Nelson Lakes NP: Honeydew Walk: 12 November 2022

 On the Honeydew Walk at Lake Rotoiti

The other short walk I did while on my recent tramping trip to Nelson Lakes NP was the Honeydew Walk.  It is a great little walk and it branches off the main Lakehead Track running along the lake side. 

Lake Rotoiti from the start of the track at Kerr Bay

The first part of the track is along the side of Lake Rotoiti before you climb up onto a an old glacial terrace and do a loop through the beech forest. It was a little windy in the forest but otherwise it was a perfect day to be out and walking. 

DOC signs at start of Lakehead Track

At the start of the track at Kerr Bay

Lake Angelus can be accessed along the Lakehead Track

I had contemplated walking the longer St Arnaud Range Track but as that took another five hours and involved climbing steeply up a series of switchbacks for many kilometers I decided to go with the slightly easier option. 

On the Honeydew Track:

The Honeydew Walk is a short side track off the main Lakehead Track...it is about one kilometer long and takes 25 to 30 minutes to make your way around. 

DOC map of the track network from Kerr Bay

Setting out from Kerr Bay to walk the Honeydew Track

The track skirts Lake Rotoiti to start...

On the Lakehead Track at Lake Rotoiti

The eastern terminus of the Honeydew Track starts about a kilometer from Kerr Bay and it climbs up onto old glacial terraces before sidling around and back down to the main track about 300 meters from the carpark. 

Map: Honeydew Walk, Nelson Lakes NP

Just to clarify things a bit...on the map above I is the Honeydew Walk, II is the St Arnaud Range Track and III is the Lakehead Track. The eastern end of the Honeydew Track comes off the Lakehead Track while the western end attaches to the end of the St Arnaud Range Track. 

Western Terminus of the Honeydew Walk

You can walk the track in either direction it is really up to you to choose. Clock wise from the eastern end is probably best...

Eastern terminus of the Honeydew Walk

Climbing onto the Honeydew Walk, Nelson Lakes NP

Honeydew Walk: the life cycle of a beech forest....

     

The Honeydew Walk travels through a magnificent area of beech forest and is a part of the Lake Rotoiti Recovery Project. The Project aims to restore a vast swathe of forest in Nelson Lakes NP back to a pre human condition. To this end they have an extensive trapping program for introduced pests and they also undertake planting to restore the forest cover. 

Information about the Inland Island project

Initially the project only covered about 100 hectares but it has since grown to cover over 5000 hectares of forest, tussock grasslands and mountain tops. It has created a virtual 'Inland Island' where birds, insects and small animals are able to thrive. 

Walking along the first terrace on the Honeydew Walk

On the Honeydew Track at Lake Rotoiti

The Honeydew Walk is an all weather track with just the one bridged stream crossing. The track is dirt and covered with leaves but it is well drained and elevated so it is usually quite dry. Although it is not wheelchair friendly it is not far off...it is wide, well maintained and easy to walk along. 

Only bridge along the all weather Honeydew Walk

Not much water in the stream...Honeydew Walk

After the initial climb up onto an old glacial terrace you find yourself sidling along a mostly flat track with a variety of beech species and podocarp trees. You can see quite a way out into the open forest and it is a very pleasant place to go for a stroll. 

There are several information panels along the Honeydew Walk

Honeydew Walk: the fauna of Nelson Lakes NP

You turn along the track and head west towards the St Arnaud Range Track. The track weaves in and amongst the trees and it was awesome walking along in the dappled sunlight coming in through the forest canopy. 

Good quality track along the Honeydew Walk, Nelson Lakes NP

Goblin Forest along the Honeydew Walk

Fallen tree debris cleared from the Honeydew Walk

After about 15 minutes walking you come to an area of jumbled glacial erratic's...huge boulders and rock slabs deposited here when some ancient glacier came to a halt and dumped the heaviest debris. The whole of Nelson Lakes NP was formed by and shaped as a result of glaciers evidence of which can still be spotted.

Honeydew Walk: tree growing on a erratic boulder...

 As little as 8 000 years ago there was a huge glacier coming down the Travers Valley carving out Lake Rotoiti on its way west. The other major influence is erosion by both wind, rain action and by the gradual erosive force of the big rivers you find in the park.

The apex of the Honeydew Walk, Nelson Lakes NP

Old glacial debris on the honeydew Track

The apex of the Honeydew Walk is near the old glacial spoil...from here it starts to drop down to a junction with the St Arnaud Range Track before descending further to the main Lakehead Track.

Information about Wasp infestation in Nelson Lakes NP

 The walk through here is elevated over the forest so you can see way off into the forest towards old swamps and silted up kettle lakes. 

Honeydew Track heading for the St Arnaud Range Track

View off the Honeydew Track into the forest

You eventually arrive at the St Arnaud Range Track/ Loop Track coming down off the surrounding peaks. I last travelled up the St Arnaud Range Track way back in 2016 when I did a day walk up to Parachute Rocks nearly 1100 meters above you. 

Honeydew Walk and St Arnaud Range Track junction

The rest of the walk is on the St Arnaud Range Track...

I headed down the St Arnaud Range Track on my way back to the main trail on the route out to Kerr Bay. It was quiet in the forest...I saw about a dozen people the whole time I was walking around the Honeydew Walk even though it is close to the carpark. 

Honeydew/St Arnaud Range Track heading to St Arnaud

I saw and heard a great many birds in this forest including Silver Eye, Fantail, Kaka, Bellbird and Tui. A Kaka flew close by me at one point and sat in a nearby tree noisily protesting at my presence. Kaka numbers are growing right around the country and Nelson Lakes now has a strong population of these forest Parrots. 

DOC 2000 pest trap on the Honeydew Walk

I didn't see any Weka or Pukeko on this trip which is unusual as I often see a few around the Kerr Bay Campsite and on the flats around Lakehead Hut. There may not be any in the area at the moment. 

Information panel about the vision of a restored forest

The end of the Honeydew Walk is a gentle descent down to the main track running along the side of the lake....an easy end to an easy track.

Descending down the Honeydew/St Arnaud Range Track

Near the St Arnaud Range Track and Lakehead Track junction

From the end of the St Arnaud Range Track you turn right and head along the Lakehead Track back to the car park at Kerr Bay. From the track junction you are only 300 meters away from the end of your tramp...

...Western terminus of the Honeydew Track...Lakehead Track

Back onto the main Lakehead Track, Lake Rotoiti

Kerr Bay is just 300 meters away...Lakehead Track

Back on the flat ground next to Lake Rotoiti

There are several excellent views along and up Lake Rotoiti to the Travers Valley which sits at the head of the lake. This is one of my favorite tramping destinations in New Zealand with a number of excellent huts heading up to Travers Pass. This is the path of both the Te Araroa Trail and the Travers -Sabine Circuit. 

View along Lake Rotoiti to the Travers Valley

Mt Robert (1421) from the Lakehead Track

Nearly at the Kerr Bay carpark at Lake Rotoiti

Back at the Kerr Bay entrance to the track

End of the walk at the Kerr Bay Jetty

The Honeydew Walk is a real gem....it travels through some really nice beech forest and would make an ideal intermediate track if you only had an hour or so in St Arnaud. I can thoroughly recommend the walk to you as I really enjoyed the experience. 

Access: Honeydew Walk starts and finishes off the Lakehead Track near St Arnaud. Follow Kerr Bay Road or Lake Road off SH63 (Main Road)  and down to the jetty at Kerr Bay. Numerous tracks start from this location and branch off the main Lakehead Hut Track. There is a track sign about 700 meters from the carpark at the start of Honeydew Track/St Arnaud Range Tracks. 

Track Times: It takes 30-40 minutes (1.5 kilometers) to cover the full circuit of the Honeydew Walk. 

Miscellaneous: High quality track, with multiple interpretation boards along the route. All weather track but potentially muddy after rain.

YouTube: Honeydew Walk

Nelson Lakes NP: Black Hill Circuit

 A base camp weekend in Nelson Lakes NP

On my tramping program for 2022/2023 I had a trip to the Tablelands inland from Motueka planned for Canterbury Anniversary weekend. Unfortunately I have injured my foot and it is painful to walk on for any great distance. 

Brewing up at the Mt Robert Day Shelter, Nelson Lakes NP

I was really needing a to get out of Christchurch for a couple of days so rather than cancel the trip all together I went up to Nelson Lakes NP for three days for a base camp trip. I stayed at a motel there and went for a series of shorter day walks. 

Lake Rotoiti and Mt Robert, Nelson Lakes NP

One of the tracks I covered was the Black Hill Track-Moraine Walk Circuit. 

The Black Hill Circuit:

Black Hill is a small knob just on the western edge of St Arnaud and next to SH 65 leading into the settlement. It is a glacial remnant from the last ice age 20 000 years ago...the rock underlying the hill was too hard for the Travers Glacier to wear down. It has that classic glacial look with a long gentle slope on the upstream side and an abrupt steep drop off on the ley. 

Black Hill in Nelson Lakes NP

Black Hill is to the west of St Arnaud

Black Hill is about 200 meters higher than the surrounding land and it can be accessed from a number of places around its edge. It is totally covered in bush and forest so there are no views from the top but it is a lovely walk nonetheless.

Start of the Black Hill Track...Nelson Lakes NP

 In all it is about three kilometers and takes around 1.5 hours...45 minutes to the top of the hill and 45 minutes to walk back around to the start. 

In the Manuka forest on black Hill

I have passed by the Black Hill Track at least a dozen times over the years and wondered what lay along it. I had it as a possible walk when I was here earlier in 2022 but did not have time to complete it at that time. I had this track as my No. 1 pick for this trip...

Start of the Black Hill Track, Nelson Lakes NP

 I was walking a circuit of the hill starting from the carpark at the top of Lodge Road up and over Black Hill and returning along the Moraine Walk and Lodge Road. This gave me a mix of uphill, down hill and flat terrain to cover most of which is in thick Kanuka/Manuka or Beech forest. 

Top of Lodge Road at Nelson Lakes NP

The first part of the track is uphill to the crest of Black Hill. This is along the moderately steep Black Hill Track which is in forest for the full length of the way. The forest is a mix of Beech and Kanuka/Manuka and most of the trees appear to be re generating. I imagine any mature trees were cut down when St Arnaud was settled in the 1860's.

Kanuka/Manuka forest at the start of Black Hill Track

This is a lovely shaded track and would be ideal if you were here in the middle of the summer. I had a cooling breeze coming from Lake Rotoiti...you are elevated above the western end of the lake so you can sometimes get quite strong winds whipping over the hill. 

Black Hill Track is shady and cool...

I passed a couple of people along the way but for the most part I had the track to myself.

Mix of Podocarps and Manuka on Black Hill Track

I mostly had Black Hill Track to myself

About mid way to the crest of Black Hill the forest changes to Beech and there are a couple of larger trees along the track. They are a mix of Black Beech and Mountain Beech. I also saw some Mountain Totara trees scattered amongst the forest. 

Edge of the Beech forest on Black Hill Track

There are occasional views down to Lake Rotoiti but the forest is thick so they are mostly obscured...the photo below is the clearest view I had of the lake. 

Limited views of Lake Rotoiti from Black Hill Track

Some more mature Beech trees on Black Hill Track

This is the largest tree I saw on the whole of Black Hill...prior to European settlement I would think the whole hill would have been covered with large Beech trees similar to this. 

Largest tree I saw along Black Hill Track

There are some switchbacks on Black Hill Track

Black Hill Track...nearing the crest

Eventually you make it to a clearing on the top of Black Hill...it is not very big really a slightly wider clearing along the track. It runs along the top of the hill for about 50 meters before dropping back down as you head for the Moraine Walk and SH 63 on the western side of the hill. 

The antennae on top of Black Hill Track

There is a trig station in the clearing and some sort of remote repeater antenna probably for DOC and the emergency services. I sat on a rock in the shade for a 10 minute break before setting off once more towards the Moraine Track.

Trig point atop Black Hill, Nelson Lakes NP

Radio relay antenna on Black Hill

There is a long crest to Black Hill

 There are a few clearings along this side of the hill so you can see out and down towards the highway. 

Start of the descent off of Black Hill

The west of Black Hill is covered in bush

Looking north from the Black Hill Track

Wear a hat...sunny forest openings on the Black Hill Track

The track on the western side of Black Hill is quite steep so after the initial section along the crest it is a series of descending switchbacks. You rapidly lose height working back and forth across the side of the hill.

Switchbacks descent off Black Hill, Nelson Lakes NP

First view of SH 65 from Black Hill Track

At one point there is a god view back up the valleys towards the west. You can see the area around Kawatiri and the mountains up around Mt Owen in  Kahurangi National Park. This is the area where the Tablelands sit and was the original location for this trip.  

View west towards Kahurangi NP, Black Hill Track

You get a good overview of St Arnaud from the track and you can see how the settlement is spreading into new areas. I first visited St Arnaud in 1988 on an Army exercise and at that time it had perhaps 40 houses. Now there are a couple of hundred and I notice new building every time I visit. 

St Arnaud in the distance from the Black Hill Track

I can see the appeal...it is close to Blenheim and Nelson and would be a great spot for a holiday home. I would buy a house up here if I had the money to do so. I could see St Arnaud becoming a new Wanaka in 20-30 years time...

Black Hill Track...closer view of St Arnaud

It takes about ten minutes to walk down the western side of Black Hill and the track is eventually going to deposit you onto the Moraine Walk which goes along this side of the hill. It was shady and cool on this side of the hill as it is covered in mature Beech forest. 

Mature beech forest on west side of Black Hill

Almost at the end of Black Hill Track

The Moraine Walk is right next to SH63 and goes right along the west side of Black Hill. If you head back towards St Arnaud it will eventually return you to Lodge Road where there are tracks to St Arnaud Settlement and the start of the Black Hill Track. 

First view of the Moraine Walk, Nelson Lakes NP

Head east along the Moraine Track...Nelson Lakes NP

It is 1.2 kilometers on Black Hill Track to Rotoiti Lodge

You can follow the Moraine Walk west away from St Arnaud and eventually it will take you to near West Bay.  If you continue along it will join up with the Anglers Walk along the side of the Buller River. I will cover this track the next time I am up in Nelson Lakes NP...I ran out of time to complete it on this trip. 

West Bay is at the far end of the Moraine Walk

It is 1.3 km's to West Bay on Moraine Walk

It is 1.3 kilometers from the junction of the Black Hill Track and Moraine Walk. You are walking along a flat track for most of the way and the highway is just off to your left and about 3-5 meters away. 

Moraine Walk...the track is like a bush tunnel

Moraine Walk is generally flat and level

The track is following along an old terminal moraine wall which is the pile of rocks and debris pushed along at the face of a glacier. The Travers Glacier came down the Travers Valley and reached this point. When the ice melted it left a gravel wall behind which is what lies under St Arnaud and Black Hill. 

Looking along SH63 towards St Arnaud

The distant St Arnaud Range dominates the skyline

The Moraine Walk is about 3 meters off SH63

When you pass this big glacial erratic rock you are about 300 meters away from Lodge Road. 

Glacial erratic rock on the Moraine Walk, Nelson Lakes NP

It was shady but very windy on the Moraine Walk

Just past the St Arnaud road signs on SH 63 is Lodge Road. This side road goes up to the Lake Rotoiti Lodge which is a school camp and outdoor education centre here in St Arnaud. The start of the Black Hill Track is at the top end of this road...

St Arnaud signs at edge of settlement

End of the Moraine Walk at Nelson Lakes NP

You head up Lodge Road to get back to the start/end of the Black Hill Circuit and this is also where I had parked my car. It is roughly 600 meters from the start of the road to the top. 

Turn right up Lodge Road for Black Hill, Nelson Lakes NP

The gradient on Lodge Road is very gentle

About 200 meters up Lodge Road is a side track on the left hand side of the road. This is the way back to St Arnaud Settlement. This track will take you to Ward Street which comes out right next to the DOC Visitors Center. It is much safer to walk this way than along SH 63 as the highway is busy and there is no sidewalk or verge to walk along. 

Side track to Ward Street...Visitors Centre

If you are heading to Black Hill or West Bay just head uphill towards Rotoiti Lodge itself...it is about 500 meters further up the road. 

Lodge road leads to the Lake Rotoiti Lodge

View back down Lodge road to the Ward Street Track

There is a decent view of Black Hill from Lodge Road and you eventually see the parking space and turning circle at the end of Lodge Road. 

Black Hill (746), St Arnaud

Silver Surfer awaits at the end of Lodge Road

Rotoiti Lodge is an outdoor education centre that is used by school groups, tour groups and youth groups. It has the standard bunkroom's and living/cooking facilities these centers usually have and is similar to Outward Bound at Anakiwa, the BOEC at Boyle River and Outdoor Pursuits Centre in Arthurs Pass. 

Nelson Lakes NP would be great for school groups...there is so much to do here!

Rotoiti Lodge at St Arnaud...the local outdoor education facility

You walk past Rotoiti Lodge as you are heading for the carpark and turning circle at the end of Lodge Road. Here you will find a track to the top of Black Hill which is a knob just off to the right of you. There is also a marked entrance to the West Bay Track which will take you back down to Lake Rotoiti. 

Parking for 3-4 cars at the end of Lodge Road

From Lodge Road you can descend down the West Bay track towards the lake on a wide and well maintained pathway. It will eventually deposit you at the junction with the Brunner Peninsula Walk.

 I have walked this track several times as it is the access way from Mt Robert Carpark to St Arnaud. If you ever walk the Lakeside Track, Travers-Sabine Circuit, Lake Rotoiti Circuit, Robert Ridge or Speargrass Tracks you will get to know it well...

West Bay Track goes down to Lake Rotoiti

I really enjoyed this walk...there are no views to speak of but it is a nice shady track and would be an excellent option on a hot summer's day. I really liked the cooling breeze blowing up and over the hill from the lake. 

Looking along Moraine Walk to St Arnaud Range

Black Hill Circuit is another short track option in the St Arnaud/Lake Rotoiti area if you are staying here or travelling through and have an extra couple of hours it is well worth a visit. 

Access: The Black Hill Circuit starts from top of Lodge Road. There is a turning circle with a couple of parking spaces and the track is signposted from here. The track can be walked in either direction...I walked Lodge Road-Black Hill-moraine Walk-Lodge Road. Start points are from Lodge Road carpark, West Bay 

Track Times: It is 4.7 kilometers (1.5-2 hours) to complete the circuit. 

Miscellaneous: Good quality track with the roughest section from crest of Black Hill to Moraine Walk. The track to the top of Black Hill is moderately steep. No toilets or water points along this track.   Do not walk this track in high wind as it is prone to both wind fall and wind throw. Watch for Wasps in the summer months. 

You Tube Link: Black Hill Circuit