Camping at Kerr Bay, Lake Rotoiti

 A winter visit to Kerr Bay campsite...

I recently spent a couple of days up in Nelson Lakes National Park day walking some of the shorter tracks there. I booked one night in a local motel but I also spent one night camping. I stayed a night at the Kerr Bay Campground between St Arnaud township and Lake Rotoiti. Kerr Bay Campground is a DOC facility with powered and unpowered sites for caravans, camper vans and tents. 

Kerr Bay Campground, St Arnaud

To access from SH63 turn off onto Kerr Bay Road and follow down to the campground near the main boat ramp. Bookings are required from December through to the end of April, over Easter and any week there are speed boat races on Lake Rotoiti. 

Map: St Arnaud and start of Nelson Lakes NP

The rest of the time you have to go to the St Arnaud DOC office on View Road off SH 63 to book a site and pay your camp fees.

Map: set up of Kerr Bay Campground, St Arnaud

The Kaka Zone at Kerr Bay Campground...tent specific

There are both grass and hard surface pads available and the whole campground had a major overhaul last year while the country was mostly empty of tourists. There has been a lot of work done on the camping sites and both the amenity block and the camp cook shelter have been repainted and renovated. 

The Silver Surfer parked up at my site at Kerr Bay

I was using one of my Coleman tents on this trip...a smaller two person tent that I use for base camp trips such as this one. At 2.2 kg it is light for a camping tent but too heavy for tramping purposes (we have a lighter Macpac tent for that role). It performed well on this trip but it was really too cold for camping...I should just have stayed in the motel for both nights I was scheduled to be in the area.

The Coleman Camper 2 is set up behind the car

Nice protected site for the tent at Kerr Bay Campground

Plenty of free space in the mostly empty Kerr Bay Campground

I was in the Kiwi Zone which is a mixed camping/caravan area so there was a hard pad to park the car on and plenty of grass areas around it for the tent. Each of the sites have their own picnic table and each site is sheltered by a couple of trees. It is a nice set up and one I shall be taking advantage of going forward. 

Looking down to the Lake and Mt Robert from Kerr Bay Campground

It was a quiet night at the campground as there were only about 6-7 camper vans and myself in the campground. It was a little cold...I had my Marmot -10 degree bag so I was warm enough in my pit but my face got cold as it dropped down to -2 degrees overnight. 

I had a closed cell foam mat under my airbed to insulate from the ground but I probably need a down filled air bed for these winter camps. I don't know that anyone makes a camping air bed with down inside but it is something I shall be investigating. 

My camping air bed in the tent, Kerr Bay Campground

I was reading Karen's Willard Price books on this trip...

I actually had a Kiwi walk right past my tent at around 8 pm just as it got dark...it was literally a couple of meters away and while I could make out its shape I couldn't really see any detail in the dark. Still amazing as it is a busy area right on the edge of the National Park and not a place you would expect to see our rare national bird.

Campsite facilities at Kerr Bay:

Kerr Bay Campground is well set up with all the facilities you might need when staying overnight at this locale. There is a very nice camp cook shelter and a set of toilets/showers/laundry attached to the camp to make your stay more comfortable. 

The cook shelter at the Kerr Bay Campground, St Arnaud

...it is called Blechynden Shelter...

The cooking shelter is a three sided building with three large tables, bench's and a seat right around the walls of the building. It has a stainless steel bench with two sinks with both hot and cold water. There is a Zip on the wall for boiling water and a four burner gas hob for use by those people staying in the campground.

Kerr Bay Shelter: the hob and one of the dining tables (2018)...

 Filtered water is available inside the shelter and there is a filtered water tap outside for refilling those camper van water tanks before you leave. 

The newly painted interior of Blechynden Shelter at Kerr Bay

The filtered water tap outside Blechynden Shelter

There are some awesome views of Lake Rotoiti and Mt Robert from inside the cooking shelter which makes for fine dining with a view. They have also put some Clearlite panels in the roof so it is much lighter inside than it used to be. You will find recycling bins and rubbish bins at the cooking shelter and others scattered around the campground. 

View of Lake Rotoiti from inside the shelter at Kerr Bay Campground

There is a combined shower/laundry block at Kerr Bay Campground with token operated hot water showers and coin operated washing machines/dryers. You get the tokens for the facilities from the St Arnaud DOC office on View Road. One token is good for six minutes of hot water or 30 minutes of cloths drying. 

Information about the Kerr Bay Campground showers

Kerr Bay Campground toilet block...

There are three warm showers at Kerr Bay Campground

Laundry facilities at Kerr Bay Campground

There is a new set of toilets located right next to and opposite the shower block. Both the toilet block and the shower block were totally renovated in December of 2020 so they are now very flash. All these facilities are located opposite the cooking shelter at the Lake Rotoiti end of the campground.

Nice facilities at the Kerr Bay Campground

DOC sign at the entrance to Kerr Bay Campground, St Arnaud

The Lake Rotoiti boat ramp and dock are located right outside the entrance to the Kerr Bay Campground. There is a carpark here where several of the tracks start that go along this side of Lake Rotoiti including the Lakehead Track to Lakehead Hut and the Travers Valley, St Arnaud Range Track, Loop Walk and Honeydew Track.

Start of the Lake Rotoiti track network at the Kerr Bay carpark

One of the tracks I walked was the Mt Robert Circuit which loops around the northern side of the mountain with a start and finish at the Mt Robert carpark. You have an excellent view of Mt Robert from the campground at Kerr Bay and in fact you can see Paddy's Track from the wharf. 

Mt Robert is visible across Lake Rotoiti, Nelson Lakes NP

The sun setting on the St Arnaud Range, Nelson Lakes NP

Kerr Bay Campground is a well appointed and well located place for you to use as a base camp while exploring the nearby Nelson Lakes National Park. It is definitely worth considering as an accommodation option if you are ever visiting the area. Better in Summer than Winter unless you have a caravan or camper van...

To Speargrass Hut: 3rd December 2016

A day trip to Speargrass Hut, Nelson Lakes NP

 This was the second of the two day tramps I did over the weekend and it was simply a hut bagging exercise. I have been down the Sabine Valley before but never walked the whole Travers-Sabine Circuit (...but I will be in April if the augurs work for me...) so I have not visited Speargrass Hut before.

Mt Robert track network map

 The Kerr Bay DOC campsite:

As I mentioned in the last post I stayed overnight at the Kerr Bay camp ground near Lake Rotoiti. This is a very nice DOC camp ground. It has a well appointed cooking shelter with free cooking facilities (lights, potable water, gas hob, hot water heater) plenty of table space and bins for your rubbish. There are about 40 odd tent and caravan sites and all the amenities you would expect. 

It also has token operated hot showers which is a real bonus...get the tokens at the St Arnaud DOC office.

DOC cooking shelter, Kerr Bay camp ground, St Arnaud

Interior, Trampers cooking shelter, Kerr Bay camp ground, St Arnaud

Dining tables, Trampers cooking shelter, Kerr Bay camp ground

 I had a nice flat spot for my tent on the nights I stayed, but it absolutely hosed with rain on the Friday night. I stayed dry in my Coleman tent but it was a "near run thing' as the Duke of Wellington remarked. Everyone was a bit wet and bedraggled looking the next morning at breakfast...

The camp ground was full, mostly tourists but there were a few kiwis as well, there are also two slightly more "rugged" camp-sites at West Bay if Kerr Bay is full.

View up to tent/caravan sites,  Kerr Bay camp ground, Nelson Lakes NP

You can book a site on-line from December through Easter, the rest of the time it is first come first served.

Speargrass Track to Speargrass Hut

When I was in the Army we walked over Waiau Pass and down the Sabine Valley to the old track around Lake Rotoroa. The track around Lake Rotoroa is gone now, wiped out by a big storm about 3-4 years ago. 

As it is only 2.5 hours from a car park I thought it a good candidate for a "baggin's"

Lake Rotoiti from the Mt Robert car park, Nelson Lakes NP

The track is generally flat with a slight rise at both ends and takes approximately 2.5 hours each way, 5-6 hours return.They are relatively easy hours as well.

Track to Speargrass Hut, Nelson Lakes NP

The start point for the Speargrass Hut Track is the Mt Robert car park. This is also the start point for the trip to Angelus Hut and the Mt Robert Circuit. The views are nice as it sits just below the 900 meter line. 

The car park was already half full when I arrived at 08.30 I would imagine most were either overnighting at Angelus or Bushline Hut or walking the Mt Robert Circuit.

A full Mt Robert car park, Nelson Lakes NP

Note: Don't leave your car here over night! This is the site of more car break-ins than any other area of New Zealand bar South Auckland. I'm exaggerating a bit but not by much. This car park is specifically excluded on some insurance policies used by the car rental companies.

Basically, you need to park in St Arnaud, the best spot is outside the DOC Maintenance HQ near the visitors centre.

Day shelter and toilets at the Mt Robert car park, Nelson Lakes NP

There is a shuttle service during the summer to the car park, I think prices are around $20 per person.

 

DOC track sign at the Mt Robert car park

Closer view of the DOC track sign at the Mt Robert car park

Map of the local track network around Mt Robert and the Travers-Sabine Circuit

As I said, this is the starting point for both the Mt Robert Circuit and Speargrass Tracks. My track headed off to the right around the flank of Mt Robert ridge. The track sign doesn't specifically say 'this way to Speargrass" but that is the way to go. It is a very nice beech forest track, initially dropping down to Speargrass Stream and then gradually climbing to the tussock flat the hut sits on.

Start of the Speargrass Track at Mt Robert car park

At the start of the Speargrass track

This track is all about root ladders and side streams; there are a lot of both to walk over. All of the side-stream have small foot bridges the exception being the river crossing near Speargrass Slip (more about that later). The track is a bit up and down but easy to follow.

One of the many sidestreams you cross on the Speargrass Track

After an hour or so you descend right down to the bank of Speargrass Stream, the track follows the river for a good kilometre with a river crossing or flood track diversion near the infamous Speargrass Slip.

First view of Speargrass Stream from the Speargrass Hut track

The river doesn't look too bad in this photo but brother was it deep and swift, I took a good hard look and thought "NO, bugger that for a laugh"! The pools in the river would be 4 feet deep and the water was whipping along and then under a series of nasty looking snags just hungering to drown somebody. 

It is especially deep on the far side of the stream as it under cuts the river bank and has scoured out a deep channel. I used the flood track across the top of the slip instead, longer but much safer. 

As always follow the golden rule of river crossings: if in doubt, don't cross...especially when there is a perfectly safe alternative.

Speargrass Slip and raised level of Speargrass Stream

Speargrass slip...the flood track skirts the  top of the slip!

Here is a view of the river from the top of the Speargrass Slip flood track, you go quite a way up the slope to get around it.

Speargrass Stream from the flood track above Speargrass Slip

After crossing the slip it was a series of gentle up and down sections all the way to the footbridge near Speargrass Hut. Your classic bog standard beech forest track....

Speargrass Hut Track: climbing out from Speargrass Stream to the hut

Speargrass Hut Track, typical standard of track

Speargrass Creek from the bridge near the hut, Nelson Lakes National Park

Speargrass Track: the footbridge just before Speargrass Hut

After 2.5 hours I arrived at Speargrass Hut which is one of the huts on the classic Travers - Sabine Circuit. The first question that popped into my mind was "Where is the speargrass....?" There wasn't any in the tussock clearing that I could see.

Speargrass Hut as seen from Speargrass Track...note the board walk!

Speargrass Hut is very nice, it is a serviced 12 bunker and is relatively new having been built in 2006. The hut is always full as it is a crossing point on routes to Angelus Hut, the Sabine Valley, Lake Rotoroa, the D'Urville Valley, Blue Lake, Waiau Pass and other points to east and west.

 It gets a lot of use, so it should probably be a 20 or 24 bunk hut.

Speargrass Hut (2006)

I had a chat with the American guy who was in the hut, he was heading up to Angelus Hut using the Speargrass Stream route. Reading the hut book the majority of visits were from people on the Travers-Sabine Circuit and TA hikers who couldn't get over Waiau Pass and had to turn back. 

DOC sign on the outside of Speargrass Hut, Nelson Lakes NP

I would imagine they get a bit of snow around the hut in winter as it is sitting at over 1100 meters.

Speargrass Hut: the sleeping platforms

I spent about 30 minutes at the hut eating my lunch and having a look around and then set off back to the Mt Robert car park. 

Speargrass Hut: the dining area...nice view out the window by the way!

I was kind of dreading the final climb from Speargrass Stream to Mt Robert car park. It was the last 30 minutes of a 6 hour tramp and it seemed like a long descent on the way in. Actually it was remarkably painless, in fact as I crested the last rise and saw the car park I thought "Unhhhh...is that it...?"

Speargrass Track: A footbridge over one of the un-named side streams

On the last uphill section of Speargrass Track

There are a few short sections of board walk on the Speargrass Track, there to protect areas of delicate alpine plants. I understand that there are extensive sections on the other side of Speargrass Hut as it descends Howard Ridge to Lake Rotoroa.

Boardwalk along the course of Speargrass Hut Track

Another section of boardwalk on Speargrass Track, Nelson Lakes NP

The track climbing to the car park is a 'root ladder', a type of track that is very common in Nelson Lakes NP.  they are slippery but ok to walk on if you take your time. 

Root ladder for a track, Speargrass Track

At the end of the Speargrass Track, Mt Robert end

If you are ever in St Arnaud you must drive up to the Mt Robert car park. It is well worth the effort as it sits at 900 meters and has awesome views down onto Lake Rotoiti, St Arnaud and the surrounding area.

Lake Rotoiti and St Arnaud from Mt Robert car park

Jon at the Mt Robert car park

I stopped at West Bay on the way back to St Arnaud, you drive past it on the Mt Robert road. I used the lake to wash most of the mud and grime off my boots and gaiters and took some photos of the lake from near the dock.

Mt Robert Ridge from West Bay

Lake Rotoiti Peninsula from West Bay

Jon near the dock at West Bay, Nelson Lakes NP

Another great tramp on a nice bush track, and lunch at a awesome DOC Hut, really what else could you ask for! Speargrass Hut is the 89th DOC hut I have visited....I'm closing in on that hundy fast!!!

Access: Speargrass Valley Track can be accessed from the Mt Robert carpark, Lake Rotoiti.The obscure track heads off to the right from near the DOC track signs.

Track Times: It is approximately 10 km's to Speargrass Hut, or 3-3.5 hours.  Total tramping time is 6-7 hours return.

Hut details: Speargrass Hut (Serviced, 12 bunks, watertank)

Miscellaneous: Need to negotiate the Speargrass Slip (flood track available).