Organising a tramp on a 'Great Walk'

How to plan a trip to one of the Great Walks

I have recently been planing my tramping season for the summer of 2019/2020. I do this every year so I have a list I can tick as I complete trips....if I do not have a list I tend to let things drift and then suddenly its April and I say "...hey....why didn't I do much tramping this year..."

Like duhhhhhhh (as the kids say)....

Jon standing on McKinnon Pass, Milford Track in December 2018

Part of my planning is around the Great Walks. I'm walking two this year, the first is the Routeburn Track in December and the second is the Rakuira Track with Karen in late January. After that I only have the Kepler and the Paparoa/Pike 29 Track and I have finished all of them....then I start something else, like the Rakuira Northern Circuit...Camino de Santiago...GR20 or maybe just finish the Te Araroa (still 2600km of it to walk...)...

Update:Ha, ha, ha...nice one DOC and Minister Eugenie Sage. Now 11 Great Walks, the Humpridge Track is going to become a Great Walk after a $5 million upgrade to the track and huts. I would imagine we are looking at 2021 or 2022 before it opens in that guise. 

I digress...I thought it might be useful to look at the process you need to follow to book a Great Walk.

Choose your Great Walk:

There are 11 Great Walks to chose from, from north to south they are:

Lake Waikaremoana Track, 46 km, 4-5 days, North Island
Tongariro Northern Crossing, 43km, 3-4 days, North Island
Whanganui River Journey, 145km, 3-5 days, North Island (by canoe/kayak)
Abel Tasman Coastal Track, 60km, 3-5 days, South Island
Heaphy Track, 78.4km, 4-6 days, South Island
Paparoa Track/Pike 29 Memorial Track (opens 1 December 2019), 45kms, 3days, South Island
Routeburn Track, 32km, 2-4 days, South Island
Milford Track, 53.5km, 4 days, South Island
Kepler Track, 60km, 3-4 days, South Island
Humpridge Track, 67 km, 3-4 days, South Island
Rakuira Track, 32km, 3 days, Rakuria/Stewart Island

On the Tongariro Northern Circuit back in the early 1990's

Most of these tracks are in the South Island only the top three are in the North Island. This will change over time as there is a long term DOC plan to build more Great Walks and I would imagine some of them will be in the North Island. How about the Round the Mountain Great Walk...it was one of the first National Parks and really lovely country. I would sign up to walk it in a heartbeat.

Choose a track that suits your abilities, fitness level and finances.  

Research the trip:

The first step is to research the be-jesus out of the trip you are planning. You need to find out about: the difficulty of the track, hut/campsite availability, tide charts (for the Abel Tasman), transport options, track safety hazards, accommodation requirements before/after the trip etc. etc.

DOC tide chart for Abel Tasman NP for summer 2019/2020

You need to know all of the relevant information BEFORE you book your hut tickets so that you are walking the track on the right day, right month & in the right conditions. You can never do too much research.....and always remember the 6 P's: Prior Planing Prevents Piss Poor Performance.


Also keep the MSC Outdoor Safety Code  in mind while planning:

Plan your trip
Tell someone your plans
Be aware of the weather
Know your limits
Take sufficient supplies

I will generally start my research with the DOC brochure about the particular Great Walk and also peruse the DOC website. Then I check other online sites, route guides and books about that particular track. I will also talk to other people about the track as you often get great information from fellow trampers that you will never find in a guidebook.

Rakiura Track: the DOC track brochure for this Great Walk

Most of my information will come from the Internet but I do have an extensive collection of tramping books, magazines and other information. I have several good guides specifically about walking the Great Walk tracks. It also helps that I am a Librarian who works in a library full of books on outdoor recreation....massive job perks yeah!!! 

Great Walks of New Zealand by Craig Potton...just one of my extensive library of tramping books

You can check out the Mountain Safety Council (MSC) guide to planning a multi-day tramp. Once you have enough information you can start to book that trip. 

Book the DOC hut space/camp site

The next step is to book the hut/campsites you will use each night while on track. All huts/campsites on a Great Walk must be pre-booked during the summer season (October to March). Outside of these times the huts are first come first served but make sure you check as there are variations across the different tracks. During the summer there will be DOC Rangers at the huts and they will charge you double the price if you do not have a booking.

Rakiura Track: the DOC track brochure for this Great Walk

There is a differential pricing regime for the Great Walks. It was a trial scheme for 2018/2019/2020 but as we all know once a new fee or tax is introduced it is never going away!

If you are a Kiwi expect to pay from $30-$80 per hut night & $10-$20 per campsite, children under 18 are free but still require a booking. International visitors get a reaming...you can expect to pay up to $140 per night for a hut stay on the tracks in Fiordland (adults & children) and you pay $30-40 for campsites on any of these tracks.

The DOC information about the differential price regime for Great Walks

To book the huts etc.you go to the DOC hut booking website set up a DOC account and search for your track of choice.

You will need to set up an account with DOC if you do not have one, as the hut bookings are linked to it. Go to the new customer page, fill in the details and submit. Your account needs to be open for the hut booking to work.

DOC account set up page

Next select the Great Walk you wish to walk and fill in all the relevant information about number of nights (days on the track), number of people, start date, accommodation date and direction if required. Check your details, pay for your hut stay and woo-hoo...you are going to be walking that track.

DOC hut booking system, with a setting for the Great Walks

You are a bloody legend!!!

Organise Transport: to the Great Walk

Some of these walks require you to book transport to the start/end of the track, different tracks will have different requirements. As part of your initial research make sure you check out all the transport requirements for your particular track. 

On the Wanganui River Journey you need to hire a canoe or kayak

In the case of the Milford Track this is an integral part of the whole hut booking process. You book a shuttle to Te Anau Downs, a water taxi from Te Anau Downs to Glade Wharf and another from Sandfly Point to Milford. Finally you need to book shuttle transport from Milford Sound to Te Anau.

DOC use these transport chokepoints as a means of monitoring use of the track as freedom camping is not allowed near the Milford Track.

You cannot board a Milford Track watertaxi if you are not:

1. returning by another boat later in the day, or
2. booked into one of the huts/lodges for the night.

On the watertaxi from Te Anau Downs to Glade Wharf, Lake Te Anau

Sandfly Point, Milford Track: boarding the water taxi to Milford township

On most of  the others you will need to book buses, shuttles and in some cases water taxis to the start of the track. On the Abel Tasman Coastal Track you need to take a watertaxi from Marahau/Kaiteriteri to Totaranui or from Totaranui to Marahau/Kaiteriteri depending on your direction of travel.

Aqua Taxi getting ready to leave Totaranui beach after dropping passengers

Likewise it is a good idea to take a watertaxi to the far side of Lake Waikaremoana and walk back to your car. Most people approach Te Urewera National Park from Wairoa so this means a watertaxi from Onepoto to Hopuruahine Landing. That at least that is what I did when I walked the track back in the early 1990's.

Looking out over Lake Waikaremoana from the Panekiere Bluffs

On the Kepler, Routeburn, Paparoa and Heaphy you need shuttle carriage to the start/finish of the track unless you have someone who can transport you. Both the Routeburn and Heaphy have several hundred kilometers between ends. Tracknet is one of the companies who transport trampers to the southern tracks but there are a number of others as well so check them out.

Tracknet shuttle at the Te Anau DOC office

Look online for more information about transport companies, a good search term would be [great walk name + track transport] ie. [milford track transport]. Numerous services and companies will come up, compare for the best prices and schedule.

Organise Transport: to the start/finish of the track

How are you going to get to the track in the first place...will you drive, take a bus, fly or can someone drop you off. Usually you will need to start from one of the trail towns: Karamea, Marahau/Kaiteriteri, Te Anau, Takaka, Queenstown & National Park are just some of them. 

The beach at Kaiteriteri, Nelson/Tasman District...awesome in summer!

Personally I like to use public transport as much as possible...you can get a cheap Intercity bus fare from Christchurch to Te Anau for as little as $32 NZ dollars if you book in advance. This compares with over $150-$200 to drive my car to Te Anau one way. I'm saving money, saving the environment and I get to look at the nice scenery en route..!

BTW: I like to go have a pie n' pint at the pub right next to the Intercity stop in Gore. You stop there for 45 minutes, youre not driving and its right next to the bus stop. Seems a shame not to...just dont miss the bus.

My Intercity bus to Te Anau for the Milford Track...flash as bro!!!

If you are going to Rakuira you need to either fly at $440 per person return or catch the Bluff to Oban ferry $150 return. Rakuira is 30 kilometres away from the South Island so there is no other way to get there. Once in Oban you are fine as everything is close together but if required there are various transport options on the island.

Oban...the only settlement on Rakuira/Stewart Island

In my experience it is best to book any public transport early i.e. at the same time as the hut bookings so you can catch the best deals. If you wait you may find there are no services left or they will cost you your kidneys and lungs!

Book accommodation if required: Hotels, motels and the YHA

So you have arranged transport to the trail town at the start of your Great Walk...do you need accommodation before or after you walk the track?

 I don't know about your situation but Christchurch is a LOOOONGGGGGG way from some of these places; 600+ kms to Te Anau, 600+ kms to Takaka, 500+kms from Marahau/Kaiteriteri. You are probably going to need to stay somewhere for at least one night.

Jon having a break in Murchison...half way between Christchurch and Motueka

I find that the accommodation in Great Walk trail towns will quickly fill up once hut bookings for the tracks open. You need to book any accommodation at the same time as you book the tracks. I try to conserve money...I don't mind slumming it a bit if it will save me a lot of cash on accommodation. Look at campgrounds (they often have cheap cabins etc.), YHA hostels, backpacker hostels and motels.

Generally booking direct will be cheaper than using Expedia/Trivago or a similar service but check and compare prices to get the best deal. 

Cheap backpackers accommodation in Marahau...now gone upmarket with heinous prices to boot!!!

Some particulars...I usually take the bus to Te Anau so I stay for two nights before starting the southern tracks, it gives me time to get there and organise myself pre-trip. For the Abel Tasman National Park I tend to stay in Motueka...it is only 25 minutes from Marahau and there are more accommodation options there.

For the Heaphy track stay in Nelson or Takaka and catch one of the many shuttles which go to the track end each day. For Rakuira you should stay in Invercargill as it is larger (more accommodation/restaurants etc.) than Bluff and has the airlink to Oban based there.

Out for a stroll along the lakeside, Lake Te Anau, Te Anau township

It is nice to have an extra day at the trail town at the start/end of your trip..hey this might be the only time you are here so why not give yourself enough time to check out the local sights. 

Start a training regime

If you are like me you will tend to do less physical activity over the winter and spring months...resist this and plan a proper training regime to keep your fitness up. Some of these tracks are rated easy but most of them require a moderate level of fitness especially the ones around the Southern Lakes (Kepler, Milford, Routeburn). 

Mt Grey near Amberly, North Canterbury is excellent training for a Great Walk

I do walks after work and in the weekends as often as possible and try to get out for a couple of tramps over the winter season although this is often curtailed by awful weather. Make sure you will be fit enough to comfortably complete the track.

Out walking the Travis Wetlands Track in mid Winter

If you are going to attempt the Paparoa/Pike 29 Track then get working hard right now. It doesn't open until December 2019 but I have seen some photos of the track and it looks challenging. I believe it is always going to be right up at the hard end of the Great Walk scales.

A lot of hil climbing on the Paparoa/Pike 29 Track

The new Humpridge Great Walk is very similar and requires a good standard of fitness to complete as there are two long days and a significant climb to undertake. 

Humpridge Track: 900 meters of altitude gain on the first day..

Organise your tramping gear

The gear you take with you on a great walk will not vary greatly between the different tracks and breaks down into three distinct areas. These are clothing, equipment and food.

Clothing

You need to take the same type and amount of clothing that you would carry on any other multiday tramp. Just because it is a great walk does not mean you can skimp on good quality rain gear and warm clothing.

Jacket and warm merino top on a cold morning, Milford Track in December

We have an oceanic, temperate climate so rain, strong wind, snow, extreme cold and blistering heat are all possible during the summer tramping season. I have literally been walking in 30 degree heat in the morning and trudging through snow in the afternoon the weather can change that quickly.

The amount of gear I usually carry for an 3-7 day over night tramp....

Be prepared for all climatic eventualities and you will be fine:)

....the gear I carried on the Abel Tasman Coastal Track back in 2017

Equipment

Most of the equipment will be standard...the gear you always carry with you tramping. Sleeping kit, clothing, safety, electronics, cooking...stuff to keep you alive and happy.  DOC have a handy What to take on a Great Walk list, have a look at what they recommend.

Here are a couple of things to consider:

• many of the Great Walk huts have gas cookers provided over summer so you can leave the stove and gas canisters at home. Check for availability when planing your trip. Do take a cooking pot, spoon/spork/fork/knife, plate/bowl and a cup for putting your food into...they are not provided!
• if you are booked into a hut you can leave the tent at home cutting some weight. Do take some form of light weight bivy with you as an emergency backup. I carry a SOL breathable bivvy bag
• you might be able to use a smaller pack, I have walked both the Milford and Abel Tasman with my smaller 55l Osprey pack
• track quality is usually better on a Great Walk so you might be able to wear walking shoes rather than boots. Again, check track conditions when planning your trip. 
• most of the Great Walk huts have flush toilets and toilet paper but not all of them. Check if you need to carry this precious material with you....

Clinton Hut, Milford Track: note the gas cookers provided on this track

Food...fuel to keep you going!

 You cannot buy food on a Great Walk..we are not that fancy here in New Zealand. You will need breakfast, lunch, dinner, drinks and snacks for each of the days you are walking. Make sure you take the right kind of food and enough to see you through to the end of the track. Take an extra days food in case you get stuck somewhere.

Four days of tramping food laid out for packing...

Remember food is the fuel that keeps you moving when you are tramping. A couple of days of hard physical activity is not the time for your trendy keto diet....eat large & eat well to keep yourself going.

Here are a couple of other things to consider:

• Do take an extra days food as people often get stuck in Great Walk huts due to weather or other natural hazzards. It is no fun facing a forced hut rest day if you are hungry...trust me I know!
• All food should be lightweight, compact, easy to prepare and wholesome...you need a mix of carbohydrates, protein, sugars, fats and oils for good health and energy.
• Don't take too much food...it is super heavy. A good average is between 600-750gms of food per person/per day. 
• keep hydrated....drink water often and in volume. Generally the water available in the huts and shelters can be used without treatment but I'm cautious so I always use chlorine tablets. I would rather drink weird tasting water than catch a bug. Fill your water bottle(s) every chance you get...
• don't forget to take tea, coffee, fruit juice powders etc. Drinking a lot of unflavoured water gets tedious and its always nice to have a delicious brew when you get to the hut
• Alcohol is allowed in DOC huts but don't get carried away. The other people sharing the hut with you do not want to deal with your drunken antics. Red wine is good...
• if you can stomach them, freeze dried meals are custom made for a Great Walk. Quick, light, tasty and easy to make. That said half the hut was salivating over the soft fluffy rice and homemade vegetable curries a Japanese man was eating on the Milford Track. By gawd it looked good....... your choice.

Outdoor Gourmet: Venison and Rice Noodle Stirfry...very tasty freeze dried meal!!

If you require additional information have a look at my post about food for a four day tramp, check the internet (lots of information) or look on the MSC and DOC websites.

General considerations

Some of these tracks are dangerous out of season so only plan a trip at that time if you are a steely eyed, hard arsed bush pig with navigation knowledge, avalanche assessment abilities and fantastic bush craft skills. Im not joking....3-10 people a year die walking Great Walks out of season...don't be one of them!

Routeburn Track in winter, photo from Stuff website

Some Great Walks are quickly booked out, especially the Milford/Kepler/Routeburn tracks so you need to check on availability before arranging transport etc as the walk may be full on the days you want. Generally you want to be booking your hut spots when they open for the new season in mid June...like right now!!!!

Hut bookings for Milford Track, December 2019...yep its totally full!

If you are walking the Abel Tasman Coastal Track take your swimwear AND a pair of footwear for the tidal crossings. The water is heavenly during the summer in the Abel Tasman...swim every day! There are a lot of tidal crossings on this track and that sand (while beautiful) is like walking across powdered glass as it is high in silica.

Totaranui Beach....beautiful but that sand is like powdered glass!!!

Trampers on the tidal crossing at Torrent Bay, Abel Tasman Coastal Track

I use a pair of $20 dollar knock off Crocs from the Wharehouse...cheap, light weight, fashion forward...they make great hut shoes!

Get walking.........

Cool...you have organised your Great Walk tramp...now wait for that date, tell someone where you are going, grab your gear and get walking that track....I hope you have a lot of fun!

Jon at the start of the Abel Tasman Coastal Track, Totaranui Campground

I might see you out there sometime...

Historic Tramps: Great Walks of my past....

Historic tramps from pre 2012...the Great Walks

I am writing this post in 2021 at the end of my three decade journey to walk all of the Great Walk tracks we have here in New Zealand. I have been steadily working through the South Island Great Walk tramps since 2012 and am off to tramp the last (Kepler Track) in late March 2021.

The Paparoa Track was my penultimate Great Walk in February 2021.....

I actually tramped/rafted four of the Great Walks prior to 2012 which was when I started back into tramping so I thought it might be useful to write a post about those historic trips.

North Island Great Walk Tracks...

I was in the New Zealand Army from 1988 to 1992 and spent nearly two years of that time at the School of Signals either long term or for short 2-3 month courses. As anyone who has ever been to Waiouru will attest there is bugger all to do there. 

Waiouru is a remote Central North Island settlement...

We had to make our own fun which usually meant PT or drinking but we did do a bit of tramping from time to time. 

 

The main drag through Waiouru itself.....yep!!!

This is when I walked or rafted all three of the existing Great Walks in the North Island.

BTW: the School of Signals moved to Linton Military Camp just outside Palmerston North so todays Sig's at least have a moderate sized city to call home.

The Tongariro Northern Circuit: 1988(?)

I walked the Tongariro Northern Circuit in the late 1980's while stationed at Waiouru Training Camp. A group of us walked the track as part of a supposed communications exercise we were running but really one of the Sergeants was a hunter/tramper and he wanted to have a go at the track!!!

On the Tongariro Northern Circuit, Central North Island

We got to do a lot of good stuff in the Army because an Officer or Sergeant had a hankering for some outdoor adventuring...like the time we walked overland from St Arnaud to Hanmer or the time we went fishing for a couple of days in the Marlborough Sounds, but those are other stories...

On the Tongariro Northern Circuit, Central North Island

The Circuit back then was very, very quiet...it was early autumn and the weather was getting colder but mostly the track was hardly known outside Kiwi tramping circles. I'm not joking we saw less than 10 people the whole time and that included the day we walked over what is now the Tongariro Crossing. We saw five (...yes 5...) people the day we walked the Crossing....in 2019 you might be sharing the track with up to a 1000 or more on any given day. 

Tama Lake, On the Tongariro Northern Circuit, Central North Island

The huts were old but serviceable, the tracks 'rough as' in places but the scenery was the same as you see today. I remember being thirsty most of the time...it is hot on the Circuit when the sun is out and good water sources are scarce...only at the huts. 

Lunar landscape on the Tongariro Northern Circuit, Central North Island

I took my camera with me on this trip, I had black and white film in my camera so that is why the pictures are black and white. I didn't take many photos, maybe the film was almost finished...I cant remember all these years later. I think black and white is the right medium for this track...it brings out the beautiful starkness of that volcanic terrain. 

On the Tongariro Northern Circuit, Central North Island

All of this track is beautiful in its own kind of way but my favorite section was on the eastern side of the mountains with that view out over the Desert Road. You had a bit of grass and some trees to break up the volcanic rock.

I really like the weird and wonderful forms a volcanic field holds...sharp edges and weird shapes. You can see why they practice Mars landings in volcanic areas. 

On the Tongariro Northern Circuit, Central North Island

It is a magnificent and unique track but I don't know if I would call it a Great Walk. It has a bit too much rock, sand and dust for my liking, I prefer thick forest really. That said I recommend it readily when people ask me about good tramping tracks in the North Island.

 I'd like to walk the Tongariro Crossing again but I think I would hate the damn crowds it now attracts. Maybe when I get to finishing the Te Araroa Trail..it goes right over the middle section of this track.

8/10 on the Jon tramp-o-meter.

Lake Waikaremoana Track (1989...?)

This was the first 'civilian' tramp I went on....it was while I was in the military but was not an Army organised trip. I was in Waiouru for three months doing some course or another.  A group of us decided to go tramp around Lake Waikaremoana one long weekend because one of the guys was from up that way and told us how cool it was. 

Korokoro Falls, Lake Waikaremoana Track: Image from New Zealand.com website

We walked the track anti clock wise so the Panekire Bluffs were at the end of the trip. Memories of the time are of the feeling of dark permanence in Te Urewera....that forest is ancient and dense, I wouldn't be surprised to see a Moa walk out of the bush and cackle "....how are yer maaateeee...!!!".

You can stand on the high bluffs around the lake and see nothing but bush and forest out to the horizon. I imagine that is what all of New Zealand looked like before humans arrived. 

Panekire Bluffs: Image from DOC website

The quality of the track was excellent and while some of the huts were older they were obviously well loved. It was a magnificent experience and I'm just sorry more people don't have the time to go there. Getting to the lake is the problem it is remote and the approach roads are gravel so long, hot and dusty.

While access is a curse it is is also a salvation...you have to REALLY WANT TO VISIT this locale so your normal tourism hordes are absent even now.

The modern Waiopaoa Hut: Image from Maipo website

I have heard that the track/huts have deteriorated since it was handed back to the local Iwi...I cannot comment on this but if true it is a real shame. This would be the perfect place for a genuine Maori take on the outdoors and show the deep relationship between the people and the land in Aotearoa.  

Typical North Island forest along the Lake Waikaremoana Track:Image from Shoesyourpath website

This is by far one of the finest tramping trips I have ever been on...in my top five of all time.

It is absolutely a 'Great Walk'...go walk it folks!!!

+10/10 on the Jon Tramp-o-meter.

Wanganui River Journey (1989)

Another hair brained scheme....same Army course (we also went and tramped in the Kaimanawa's around this time...). We had a free weekend so we borrowed some gear from the Outdoor Pursuits Centre at Waiouru and went and rafted down the Wanganui River. We went into the river up near National Park and came out just south of Jerusalem a couple of days later.

Early section of the Wanganui River: Image from Travel Alphas web site

The Wanganui River is sacred to the local Iwi, there are many Pa sites along the river as this was a major locus of Maori settlement right through history. It also featured heavily in the New Zealand Wars as it has always been a transportation link to the remoter parts of the Central North Island. 

Drawing of a typical fortified Maori village or Pa

Today most people would kayak or canoe the Wanganui as those craft are more suitable but back in those days most journeys were done by raft. This wasn't a Great Journey as they now style it, just a trip adventurous outdoor nutter's had a bash at.

Canadian style canoe on the Wanganui river

The only people we saw were a group of hunters at John Coull Hut and a few jet boats tooling up and down the river. Apart from them we had the river to ourselves...

The modern iteration of John Coull Hut: Image from DOC website

It was very peaceful drifting down the river, exploring the caves, side streams and points of interest and camping at the end of each day.  I remember us talking about going to the Bridge to Nowhere but not having the time to actually do so. I also remember the dozens of cans of beers ( I had two dozen just for myself...) we each took with us as vital supplies, empties rolling around in the bottom of the raft. 

The famous Bridge to Nowhere, Wanaganui River, Central North Island

When it is dry the Wanganui River is gentle and deep with the occasional grade 1-2 rapid, but if it rains in the headwaters it can become an angry raging beast. We had three days of beautiful sunny weather so we saw the nice face. You don't want to be down there when the bad face comes out.

Flood in the Upper Wanganui River

It is wild, remote wilderness along most of the river...dense bush, high bluffs and deep dank side streams cutting down through the mudstone. What it reminded me of was the movie Deliverance...at any moment I expected a couple of dungaree clad good ole boys to come on down out t'holla and say "....yer gotta purty mouth...."

The verdant Wanganui River Valley: Image from Visit Ruapehu website

I know this has become a bit of a tourist trap with the Te Araroa walkers and massed organised trips down the river but I think every Kiwi should add it to their agenda. If I was to do the journey again I would walk up to the Bridge to Nowhere and stop at Jerusalem and the Maori Village (Tieke Kainga) as they are an integral part of the story of this river.

Easy graded rapids on the Wanganui river: Image from Travel Alphas web site

This is the only Great Walk on a river so straight away it is unique, the area is deeply steeped in history and has a wild remote feeling you do not find in many places anymore. You would not look out of place dressed in flax and poling a waka down this river it has that ancient kind of feeling. It is definitely worth a visit...add it to the bucket list.

BTW: the name of the river is spelt both Wanganui and more correctly Whanganui...the local Iwi use both names for their Awa.

8/10 on the Jon Tramp-o-meter (only because I do not like the water that much)...

South Island Great Walk Tramps...

My permanent posting while in the Army was in Christchurch first at Addington Barracks (...great place...) and later at Burnham Army Camp. We got to walk the Heaphy Track after one of the exercises we held near Karamea...

Heaphy Track: 1990(?)

 I was stationed at Addington Barracks, Christchurch from 1988-1990...the unit I belonged to was 3 Signals Squadron. We used to frequently ticky-tour around the country doing military exercises usually on the West Coast, near the Southern Alps or around Tekapo. The big multi battalion exercise we did in 1990 was up near Karamea close to the West Coast end of the Heaphy Track.

Gouland Downs swing bridge:  Image from Heaphy Track.com website

One of the many streams crossing Gouland Downs:Image from Heaphy Track.com website

Towards the end of the exercise we were all sitting around waiting to go back to Christchurch when a message went around asking if anyone wanted to walk the Heaphy Track. Obviously we all said yes so the next day several groups of us were flown by helicopter to points along the track by the New Zealand Airforce.

My group consisting of myself and the five other Signalers and about five infantry guys (hard to recall but you could get a 10 man squad on an Iroquois helicopter...) got dropped at Perry Saddle Hut. We walked back to Kohaihai from there...

Bridge over the Kohaihai River:Image from Heaphy Track.com website

I loved it.....what I remember is the varied terrain: thick native bush, the expansive tussock covered Gouland Downs, steep descents into verdant river valleys and that awesome walk through the Nikau Palm groves from the Heaphy River to Kohaihai.

We mostly had the huts to ourselves with a few Kiwi trampers chucked into the mix....no European tourist crowds in those days. We were eating Army ration packs and someone managed to slip a bottle of Rum into their pack. We had one day of torrential rain but the other three days were beautiful as only the north west of the South Island can be.

I thoroughly enjoyed the experience. 

View down to Heaphy River: Image from Jack Austin website

Later in the early 1990's my girlfriend and I walked into Perry Saddle Hut from the road end near Brown Hut. We stayed for the one night and then walked back out again as she was not too keen on this tramping lark and did not want to walk the whole track.

Start of Heaphy Track near Brown Hut: Image from Heaphy Track.com website

Is the Heaphy a "Great Walk"....by damn...yes it is...my favorite section is between Lewis Hut and Heaphy Hut, as you wind down to the river and coast. My favorite hut was the old Heaphy Hut because we had such a good night there. We made a massive bonfire on the beach and then went back to the hut and played cards and drank rum laced tea and coffee for about four hours.

Everyone should walk this track, I know it has transport difficulties (300+ km's separate the two ends...) but the problems are worth over coming for the fun you will have on the track.

Heaphy Track, West Coast Section: Image from Jack Austin website

I am absolutely going to walk this track again someday..... soon I hope!

+10/10 on the Jon tramp-o-meter. 

I've done a couple of other historic tramps over the years and will be writing a couple of posts about them eventually. For trip reports on the other Great Walks like the Milford, Routeburn and Rakuira have a search of the blog from 2016 onwards...