Using a sold fuel stove...

Alternate outdoor cooking tools...solid fuel cubes! 

Over the Christmas holidays I tried an experiment cooking some tramping food over solid fuel tablets. Solid fuel tablets are wax coated cubes of petrochemicals called Hexamine which will burn for 3-5 minutes when lit. They have a long history and have been a mainstay of military ration cooking since the late 1890's. 

My YouTube vlog about using solid fuel tablets

The kit I was using for this experiment was a Coghlan's Emergency Stove and some square Esbit fuel tablets. I used the Esbit tablets as I had an open packet which needed to be used but I did utilise the metal stove that comes with the Coghlans kit. Esbit is a German company and perhaps the best known solid fuel producer in the world. 

Coghlan's Emergency Stove

The Emergency Stove is very similar to the hexamine cookers I used when I was in the New Zealand Army back in the 1980-1990's. I bought this item from Hunting and Fishing here in Christchurch and it was less than $20 NZ Dollars for the stove and an accompanying bag of 24 fuel tablets. 

...$20 for a aluminium stove and fuel tablets...

The stove can be used from either side depending on the size of your cooking pot. With the spikes up it can accomodate a large cooking pot...spikes down is for smaller vessels. You just rest your cooking pot across the top and the fuel tabs heat it from below. 

You don't really need the stove...in the military we often just found two relatively flat stones/sticks and set the burning tablets in between them. Then you rest your pot on top...basic but it works! 

Coghlan's Emergency Stove and fuel tablets

I was using a US pattern Cups Canteen I used in the Army to cook in...this is one of the few items I still have from those days. It is probably 40+ years old now and the fact it still works is testament to the soundness of the original design. 

US pattern Cups Canteen...1 liter size

The Emergency Stove can fold down into a flat square with space inside to hold the fuel tablets which come with the kit. I would be inclined to carry this in the original box it comes in with a Ziploc plastic bag on the outside to keep it dry. The cubes will light when wet BUT it will be much more difficult. 

Coghlan's Stove folded up for travel

Im super hungry...so let's have a look at the stove in action!!!

Cooking using solid fuel:

When I was in the Army our main ration pack meals were tinned...either Corned Beef, Meat and Vegetable Stew or Spaghetti/Beans. We had cans of Spaghetti + Sausages and tins of Beans + Meatballs for breakfast. I thought I would cook one of these as I loved the smell of cooking food and hexamine cubes on a cold morning. It is one of my strongest memories from back in those days...

My meal...can of Spaghetti and Sausages

NZ Army Ration pack circa 1989

You have to clear away any leaf and forest clutter before lighting up your fuel cube. I cleared a patch of ground, securely grounded my stove and lit a fuel tablet. Light the tablets with match or lighter and I generally find leaning a burning match across the top corner works well. 

Fold out the stove and place on cleared ground

Cooker positioned and ready to go

Each cube will burn for approximately 5-7 minutes and this is generally sufficient to heat precooked foods. It takes about 5 minutes to boil a cups canteen of water. Obviously using more tablets will assist but these cubes are not the most efficient way to boil/cook. 

Cooked Spaghetti and still some fuel left

They are prone to blowing out in the wind and very heavy rain will also put them out. You need to try to find a protected spot or form some kind of barrier around the cooker for best results. If the cube burns out before you are finished just chuck another cube on the stove and continue. 

Time to tuck into them vittles....!!!

Using solid fuel has a number of pros and cons. 

While they are cheap, basically foolproof and relatively light they are also inefficient and give off highly noxious fumes. Not ideal inside a hut or tent. They will also put soot on the outside of your cooking pots which may be a problem. 

...Hexamine residue on my cups canteen...

One thing to consider is that there may eventually be a ban on Propane/Butane canisters which will make these a more environmentally friendly option. Solid fuel and Trangia style alcohol burners may once again become the main cooking method for outdoor enthusiasts. Just like they were back in the 1930-40's. 

...Gas canisters may one day be banned...

If you have never tried solid fuel before you should buy a stove and pack of tablets and give them a go. 

You Tube: Using a solid Fuel stove

Te Araroa Trail Section: Hakatere Conservation Area, Walking to Manuka Hut

 Further adventures in the Hakatere Conservation Area

My second proper tramp of the year was along a short section of the Te Araroa Trail in the Hakatere Conservation Area. From the Hakatere-Heron Road I walked along the TA to Manuka Hut roughly a distance of about 6 kilometers one way.

Hakatere-Heron Road, Hakatere Conservation Area

Now that I have finished the Great Walks I will be looking to walk more TA sections in the coming years. I have been slowly chipping away sections of the Trail but I would like to put more of a focus on covering some of the tracks. 

Start of Castleridge Station Access Road

The Hakatere Conservation Area is one of the newer DOC parks which came about as the result of the tenure process over the last decade or so. A large amount of land was taken back into Crown hands as a result of the process and designated for recreation use. Vast areas of the central South Island from Tasman District right down to Invercargill now officially belongs to the country. 

There is very limited parking off the Hakatere-Heron Road

The Te Araroa Trail runs right across the Hakatere Basin basically from the Rakaia River to the Rangitata. Along the way it also crosses private farmland but the TA Trust has negotiated a walking corridor across several stations to allow the trail to proceed. 

Te Aroroa Trail sign on Hakatere-Heron Road

This section starts by crossing land belonging to Castleridge Station but then moves onto DOC land after covering about 2 kilometers. So lets set out along this section of the trail as we head for the classic musterer's hut on the Manuka Creek.

To Lake Emily and Manuka Hut...

From the turn off on the Hakatere-Heron Road it is about 6.5 kilometers to reach Manuka Hut along old 4 W/D tracks and tramping tracks. To start with you are walking down the access road to Castleridge Station but then move onto an old farm track as you head towards Lake Emily. 

Castleridge Station Access Road, Hakatere Basin

Map: Castleridge Station to Manuka Hut

Please stay on the marked trail to maintain access

You will reach a farm gate after about a kilometer multi use track so look out for other walkers, MTB riders, horse riders and four wheel drives. I saw all of these groups as I made my way to the hut. 

Start of Stour River Track, Hakatere Conservation Area

Past the farm gate the track starts to climb up over some low rolling hills which are characteristic of this area of the country. There are views towards the Castleridge Homestead and a large marsh contained within a nearby basin. 

Marshland near Castleridge Station

There is very little track marking across the farmland and I thought I might be in the wrong place until I spotted some classic DOC markers on snow poles. These mark the route across the station and it is important you stay on the track as that is the only part of the farm the TA Trust have negotiated to use. 

Snowpoles marked the official Te Araroa access

The track is rough, ready and dusty and basically follows the bottom of several ridges as it makes its way deeper into the Hakatere basin. I would imagine it is a mud pit in the winter as the soil through here is that glacial flour you get on high alpine plains. 

Distant Mt Somers Range covered with cloud

Looking back towards Castleridge Homestead

Golden Spaniards next to Stour Valley Track

I noted this warning sign along the track warning visitors to stay off the farmland. You must stay on the track as you do not have a right to roam freely in New Zealand. If we want to maintain access to tracks like this we have to abide by the rules the landowners have imposed. 

Do not cross farmland...stay on the marked track!!!

Once over the first hills the Hakatere Basin is laid out before you...you can see far up the Stour River Valley and the course of the track is plain to see. You are making your way towards Lake Emily which is close to the border between DOC land and the station. 

Western end of Clent Range, Hakatere Conservation Area

Distant Emily Hill...Manuka Hut is beyond this range

First view of Lake Emily, Hakatere Conservation Area

Hakatere Conservation Area is a desolate place

After about two kilometers you will arrive at a fence and cattle stop which marks the divide between Crown land and Castleridge Station. There is a DOC sign here and a map showing the boundary of the Conservation Area. It basically stretches from here right through to Mt Somers and north towards the Rakaia River. 

Boundary of Castleridge Station and Hakatere Conservation Area

DOC sign and map near Lake Emily

From the cattle stop it is 4.5 kilometers to Manuka Hut and there are separate MTB/4 W/D tracks and walking tracks. To start with both follow the 4 W/D track around to Lake Emily. 

It is 4.5 kilometers to Manuka Hut from this sign

Manuka Hut Track starts at end of Emily Hill

Map of the Hakatere Conservation Area

I was passed by several 4 W/D vehicles as I walked this section...they were probably going up to have a look at Manuka Hut or they might have been exploring the Stour River. 

Four wheel drives passes me...Stour Valley Track

Lake Emily is a moderately sized alpine kettle lake which occupies a depression in between several hills. It was probably a kilometer long by 400 meters wide and is surrounded by areas of swamp right around its fringe. There were a lot of water fowl on the surface and I could see various Ducks, Geese, Swans and Herons.

Good view of Lake Emily...note waterfowl

...wetlands encicle Lake Emily, Hakatere Conservation Area...

Looking back along my route in Hakatere Conservation Area

The track is slowly heading up the Stour River Valley and you can follow the track right around to the Ashburton Lakes Road if you want to. This is a popular MTB ride and I saw a number of riders following this route. 

Climbing up to start of Manuka Valley Track

I was heading for the TA track which heads around the right side of Emily Hill before dropping down into the Stour River West Branch. 

Te Araroa branches off the Stour Valley Track

From the junction you head off along a typical section of tramping track that you will find right through the South Island High Country. There is little vegetation around except for low tussock grass, gorse, Matagouri and a few Spaniard plants. 

Lake Emily, Hakatere Conservation Area

...heading for eastern end of Emily Hill....

Clent Ranges lies to south of Manuka Hut Track

The track sees you climbing to a low saddle on the eastern end of Emily Hill onto a ridgeline with views down to the Stour River West Branch. As you climb higher you have some excellent views down the Stour River to the Clent Hills and Manuka Range. 

In between is a huge golden valley of tussock quintessential aspects of these alpine basins in the South Island. 

Looking back across the Hakatere Conservation Area

Long view down the Stour River Valley to Pt.978

Golden tussock covers the Hakatere Conservation Area

I really like to visit this area...I can see why so many Kiwi artists have used the high country in their paintings. It really is beautiful in a very distinctive way. 

View back towards Lake Emily, Castleridge Station

Clent Range, Hakatere Conservation Area

Just before you reach the crest of the saddle you pass through a field of Golden Spaniard plants and waist deep tussock before emerging at the top of the ridge. From here you have a panoramic view of the upper reaches of the Stour West Branch right up to near Manuka Hut. 

Golden Spaniards dot the side of Emily Hill

Waist deep tussock on Emily Hill, Hakatere Conservation Area

Alpine daisies on the track to Manuka Hut

View down to upper Stour River West Branch

 Manuka Hut is not in plain view as it is behind a ridge but it would be visible if it was out on the valley bottom. It is off to the right of the gravel river bed you can see in the photo below. 

Manuka Hut sits near the northern end of the gravel

After making your way down the eastern face of the escarpment you walk for about 1.5 kilometers up the valley to a river coming down off the Manuka Range. Manuka Hut is tucked in behind a low ridge at the end of the Manuka Range. 

Manuka Hut is tucked behind the Manuka Range

Manuka Hut is an old musterer's hut that became part of the DOC estate after tenure review. It is typical of many of the DOC huts in the central South Island...old station accommodation. 

Manuka Hut with Manuka Range to the rear

It was nice and sunny at Manuka Hut

Front entrance to Manuka Hut

 It is corrugated iron lined with ply and has 6 bunks, a dinning table, a small side bench and a open fireplace There is basically no firewood in the immediate area as there are no trees here. It is well positioned to catch the sun and was very warm inside the day I was there.  You would need a good warm sleeping bag if straying here outside summer. 

...Manuka Hut has six bunks...

Open fireplace in Manuka Hut (but no firewood)

I was at the hut only long enough to take some photos before hot footing it back down the valley. It was getting on into the afternoon and I had a three hour walk to get back to my car ahead of me. 

...Goodbye to Manuka Hut...

It took me about 45 minutes to walk back down the valley and up to the top of the escarpment once again. The valley walking was easy enough but it is quite steep walking back up that escarpment. You can follow the 4 W/D track back down to the junction with the Stour River Track. This is flatter but also adds a couple of kilometers to your journey. 

Manuka Range to the east of Emily Hill

As you make your way back off the escarpment you have a grandstand view of the Stour River Valley and Clent Range. The 4 W/D track goes up the valley and around the eastern end of the Clent Hills. It is possible to ride a MTB around the Clent Hills on the tracks and along the Hakatere-Heron Road...it would be a 30+ kilometer circuit.

Mt Barossa is covered by cloud, Hakatere Conservation Area

Closer view of the Alpine Daisies, Hakatere Conservation Area

I headed back along the route I had followed that morning and it was easier walking as it is all downhill to the Stour Valley Track. Along the way I stopped to have a closer lok at one of the Golden Spaniards...they are bristling with spikes and thorns. It is a defense against browsing by animals though I can hardly imagine what ancient animal wanted to eat these. 

Close view of a Golden Spaniard plant

You head back along the TA Trail passing Lake Emily as you go. The wind had picked up some so there were a few waves out on the lakes surface. 

View south west from Emily Hill

Te Araroa Trail in the Hakatere Conservation Area

Wind blows wave crests across Lake Emily

The TA route takes you back along the track to the junction with the Stour Valley Track where you turn right and continue walking back towards Castleridge Station land. 

Stour Valley Track heading back to Castleridge Station

Lots of pest control traps along the Stour Valley Track

Bleak desolation of tussock land near Lake Emily

There isa long expansive view out over the Hakatere Conservation Area. You can see out to the north west to the gap between the mountains through to the Rakaia River. In the far distance you can see some of the higher peaks of the Southern Alps. 

View west to Lake Heron, Hakatere Conservation Area

Mt Somers Range emerges from low cloud

Manuka Range from the Stour Valley Track

The Rakaia River is 20 kilometers in that direction

I stopped for some lunch in the shade of the DOC signs at the edge of Castleridge Station land. I had a sandwich I brought on the way and a drink. I also took the opportunity to tape up a couple of my toes that had started to rub. It was quite a warm day so I was thankful for the limited shade the sign provided. 

My Vaude 40l day pack...Hakatere Conservation Area

...bring plenty of water on this track...

...running repairs to the feet at lunch...

I had an excellent view down the hill to Lake Emily and beyond to Emily Hill which backs onto it. It was most pleasant sitting in the sun and taking in my surrounds. 

Emily Hill backs Lake Emily, Hakatere Conservation Area

Lake Emily with Emily Hill and Mt Somers Range to rear

I noticed there is an unmarked farm building on the far side of Lake Emily...it looked like a backcountry hut from the shape. I know that a lot of these high country stations have started building huts and tracks as an alternate source of income. There was a side track skirting around the edge of the lake to the building...

...there is a station hut at the base of Emily Hill...

There isn't a whole lot of vegetation out in the Hakatere Conservation Area so it can seem a bit bleak. Personally I think it has a stark beauty all of its own and it is one of my favorite places to visit here in New Zealand. 

Classic scene from the Hakatere Conservation Area

On the way back to the car I passed this patch of wild growing Heather and exotic flowers. They were running down a hillside in the bed of an old dry river. I imagine some seed was dropped here at some time in the past and it just spread naturally. 

It was a rare touch of color in an otherwise brown and tan color palate...

Heather and exotic flowers along the Stour Valley Track

The morning clouds had started to clear as the afternoon run on so I got better views of the higher peaks around me. There was a nice vista out across the plains to Emily Hill and the Mt Somers Range which backs it. Some of the peaks in the Mt Somers Range are as high as 2500 asl. 

Beautiful weather in the Hakatere Basin

From the side of the Clent Hills you have a good view down the gap at the head of the Hakatere which runs through to the Rakaia River. The valley is probably about 30 kilometers long through here. 

Looking across Hakatere Conservation Area to Lake Stream

A couple of 4 W/D stop to chat, Hakatere Conservation Area

Heading back to Hakatere-Heron Road

The Hakatere Basin is best viewed on a day with blue skies and a small amount of cloud. It really brings out the stark nature of the terrain in the area...

Mt Taylor is blocked from view by cloud

Southern end of Manuka/Mt Somers Ranges

I stopped to have a look at one of the private property signs along the side of the trick. The TA Trust have negotiated access across the Castleridge Station but I am sure the farmer would much prefer to bar recreationalists from the land. There are a lot of legal issues to do with access here in New Zealand as we do not have a 'right to roam' as they do in other countries. 

It is essential that all users comply with the demands set by the landowners  or we could lose access to large sways of land if they decided to bar visitors. 

The farmers want you to stay on the official route!!!

Last view up the Stour River Valey

You eventually come up over the last rise and spy Castleridge Homestead. From here it is about 1.5 kilometers to the road end. I had been walking for nearly 5 hours by this point and even with sun screen I was cooked like your Sunday roast!!!

If you are gong to be spending much time walking in this type of exposed terrain I recommend you wear a long sleeved shirt for protection. Also make sure you have lots of water, sun glasses and a god sun hat...you will need them.

Castleridge Homestead from the Stour Valley Track

Sweet relief from the sun...Hakatere Conservation Area

Soon I was back at the farm gate and on the last 500 meters back to my car...

Farm gate marks end of Stour Valley Track

Heading along Castleridge Station Access Road

Here is a curious thing...I passed this Gooseberry bush as I made my way along the Castleridge Station Access Road. It was totally covered in fruit just waiting to go into a pie. There were no other plants like it in the area so I can only assume an errant berry was throw down here and took root. 

Gooseberry bush along the Castleridge Station access road

...Silver Surfer comes into view again...

It was a very pleasant walk but I was pleased to finally get back to the car. I was a bit de hydrated, sun burnt and footsore and I sure did enjoy getting out of the sun as I set off for home. 

At the Hakatere Crossroads:

A place you will pass on your way to and from destinations in the Hakatere Conservation Area is Hakatere itself. There is nothing there except a crossroad but it marks the transition point from the sealed Ashburton Gorge Road and the gravel roads in the Hakatere. 

Intersection of Hakatere-Potts and Hakatere-Heron Road

From the crossroad you can access Lake Clearwater and Mt Sunday along the Hakatere-Potts Road. If you go right here it will take you to Lake Heron Settlement and the northern part of the Hakatere Basin. 

Turn right to head to Lake Heron, Hakatere Conservation Area

There is an interesting collection of old farm cottages at the cross roads and this is the location of the original Hakatere Station homestead from the mid 1800's. It is worth spending some time having a look at the various buildings here before setting off back to Christchurch. 

One of the historic buildings at Hakatere Crossroads

Historic Places plaque at Hakatere Station

Original Hakatere Homestead at Hakatere Crossroads

As I have said before there are some great opportunities for getting outdoors in the Hakatere Conservation Area. If you have never visited you must drive up there sometime to see for yourself. 

Access: From Rakaia on SH1 follow Thompsons Track to Tramway Road and Mt Somers village. Join Ashburton Gorge Road to Hakatere Station and then follow Hakatere - Heron Road. There is a Te Araroa sign just before you reach Castleridge Station. 

Track Times: MTe Araroa Trail to the ridge overlooking Manuka Stream is 2-3 hours walking. It is approximately 6 kilometers from the Hakatere-Heron Road to the ridge. 

Miscellaneous:  It is 12 km's along gravel roads from Hakatere Station to the Te Araroa Trailhead at Castleridge Station. This is in the shadow of the Southern Alps so it is a alpine area with the resultant changeable weather. Access over winter can be blocked by heavy snow and ice. This is a remote area so make sure you have sufficient clothing, equipment and consumables to sustain your stay.