Cobb River Valley, Kahurangi National Park, 11-13 September 2020: Day 1

Tramping in the Cobb River Valley, Kahurangi NP

I recently visited the Cobb Valley inland from Takaka in Kahurangi National Park...this was the first but certainly not the last time I will be visiting this prime tramping location. 

Looking down the Cobb Valley from near Fenella Hut

I have not been into Kahurangi NP for over 25 years and hopefully this is just the first of many adventures to follow in this magnificent park at the top of the South Island. I have long wanted to visit the Cobb River Valley but it is a long way from Christchurch...I drove over 1400 kilometers on this trip!!!

The narrow Cobb Dam Road on the way to the Cobb Power Station

The Cobb Valley is the location of the Cobb Dam and Reservoir built in the early 1950's as one of the early hydro electric systems in this country. The access to the valley is a long, narrow and winding gravel road and this is the main reason I have not visited previously. It is just passable in a 2 W/D car but a sturdy 4 W/D would be better as I will discuss later...

Cobb Power Station on the Upper Takaka River

After reaching Cobb Power Station you drive up and over the Cobb Ridge stopping at the information shelter to take in the spectacular view. There are some fantastic vistas of the Cobb Reservoir, the Cobb, Peel and Lockett Ranges and the whole Cobb Valley from near here. This is also the starting point for the Cobb Ridge Track which sidles along to the far end of the Reservoir near Myttons Hut. 

The Cobb Ridge Information shelter, Kahurangi NP

Looking down on Cobb Reservoir from the Cobb Ridge information shelter

Then it is along a bumpy gravel road down to the dam and thence to the camp site and carpark near Trilobite Hut at the end of Cobb Reservoir. There are a number of interesting trips possible from this end of the Valley...the trip up the Cobb Ridge to Myttons Hut, Lake Peel and the Tablelands. You can also walk over Bullock Creek Track to the historic Asbestos Hut in the Upper Takaka River. 

Cobb Reservoir, Cobb Valley, Kahurangi National Park

Up valley you can tramp to Lake Cobb, Xenicus Peak, Aorere Peak and Fenella Hut. On the opposite side of the valley you can traverse stunning tops on the Lockett Range, Waingaro Peak and visit Lake Sylvester and Lake Sylvester Hut. You can easily spend two weeks in the valley and still have excellent destinations left to explore. 

On the Cobb Valley Road, Cobb Valley, Kahurangi National Park

I managed to bag an additional seven huts on this one trip including the Cobb Tent Camp pictured below and the hand hewn timber Chaffeys Hut. I also finally got to visit Fenella Hut built in memory of Fenella Druce tragically killed in the Three Johns Hut disaster of the late 1970's. The hut was built by her family and friends and those that remain take a keen interest in the hut to this day. 

Cobb Tent Camp, Cobb Valley, Kahurangi National Park

Fenellas Tarn in Cobb Valley, Kahurangi National Park

The area around Fenella Hut is one of the nicest tramping locations I have ever visited and warrants at least another visit. All of the huts in this area have character and all of them are historic for one reason or another. 

Aorere Peak from near Fenella's Tarn, Kahurangi National Park

I really recommend the Cobb Valley to any keen New Zealand tramper...it is simply wonderful tramping country that will reward you for the effort needed to get here. When you come plan to stay for a while as you are going to find a treasure trove of fine tramping adventures waiting for you. 

Looking down on the Cobb River Valley from the track to Myttons Hut

So after that build up lets take a look at what I consider one of the finest tramping destinations in the country...Cobb Valley in the Kahurangi National Park.

Trilobite Hut to Chaffey Hut:

It is a mission just getting to the Cobb Valley in the first place. I drove up from Christchurch on the Thursday and spent the night in Motueka. Then the next day I had to drive over Takaka Hill and follow the long, narrow winding road into the carpark at Trilobite Hut. 

The view of Motueka from the Takaka Hill lookout, Golden Bay

It is a nasty wee road...just passable by two wheel drive cars if you drive carefully and slowly. The Surfer made it there but she was not happy about it...The road really needs some work done to it so be aware of this if considering a visit to this part of Kahurangi NP.

The narrow sealed section of Cobb Dam Road

Trilobite Hut from the Lake Peel Track car-park, Cobb Valley, Kahurangi National Park

Map: Cobb Valley- Trilobite to Chaffeys Hut

I parked the Silver Surfer at the Trilobite carpark which is right next to Trilobite Hut at the start of the Cobb Valley Track. There is space here for around 10 cars and a short 40 meter walk will see you at the 16 bunk hut. I was Stag once again as Karen could not get any time off work....

The Silver Surfer parked at Trilobite carpark, Cobb Valley

Iron Hill from near Trilobite Hut, Cobb Valley

Trilobite Hut was built as accommodation for the workers on the hydro scheme (1949-1952) and is starting to look its age. It could do with a through refurbishment although it is perfectly usable in its current state. It has a separate living area with a concrete floor and a bunk room with platforms in a separate room. You could stay here before setting off up the valley or just as a trip to an accessible backcountry hut. 

There is also a very nice looking backcountry campsite near the hut...including fire pits, a toilet block and a nice camp shelter. I had actually taken a tent in case I was forced to stay here for some reason so I may try it out the next time I am in the Valley. 

Trilobite Hut, Cobb Valley, Kahurangi National Park

Trilobite Hut: interior of the dining area..note the concrete floor!!!

Trilobite hut: the inside of the bunk rooms...

The Cobb Valley Track starts from the car park and it will take you 5-6 hours walking over 15 kilometers to the Upper Cobb Valley. There are a ton of huts in this valley...6 in total with some really quirky ones. I was heading for Fenella Hut at the extreme end of the valley in an area of exceptional scenic beauty with tarns, rock formations and beautiful alpine forest. 

Start of the Cobb Valley Track to Fenella Hut...

It is straight into the forest on this track through a dense area of mature Beech, Totora and Matai forest. This is a virgin forest...it has never been logged so there are some stonking examples of each of these tree types some of them over 40 meters high and 4-6 meters around the trunk. 

There is a vigorous trapping program in place so the bird numbers are amazing and I saw or heard most of the native bird types over the three days including Kaka, Kakariki, Bellbird, Tui, Fantail, Cuckoo, Kiwi, Kea, Wood Pigeon and Ruru. 

Heading into the forest on the Cobb Valley Track

Mixed Beech, Totora and Matai forest at the start of the Cobb Valley Track

Extensive fern patches at the start of the Cobb Valley Track

There is a fence marking the official edge of Kahurangi NP about 10 minutes walk up the valley...some of the land in the Cobb Basin is owned by Trustpower who manage the Cobb Valley hydro station. 

A cattle fence along the Cobb Valley Track

The Cobb River is visible for most of the day...

Cobb River with the Lockett Range in the background

Nice lighting effect on the Cobb Valley Track

The forest is interspaced with area of dense scrub (mostly Matagouri but also low Kanuka and Manuka), open tussock fields, grasslands and higher up the valley alpine forest. It was an excellent day to be tramping with a warm wind and weak sunlight so it was ok to tramp in shirt sleeves. 

Cobb Valley Track: first bridge for the day

The Cobb Valley Track is prone to deep snow...

Cobb Valley Track: Matagouri scrub along the track...

Iron Hill from the Cobb Valley Track

You have excellent views of the Cobb River along the start of the track as it is usually no more than 100 meters away. I saw numerous fine camping spots as I walked towards the first hut...it would be a great place to go for an extended camping holiday. If you need water it can be taken from the Cobb River although I would boil, filter or treat it first just to be safe. 

An oxbow lake in the Cobb River Valley, Kahurangi NP

Thick forest surrounds sections of the Cobb Valley Track

After the first forested section you walk through a succession of ancient low terminal moraine walls now covered with dense forest and wide open grass lands. It reminds me of the Nelson Lakes and Sumner Forest parks further south. 

On one side of the Valley you have the Lockett Range while on the other it is the Cobb and Peel Ranges. At the extreme end of the valley are the giants...Xenicus, Waingora and Aorere Peak, Mt Cobb and Mt Gibbs ranging from 1500-1900 meters. There was a slight dusting of snow on all the higher ground which enhanced the feeling of height. 

Looking towards Mt Benson from the Cobb Valley Track

Fresh snow on the Lockett Range, from the Cobb Valley Track

Pt. 1639 from the Cobb Valley Track

I made quite good time along the track as this first section is fairly flat going. I was the only person walking up the valley at that time although I did spot some hunters ahead of me as I closed with the Cobb Tent Shelter. 

This first section of track is the longest as you cover the initial 6-7 kilometers and takes a couple of hours. After this the distance between huts grows less so it feels like you are covering ground more quickly.

Bush tunnel along the Cobb Valley Track

The bridge over Myttons Creek, Cobb Valley Track

A DOC sign for Myttons Creek, Cobb Valley Track

Cobb Valley Track: skirting beech forest past Myttons Creek

In the middle of the section between Trilobite and Chaffeys Hut is a gorge on the Cobb River...the track climbs high above it but you can still see the dramatic and picturesque change it makes to the river. This would be a good camping spot with some flat dry shelves lining the river through here. 

You cross numerous moraine deposits on the Cobb Valley Track

Looking down on the Cobb River Gorge

Plenty of fine camping spots along the Cobb Valley Track

I gradually got closer to the first hut Chaffeys Hut about two hours up the valley and enjoyed the warm rays of the sun as I covered the distance to the hut...

There is plenty of flat track in the Cobb Valley

Here are some photos of the different terrain types you will pass in this valley ranging from thick forest right through to wide open grasslands. It is this variety that makes the trip so enjoyable...

The Cobb Valley Track has forest....

...extensive red tussock fields...

...and open grassland country on the Cobb Valley Track

I saw numerous traps along the sides of the Cobb Valley Track...there is a dedicated trapping team run in this valley by a citizen group based in Golden Bay. They are using the full gambit of traps including DOC 200's, spring traps and those new gas operated traps. 

There is an intensive tramping program in the Cobb Valley

Open forest approaching Chaffeys Hut, Cobb Valley Track

This area was subject to glacial action during the past with many huge glaciers that reached almost as far as Takaka on the coast. You can see evidence of it all around you...moraines, U-valleys, hanging valleys, Roche Moutonees, glacial erratic's and glacial spoil piles. 

It also has a interesting geological history so there were interesting rock specimens everywhere include massive chunks of quartz, iron deposits, exposed coal seams and hunks of exposed asbestos everywhere. Asbestos was mined in the Takaka River Valley on the other side of the Peel Range up to the 1960's. 

A glacial erratic along the Cobb Valley Track

After an hour and 45 minutes of walking Chaffey Hut came into view through the trees. Chaffey Hut was built in 1957 by the then NZFS as a deer cullers hut. It was built on site using beech poles and hand hewn cladding so it has a distinctive 'olde time' look about it. 

First view of Chaffeys Hut, Cobb Valley Track

Chaffeys Hut in the Cobb River Valley

The hut has bunks for three people, an open fireplace and a small amount of living space inside. It was once derelict but was lovingly restored by some DOC staff in the 2000's and is regularly used by people walking up the valley. There is a picnic table outside so I stopped here for a break and talked to the young French couple who had stayed in the hut over night

Hand hewn timber cladding on Chaffeys Hut

An interpretive panel inside Chaffeys Hut

Beech pole bunks inside Chaffeys Hut, Cobb Valley

The hut is no longer maintained by DOC but is looked after by several volunteer groups from local tramping clubs. It is quirky and interesting so I hope people keep maintaining the hut into the future because this type of hut is becoming rarer every year...

Chaffeys Hut is now maintained by volunteers...

I would think about staying here some time just to soak up the rustic feel of the hut...

Chaffeys Hut: detail of the interior...

Chaffeys Hut: the bunk near the front door

View into the interior of Chaffeys Hut, Cobb Valley

I spent around 15 minutes at the hut and then packed up my gear and set off for the Cobb Tent Camp about an hour and a half further up the valley. The track going up valley started right outside the door...

Final view of the historic Chaffeys Hut, Cobb Valley Track

View of the Cobb River from near Chaffeys Hut

BTW...if you stay at Chaffeys Hut go have a swim in the nearby river. There is a nice looking swimming hole close to the hut that trampers have made over the decades and this is also the water source for the hut so gather your water above the swimming hole. 

Chaffey Hut to Fenella Hut:

From Chaffeys Hut it is about 4 kilometers or 1-1.5 hours tramping to reach the Cobb Tent Camp further up river. Again it is a series of grass flats interspaced with overgrown moraine walls and piles of erratic rocks dumped by past glaciers. 

Map: Cobb Valley- Chaffeys Hut to Fenella Hut

My Atmos 50l next to Chaffey Hut, Cobb Valley

Another 2-3 hours to Fenella Hut...from Chaffeys Hut

Heading to the Cobb Tent Camp on the Cobb Valley Track

Once over Chaffey Stream you start to get better views of the upper end of the Cobb Valley and both Xenicus Peak and Aorere Peak grow in size with each additional step you take. These two peaks really dominate the skyline at the top of the valley. 

Mt Prospect and Pt. 1512 from near Chaffeys Hut

There is a lovely looking bridge over Chaffeys Stream just north of the hut...this would also be a nice spot for a tent campsite if you were looking for more solitude than the huts and established campsites can offer. 

The Chaffey Stream Bridge, Cobb Valley Track

Chaffey Stream from the Cobb Valley Track

View back to Chaffey Hut from the bridge...

About thirty minutes past Chaffeys Hut you climb up onto an old lateral moraine wall and follow this for about a kilometer. This must be one of the more recent glacial remnants as there are no large trees growing here only Makuka and Kanuka trees. There are some fantastic views back down the valley over the top of the forest....

The Cobb Valley Track climbs old moraine walls...

The bush peters out along the 900 meter line, Cobb Valley Track

Cobb Valley Track: crossing a lateral moraine near Chaffey Stream

One of the quirky feature of this track are the section of almost cobble like stepping stones. There are a number of these in the upper valley most of which are clustered around Fenella Hut,  someone has obviously spent a lot of time and effort on them over the years. 

They are a nice feature of the track...

Stepping stones along the Cobb Valley Track

A huge exposed hunk of asbestos along the Cobb Valley Track

At several places along this track you can see down to the flats around the Cobb River. You really could camp anywhere along here and not see another soul the whole time...you would need to bush bash to get down to the flats....

View of the Cobb River from the Cobb Valley Track

View into the Upper Cobb Valley, Cobb Valley Track

Just past Pt. 1512 you get your first clear view of the Upper Cobb Valley including a good view of Xenicus Peak up near Fenella Hut. From here you are less than two hours to Fenella Hut.....

 Xenicus Peak at the head of the Cobb Valley, Kahurangi NP

Skirting beech forest on the mid reaches of the Cobb Valley Track

View back down the Cobb Valley from near Pt. 1512

It was about this point around three hours into the tramp that my legs started to feel tired so I stopped for another 10 minute break in a handy patch of bush. I should probably have stopped for lunch but when you are so close to your destination you just want to keep going. You should try to resist this temptation and keep up with the walk for 30 minutes then rest for 5 minutes cycle....

Much of the Cobb Valley is old mature forest

On an old dray road in the Cobb River Valley...

Eventually you start to get close to the Cobb Tent Camp...just before you reach it are two grass clearings...there is a nice formed gravel track so when you strike it you are about 1 kilometer or 20 minutes walk to the Cobb Tent Camp.

Crossing river flats on the way to the Cobb Tent Camp....

Xenicus Peak grows larger at the end of the Cobb Valley Track

Cobb Valley Track: there are numerous small streams...

You cross one more moraine wall and find yourself in the clearing holding the Cobb Tent Camp shelter. Tent shelters were a common sight in the bush back in the 1970-1990s as many of these temporary deer culler shelters still existed then. 

Most have gone over the years as the canvas the tents are made from deteriorated. There are two tent camps in Kahurangi NP...this one and the nearby Soper Shelter in the Waingaro River Valley. There are also a few up in the North Island in the Kaimanawa, Kaweka and Ruahine Ranges.

A section of goblin forest on the Cobb Valley Track

First view of the Cobb Tent Camp, Cobb Valley Track

A tent shelter is a framework of Beech poles with a heavy duty canvas cover over the top...basically a tent in the shape of a hut. They were used by the NZFS, Department of Internal Affairs and DOC for temporary deer culler quarters in regions without huts. If the deer population was large enough a hut would be built to replace it but often these tent shelters were left in situ as additional accommodation or just because it cost more to remove them. 

The Historic Cobb Tent Camp, Cobb Valley, Kahurangi NP

Tent shelters tend to have the same design features...dirt floored with a closed in sleeping area with 2-3 mattresses, a separate living space with a wood burner or iron fireplace and overhangs on both sides to store equipment and firewood. This one also has a picnic table outside with a large fire pit, a meat locker hanging in the trees,  a toilet and wood shed. I would have stayed here for a night but it was already occupied by a couple of local hunters and their dog. 

Interior of the Cobb Tent Camp...Kahurangi NP

Information panels inside the Cobb Tent Camp...Kahurangi NP

I stopped for 10 minutes and had a chat with the hunters who were from Blenheim...they were going to go hunting up near Camp Lake and then move to Cobb Hut about 45 minutes up the valley the next day. They had a really handsome hunting dog with them although they are not really allowed in National Parks in New Zealand. 

I gave it a pat of course....

Crossing a stream near Cobb Tent Camp, Kahurangi NP

More paving on the Cobb Valley Track

After ten minutes I set out on the last leg of my tramp to Cobb Hut and onwards to Fenella Hut. The forest changed past Cobb Tent Camp and went from mixed Beech forest onto a more lush sub alpine forest with stunted trees, lots of moss and exposed rock formations. 

Crossing the Cobb River past the Tent Camp...

Upper Cobb River, Cobb Valley

Cobb Valley Track: a Dracophyllum Traversii tree along the track

There are a lot of Dracophyllum or Mountain Neinei trees in the Upper Cobb Valley...some of them were big. I saw one grove of trees which were easily 15 meters high, 30-40 cm around the trunk and luxuriantly thick with foliage..by far the largest examples of these species I have ever seen. 

Closer view of the Dracophyllum Traversii or Mountain Neinei

Cobb Hut sits on a small plateau nestled between Mt Cobb, Xenicus Peak and the end of the Lockett Range. The last 15 minutes walk to the hut is over a mix of moraine fields, thin forest and open tussock areas. There are section of boardwalk along here...not to make the track easier but to control erosion at key points. 

The Cobb Valley Track climbs to Cobb Hut

Boardwalk on the way to Cobb Hut, Kahurangi NP

Xenicus Peak from the Cobb Valley Track

The Cobb Valley Track climbing to Cobb Hut

The sub alpine forest is quite beautiful on the plateau with a mixture of stunted Pole Beech, Mountain Beech, Mountain Neinei, Manuka and small Totora trees. There is a bridge over one of the small streams about 30 meters from Cobb Hut so you will know it is close when you see it. 

Sub alpine forest on the way to Cobb Hut

...as well as red tussock fields....

Crossing the bridge just before Cobb Hut...

First view of Cobb Hut, Cobb Valley Track

It took me about 45 minutes to walk from Cobb Tent Camp to Cobb Hut mainly because it is uphill all the way. Cobb Hut is a small four bunk hut built in the 1950s for deer cullers working this end of the Cobb Valley. It is still in good condition and available to stay in. Unfortunately DOC removed the fire a couple of years ago so it is an icebox in Winter and during early Spring. 

Cobb Hut in the Upper Cobb Valley

View of the veranda at Cobb Hut, Cobb Valley

This hut is in much better condition than Myttons Hut built around the same time probably because it gets a lot of use so is allocated more maintenance dollars. It has little space inside so if you were staying you are going to be spending a bit of time outside using the picnic table and fire pit. There is a toilet and wood shed (even without the fireplace) and water is from a small stream 20 odd meters away. 

Interior of Cobb Hut, Cobb Valley, Kahurangi NP

Two of the four bunks in Cobb Hut

From Cobb Hut it is 750 meters or 20-30 minutes walk to Fenella Hut just to the north of Cobb Hut. The track to both Lake Cobb and Fenella Hut starts right behind the hut in a large tussock filled clearing. 

If you are visiting Cobb Hut you really must go visit the interesting dam workings at the outlet of Lake Cobb. When they were building the main Cobb Dam in the late 1940's they built a coffer dam up here to temporarily stop the flow of the river. The dam is still there as are some of the dam workings.....

The track to Fenella Hut goes past Cobb Hut

Cobb Valley Track: junction of the routes to Cobb Lake and Fenella Hut

Fenella Hut is on the saddle in the middle distance...

The track from here to Fenella Hut requires a bit of climbing including a small section where you need to scramble hand over hand. Generally it is easy walking and took me about 25 minutes to cover the distance. Make sure you stop and take in the scenic views of the Upper Cobb Valley on the way to the hut...there are a number of places to stop and take excellent photos of the area. 

Crossing a stream on the way to Fenella Hut

Beautiful forest near Cobb Hut, Kahurangi NP

One of many streams near Fenella Hut, Kahurangi NP

Some rock scrambling required to reach Fenella Hut

View of the Upper Cobb Valley from near Fenella Hut

You are climbing up to another flat plateau around the hut site which is filled with old silted up tarns that are now boggy tussock fields. You pass several cascades as well as streams and small creeks but all of them are bridged so access is assured even in wet weather...

Cobb Valley Track: climbing to Fenella Hut

Waingaro Peak from near Fenella Hut, Kahurangi NP

Alpine forest and tussock surround Fenella Hut

A cascade along the Cobb Valley Track near Fenella

Someone has taken great care in building a series of lovely rock lined paths over the plateau and this section of the track is much easier walking as a result. It winds in and out of the forest and across the boggy sections of the plateau you are crossing...

 

A nicely constructed causeway near Fenella Hut

A nice stone pathway on the approach to Fenella hut

The extensive tussockland around Fenella Hut

Many great destinations in the Upper Cobb Valley

Arriving at Fenella Hut, Cobb Valley, Kahurangi National Park

Eventually I arrived at Fenella Hut after walking for about 5 hours so I would have to rate the track times as fairly accurate on the way in from the road end. I was the only person at the hut which surprised me but I sure was glad to see it after a long days tramping.  It was blissful to get that pack off my back and to sit down in the warm sun on the Fenella Hut Veranda.

Around Fenella Hut:

I was staying at Fenella Hut for two nights as I spent the next day exploring the surrounding area and lazing in the sun outside the hut. Fenella Hut is in a lovely location with a fringe of forest surrounding the hut site and large flat grassland backing that. You are surrounded on all side by snow capped 1500+ meter mountains so there is plenty to look at. 

DOC sign for Fenella Hut, Cobb Valley, Kahurangi NP

Fenella Hut is another memorial hut...it was built by the friends and family of Fenella Druce who was killed when the Three Johns Hut blew off a ridge in Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park in the mid 1970's. Fenella and three other people were killed and her whanau built the hut in a place where the family like to visit when she was young. It is a sad story but also a fitting tribute to a trampers memory...

It is really quirky...the shape, size and fittings in the hut are all non standard including a strange sleeping platform with balustrades, sliding interior doors, a big wet room, sets of pots and pans, a gas stove and stained glass windows in the hut toilet. It is a awesome hut and the kind I especially enjoy with lots of wood inside and big windows to let the sun in. 

The food preparation area at Fenella Hut, Cobb Valley

Sleeping platforms at Fenella Hut:, Cobb Valley

Fenella Hut: there is a gas stove at the hut....

Adding to the quirky nature of this hut I found a pair of Bullers in the wet room at the rear of the hut. Bullers were a type of laced rubber tramping boot well favored by trampers, hunters and farmers in the late 1970's and early 1980's. 

They were actually excellent tramping boots for New Zealand conditions...robust, cheap, hard wearing and comfortable to wear. I actually have a pair given to me by my ex father in-law.....another classic bit of trampers gear no longer in use.

A pair of classic Buller boots in the wet room at Fenella Hut

After I finished my camp chores like cleaning the hut, chopping some fire wood and setting up my pit I finally sat down to a well deserved late lunch and a big brew as a chaser. I spent the rest of the afternoon sitting on the lovely sunny veranda enjoying the surrounds and reading my new Kindle Karen brought me for my birthday. 

I sat on the veranda at Fenella Hut for most of the afternoon

Nice stone path leading to Fenella Hut, Cobb Valley

Later in the afternoon my hut companions arrived...three women from Nelson/Richmond who regularly come into the hut to enjoy the surrounding country. They were all in their mid to late 60's and fit as a fiddle which is what I aspire to be like at a similar age. I think the key is to keep going out there to maintain the fitness needed for this vigorous hobby. 

They shared the hut with me for the next two nights and they were fine tramping hut mates. We exchanged information about Canterbury and Tasman tramps, family, work and general chit chat. I couldn't have asked for better companions really...one of the things I most like about tramping is the people you meet. 

Looking towards Aorere Peak from Fenellas Hut, Cobb Valley

So that was the end to a great tramping day...good weather, fine scenery, easy walking, good hut and good hut mates. I really enjoyed the experience and have added a return to this area to my future plans. I will spend more time here next time so I am able to make the most of the various adventures to be had in this valley. 

Come back soon and see what I got up to in part two of my Cobb Valley trip where I walked up to Fenella's tarn and explored the local area before heading back down the valley on the last day of my tramp. 

See you soon.....

Access: Turn off SH 60 at Upper Takaka. Drive 35 km's past the power station to the Cobb Reservoir. Follow the road to the far end of Cobb Reservoir and the carpark at Trilobite Hut. The Cobb Valley Track starts right next to the car park.

Track Times: From Trilobite Hut its is 1-1.5 hours to Chaffey Hut. Chaffey Hut to Cobb Tent Camp is 1.5 hour, Cobb Tent Camp to Cobb Hut is 1 hour and Cobb Hut to Fenella Hut is 30 minutes. Total of 4.5-5 hours from the road end to Fenella Hut
Hut Details: Trilobite Hut: Serviced, 16 bunks, wood burner, woodshed, toilet, water from tank, Chaffey Hut: Basic, 4 bunks, water from stream, open fire, woodshed, toilet; Cobb Tent Camp: Basic (historic canvas tent hut), 3 mattresses, water from stream, fire pit, toilet, meat safe; Cobb Hut: Standard, 4 bunks, water from stream, open fire, woodshed, toilet; Fenella Hut: Serviced, 12 bunks, water from tank, wood burner, woodshed, toilet 

Miscellaneous: Cobb Valley Road is long, narrow, winding gravel and extreme care is needed when using it. Do not visit if there has been a major wind/rain/snow event as the road/track will be impassable. 

Havelock: Resupplying while on the Te Araroa Trail

Havelock as a Te Araroa Trail resupply point...

I recently passed through Havelock near Pelorous Sound on my way to a tramping trip in Kahurangi National Park. I stopped and took some photos of the town and its supermarket as I thought it might be useful to investigate the town as a potential resupply point.

The main street of Havelock in Marlborough Province...

Havelock is half way between Anakiwa at the end of the Queen Charlotte Track and Pelorous Bridge the entrance to the Richmond Ranges. You would be arriving here on day 6-8 of a SOBO trek or day 8-10 of a NOBO trip from St Arnaud so you will be needing an urgent resupply.

Map: Havelock is half way between Anakiwa and Pelorous Bridge

Havelock is the only place close to the trail you can resupply before starting the next two sections of the trail as both Anakiwa and Pelorous Bridge are small settlements.  You used to be able to send drop boxes to Pelorous Bridge campground but this service is no longer available. Your only other option is to hitch to Blenheim about 40 odd kilometres away.

Pelorous Sound from the northern outskirts of Havelock

Havelock is small...less than 300 permanent residents as it is simply a service center for the forestry, farming, factory fishing and holiday industries which exist nearby. There is one petrol station, a medium sized supermarket, some restaurants/cafes, retail shops and other infrastructure to support the local community.

Map: Street map of Havelock, Pelorous Sound

One thing Havelock is famous for are the extensive mussel and salmon farms in nearby Pelorous and Kenepuru Sounds. If you are visiting or staying in Havelock make sure you have some mussels..there are several places selling them and they are really good. 

A visit to the Mussel Pot Cafe is a Te Araroa institution...

There is enough in Havelock for a reasonable rest/lay day but if you needed more than basic food resupply, accommodation or meals you need to hitch to Blenheim. Anyway...lets have a look at what Havelock has to offer the TA trekker...

Four Square Havelock:

Havelock has only the one food store and that is the Four Square supermarket on the corner of SH6 and Neil Street. Four Square supermarkets are very common in smaller towns such as this...they are independently owned but buy goods as a co-operative so they are able to charge similar prices to the big chains. 

The Four Square supermarket in Havelock, Marlborough

The Havelock Four Square supermarket is well stocked and it has almost every item you will need to do a full resupply before you continue your journey. Taking a look at a selection of items the prices are almost the same as in any larger supermarket in a big town or city. 

Havelock Four Square:Chilled food section, fruit and vegetables

Havelock Four Square:a full spread of cured meats...

There are a couple of taverns in Havelock but no liquor outlets so the closest thing you have is the alcohol selection at the supermarket. They have a good range of beer, wine and cider for sale but as with all supermarkets in New Zealand no spirits. There is an off licence at the Havelock Hotel if spirits are your thing.....they have limited hours so check to see when they are open. 

Havelock Four Square:beer, sparkling wine and cider...

Havelock Four Square:various wines, snack nuts and potato chips...

Probably the best way to describe to you what they have in stock is simply to show you. Here are a series of photos of all of the shelves in the Havelock Four Square so you can see for yourself...

Havelock Four Square:crackers, biscuits,cereal...

Havelock Four Square:they have a comprehensive Muesli bar selection...

Havelock Four Square:juice, powdered drinks, soda, iced tea...

Havelock Four Square: a good spread of fish in packets and cans, soup, beans etc.

They had a good selection of bread, wraps, tortillas, pastries etc. so plenty of scope for lunches and no cook dinner meals....

Havelock Four Square:they had bread, wraps, croissant and pastries

Havelock Four Square:teas, coffee, cocoa etc.

Havelock Four Square:dried fruit, nuts and eggs...

They had a selection of the most popular Backcountry freeze dried meals including the fancy muesli and porridge meals. There was also a comprehensive selection of those Continental, Maggi and San Remo pasta side dishes. Plenty of noodles, rice, pasta, instant mash and Mexican meal items....

Havelock Four Square:pasta, rice, sidemeals,  noodles and Backcountry meals

Lots of chocolate including some of the fancy brands for those of you who carry when out on trail.....not me. I only very occasionally carry chocolate and if I am it will be Whittakers sante bars, Snickers or peanut M & M's.

I am more of a savoury guy...chips, olives, cheese, salted nuts, jerky are more my style.

Havelock Four Square:lots of chocolate...

Havelock Four Square: chocolate, sweets, powdered milk etc.

The Four Square had a fairly comprehensive selection of hardware including Meths (for Trangia type cookers), candles, matches and storage bags. What they did not have were any gas canisters..I specifically looked for them but there were none in the store. 

This is problematic as there is no source of them before you enter the Richmond Ranges so you either need to carry them with you from Picton or go 'no cook' on this section of the trail. They may sell them at the service station in Havelock...I will have a look the next time I am passing through. 

Havelock Four Square:hardware, cleaners, meths etc.

Havelock Four Square:storage bags/containers, stationary, tape....

The town may be small but the Four Square in Havelock would be more than capable of resupplying you for your next sections of the trail. They have enough variety to cater for a range of tastes and I am sure you will be able to find something in store to see you through to your next resupply point. 

Bars & eateries in Havelock:

Havelock is on SH6 the main road between Blenheim and Nelson so it has a number of cafes, restaurants and bars to cater to the people passing through. Most of these are clustered around the main road but there are a couple of eateries down by the Marina as well.

The Havelock Marina, Marlborough Sounds

One of the things you should try if you are in Havelock are some green lipped Mussels...they are farmed in the local areas and are damn delicious. Probably the best place for these is the Mussel Pot a well known TA tradition. They do a variety of lunch and dinner meals with an emphasis on seafood...go for the steamed mussels in white wine with crusty bread...yum!!!

They also do non-seafood meals so check out their online menu...

The Mussel Pot steamed mussels.....marvelous!!!

Another place I have eaten lunch is the Captains Daughter a brasserie style cafe, restaurant and bar close to the supermarket. The meal I had was very nice and the cafe has a nice ambiance to it...it was busy as it is the most obvious eatery in the town so you should probably book in for dinner. Prices were moderate and well within a modest budget. 

The Captains Daughter is a cafe/bar in Havelock...

 I have also heard good things about the Mills Bay Mussel Tasting Company they are a Mussel factory farming business but have a retail store and cafe located near the Marina. Dine in or take away options are available. I am going to visit the next time I am heading through Havelock.

Mills Bay Mussels Tasting Room and Eatery

There are a couple of other cafes and restaurants in the town but as I have not sampled their wares I cannot comment on the quality. 

If you are looking to wet your whistle there are three bars in Havelock...the first is the Captains Daughter, there is also the Havelock Hotel and the Slip Inn Brasserie and Bar. All three have websites so have a look to see when they are open. 

The Slip Inn Brasserie and Bar at the Havelock Marina

Apart from the places I have mentioned it is Muggins choice...go have a look at the menus at different places and choose one that suits your taste and budget.

Accommodation in Havelock

Havelock is a days walk from both Anakiwa and the start of the Richmond Range at Pelorous Bridge so it is a good spot for a rest/lay day.

You are going to need somewhere to stay. There are a range of accommodation options in the town ranging from campgrounds right up to top of the line lodges, hotels and holiday homes. The cheapest is the Havelock Holiday Park with tent sites, cabins and dorm style rooms. They have a dining/cooking hall and facilities like showers and laundry services.

Havelock Holiday Park has tent sites and camp facilities...

Moving up the price range there are a couple of Bed and Breakfast places in Havelock which provide accommodation and a morning meal. There are also several motels scattered at various places in the town and if you are a squillionaire there are a couple of high end Lodges.

The Havelock Garden Motel is right in the center of town...

My best advice would be to look at the TA Trail notes for this section and check out the blogs of TA alumni to get their recommendations for good places to stay. 

Miscellaneous information about Havelock and Marlborough:

The closest city with a full range of retail, accommodation and administrative services is Blenheim approximately 40 odd kilometers south along SH 6. Blenheim has around 30 000 residents so it has everything you might need including several big supermarkets, outdoor retail outlets, a hospital, an airport, fast food outlets (KFC/Subway/MacDonalds) and an area DOC office.

Blenheim is the closest city to Havelock...

You can hitch or take public transport (shuttles) to Blenheim or Nelson and some of them will drop you at the Pelorous Bridge camp ground if needed. This would save you one day of mostly road walking on a narrow and very busy highway. 

The campground and camp shelter at Pelorous Bridge Reserve

There is a pharmacy in Havelock which may be able to help you with basic medical requirements such as tape, bandages and over the counter medication. There is also a small museum and the area around the marina is worth visiting to see the various yachts and motor vessels tied up there.

There is a small museum in Havelock...

Heading SOBO you will head to Canvastown before joining Daltons Road all the way to the camp ground at Pelorous Bridge on the edge of the Richmond Ranges. NOBO you have a mix of  track and road walking to Anakiwa at the southern end of the Queen Charlotte Track. Both are one days walk or around 20 kilometres away. 

Anakiwa...the southern terminus of the Queen Charlotte Track

So...hopefully some of that information will be useful to you as you do your planning for your trek of the Te Araroa Trail.