Havelock as a Te Araroa Trail resupply point...
I recently passed through Havelock near Pelorous Sound on my way to a tramping trip in Kahurangi National Park. I stopped and took some photos of the town and its supermarket as I thought it might be useful to investigate the town as a potential resupply point.
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The main street of Havelock in Marlborough Province...
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Havelock is half way between Anakiwa at the end of the Queen Charlotte Track and Pelorous Bridge the entrance to the Richmond Ranges. You would be arriving here on day 6-8 of a SOBO trek or day 8-10 of a NOBO trip from St Arnaud so you will be needing an urgent resupply.
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Map: Havelock is half way between Anakiwa and Pelorous Bridge
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Havelock is the only place close to the trail you can resupply before starting the next two sections of the trail as both Anakiwa and Pelorous Bridge are small settlements. You used to be able to send drop boxes to Pelorous Bridge campground but this service is no longer available. Your only other option is to hitch to Blenheim about 40 odd kilometres away.
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Pelorous Sound from the northern outskirts of Havelock
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Havelock is small...less than 300 permanent residents as it is simply a service center for the forestry, farming, factory fishing and holiday industries which exist nearby. There is one petrol station, a medium sized supermarket, some restaurants/cafes, retail shops and other infrastructure to support the local community.
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Map: Street map of Havelock, Pelorous Sound
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One thing Havelock is famous for are the extensive mussel and salmon farms in nearby Pelorous and Kenepuru Sounds. If you are visiting or staying in Havelock make sure you have some mussels..there are several places selling them and they are really good.
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A visit to the Mussel Pot Cafe is a Te Araroa institution...
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There is enough in Havelock for a reasonable rest/lay day but if you needed more than basic food resupply, accommodation or meals you need to hitch to Blenheim. Anyway...lets have a look at what Havelock has to offer the TA trekker...
Four Square Havelock:
Havelock has only the one food store and that is the Four Square supermarket on the corner of SH6 and Neil Street. Four Square supermarkets are very common in smaller towns such as this...they are independently owned but buy goods as a co-operative so they are able to charge similar prices to the big chains.
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The Four Square supermarket in Havelock, Marlborough
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The Havelock Four Square supermarket is well stocked and it has almost every item you will need to do a full resupply before you continue your journey. Taking a look at a selection of items the prices are almost the same as in any larger supermarket in a big town or city.
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Havelock Four Square:Chilled food section, fruit and vegetables
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Havelock Four Square:a full spread of cured meats...
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There are a couple of taverns in Havelock but no liquor outlets so the closest thing you have is the alcohol selection at the supermarket. They have a good range of beer, wine and cider for sale but as with all supermarkets in New Zealand no spirits. There is an off licence at the Havelock Hotel if spirits are your thing.....they have limited hours so check to see when they are open.
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Havelock Four Square:beer, sparkling wine and cider...
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Havelock Four Square:various wines, snack nuts and potato chips...
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Probably the best way to describe to you what they have in stock is simply to show you. Here are a series of photos of all of the shelves in the Havelock Four Square so you can see for yourself...
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Havelock Four Square:crackers, biscuits,cereal...
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Havelock Four Square:they have a comprehensive Muesli bar selection...
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Havelock Four Square:juice, powdered drinks, soda, iced tea...
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Havelock Four Square: a good spread of fish in packets and cans, soup, beans etc.
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They had a good selection of bread, wraps, tortillas, pastries etc. so plenty of scope for lunches and no cook dinner meals....
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Havelock Four Square:they had bread, wraps, croissant and pastries
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Havelock Four Square:teas, coffee, cocoa etc.
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Havelock Four Square:dried fruit, nuts and eggs...
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They had a selection of the most popular Backcountry freeze dried meals including the fancy muesli and porridge meals. There was also a comprehensive selection of those Continental, Maggi and San Remo pasta side dishes. Plenty of noodles, rice, pasta, instant mash and Mexican meal items....
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Havelock Four Square:pasta, rice, sidemeals, noodles and Backcountry meals
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Lots of chocolate including some of the fancy brands for those of you who carry when out on trail.....not me. I only very occasionally carry chocolate and if I am it will be Whittakers sante bars, Snickers or peanut M & M's.
I am more of a savoury guy...chips, olives, cheese, salted nuts, jerky are more my style.
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Havelock Four Square:lots of chocolate...
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Havelock Four Square: chocolate, sweets, powdered milk etc.
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The Four Square had a fairly comprehensive selection of hardware including Meths (for Trangia type cookers), candles, matches and storage bags. What they did not have were any gas canisters..I specifically looked for them but there were none in the store.
This is problematic as there is no source of them before you enter the Richmond Ranges so you either need to carry them with you from Picton or go 'no cook' on this section of the trail. They may sell them at the service station in Havelock...I will have a look the next time I am passing through.
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Havelock Four Square:hardware, cleaners, meths etc.
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Havelock Four Square:storage bags/containers, stationary, tape....
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The town may be small but the Four Square in Havelock would be more than capable of resupplying you for your next sections of the trail. They have enough variety to cater for a range of tastes and I am sure you will be able to find something in store to see you through to your next resupply point.
Bars & eateries in Havelock:
Havelock is on SH6 the main road between Blenheim and Nelson so it has a number of cafes, restaurants and bars to cater to the people passing through. Most of these are clustered around the main road but there are a couple of eateries down by the Marina as well.
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The Havelock Marina, Marlborough Sounds
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One of the things you should try if you are in Havelock are some green lipped Mussels...they are farmed in the local areas and are damn delicious. Probably the best place for these is the Mussel Pot a well known TA tradition. They do a variety of lunch and dinner meals with an emphasis on seafood...go for the steamed mussels in white wine with crusty bread...yum!!!
They also do non-seafood meals so check out their online menu...
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The Mussel Pot steamed mussels.....marvelous!!!
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Another place I have eaten lunch is the Captains Daughter a brasserie style cafe, restaurant and bar close to the supermarket. The meal I had was very nice and the cafe has a nice ambiance to it...it was busy as it is the most obvious eatery in the town so you should probably book in for dinner. Prices were moderate and well within a modest budget.
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The Captains Daughter is a cafe/bar in Havelock...
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I have also heard good things about the Mills Bay Mussel Tasting Company they are a Mussel factory farming business but have a retail store and cafe located near the Marina. Dine in or take away options are available. I am going to visit the next time I am heading through Havelock.
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Mills Bay Mussels Tasting Room and Eatery
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There are a couple of other cafes and restaurants in the town but as I have not sampled their wares I cannot comment on the quality.
If you are looking to wet your whistle there are three bars in Havelock...the first is the Captains Daughter, there is also the Havelock Hotel and the Slip Inn Brasserie and Bar. All three have websites so have a look to see when they are open.
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The Slip Inn Brasserie and Bar at the Havelock Marina
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Apart from the places I have mentioned it is Muggins choice...go have a look at the menus at different places and choose one that suits your taste and budget.
Accommodation in Havelock
Havelock is a days walk from both Anakiwa and the start of the Richmond Range at Pelorous Bridge so it is a good spot for a rest/lay day.
You are going to need somewhere to stay. There are a range of accommodation options in the town ranging from campgrounds right up to top of the line lodges, hotels and holiday homes. The cheapest is the Havelock Holiday Park with tent sites, cabins and dorm style rooms. They have a dining/cooking hall and facilities like showers and laundry services.
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Havelock Holiday Park has tent sites and camp facilities...
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Moving up the price range there are a couple of Bed and Breakfast places in Havelock which provide accommodation and a morning meal. There are also several motels scattered at various places in the town and if you are a squillionaire there are a couple of high end Lodges.
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The Havelock Garden Motel is right in the center of town...
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My best advice would be to look at the TA Trail notes for this section and check out the blogs of TA alumni to get their recommendations for good places to stay.
Miscellaneous information about Havelock and Marlborough:
The closest city with a full range of retail, accommodation and administrative services is Blenheim approximately 40 odd kilometers south along SH 6. Blenheim has around 30 000 residents so it has everything you might need including several big supermarkets, outdoor retail outlets, a hospital, an airport, fast food outlets (KFC/Subway/MacDonalds) and an area DOC office.
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Blenheim is the closest city to Havelock...
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You can hitch or take public transport (shuttles) to Blenheim or Nelson and some of them will drop you at the Pelorous Bridge camp ground if needed. This would save you one day of mostly road walking on a narrow and very busy highway.
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The campground and camp shelter at Pelorous Bridge Reserve
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There is a pharmacy in Havelock which may be able to help you with basic medical requirements such as tape, bandages and over the counter medication. There is also a small museum and the area around the marina is worth visiting to see the various yachts and motor vessels tied up there.
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There is a small museum in Havelock...
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Heading SOBO you will head to Canvastown before joining Daltons Road all the way to the camp ground at Pelorous Bridge on the edge of the Richmond Ranges. NOBO you have a mix of track and road walking to Anakiwa at the southern end of the Queen Charlotte Track. Both are one days walk or around 20 kilometres away.
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Anakiwa...the southern terminus of the Queen Charlotte Track
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So...hopefully some of that information will be useful to you as you do your planning for your trek of the Te Araroa Trail.
