Showing posts with label South Otago. Show all posts
Showing posts with label South Otago. Show all posts

Monday 17 October 2022

Pounawea Nature Walk, Pounawea, North Catlin's: 2nd October 2022

An unexpected gem...Pounawea Scenic Reserve


When Karen and I were organising this trip we had a look at some maps of the areas we would be visiting to highlight some good walks to complete. I noted on the topo map that there was a Scenic Reserve right next to the campground at Pounawea with a track through it. 

Catlin Lake AKA the Catlin River Estuary

I suggested we walk the track not really expecting much but oh wow...it was stunning!!!

Pounawea Scenic Reserve borders the campground

The Pounawea Scenic Reserve is awesome...it is a reserve of near virgin coastal podocarp forest protected since the 1860's and it had some massive native trees in it. There were all the big podocarp species as well as a mix of other less common varieties. 

Typical track through the Pounawea Scenic Reserve

At low tide it is possible to walk along the edge of the Catlin's Estuary on the dry mudflats to make a circuit through the reserve. Unfortunately the tide was in the day we walked the track so this was not an option for us. It would be an interesting alternate to walking back through the forest. 

Low tide at the Catlin River Estuary near the campground

I had never heard of the Pounawea Scenic Reserve before this trip but I was so glad we went and had a look. It was one of the highlights of the trip. 


Exploring Pounawea Scenic Reserve:

We set out for our walk through the Pounawea Scenic Reserve on the afternoon of our second and last day staying at the Pounawea Campground. It was getting on for 3pm so it was a bit dim in the forest as this was just before daylight savings started...


Start of the Pounawea Nature Walk at the campground

Map: Pounawea and Catlins River Estuary

The track starts on the southern edge of the campground and heads south along the Catlin River Estuary for about a kilometer. On the way you need to keep an eye out for Sea Lions who inhabit the forest margin at this time of the year. We didn't see any this trip but the manager at the campground said there were some on the edge of the campground a few days before we arrived. 

Sea Lions inhabit the forest at Pounawea Scenic Reserve

As I said before the forest is amazing...it is a area of near virgin Coastal Podocarp forest and there are some massive trees in the reserve. The first we encountered was a big Kahikatea tree about 40 meters into the forest. Most of the big trees have information plaques at their base so you know what species they are. 


Kahikatea Tree in the Pounawea Nature Walk

...looking into the branches of the Kahikatea tree..

Just up the track as a stand of Rimu trees that were about 30 meters tall and at least a meter around the trunk. They are probably over 400 years old to be that big...

Rimu Tree, Pounawea Nature Walk

Information panel at base of Rimu, Pounawea Nature Walk

Most of the trees in this forest are Kamihi which is a common coastal tree species or native Fuchsia trees which are usually confined to the mountains but seem to grow everywhere in the Catlin's. 

Typical track through the Pounawea Scenic Reserve

...dense undergrowth along the Pounawea Nature Walk....

There were a couple of Kamihi trees about 300 meters from the campground with graffiti etched into the bark. Some of it is dated from the late 1950's and 1960's. I do not approve of people damaging trees like this...I hope someone gave the vandals a good slapping at the time. 

Kamihi is a slow growing tree and these ones are at least a couple of hundred years old. 


Kamihi tree with graffiti, Pounawea Nature Walk

There are some really impressive Fuchsia tree in this reserve. I saw a couple that were 30+ cm's around the trunk and 4-10 meters tall. The only other place I have seen ones this big are up on the Escarpment on the Paparoa Track. They normally do not survive for long as Possums love eating their shoots and leaves...

Native Fuchsia trees in Pounawea Scenic Reserve

Large Fuchsia tree on the Pounawea Nature Walk

About 400 meters down the track is a junction...if you go right the track heads back to the campground down a gravel road. You want to head left and continue through the forest to the edge of the Catlin River Estuary. 

Junction to longer estuary walk, Pounawea Nature Walk

The track heads up over some old forest covered sand dunes and continues heading south along the Catlin River. It climbs and descends these small hills right to the end of the track. 


Heading towards the Catlin River Estuary, Pounawea Scenic Reserve

Just past the track junction is a really large Southern Rata Tree...it is not very tall but the trunk was probably two meters around. There were a few scattered examples of Southern Rata in this forest mostly at this far end of the reserve. 

 Southern Rata tree, Pounawea Scenic Reserve

Looking back to Southern Rata tree, Pounawea Scenic Reserve

There was a bit of wind throw on the track as we had a big wind storm the previous night...there were some branches but mainly a new scattering of fresh leaves all over the track surface. 


Pounawea Nature Walk heading to Catlins River

Matai Trees along the Pounawea Nature Walk

The understory in the reserve was really thick with a whole range of species on display. The bush was growing right up to the track edge as it looks like there is minimal or no management of the forest. 


Bush comes to the edge of the Pounawea Nature Walk

There is a stand of large Kahikatea trees right before you start dropping down to the side of the estuary...the forest here was more open as Kahikatea tend to steal all of the sunlight. Understory plants find it hard to compete with those big trees. 


Area of Kahikatea trees, Pounawea Nature Walk

The track starts to descend down to the edge of the Catlin River past the Kahikatea grove and eventually you will come to the edge of the forest about half way along the estuary of the Catlin River. 


At the Catlins River Estuary end of Pounawea Scenic Reserve

Descending down to the Catlins River Estuary

At the end of the track is the estuary of the Catlin River. There is a big tidal bay here and it is officially known as Catlin Lake even though it ebbs with the tides. You can get right to the edge of the estuary and walk along the edge of the forest in both directions. To your front you can see the sand spit which separates the estuary from the ocean.

View south over Catlin River Estuary

There is a narrow coastal band at high tide...Catlins River Estuary

Looking along the southern side of Catlin Lake

Karen at the Catlin River Estuary

At low tide it is possible to walk along the edge of the estuary on the dry mudflats. There is no marked track but it would be quite easy to make your way back to the campground this way. As you can see the tide was coming in so this was not an option for Karen and I. 


...at low tide you can walk along the tidal estuary...

After five minutes at the rivers edge we set off back down the track to the campgrounds. If you are returning through the forest then you just back walk back along the same track. 


Back into the forest at the Pounawea Scenic Reserve

I noticed this big Kamihi Tree on the way back...it was thick in the trunk. There were probably patches of bush just like this all along the coastline before European settlement. Most of it would be cleared for the timber or burnt to make way for pastures. 


Large Kamihi tree...Pounawea Scenic Reserve

It was an overcast afternoon and getting late so it was a bit gloomy in the forest. We both had head torches just in case we needed them but they were not needed. 


Gathering gloom in the Pounawea Scenic Reserve

Approaching the track junction in Pounawea Scenic Reserve

There are some big Kamihi trees in Pounawea Scenic Reserve

We passed a few people on our return trip but we saw less than five people the whole time we were walking through the trees. 

...we mostly had the forest to ourselves....

The forest was full of native birds and we saw Fantails, Silvereye, Tui, Bellbirds, Wood Pigeon and I heard a Kaka at one point. I captured several Tui singing on one of my video clips. 


There were a lot of birds in the Pounawea Scenic Reserve

Side track to large southern Rata tree...Pounawea Scenic Reserve

There are a series of numbered marker posts near large trees in the reserve so I imagine there is a file somewhere with information about what species you are looking at. I saw no notice about this anywhere near the entrance and there was nothing online so I'm not sure who put these in or when. 


Marker posts through Pounawea Scenic Reserve

Twenty five minutes saw us back at the start of the track and ready to head back to the camper van. It is a real bonus for the camp ground to have this lovely reserve co-located right next to campsites.  I wonder how many people take the opportunity to walk here...


Approaching the start/end of the Pounawea Nature Walk

Back at the start of Pounawea Scenic Reserve

Pounawea Campground is right next to the track

From the end of the track you can just walk right over to your camper, caravan or tent and relax....

Looking across Pounawea Campground, Catlins

 Pounawea Scenic Reserve is worth a visit and I am going to suggest you add it to your itinerary if you find yourself visiting the Catlins. It is only 10 minutes drive off the main highway at Owaka if you are not staying in Pounawea. It was one of the nicest walks we did on this holiday and a welcome surprise. 



Access: From Balclutha take the Southern Scenic Route to Owaka, turn onto Royal Terrace in Owaka and drive to Pounawea settlement. The track starts from the southern edge of the campground at Pounawea.
Track Times: The track is approximately 1 kilometer from Pounawea to the edge of the Catlin River Estuary. It will take 45-60 minutes return.
Miscellaneous: Track starts from the southern edge of the camp ground but no parking is allowed at the track start. Please park outside the campgrounds. Sea Lions can be found on the marsh/coastal side of the walk...please do not disturb and keep your distance as they are notoriously bad tempered. No water or toilets along this track. 
You Tube: Pounawea Nature Walk

Sunday 16 October 2022

Nugget Point Lighthouse Walk, Kokata, South Otago: 3rd October 2022

...A sunny day at Nugget Point...

After visiting the Tunnel Hill Walk near Owaka we drove around to Nugget Point to walk out to the Lighthouse. Nugget Point is roughly 20 kilometers north of Owaka and out closer to the coast. 


Track to Nugget Point Lighthouse

Nugget Point Lighthouse sits far out on a headland and marks a series of offshore rock pillars that reach out into the surrounding ocean. The coastline here is well known for the number of ships which have wrecked over the last 150 years. Lighthouses are dotted right along the coast from the mouth of the Clutha River to Invercargill. 


Nugget Point Lighthouse, Kokata, South Otago

The coastline around Nugget Point is rugged in the extreme with huge 100+ meter sea cliffs, rocky pinnacles and massive waves crashing on the shore. The track is high above the ocean so the views from most points along the walkway are fantastic. 


Rugged coastline at Kokata Point, Catlins

This was the second walk we completed in the Catlins and set the stage for several other visits to lighthouses and cliff top view points along the Southern Scenic Route. 


Along the Nugget Point Walk:

After driving to the Nugget Point carpark we set off to visit the lighthouse. This was a major tourist spot pre Covid so the track quality and amenities here were excellent. 


View to the ocean from Nugget Point Lighthouse carpark

It is roughly 1.5 kilometers to the distant lighthouse and the trip will take you about 20-30 minutes each way. Be sure to take some warm clothing and a rain jacket with you as the track is totally exposed to the elements and it can be cold , windy and wet. Water would also be a good idea as there is none along the track...


Map of the tracks at Nugget Point Lighthouse

Map: Nugget Point/Tokata Point

From the large carpark you are heading uphill to the start of the track down to the Lighthouse. It starts out as an old 4 W/D track to the Lighthouse Keepers Cottage. From the Keepers Cottage it becomes a high quality Great Walk style track. 


The van parked at the carpark for Nugget Point Lighthouse

Relief map of Nugget Point Lighthouse tracks

From the carpark the first place the track will take you is to a viewing platform looking down onto the coast near the Kaimataitai Reef. You walk along a gravel pathway for 200 meters through native bush to the platform visible on the near skyline. 

Track to the Clifftop Viewpoint at Kokata

...on the track to the Clifftop Viewpoint at Nugget Point...

Clifftop viewing platform at Nugget Point

The platform is about 150 meters above sea-level so you have fantastic view along the coast in both directions. the hill sides are covered in short grasses and stunted trees so you can clearly see the rugged rocky zone where the ocean meets the land. 

Coast south of the viewing platform, Kaimataitai Reef, Catlin's

Shags and Petrels nest on the cliffs at Kaimataitai Reef

It was a calm, clear day so visibility went right out to the horizon. To the north you can see the small headland at Kaka Point and right along the coast to the Otago Peninsula nearly 100 kilometers away. 
View north to Kaka Point and Otago Peninsula


Otago Peninsula far to the north of Nugget Point

From the lookout you head along the coast on an old 4 W/D track which takes you to the start of the Nugget Point Track. 

Nugget Point Lighthouse Track at Nugget Point

The track to the lighthouse starts near the turn off to the old Lighthouse Keepers House. The Lighthouse Keepers House is usually empty as all the lighthouses around the coast of New Zealand are automated. It is used by DOC Rangers over the summer and by visiting groups of scientists and researchers working with the local wildlife. 

The quality of the Nugget Point Lighthouse track is excellent

Parts of the Nugget Point Lighthouse are bordered with bush

The Nugget Point Track sidle's along the side of the hills high above the coast...there are spectacular views right out to the lighthouse from all along the track. 


View north to Kaka Point from near Nugget Point Lighthouse

First distant view of Nugget Point Lighthouse

You gradually lose height as you near the lighthouse...the track has to follow the contours of the land to reach the headland the lighthouse sits on. There is a serious drop off on the coast side of the track so keep an eye on where you are going as a fall off here would not be ideal...

Nugget Point Lighthouse sits high above the coast

Nugget Point Lighthouse, Catlins

There are a few spots where weathered bush protects you from the elements but for the most part the track is totally exposed to whatever mother nature decides to chuck at you. For that reason it is best to visit on a calm, sunny day...

View down to the rugged coast near Nugget Point Lighthouse

The tortured, weather beaten look of the trees along the track belies the regular bouts of wind, rain and extreme heat the area is well known for...

Contorted bush along the Nugget Point Lighthouse Track

The Nugget Point Lighthouse track is very exposed

There is a picnic table about halfway to the lighthouse slightly tucked out of the prevailing southerly wind. On a dry, sunny day it would be a picturesque spot to stop for a rest, drink and maybe something to eat. 

Picnic table mid way along Nugget Point Lighthouse Track

The last couple of hundred meters of the track crosses a narrow isthmus with rugged cliffs to both sides. It has protective fences as I imagine it would be quite easy to get blown off the track on a very windy day. The views from here are awesome though...


Closer view of the Nugget Point Lighthouse

To the south is Roaring Bay...well named as the savage sound of the surf crashing ashore roars up the cliffs to the track. 

Roaring Bay, Nugget Point Lighthouse Track

Out to the south east you can see the rock pillars which break the ocean surface at Kokata Point...



Rock pillars in the ocean  at Kokata Point

To the north you are looking down onto a rocky shore far below you with more rock pillars marking the edge of old eroded cliff faces...


Closer view of rock pillars north of  Nugget Point

There is a massive sea cliff behind the bay that reaches to 150 meters above the ocean...it is not vertical but it might as well be. It is eroded rock with very little vegetation on it and provides a safe haven for a variety of sea birds that live along this coast. 


...150 meter high cliffs at Nugget Point...

Nugget Point Lighthouse and the offshore rock pillars

There is a viewing area on the isthmus with a stone plaque set into the ground nearby. It contains a poem about the coast here talking specifically about what you can see on either side of the track. 

Plaque above Roaring Bay, Nugget Point

View north from Nugget Point Lighthouse isthmus

View south from Nugget Point Lighthouse isthmus

From the isthmus it is just over 100 meters to the Lighthouse and the end of the track. The lighthouse looked like it has been recently painted....that must be a job of work. The lighthouse is unmanned but some maintenance would always need to be done in such an harsh and exposed location.

Ridgeline above Roaring Bay, Nugget Point

Nugget Point Lighthouse, Kokata, Catlins

Another angle of the Nugget Point Lighthouse at Kokata

 DOC have built a series of viewing platforms around the front of the lighthouse with spectacular views down to the rock pillars at Kokata Point. You can see for nearly 50 kilometers up and down the coast from here. 


Viewing platform at Nugget Point Lighthouse

...there is seating at the Nugget Point Lighthouse viewpoint...

Nugget Point is the place where the lighthouse is located BUT this is also Kokata Point. Kokata Point is where the rock pillars head out into the Southern Ocean. The pillars are the remains of long eroded headlands and stretch a good kilometer out from the coast. There were a major navigation hazard in times past which is why a lighthouse was constructed here. 

Rock Pillars of Kokata Point, South Otago

Tidal pool, Kokata Point, South Otago

Closer view of rock pillars, Kokata Point

Looking south you can see right down to Waipapa Point not far from Invercargill about 45 kilometers away. Out to sea there is nothing till you reach Antarctica over 5000 kilometers distant...


View south from the Nugget Point Lighthouse

Antarctica is 5000 kilometers due south of Kokata Point

Part of the viewing platform at Nugget Point is canter levered out over the sea cliffs so you can see the beach at Roaring Bay and along the southern side of the isthmus. 


On the viewing platform at Nugget Point Lighthouse

Kokata Point is the home of Seals, Sea Lions and several species of native birds including Titi. Titi are the famous Muttonbird one of the favored foods for the local Iwi. They would hunt them at a certain times of the year and preserve them in their own fat. 

Maori around Bluff are still allowed to gather Titi as it is a customary food source but it is generally not available for sale. I have eaten Muttonbird before and yes it looks and tastes like very oily Mutton so it is well named. 


Rock pillars at Kokata Point, South Otago

Seals and Sea Lions live around Kokata Point

 There are frequent sightings of Dolphins and Whales here as they fish in the deep waters which come close to the coast here (much like near Kaikoura). We only saw one Fur Seal swimming around the rock pillars but there are many seabirds flying around. 


Churning surf around the rocks at Nugget Point

We spent about 20 minutes at the lighthouse before we started to get a bit cold from the brisk breeze. We headed back along the track towards the car park with great views north along the coast and with the walkway clearly visible on the cliff side. 


Heading back along the Nugget Point Track

View down onto Roaring Bay from the Nugget Point Track

I think there would be a walkway here even without the lighthouse...that cliff face just back from the lighthouse is massive and would be a destination in and of itself. 

Narrow point along the Nugget Point Track

Steep drop off on the coast side of Nugget Point Track

You are walking uphill for most of the return walk but the gradient is very gentle so it is not that difficult. It would be a different story in a howling southerly of course...

Actually that is something I would love to see as I think it would spectacular. 

Looking back towards the lighthouse at Nugget Point Track

The rocky coast along the Nugget Point Track

Back on the wider section of the Nugget Point Track

Once back at the apex of the track and on the old 4 W/D road it is all easy downhill to the carpark.


Looking down on the Nugget Point Track carpark

We went to use the facilities before setting off and were perplexed to find a Possum asleep in the toilet. It had tucked itself down behind the toilet bowl which seems like an unenviable location for a snooze but maybe it is bedtime heaven for a Possum. 

I have encountered Possums in huts, toilets and woodsheds before when out tramping...they like the easy life of a man made shelter over living in the bush. That is why you must latch hut doors and shut windows when you leave a hut. 

Possum asleep in the toilet block at Nugget Point

We headed back to the van for some lunch with a lovely view down to the coast from the carpark before heading back down the hill and along the coast to Kaka Point which is a small holiday settlement along the route to Nugget Point. 

Lunchtime view from the van to the ocean

From Nugget Point we headed back to our campsite at Pounawea and set up for the night. We had a very nice location close to the campground amenities and under a couple of mature Totara trees. There were MANY Tui around the campsite and we had a pair right above us serenading each other for nearly an hour. 

 The Britz van at Pounawea Campground

Later in the afternoon Karen and I walked along the Pounawea Nature Walk which starts from the corner of the Pounawea Camp Ground. But that is another story...


Access: From Balclutha...turn off SH1 onto the Owaka Highway. After 7 kilometers turn off onto Kaka Point Road, then Esplanade Road at Kaka Point. Follow this sealed road for 9 more kilometers to the Kokata Point carpark. 
Track Times: The track is approximately 1.5 kilometers long and will take 20-30 minutes one way along the side of the coastal hills. 
Miscellaneous:  The access road is narrow, winding and climbs to the carpark. Nugget Point is exposed to any weather travelling along this coast so make sure you have warm clothing and a rain jacket if attempting the walk. Steep drop off from the track side so keep a close eye on children at all times. Toilets are located at the carpark at the start.