At the Otira Viaduct Lookout, Arthurs Pass NP: 18 September 2022

 A enviable view on the route over Arthur's Pass

I was up in Arthurs Pass NP last weekend walking the Arthurs Pass Walking Track (post to follow). after walking the track I drove back up to the Deaths corner Lookout to have a look at the Otira Viaduct. I was last here in May when Karen and I were on our way to Punakaiki for a long weekend here is the post about that trip.

The Otira Valley from the Lookout at Death's corner

The Otira Viaduct is an awesome piece of engineering and when it was completed in 1999 it was one of the most difficult construction jobs under taken in New Zealand up to that time. The builders had to contend with extreme weather, isolation, difficult terrain and some serious engineering problems but the project was finished on time and under budget. 

The Otira Viaduct is 440 meters long

It is an inspiring site from the Lookout which is an old section of SH 73 which used to snake up and over the huge shingle scree face coming down off Hills Peak and Mt Stuart. It is the ideal location for a lookout as it has clear unobstructed views down onto most of the Viaduct. 

Looking up to Hills Peak (1645) from the Viaduct Lookout

Waterfall on the southern side of the Otira Valley

Anyone traveling from the east coast to the west coast on SH73 drives over the Viaduct so it is really impossible to miss. You drive past the turn off to the Deaths Corner Lookout so it is very simple thing to stop for a few moments to check out the view. 

View back to Arthurs Pass from the Viaduct Lookout

View to Mt Barron (1730) from the Viaduct Lookout

Once the Viaduct was completed there was no need for the old road so the approaches on the Arthur's Pass side were turned into a magnificent lookout point. There is a sign posted turn off at the old Deaths Corner with views right down the Otira River Valley. You can see about four kilometers down the valley from here with high mountains closely following the route of the Otira River.

The Viaduct is up to 35 meters above the Otira Valley floor

Before the Viaduct any trip over this pass was always a sphincter clenching experience...it was winding, narrow and heinously steep. Many was the older English car that cooked an engine climbing the switchback road from Candy's Corner to Arthurs Pass.

...steep drop off to the floor of the Otira Valley...

V shaped buttresses protect the Viaduct support columns

There are two fine fenced off lookouts here and both have good views down to the viaduct, Otira River and down the Otira Valley. In fine weather or rain they provide magnificent views of this rugged section of the park. 

A word of caution though...do not cross the fences...there are significant drops from the lookout and a fall from here would not be good for your health. 

SH73 is the road over Arthur's Pass

The Viaduct was opened in 1999 by the PM of the day

You can back up to Arthurs Pass from the lookout as it is only about 2 kilometers up to the head of the Pass. You could walk to the Lookout from Arthurs Pass using the Arthurs Pass Walking Track but you would on the road shoulder from the Pass to the Lookout and I cannot really recommend this on such a narrow and very busy road. 

The access road is an old section of SH73

It is interesting sitting up near the Lookout and watching the cars, trucks and Campervans coming up the Viaduct. The gradient is not that bad but it still looks painful...

A series of vehicles climbing up the Otira Viaduct

The lookout is awesome in fine or wet weather and in fact it is interesting to visit in both conditions. The view is much curtailed in bad weather as the valley below often fills with cloud. You are sitting just about 1100 meters here so it is hardly surprising that the weather is dim a lot of the time. 

Rainy day view of the Otira Viaduct

SH73 is a very busy route from west to east

The Otira Viaduct has received many accolades and awards and has secured access across this formally difficult section of the highway. 

Higher water level in the Otira River after rain

Snow blankets the scree slope on Hills Peak

View from the lower lookout platform at Deaths Corner

Winter view to Arthurs Pass from Deaths Corner Lookout

 If you are lucky you will be entertained by the antics of Kea who live in the local area. There used to be big mobs of them here but the most I have seen here recently at one time would be about 3-5. That is the name for a group of Kea...a Mob. Very apt as they will happily dismantle your car/boat/motor bike if you leave them unattended for too long. They act like a bunch of teenage boys most of the time...

Kea live in the local area around the Lookout

Silver Surfer at Otira Viaduct Lookout in winter

I recommend you stop and check out the view for yourself the next time you pass this way. It is an interesting viewpoint and worthy of your attention. 

Access: The Otira Viaduct is on SH73 between Arthurs Pass Village and Otira. The Lookout is roughly two kilometers west of Arthurs Pass itself and is clearly signposted from both directions. There is space here for about 6-7 cars.

You Tube: Otira Viaduct Lookout

Otira Viaduct Lookout...AKA Death Corner

An engineering marvel...the Otira Viaduct

There is a marvel of engineering technology located right in the heart of one of our National Parks. It is the Otira Viaduct which passes high over the Otira River Valley on State Highway 73 between Arthurs Pass Village and Otira.

The Otira Viaduct in Arthurs Pass NP

Over 440 meters long (1440 feet) and 45 meters high it crosses an area of unstable land and was one of the largest and most expensive local engineering projects of the early 1990's.

A potted history of the Otira-Arthurs Pass Highway:

The road over Arthurs Pass to Otira has always been problematic...it is a high alpine area with massive rainfall events, steep difficult terrain and frequent and large earthquakes. This has made maintaining the route over the pass very difficult to achieve.

Map: Otira Viaduct...dotted line was the old road...now a tramping track

One particular problem was always the massive gravel slips just over the pass and coming down off Hills Peak/Mt Stuart between Pegleg Point and Candy's Corner. This is an active scree slope which frequently slipped over the road every time there was a major storm or a large earthquake. The transport authorities spent many millions each year keeping this section clear.

A trip over this road section was always a sphincter clenching experience...it was winding, narrow and heinously steep. Many was the older English car that cooked an engine climbing the switchback road. 

Hills Peak and Mt Stuart dominate the area around the Viaduct

SH73 winds over Arthurs Pass into the Otira River Valley

By the mid 1980's the authorities had enough and tendered a project to build a permanent solution to this tricky roadway. The winning tender was for a massive elevated viaduct from near Deaths Corner to a point further down the Valley. This would cut out the whole problematic section of the existing road and make maintenance of this vital transport route easier and more secure. 

Silver Surfer at the Otira Viaduct carpark

The project took over 6 years to complete and cost nearly $2 billion dollars but was ultimately successful. It featured many new techniques not previously used in New Zealand and provided a blueprint for similar projects right around the country. 

View down the Otira River Valley from the lookout

The scree slopes coming off Hills Peak/Mt Stuart, Arthurs Pass NP

The builders had to contend with brutal conditions especially during the harsh winters which stretched the project out past its intended finishing date. The population of both Arthurs Pass and Otira swelled with the workers constructing the viaduct as they were the closest places they could be housed. After many years of hard work they finished the viaduct in 1999 and it opened to general use. 

You can see how rough the Otira river Valley is...

The Otira Viaduct has received many accolades and awards and has secured access across this formally difficult section of the highway. 

A great viewpoint...

Once the viaduct was completed there was no need for the old road so the approaches on the Arthur's Pass side were turned into a magnificent lookout point. There is a sign posted turn off at the old Deaths Corner with views right down the Otira River Valley. From the lookout you have an unobstructed view of the Otira Viaduct. 

Closer view of the Otira Viaduct

There are two fine fenced off lookouts here and both have good views down to the viaduct, Otira River and down the Otira Valley. In fine weather or rain they provide magnificent views of this rugged section of the park. 

A word of caution though...do not cross the fences...there are significant drops from the lookout and a fall from here would not be good for your health. 

Silver Surfer at the Otira Viaduct on a rainy day

Mist cloaks the mountains above the Otira River Valley

The lookout is awesome in fine or wet weather and if you are lucky you will be entertained by the antics of Kea who live in the local area. They will happily dismantle your car/boat/motor bike if you leave them unattended for too long. 

Native Kea at the Otira Viaduct Lookout

It was a marvel of engineering when it was built and it is still one of the most difficult and expensive road projects in New Zealand history. Don't pass it by on your next trip over Arthurs Pass but stop and have a gander.

Access: The Otira Viaduct is on SH73 between Arthurs Pass Village and Otira. The Lookout is roughly two kilometers west of Arthurs Pass itself and is clearly signposted from both directions. There is space here for about 6-7 cars.

You Tube: Otira Viaduct Lookout

Bealey Valley Track, Arthurs Pass NP: March 2022:

A return to an old favorite...the Bealey Valley 

I'm a bit behind myself with posting on the blog...I have a couple of posts about a trip Karen and I did to Arthurs Pass in late March. I also have a post about a trip I did up to the Otira Valley in early April. Anyway....

Karen and I ventured up to Arthurs Pass for a couple of days in late March...we stayed at the Arthurs Pas Alpine Motel for a couple of nights and went for some walks in the park and around Arthurs Pass village. We had a great time as the weather was excellent the whole time which is rare in those parts this time of the year. 

Jon hamming it down at the train station...

Looking up the Bealey Valley towards the pass

If you have never stayed in Arthurs Pass before then let me recommend it as an excellent weekend getaway...there is plenty to do there. There are a couple of motels you can stay at as well as a campsite at Avalanche Creek, bookable bach's and the YHA. 

Arthurs Pass Alpine Motel...our unit

Otira Viaduct from the nearby lookout

Two of the tracks we visited were the Punchbowl Falls Track and the Bealey Valley Track which heads up to the source of the Bealey River on Mt Rolleston's eastern flank. In this post we will be looking at the Bealey Valley Track...

The Bealey Valley Track:

Those of you who have been to the blog before will know that Arthurs Pass National Park is my home tramping ground. It is the closest National Park to Christchurch and it is the place I first came to really enjoy the outdoors...it holds a special place in my heart and soul. 

Start of the track to the Bealey Valley off SH73

Jacks Hut is just visible opposite the start

Map: Mt Rolleston and the Bealey Valley Track

There are many fine walking and tramping tracks in the park and one of my favorite short walks is the track up to the Upper Bealey Valley. The track starts from the carpark opposite Jacks Hut and from here it is roughly two kilometers or 20 minutes walk to the river. Along the way you pass the Bealey Chasm and the Bealey Chasm Bridge a fine destination in their own right. 

Bealey Valley carpark...start point for several different tracks

DOC map of the various tracks in the National Park

To start you are walking along the Arthurs Pass Walking Track which reaches all the way from Arthurs Pass Village to the tarns on the pass itself. You walk about 400 meters along this track before taking the side track to the Bealey Valley. 

Heading down the Arthurs Pass Walking Track to start

The Arthurs Pass Walking Track is through old growth Beech forest

On the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

At the junction of the Arthurs Pass Walking Track and Bealey Valley Walk is a sign and a bench seat with views up to Mt Rolleston. Karen and I were taking some photos here when a South Island Robin flew down and took up a perfect position on the sign. We saw a few Robins over the weekend especially up the Punchbowl Falls Track on the next day. 

Junction of Arthurs Pass Walking Track and Bealey Valley Track

South Island Robin...Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Closer view of the South Island Robin

You descend off the Arthurs Pass Walking Track down a series of steps, stairs and boardwalk sections as you make your way down to the Bealey Chasm. The track quality is excellent right down to the bridge so it is easy walking for just about anyone. 

Descending down the Bealey Valley Track

...you are making for the Bealey Chasm...

We passed a couple of people up to this point and you will probably see some especially if it is a warm sunny day. This is one of the most popular walking tracks in the whole of Arthurs Pass NP. 

Steps, stairs and boardwalk...Bealey Valley Track

Thick moss covers all the surrounding forest floor

The Bealey River runs right down this valley from the eastern base of Mt Rolleston right out to the Waimakiriri River. At the Bealey Chasm the river narrows and forces its way through a series of narrow canyons and then goes underground through a limestone cavern for some distance. 

First view of the Bealey River from the track

The bridge over the Bealey Chasm

The water level in the river was low as there has not been that much rain over the summer...most of the river bed was exposed and you could clearly see where the river heads under ground. The bridge spans this spot and there is a short track down to the side of the river if you want to explore but watch your children as it can be dangerous. 

Upstream from the Bealey Chasm Bridge

....on the Bealey Chasm Bridge...

Bealey Chasm is downstream from the bridge

The rest of the Bealey Valley Track is on the true right of the Bealey River on a series of terraces. From the Chasm Bridge there is a short but steep climb up onto a higher terrace that has a couple of small tarns on it and is covered with red tussock. 

Bealey Valley Track...heading for the higher terrace

Take a bit of care on the climb up to the next river terrace as the track is steep and covered with roots and rocks...it is also slippery as it is has water trickling down sections of it. 

Steep climb up from the bridge at the Bealey Chasm

...heading for open terrain on the Bealey Valley Walk...

Tussock field at top of the climb from the Bealey Chasm

There are some awesome views from the open terrace and you have a near 360 view of all of the surrounding mountain ranges. You have great views to Mt Rolleston, Rome Ridge and Goldney's Ridge. 

Phipps Peak from the Bealey Valley Track

Goldney Ridge backs the Bealey Valley

View down the Bealey Valley towards the village

Boardwalk along the Bealey Valley Track

 Across the valley Mt Blimit, Temple Basin, Mt Temple and Phipps Peak are all prominent. All are more than 2000 meters high and form a formidable looking barrier to the east. There are several tracks to the top of this range and it is possible to traverse from above Punchbowl Falls all the way to the Taramakau Valley.

Temple Basin and Mt Temple, Arthurs Pass NP

Once across the tussock covered terrace it is back into the Beech forest for the rest of the way to the Upper Bealey River. You are walking on boardwalk for most of the way interspaced with forest track with bridges over all of the small side streams you strike. 

Back into the forest on the Bealey Valley Track

Blue arrow is for a pest line...Bealey Valley Track

Lots of boardwalk climbing the Bealey Valley Track

There are some interesting tree species up this valley as it is basically a sub alpine basin and you will see Dracophyllum, Fuchsia, and Mountain Totara as well as the more common Beech species. If you make it up to the head basin below Mt Rolleston you will find Mountain Daisies from November through January. 

Bealey Valley Track...bridge over side stream

Karen is taking a photo of Dracophyllum Trees

The boardwalk stretches for nearly a kilometer...Bealey Valley Track

I love the crazy shape of those Dracophyllum trees the tops of the leaves always remind me of Pineapples with those long shiny leaves. 

Native Dracophyllum tree...Bealey Valley Track

Native Fuchsia tree...Bealey Valley Track

It is about a kilometer from the Bealey Chasm Bridge to the side of the Bealey River...there is a bridge about 200 meters from the end of the track so when you cross it you are almost at your destination. 

Roots and rocks along the Bealey Valley Track

Another bridge on the Bealey Valley Track

Bealey River comes into view at end of Bealey Valley Track

It is safe to walk up to the edge of the Bealey River along this track but in the winter and spring months it can be dangerous to go any further. The valley is very steep with high ridges on both sides and is full of avalanche chutes which empty into the river itself. Never go past the side of the river if there has been a big snow dump as you are tempting fate...

The Avalanche warning sign...Bealey Valley Track

Bed of the upper Bealey River, Arthurs Pass NP

The Bealey River originates off Mt Rolleston

The bed of the Bealey Valley at the end of the track is an excellent spot for a spot of lunch...it is usually sunny and the sandflies are only a problem in summer. It is a great spot to sit, picnic, read, take photos of the nearby mountain and just take in the surrounds. 

Mt Rolleston from the Bealey River

East flank of Mt Rolleston (2275)

You can see how steep the Upper Bealey River is in the photo below...it heads uphill to the big basin on this side of Mt Rolleston. 

The Upper Bealey River is steep...

There is a flat gravel bank at the track end

View to Mt Rolleston from the Bealey River bed

The photo below shows one of the avalanche chutes...this one is directly opposite the end of the Bealey Valley Track. I came up here one June in the middle of the winter and there was a huge mound of snow piled up in the river bed and running up the hill from some avalanche...so the risk is very real.

Avalanche chute running off Goldney Ridge

Mt Rolleston totally dominates the Bealey Valley and it stretches nearly 1300 meters above you...

Mt Rolleston dominates the valley head

Huge buttresses on the east side of Mt Rolleston

Karen and I sat on the side of the river and ate some sandwiches I had brought from the Café in the village. If you are coming up here bring a brew kit as the water in the river is fine to drink...there is nothing finer than brewing up on the side of a river. 

You can drink the water in the Bealey Valley here

Karen sitting in the sun and photographing the river

Portrait of Jon in the Bealey Valley

It is possible to climb along the side of the river for about another 400 meters to a small knob looking down over the basin at the bottom of the eastern face of Mt Rolleston. It is hazardous to go past the knob as the terrain steepens and is really only suitable for experienced climbers. 

It is possible to climb higher along the side of the Bealey River

Last view up to Mt Rolleston before heading home

Looking down stream from the end of the track...Bealey Valley

After about 25 minutes up at the river side we headed back down the track...it is slightly quicker heading back to the carpark as the gradient of the track downhill back to the bridge at Bealey Chasm. 

Bealey Valley Track...heading back to the car

A dangerous track in Winter...or if heavy snow in place!!!

There is also a side track up valley which starts from near the avalanche sign...it is just in from the edge of the forest. It is an easier route than walking up the river but only just...it is rocky and full of roots. This track also has avalanche routes crossing it so once again...don't go up it in Winter or after heavy snow. 

The side track up to the basin at head of Bealey River

We headed back down the track taking photos as we went....

Heading back down the Bealey Valley Track

The most obvious Dracophyllum trees are near the bridge just down from the valley end of the track. There is a small grove of them growing along the side of the stream and up the nearby hillside. 

Dracophyllum along the Bealey Valley Track

Closer view of the Dracophyllum trees

The boardwalk makes for fast and easy walking and you basically speed down the track in a blur. 

Bealey Valley Track...boardwalk...

...more boardwalk...

...and even more boardwalk on the Bealey Valley Track

You get a good idea of the gradient of the track in the photo below...it doesn't seem that steep on the way up but it is actually quite significant. 

You can see the gradient of the Bealey Valley Track

More Dracophyllum along the Bealey Valley Track

Before you know it you are back at the clearing around Margaret's Tarn. When I was a child the tarn filled half the clearing but it has gradually filled with silt and is just a low, swampy depression now. 

Temple Col from the Bealey Valley Track

Back near Margaret's Tarn on the Bealey Valley Track

Watch the track from the clearing down to the bridge...both Karen and I slipped over along here as it has water running down the center of the track. I filmed a super friendly South Island Robin along this section...have a look on the You Tube vlog to see it...

Karen heading down to the Bealey Chasm Bridge, Bealey Valley Track

Belay Chasm Bridge...Bealey Valley Track

Back over the Bealey Chasm after a stop to take some more photos and it was back into the climb back up to the Arthurs Pass Walking Track.

Bealey Chasm bridge from the true right side

Low flow in the mid Bealey River

...start of climb back up to Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Karen takes some last shots off the Bealey Chasm Bridge

The climb back up to the main track is easy work with all the stairs and soon deposits you at the track junction at the top. 

Climbing up to the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

DOC sign at the track junction...Arthurs Pass Walking Track

The last section out to the carpark was the same quality track you started the walk on...

Back along the Arthurs Pass Walking Track to the carpark

First glimpse of the carpark...Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Soon we were back at the carpark...all up it took us about 40 minutes to walk the track and 25 minutes at the river so you can walk to the river and back in just over an hour.

End of the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

When you are at the carpark take the opportunity to go over and have a look at Jacks Hut...it is one of the original roadman's huts from when stage coaches used the route over the pass. It used to be in a different location but was relocated here as a holiday home in the 1920's. It was donated to DOC in the 2010's and is now being maintained as a historic hut. 

Historic Jacks Hut, Arthurs Pass NP

Information panel inside Jacks Hut

You might also enjoy checking out the mile marker at the carpark...these stones stretched from Springfield to the Taramakau River and marked the distance along the old stage route. Many of them are still in situ and if you watch for them you will see them as you head along the highway over Arthurs Pass. 

A mile marker at the Arthurs Pass Walking Track carpark

I have been up the Bealey Valley over a dozen times now and I always enjoy it...this is a wonderful walk within most peoples abilities and one of the best in Arthurs Pass National Park. Give it a go the next time you pass through...even if you only go to the Bealey Chasm. 

Access: Turn off SH 73 at the car-park opposite Jacks Hut, the track starts next to the car-park. The first 200 meters are on the Arthur's Pass Walking Track, then turn off onto the Bealey Valley Track

Track times: 30-40 minutes to the Upper Bealey River, then 30 minutes to the cirque under Goldney Ridge.

Hut Details: Jacks Hut (historic) no stay allowed

Miscellaneous: Avalanche and rock fall danger in the Upper Bealey Valley, do not go past the end of the track in winter unless you have some avalanche awareness. No toilets at any point along this track.

You Tube: Bealey Valley Track