Waiuta Historic Gold Mining Town, 12 November 2021

 A visit to the historic mining town of Waiuta...

I was booked to stay for two non consecutive nights at Waiuta and one night at the Big River Hut but as I alluded to in my last post the very heavy rain I encountered here meant I was unable to complete my plan. Instead I spent two nights at Waiuta Lodge and visited the old town while I was there. 

On the gravel Waiuta Road for six kilometers....

The road into Waiuta is long, narrow and winding gravel but it was nowhere as bad as I thought it was going to be. The actual gravel section of the road is only six kilometers long and although care is needed it would be accessible to most vehicles including caravans and campers. Just drive slowly and keep your wits about you...keep your lights on as a warning to oncoming traffic!!!

An old 1920's water trough on Waiuta Road

I spent two nights at Waiuta Lodge which is a DOC backcountry hut with lots of modern conveniences like hot water, power and showers. It is about 700 meters away from the remaining buildings at Waiuta and makes an excellent base of operations for visits to the nearby historic town and track network. 

Waiuta Lodge is close to the old mining town of Waiuta

The area around Waiuta is a series of low rolling hills, ridges and flats that was once home to the most profitable gold mine in New Zealand. The town had over 600 permanent residents at its peak and was a fully self contained community with stores, banks, churches, a Police station, bars and other support services. There were several streets of houses both around the mine itself and down along Bottom Road. 

There are only six original buildings left here but there are a multitude of old mining relics, mine equipment and sites to explore including mine shafts, mine tunnels, mining buildings and such things as an old aerial bucket system. 

Looking across to the Blackwater Mine from Waiuta Lodge

On my first day at Waiuta I spent the afternoon walking around the old town precincts and looking at the historic remains that exist there. Lets go have a look around the town...

On the Waiuta town walk:

I set out on my walk around the town of Waiuta from the Waiuta Lodge...I parked my car there and after some lunch set out to explore the town. It takes around 45 minutes return to walk from the Lodge to the information kiosk and back along the circuit Bottom Road-Top Road-New Road...

Waiuta in a photo from the 1940's...Blackwater Mine to center...

Map: Waiuta road network...

The ground is most flat as the old town was built on the flatter sections of land in the area. The first building you pass is Gills Cottage next to the Lodge...it is maintained by the Friends of Waiuta. It was the private residence of the Gill Family and has served as an out of the way holiday bach until quite recently. It has now been fully restored by the Friends of Waiuta...

Gills Cottage is next to the Waiuta Lodge

From there you continue along Bottom Road to the entrance to Waiuta and a small information kiosk located on Top Road. It has a map of the environs of the old town and some information about the area but the main information kiosk is located closer to the Blackwater Mine shaft. 

DOC information kiosk at the entrance to Waiuta

From the kiosk at the entrance to Waiuta I walked down the Top Road to the old workings around the Blackwater Mine shaft. This was the first of two shafts sunk down to the quartz deposits that underlay the whole Waiuta area. 

The quartz was raised to the surface and crushed to recover the gold within it at the Snowy river crushing plant just to the south of Waiuta.

Underground map of the Blackwater Mine at Waiuta

There is an old miners bathing shed at the mine shaft and the foundation of the old power house that provided power for the elevator in the shaft. There is still a tall chimney stack and the huge boiler in the building where the hot water was stored before use. 

Old bathing facilities at the Blackwater shaft head, Waiuta

The foundation of the powerhouse at Blackwater mine at Waiuta

Next to the bathing building is the actual Blackwater Mine shaft...it is nearly 600 meters deep (1850 feet) and was the first and main shaft for the mine. The area is fenced off as DOC do not want people falling in as it is not covered over like the nearby Prohibition Mine shaft is.

 The Blackwater and Prohibition shafts were the two deepest in New Zealand with the Prohibition shaft reaching nearly 900 meters deep of which 300 meters was below sea level...

The Blackwater mine shaft was nearly 2000 feet deep

You can still see the shaft from right around the perimeter of the fenced area.  At one time there was a tall winding tower above the shaft but this has been removed in the 1950's. It was recycled to some mine workings outside Reefton which is where a lot of the ex residents of Waiuta moved to when the mine closed...

Closer view of the Blackwater Mine shaft at Waiuta

Next to the Blackwater Shaft was an office and the bowling pavilion. The residents of the time took some effort and care to flatten out the slag heap next to the mine shaft and turned it into a bowls green. It is just one of the many sporting facilities the townspeople had available...

The Bowling Pavilion and clubrooms at Waiuta

The old School House information kiosk at Waiuta

I walked along the edge of the huge pile of mine spoil (...called Molloch by the miners...I don't know why...I saw a sign at the mine site...) which surrounds the mine shaft. They shifted a lot of rock here as the spoil pile is huge...later a horizontal tunnel was cut to the Snowy Battery site and the mine spoil was taken out that way. 

Waiuta Lodge from the slag heap at Blackwater Mine

All this is waste rock from the Blackwater Mine at Waiuta

From the Blackwater Mine shaft I walked over to the main information kiosk via the Gold Discovery Loop Walk which I will cover in a separate post. It is a short 10 minute walk around this track to the old swimming pool and the fenced off entrance to the original mine tunnel built when they were exploring the potential of the mine in the 1920's-1930's. 

The area around Reefton is full of historic mining relics....

The old School house was demolished some time after the mine closed in 1951 but the foundations were used by DOC in the 1980's as a location to build a new information kiosk at. There are some photos of the old buildings which once occupied this section including a BNZ bank and the school. 

The information kiosk in Waiuta on the old school foundations...

The covered structure has a number of interesting photos of the town as well as a wealth of information about the history, people and environment around Waiuta. There are also a couple of covered benches located here so you can sit out of the weather when you visit. 

Waiuta information kiosk: lots of panels....

Waiuta information kiosk: Blackwater Mine...

Waiuta information kiosk: photos of Waiuta in the 1930's

Directly opposite the School house information kiosk is the last house that was occupied at Waiuta. The house was once the resident Policeman's house and later belonged to Tim White. White was born in Waiuta in 1921 and used the cottage as a bach for most of his life. Many of the photographs of the town in the 1950's were taken by him and adorn the many information panels about the town. He passed away in 2011....

One of the six existent buildings at Waiuta...Tim Whites house

From here you walk back to the Waiuta Lodge down New Road and Bottom Road passing a couple of old buildings along the way. One is Rimu Cottage that the Friends of Waiuta are currently in the process of clearing and restoring. The other is the fully restored historic Barbershop about 40 meters further down the road. 

The historic Rimu Cottage at Waiuta...under restoration!!

The old Barbershop at Waiuta township...restored

There is a track near here which goes down to the Snowy Battery site which is a 2-3 hour return loop track to the old quartz crushing plant. I didn't manage to get down there but it is on my plan for my next visit to Waiuta...

I also passed the old rugby field between Waiuta Lodge and the Blackwater Mine site. According to the information panels the Waiuta rugby team was quite competitive and often played games against other teams from the surrounding area. With over 600 people living here at its peak they probably had plenty of players to choose from.

Waiuta had several sports facilities...including a rugby field

Photo of the old rugby clubrooms at Waiuta in the 1950's

As you would have seen in my last post I spent two nights staying at the Waiuta Lodge. Waiuta Lodge is a DOC owned 24 bunk hut but it is set up like a base camp facility so it has a lot of amenities as it is often used by school groups, tours and large tramping parties.

Waiuta Lodge was the old hospital site for the town of Waiuta

 I have written a separate post about the hut but it was a great place to stay and I'm sure I will return here at some time in the future. 

Interior of the Waiuta Lodge is warm and accommodating.

Waiuta is an interesting place to visit and even though it is a bit out of the way there is a very acceptable place to stay at the bookable Waiuta Lodge. There is a wealth of history here and I still have a number of tracks to visit in the area so I am sure you will see me back some time over the next couple of years. 

Access: From Reefton head south for 21 kilometers along SH 7 towards Greymouth. Turn onto Waiuta Road at Hukarere and follow Waiuta Road to the lodge. 

Hut Details: Waiuta Lodge: Serviced, 24 bunks, wood burner, electric lights/heating/cooking, water from aquifer, wood shed, toilet/shower block

Miscellaneous: On the DOC hut booking system, must be booked for overnight visit. Close to the historic mining town of Waiuta. The Waiuta Road is a winding, narrow gravel road take care at all times. 

Hokitika, V of V: Lake Mahinapua, Jum Michel Track: 24th September 2021

 Bush trekking at Lake Mahinapua...

The second track of the day and last walk I did while we were at Lake Mahinapua was the Jum Michel Track. The Jum Michel Track is a 45 minute 2.5 kilometer loop with part of the track through the forest and the return leg along one of the two access roads into the Lake Mahinapua Scenic Reserve. 

Swimmers Beach and Jum Michel Tracks start at the same place...

Karen had a sore foot as she is still recovering from her bike accident so I walked this track by myself. The track is through a section of old growth Podocarp forest and along with some huge native trees there is a thick and varied understory along the track.

...the track is in old growth Podocarp forest...

Lake Mahinapua Scenic Reserve is a great place to visit when you are at Hokitika. It is only 12 kilometers south of the town and there are a multitude of walking tracks as well as the lovely lake, a dock and camping ground. The West Coast Treetop Walkway is just five minutes down the road so you could easily fill a couple of days exploring the immediate area....

The Jum Michel Track ends on the Lake Mahinapua access road...

Lets have a look at the last walk I did on our campervan trip to the West Coast...

Jum Michel Track, Lake Mahinapua:

As I said Karen was having problems with her foot so she stayed at the camper van and had some coffee while I went and walked the Jum Michal Track. The track starts from the same place as the Swimmers Beach Walk with a track junction about 100 meters along the Swimmers Beach Track. From here it is 30 minutes to the other end of the track down by SH6....

The junction of the Jum Michel Track and Swimmers Beach Walk

Map: Track network around Lake Mahinapua

The track goes through an rea of remnant Podocarp forest along a well maintained track made up of dirt, gravel and boardwalk sections. It is an easy flat track suitable for most people but it is not wheel chair compatible. The kids would like this one but keep them in sight and on the track as the bush is super dense...easy to get lost in!!!

Heading along the Jum Michel Track, Lake Mahinapua

It was darker along the start of the Jum Michel Track

You have alternate areas of light open forest and dark dense forest depending on the type of trees you are walking through. It gets progressively lighter and more open the closer you get to the main highway. There are a couple of small streams to cross but they are all bridged so this is an all weather walk.

The Jum Michel Track is gravel, boardwalk and bush track....

A tree dwelling grass along the Jum Michel Track

The photo below gives you a bit of an idea of just how thick the bush is along this track...it would be super easy to get lost if you strayed off the track. This is a coastal Podocarp forest so the floor of the bush is wet with lots of small ponds, swamps, bogs and wetlands. 

...an idea of how thick the bush is off the Jum Michel Track...

The area has small hills and hollows as I would imagine it is old sand dunes under the forest detritus....the track goes up and down over these small undulations for the length of the walk. None of them would be more than a couple of meters high....

Jum Michel Track: nice play of shadow and light...

There are a couple of low laying track sections that could be under water after heavy rain but you should be able to keep walking if you can see the path under the water. Here is one such area below...

Jum Michel Track: sections of the track are inundated...

About half way along the track you pass over a section of boardwalk...this is in a wetland area surrounded by Kahikatea trees and the shallow water is covered with typical native wetland species...grasses, flax, worts, moss and other small moisture loving plants...

Boardwalk over Kahikatea swamp...Jum Michel Track

Jum Michel Track: the ground is wet and boggy...

After the wetland the Podocarp forest returns with Miro, Matai and Totora as the main species you will see. There were also a few Mahoe trees with their characteristic large broad leaves and leaf skeletons on the track. It is more open at this end of the forest so there is more light shining through the canopy onto the floor of the forest.

Typical section of the Jum Michel Track, Lake Mahinapua

Most of the trees support epiphytes and other plants...

There are a lot of those DOC tree species information panels along the track which gives you some key facts about the flora you are passing. This is a great way to gain some familiarity with the trees in our forests so make sure you have a look as you walk by...

There are main species panels along the Jum Michel Track

Jon on the Jum Michel Track at Lake Mahinapua

Ferns and smaller plants come right to the track edge...

Podocarp forest is awesome to walk through as it has such a variety of plants to see...the West Coast is a temperate zone so it often resembles the jungle you might find in much warmer parts of the world. The trees will often be covered in moss, vines, epiphytes and other canopy dwelling plants which all add to its rich fullness...

Old mans beard on trees along the Jum Michel Track

The typical variety in a Podocarp forest...many species!!!

Large Podocarp trees along the Jum Michel Track

I encountered a curious Weka at the western end of the walk...I heard it just off the track and stopped for a while and watched it nose around through the ferns looking for food. It was happy enough if I stood still but took off whenever I moved...good survival instincts buddy. 

I decided to call him Wodderwick......

A Weka I encountered on the Jum Michel Track

...Wodderwick is just minding his own business...

There are some huge Miro/Matai trees in this forest...easily some of the biggest I have seen anywhere. They are an elegant tree and much favored by birds as they have small edible fruits in their canopy. Miro/Matai must be great timber trees as they are tall and straight and the wood has a lovely lustre and smell to it. 

They other place I have seen big Miro/Matai is along the Paparoa Track up above the Pororairi Gorge. There were some huge ones in the forest in that area... 

Large Miro Tree, Jum Michel Track

...some information about Miro Trees...

The forest thins out and the sound of cars becomes louder as you get closer to the end of the walk down by SH6. The trees at the end of this forest are smaller species like Pakatea, Mahoe, Hinau and large shrubby trees like Pigeonwood, Mahoewao and Lemonwood. 

The forest thins at the ocean end of the Jum Michel Track

Here I am near the end of the Jum Michel Track

The last 100 meters of the track parallels SH6 heading south and once you turn the last corner you can see right down to where the Jum Michel Track exits onto the Lake Mahinapua Reserve access road. 

Last section of the Jum Michel Track, Lake Mahinapua

Jum Michel Track...back at the access road!!

Highway end of the Jum Michel Track at Lake Mahinapua

From here you can turn about and walk back the way you came or take one of the two access roads back into the Lake Mahinapua Reserve carpark and campsite. It is roughly a kilometer back along the road and it is quite a nice finish to the walk as the road is flanked on both sides by thick native bush. 

...entrance to Lake Mahinapua Scenic Reserve...

The Jum Michel Track heads back along the access road...

Dense bush lines both sides of the Lake Mahinapua access road...

The access road will dump you out next to the Lake Mahinapua campsite and you can walk around the edge to the carpark and other facilities. It would probably be a decent place to camp or stop at for a night or two in your camper van...lots of space and trees to shade you from the sun and worst of the weather.

 It is often busy here at Christmas and over the summer holidays...or so I have been told.

Lake Mahinapua Campsite, Lake Mahinapua

Heading to the Lake Mahinapua carpark..

Karen was setting out to collect me as I walked back into the carpark and we headed back up to Hokitika for some well deserved dinner after a long day of exploring the area around Lake Mahinapua. We both enjoyed it here...it was a lovely day.

Bruce was parked at the Lake Mahinapua carpark

 It was well worth the return visit to Lake Mahinapua as we managed to knock of another couple of walks and seeing the Kotuku/White Heron was awesome. That dear reader is the end of our camper van adventures for this year...it was a lot of fun and using a larger and more comfortable camper van was a great idea. We are already thinking about our next escapade and we thought a trip around the bottom of the North Island might be on the books for 2022. 

Access: Lake Mahinapua Reserve is located off SH 6 approximately 10-12 km's south of Hokitika. The entrance is signposted and is directly opposite the Lake Mahinapua Tavern. Swimmers Beach and the Jum Michel Tracks both start from the northern edge of the carpark. 
Track Times: The Swimmers Beach Walk takes 20-30 minutes return to walk.
Miscellaneous: There is a toilet block located at Lake Mahinapua Reserve and the nearby campsite has water and a BBQ shelter. The track will be wet and muddy after rain but should be fine to walk in shoes most of the time. There is no beach at Swimmers Beach as the forest has reclaimed the land..leave your togs at home....