Tuesday 17 March 2020

DOC Hut Intentions Books....what they are and why you should fill them in!!!

A source of information for the tramper, SAR and DOC


One thing you will find in every back country hut in New Zealand is the ubiquitous green and gold intentions book. They are supplied by the Department of Conservation and are there to impart useful information to trampers and to record the passage of anyone who has stayed at or visited that hut. 


Cover of the ubiquitous back-country hut intentions book

The front of the book has pages of excellent general tramping information covering a broad range of topics This is followed by a number of pre-formatted pages where you can add you name, date of arrival, hut payment method, home location and intended movements once you leave the hut.

Every solo tramper or a designated member of any group should be filling in these details at each and every back country hut they are visiting. 

Typical entries in a DOC Intentions Book, Kahikatea Shelter, Pelorous Bridge

You will often find the intentions book sitting on the dining table in the hut but they can also be found in specially built book holders on a convenient wall, bunk or flat surface. They usually have a pen attached or close to the book but you should always carry your own pen for writing messages in an emergency. 


In Lakehead hut, Nelson Lakes National Park...note hut book holder...
..a more elaborate intentions book holder in Bark Bay Hut, Abel Tasman NP...

Reading the entries in the intentions book is one of the stand out pleasures I get when staying in a hut...you will read stories of raging rivers crossed, mountain peaks conquered, bush bashed, new routes discovered, epic meals consumed, adventures long dreamed of finally completed. 

If you are a keen tramper like me you will get to recognize some of the names...legendary names like Spearpoint, Barnett, Potton, Ledbrook and Salisbury but also others less well known. You will also see tramping clubs, walking clubs, people you work with or might have once met in some tramping hut. 

There is almost always something interesting and or relevant to be gleamed from the pages. 


Hut book open in John Tait Hut ready for Jon to complete...

Lets have a look at this icon of the back country hut and see what information it can impart to us. 


What information will I find in an intentions book

The DOC intentions book is jammed full of valuable information for the novice and experienced tramper alike and it is well worth taking time to read the first ten pages of the book the next time you are at a hut.

The hut intentions book on a table in Rod Donald Hut, Banks Peninsula

I thought it might be useful to break the information down and look at the contents in the front of the book on a page by page basis. Let us take a typical hut intentions book say from Mangetepopo Hut in Tongariro National Park and look at that information....


Hut intentions book: front page and hut details...Mangatepopo Hut

Headings covered in the front of a DOC intentions book

Each of the pages has a different heading, the first heading is.....


Hut Users Guide

These are general recommendations on proper behavior and good etiquette in and around back country huts. This includes making space for newcomers, not taking more space than required, not moving another trampers gear, conserving firewood, cleaning huts before you go etc. etc.

Huts are a communal space & tramping is a communal activity but modern society is anything but communal. The modern world is programmed for self gratification so people can often be selfish and have little thought or sympathy for those around them.

Tramping involves an awful lot of communal living....

Most of this should not need explanation to any tramper but as I have seen recently people need to be educated. This stuff is second nature to people who have spent time in the military or emergency services if they come from a big family or have attended a boarding school or halls of residence.

I personally feel the old trampers ethos of mutually supportive self sufficiency is eroding....trampers, hunters and climbers used to get along well in the confines of a hut. I see increasing tension and more selfish behavior... I think it is directly related to the growing numbers using the back-country hut system.

More crowded conditions = more aggro = less enjoyable tramping!


Hut intentions book: the hut users code....


The basic tenet for happy hut life should always be...show kindness and consideration to those around you...



What to do in an emergency:

This page contains some basic information about immediate actions you should consider in the event of an emergency. There is a list of emergency service phone numbers, advice on activating a PLB and the information you need to provide to SAR/DOC/Police if you manage to contact them and can pas this information on.



Hut intentions book: Emergency information
This stuff is vital and is probably some of the most important information provided in the intentions book...


Don't get sick/Look after the environment(Leave no trace):

This is general health and hygiene information for outdoor enthusiasts...not everyone knows how to keep themselves healthy in a communal outdoor situation. We are having increasing problems with gastrointestinal viruses at huts...Norovirus and Salmonella are two of the worst. A few key points;

  • wash your hands regularly and thoroughly
  • keep human waste out of the water table
  • use outside sinks for washing/cleaning your teeth. 
  • Indoor sinks for food preparation, dish washing only
  • treat drinking water if recommended or required
  • if you get sick take steps to minimise the spread of germs
  • inform the authorities if there is a widespread outbreak of sickness

Hut intentions book: LNT Leave No Trace information

When they talk about looking after the environment they are talking about Leave No Trace (LNT) principles. The seven LNT principles are intended to minimise your impact on the outdoor environment...they are;

  • Plan ahead and prepare
  • Travel and camp on durable surfaces
  • Dispose of waste properly
  • Leave what you find
  • Minimise the effects of fire
  • Respect wildlife and farm animals
  • Be considerate of others

You should always try to minimise your environmental impact...remember....take only photos, leave only footprints!





General Survival Information

There are a couple of pages of general survival information that can help to keep you safe when you are out exploring the outdoors. The first two are about hypothermia and navigation. 

Hypothermia is one of the most dangerous health concerns when tramping...it is an over cooling of the body's core temperature which can lead to lethargy, irrational thought patterns, physical collapse and ultimately death. It is not as prevalent as it used to be due to advances in tramping clothing BUT there are still several deaths a year from hypothermia.


Hypothermia is a silent killer here in New Zealand...

It can happen to anyone..I have personally had very mild hypothermia a couple of times over the years...you often don't realise you have hypothermia when it is happening to you. This is because one of the symptoms is dis-associative behavior i.e. you are acting out of character but do not realise you are.


Cold, wet and windy conditions contribute to hypothermia...
On my recent tramp on the Routeburn track last December we had several people in the mid stages of hypothermia at Howdon Hut. It was perfect weather for it...cold, windy, heavy rain and people woefully ill prepared to be out in those conditions. Luckily some of us old timer trampers recognised the symptoms and took action to assist the people affected. I actually had my PLB out at one stage as one woman was looking really unwell but she recovered with warm clothes, some food and a couple of hours of rest.

Awful weather on the Routeburn Track in December 2019...

You need to know the signs of hypothermia and how to deal with it effectively both for your sake and for those around you.  The hut book is a good start but read some general tramping manuals, books on outdoor medicine, look for authoritative online information and keep yourself and your tramping buddies safe.  



Hut intentions book: survival information

The information about navigation is not so much how to as how to avoid making navigation errors. Basically it is important to always be in the here and now i.e keep your mind on the task at hand...stay together if in a group, regroup on a regular basis, think before you act, consider the results of your actions and do not let outside distractions lead you from the righteous path...hallelujah brothers and sisters!

Stay together when tramping in a group......

The second two topics are about weather and river crossings....if you are new to this country be aware that we can have warm sunny conditions in the morning and be in the middle of a raging beast of a storm by 12 noon! We have a oceanic environment so our weather is unpredictable, fickle and changes in a heartbeat. Keep up to date with weather forecasts, know how to identify different weather conditions and be prepared for all eventualities with good clothing and appropriate outdoor skills.


Hut intentions book: outdoor safety information
River crossing is a vital skill in New Zealand as we are surrounded by potentially dangerous lakes, rivers and the oceans. So many people drowned in colonial times that it was known as the "New Zealand Death" !!! Even now with our modern gear and vastly better water skills people are  constantly dying crossing waterways...point of illustration...six people have already drowned in tramping accidents since January 2020.

Stop, look, think...is this river safe to cross!!!!

The information in the intentions book is a very condensed version...the best thing you can do is to take an approved river crossing course with experienced instructors. You also gain experience as you tramp...I have been tramping for more than 20 years and I am still learning new river crossing skills all the time.
Key points here are:


  • Always scout possible river crossing points before entering the water
  • Ensure that your exit from the opposite side of the river will be smooth and safe
  • Never cross a river solo if you can cross as part of a group.
  • If you must cross solo use a stout branch as a crossing aid
  • Do not cross a river if it is flowing faster than walking pace, is discolored or you can hear debris rolling along the bottom 
  • Do not cross a flooded river.


Never cross a fast flowing, discolored and swollen river...

If there is any doubt around crossing a river DONT...find a better crossing place or wait for better conditions.

Always ask...do I need to cross that river???


What goes wrong/Prevent accidents occurring


A good way to enhance your safety outdoors is to cultivate an interest in the stories of those who have come to grief. You often find that outdoor accidents are repetitive...they happen in the same location or the injury has happened to many different people. If you learn about the way other trampers have injured themselves you can adjust your own behaviour to avoid the same result.


Hut intentions book: consider outdoor accident information
Good sources of information about outdoor accidents abound...the Mountain Safety Council or  MSC publish regular reports on the accidents that occur in the New Zealand outdoors. You can also find discussions about outdoor accidents in the FMC journal Backcountry as they have a regular column on this topic called Backcountry Accidents.

An excellent book about this subject is High Misadventures: New Zealand mountaineering tragedies and survival stories by Paul Hersey.


Backcountry has a regular column about outdoor accidents...

I just did a quick search of our library catalogue and we have over 20 books on the subject...other libraries will have similar numbers. 


The outdoor safety code

The outdoor safety code is a New Zealand specific list of steps you should take before undertaking any trip to the back-country. Following these steps can help to keep you safe, healthy and happy while tramping.

The 5 key points are:

  • Plan your trip
  • Tell someone your plans
  • Be aware of the weather
  • Know your limits
  • Take sufficient supplies

Follow these steps every time you go out tramping to help get you home safe....

Hut intentions book: the outdoor safety code
Hut intentions book: how to make it home.....


Lastly there is a list of important emergency numbers on the inside cover of every hut book...if you have cell reception use these numbers to contact DOC/SAR/Police. 


Hut intentions book: useful phone numbers/email addresses

Note: If you arrive at a hut and find the intentions book is full please let the closest DOC office know so they can replace them. I often stop at local DOC offices and ask if they need one taken to a hut on my intended route. They appreciate the help....

Why it is important to fill in your personal details

The actual purpose of the intentions book is as a guide to SAR/DOC if you become lost and to gather generalized information about who is staying in that particular hut. It has never and will never be used to try to track down people who have not paid their hut fees. You have nothing to lose and everything to gain by filling out the intentions book...


Hut intentions book on table in Rod Donald Hut, Banks Peninsula

DOC use the information in the hut book to parcel out funding for such things as track maintenance, hut maintenance and replacement of old facilities. More entries (i.e: more people visiting the hut...) means more dirty lucre for that location. If you do not sign the book DOC (as a government department is apt to do) just assume that nobody is using the hut. 

No usage statistics = no money....it is as simple as that!!!!


Hut intentions book: in depth details of individuals/parties

The other main use for the hut intentions book is as an aid to Search and Rescue operations for lost trampers. If you go missing in the hills or forests the very first place SAR will go to look for information about you is in the intentions books. If they know for instance that you were at Upper Travers Hut one night but did not turn up to West Sabine the next it immediately narrows the radius of any search efforts.


Hut intentions books are the first place DOC/Police/SAR look when you go missing...

You should become religious in filling out the intentions book...after grabbing a bunk and putting on a brew it is the next considered action I take every time I arrive at a hut. Make sure you clearly note your intended route as well as any alternate routes you might be using. Try to encourage other hut users to also fill in their intentions but obviously don't pressure them to do so. 

The hut book as an expression of being...

I have seen a variety of different things in hut books but other than track information the main things you see are art works and non tramping related writing. People often get bored in huts once the meal has been consumed and the card game or book doesn't entice as once it might have.

Resting on my bunk in Magdalen Hut...bit of light reading...brew to hand...nice!!!

Many people have artistic talents and when you are sitting bored in a hut on a zero day it always seems like you are looking for something to do...hey I know lets draw in the hut book. The quality ranges from poor to excellent..the example below is a very nicely drawn picture of a Weta from the hut book in Magdalen Hut. This is typical of the genre...rivers, mountain vistas, flora and fauna are all well represented.

Little stick men with huge appendages and stick women with massive chestal shelves also put in a regular appearance...


Hut intentions book: artwork on the front cover of a book

Closer detail of artwork in a hut intentions book
I have often seen poetry, ditty's, haiku's, philosophical ramblings and deep inner thoughts expressed in intentions books. Usually they are thoughtful and considered but sometimes they can get a bit ribald. So long as you don't go too far.....try to limit the swearing thanks. Don't rant about 1080 either!!!! Remember kids stay in huts and they can read your nasty, smutty comments just as well as an adult...

If you are walking along a section of the Te Araroa Trail you will often see communications between various trekkers telling each other where they intend to go, where to meet up, good or bad track conditions and if they are doing o.k. It makes for some interesting reading....especially the colorful nicknames.


Hut intentions book: an ongoing (slightly sleazy) conversation in a book..

What about Jon...does he add his own personal contribution to hut books?

By gawd yes he says...this is my usual witty entry...

I went to say goodnight to Pwarse the fish, 
I said '...Goodnight Pwarse..."

If you ever see this in a hut book then you know I have visited at some stage.....I cannot claim authorship of this ditty, one of my school mates made it up for our end of year journal back in 1985.....I just like it.

I have also been known to quote from the Anonymous riff on West Coast rain...


Anonymous poem about New Zealand rain...

I look forward to reading your intentions book entries in the future...

Thursday 12 March 2020

Pinnacles Hut,Mt Somers: Hakatere Conservation Park: 29 February-1 March 2020

 Another tramp in the Mt Somers area...


My latest tramp was a return to the Hakatere Conservation Park and an in and out overnight trip to Pinnacles Hut. Pinnacles Hut is on the eastern side of Mt Somers and is the second of two huts you might stay in if doing the circuit around the mountain. 


Mt Somers from Flynn's Road on my way home Sunday, Staveley

Sharplin Falls car-park with Dukes Knob in the background, Mt Somers

From the settlement at Staveley you head for the car-park at Sharplin Falls the track is a combination of hill climbing, river side track and stairs for the next 11 km's or 3-4 hours. You cross a number of side streams en-route but the main crossing of Bowyers Creek is bridged. In heavy rain this is not an all weather track but you can walk all the way to Pony Stream so it would still be a good day walk. 


Walking up Bowyers Stream on the Mt Somers Track, Hakatere Conservation Park

The swing-bridge over Bowyers Stream, Mt Somers Track

Waterfall near the Bowyers Stream swing-bridge, Mt Somers Track

Pinnacles Hut is a nice place to stay for a night...it is older than Woolshed Creek Hut and not as spacious but it is well maintained and in a gorgeous location. It has both single and double bunks so expect to do some spooning if heading up here over a busy weekend. You must book your bunk before you visit but there are many excellent camping spots around the hut. 



Pinnacles Hut in early morning light, Mt Somers Track


I really enjoy the Hakatere area as there is such a wide range of things to do there...historic farm buildings, lakes and rivers, easier flat walks, hill climbs, multi-day tramps, Te Araroa Trail sections and a wealth of excellent back-country huts to visit and bag. This as my fourth visit to the area and I see many more visits provided I am able in the coming years. 


Sharplin Falls car-park to Pinnacles Hut


I left my car parked in the Sharplin Falls car park...this is the start of both the Mt Somers Track to Pinnacles Hut and the South Face Track around the front face on Mt Somers. The car park has a dubious reputation for car break-ins and vandalism so DOC have installed a ton of cameras and the Police send regular patrols here now to catch the scum bags...


At Sharplin Falls car park, Mt Somers Track, Hakatere Conservation Park

The shelter at Sharplin Falls car-park, Mt Somers Track, Hakatere Conservation Park

Make sure you securely lock your car and leave valuables at home of lock them out of harms reach. There is a very nice shelter at the car park...you cannot sleep here but it is a god send for sorting out your gear or for use as a lunch spot before tackling one of the tracks. Apart from the shelter and the toilets there is very little here....


Start of the Mt Somers Track, Hakatere Conservation Park

...3-4 hours to Pinnacles hut....

On the Mt Somers Track, Hakatere Conservation Park

The Mt Somers track starts right from the car-park...you head down the shady track to a fixed bridge about 40 meters along your way. It was rainy and cold as I set out from here and I was in my rain jacket for nearly three hours from this point as it never cleared enough for me to take it off.

I got wet and hot climbing all the hills but it was fine while walking the flats... 


Fixed bridge over Bowyers Stream...start of the Mt Somers Track, Hakatere Conservation Park

View down river from the Bowyers Stream fixed bridge

View upriver from the Bowyers Stream fixed bridge

Mt Somers Track, Hakatere Conservation Park: along Bowyers Stream
First part of the track was a series of flat sections running along the side of Bowyers Stream...it was attractive with lots of ferns and many large podocarp trees along the way. Then you started the real business of the day...the 400 odd meter climb to the top of Dukes Knob. 

To start with all was well...it was quality track from the start of the climb right up to the Sharplin Falls turnoff...and more of those damn stairs!!!


Start of the climb to Dukes Knob, Mt Somers Track, Hakatere Conservation Park

Thick undergrowth of flax and ferns...Mt Somers Track, Hakatere Conservation Park
First stairs to Dukes Knob...Mt Somers Track, Hakatere Conservation Park

Sharplin Falls used to be one of the main attractions of walking in this area but unfortunately the track is now closed as there is a risk of rock fall close to the falls. The Christchurch earthquakes strike once again....It seems unlikely that DOC will ever reopen the track but the fact that is is merely fenced off and not ripped up gives some hope...


Closed track to Sharplin Falls...Mt Somers Track, Hakatere Conservation Park

The track deteriorated a bit after the Sharplin Falls turn off..it was no longer Great Walk style but rough, step, muddy and rocky. You have about 300 meters of elevation gain to get to the top of the Knob and it is step right to the end of this section. I just about bailed out here as it was very wet and very slippery but I just kept plodding to the top of the hill instead....


Steep, rough and muddy climbing Dukes Knob

Hard yaka climbing the Mt Somers Track, Hakatere Conservation Park

...some sections are rock ladders...Dukes Knob, Mt Somers Track

Topping out on Dukes Knob, Mt Somers Track

The gradient evens out a little when you get close to the top of the Knob...it was merely steep and irritating and not steep, slippery and infuriating. The forest changes from podocarp trees to beech as you gain height so that the whole top of Dukes Knob is covered in young beech trees. I stopped for my first rest break near the summit and had a drink and a snack to get my energy levels up.


Flat beech forest on top of Dukes Knob, Mt Somers Track

Start of the descent down to Pony Stream, Mt Somers Track

Walking across the plateau on Dukes Knob, Mt Somers Track

Zero visibility into Bowyers Valley from the Mt Somers Track

From the top of Dukes Knob it is a gradual sidling downhill for the next 30 minutes as you make your way along and then down to Bowyers Stream. It was easier walking down this side of the hill as the track was better maintained. I passed a number of trampers & hunters along this section...they were all heading out after spending the night at Pinnacles Hut.


Pole Beech forest on the descent fro Dukes Knob, Mt Somers Track

First view of the bottom of the valley descending from Dukes Knob, Mt Somers Track


Mt Somers Track: in Bowyers Valley beyond Dukes Knob

Eventually the track dumps you out on Bowyers Stream about 500 meters away from the Pony Stream confluence. You are walking along the side of the river for about two kilometers mostly on a formed track but also in the bed of the river. It could be difficult to head up river in heavy rain as I saw evidence of flooding right along this section....


Bowyers Stream, Mt Somers Track, Hakatere Conservation Park

Fixed chain on the Mt Somers Track, Hakatere Conservation Park

Walking alongside Bowyers Stream near Pony Stream, Mt Somers Track, Hakatere Conservation Park

Pony Stream is the crux of this tramp....it is a small un-bridged side stream easy enough to cross on this day but I would imagine it could be impassible in heavier rain. DOC really need to put in a high fixed bridge here for safety as this is a track a lot of tourists and novices tramp. There was a dangerous run out here directly into a deep par of the main river...perfect terrain for drowning an unwary tramper..


Mt Somers Track: Pony Stream & Bowyers Stream confluence
Past Pony Stream is a bit of river scrambling including a section with a fixed chain along a narrow shelf before climbing up and over a small ridge just before the Bowyers Stream swing-bridge. The swing-bridge crosses Bowyers Stream and is roughly half way to Pinnacles Hut.


Approaching the swing-bridge over Bowyers Stream, Mt Somers Track

Bowyers Stream swing bridge, Mt Somers Track, Hakatere Conservation Park

Bowyers Stream swing bridge, Mt Somers Track, Hakatere Conservation Park

I stopped just past the bridge for a 10 minute break...there is a nice spot on the river bank where you can see a small waterfall coming down of Pt. 890. It would be a nice place for lunch if you were walking later in the day.


Small waterfall near Bowyers Stream swing-bridge, Mt Somers

From the swing-bridge you are walking up along the side of Bowyers Stream for about the next 15 minutes some on track and some in the bed of the stream. You come to a fixed chain up a steep and muddy slope and from this point you are climbing well away from the stream on a gradually ascending sidle track. 

There are a few side streams crossing the track through here but all should be fine in all but the heaviest rainfall. 


On Mt Somers Track, Hakatere Conservation Park

Walking beside Bowyers Stream, Mt Somers Track, Hakatere Conservation Park

More fixed chains on the Mt Somers Track, Hakatere Conservation Park

Track marker near Pt.890, Mt Somers Track, Hakatere Conservation Park

Crossing a side stream near Pony Knob, Mt Somers Track

Step and narrow single track along Mt Somers Track, Hakatere Conservation Park

Twenty minutes up the track you pass close to some high limestone bluffs with caves along the base and water seeps falling off the edge. The main cascade was running hard as it was still raining off and on right through the day. 


Approaching the limestone cliffs on the Mt Somers Track

The Mt Somers Track limestone cliffs near Bowyers Stream

Cave at the Bowyers Stream limestone cliffs, Mt Somers Track

Cascade at the limestone cliffs, Mt Somers Track, Hakatere Conservation Park

From this point on you start climbing more steeply as you make your way up towards the head of the valley that Bowyers Stream runs down. The track condition is good for the most part and again there are a couple of side streams running across the track at various places. You are getting into the final stretch of the track....


Some of the Mt Somers Track is a root ladder

Bowyers Stream from Mt Somers Track

Tawa grove along the Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

Pole Beech on the Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

Steep climb out of a stream, Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

Fernery along the upper part of the Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

At one point the main track has been blocked off and a new by-pass track built in its place...i have no reason why but the track has probably slipped down into Bowyers Stream at some point. The track looks newish...maybe a couple of months old and has still not settled in properly. 

A work in progress I believe...


New by-pass track, Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

Steep climb out of the by-pass track, Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

First view of Pinnacles Hut, Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers
You reach the top of the by-pass track and find yourself looking down into the basin that Pinnacles Hut sits in. You can see the hut on the other side of the basin and some 600-700 odd meters in the distance as well as the course of the track to Woolshed Creek Hut heading up into the hills behind the hut.

I was passed by here by one of the family groups who were staying in the hut that night...the father was a doppelganger for Bill English (ex Prime Minister of New Zealand) and as I have told several people since he really looked like Bill English....poor dumb bastard!!!


Fellow trampers heading for Pinnacles Hut, Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

Pinnacles Hut, Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

The stream that runs past Pinnacles Hut, Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

I got to Pinnacles Hut just after 2 pm so I had been on the track for somewhere around 3.5 hours...

At Pinnacles Hut, Mt Somers

I don't admit saying I felt a bit shagged by the time I got to Pinnacles hut...I had my jacket on for nearly three hours and it had been hot, dirty and sweaty work walking up Dukes Knob. The first thing I did after claiming a bunk in the hut was to get a brew on and sit down for a belated lunch. I had my standard Sesameal crackers, salami and Baby Bell cheese rounds...yummy...!


View out to Canterbury Plains from Pinnacles Hut

Veranda of Pinnacles Hut, Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

Pinnacles Hut is one of two huts on the Mt Somers Circuit...it is the older of the two and was built sometime in the late 1970-early 1980's from the look of it. It has 19 bunks some of which are the unusual two person bunks i.e two people sleep next to each other on one double sized mattress. I have only ever seen this set up in North Island huts before so this may be the only South Island example. 

The living space is just adequate...this hut could really do with an additional and separate bunk room, more cooking bench space and a few more windows. At dinner time with a full to capacity hut some people had to go out onto the veranda to eat. 



Cooking bench inside Pinacles Hut, Mt Somers

Map of Mt Somers/Hakatere in the veranda at Pinnacles Hut

You can just see the Canterbury Plains from the veranda...the view was better on day two when there was no cloud to block the view. The hut is in a small basin just under the rock pinnacles the hut are named after...it is sub alpine with typical alpine plants, flax, tussock and stunted trees as you would expect. 

View of Dukes Knob from the Pinnacles Hut helicopter pad

You can get to the pinnacles via a track which runs out to the back of the hut...this is also the way to the toilets which were at least 100 meters away from the hut up a steep and over grown track.

It was a long walk to the long drop.....


Main range of Mt Somers...these are the named pinnacles...

Low cloud around the top of Mt Somers, from Pinnacles Hut

The hut has an excellent wood burner in it which kept the hut nice and warm during a sometimes rainy night. DOC also supply you with coal...there are a couple of coal bunkers up near the helicopter pad out to the side of the hut...I only found them when I went to take some photos. Coal is so much more efficient than wood as a heat source but you have to get a good pile of hot burning wood before you start shoveling it on. 


Pinnacles Hut has a good supply of coal for the fire....

We spent a lively night in the hut...we were over capacity at 21 people as there is some sort of problem with the hut booking system they use here. Luckily for the late comers the hut warden had a couple of spare mattresses in her hut so nobody had to sleep on the bare floor. There were a couple of family groups including one 10 person group of Swedes, a family of five and a variety of other odds and sods like me. 

The hut warden was the same women Karen and I struck at Woolshed Hut a month prior as they alternate which hut they are staying in. It must be a lot rougher being the warden at this hut as it is a metal Quonset style hut with no heating...it must be bloody cold in the winter. 


Side of Pinnacles Hut, Mt Somers at dawn on day two.....

Beautiful light play on Mt Somers from Pinnacles Hut

Pinnacles Hut, Mt Somers on day two of the tramp

I was up early the next morning as we had the mother of all snorers (not me surprisingly...) in the hut and most of us got very little sleep. The early morning rise of the sun was magnificent and lite up the whole valley with a lovely golden light. I made a coffee and went and sat out on the veranda and looked at the forest coming out of the darkness of night. 


Entrance to Pinnacles Hut. Mt Somers

Pony Knob from the Pinnacles Hut Veranda, Mt Somers

Jackets hanging outside Pinnacles Hut, Mt Somers

We had a couple of hunters staying in the hut overnight...it was a Czech guy and his partner who had been hunting up on the surrounding mountains for a couple of days. They were nice and I had a talk to them about hunting, rifles and the local area. They were carrying a Tikka C3 7mm rifle...an excellent choice for deer and any feral pigs they might have encountered. 

As usual some of the people in the hut freaked out at the sight of a firearm and even though it was unloaded and had no bolt someone asked the owner to give it to the hut warden overnight. I am comfortable around firearms and have no problem with them being in the hut but some people stress out so giving them to the warden for safe keeping is probably a good call.

Me...?  I'm used to being around guns from my time in the Army...


Sikka T3 (7mm)  rifle leaning in the Pinnacles Hut veranda

Pinnacles Hut used to be a magnet for rock climbers as the pinnacles on this side of Mt Somers offer some stellar climbing opportunities. I saw a group of climbers coming up the track on the Sunday...they had full climbing gear strapped to their packs. It is more widely used by people completing the Mt Somers Circuit now...

Early morning light on the pinnacles of Mt Somers

Early morning light on the pinnacles of Mt Somers
Early morning light on the pinnacles of Mt Somers

Early morning light on the pinnacles of Mt Somers

Pinnacles Hut lies equidistant between Sharplin Falls car-park and Woolshed Hut...it is roughly 3-3.5 hours to both from this point. The track to Woolshed Creek goes up hill to a saddle about a kilometer to the left hand side of the hut through an alpine herb field.

I will be coming back to walk that section at some future point....


Mt Somers Track continues to Woolshed Creek behind Pinnacles Hut

Side view of Pinacles Hut, Mt Somers

I had a hearty breakfast of Omeal Hashbrown Potatoes and salami sticks which is my new go to breakfast when I go out tramping. These self heating meals are awesome and you can see a review of the meals I have tried so far on the blog.


The Omeal range has Hashbrowns as an option...


Then I packed up my gear and got walking....I was the first out of the hut that morning as I like walking in that early morning period before it gets too hot...

Pinnacles Hut to Sharplin Falls car-park


I set of for the car-park just past 8 am...I had already been up for nearly two hours by this stage so that was a super leisurely start for me....The hut warden was already gone for the day by the time I passed her quarters...I saw her later in the day poisoning wasp nests up near the top of Dukes Knob.


Hut Wardens quarters at Pinnacle Hut, Mt Somers

 The wardens hut was interesting...it was basically a mini Quonset hut made of corrugated iron. I know there are similar huts both at Salmon Creek in Mt Thomas Forest and up around Kaikoura. They obviously didn't work that well or you would see more of them around the country. The Hut warden spent most of the night in the main hut as she said the wardens hut was too cold.....


Start of the Mt Somers Track next to hut, Mt Somers

I set a cracking pace for the first hour or so..I like to get a bit of distance under my feet before i have my first break of the day. That way when you start to get tired later in the day you have kicked the teeth of the days tramp right in. It is so much cooler walking before the sun gets high and the second day was another hot day with temperatures in the high 20's.


Mt winterslow from near Pinnacles Hut, Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

On Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers heading for the road end

I stopped on the edge of the basin Pinnacles Hut sits in and took a good long last look and some photos. I'm 52 this year and I have a long list of tramps I would like to do...who knows if i will ever get back up here. I am storing these memories for the day (hopefully far into the future) when I am no longer able to tramp.


Last view of the basin Pinnacles Hut sits in Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers


Last view of the basin Pinnacles Hut sits in Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

You have a good view out to the Canterbury Plains from the lip of the basin...I could see the area around Staveley and in fact the Port hills were visible far in the distance. As you can see the two days couldn't have been any more different...it was a blue sky day on Sunday with nary a cloud to be seen...


Port hills just visible in the distance...from the Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

Back in the forest on the Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

On the by-pass track...Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

Rough by pass track conditions, Mt Somers Track

This side stream was so more picturesque on a clear sunny day....it was muddy, dark and gloomy in the rain but really sparkled with a clear river and sun...it looked beautiful on the Sunday.


Beautiful cascade along the Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

Rough exit from a side stream, Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

I passed the limestone bluffs again as i made my way down to Bowyers Stream..they still had a significant amount of water falling off them the droplets had a real sparkle with the sun back lighting them...



Descending past the limestone bluffs on the Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

A fine spray of mist from the waterfall on the limestone bluffs, Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

The sun makes the waterfall sparkle....

Natures shower at limestone bluffs, Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

One of the limestone caves along the Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

From the limestone bluffs it is about another 15 minutes of easier walking to get down to the side of Bowyers Stream. I thought about stopping here for a break but the swing bridge is only another 10 minutes walk so I just decided to wait until I arrived there.


On the Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers opposite Pony Knob

A side stream crossing the Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers....

...in an S bend opposite Pt. 890 on the Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers...

From Bowyers Stream there is a short climb up and over an intervening ridge of about 10 minutes including climbing down a fixed chain on a steep slippery place. Then you find yourself at the swing bridge over Bowyers Stream.


Following Bowyers Stream on the Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

A gorge area along Bowyers Stream, Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

I stopped for a 20 minute break at the spot I used on Day One when I was walking into the hut...it was a much nicer proposition on a warm sunny day. I sat down by the river and watched the river and waterfall while I munched my muesli bar and drank my water. 

The valley around Bowyers Stream is really beautiful and would make a good camp but there just are not any camp sites down here. It is too narrow and the river goes right up to the sides so there is no usable flat land. You could probably find some good spots if using a hammock as there are piles of trees you could hook up to. 


Back at the Bowyers Stream swing-bridge, Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

Bowyers Stream swing bridge, Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

Walking over the Bowyers Stream swing-bridge....

After my break it was back into the waking, first crossing the swing bridge and then sidling along the side of the river for about 20 minutes. It was good going as the track and slippery rocks had dried out a lot so your feet were not constantly slipping like they did on the first day. 

On the Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

Ridge before Pony Stream, Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

Bowyers Stream near the confluence with Pony stream, Mt Somers 

I would love to go exploring up Pony Stream....the water wasn't too deep on day two and I could see how it might be fun to see what is up there. You would have to be careful about storms coming in as it could be easy to trap yourself up some narrow side valley after the stream flooded.

 Something to ponder......


Pony Stream on the Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

Fixed chain on the Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

Climbing up Dukes Knob from Bowyers Stream, Mt Somers Track

I got to the hill climb at Dukes Knob eventually and started the long slow slog up and over the last hill barrier. Climbing up from this side was a lot easier as it was more of a gradual sidle and not a near sheer climb. I was walking along behind the Czech hunting couple for most of the way to the top but they shot away from me when I stopped on the crest for a break. 


Sidling along the forest on Dukes Knob, Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

Nearly at the top of Dukes Knob, Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

Heading down to the Sharplin Falls car-park, Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

Mt Somers from Dukes Knob, Mt Somers

Heading down to Sharplin Falls from Dukes Knob, Mt Somers

A sweaty Jon on Dukes Knob.......

I spotted some permolat track marker on the trees as I made my way down...this was old Venetian blind material cut up into squares about 2 inches square. The NZFS and Walkways Commission used this as marker material in the late 1960-70's but it did not show up well in most forest so they changed to the familiar orange triangles. 


Old permalot track marker on the Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

Then it was a much easier forward path as I descended down to the fixed bridge over Bowyers Stream. It was a lot easier going down the steep track down Dukes Knob although the front of the thighs were starting to ping a bit by the time I got down to flat track. 


Start of the steep section down to Sharplin Falls car-park...Mt Somers Track

Fuschia grove on the southern flank of Dukes Knob, Mt Somers Track

Wood pigeon in a Tawa Tree on the Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

Large Fuschia tree next to the Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers
The last couple of hundred metes down to the track end was either switchback track sections or stairs. There are a 6-7 sets of stairs to climb on this part of the Mt Somers track not my favorite kind of track but they do help you to gain or lost altitude quickly. 

Past the stairs it was just a couple of hundred meters of flat track alongside the stream and then the fixed bridge at the start/end of the track hove into view. 


On the switch backs on the lower slopes of Dukes Knob, Mt Somers Track


Mt Somers Track: some of the many stairs you have to descend...

..more damn stairs on the Mt Somers Track

Walking along the side of Bowyers Stream again...

There are some nice looking swimming pools around the Bowyers Stream fixed bridge...the bottom is flat gravel with waist deep water flowing over it. On a stinking hot summers day it would awesomely appealing as a place to cool down and wash off at the end of a tramp. The end of the trip is just two minutes walk past the bridge....


Bowyers Stream fixed bridge, Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

Bowyers Stream fixed bridge, Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

Downstream from the Bowyers Stream fixed bridge, Mt Somers Track

Upstream from the Bowyers Stream fixed bridge, Mt Somers Track

I finally arrived back at the Sharplin Falls car park after just over three hours so the journey out is faster than the journey to the hut. I was well pleased to see the Silver Surfer safe and sound in the car-park...she was not stolen or broken into which was good. 



The end of the Bowyers Stream fixed bridge, Mt Somers Track, Mt Somers

Silver Surfer still safe and sound in the Sharplin Falls car-park

It was a sometimes bothersome but good tramping experience walking into Pinnacles Hut and I am dead keen to have a go at walking the whole track sometime. The only bits I have yet to walk are from Pinnacles Hut to Woolshed Creek Hut (2-3 hours) and the South Face Track (5 hours) across the front of Mt Somers. 

Mt Somers and the wider Hakatere area are fabulous places to tramp...I am just sorry I haven't got around to tramping down here before now. I still have many ideas for good tramping trips down here in the Mid-South so make sure you tune in again soon to see what other adventures I have got up to.  

Cheers.....


Access: From Rakaia follow Thompson's Track to Forks Road then follow the Ashburton-Staveley Road to Staveley. From Staveley follow Flynn's Road to the Sharplin Falls car-park and the start of the track.
Track Times: Mt Somers Track to Pinnacles Hut is 9 km's or 3-3.5 hours walking time. 
Hut Details: Woolshed Creek Hut; Serviced, 24 bunks, water tanks, toilets, wood burner..you can also camp near the hut. Pinnacles Hut: Serviced, 16 bunks, water tanks, toilets, wood burner...no camping near the hut. Both huts are on the DOC hut booking system
Miscellaneous: The Mt Somers Track is step and rocky in places but suitable for even novice trampers. Access to water is available from the swing-bridge to the start of the climb to the hut, apart from that there are no reliable water sources along the track. . Multiple side streams must be crossed which may be impassible in heavy rain. The main crossing of Bowyers Stream is bridged.