked track and some serious bush bashing is required to access the hut. 

The Ministry of Works Hut in Kahurangi NP

The Ministry of Works Hut was built in the early 1970's when the then Ministry of Works were contemplating building a road from Collingwood to Karamea. They were serious about this project as government surveyors spent nearly two years plotting the route of the road before it was decided it would be too difficult and costly to build. 

Bush bashing from the Heaphy Track to the MOW Hut

The MOW Hut can be accessed from the Heaphy Track as a side trip or as part of the longer Heaphy River to Kahurangi Lighthouse Route. It would require an additional two days from the Heaphy Track as it is rough and rugged terrain. You need one day to get to the hut and another to get back to the Heaphy Track on top of walking the Heaphy Track itself. 

Typical terrain over MacKay Downs you will cross...

There are possible routes from James MacKay Hut, Horrible Creek and Blueshirt Creek and there are many discussions of these routes online. The most straightforward is up Blueshirt Creek but all of them cross a confusing mix of downs, thick bush, creek beds and swamp. Only 10-20 parties make it here each year which gives you an idea of the intensity of the route. 

You drop off this bridge near Blueshirt Creek...to get to MOW Hut

I am only including this here as an increasing number of people are attempting the route to the hut and it is something you can consider if your skills are up to the task. Be forewarned...it is tiger country!!!

Specifications:

Basic, 6 bunks, open fire, water from stream, no toilet

James Mackay Hut to Kohaihai:

From James MacKay Hut you are dropping down to the confluence of the Lewis and Heaphy River before spending two solid hours walking along the river and out to the coast. For me it was the longest day of the track at 21 km's and over 6 hours and even though it is mostly downhill you will still be tired when you get to Heaphy Hut. 

Lewis Shelter:

In 2020 DOC decided to remove the old Lewis Hut from its location at the confluence of the Lewis and Heaphy Rivers. This hut was similar to Saxon Hut and was a useful place to stay for those walking south to north along the track. 

The old Lewis Hut (1970's-2021)

The hut was removed as erosion had started to seriously threaten the hut site and it was decided that it should be replaced with a day shelter only. It was only completed in October of 2021 about a month before I started the track. 

Lewis Shelter (2021), Kahurangi NP

It is an excellent day shelter but I personally think it has a number of flaws. The most glaring is that it is open sided in possibly the most sandfly plagued spot outside of the Hollyford Valley. There were so many vicious sandflies here that it is basically unusable. I was covered in extra strength DEET and they were laughing at me as they chewed me to death.

Bastids!!!

Interior of the new Lewis Shelter on the Heaphy Track

There are seats inside the hut and an extensive bench so you could get the cooker out and heat water for soup, meals and hot drinks. There is also a very nice view from the veranda down to the Heaphy River Suspension Bridge and Lewis River. 

The other end of the interior space at the Lewis shelter...

There is a bench just outside the entrance to the shelter with two water taps and a couple of sinks. The water here is not filtered so you will need to boil, filter or treat it yourself as it comes from a nearby stream. 

The taps and sinks on the exterior of Lewis Shelter

If the shelter had doors I would be giving it five stars as it is a good design but just not for this track and this location. For example this shelter would be perfect up on the escarpment on the Paparoa Track. You would be better to stop in a heavily forested spot on the track to eat your lunch as you are less likely to be murdered by sandflies. 

View of the Lewis Shelter from the veranda...

Given the size of the new shelter, how much it probably cost, its location and the conditions you face on the Heaphy Track I really think they should have replaced the old Lewis Hut with a new hut. It could have been smaller...like one of those 10 person huts you see around the country. It would be useful for people travelling NOBO along the track to have somewhere to potentially stay before that massive climb up to the James MacKay Hut. 

It is just my personal opinion but I think this was a missed call...

Specifications:

Day shelter with seating, watertank from roof, and flush toilets

Heaphy Hut:

Heaphy Hut is either your first or last nights accommodation on the Heaphy Track and because it is used by people heading both ways it is slightly bigger at 32 bunks. It is in a absolutely premium spot and if this was any place but New Zealand there would be a multi million dollar house or lodge built here. 

Heaphy Hut (2014), Kahurangi NP

As I said earlier it is of the same basic design as Perry Saddle and James MacKay but it has four bunkrooms and not three. It has the largest living space of all the huts on this track and it is by far the largest overall when it comes to dimensions. This is the fourth hut constructed on this same spot so the original hut builders choose the right place to locate it. 

Interior of Heaphy Hut at the mouth of the Heaphy river

When you visit you absolutely must go down to the beach at the mouth of the Heaphy River. It is the most awesome spot around the hut and you can swim in the river, sunbathe, go fishing in the estuary (with a permit) and just enjoy the scenery. 

I spent nearly an hour at the beach myself as there is a lot to see and do. 

View up the Heaphy River Valley from the estuary

This family caught three big fish at the Heaphy River Estuary

BTW...there is cell cover from the beach if you get down close to the waterline...I checked MetService and talked to Karen down at Karamea for about 30 minutes without any problems. I also sent some photos to Facebook so you can send and receive from here. 

Specifications:

Great Walk Hut: 32 bunks, water from tanks, wood burner, flush toilets, picnic tables

Heaphy Campsite Shelter:

There is a campsite at Heaphy Beach and it has space for over 20 tents on a large and well groomed area of grass in front of the hut. The shelter is to the same design as the Aorere and Katipo Creek locations and has interior seating, toilets, tap water and sinks...

Heaphy Campsite Shelter (1980's), Kahurangi NP

Again with the open sided shelters....anywhere else this would be excellent but in the context of the sandfly infested West Coast it just doesn't work. Still...it is better than standing out in the cold and rain cooking your meals. 

Interior of the campsite shelter at the Heaphy River

If I was walking/riding the Heaphy Track and tenting I would be taking "no cook" foods as you can still eat but stay inside your tent away form the damn bugs. Sandwiches, salads, crackers and cold soak meals would be better than hot food...to limit your exposure.

Specifications:

Campsite shelter with 20 campsites, seating, fireplaces, watertank from roof, and flush toilets

Katipo Creek Shelter:

Katipo Creek Shelter is the last shelter on the actual track and services the small campsite located next to the Katipo Creek bridge. It is the half way point between Heaphy Hut and Kohaihai and it is the natural place to stop for a break as you make your way between them. 

Katipo Creek Shelter (1980's), Kahurangi NP

These structures are very basic but they offer a modicum of protection from the elements for those camping here or on their way to other places. You would really appreciate these shelters in a big rain storm...of that I can be sure. 

The interior of the Katipo Creek Shelter

Both times I have been here I spent less than five minutes which was just enough time for a drink, snack and to tie my bootlaces etc. I signed the intensions book in all of these shelters built to this design as they all have one to be filled out by the campsite residents. 

Specifications:

Campsite shelter with 5 campsites, seating, watertank from roof, and flush toilets

Kohaihai Shelter:

The end of the line for those walking the track from north to south and a good spot to wait for your transport once you walk off the track. The shelter is built to the same basic design as those at Aorere, Katipo Creek and the Heaphy River but this one is more elaboratively decorated. 

Kohaihai Day Shelter (1980's), Kahurangi NP

The shelter at Kohaihai is primarily for people waiting for a shuttle bus etc. but it would also be a great place to organise your gear before setting out along the track. You could go into the shelter when it is raining and sort out your pack without getting everything inside it wet. 

Kohaihai Shelter...typical DOC day shelter seen at many road-ends. 

The campsite at Kohaihai looks to be a ripper and it has a brand new ablution block with toilets, showers, tank water and some cooking benches. There is quite a lot to do in the local area and most people could easily spend two days here walking, visiting the beach and exploring the nearby river. 

Specifications:

Day shelter with seating, watertank from roof, and flush toilets. There is a campsite nearby with showers and a new ablution block. 

So there you go all the huts and shelters you are likely to encounter along the Heaphy Track. There are some real beauties on this track and DOC has provided a variety of huts and campsite shelters for you to stay at while you are walking or riding the track. 

Kahurangi NP: Heaphy Track, Day 4: James Mackay Hut to Heaphy Hut

The downhill run to Heaphy Hut...

On the fourth day of my trip I was walking down the track and out to the mouth of the Heaphy River on the West Coast. Heaphy Hut was 21 km's away and all but 6 kilometers was downhill from James MacKay Hut. This was the longest day of the tramp and it took me just over 6 hours to cover the distance. 

On the Heaphy Track between James MacKay Hut and Lewis Shelter

I spent an interesting afternoon exploring around Heaphy Hut and quite a bit of time down on the beach. I also had a look at the Heaphy Campsite but the numerous sandflies meant I spent most of my time indoors...

The mouth of the Heaphy River near the hut

This was one of the more interesting of the sections along the Heaphy Track as the terrain changes over the day and although it is a long way the track is fairly easy. 

Day 4: James Mackay Hut to Heaphy Hut, (6 hours, 21 kilometers)

I was the first person out of the hut that morning and set a cracking pace down the track towards Lewis Shelter which was my first destination for the day. It was wet and overcast and I had to wear my wet weather gear for most of the walk. I didn't see anyone until about a kilometer from Lewis Shelter when I meet some people climbing up to James MacKay Hut. 

Leaving James MacKay Hut on day four...

On the side track back down to the Heaphy Track

Once down on the main Heaphy Track it is downhill for the next four hours as you make your way down to Lewis Shelter at the confluence of the Heaphy and Lewis Rivers. I started off in light misty rain but had to stop down the track after ten minutes and put my jacket on as it had started to rain more heavily. 

The track heads downhill from here to Lewis Shelter about 15 km's away...

On the Heaphy Track enroute to Lewis Hut

It is easy travel on this section of the track but it is 21 kilometers to Heaphy Hut so even though it is mostly downhill it is still a long way...my legs were tired at the end of the day!!!

First of many side creeks between James MacKay and Lewis Shelter

I meandered along the track looking at the views of the surrounding mountains and bush along the track. At one point I spied a Robin in a tree and managed to capture some good video of the bird flitting through the forest. There was also a beautiful flowering Rata tree just off the track that the James MacKay hut warden had mentioned the previous evening. 

A Bush Wren I passed on the way to Lewis Shelter

Flowering Rata tree just off the Heaphy Track

To start with the track is open but it soon enters thicker forest and the tree species start to change from sub-alpine to Podocarp as you lose altitude. Gradually the trees get taller until they form a canopy over the track which was useful as it was protecting me from the increasing intensity of the rain falling.

To start the track was open...Heaphy Track

After about three km's it became Podocarp forest...Heaphy Track

There are a lot of Dracophyllum in this forest and there were several different varieties growing along the side of the track. They are a hansom looking tree with their Pineapple like top growth and long spindly trunks. 

Dracophyllum Tree just off the Heaphy Track...

The forest got a more dense and darker as I dropped down from the MacKay Downs.  At one point in a particularly dark section I walked around a corner and spooked a Kiwi that was walking down the track. This is the first time I have seen a Kiwi in the daylight on the mainland islands and it was exciting to see one in the wild....

I spooked a Kiwi in a dark section of forest...

Various people had written messages here...

An old NZFS sign marks on the side of the track

I had two liters or water with me when I left the hut that morning but there were a multitude of good side streams where you could resupply if your water was getting low. Some of the creeks and streams are bridged but others are not and there are a couple that could be a problem in heavy rain. 

Multiple creeks cross the Heaphy Track on day four

Pile of logs clogging a side stream...Heaphy Track

The track was a bit muddy after two days of rain...a pair of gaiters would have been useful on day three and four of this trip as both days I arrived at the hut with mud up to my knees. I had to stop about 2 hours into the day and put on my wet weather pants as it was teeming with rain. I had to keep them on until I reached Lewis Shelter as the forest up to that point alternates between thick cover and open sections. 

Some sections of the track were muddy...Heaphy Track

Most of the track is raised up from the surrounding forest...

One of the more open track sections...Heaphy Track

At one point you cross over a huge seam of coal that stretches across the track...it was easily 20 meters wide and was really obvious. You could actually smell the coal as it had a small stream running across parts of it and the water mist picked up the scent. I didn't capture a photo of it but I have managed to film it so have a look at the vlog post I have made on You Tube for this section of the Heaphy Track.

You cross over 20 bridges on the way to Heaphy Hut

Dracophyllum leaves across the Heaphy Track

I stopped for a break somewhere between Pt. 254 and Pt. 232 on my way down to the Lewis Shelter. There is a clear view down to the Heaphy River from here and if it is not cloudy you should be able to see the distant coast. It was warm and muggy in the forest so I took my jacket off to cool down a bit...

First view down to the Heaphy River from the Heaphy Track

My rest spot between James MacKay Hut and Lewis Shelter

After five minutes I gathered my gear and set off once again to the Lewis Shelter...I passed through a small grove of Rimu trees on the way. There are excellent views down to the Heaphy River along this section as well as a couple of places where the track has slipped away and is under repair. 

Grove of Rimu near Pt. 254 along the Heaphy Track

Clearer view of the distant Heaphy river

There were a couple of slips along this section....

I was making excellent progress and soon found myself at the marker post 1 kilometer from the Lewis Shelter. It was still lightly raining so I had my wet weather gear on but the track is an easy descent down to the shelter so I was not getting too hot...

Confluence of the Lewis and Heaphy Rivers

One last kilometer to the new Lewis Shelter, Heaphy Track

I saw a rare native Wort the hut warden at James MacKay had mentioned the previous night. They used to cut them back from along the track until she realised they were a rare species of plant. DOC are now allowing them to grow along the side of the track. They can grow to be nearly a meter tall although these were very small examples. 

Native Wort growing along the Heaphy Track

I soon found myself at the brand new Lewis Shelter and turned off the main track to go refill my water bottle and to have a bite to eat. The classic 1970's era Lewis Hut was removed in October 2021 and replaced with a new shelter. 

The old hut was near the confluence of the Lewis and Heaphy Rivers and was starting to get to close to the rivers edge due to erosion. It was a lovely hut...I visited it back in 1990 when I first walked the track as part of an Army tramping party. 

Turning off the Heaphy Track to Lewis shelter

Lewis Shelter (2021), Kahurangi NP

Detail of the brand new Lewis Shelter

It is a decent looking shelter but it has a number of problems with it already....it is open to the air and hence sandflies who are thick in these parts. You basically could not sit inside the shelter as they were eating me alive. It really needs to be enclosed or have doors with bug screens at the entrance. 

There is an excellent view of the Heaphy River swing bridge from the veranda so make sure you check it out. You can also see down to the confluence with the Lewis river.

View from the Lewis Shelter veranda

Apart from the sandflies it is well set up with plenty of seating both inside and outside of the shelter. It has flush toilets and filtered water from a stream feed watertank. The hut will be due a coat of paint once the Great Walk season is finished as that natural wood will quickly rot if it is not covered up...

Western side of the interior of Lewis Shelter

Eastern side of the interior of Lewis Shelter

Lewis Shelter has flush toilets and filtered water

I stayed less than five minutes and then continued on down the track to the Heaphy River swing-bridge. On the way you pass the old site of the Lewis Hut and you can see why it was removed as the river bank has eroded over 20 meters since I was last here. This is vivid proof that climate change is happening...all those big storms we keep having are quickening the pace of the erosion.

Site of the old Lewis Hut (1971-2021)

This is what the old Lewis Hut looked like....

Close to the old hut site is the Heaphy River Swingbridge which at 149 meters is now the longest single span swingbridge in New Zealand. The bridge has been upgraded from the 1990's and is now a wider structure with a wooden foot bridge suitable for MTB's....

The Heaphy Swingbridge is the longest in New Zealand

Heaphy River Swingbridge is 149 meters long....

View upstream from Heaphy River Swingbridge

View downstream from Heaphy River Swingbridge

Just over the bridge is an area of massive Northern Rata Trees which have been growing in this area for many centuries. They are an oddity as they do not normally grow in the South Island but they are probable a remnant of some ancient colony. 

They are huge...some of the bigger ones are over 15 meters around the trunk and 40-50 meters tall....they could be 800-1000 years old!!!

One of the massive Rata Trees near the Heaphy River

This Northern Rata is over 15 meters around the trunk...

Nikau Palms become more and more common as you approach the coast and as you get close to Heaphy Hut they are the dominant tree type. I always find it so odd that a Palm tree can grow down here in cold New Zealand...nature is a strange thing sometimes.

Nikau Palm alongside the Heaphy River

It is 8 kilometers or 2-3 hours walk from the Heaphy Swingbridge to the mouth of the Heaphy River. Most of the way it is flat with a couple of small ridges to climb over and it is flanked all the way with dense lowland Podocarp forest. There are a variety of species along the track including Matai, Rata, Kahikatea, Rimu and Totora. 

The last two hours are through lowland podocarp forest...

One of many small bridges along the Heaphy River

It was lightly raining as I walked to Heaphy Hut

It was raining the whole way along the Heaphy River but as you are in thick forest it doesn't mater that much. The canopy protects you from the worst of the rain and it was only the water dripping off the trees that meant I had to keep my jacket on all the way to Heaphy Hut. 

Climbing around a bluff on the Heaphy River

...and then over more flat ground....

The forest was almost tropical looking in places...

You cross a number of large and small creeks and rivers as you get closer to the coast but all of them are bridge so this is an all weather section of the track. In exceptionally heavy rain the Heaphy River will flood into the forest floor. Generally this will only happen in massive storms so most of the time you will have no problems...

Approaches to the Gunnar River Bridge, Heaphy Track

The valley upstream of the Gunnar River Bridge

Another massive Rata tree along the Heaphy Track

It is quick and easy travel across this part of the track but by this time you have already walked about 15 kilometers so you are starting to get a bit tired. Once you cross the Murry Creek bridge you are about 2 kilometers from the end of the track so the day is nearly over...

Palms, Cabbage Trees, Ferns and jungle vines.....Heaphy Track

Murray Creek Bridge is 2 kilometers from Heaphy Hut

Clearings along the Heaphy Track near Pt. 5

I really liked the beauty of this small side stream flowing next to the track...the stained water, sandy bed and thick bush make it seem almost tropical. It reminded me of the Abel Tasman Coast Track which is just north and east of here. 

A small side stream close to Pt. 170 on the Heaphy Track

Just past Murray Creek there are a series of high limestone bluffs right next to the track...this is old seabed that has been condensed and then thrust up by geologic action. The cliffs are 40-80 meters tall and care must be exercised near them as large chunks fall off them periodically. There are a couple of caves in the area including one with a resurgent stream coming out of it...the source must be on top of the bluffs.

Limestone bluffs near the Heaphy Hut site

...the bluffs were 40-80 meters high....

A stream resurgence near Heaphy Hut, Heaphy Track...

The James MacKay hut warden had told us to look out for a recently fallen chunk of rock at the bluffs and sure enough it was sitting right on the track. It was about as big as a fridge and was full of ancient shells, aquatic life and other fossils from when it was ocean floor many eons ago....

This chunk of limestone had fallen from the bluffs

The boulder was full of ancient shells and fossils...

The last kilometer of the track to Heaphy Hut is close to the Heaphy River so you can see the river flowing by and the birds that live here including the nesting Shags shown below...

A pair of Shags nesting above the Heaphy River

I came across my only live Giant Snail close to the marker showing one kilometer to Heaphy Hut. They used to be numerous along the track but they are in decline for a number of reasons. I picked it up with a big leaf and moved it off the track so it doesn't get squashed...

A giant snail close to the Heaphy Track....

Only one more kilometer to Heaphy Track...yaahhhh!!!

Upper estuary of the Heaphy River, Heaphy Track

There is a small sting in the day with a hill to climb right before you get to Pitt Creek and the hut. The track has to climb to avoid the river so there is no option but a hill climb BUT there are a lot of backcountry tracks that end in a hill. The original track builders went for the shortest line so they tended to avoid switchbacks or a route a trail over flat land if it meant more distance to cover....

There is one last hill to climb before Heaphy Hut

The mouth of the Heaphy River...and Heaphy Bluff

There is a new foot bridge over Pitt Creek just before you arrive at Heaphy Hut. It looks like it might have been swept away in a storm recently as all the trees on either side of the creek have been washed away. You can see the DOC hut wardens quarters from near the bridge so you are almost at the end of your walk for the day. 

Pit Creek Bridge...close to Heaphy Hut

Hut wardens quarters at the Heaphy Hut site

End of the walk for day four....Heaphy Hut clearing

I arrived at Heaphy Hut to see the DOC Warden at work washing the outside of the hut down with a high pressure waterblaster. I imagine this is a task you would need to undertake on a regular basis in this location as that sea salt laden air would quickly damage the buildings if left to accumulate. 

I arrive at the Heaphy Hut after six hours...

View of the Heaphy River mouth from the hut...

I was pleased to make it to the hut after walking for over 6 hours...most of the track might have been downhill but it doesn't really make a difference once you get over 20 km's or five hours in one day. You still get tired feet!!!

At Heaphy Hut:

The current Heaphy Hut is the fourth at this location so if we are going to be pedantic it is actually Heaphy Hut IV. This is the second time I have been here now as I visited back in 1990 on an Army exercise where we walked the Heaphy Track. 

Heaphy Hut (2014), Kahurangi NP

The hut location is primo...it has excellent views down to the estuary of the Heaphy River and a nice sandy beach to explore at the river mouth. There is a huge grassy area in front of the hut and part of this area is taken up with the DOC campsite located here. 

After a reviving brew and some late lunch I headed down to the beach to have a look around. 

Walking down to the Heaphy River mouth from the hut

There are great views back up the valley of the Heaphy River...but take care climbing over the piles of drift wood that line the edge of the beach though. It was clear but it was looking dark and threatening further inland as the weather was rolling in from the north east over the distant mountains. 

View back up the Heaphy River Valley

Heaphy Hut from the beach at the river mouth

Massive piles of drift wood down at the Heaphy Estuary

Heaphy Hut is a 32 bunker..it gets traffic from the Heaphy Track but a lot of people also walk into the hut from Kohaihai as an overnight trip. It is also a popular MTB ride from the road end...people will ride in for the day and then head back out to Kohaihai. 

Heaphy Hut: information panel outside the hut

Mud room at the Heaphy Hut

Heaphy Hut: mural on the wall inside the hut

The hut was about 3/4 full on the night I stayed...we had people walking both ways on the Track and a big group of younger folk who came in for an overnight visit. There is plenty of space inside the hut and it is set up much like Perry Saddle and James MacKay with a large central living area and three bunkrooms. The toilets and woodshed are located out the back of the hut. 

The view from inside Heaphy Hut is picturesque...

Heaphy Hut: the kitchen area in the hut

The area around Heaphy Hut is sandfly heaven and they were there in serried regiments so make sure you have some bug spray with you because you are going to need it. You can go and sit outside and explore the area but be prepared to get bitten a few times. 

Just letting you know the score folks...

Panoramic view of inside the Heaphy Hut

My water bottle, cup, spoon and bowl in Heaphy Hut

Later in the afternoon I went for a walk around the hut clearing and had an explore of the campsite located close to the hut. There is plenty of space here for tents...I think the actual number of tent sites is around a dozen. There are separate toilets and a nice campsite shelter located at the campsite with water taps, sinks and a bench off to the side. 

Heaphy Campsite Shelter, Kahurangi NP

The shelter would be a god send in rain which is not uncommon here on the West Coast but as it is three sided you will need to stay covered up or you will get eaten alive by the sandflies. This is the place you need that bug net most of us are carrying but never actually use...

Interior of the Heaphy Campsite Shelter...Heaphy Hut

There are water taps and a bench at the Heaphy Campsite Shelter

There are fireplaces located at the campsite so you can have a fire if you want to...there is a ton of good wood available down at the beach so you could have a huge fire and never run out of fuel. You will also find a couple of picnic tables located here to eat your meal out so I would rate it as an above average campsite.

View from inside the Heaphy Campsite Shelter

View from the track over the Heaphy Campsite

I headed back down to the beach and sat on a log watching the waves roll in for over 30 minutes. I talked to Karen on the phone as there is cell cover if you go right down to the edge of the surf line and face south down the coast. She was already at Karamea waiting for me as she had come over to the Coast to collect me from Kohaihai the next day. 

Isn't she lovely....not everyone would do that as I well know!!!

Heaphy Bluff and the mouth of the Heaphy River

Captain Cook stopped at the mouth of the Heaphy River on two of his voyages to New Zealand to take on fresh water so many of the local features have names of his patrons, senior crew members or important figures in England at that time.

Looking back up the valley we walked down that day...

Waves roll over the sandbar at the mouth of the Heaphy River

One of the family groups walking the track with me were fishing in the estuary of the Heaphy River and they caught a couple of decent fish...a pair of Snapper and a huge Kingfish. They filleted them and had them for dinner that night. 

You cannot fish off the beach as it is a marine reserve but you are allowed to fish the estuary with a permit. It might be worth taking a fishing line with you if you are walking in for a daytrip or over night visit. There are also Mussels, Paua and Scallops here if that floats your boat. Fresh kai moana for dinner sounds good...

The family fishing in the estuary of the Heaphy River

Stay away from the river mouth...there are strong currents!!!

I really enjoyed this days trek...the track was easy although long and the terrain is changeable and beautiful. My highlights of day four would be seeing the Kiwi on the track, the huge Rata trees and sitting on the beach at the end of the day. I said to Karen we should visit the hut off season as a overnight trip from Kohaihai as I think that would be cool. I would probably stay for the maximum two days to make all that walking worth while. 

Access: Getting to the track ends at either Brown River or Kohaihai is extremely difficult at this time. Covid has meant that many services are not available. See my post from earlier this year about planning a trip on the Heaphy Track for more detail....

Track Times: James MacKay to Heaphy Hut is 21 km's or 6 hours

Hut Details: James MacKay Hut: Great Walk, 28 bunks, gas cookers, wood burner, woodshed (coal supplied), toilet, water from tank, Lewis Shelter: Shelter, water from tap, benches, sink, picnic table, flush toilet, Heaphy Hut: Great Walk, 32 bunks, gas cookers, wood burner, woodshed (wood supplied), toilet, water from tank

Miscellaneous: All huts and campsites MUST be booked before starting the track. MTB riders are on the track from April to October. There are several rivers and creeks to cross enroute and some may be difficult or impossible in very heavy rain. 

You Tube link: James MacKay to Heaphy Hut