Magdalen Hut: 1-2 November 2013

Return to an old favourite... Magdalen Hut, St James Conservation Area

This is my first trip for a number of months as poor weather and a family trip to Australia meant that I didn't get out over the winter months.  My original plan was to visit Mid Robinson Hut near Lake Christabel, but less than ideal weather meant I needed to find a new tramp.

The St James Walkway: southern exit - car park, Boyle Village

Day One: On the way to Magdalen Hut

I took the opportunity to go for an overnight tramp up the St James Walkway to Magdalen Hut.
 It is about 11 km's upriver, 10 km's to the second swing bridge turn right and another 1 km downriver. I love this hut it is clean, tidy and in a great spot, this is the 2nd time I have been here.

Boyle Village to Magdalen Hut

Here is the car park at the beginning/end of the walkway, it is not a large area but it is relatively secure as the Boyle River outdoor education centre is right next to it.
  

Sign at southern end of St James Walkway

  

As you can see, this is either the start or finish of the walkway depending on which way you walk the track.

St James Walkway: 4 W/D track up valley

You can follow a gravel access road to the beginning of the track about 1.5 km's up the valley, this is an easier option than the sidle track at the beginning of the walkway.




Lower swing bridge, Boyle River

The real track begins at the first wire bridge over the Boyle River, as you can see in the photo below the river was running high due to recent rain.



Rain filled Boyle River from the first swing bridge

It did occur to me that you wouldn't even have time to think "I'm going to die" if you fell into the river. Luckily the St James has walk wire or swing bridges over all of the significant rivers.

Boyle River from the St James Walkway

Another view of the very swollen river, normal flow would be about a quarter or less of this amount. I heard a low rumbling sound as I was walking this part of the track. I assumed it was a bulldozer etc. working up valley until I got closer to the the river and realised the Boyle was making the sound. In high flow New Zealand rivers will pick up boulders and drag them along the river bottom making a low rumbling sound.

You should not enter a river making this sound or you will die, its that simple!



St James Walkway:on the way to Magdalen Hut

Here is the track condition about 2 kms up the valley. The weather wasn't too bad, I had rain for about 30 minutes of the 3.5 hours it took to get to the hut. The rest of the time it was cool with occasional low cloud as seen below.

St James Walkway: Approaching St Andrews Flat

My lunch stop on a river terrace overlooking the river, it was a bit misty, so I deployed the new cheap 6'x4' groundsheet/tarp I brought recently for $6.00. It worked really well, and weighs only 200gms so doesn't weigh me down.

St James Walkway: View down valley from mid point of day

The track sidles over river terraces and small spurs for the first 3 kms, the river is below and about 500 distant from the track. I passed a trio of female hunters, probably early 20's, carrying a deer "Indian" style tied to a pole out to the road head. I assume they were by themselves as I didn't see anyone else about. I often see male hunters when I'm tramping, this was the first all women group.

There is an suggestion about that all tramping parties in New Zealand should carry a firearm. The idea is that we could all be blasting deer, rabbits, stouts, possums, Thar etc. and help the native flora and fauna. I think it has merit, provided people didn't start blasting each other as well.

Crossing St Andrews Flat, St James Walkway, St James Conservation Area

About 2 hours in you cross some cattle flats, before ascending over a last spur before reaching the second Boyle River swing bridge. As you can see the weather had improved by this point.

Magdalen Hut (2007)

Here is Magdalen Hut it is a very tidy hut in a large clearing on the beech forested river flats. The whole area is fenced to keep out the cattle which live in the area. This is an fantastic place for an overnight trip or easy family tramping trip. Apart from some mud and Maritana stream there are few hazards.

Magdalen Hut: me standing outside the hut

Here I am both inside/outside the hut, as you can see it is very nice inside, with bunk spaces for 6. You could chuck another 2-3 people on the floor if needed, there is a lot of space. It has an excellent firebox, selection of 80/90's magazines and plenty of wood in the immediate area.

Magdalen Hut interior showing the table and wod burner

There were only two of us in the hut overnight, myself and another tramper from Christchurch, Phil. We had a good chat about tramps we have done or want to do, he was attempting a 3 day traverse of the whole St James. Phil was an old tramping buddy of one of my neighbours, which just goes to show you how small the world really is.

View towards Maritana and the Opera Range, rain coming in

Slightly threatening cloud blew by all afternoon with some brief showers none of them sustained.

Maritana Stream next to Magdalen Hut

Here is a view of Maritana stream, located right next to the hut, I was slightly concerned about this stream as you need to cross it to reconnect with the track. No bridges!  In the event there wasn't enough rain overnight to cause any problems. There is a nice swimming hole in the Maritana, its a couple of hundred metres upstream, great for a swim or clean up.

Day two: Return to Boyle Village via the St James Walkway

Magdalen Hut at sunrise on day two

There was a mild frost the next morning, the area around the hut was a bit cold, the frost quickly disappeared as the sun rose and warmed the valley.

View of Magdalen Hut from across Muritana Stream

Here is a view of the hut from the far side of Maritana stream early the next morning. I enjoy travelling in the early morning hours, the light is interesting from 6am-9am in the morning and I like the quietude of the morning, it is also more comfortable as the air is cooler.

St James Walkway: The track back to the second Boyle River bridge

The track back to the Boyle swing bridge meanders along next to the river, easy travel through the mostly open forest. The track sidles up the hill in a few spots as the river is eating away the true left bank. I think a new track will eventually need to be cut as the erosion is fast moving, more of the bank is gone each time I visit.

Mid Boyle River swing bridge, from the true left bank

Here is the approach to the second Boyle swing bridge, it was a bit icy on the morning in question.

DOC St James Walkway sign at the Mid Boyle swingbridge

If you continue past the Boyle swing bridge eventually you will eventually arrive at Boyle Flat Hut, about another 1-1.5 hours up river.

St James Walkway: swing bridge

Classic Kiwi swing bridge; absolutely necessary for crossing this river when there is any kind of heightened flow. In the middle of summer it is possible to ford the Boyle River down by the hut and connecting with the walkway, thus saving about an hour. Personally I would always use the bridge and save myself from coming to possible grief in this unpredictable river.

St James Walkway: Climbing over the ridge

The track climbs to this high point on the far side of the bridge, then sidles for about 2 kms through mixed red and lowland beech forest.

St James Walkway:Muddy conditions

The track was quite muddy after overnight rain, in some places it was necessary to go off the formed track or chuck down material to allow you to advance. I built several bridges on the way to help the next people who come along.

St James Walkway: More of the mud...

Lovely Somme like mud, the track needs some attention. A raised board walk in this area would be ideal, it would make the walking easier and save the delicate forest plants because people have started to "blaze" their own trails around the mud.

St James Walkway: Lots of windfall trees

There were significant areas of windfall, both on and off the track. This windfall ran up the hill for about 100 meters, a domino effect had led to a lot of trees knocking over their neighbours. The logs could be used to "corrugate" the track, as you find in other countries. With recent DOC job losses, it will probably just rot on the ground, what a waste of timber! 

St James Walkway: Heading down to St Andrews Flat

More views of the windfall, these trees came down in the wind storms in July and August 2013 as there was no damage in this area the last time I came through in early 2013. There was widespread damage through out Canterbury, some wind gusts went up to 160-180kph.

Obviously, beech forest does not like those kinds of wind speeds.

St James Walkway: Looking east towards the Poplar Range

St James Walkway: View east across St Andrews Flat

Eventually you emerge to views of the river flats, and a view down stream towards the gorge of the Boyle River. A possible alternate egress route is along the farm track on the far side of the valley, as it goes all the way down to the outdoor education centre. Please note that this is private land so permission must be sought first.

St James Walkway: Crossing one of the bush fingers en route

The final part of the track is along an old river terrace which is about 30 metres higher than the level of the river, it is picturesque with the forest, bird life and sound of the Boyle River in the background.

Back at the lower Boyle River swing bridge

Eventually you get back to the first Boyle swing bridge, then climb to the 4W/D track and out to the road end. It was an excellent trip, as I said earlier I hope to make a visit an annual event. 

On the gravel road heading back to Boyle Village

I highly recommend a trip to the hut as a easy family tramp, or for a short overnighter. Hopefully, in February I will be walking the whole St James Walkway (67 kms) of which this trip is but a small part.

Access: The track starts off SH 7 at Boyle Village, follow the southern entrance of the St James Walkway. Once over the second Boyle swingbridge turn right and head downstream on the true left of the Boyle River

Track Times: 4 hours to Magdalen Hut on the St James Walkway

Hut Details: Magdalen Hut: standard, 6 bunks, wood burner, water tank, wood shed, toilets

Miscellaneous: Maritana Stream and many of the smaller side streams may flood in heavy rain



Magdalen Hut, Lake Summer Forest Park: December 2012

A trip to Magdalen Hut, St James Conservation Area

I went up to the Lewis Pass area for an overnight trip in to Magdalen Hut on the St James Walkway, it was 9 km (4 hours walk) from the Boyle River Outdoor Education Centre. The centre offers a car parking and shuttle service, I left my car in their care and followed the St James Walkway back up the valley,  this is the opposite direction from those walking the complete walkway.

Mid way to Magdalen Hut, St James Conservation Area

Day One: Boyle Village to Magdalen Hut: 11 kms, 3-4 hours

I started the St James Walkway from the carpark off the road to Boyle Settlement...there is space for about 10 cars here with a toilet and track signage. It is actually safer to park your car at the Boyle Outdoor Education Centre (BOEC) right next to the carpark. The track starts from next to the toilet block and heads up the Boyle River Valley to the first swingbridge over the river. 

Start of the St James Walkway at the Boyle River entrance

The carpark at the Boyle entrance to the St James Walkway

DOC sign at start of the St James Walkway at Boyle river

  The track is in excellent condition, wide and easily followed, as befits one of the track on the Te Araroa Trail. Many thousands of people must walk along this track every year either as a tramp of the St James Walkway or following the Long Pathway. It is also one of the entry points for trips to the rest of the St James Conservation Area and the Opera, Libretto and Poplars Ranges. 

Map: Boyle Settlement to Magdalen Hut

Sidle track, St James Walkway, near the start of the track at Boyle River

Crossing a side stream on the way to the Boyle River

You cross over two swing bridges on the way to the hut one near the start and the other is at the junction of the St James Walkway and the Track to Magdalen Hut. As you can see the rivers were high as there had been a week of hard rain just before I visited. 

Classic kiwi tramping territory with single track and swing bridges!



Lower swing bridge over Boyle River, St James Walkway

 

 You pass a number of meadows as you walk along they were all covered in these beautiful yellow flowers quite idyllic. This trip was at the beging of summer the time when alpine flowers begin to bloom. 



Forest meadow near the Boyle river swing bridge, St James Walkway

 

The walkway follows the forest edge most of the way up the valley with the occasional foray into the bush. The Boyle River Valley is a part of the Glenhope high country station in its lower reaches and becomes the St James Conservation Area close to Magdalen Hut.



View up Boyle Valley from mid way point to Magdalen Hut, St James Conservation Area



Looking up the Boyle Valley towards St Andrews Homestead, St James Conservation Area

The St James Walkway can be muddy in places as there are numerous small streams crossing the track. There are also a number of seasonal bogs in the forest itself as the land is low and flat and gets quite a bit of rain. It can be useful to wear long gaiters on this track as you will get very wet and muddy otherwise. 

Muddy track conditions on the St James Walkway

You wil often find makeshift bridges over the muddiest sections of the track with corrogation being the most often used method to cross wet, boggy ground. Feel free to chuuck some more logs in the mire to build the track up if you like...



St James walkway, the highest point this trip, above the second Boyle River swingbridge

The Boyle River was bank to bank near the second swing bridge...normally you can ford this river lower down but only an idiot would have entered it that day. It was too deep and swift for any river crossings...

Upper Boyle River swing bridge, St James Walkway



I stayed at Magdalen Hut, which is 30 mins down the true left of the Boyle River from the second swing bridge. You access the hut along a short track heading down the side of the river. It is an excellent hut, with plenty of space around it for tenting, but the sand flies are atrocious. 

Beware and bring your DEET!



Magdalen Hut, St James Conservation Area


Built in 2010 Magdalen Hut is one of the new breed of 6 bunkers...spacious, insulated and with a top notch log burner and rain water tank. This would make an excellent family trip destination. Thanks to the Hanmer Scouts who had recently visited and dropped off a load of dry wood for the hut woodburner.

Magdalen Hut: the cooking bench...

The nearby Boyle River is a noted trout fishery and you will often see anglers trying their hand in its waters.Totally useless on the day I visited as the rain had made the water dirty and hard to see into. I walked down to the river to have a look later in the afternoon. 

Magdalen Hut with the Poplar Range to the rear

I spent most of the afternoon cutting up firewood, drinking tea and reading the massive pie of FMC magazines in the hut. Dinner on this trip was a Backcountry Cuisine freee dried meal...Lamb Fettucine washed down with Orange-Mango Raro. 

Magdalen Hut: the bunks with my gear laid out on my bunk for the night

I shared the hut that night with Phil an American academic and hiker in New Zealand for a conference. He arived at 6 pm just as it was starting to get dark after driving to Lewis Pass at noon... 

My Marmot Trestles sleeping bag in Magdalen Hut

It was interesting to share details about families, hiking/tramping culture and recent political events in the US (it was just after the 2013 US election between Barrack Obama and John McCain). Lets just say that Phil was not a fan of Sarah Pallin....he kept refering to her as 'that idiot from Alaska".

The wood burner in Magdalen Hut, St James Conservation Area



Inside Magdalen Hut St James Conservation Area (2012)

 We had an enjoyable evening in the hut as it was warm inside but cold outside so when the fire died down later it was a nice comfortable tempreture in the hut. There was a little rain over night but it was well finished by the time we woke the next morning. 

Interior of Magdalen Hut, St James Conservation Area

I was super snug in my Marmot Trestles sleeping bag...really too much bag for this trip but I am currently saving money to buy myself a decent down sleping bag. I didnt have a lot of tramping gear after so many years in hiatus so i am slowly building it back up once again. 

Day 2: Magdalen Hut to Boyle Village: 11 kms, 3-4 hours

The route out the next morning followed the St James Walkway back down valley along the same route.  It was another beautiful day to be out tramping...overcast but warm with light wind. I was up and out of the hut by 8 am it was not raining so I was able to walk without my jacket all the way back to Boyle Village.



Magdalen Hut, Muritana Stream in front of the hut

In the forest on the way to the Middle Boyle swingbridge

From the Middle Boyle swingbridge it is only 3 km's or an hours walk to Boyle Flat Hut the next accomodation option along the St James Walkway. 

Boyle Flat Hut is one more hour along the track....

Preparing to cross the swingbridge on the Middle Boyle River

Once back at the swing bridge it was a short climb back up the river teraces on the true right of the Boyle River. These take you about 100 meters over the end of a spur before dropping back down to the grassy flats along the edge of the forest. 



St James Walkway, heading home along the edge of Boyle River



More attractive beech forest track on the St James Walkway

The track follows the edge of the forest over river flats for some distance in the middle of the valley, it makes for quick and very easy walking. It is so much quicker walking back along a track you have just visited...it almost seems like the time just flies by...



Boyle River Valley, about halfway to the Boyle Outdoor Education Centre from Magdalen Hut





Another meadow of summer flowers on the St James Walkway

  

Back at the lower Boyle River swing bridge

I made excelent progress back down the valley and soon found myself back at the start of the track. This is the track just before it emerges near the Boyle Education Centre...as you can see it is quite civilised for a New Zealand bush track.



Track end St James walkway near the Boyle River exit...



An excellent track, with a fantastic hut to stay in, I had a lot of fun on this trip. I would like to walk the whole St James Walkway and I would definitely make the effort to visit the hut again.

Boyle Outdoor Education Centre from the road outside the centre

This was an awesome trip and the one I should have made before tackling the Andrews-Casey-Binser Circuit. This is just a taste of the greater St James Walkway which I intend to walk sometime in the coming years. 

Magdalen Hut is a real cracker and I can throughly recomend a visit right through the year as it is easily accessible in all but the very worst of weather. As a side trip off the St James or as a trip on its own it has a lot to offer.

Access: Along the St James Walkway from the Boyle River Settlement off SH 7, Lewis Pass.
Track Times: 3-4 hours from Boyle Settlement, 30 minutes from the second swingbridge over the Boyle River
Hut Details: Magdalen Hut; Standard, 6 bunks, wood burner, water tank, toilet, wood shed
Miscellaneous: Muritana Stream can be a problem in moderate rain, some other side streams on the St James Walkway are impassible in heavy rain. The BOEC can provide secure carparking and car shuttle services if previously arranged.