Showing posts with label New Zealand Backcountry Huts. Show all posts
Showing posts with label New Zealand Backcountry Huts. Show all posts

Thursday 29 September 2022

Our Iconic Huts: Styles and types of DOC huts

...huts for all seasons...

 There are over 900 public huts in New Zealand scattered from the top of the North Island right down to the Antipodes. The history and origins of these huts are many...some were working huts, some private accommodation, there are historic huts and those built for tourism.

Boyle Flat Hut, an old Walkways Commission Hut on the St James Walkway

I thought I would have a look at the the different types of huts, their origins and how they came to be available for public use...

Working Huts: Musterers huts, water races, rabbit control buildings and farm buildings

Many ex working buildings have been converted into DOC huts over the years. These can range forom farm buildings to water race cottages and include some iconic examples around the country. Many of these buildings came into the conservation estate with the formation of national Parks and the set up of the forest park system. Others were acquired as part of land tenure review.

Top or Bealey Spur Hut, Arthur's Pass NP.
An older example of a musterers hut is Bealey Spur or Top Hut in the Craigieburn Range, an out building that belonged to a long defunct high country station. This hut accommodated shepherds when the local area was used for grazing sheep.


The interior of Bealey Spur Hut

Another type of building that has been converted into a DOC hut are old farm houses. The newest example of this is the old farm cottage on Quail Island, Lyttleton Harbour which is being converted into a 10 person hut.

Otamatua or Quail Island Hut, January 2018

There are also numerous huts on land which has undergone tenure review, where station huts have now come under the aegis of DOC. A good example is Comyn's Hut near Hakatere in the Central South Island. 

Comyns Hut Hakatere Conservation Park, Central South Island

 This is now a 6 bunk hut well utilised by people walking the Te Araroa Trail.


New Zealand Forestry Service (NZFS) huts:

There are a multitude of NZFS huts scattered around the contry. The NZFS was the New Zealand Forestry Service which built the same standardised 2, 4 and 6 bunks huts for deer culling. 

Mid Robinson Hut: a classic largely un-touched SF70 hut

They were scattered along tracks often 3 -4 hours apart to facilitate teams of men who spent much of the 1950's-1970's based at the huts and scouring the surrounding area for the deer that were in numbers and were eating the forest cover. 

Standard set-up inside a SF70 hut: Bunks, zinc bench, louvred windows

...lockable storage cupboard, and veranda/wood storage area...Anti Crow Hut

These huts have a number of the same features namely they had cupboard space for storing food, a fire and tend to be located near a stream. Once deer cullers were found to be ineffective they were removed and replaced by men in helicopters. 

Huts built for scientific study

There are a number of huts around the country that were originally built for scientific purposes. Mostly these were owned by Universities or Technical Colleges but government departments also had huts built for long term studies taking place in remote regions. The scientists needed a place to stay while undertaking their studies with the most basic of amenities.

John Haywood Hut...built to study erosion in the Canterbury foothills


The purposes varied but huts were built to study forestry, erosion, glaciation, endangered species recovery, pest control, river hydraulics and oceanography. Many of these huts were built with features that assisted with their purpose, for example Cupola Hut in Nelson Lakes has a long observation window on one side of the hut. It faces an open high alpine pasture much favored by local Thar. 


Cupola Hut, Nelson Lakes NP....built to study Red Deer and Thar herds

Once the need for the accommodation subsided these huts usually became available for general public use. 

Huts for tourists: Private/THC/Internal Affairs/Walking Commission

Tourism was an early reason for accommodation in the back-country, New Zealand has always had a reputation as a tourism mecca even back in the 19th Century. Tourism has been variously controlled first by individuals, and then successive government departments tasked with getting tourist into the country. 

The Hermitage in Mt Cook National Park

For much of the 20th century tourism was the preserve of the Department of Internal Affairs, they had their own tourism arm called the Tourism Hotel Corporation. For the most part they controlled hotels in the great tourism spots: Lake Rotorua, Mt Tongariro NP and Mt Cook NP to name three. They also controlled many huts & lodges in scenic spots such as on the Milford Track, Milford Sound and Mt Taranaki. Most of the lodges and hotels were sold to private groups in the late 1980's but many of the huts were passed onto DOC when it was formed in 1987. 
  
The chateau in Tongariro was open till this year

The Walking Commission was another government incentive to increase tourism, they advocated for and built huts aimed at getting more New Zealanders into the outdoors. The St James Walkway and the huts along its length are an example of their handiwork. Again they were folded into DOC when it was formed in 1987...

Christopher's Hut, St James Walkway...built by the walkway Commission in the early 1970's

Hut No. 3 is another example of Walking Commission hut

Very few of the originals survive but here and there around the country you will strike an old Internal Affairs or Walking Commission hut.

Great Walk Huts


Some huts are built just to take advantage of the Great Walks at variety of locations around the contry. The first were huts built on the Milford Track as money was to be made guiding people along the tracks. These tracks were taken over buy the tramping community and huts such as Anchorage are the result.

Anchorage Hut in the Abel Tasman...

In the modern world these huts are the home of tourists who are looking for an easy track with not a lot of  hazards causing access problems. While some tourist are fairly exprieneced these hut and tracks offer a more simple experience. 


...Anchorage again...a more classy option... 

You will find few of any New Zealanders on these tracks...they prefer to visit some hard track usually on the West Coast or some other area were there are fewer visitors. 


Club Huts: Tramping and skiing huts

  A number of huts were built by tramping clubs for general use. They tend to be built in places were there is a high concentration of tramping and can range from basic to lavious in the extreme. Examples include Field Hut in the Tararuas, and Aspiring in Mt aspiring. 

Field Hut...oldest continuosly ocuppied hut in the country

Others like Kea Hut in Nelson Lakes National Park are old ex ski lodges which were built for some skiing adventures...they can be either private or public buildings and were built to serve a purpose. When the need for the hut wans the hut becomes general property.

Kea Hut is an ex ski field hut

Kea Hut is located in Nelson Lake National Park

These type of huts tend to come into DOC's care when the maintainence of the hut or connecting track becomes too expensive or hard. There are several huts which are administered by DOC but controlled by a particular tramping club. 

  Memorial Huts: Remember those who are gone

Some huts were built to remember people who ha died in the outdoors. Examples of these huts are widespread and include such hut as Fenella Huts in Nelson and Manson Nichols built here in Canterbury. These huts where built to remember those who went before. 

Manson-Nichols Memorial Hut at Lake Daniell

Another memorial Hut is Fenella Hut in Kahurangi National Park, this hut was paid for and partially build by the friends and family of a tramper who died when the Three Johns Hut was blown off a ridge-line near Mt Cook. Fenella Druce's family raised the money for this hut and assisted in its construction.

Fenella Hut in Kahurangi National Park

These are still being built as the demand for huts has not dimished as the years hare progress. 

Historic Huts:

 Some huts were built to take advantage of trampers going into the bush to enjoy the scenic pleasures. 

Historic Packhorse Hut on Kaituna Saddle

  Packhorse Hut was intended to be one of several huts built on the Banks Peninsula to take advantage of the rise in the popularity of tramping there. It was recently repaired (sice the Christchurch earthquakes) and is open to all comers to visit.

 

Modern DOC huts

The Department of Conversation or DOC have responsibility for the public estate; all lands, tracks, huts and ancillaries owned by the government in the interest of the public. First set up in 1987 they have taken over functions of many previous government departments and are now the guardians of public lands.

Since 1987 they have built a number of huts around the country as well as replacing those that have been destroyed, damaged or reached the end of their useful life.

Magdalen Hut, Lake Sumner FP 2017




  Unfortunately DOC like every other government department are at the mercy of what ever political grouping holds power. At no fault of their own they have suffered from a lack of clear vision, plans are made but then the government changes and they are shelved. They have also been starved fr funds since their inception....DOC controls over 40% of the land in New Zealand yet has an annual budget of less than $300 million to do everything required to maintain the conservation estate.

Anne Hut, St James Recreation Reserve, 2015

When DOC build huts they tend to be focused on recreation and front of country areas...the huts are very comfortable and are build to comply with modern building codes so are insulated, have double glazing and utilise environmentally friendly materials. This means they are costly...a typical 6-10 person hut costs $200 000 a big hut like Anne Hut or Luxmore hut on the Kepler (both 30-40 person) will be $700 000. 

Anchorage Hut in the Able Tasman National Park....modern comforts included!

What this means is less huts ae built and those already in existence do not receive the finances to maintain them properly. Some assistance is provided by volunteer groups maintaining huts/tracks and facilities but this is really only a stop gap measure. Eventually the number of huts/tracks/facilities MUST drop unless sufficient funding is provided. I urge all people who enjoy the outdoors to vote for political parties that 

Public/Private partnership huts

There have always been private back-country huts in this country but they tended to be for the use of a particular group of people: friends, family, members of clubs etc. Many of these huts are run by or administered by trust groups and their numbers are growing each year.

One of the private huts in the Orongoorongo Valley near Wellington

A good example of this is Mt Brown Hut on the ranges around Lake Kaniere on the West Coast of the South Island. A private trust oversaw construction using their own funds, government donation and resources from DOC Westland. It was the first private/public hut collaboration in the country and really pointed the way forward for this type of operation.

Mt Brown Hut, high above Lake Kaniere, Central Westland

Another example is Rod Donald Hut on the Summit Walkway/Te Ara Pataka on Banks Peninsula. The hut was built to make it possible for a 1-3 day tramp to exist from Hilltop Tavern to Gebbies Pass. It and the 100 hectare replanted native forest surrounding it are administered by a trust but are feely available to any person to use.

Rod Donald Hut, Banks Peninsula

In a time of shrinking budgets I think  it is appropriate and useful for private groups to assist with picking up the slack and building huts with a bit of outside assistance. 

The future?

So, where to now....perhaps a look at one of the newest DOC huts points to the future.

The newest DOC hut in the country is Waiau Hut at the head of the Waiau River. This hut was built by DOC with nearly $300 000 dollars donated by an anonymous international benefactor who is a Te Araroa Trail alumni.

Newest DOC Hut in New Zealand: Waiau River Hut, on the Waiau Pass Route 2018

The hut was completed over Summer 2017/18,  it will be the newest hut on conservation land and a vital link between various tramping/climbing/mountain biking trails in the Waiau River Valley. It looks to be built to the same pattern as Magdalen Hut on the mid reaches of the Boyle River.

The standard DOC 6 bunk hut design...Magdalen Hut




Talk about Hump Ridge and Old Ghost Road


Are we likely to see more examples of huts built using bequests/donations?  It is hard to say but it is definitely a possibility going into the future. Certainly if I was ever in a position to donate significant money to DOC I would do so (...for a swing-bridge over the Boyle River at the entrance to the  Doubtful Valley...for safer access for TA trekkers and to provide easier access to this lovely valley...).


The Doubtful River Valley, Lewis Pass Scenic Reserve
 
The Department of Conservation have control of 60% of the land area of New Zealand yet are strapped for money and are constantly pressured to increase revenue from the outdoors. As it is unlikely to ever receive enough resources to do their job other means must be sought.

 

Sunday 12 June 2022

Hut life at Kohanga Atawai/Manson Nichols Hut

..an overnight stay at Manson Nichols Hut...

Back in May I went for the first of my 2022 Winter series of tramps. I walked up to Lake Daniell in the Lewis Pass National Reserve on Sunday morning and spent an afternoon and evening at the hut. The weather was less than optimal so I ended up having the whole 20 bunk hut to myself for the night. 


Manson Nichols hut in the Lewis Pass National Reserve

Lake Daniell from the side porch of the hut

I thought we might take some time to look at the typical activities you will encounter at a backcountry hut here in New Zealand. I call this hut life...


A look at backcountry hut life...

The hut at Lake Daniell known as Manson Nichols Hut was built back in 2020 after the previous 40 year old hut was deemed uneconomic to repair. It is a real beauty and very typical of the type of huts the Department of Conservation are building in front country locations. It is super popular with West Coasters/Cantabrians and you will find it full to the brim most weekends and over the holidays. 

Side entrance to Manson Nichols Hut

Fancy composting toilets at Manson Nichols Hut

View from the throne room at Manson Nichols Hut

Manson Nichols Hut is a 20 bunker with two bunk rooms with different configurations and a large central dining-living area. It has that classic plywood look inside which I actually find very attractive to live in. It has all the mod cons like inside solar lighting, water taps, plenty of bench space and multiple tables to sit at.

Hey...what more do you need in a backcountry hut!!!


Manson Nichols Hut: the mud room at the hut

This hut is on the DOC booking system so you know you will have a bunk to sleep on which is one reason it is so popular with families, social groups, schools and tramping clubs. I looked before setting off from the car and there were three of us booked for the Sunday night. The other two people never turned up so I had the hut completely to myself which was nice after how busy everywhere  has been over the last summer.


Manson Nichols Hut: Interior living area

Manson Nichols Hut: the cooking benches

There are two bunkrooms in this hut; one with eight individual bunks and the other with two sleeping platforms which hold 12 additional visitors. I stayed in the room with the platforms as this allowed me to make a mattress mountain with four mattresses stacked next to each other for greater comfort. 

Manson Nichols Hut: the bunkroom I used

When you arrive at a hut the first thing you should do is work through a list of hut chores...this is best done when you arrive so you can get cleaned up afterward and enjoy your stay. Some of the hut chores I usually do are:

Gathering/Chopping firewood and bringing a ready supply inside
Removing and hanging up my wet clothing
Setting up my sleeping area
Claiming a spot for my cooking gear on the bench
Sweeping the floors through the hut and depositing the dust outside
Wiping down the tables and cooking benches
General tidying and cleaning around the hut
Boiling water for that first cup of tea at the hut

The previous occupants had done quite a good job so these tasks only took me about 30 minutes to complete.

Water tanks at Manson Nichols Hut

There was next to no wood at the hut and the forest was wet as it had been raining for 2-3 days. I chopped up what wood I could find and dragged a pile of tree branches and damp logs into the empty wood shed so it could dry out for the next people. 

I had just enough wood for a fire that night...

The woodburner inside Manson Nichols Hut

Once I had the hut ready to go I boiled some water for a brew and some lunch...I was eating freeze dried meals on this trip as I have a stack that are approaching their best before date. For lunch I had a Backcountry Cooked Breakfast and it was damn fine. They have changed the recipe of this meal and it is much more palatable than it used to be...recommend!!!

Preparing lunch at Manson Nichols Hut

I had Manson Nichols Hut to myself


Backcountry Cuisine Cooked Breakfast for lunch

After lunch and cleaning up my cooking gear I spent a couple of hours doing some vlogging work in the hut. I filmed the hut, the food I was carrying and some other subjects as well. Meanwhile I had a couple of hot brews and enjoyed the snacks I had not eaten on the short walk in to the hut.


Jon does some vlogging at Manson Nichols Hut

I went outside in a lull in the rain and filmed around the outside of the hut...on the veranda, out the back of the hut and at the nearby campsite cooking shelter. If the weather had been better I would have gone for a walk along the lake shoreline but the clear windows lasted for only minutes at a time.

Lake Daniell from the veranda at Manson Nichols Hut

Manson Nichols Hut veranda...picnic table and benches

The campsite cooking shelter at Lake Daniell

Rain rolls in over Lake Daniell, Lewis Pass National Reserve

Because I had so little dry wood I had to forgo lighting the fire until later in the evening but I did prepare it so I could light it as soon as it started to get dark outside. I used my typical fire setting method and left it until around 5 pm when I started the fire to warm the hut up a bit. Here is a vlog I made about using the woodburner you will find in most DOC huts...

I prepare the woodburner...Manson Nichols Hut

...classic cross hatch stack of kindling....

The previous visitors had huge big chonks of wood stacked up next to the fire so I removed a lot of it and took it outside to chop into smaller pieces. I also gathered a fist full of twigs and chips of wood to stack on top of my tinder. I found just enough to get the fire started with and hauled a pile of thiner tree branches into the wood shed for future visitors to use. 


Looking for twigs in the woodshed at Manson Nichols Hut

...my twig bundle for the fire...

Woodburner is ready to go at Manson Nichols Hut

I sat at one of the tables for an hour or so drinking tea and reading the supply of magazines I found in the hut. I also dropped off a couple of Ian Rankin books I had humped into the hut with me so if you are a Rebus fan there are two of his early books up there...

My cooking equipment at Manson Nichols Hut

The rain stopped for about an hour late in the afternoon and it allowed me to head out and take the obligatory shot of the hut from the boat dock...

Manson Nichols Hut from the Lake Daniell dock

Lake Daniell at Lewis Pass National Reserve

I got the fire going around 5pm and it soon had the hut toasty warm. One of the advantages with new huts are the double glazed windows and insulation...if you light a fire it will retain the warmth and makes for a more comfortable place to stay.

Woodburner blazing away at Manson Nichols Hut

Dinner that night was another Backcountry meal this time a Spaghetti Bolognaise two person serve. I had this with some Chicken Noodle simmer soup that I cooked on top of the woodburner. It is always a good idea to add a soup to your dinner for some added calories and flavor and it is especially nice on a cold winter's night. 

...simmering some soup at Manson Nichols Hut...

The MSR Windburner stove had an outing on this trip and it performed awesomely...it is a fantastic stove and best suited to these shorter in-out trips and over the winter. You will be seeing more of it going forward. I made a vlog clip about using a canister style stove in a backcountry hut while I was there.


I was using my MSR Windburner stove on this trip

Dinner spot selected...Manson Nichols Hut

It was warm enough in the hut to take off my fleece and I sat and ate my dinner while reading old Wilderness magazines from the early 1990's. They were having the same problems back then as we have now. Huts burning down, lack of money for DOC, tourist numbers, climate change, environmental problems etc. The ads for outdoor gear were interesting...lots of local gear and little from overseas but not as much variety as now. 

Chow time for Jon, Manson Nichols Hut

After dinner and cleaning up my gear I stoked up the fire and settled into my pit for a couple of hours of reading and listening to music. I really need some kind of lite weight speaker so I could play music in the huts. I could bother people with my tunes...how about some 80's classics from George Michael, Sting, Phil Collins or even the Smiths..

...I was minding my own business...lifting some lead off...
The roof of the holy name Church...
It was worthwhile living a laughable life...

To set my eyes on the blistering sight...
Of a Vicar in a tutu...he's not strange...
He just wants to live his life that way...


 Every now and then I went and made myself a hot drink or chucked some wood on the fire.

My pit set up at Manson Nichols Hut

 I finally turned off the lights and went to sleep about 9.30 pm and had a long peaceful sleep. I slept more or less solidly from about 10pm to 7am the next morning. It was one of the nicest sleeps I have ever had in a backcountry hut. 

Day two and breakfast...

I was walking out to the carpark on the Monday morning so after I woke up at 7am I started on my morning routine. I boiled some water for my freeze dried meal which was Backcountry Apple Pie. It is a spicy mix of apple filling and some shortbread biscuits to crush over the top of it. It is one of the better Backcountry meals and is good for breakfast or as a dessert. 


Breakfast the next morning at Manson Nichols Hut

After eating breakfast I packed up my gear and tidied up the hut before leaving. The tasks when leaving a hut are much the same as when you get there so things like;

Packing up your gear...don't leave anything behind
Stack the mattresses on their sides
Clean down the benches and tables
Tidy the area around the fireplace/woodburner
Sweep the floors
Check all windows are shut and the fire is closed down and safe
Close all the hut doors and make sure no animals/vermin can get inside

After I completed all these tasks and had a last look around the hut I geared up for the walk out to the road end. 

Dark and gloomy over Lake Daniell

My gear packed and ready at Manson Nichols Hut

On the way to the start of the Lake Daniell Track I walked down to the dock on Lake Daniell for one last look back at the hut. 


Last view of Manson Nichols Hut from the dock

Classic view of Lake Daniell, Lewis Pass National Reserve

It was lightly raining as I left the hut but the Lake Daniell Track is an all weather one so I knew I was going to be able to make it back to my car for the homeward trip. It continued to rain all the way out to the car so I had to wear my jacket for the three hour walk to Marble Hill. 

Farewell to Manson Nichols Hut until next time....

Hopefully that gives you a bit of an idea of the sort of things you do when you are in a backcountry hut. Obviously if anyone else had been there we would probably have chatted and or played some cards. I sometimes take some wine with me on tramps or a cheeky whiskey. Personally I quite like to have the occasional time to myself where you can just sit in quietude and enjoy your own company. It is a good escape from a hectic world...