Anti Crow Hut Tramp: 3rd October 2015

Tramping in the Upper Waimakariri Valley

My first tramp of the 2015/16 summer season is a jaunt into Anti Crow Hut towards the head of the Waimakiriri River. I am looking to go further up valley; visit Carrington Hut and its environs so this is a bit of a recce trip.The track in is easy walking, although tiring as you are walking on gravel fan's for most of the time.

Crow Valley, Mt Rolleston from Turkey Flat

Heading to Anti Crow Hut

It is surprising but I have never been up to the head of the Waimakiriri before, even though it is considered by many as the spiritual home of Canterbury climbing and tramping. The old Carrington Hut was one of the first trampers hut built by the CTC way back in the 1890's.

Back in the 1960's-70-80's the upper valley would have been full of climbers and trampers who came up on the Friday night train. They would be making for places like Carrington Hut, Mt Rolleston, Waimakariri Falls the Three Passes tramp and the Upper Rakaia river.

It is much quieter these days.

Sunrise from Porters Pass on SH 73

SH73: On the road to Arthurs Pass

My original idea was to cross the Waimakiriri from the car-park at Klondyke Corner and walk up to the hut using the standard route to Carrington Hut. The river was high, there has been a lot of snow this year and the water levels are still too deep and swift to allow individual crossings of the river.

Instead I used O'Malleys Track which is the name for the flood track running along the bottom of Bealey Spur.

From SH 73 to Anti Crow Hut via Turkey Flat

Don't park your car at this car park overnight, it is the worst spot in Arthurs Pass NP for car thefts & break-ins. It is fine for a day trip as you are back before dark, which is when most break ins occur.

O'Malleys Track car park, Arthurs Pass NP

Start of O'Malleys Track to the Waimakariri Valley

The track starts off by climbing up high to get above a gorge running down this side of Bealey Spur, total height gained would be 80 meters then you sidle the side of the spur for about 45 minutes - 2 kilometres.

O'Malleys Track: Initial climb to sidle track (about 80 meters)

There are occasional views out across the river towards Klondyke Corner on the valley flats opposite.

Klondyke Corner from the O'Malleys Track

Initially the track is benched with a nice camber and surface, this quickly degenerates into your  standard DOC back country track. There is a bit of windfall on the track, no doubt damage caused by the heavy winter storms earlier this year.

O'Malleys Track: Initial sections are benched...

Then turn into a mud scramble!

You can just make out a couple of camper vans on the far bank of the river, this is the access point if you want to attempt a crossing of the Waimakariri River. It saves about an hour but is much more dangerous than just walking along the flood track. Literally dozens of people have drowned in the Upper Waimakariri...it is not to be trifled with.

Tourists camping at Klondyke Corner, from O'Malleys Track

After about 45 minutes you get close to the end of the sidle, and start heading down to Turkey Flats.

Approaching Birch Nook on O'Malleys Track

Below is the only significant side stream you cross on this track, doesn't look like much really. Then you notice the piles of drift wood debris around the trees near the river banks. I measured one, it was up to my knee so about 50 cm deep on the river bank which is 70-80 cm above the stream bed.
That's waist deep water on me, and I'm not short!

Only major stream that must be crossed, note flood debris!

Once you get to the end of the flood track the upper valley opens up before you.

O'Malleys Track: Heading down onto Turkey Flat

Turkey Flat is a large debris fan from Jordan Stream, it takes about an hour to walk across it mainly due to the gravel you are walking on for most of that time. It is big lumpy stuff brought down by the streams in the area. It is awkward to walk on and you keep wobbling around.

Mt Bealey across the Waimakiriri valley

View back to Bealey Spur and O'Malleys Track

Jordan Stream is a vast expanse of gravel, the main river bed is about a kilometre across, totally bone dry. I would imagine that when a good olde Nor' Wester starts bucketing down it soon fills to the brim, there is no covering vegetation so it must get washed away regularly by all the water.

View up Jordan Stream from stream bed

Looking West to Mt Stewart and headwaters from Jordan Stream

The further you walk the better the views of the surrounding mountains, Crow Valley starts to open up as you get closer to the hut.

Waimakariri Valley: Anti Crow Hut is over the spur to left

View of Mt Stewart, Crow Valley from Waimakariri Valley

The final part of the route is a short track over a bush spur, when the river is low you can forgo the pleasures of the track and just walk up the dry river bed. Be aware there is a bit of a hairy down climb right at the end of the track, not high just difficult.

Anti Crow Hut: climbing over last spur

Track heading down to Anti Crow Flat

Anti Crow Hut is a classic ex NZFS six bunker, it is in a nice location sited in a bush finger with expansive views of the valley. I believe this is the second hut on the site, being built in 1960 to replace an even older hut. DOC have obviously been in to do some upkeep as the hut was looking in excellent condition.

Anti Crow Hut (1960)

Anti Crow Hut: come on in folks.....

It has a new coat of paint outside and is fairly tidy inside, 6 bunks but you could probably get another 4-6 people in on the flood if needed. Most visitors are people on day tramps, mountain runners and climbers/trampers on their way to/from Carrington Hut and the Three Passes Route.
 I was the first person to visit the hut since the 5th September.

Interior of Anti Crow Hut

Anti Crow Hut: interior, opposite end of hut

View east to Klondyke Corner from Anti Crow Hut

There are some impressive views of the South face of Mt Rolleston (2271 meters) as well as the Crow Valley. I will eventually get around to visiting the Crow Valley Hut, it is a bit of a tricky trip as you need to cross the Waimakiriri a couple of times to get there.

Rolleston Glacier from near Anti Crow Hut

Mt Rolleston (2271 meters), Arthurs Pass NP

The hut looks good in its new coat of paint, I especially like the sheet of clearlite DOC have retrofitted to improve the light inside the hut. Makes it so much brighter and cheerful.

Close view of Anti Crow Hut

There is a big flat area in front of the hut, if the hut was full you would have your choice of spots for tenting.

River flats in front of Anti Crow Hut

Crow Valley, destination for future trip, Avalanche Peak to right

I ate my lunch in the hut and then made my way back the way I had arrived. The wind picked up a little around 12 noon but it was still nice walking weather.

Waimakariri Valley: heading back towards Jordan Stream

The hut is just on the other side of the bush spur coming in from the left, the track meanders for about 700-800 meters through the bush.

Anti Crow Hut is just the other side of this bush spur

There is a really obvious ground trail in those places with vegetation, the route is also marked by snow poles as well.

Obvious ground trail across Turkey Flat

Waimakariri Valley: gravel bash supreme!

I don't normally listen to the MP3 while tramping but with that big gravel flat to cross again I needed the inspiration, it worked because it took me half the previous time to get back to the start of the flood track.

Jon bopping out crossing Jordan Stream

More getting down...Waimakariri River Valley

Jordan Stream....that's a whole lot of gravel to walk over, especially when viewed from a log in the middle of the stream bed.

View up the Waimakariri Valley from bed of Jordan Stream

O'Malleys Track: reason for the sidle track: bluffs!

As you can see the Waimakiriri comes right up against the side of Bealey Spur, the water was flowing deep and fast in this channel.

Nice river pool approaching Bealey Bridge

This is the last climb before you start descending down to the car park near the Bealey Bridge. I agree with the guide books: this track needlessly goes up and down but it is a godsend for accessing the upper reaches of the Waimakariri river valley.

O'Malleys Track..scrappy track high above the Waimakariri River

I will be coming back some time in the future to visit the Upper Waimakariri River, I'm keen to visit the massive 36 bunk Carrington Hut as well as the much more modest Waimakariri Falls Hut.

Access: From SH 73 at the Bealey Bridge, park at the O'Malleys Track car park and follow the flood track to Turkey Flat, follow the marked track towards the head of the Waimakariri Valley.

Track Times: 2-3 hours to Anti Crow Hut Hut, another 2 hours to Carrington Hut

Hut Details: Anti Crow Hut: standard, 6 bunks, wood burner, water tank, toilet: Carrington Hut: serviced (CTC owned, DOC administered), 36 bunks, radio, wood burner, water tanks, wood shed, toilets

Miscellaneous: Both the Waimakariri and Anti Crow Rivers are dangerous, numerous people have drowned in both, care needed when crossing. Jordan Stream prone to flooding in heavy rain.

Plans for the 2015/16 Summer

I had meant to go for some Winter tramps this year but due to a number of reasons (post graduate study/lots of snow on the Southern Alps/winter laziness) I don't seem to have done any.

Never mind, time to start thinking about plans for Spring-Summer of 2015-16.

I have a large list of possible tramping locations pinned to the wall next to my desk at work, I like to peruse it when I need some "down" time. I have some big plans for tramping over the next 5-6 months, this is how it breaks down:

Day Tramps

• Avalanche Peak via Scotts track, Arthurs Pass NP (rained out twice so far)

• Woolshed Hill, Arthurs Pass NP (rained out once)

• Anti Crow Hut via Waimakiriri, Arthurs Pass NP (Completed 3rd October 2015)

• Mt Oxford Track, Canterbury foothills

• Sawcut Gorge Track, Southern Marlborough (I need a reason to visit Blenheim.....)

• Lewis Pass Tops, Lewis Pass SR (completed 26 December 2015)

Overnight Tramps

• Lake Rotoiti Circuit, Travers Valley, I'm doing a recce of Nelson Lakes NP as I'm planning to walk the Travers-Sabine Circuit either in late 2016 or early 2017. I have tramped in the area before but only a really long time ago.

Lake Rotoiti, Nelson Lakes NP

• Robinson Valley, Victoria FP. This has been on my to do list for several years and in fact I have organized the trip twice only to be put off by bad weather. Hopefully it will work out this time....! (Completed in November 2015, awesome trip excepting falling off a river bank)
  

• Lucretia Biv route, Lewis Pass SR, same as above, called off twice due to rain/bad weather.

• Sudden Valley, Arthurs Pass NP,  same as above. This route is reliant on dry conditions to be viable as you have to cross Sudden Valley Stream a number of times. (Cancelled!....Yep....more damned rain!!!)

• Wharfedale Track, Lees Valley to Whafedale Hut, Mt Oxford FP. I have previously walked the other end of this track back in 2013, so I'm connecting the dots really.

The Te Araroa Trail

I'm section hiking the Te Araroa over the next couple of years so my main  push will be tramping sections of the South Island Tracks.

Over Summer I will be walking:

• Harper Pass Track, SH73 to Lewis Pass, Morrison footbridge to Windy Point, NOBO, (4-6 Days) (Set for 18-22nd February 2016: Rained out by a 1-100 year storm, I walked the QCT instead)

• Migha-Deception track, SH73 to Bealey River,  SOBO (2-3 Days) (rescheduled twice due to rain: Cancelled)

When I have finished these two trips I will have walked the Te Araroa from the Ada River to Lagoon Saddle. This will be roughly 300 km's, or 10% of the total distance.

The TaT Henry River Swingbridge, February 2015

Update 2016: Had some problems so far with weather, Ive had to cancel a lot of trips or redirect to other locations. Other trips I have done include: Kowhai River, Rod Donald Hut, Benmore Hut and Thirteen Mile Bush, Otira Valley, Arthurs Pass Walking Track and some walks in Mt Peel Forest.

Visions of a Long White Cloud...my Te Araroa Trail blog

Te Araroa...or how I learnt to love the walking!

I have decided to start a section hike of the Te Araroa Trail (TA or TaT), and will be spending a lot of my tramping time over the next couple of years working on that project.

What is the Te Araroa Trail?

Te Araroa is a long distance trail which stretches all the way from Cape Reinga in the north to Bluff...a distance of over 3000 kilometres. You basically walk from the top too the bottom of New Zealand!

This puts it into the same class as classics such as the Appalachian Trail, Pacific Crest Trail, Bibbulman in Australia, Wales Coast Pathway and the GR routes in France and Spain. The latest long trail is the proposed Great Himalaya Trail which at 4500 km's will be the longest in the world.

Lagoon Saddle Shelter on the Te Araroa Trail

Through Hike or Section Hike?

Most long distance hikers will walk a long trail in one go; this is known as 'through hiking'. A through hike usually takes from 3-6 months depending on the trail. You walk every day until you reach the end of that trail.

As I have work and family commitments I cannot do this. Instead I will work my way along the Te Araroa, walking sections of it as family, time and finances allow. Section hiking will take me longer to complete the TA but the end result is the same.

Travers River swing bridge, Nelson Lakes NP

As a result I have set up a companion blog to showcase my journey, it is called Visions of a Long White Cloud. I have added it to my featured sites list on the tool bar to the right.

Queen Charlotte Sound from the Queen Charlotte Track

The blog will have trip reports, posts about my gear, trail information and anything I think might be useful to those contemplating a trek of the Te Araroa.

On the Tongariro Crossing back in the early 1990's

Not much content yet, but it will grow as I walk various parts of the trail.

Walking in Hanmer Forest Park, 30 May 2015

 A walk in the woods Hanmer Spring style...

 Kathryn and I took the kids and one of Georgia's friends up to Hanmer for the Queens Birthday weekend. It was a bit cold so I was the only brave soul who elected to go for a walk over the weekend. As Mt Isobel was covered with snow and the weather was a bit iffy, I went for a 2 hour walk in Hanmer Forest Park instead.

On a track deep inside Hanmer Forest Park

All of the tracks in the local forest start from the car-park by the old Ranger Headquarters. There are tracks on both sides of the road which take from 30 minutes to 4 hours.  The Hanmer Forest Park is awesome, I thoroughly recommend a walk here if you ever find yourself in Hanmer Springs.

Car-park outside the Hanmer Forest ranger station

On the Hanmer Forest Journey Track

The start of the track is the most developed section of track, all of the short and longer tracks start here. They are primarily walking tracks but I have encountered MTB riders on these tracks before.



Hanmer Forest Park Entrance

Hanmer Forest Park track network map

Start of the Forest Amble Track, Hanmer Forest

The forest park is a curious cross section of different timber species. They have been planted in this area as trial plots by NZFS, and latter forest owners. The selection runs the gamut from Aspen to Pine, Redwood, Spruce, Fir, Beech and Cypress.

Nice wide clear track in  Hanmer Forest

There is plenty of clear signage in the forest. It has got much better since Ngai Tahu (the local Maori Iwi) took over ownership of the forest as part of their Treaty of Waitangi Settlement. They seem to have put a bit of money and manpower into maintenance of the track network.

Start of Forest Walk track, Hanmer Forest

There are a number of interpretive panels alongside the tracks, these speak to the various tree species as well as general information about the forest. This is a commercial forest, although I think the part closest to the road has some kind of Historic Place covenant on its use.

Hanmer Forest: One of the interpretive signs on the track

As you travel along you strike a lot of these small bridges over the drainage network in the Forest. I've never seen any water in the ditches but it must happen occasionally.

One of the bridges over a drainage ditch, Hanmer Forest

There are a mixture of walking and MTB tracks in the Forest, sometimes it is hard to tell them apart.

Hanmer Forest: start of the Forest Journey

Me half way round the Forest Journey, Hanmer Forest

Hanmer Forest: Moving along the track

Another bridge for walkers/MTB'ers, Hanmer Forest

Hanmer Forest: Looking East at a track junction

Yes, it was very quiet in the forest, I only passed 3 walkers and 2 MTB'ers the whole time I was there. As I said, it was really cold in Hanmer over that weekend.

 Hanmer Forest: Looking West towards road

Hanmer Forest: Toadstool near the side of the track

I stopped at this nice seat after an hour of walking for a drink and just to take in the surroundings. It was so tranquil listening to the sound of the wind in the trees, and smelling the scent of pine resin.

Nice seat for a scroggin stop, Hanmer Forest

This beast is only 15 years old!

On the track back to the car park

The last part of the track runs alongside the road, on its way back to the Ranger Station and car park. The entire Forest Journey only takes about 1.5 -2 hours but it is very nice walking amongst these trees. Well worth a visit!

Access: From Hanmer Springs head east out of town on Jollies Pass Road, the start of the tracks are 2 km's out of town

Track Times: Forest Journey 1.5-2 hours total

Miscellaneous: Toilets and map board located at the Ranger Station/Park Headquarters at car park

Buyers Tips: Personal Locator Beacon's (PLB)

Tips when purchasing a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB)

 Beside tramping boots a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) will probably be one of the most expensive pieces of kit in any tramper's arsenal. They are also known as Rescue Beacons, EPIRB's or Safety Beacons. With prices ranging from $350 right up to $1300 they are a piece of kit which requires some research and thought before buying. 

Tramper with a GME Personal Locator Beacon...

I recently brought a PLB, so here are a few tips I discovered while researching my purchase.

What is a PLB and how does it work?

 In basic terms, a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) is an electronic safety device that when activated sends a distress signal to a satellite. The satellite system informs the rescue authorities in your location who then initiate a Search and Rescue (SAR) operation to come to your assistance. This is a very basic description of the process but you get the main idea... 

The PLB activation sequence...what happens!!!

Most rescue missions are undertaken by a helicopter as it is the fastest and most direct way to gain access to the person who set the beacon off. The usual response time is 2-4 hours but it can take much longer. There are only a few SAR helicopters on duty and they may be busy and need to triage who they assist first. Also a helicopter cannot fly in adverse conditions in which case a much longer ground rescue might be the response. 

The Westpac Rescue Helicopter's undertake many rescues in the South Island

SAR responses will also be undertaken by boat, vehicle or on foot depending on the location and resources. The SAR Rescue Center will make a decision on how the rescue is carried out taking into account all the information they have at their command.  

Please note: There are two frequencies PLB's operate on: 122.5 Mhz and 406 Mhz. Only 406 Mhz beacons are monitored in New Zealand so please check if your PLB will work here if you are visiting from another country.

Why buy a PLB?

What a personal locator beacon offers is a measure of security. If you or a member of your party has an accident which precludes walking then this is your quickest means of summoning assistance. Why wait for days when using your PLB could mean assistance within hours.

A SAR rescue operation in progress in 2015

 

While PLB's are useful for all outdoor folk they should probably be required equipment for solo tramper's. When you tramp solo you are completely reliant on your own abilities/actions to get home so if you get injured you will not be able to self rescue. In cases like these having a PLB could be the difference between life and death...

Where should I buy?

Most PLB buyers will purchase their beacon from a local hunting, boating or outdoor shop. It is probably preferable to buy local as warranties and servicing will be easier to obtain. I have brought my beacon from Hunting & Fishing here in Christchurch but they are sold at most of the major outdoor retailers including Bivouac, Macpac, Kathmandu, Hutch Wilco and Torpedo 7. 

Hunting & Fishing Tower Junction...

There are also a number of on-line New Zealand based suppliers, Aviation Safety Supplies Ltd is the most well known but they are also available from online retailers like Gearshop.  You can buy your beacon on-line from overseas but be aware that they will need to be re-programmed to work in this country, this costs approximately $120.

Common brands and prices

There are numerous brands and types of beacon's available, I will discuss several of the most common brands I have encountered while tramping in New Zealand:

ACR ResQLink:

One of the larger locator beacon manufacturers is ACR, with their ResQLink beacon. Importantly the ACR ResQLink is the beacon used by the Police, Armed Forces, NZ Search and Rescue (SAR) and the Southland Locator Beacon Charity.

ACR ResQLink PLB

 

The company produces a number of beacons, the more expensive are GPS capable. GPS capability means that the potential search radius is much smaller as GPS units are accurate to 10-30 meters. Non GPS equipped beacons have a 100 meters radius by comparison. That might not sound like much but 100 meters is a huge area to search in rough, broken or thickly forested areas. You want a GPS capable beacon!

Standard pricing ranges from $500-$700 depending on the retailer. 

Fast Find McMurdo:

Another brand is the McMurdo 220, they are smaller than the ACR beacons but have very similar features.

McMurdo Fast Find 220 PLB

 These beacons float which is an important factor to consider when using it in the wet New Zealand back-country. I have been told it is slightly more difficult to extend the antenna on these, but have not tried myself. Again, these range in price from $530-$700 depending on where you purchase the unit.

Ocean Signal RescueMe PLB1:

Ocean Signal is a well known manufacturer of safety equipment for boaters and the sea faring set and one of the items they produce are PLB/EPIRB's. An EPIRB is a Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon...they work much the same as a PLB using satellites to send a rescue position to the authorities but they operate on the 121.5 Mhz range and tend to be larger and heavier than ground use PLB's. They have a longer battery life (typically 10 years) and most have the ability to automatically deploy when the vessel sinks. Their weight and size generally make them unsuitable for trampers. 

An Ocean Signal EPIRB device

One of the other devices the company produces is the RescueMe PLB1 which is currently the smallest and lightest PLB device on the market. They also have the longest battery life at 7 years. I have seen more and more of these units being carried by trampers and they are becoming one of the main PLB suppliers.

Prices for an Ocean Signal PLB1 are slightly more than some of the others brands with a standard price of around $600-$700. If these units were a little cheaper they would be my recommended device...it is hard to go past the lower weight and size of these. 

AccuSat GME MT410G:

I have seen a couple of people with AccuSat GME beacons, cost is around $500 from Aviation Safety Supplies based in Hamilton. They have a hard protective outer casing on them, an excellent feature as PLB's tend to get knocked around. Because of this they are slightly heavier than the ACR and McMurdo Beacons.

GME MT410G PLB

I believe they are aimed at the boating community more than tramper's but they basically work the same way so can be used for terrestrial as well as aquatic environments..

Here is some info from their site:

"The MT410 and MT410g provide the aviator and or the outdoor adventurer with a 406 MHz PLB that is not only affordable, but provides enhanced peace of mind for boaters, bush walkers, 4 x 4 enthusiasts and aviators should they ever require emergency assistance."

SPOT Find Me:

You can buy a Spot Find Me for around $300, and they are the smallest and lightest of the five PLB's shown here. They have excellent GPS enabled tracking functions and allow for pre-programmed messages to be sent to designated people.

SPOT Find Me PLB

    One negative feature is a US  $150 per annum fee to register it...so you would be looking at $1200 for the 6 year battery life of the unit. Worth considering if the ability to message your loved ones is important to you.

Garmin inReach and inReach Mini:

The last of the brands of beacon worth discussing is the Garmin inReach and inReach Mini...these are a hybrid between a PLB and a messaging device. They act much like a SPOT device with the ability to send AND receive messages via satellite...obviously this is a very useful ability. Importantly there is no need for an annual payment to use the service which makes them a more economical option. 

These Garmin devices have an SOS function allowing you to summon assistance in the manner of a PLB. The most capable model is also a GPS unit with the ability to load topographic maps and track information. I can see these devices eventually dominating the market BUT the downside is that they are currently quite expensive with prices ranging from $600-$1300 depending on model. 

My beacon: ACR ResQLink

In the end I decided to buy a ACR ResQLink and there were three main reasons for this:

PLB size comparison: McMurdo, Rescueme and ResQLink

Familiarity: I have hired these beacons before and found them light and easy to use.

  

Price: I brought mine for $530 from Hunting and Fishing (Ballingers) in Christchurch. This was the best price within New Zealand for a ResQLink PLB, the other suppliers were selling them for up to $630. This was also one of the lower PLB prices regardless of brand.

Functionality: These are the easiest to use of the five beacons: the antenna is easy to extend and requires minimal pressure to do so. The controls are obvious and really simple to use. One feature I really like are the instructions printed on the PLB itself.

The ACR ResQLink in the deployed setting

Personally, I would recommend that every tramping party carry a PLB. The added layer of security they offer is certainly worth the price and weight.