Walking in Hanmer Forest Park, 30 May 2015

 A walk in the woods Hanmer Spring style...

 Kathryn and I took the kids and one of Georgia's friends up to Hanmer for the Queens Birthday weekend. It was a bit cold so I was the only brave soul who elected to go for a walk over the weekend. As Mt Isobel was covered with snow and the weather was a bit iffy, I went for a 2 hour walk in Hanmer Forest Park instead.

On a track deep inside Hanmer Forest Park

All of the tracks in the local forest start from the car-park by the old Ranger Headquarters. There are tracks on both sides of the road which take from 30 minutes to 4 hours.  The Hanmer Forest Park is awesome, I thoroughly recommend a walk here if you ever find yourself in Hanmer Springs.

Car-park outside the Hanmer Forest ranger station

On the Hanmer Forest Journey Track

The start of the track is the most developed section of track, all of the short and longer tracks start here. They are primarily walking tracks but I have encountered MTB riders on these tracks before.



Hanmer Forest Park Entrance

Hanmer Forest Park track network map

Start of the Forest Amble Track, Hanmer Forest

The forest park is a curious cross section of different timber species. They have been planted in this area as trial plots by NZFS, and latter forest owners. The selection runs the gamut from Aspen to Pine, Redwood, Spruce, Fir, Beech and Cypress.

Nice wide clear track in  Hanmer Forest

There is plenty of clear signage in the forest. It has got much better since Ngai Tahu (the local Maori Iwi) took over ownership of the forest as part of their Treaty of Waitangi Settlement. They seem to have put a bit of money and manpower into maintenance of the track network.

Start of Forest Walk track, Hanmer Forest

There are a number of interpretive panels alongside the tracks, these speak to the various tree species as well as general information about the forest. This is a commercial forest, although I think the part closest to the road has some kind of Historic Place covenant on its use.

Hanmer Forest: One of the interpretive signs on the track

As you travel along you strike a lot of these small bridges over the drainage network in the Forest. I've never seen any water in the ditches but it must happen occasionally.

One of the bridges over a drainage ditch, Hanmer Forest

There are a mixture of walking and MTB tracks in the Forest, sometimes it is hard to tell them apart.

Hanmer Forest: start of the Forest Journey

Me half way round the Forest Journey, Hanmer Forest

Hanmer Forest: Moving along the track

Another bridge for walkers/MTB'ers, Hanmer Forest

Hanmer Forest: Looking East at a track junction

Yes, it was very quiet in the forest, I only passed 3 walkers and 2 MTB'ers the whole time I was there. As I said, it was really cold in Hanmer over that weekend.

 Hanmer Forest: Looking West towards road

Hanmer Forest: Toadstool near the side of the track

I stopped at this nice seat after an hour of walking for a drink and just to take in the surroundings. It was so tranquil listening to the sound of the wind in the trees, and smelling the scent of pine resin.

Nice seat for a scroggin stop, Hanmer Forest

This beast is only 15 years old!

On the track back to the car park

The last part of the track runs alongside the road, on its way back to the Ranger Station and car park. The entire Forest Journey only takes about 1.5 -2 hours but it is very nice walking amongst these trees. Well worth a visit!

Access: From Hanmer Springs head east out of town on Jollies Pass Road, the start of the tracks are 2 km's out of town

Track Times: Forest Journey 1.5-2 hours total

Miscellaneous: Toilets and map board located at the Ranger Station/Park Headquarters at car park

Buyers Tips: Personal Locator Beacon's (PLB)

Tips when purchasing a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB)

 Beside tramping boots a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) will probably be one of the most expensive pieces of kit in any tramper's arsenal. They are also known as Rescue Beacons, EPIRB's or Safety Beacons. With prices ranging from $350 right up to $1300 they are a piece of kit which requires some research and thought before buying. 

Tramper with a GME Personal Locator Beacon...

I recently brought a PLB, so here are a few tips I discovered while researching my purchase.

What is a PLB and how does it work?

 In basic terms, a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) is an electronic safety device that when activated sends a distress signal to a satellite. The satellite system informs the rescue authorities in your location who then initiate a Search and Rescue (SAR) operation to come to your assistance. This is a very basic description of the process but you get the main idea... 

The PLB activation sequence...what happens!!!

Most rescue missions are undertaken by a helicopter as it is the fastest and most direct way to gain access to the person who set the beacon off. The usual response time is 2-4 hours but it can take much longer. There are only a few SAR helicopters on duty and they may be busy and need to triage who they assist first. Also a helicopter cannot fly in adverse conditions in which case a much longer ground rescue might be the response. 

The Westpac Rescue Helicopter's undertake many rescues in the South Island

SAR responses will also be undertaken by boat, vehicle or on foot depending on the location and resources. The SAR Rescue Center will make a decision on how the rescue is carried out taking into account all the information they have at their command.  

Please note: There are two frequencies PLB's operate on: 122.5 Mhz and 406 Mhz. Only 406 Mhz beacons are monitored in New Zealand so please check if your PLB will work here if you are visiting from another country.

Why buy a PLB?

What a personal locator beacon offers is a measure of security. If you or a member of your party has an accident which precludes walking then this is your quickest means of summoning assistance. Why wait for days when using your PLB could mean assistance within hours.

A SAR rescue operation in progress in 2015

 

While PLB's are useful for all outdoor folk they should probably be required equipment for solo tramper's. When you tramp solo you are completely reliant on your own abilities/actions to get home so if you get injured you will not be able to self rescue. In cases like these having a PLB could be the difference between life and death...

Where should I buy?

Most PLB buyers will purchase their beacon from a local hunting, boating or outdoor shop. It is probably preferable to buy local as warranties and servicing will be easier to obtain. I have brought my beacon from Hunting & Fishing here in Christchurch but they are sold at most of the major outdoor retailers including Bivouac, Macpac, Kathmandu, Hutch Wilco and Torpedo 7. 

Hunting & Fishing Tower Junction...

There are also a number of on-line New Zealand based suppliers, Aviation Safety Supplies Ltd is the most well known but they are also available from online retailers like Gearshop.  You can buy your beacon on-line from overseas but be aware that they will need to be re-programmed to work in this country, this costs approximately $120.

Common brands and prices

There are numerous brands and types of beacon's available, I will discuss several of the most common brands I have encountered while tramping in New Zealand:

ACR ResQLink:

One of the larger locator beacon manufacturers is ACR, with their ResQLink beacon. Importantly the ACR ResQLink is the beacon used by the Police, Armed Forces, NZ Search and Rescue (SAR) and the Southland Locator Beacon Charity.

ACR ResQLink PLB

 

The company produces a number of beacons, the more expensive are GPS capable. GPS capability means that the potential search radius is much smaller as GPS units are accurate to 10-30 meters. Non GPS equipped beacons have a 100 meters radius by comparison. That might not sound like much but 100 meters is a huge area to search in rough, broken or thickly forested areas. You want a GPS capable beacon!

Standard pricing ranges from $500-$700 depending on the retailer. 

Fast Find McMurdo:

Another brand is the McMurdo 220, they are smaller than the ACR beacons but have very similar features.

McMurdo Fast Find 220 PLB

 These beacons float which is an important factor to consider when using it in the wet New Zealand back-country. I have been told it is slightly more difficult to extend the antenna on these, but have not tried myself. Again, these range in price from $530-$700 depending on where you purchase the unit.

Ocean Signal RescueMe PLB1:

Ocean Signal is a well known manufacturer of safety equipment for boaters and the sea faring set and one of the items they produce are PLB/EPIRB's. An EPIRB is a Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon...they work much the same as a PLB using satellites to send a rescue position to the authorities but they operate on the 121.5 Mhz range and tend to be larger and heavier than ground use PLB's. They have a longer battery life (typically 10 years) and most have the ability to automatically deploy when the vessel sinks. Their weight and size generally make them unsuitable for trampers. 

An Ocean Signal EPIRB device

One of the other devices the company produces is the RescueMe PLB1 which is currently the smallest and lightest PLB device on the market. They also have the longest battery life at 7 years. I have seen more and more of these units being carried by trampers and they are becoming one of the main PLB suppliers.

Prices for an Ocean Signal PLB1 are slightly more than some of the others brands with a standard price of around $600-$700. If these units were a little cheaper they would be my recommended device...it is hard to go past the lower weight and size of these. 

AccuSat GME MT410G:

I have seen a couple of people with AccuSat GME beacons, cost is around $500 from Aviation Safety Supplies based in Hamilton. They have a hard protective outer casing on them, an excellent feature as PLB's tend to get knocked around. Because of this they are slightly heavier than the ACR and McMurdo Beacons.

GME MT410G PLB

I believe they are aimed at the boating community more than tramper's but they basically work the same way so can be used for terrestrial as well as aquatic environments..

Here is some info from their site:

"The MT410 and MT410g provide the aviator and or the outdoor adventurer with a 406 MHz PLB that is not only affordable, but provides enhanced peace of mind for boaters, bush walkers, 4 x 4 enthusiasts and aviators should they ever require emergency assistance."

SPOT Find Me:

You can buy a Spot Find Me for around $300, and they are the smallest and lightest of the five PLB's shown here. They have excellent GPS enabled tracking functions and allow for pre-programmed messages to be sent to designated people.

SPOT Find Me PLB

    One negative feature is a US  $150 per annum fee to register it...so you would be looking at $1200 for the 6 year battery life of the unit. Worth considering if the ability to message your loved ones is important to you.

Garmin inReach and inReach Mini:

The last of the brands of beacon worth discussing is the Garmin inReach and inReach Mini...these are a hybrid between a PLB and a messaging device. They act much like a SPOT device with the ability to send AND receive messages via satellite...obviously this is a very useful ability. Importantly there is no need for an annual payment to use the service which makes them a more economical option. 

These Garmin devices have an SOS function allowing you to summon assistance in the manner of a PLB. The most capable model is also a GPS unit with the ability to load topographic maps and track information. I can see these devices eventually dominating the market BUT the downside is that they are currently quite expensive with prices ranging from $600-$1300 depending on model. 

My beacon: ACR ResQLink

In the end I decided to buy a ACR ResQLink and there were three main reasons for this:

PLB size comparison: McMurdo, Rescueme and ResQLink

Familiarity: I have hired these beacons before and found them light and easy to use.

  

Price: I brought mine for $530 from Hunting and Fishing (Ballingers) in Christchurch. This was the best price within New Zealand for a ResQLink PLB, the other suppliers were selling them for up to $630. This was also one of the lower PLB prices regardless of brand.

Functionality: These are the easiest to use of the five beacons: the antenna is easy to extend and requires minimal pressure to do so. The controls are obvious and really simple to use. One feature I really like are the instructions printed on the PLB itself.

The ACR ResQLink in the deployed setting

Personally, I would recommend that every tramping party carry a PLB. The added layer of security they offer is certainly worth the price and weight.

Mt Fyffe, Seaward Kaikoura Range: 13 April 2015

Tramping to a mountain eyrie- Mt Fyffe, Kaikoura

Kathryn, the kids and I were in Kaikoura for a couple of days in the last week of the school holidays. Kaikoura is a small tourist town about 2 hours north of Christchurch and is famous for whale,seal and albatross watching. It also has some of the best diving in New Zealand along its wild, rocky coastline... there is a lot to see and do there.

While we were there I planned a day tramp up Mt Fyffe, a nearby peak. It seemed like a good opportunity to go tramping in an area I seldom visit. Unfortunately a spell of bad weather meant I never made it to the summit, more about that later...

Kaikoura Peninsula from high on Mt Fyffe Track

Heading up Mt Fyffe...into "Storm-ageddon '15"

The Seaward Kaikoura's are big mountains...many are above 1600 metres with a few as high as 2600. In places the flat coastal strip is less than a kilometre wide so the juxtaposition of the two is stark.

These mountains literally fall straight into the sea...

Mt Fyffe is clearly visible from Kaikoura Township, the summit sits at 1600 meters with a 8 bunk DOC hut on a ridge slightly lower down.

Panorama view of Fire-pool Flat and Homestead Spur

The Mt Fyffe Track is actually a 4 W/D access road leading from near the Kowhai River to the summit. You follow this track for the duration of the trip, it is steep but easy walking. It takes 2-3 hours walking to reach Fyffe Hut, another hour from there to the summit.

 I've been to the hut before but not right to the summit of Mt Fyffe.

The Seaward Kaikoura's in mid 2016 as seen from Kaikoura Township

We had rain overnight but when I set off the conditions were ok; calm, blue skies, no wind, warm etc. There was new fresh snow (the first snow of 2015, unseasonably early) on most of the higher peaks in the area. I heard over the radio that there was heavy rain, snow and wind in Christchurch that same morning so I knew I had at least a couple of hours before it reached Kaikoura. 

Mt Fyffe car park...no one is home!

I set off for Mt Fyffe Hut anyway as I believed I could reach it before the storm arrived, with the plan to turn back if the conditions deteriorated.

The Mt Fyffe car-park has a toilet, picnic tables and some areas where you could set up a tent to camp overnight, no water however so you would need to bring it with you. 

DOC track sign for Mt Fyffe area

Mt Fyffe map, red cross marks highest point reached

The track starts climbing right from the start and doesn't let up until you reach the hut about 4 kilometres away after climbing 1100 metres. There are a number of other tracks starting at the same point including the short Hinau Track, Kowhai Hut and the Kowhai-Hapuku route via the Kowhai River gorge.

Here is more information about the Mt Fyffe track network.

 

Locked gate at start of 4 W/D track up Mt Fyffe

The turn off for the hour long Hinau Track starts 5 minutes up the Mt Fyffe access road.

Mt Fyffe: turn off for Hinau Track

The views are spectacular and just get better as you climb up the long spur the road sits on.

First view of Kaikoura plains from Mt Fyffe

The condition of the track basically stays the same the whole way up the track, steep gravel. I understand this is a popular trip for the MTB folks but it would be a brutal climb: its hard enough walking let alone riding. Awesome on the way down though!

Mt Fyffe access road/track

You can just see the weather approaching from the south west in this photo, it is still more than an hour away.

View S-East towards Waiau-Kaikoura Valley from Mt Fyffe

First view of Kaikoura Peninsula from Mt Fyffe

Storm approaching Mt Fyffe from south-west

Northern end of Kaikoura Plain from Mt Fyffe

Another storm making its way up the Kaikoura Coast

About 40 minutes up the track there is a nice resting spot with some good views out to the Kaikoura Plains. A good place to stop for a drink and a snack in the sun. 

View rest area 40 minutes up the Mt Fyffe Track

Close up of Kaikoura Peninsula

After an hour you reach a flat where there is a fire pond (not visible until you are higher up the track) with excellent views over most of Kaikoura. Don't try to drink the water, it is almost certainly polluted!

Fire pool flat on the Mt Fyffe Track

I had a chat with a passing German tramper who was on his way down from the hut. He told me that there was no snow at the hut but that the top of Mt Fyffe was well covered. He had spent a wild and windy night in the hut alone, not even mice for company.

Mt Fyffe: View to the south-east from fire pond flat

After a stop for a drink I continued on up the track, it is less steep as you climb but still hard work. 

Kaikoura Peninsula from 800 meters up Mt Fyffe

After another half hour I reached an exposed part of the track, where I stopped for a rest. Care would be needed here in very strong wind as there is little cover and big drops on both sides of the track. On the way back down I got hit by a wind gust here that would have been at least 100 kph- yikes- not good!

Kowhai River Gorge, Homestead Spur

I continued on for another half hour before I decided to stop to consider my options. I could see a storm rolling up the valley from the south west. This was basically the point of "no return", above here it makes more sense to continue on to the hut than to turn back. 

Storm approaching Kaikoura from the west

Jon on the Mt Fyffe Track

The photos above and below show the deterioration in the weather conditions, by the end of my 10 minute break I had strong wind gusts, rain and sleet assailing me from the approaching storm. As I was still at least an hour from the hut I would effectively be 3-4 hours away from the car if I continued. 

 I reluctantly decided that I had to start for home. 

Homestead  Spur- storms clouds gathering!

You cant see it in this photo but the hut is just past the second highest peak in the right centre of this photo. 

View towards summit of Mt Fyffe from the track

Kaikoura in the distance from Mt Fyffe

View towards Amuri Range from Mt Fyffe

Kowhai River and Kaikoura Plain from Mt Fyffe

As usually happens the rain stopped as I descended back down to the car-park, in fact the sun came out again. Did I make the right decision? Of course, because I have learnt to listen to what my instincts are telling me.They said "...go back Jon, its going to rain....go get some fish and chips instead...". So I did!

 When you tramp solo you have to err on the side of caution. The possibility of being stuck high on a mountain in a snow storm does not bear consideration.

Rain falling at sea off  Kaikoura

View west towards the Inland Kaikoura's

Here is an example of the seats which have been installed at regular spots along the track, generally in places with fine views of the surrounding area. 

One of the benches positioned along the Mt Fyffe Track

It took me about an hour to make it back to the car, being chased there for the last 10 minutes by light rain. By the time I drove back to the house we were staying at it was blowing a gale; high wind, torrential rain, sleet then snow- the whole works.

I was well pleased that I had decided to turn back. 

Last view of Kaikoura Peninsula from Mt Fyffe

It was a good trip, even with the weather and to be recommended. I will have another bash at the track as we are already planning a trip to Kaikoura later in the year when the weather is better. Hopefully, next time I will be able to walk right up to the summit.

NB: No....it rained or was really windy for all of our subsequent trip....no tramping!

This is still on my too do list!

Access: Drive north out of Kaikoura on Ludstone Road; turn right onto Mt Fyffe Road and follow it to its end. The Hapuku road end is 3 km along Parson's Road which leaves State Highway 1, 10 km north of town.

Track Times: From the Kowhai River car park it is 2-3 hours to Mt Fyffe Hut. Another hour will see you on the summit of Mt Fyffe. 2-3 hours return to the car park.

Hut details: Mt Fyffe Hut: standard, 8 bunks, fire box, water tanks, toilet, wood shed (wood provided)

Miscellaneous: Mt Fyffe Hut is located at 1200 metres while the summit is at 1600 metres. The Seaward Kaikoura's are wildly exposed to wind and any weather and get regular and heavy amounts of snow. Be prepared for adverse conditions.