Nelson Lakes National Park, Lakehead Hut, May 26-27th

A overnight trip to Lakehead Hut

 I went up to Lakehead Hut in late May to visit one my old stomping grounds. I like Nelson Lakes National Park as it is a good place to adventure to with its many good huts and clear to follow tracks. I was visiting Lakehead Hut which is there at the end of Lake Rotoiti approximately 2.5 hours from my start point. 

Lake Rotoiti seen from Kerr Bay

 

I started from Kerr Bay with the intention of visiting the early part of the Travers Valley...at this time of the year Lakehead Hut is clear of avalanche danger and is easily reached by trampers leaving the Bay. This was a part of my Winter 2023 series of tramps before I got sick. 

This trip was partially an attempt to get some tramping time in for my big Milford Track tramp which you have probably seen several times now. 

 Anyway this is how the Nelson Lakes trip went....

Day One: Kerr Bay to Lakehead Hut:

It was noon before I got to St Arnaud so I didn't mess around but grabbed my gear and started walking as soo as I arrived. I walked up the Lakehead Track as it only takes about two and a half hours to get to the hut. 

Start of the track at Kerr Bay, Nelson Lake National Park

Information panels sitting in the forest

I like the Lakehead Track it is interesting without being overly strenuous and you can set a cracking pace for most of its length. Most of the people I saw were coming down the valley after going for day walks and the such...there weren't many of them. It was periodically raining off and on as I was walking.

The point where the track deteriorates into Lakehead Track

You travel through open beech forest, Lakehead Track

I got to the Loop Track-Lakehead Track junction after about 40 minutes walking...this was one of the tracks I walked before and mentioned on the blog. It is about an hour around and sets down at the start of the track. 

Here I am at the far end of the Loop Track

I spent about 10 minutes stopped at the junction before setting out for the hut once again. 

Sign marking the transition between the Loop Track and Lakehead Track

Further down the track I came apoun this bridge...it is almost buried in rock because every time it rains a big load of shingle is released down it. Eventually it will be covered over and the route will be re-routed. 

Gravel covered bridge on the Lakehead Track

Point about half-way to the wharf, Lakehead Track

I got a good look up and down Lake Rotoiti when I got to the beach halfway to the hut....the track goes out onto a small shingle beach for about 20 meters and then jumps back into the forest. The sun had come out and I actually saw some blue skies for a short while. 

The Lake was very quiet...there were a couple of boats going up and down but that was it really. I saw a boat load of people heading for the wharf at Whiskey Falls so I imagine they were going for a sightseeing trip

...beach opposite Mt Roberts...

The track continues in the beech forest...Nelson Lake National Park

This is a part of the track which has been blasted out of the surrounding face and the track trough here is benched.At one time a farmer ran sheep up around the flats near Lakehead Hut.

Blasted track is easygoing on the Lakehead Track

There are only two sizable streams along the track the first one is about halfway to the hut and the second is before the Lakehead Hut wharf. These are the only places where heavy rain could thwart your forward progress as neither of them are bridged. Most of the time they are easy to cross but just use a bit of caution if it has been or is raining

River running down off the St Arnaud Range

Lake Rotoiti is a deep post glacial lake...an ancient glacier carved the lake depression as it moved back and forth in the valley. Because of this the lake is quite deep in places but shallow in others. There are a couple of spots along the track where you can see the lake bed...it is covered in old dead trees and stumps of trees.

I would think most of them came down the Travers River in floods but some would mark old shoreline.

Looking back at the exit of Lake Rotoiti

One of the beaches up Lake Rotoiti

Most of the track is nice flat sections running through open beech forest but there are also rocky sections on old stream-beds, rock gardens where the track makers have blasted through hard rock and even some sections of the old benched dray road that used to wind along the lake side.

Back on the Lakehead Track, Nelson Lakes National Park

From this point onward you start to see the head of Lake Rotoiti about two kilometers distant...you can also see up the Travers Valley along Robert Ridge, the St Arnaud, and Travers Ranges. 

Another of the rivers, Lakehead Track

 Traver's  River runs down the true left of the valley and its outlet is close to Coldwater Hut on the distant shore. Most of the land between the two sides of the lake are an enormous reed swamp.

Going up on a point over looking the wharf...Lakehead Track

Eventually you reach the Lakehead Hut wharf after walking for about 2 hours. You have good views of the outlet of the Travers River and also Coldwater Hut on the opposite side of the lake. 

Finally arrive at the wharf...Lakehead Track

I could see Coldwater Hut was occupied as it had wood smoke coming out of the chimney and a boat tied to the wharf. The wharf here is a good spot for swimming as the lake is shallow but keep an eye out for the massive native eels which live in this lake.

View from the Lakehead Wharf

The swamp around the head of Lake Rotoiti

From the wharf it is only 700 meters to the hut or about 20 minutes walk...it is longer than it sounds but you are buoyed by the fact that you are nearly there. The track passes the head of the lake and the swampy terrain which lies there.

...Lakehead Track making for the hut...

This is the 9th time I have stayed in Lakehead Hut as I really love Nelson Lakes National Park and get up here on a regular basis. I thought I might have the hut to myself and so it proved. I was the only resident of the hut on the night I stayed.  

First view of Lakehead Hut

Lakehead Hut, Nelson Lakes National Park

I got to the hut around 3 pm which was fine as there was still 2-3 hours of sunlight left for me to get my evening preparation underway before it got too dark. I cut some wood for the fireplace and settled inot the hut.

..making a brew in the hut...

...organising some lunch in Lakehead Hut...

I took some photos of my suroundings as I sat there..

...Interior shot of Lakehead Hut...

I used up the meager firewood on the first night...the wood shed at Lakehead Hut was totally empty which is the first time I have ever seen it like this.There were some forestry off cuts staked up outside the hut and I helped myself to them even though they were wet. I spent the night drying the rest of the wood so I could then feed it in the fire. 

Jon at Lakehead Hut

I had a good night in the hut even though I was by myself. I had a Chicken Italiano meal for dinner and some Mashed potato to eat on the side. It was nice then i spent the rest of the night baking myself in front of the fire before I turned in early to try and get some sleep.

...My dinner I enjoyed at the hut...

I had a good sleep in the deserted hut and got 10 hours sleep.

Day Two: Lakehead Hut to St Arnaud:

I was up and getting ready to go by 07.30 the next day...I was keen to get back to the car as I wasn't sure if I might not have to drive down the coast to get home. 

Early morning and I'm brewing a coffee, Nelson Lake National Park

Interior detail of the hut showing fireplace...Lakehead Hut

It was cloudy as I set off but I didn't have any rain or drizzle on my way back to St Arnaud and in fact the sun came out around 8.40 am and it got finer and warmer as the day went on. 

...I leave the hut enroute for the road...

Nice fine weather over the lake as I passed by...I saw a boat collecting people from Coldwater Hut so they must have pre booked an early morning pick up from the dude who runs the water taxi service on the lake. 

Looking at Lakehead Hut dock

Despite all the rain the track was relatively dry and easy to walk along...I only had a couple of puddles to walk through and the river levels were fine for a solo tramper to ford. This was good as I was a bit worried after all the rain. 

Making my way trough the forest enroute for my car

View of Lake Rotoiti as I walked out

After the early morning mist blew away it was a blue sky day and I could see all the new snow which had fallen on the higher peaks over the last three days. I imagine anyone at Angelus Hut up on Robert Ridge had a sporty trip back to the road head as there would be deep snow drifts up at that altitude. 

Rock garden i walked through...Lakehead Track

...Making my way down the track...

Whiskey Falls was roaring away when I passed...I could clearly hear it from the other side of the lake...it would have got a good feed from all that rain over night. I would have liked to walk out via Lakeside Track but there was no damn way anyone was getting over the Travers River ford for a couple of days at least. 

Beach opposite Whiskey Falls, Nelson Lake National Park

I was soon back on the flat track, Lakehead Track

I got to the edge of the inland predator free island after 1 hour and 15 minutes so I was moving quickly. The walk back to St Arnaud always seems quicker than the walk into the Travers...probably because you have those track way-points fresh in your head from the trip up lake

Passing the point where Loop Track intersects Lakehead Track

I was at the Loop Track-Trackhead Track junction after an hour and 35 minutes, I stopped for my first break of the morning, had drink/snacks and took some photos. From the junction you only have 20 minutes of walking left along fairly nice track so the end is in sight as they say. 

On the easy section of the track near the start

You always boost your pace when you get close to the end of a tramp so you have to slow yourself down. I almost inevitably stumble or fall over and hurt myself close to the end of a track s

so I have learnt to slow down and walk the same steady pace so I don't injure myself.

Climbing over a headland, Lakehead Track

Back near the start of the Lakehead Track

 

I finally walked off the end of Lakehead Track after 2 hours and 10 minutes so I made excellent time. It was busy at the Kerr Bay boat ramp with groups launching boats, boarding water taxis, walking around etc. 

I will have to come back up after the holiday madness to do the camping trip that I had planned for this weekend. A few days of good weather in early January/Feburary would fit the bill....

I arrive at Kerr Bay. Nelson Lakes National Park

Farwell Lake Rotoiti. Nelson Lake National Park

Any time I can get away to Nelson Lakes National Park is a good time for me. I love it up here and once again wished I lived in Nelson (only 2 hours away...) so I could enjoy it more often. 

I might be back late in 2023 for a couple of trips I have planned for the park but we will just have to see how things pan out. Cheers...

Access: Lakehead Track is in the Travers Valley, Nelson Lakes NP. Access is from the Kerr Bay boat ramp around the edge of the lake. There is a water taxi service, cost is $100 per boat and can be found at the Kerr Bay jetty.  

Track Times: It is 2-3 hours to Lakehead Hut from St Arnaud. It is another 20 minutes to the ford near the mouth of the Travers River, then 10 minutes to Coldwater Hut. 

Hut Details: Lakehead Hut : Serviced, 28 bunks, water tank, wood shed, toilets: Coldwater Hut: Serviced. 14 bunks, water tank, woodshed, toilet.  

Miscellaneous: Some un-bridged side streams, only a problem in major rain events but care is required at all times. You cannot go up the valley from May until November due to the avalanche risk.

Nelson Lakes NP: Honeydew Walk: 12 November 2022

 On the Honeydew Walk at Lake Rotoiti

The other short walk I did while on my recent tramping trip to Nelson Lakes NP was the Honeydew Walk.  It is a great little walk and it branches off the main Lakehead Track running along the lake side. 

Lake Rotoiti from the start of the track at Kerr Bay

The first part of the track is along the side of Lake Rotoiti before you climb up onto a an old glacial terrace and do a loop through the beech forest. It was a little windy in the forest but otherwise it was a perfect day to be out and walking. 

DOC signs at start of Lakehead Track

At the start of the track at Kerr Bay

Lake Angelus can be accessed along the Lakehead Track

I had contemplated walking the longer St Arnaud Range Track but as that took another five hours and involved climbing steeply up a series of switchbacks for many kilometers I decided to go with the slightly easier option. 

On the Honeydew Track:

The Honeydew Walk is a short side track off the main Lakehead Track...it is about one kilometer long and takes 25 to 30 minutes to make your way around. 

DOC map of the track network from Kerr Bay

Setting out from Kerr Bay to walk the Honeydew Track

The track skirts Lake Rotoiti to start...

On the Lakehead Track at Lake Rotoiti

The eastern terminus of the Honeydew Track starts about a kilometer from Kerr Bay and it climbs up onto old glacial terraces before sidling around and back down to the main track about 300 meters from the carpark. 

Map: Honeydew Walk, Nelson Lakes NP

Just to clarify things a bit...on the map above I is the Honeydew Walk, II is the St Arnaud Range Track and III is the Lakehead Track. The eastern end of the Honeydew Track comes off the Lakehead Track while the western end attaches to the end of the St Arnaud Range Track. 

Western Terminus of the Honeydew Walk

You can walk the track in either direction it is really up to you to choose. Clock wise from the eastern end is probably best...

Eastern terminus of the Honeydew Walk

Climbing onto the Honeydew Walk, Nelson Lakes NP

Honeydew Walk: the life cycle of a beech forest....

     

The Honeydew Walk travels through a magnificent area of beech forest and is a part of the Lake Rotoiti Recovery Project. The Project aims to restore a vast swathe of forest in Nelson Lakes NP back to a pre human condition. To this end they have an extensive trapping program for introduced pests and they also undertake planting to restore the forest cover. 

Information about the Inland Island project

Initially the project only covered about 100 hectares but it has since grown to cover over 5000 hectares of forest, tussock grasslands and mountain tops. It has created a virtual 'Inland Island' where birds, insects and small animals are able to thrive. 

Walking along the first terrace on the Honeydew Walk

On the Honeydew Track at Lake Rotoiti

The Honeydew Walk is an all weather track with just the one bridged stream crossing. The track is dirt and covered with leaves but it is well drained and elevated so it is usually quite dry. Although it is not wheelchair friendly it is not far off...it is wide, well maintained and easy to walk along. 

Only bridge along the all weather Honeydew Walk

Not much water in the stream...Honeydew Walk

After the initial climb up onto an old glacial terrace you find yourself sidling along a mostly flat track with a variety of beech species and podocarp trees. You can see quite a way out into the open forest and it is a very pleasant place to go for a stroll. 

There are several information panels along the Honeydew Walk

Honeydew Walk: the fauna of Nelson Lakes NP

You turn along the track and head west towards the St Arnaud Range Track. The track weaves in and amongst the trees and it was awesome walking along in the dappled sunlight coming in through the forest canopy. 

Good quality track along the Honeydew Walk, Nelson Lakes NP

Goblin Forest along the Honeydew Walk

Fallen tree debris cleared from the Honeydew Walk

After about 15 minutes walking you come to an area of jumbled glacial erratic's...huge boulders and rock slabs deposited here when some ancient glacier came to a halt and dumped the heaviest debris. The whole of Nelson Lakes NP was formed by and shaped as a result of glaciers evidence of which can still be spotted.

Honeydew Walk: tree growing on a erratic boulder...

 As little as 8 000 years ago there was a huge glacier coming down the Travers Valley carving out Lake Rotoiti on its way west. The other major influence is erosion by both wind, rain action and by the gradual erosive force of the big rivers you find in the park.

The apex of the Honeydew Walk, Nelson Lakes NP

Old glacial debris on the honeydew Track

The apex of the Honeydew Walk is near the old glacial spoil...from here it starts to drop down to a junction with the St Arnaud Range Track before descending further to the main Lakehead Track.

Information about Wasp infestation in Nelson Lakes NP

 The walk through here is elevated over the forest so you can see way off into the forest towards old swamps and silted up kettle lakes. 

Honeydew Track heading for the St Arnaud Range Track

View off the Honeydew Track into the forest

You eventually arrive at the St Arnaud Range Track/ Loop Track coming down off the surrounding peaks. I last travelled up the St Arnaud Range Track way back in 2016 when I did a day walk up to Parachute Rocks nearly 1100 meters above you. 

Honeydew Walk and St Arnaud Range Track junction

The rest of the walk is on the St Arnaud Range Track...

I headed down the St Arnaud Range Track on my way back to the main trail on the route out to Kerr Bay. It was quiet in the forest...I saw about a dozen people the whole time I was walking around the Honeydew Walk even though it is close to the carpark. 

Honeydew/St Arnaud Range Track heading to St Arnaud

I saw and heard a great many birds in this forest including Silver Eye, Fantail, Kaka, Bellbird and Tui. A Kaka flew close by me at one point and sat in a nearby tree noisily protesting at my presence. Kaka numbers are growing right around the country and Nelson Lakes now has a strong population of these forest Parrots. 

DOC 2000 pest trap on the Honeydew Walk

I didn't see any Weka or Pukeko on this trip which is unusual as I often see a few around the Kerr Bay Campsite and on the flats around Lakehead Hut. There may not be any in the area at the moment. 

Information panel about the vision of a restored forest

The end of the Honeydew Walk is a gentle descent down to the main track running along the side of the lake....an easy end to an easy track.

Descending down the Honeydew/St Arnaud Range Track

Near the St Arnaud Range Track and Lakehead Track junction

From the end of the St Arnaud Range Track you turn right and head along the Lakehead Track back to the car park at Kerr Bay. From the track junction you are only 300 meters away from the end of your tramp...

...Western terminus of the Honeydew Track...Lakehead Track

Back onto the main Lakehead Track, Lake Rotoiti

Kerr Bay is just 300 meters away...Lakehead Track

Back on the flat ground next to Lake Rotoiti

There are several excellent views along and up Lake Rotoiti to the Travers Valley which sits at the head of the lake. This is one of my favorite tramping destinations in New Zealand with a number of excellent huts heading up to Travers Pass. This is the path of both the Te Araroa Trail and the Travers -Sabine Circuit. 

View along Lake Rotoiti to the Travers Valley

Mt Robert (1421) from the Lakehead Track

Nearly at the Kerr Bay carpark at Lake Rotoiti

Back at the Kerr Bay entrance to the track

End of the walk at the Kerr Bay Jetty

The Honeydew Walk is a real gem....it travels through some really nice beech forest and would make an ideal intermediate track if you only had an hour or so in St Arnaud. I can thoroughly recommend the walk to you as I really enjoyed the experience. 

Access: Honeydew Walk starts and finishes off the Lakehead Track near St Arnaud. Follow Kerr Bay Road or Lake Road off SH63 (Main Road)  and down to the jetty at Kerr Bay. Numerous tracks start from this location and branch off the main Lakehead Hut Track. There is a track sign about 700 meters from the carpark at the start of Honeydew Track/St Arnaud Range Tracks. 

Track Times: It takes 30-40 minutes (1.5 kilometers) to cover the full circuit of the Honeydew Walk. 

Miscellaneous: High quality track, with multiple interpretation boards along the route. All weather track but potentially muddy after rain.

YouTube: Honeydew Walk