Mt Grey, North Canterbury: 31 October 2016

Mt Grey: A tale of three tramping plans.....

Plan 1:

So.... I had this plan to go up to Arthur's Pass NP over the weekend and tramp the Cass - Lagoon Saddle Track....now, lets just have a look at the weather...oh what...rain, high wind, snow, high avalanche risk.... Unghhh!

Plan 2:

So instead I had this plan to go tramp up the Nina Valley to revisit Nina Hut on the Sunday when the rain had passed, stay for the night and then walk out on Monday morning...I'll just have a look at my diary to see what I'm doing on Tuesday...what...I'm working on Sunday...Unghhhhhh!

Mt Grey, North Canterbury

Plan 3:

Anyway, this plan was to go tramp one of the tracks to the summit of Mt Grey in North Canterbury and surprise it actually worked out this time!

 This is my third visit to Mt Grey; the first was an army exercise in 1988 where we drove up to the summit to practice communication tasks, the second was an off track crossing from near the Grey River Campsite to Lees Valley via Mt Grey again with the army in 1989 or 1990. 

That is a long time between visits....nearly 30 years!

Tramping in the Mt Grey conservation area

Mt Grey (933 meters) is a stand alone peak about 60 km's north of Christchurch near the small country town of Amberley. The mountain is clearly visible as you travel along SH1 to points north, south and west, it is the dominant feature on the landward side of Amberley.

Mt Grey track network

Mt Grey is covered in exotic forest owned by Matariki Forestry but it also contains a significant conservation area of native bush and a nice track network on the south side of Mt Grey. The Lookout Track is on Matariki land on the SE side of the mountain.

Mt Grey Track network

Map: Mt Grey showing the route I took on this trip....

The forest is usually open to allow tramping/hunting access although it will be closed if there is a high fire risk, it is windy or if there are logging operations under way. From Amberley, follow Douglas Road, then Crampon's Bush Road until the road reaches the Lake Janet picnic area (17 km from Amberley). Don't look for DOC signs, there aren't any,  make sure you take a topo map of the area with you.

All of these forest roads are high standard gravel roads so you can reach them in an ordinary car.

Starting at Lake Janet

I decided I would follow the track from Lake Janet to the summit of Mt Grey, I would then return on the same track making for a 4 hour round trip. More about that later.....

Lay by at Lake Janet...no damn signage!

There is a lay by at the Lake Janet track entrance, it is big enough to hold 6-7 cars with plenty of parking on the opposite side of the logging road as an over spill area.

Looking towards the Port Hills from lay by

Lay by at Lake Janet

There is no signage here, I found out later that Matariki and DOC are having a tussle over access to the forest so DOC have removed all signs and are not maintaining the tracks anymore. Local tramping groups have taken over track maintenance to maintain some level of access.

Start of the Mt Grey Lookout track

Lake Janet is what an American from the South would call a "holler" or "hollar" i.e "Hi ben livin bout a mile up tu holler hi got a place onu". It's a small depression where rain water has collected. There is a nice looking track which goes around it, posted time is 5 minutes.  

Murky Lake Janet (Janet Holla')

Below is the only track sign you will find at this end of the track, this does not matter as the track is obvious and in good condition. The first hour of the walk is a slow climb through exotic forest to a fire lookout overlooking the forest. The track is a series of switchbacks slowly climbing the flank of the mountain and shaded except for the last 500 meters which are in the open.

Mt Grey Track: The only track sign at this end of track...

Climbing through the exotic forest, Mt Grey Track

One of the switchbacks on the Mt Grey lookout track

Below is the only sign that tells you that you are following the right track, it is about 30 minutes up the track just before you break out of the cover of the pine trees. There are still DOC track markers but they are few and far between.

Mt Grey Track: track signage and track marker, Mt Grey

Switchback track climbing through the pine forest on the Mt Grey Track

The views get progressively better as you climb; they encompass South Canterbury right out to the Kaikoura Peninsula from the trig point atop Mt Grey.

Mt Grey Track: view SW towards Oxford

Approaching the fire lookout station on Mt Grey, Mt Grey Track

Christchurch, Banks Peninsula in the far distance from Mt Grey

After about an hour you crest a small spur and reach the fire lookout. A fire lookouts are not common in New Zealand, this is probably the only commercial forest in the country that has the right conditions to favour having one.

It is certainly a good vantage point, you can see 60% of the forest from this spot.

Fire lookout station, Mt Grey

View NE towards Motunau Bay, Amberley Beach from Mt Grey Track

Mt Grey Track: Pegasus Bay from high on Mt Grey

From this point you can either follow the 4 W/D track to the repeater station near the crest or take the more scenic sidle track which rolls along the NE face of Mt Grey.

I got talking to the trip leader of the Amberley Mountain Goats group who were resting by the fire lookout. He recognised me from this blog: this is the third time this has happened in the last 2 months so people are obviously getting some value from my ramblings. He said that the sidle track was nice and it is..thanks for the info!

Steps leading to the start of the Mt Grey sidle track

On the sidle track to the TV repeater station, Mt Grey Track

Mt Grey Track: slightly further along the Mt Grey sidle track

Jon on the Mt Grey sidle track

The Sidle track is very nice, it is a mixture of bush track and tussock basin with awesome views out to the North and East. From the fire lookout it is about 30 minutes of gradual climbing to reach the TV/radio repeater station on the secondary high point of the Mt Grey massif.

Mt Grey Track: on the sidle track: Bush

Mt Grey Track: on the sidle track: Tussock

Climbing the slope to gain the Mt Grey repeater station, Mt Grey Track

TV/radio repeater station on Mt Grey massif

Jon at the Mt Grey repeater station

From the repeater station I moved north to pt. 929 about 100 meters along the ridge, there are fantastic views from this point of all of the Canterbury Plains and Hurunui District.

Mt Grey Massif: View north from pt. 929

Mt Grey Massif: View North from Pt. 929

Mt Grey Massif: Banks Peninsula from pt. 929

Mt Grey Massif: The repeater station from Pt. 929

Mt Grey Massif: View South towards Oxford etc from pt.929

Panoramic view from Pt. 929, Mt Grey Massif, North Canterbury

After a stop for a snack and a drink (both of water and scenery) I moved off to the north along the long slowly climbing ridge line that is Mt Grey. The actual crest of the mountain is about 15 minutes to the north and is marked by a large cairn and a trig point. As I climbed to the crest I was accompanied by the members of the tramping group who had caught up to me.

On the summit of Mt Grey with Amberley Mountain Goat Group

Red Beech track heading out to NW, Mt Grey Massif

There are true 360 views from the top of Mt Grey, including a good view down into Lees Valley and the area to the north west of Amberley. This is a valley of gently rolling hills usually only visited by those who farm there.

The trig point on Mt Grey

View back down the whole Mt Grey Massif from the trig

I was invited to sit and eat lunch with the Amberley tramping group which I did. We sat on the warm hillside for about 20 minutes eating and chatting to each other. They seem like a nice group of people, mostly locals and they looked fit as a fiddle.

This is what I envision for myself when i get older, a weekday tramping club going out for interesting day walks. I was offered the opportunity to walk back to the car park with them as part of their group, which I happily accepted.

Looking out towards Lees Valley from Mt Grey

View north towards Hurunui area from Mt Grey

Originally, I had planned to follow the same track back to the car park, but the Amberley group were going down the Mt Grey Track and using the now defunct Bypass track to get back to Lake Janet. I knew about the Bypass Track but had heard that it was difficult to find so had discounted it as an option. 

This was a real treat to bush bash, something I don't get a lot of opportunity to do tramping solo.

Thanks for the offer by the way....

Descending on the nice Mt Grey Track

Alpine vegetation along the Mt Grey Track

The Mt Grey Track is very nice, a mixture of open tussock basins and beech forest, especially good to be walking DOWN on it rather than up......

Entering the bush on the Mt Grey Track

I forgot to take a photo of the Huntaway dog the Amberley group had with them, she was a real charmer and faithfully followed along at the back of the group like any good farm dog should.

Mt Grey Track: Clemensia Vines growing on track side beech tree

After travelling down the Mt Grey Track for 45 minutes you strike a small flat saddle, the turn off for the Bypass Track is in this area. It is not sign posted as it is no longer maintained or marked. If you didn't know it was an old track you would not see it because it is overgrown.

Map:  Bypass Track from Mt Grey Track to Lookout Track, Mt Grey Massif

I'm not going to be any more precise because, quite frankly, I don't want anyone using the track on my recommendation and getting lost. People get lost in this forest all the time, notably a local man Ray Cassidy who got separated from his tramping party on the Red Beech Track and has never been found.

Saddle at the start of the Bypass Track turnoff, Mt Grey

Mt Grey: on the overgrown Bypass Track

Regroup point on the Bypass Track, Mt Grey

Ridge the main Mt Grey Track descends

While the track is a bit rugged it is still easy to follow and is actually quite nice to walk on for most of the way. I believe that various tramping clubs in the North Canterbury area maintain the track at a basic level so they can do loops to and from Lake Janet.  It is a real pity that DOC seem to be stepping back from the area as all of the tracks in this area are very nice.

One of the better points on the Bypass Track, Mt Grey

Mt Grey Track follows this spur to Grey River Campsite

You can just make out the course of the track on the hillside in the photo below, it is the line running from left to right over the top of the spur.  Because the taller trees are removed it leaves a clear gap in the canopy which is visible to the trained eye.

The spur line the Bypass Track crosses, Mt Grey

From the end of the Bypass Track it was downhill for 20 minutes along the Mt Grey lookout track back to the car park.  Total time for this trip was 4.5-5 hours, 2 hours to reach the top of Mt Grey and about 2-3 hours back to the car park.

Last view of Ashley Forest when descending the Mt Grey Lookout Track

Another fine hill trip in the bag, so to speak, the views from the top of Mt Grey are the most spectacular from any of the Canterbury foothills in my opinion. You should head out to Amberley some day and take a tramp on one of the fine tracks in this forest.

Access: Maukatere/Mt Grey is approximately 72 km's north of Christchurch and can be accessed from Amberley township. From Amberley turn left onto Douglas Road and drive to the intersection with Crampton's Bush Road and follow this to the Lake Janet car-park on the left of the gravel logging road. 

Track Times: Lake Janet Track; From the Lake Janet car-park to summit is 1.5-2 hours. It is quicker on the descent...1.5 from the summit of Mt Grey to the car-park. To use Mt Grey Track and Red Beech Track continue past Lake Janet for approximately 2 kilometers to the Mt Grey Campsite. 

Miscellaneous:There is a toilet and some picnic tables at Lake Janet. The track is steep, muddy and rough underfoot in some sections. From the fire lookout to the summit is exposed to the weather so carry warm clothing and sun protection. There are alternate tracks up Mt Grey Track, Red Beech Ridge and the 4 W/D road to the summit for MTB riders. Crompton's Bush Road is a gravel forestry road so look for logging trucks and heavy machinery. 

Whats in a DOC Hut?: An overview of a what to expect...

 Backcountry huts: A guide for new trampers...

One of the unique things you will encounter tramping in New Zealand are the DOC huts which are such a feature of outdoor life here. We have 900+ back country huts scattered around the country which can be used for a very minimal charge.

That first tantalising glimpse of your home for the night...Magdalen Hut

Your average Kiwi tramper will probably stay in huts for 90% of the time when tramping, the other 10% will be camping.

A good hut has an awesome location...Nina Hut, Lewis Pass Scenic Reserve

That is a lot of hut life!

 I don't know about you but huts are one of the things I most enjoy about tramping. 

A breakdown of DOC hut amenities

I thought it might be interesting to look at some of the amenities DOC huts contain as well as discussing some of the rules of good hut etiquette before you start your tramping adventures.

Living Space

  Most of the larger huts will have some sort of living area, what this entails varies from hut to hut. Generally this will consist of a table of some description with wooden benches, a cooking bench (see below), heating source (see below) and possibly some shelving space. 

Living/Cooking space, Te Matawai Hut, Tararua FP

 If we look at a specific hut, Boyle Flat Hut on the St James Walkway we can see what the hut contains in the way of living space. This is one of my favourite huts, I have been here several times now and I have always enjoyed my stay.

As you can see below there are several tables with bench seating, there is also a very nice bench seat under the window. There are a series of drying wires across the living space for trampers to dry their gear on.

Living area in Boyle Flat Hut

In this photo we can see the integrated gun rack that has been built for this hut, there is a book shelf with some reading material and some information panels on the walls.

Looking towards the bunk room in Boyle Flat Hut

  The other side of the room has a cooking bench along the wall, with shelf units above and below it. The sleeping area at Boyle Flat consists of two separate 10 bunk rooms. This hut was built by the Walkways Commission back in the early 1980's so it has a much higher level of amenity than your more typical 4 or 6 bunk hut.

Other side of Boyle Flat Hut living area

Compare Boyle Flat to the classic NZFS 6 bunk Hackett Hut in Mt Richmond FP. The New Zealand Forestry Service (NZFS) was the precursor to DOC, they had generic 2, 4, 6 and 8 bunk hut designs which they scattered wildly about the country. A NZFS hut has the same amenities as a larger hut but in a much more compact form.

 Generally these smaller huts are an open room design, they will not have a table but will still have a cooking bench, heating and shelving in the living area.

Entrance way for Hackett Hut, Mt Richmond FP

Hackett Hut Interior

Sleeping areas

Many of the DOC huts were built as overnight shelter for NZFS forestry workers, deer cullers and musterers so of course they needed sleeping facilities. 

Some of the older huts still have the original canvas/burlap sacking bunks which was the standard format up till the late 1960's. This consists of a piece of canvas stretched over poles to make a hammock like bunk. 

If you never have the doubtful pleasure of sleeping in one just let me say...they are damn uncomfortable!

Canvas sacking bunks, West Harper Hut

Far more common are huts with mattresses and bunks/sleeping platforms. A sleeping platform is one large expanse of wood or concrete which you top with the supplied mattresses. This is the most economical use of space as 10 people can fit on a sleeping platform that will only hold 6 individual bunks.

Sleeping platform in the new (2014) Anne Hut

 
Let us look once again at the facilities at Boyle Flat Hut.  Boyle Flat is a 20 bunker, i.e. it has space for 20 people to sleep inside. In this case the sleeping areas consist of two bunk rooms separated by a wall. The bunks in this particular hut are of the "sleeping platform" type and can accommodate 10 people per room in two layers.

Sleeping platforms at Boyle Flat Hut

Bunks are individual spaces, just big enough for the standard DOC foam mattresses to fit on and are more common with huts built after the mid 1970's. All DOC huts can be partially characterised by the number of bunks supplied: for example Anne Hut is a 24 bunk hut, whereas tiny Harpers Pass Bivouac is a 2 bunk.

Individual bunks in Anti Crow Hut, Arthur's Pass NP

Some huts will also have you sleeping on the floor, an example being Lagoon Saddle Hut in Craigieburn FP. There is a combined table/sleeping platform for one person in the hut, the other two residents sleep on the floor on the mattresses provided.

Lagoon Saddle Shelter, 1 person sleeping space (2 more on floor)

When you leave in the morning you need to stack the mattresses on their sides in an orderly fashion, this protects them from dust, vermin and mildew.

Nicely stacked mattresses in Christopher Hut

A note concerning bunk reservations...

 If you are hiking with a group and arrive piecemeal, good hut etiquette dictates that you cannot reserve a bunk for your mate....they need to be there in person to claim a bunk.

 Hut floors, decks and verandas make great back ups if the bunks are all taken and this perfectly allowable (I have slept on a hut table a couple of times...). You can sleep in your tent and only use the hut for cooking, socialising etc if that proves necessary.

Packhorse Hut, Banks Peninsula, 10 bunks...awesome views!

Share the hut: if there are 6 of you in a 6 bunk hut and a group of 4 arrive move over, make room for them and welcome them in.

This is how a real kiwi tramper acts...be a real kiwi tramper!!

Verandas/Decks

There is a trend in the newer huts to include both verandas and decks to maximise the usable living space.

Decks are a welcome addition to huts, as they provide space to sit in the sun, dry out gear and generally stop mud from entering the hut itself. There is nothing finer of an afternoon than sitting on a sunny sand fly free deck supping a hot brew.

Anne Hut, the wrap around deck look...

 Verandas are often built onto existing huts to provide a place for hanging wet gear out of the rain as well as providing storage areas for firewood. They range in size from small alcoves right through to fully enclosed secondary rooms.

Boyle Flat Hut, open deck and enclosed veranda

 

Inside the Lakehead Hut veranda, Nelson Lakes NP

 Water sources

With some exceptions every DOC hut will have one of two types of water source: a water tank or a nearby stream or river.

Your source of water, the Robinson Rive, Victoria Forest Park

The vast majority of huts will still get their water from a nearby stream or river but this is changing. With climate change, drier weather and more people visiting back country areas these water sources either disappear or become vectors for sickness. The solution is rain water tanks.

Boyle Flat Hut, stream fed water tank

Increasingly DOC huts are provided with a rainwater tank, these take rainwater from the hut gutters and store it in large capacity tanks. This is especially prevalent in low precipitation areas like the Richmond Range and at those huts atop ridge lines or on drier east facing hills.

 

Magdalen Hut, brand new rain water tank next to hut

 All new huts are built to this standard and more and more older ones are having them added as maintenance is done on the huts. Eventually all of the huts maintained by DOC will get the majority of their water from rain.

NB: Not all of the huts are owned & maintained by DOC, a lot are owned by 4 W/D/hunting/skiing/mountaineering clubs and increasing numbers are maintained by volunteers.

Water is a precious resource please conserve it: take only what you need.

Cooking spaces

  Cooking mishaps are the number two reason huts burn down so DOC have provided us with metal cooking benches for our stoves. Please use these, as cooking on one of the wooden tables or the floor of a hut can easily cause a fire.

  

Small Hut: Magdalen Hut,Lake Sumner FP: the cooking bench

In the newer huts these benches will be stainless steel, generally with a metal back splash on the nearby walls. There will be a window for ventilation and candle holders or solar lighting panels to illuminate the area. 

Inside a larger hut: Lakehead Hut cooking area, table and bench

In the older huts the bench will be made of zinc covered wood but they provide the same fire protection for the hut.

Some popular huts may have pots, pans, utensils etc. but don't count on this, bring your own.

Hut etiquette note:

Please make sure you have adequate ventilation while using a stove. Solid fuel, white spirit, meths and gas canisters all give off carbon monoxide in use, open a window so it can escape. Be extremely careful when refilling gas bottles or changing canisters as fire is a real risk at that time. 

Classic NZFS zinc covered cooking bench, Mid Robinson Hut

Many of the established DOC camp grounds will have a covered shelter where you can cook and hang out. Generally these are set up like a hut: steel/zinc covered bench, picnic table with seating or benches and water supply from tank or stream. If the bugs aren't too bad these are excellent places to mingle with other trampers.

Cooking shelter, Bay of Many Coves, Queen Charlotte Track

Fire places/stoves

Most DOC huts in will have a fireplace, gas heater or wood burner in them. These are there to provide heating as well as a place to cook. What you wont always get is wood- only the Great Walk and Serviced huts will have a fuel supply- otherwise it is up to you to provide. Fuel can be wood, coal or gas depending on the location.

Example of an open fireplace at West Harper Hut, Craigieburn Rnge

Firewood waiting to go into the wood shed at Lakehead Hut

A sight to gladden any budding pyromaniacs heart...a full wood shed!

All huts with wood heating will have either an axe (usually chained to the wood shed) or a bow saw for cutting firewood. Please return them to their spot so other trampers can use them in the future.

With axe and saw we get firewood...

...and fire!!!!

 Please don't steal the tools: some day a cold, wet and hypothermic tramper might turn up at that hut and find no means to cut wood for a life saving fire...

Consider your actions!

Extra fuel for the wood burner at Magdalen Hut

Hut etiquette note:

Please do not cut up the furniture, decks, doors etc. and burn it (yes people have done this), not only is it ridiculous it also the number one way to get off side with fellow trampers. If I turn up at a hut and I see you shoving the last piece of the table into the fire rest assured I will tear you a new one....

Please do not cut down the 200 year old tree next to the hut....go find some standing dry in the forest and cut it up with the axe or saw provided. Look for standing trees that are dead but not rotting, these will often burn extremely well. Rotten wood WILL NOT burn so please don't gather it up.

Don't use all the wood, replace the dry wood you use so the next visitors have some.

Nothing like a blazing fire...

Make sure the fireplace is cleared or at least fully out before you leave. More huts burn down because of careless ash handling than any other cause. Dowse them or put them in the ash barrel if there is one. As a last resort leave the cooling ashes in the fireplace with the door firmly shut, at least they wont burn down the hut if they are contained.

Ash barrel at Lakehead Hut, Nelson Lakes NP

Finally, if it is a sweltering 30 degree summer day don't light the fire, it is not necessary. You are just wasting firewood and irritating your hut mates.

Cheers!

Toilet facilities

Ah... a subject dear to the heart of all trampers....toilets!

Almost all of the 900+ DOC huts will have toilet facilities of one sort or another, the quality will depend on popularity of the hut, its age, location and users.

Were there be people there be long drop....

The toilets will range from very basic long drops right through to palatial toilet mansions with flushing toilets, sinks, fresh water, a disco ball and even a supply of paper in some cases.

Most basic toilet...a handy patch of bush...

A "Bog" standard DOC long drop toilet

Better: Slightly more up market facilities, Hawdon Hut

Oh yeah!!!: High quality DOC campground toilet block

Two things to consider:

1.  Bring your own paper as 98% of the DOC facilities will not have any.

2.  USE THE TOILETS! There was a lot of hate for Te Araroa thru hikers in the media earlier this year as tales of sordid toilet habits were made public. It seems that some people were "doing their business" outside hut doors and on tracks rather than using the toilets provided.

It was probably not TA walkers but that is who got blamed.

Don't be that guy or gal... if there is a toilet available then bloody well use it!

If you must "s - - t in the woods" do it right and bury your waste at least 100 meters away from water/tracks/huts.

Martins Hut, Longwood Forest...the first/last hut on the Te Araroa Trail

Miscellaneous Hut Gear

Stuff you will commonly find in a DOC Hut:

• Broom (Hint: You use it to sweep the floor...)
• Ash bucket for the fire
• Axe and/or saw for cutting firewood
• Half brush and shovel
• A green DOC hut visitors book

Axe and bow saw, Mt Rintoul Hut, Richmond FP

Stuff you might find in a hut but don't rely on it:

• Buckets/bowls/pots/pans
• Cleaning materials/soap/dishwash
• Reading matter
• Paper/matches/lighter for starting a fire
• Pack of Cards
• Spare tramping food left by other visitors

Cleaning materials at Hawdon Hut

 Weird stuff I have found in a hut:

• an unopened 750ml bottle of good red wine (seriously...why didn't you just drink it...it was delicious by the way).
• A pair of lavender frilly french knickers?
• a 12 pack of condoms...found near the knickers...???
• One sized 10 boot??????
• a kiddie paddling pool???????

 Use them....don't abuse them!

Outdoor loving kiwis are justifiably proud of our hut network and we are also very protective of it. We are privileged to be able to use these huts, just imagine how different the New Zealand outdoor experience would be without them.

East Hawdon Biv, Arthurs Pass NP

Please remember they are a finite resource: DOC is strapped for cash so if you damage a hut or burn it down it will probably not be repaired or replaced (Casey Hut in Arthur's Pass is a case in point...).

Please fill in the hut book, DOC maintain these huts based on the number of visitors to them and hut book statistics are their main source of data. No data....no maintenance! 

Standard DOC hut visitors book

Pay your hut fees........I do, so should you. This includes all kiwi trampers...no you haven't already paid for them with your taxes, Joe Taxpayer paid for them back in 1971 when the hut was built! A DOC hut pass costs about $100 per year - how many coffees is that: 25!

Don't be so goddamn cheap!

 

If in doubt, treat the hut like you would your own home, thanks very much...