Arthur's Pass Base Weekend: JCs Track on the Bealey River flats, Arthur's Pass

Along the fringe of the Bealey River

I was in Arthur's Pass recently with my partner and we spent some time there going for some day trips while staying in a rented holiday home. There are a multitude of different tracks you can walk as a day tramp so staying in the village and venturing to a new track each day is a great way of maximizing your time. 

The Bealey River flats lay just beyond the rail tracks....

One of the places we visited is the strip of DOC land between the railroad line to Otira and the Bealey River. This area is a part of the National Park and in an attempt to get some use out of the land a short walk has been built along the side of the Bealey River.. 

...Interesting views of the surrounding mountains from near the Bealey River...

The name of this walk is JC's Track....who JC was and why they were important is unknown to me. DOC really need to place an information board down here explaining the who and whys....

 It is a short track but allows you to visit the last three private holiday homes on this land and also lets you get close to the bridge near the Otira tunnel portal. 

JC's Track along the Bealey River

The official entrance and exit to this area is from the DOC camp site near the temporary DOC office but we just crossed over to the walk from down at the eastern end of the village close to our holiday home. There is a pedestrian crossing of the rail lines opposite the Arthur's Pass Alpine Motel.

View towards Mt Bealey from beyond the railway tracks, Arthur's Pass

Rough Creek runs down between Mt Bealey, Lyell Peak and Avalanche Peak

Please take care if using this entrance as you have to cross busy rail lines....watch for trains!!!

Alternately you can walk down to the bridge over Rough Creek on the outskirts of the village and cross under them on the river bed and then turn left and walk back up valley. The bridges are about 100 meters further east along SH 73 heading out of Arthur's Pass.

View east from near Arthur's Pass railroad tracks...

Mt O'Malley rising from the Bealey Valley, Arthur's Pass

From the crossing point you can see all three of the remaining private bach's which once covered this river flat. In 1986 there were still about thirty odd bach's down here...most were originally accommodation for the men digging the Otira Tunnel. They were subsequently on-sold to private buyers who used them for many decades.

All of the bach's were removed from the 1980's onward as lifetime occupation agreements ran out and the land reverted to Department of Conservation control. I imagine the three left here will eventually disappear as well unless they are kept as historical buildings.

Two of the remaining bach's next to the Bealey River

The shuttered red shed below is the closest to the original miners huts which leads me to believe it may be owned by DOC...there is no information in the area so I'm really not sure. It is recently re-painted and has a new solar panel on the roof so.....?????

Another private bach with Mt Aicken in the background

A shuttered bach from Bealey river Flats...

The area in the photo below used to be covered in huts...now it is a nice grassy glade with a track along the edge of the Bealey river and another along the side closest to the railway line. It was very tranquil here as the railway embankment blocks out the traffic sound from SH 73. All you can hear is the gurgle of the river, bird song and the sound of the wind in the trees. There was absolutely no-one about.......

Arthur's Pass: the river flats next to the train station

On JC's Track near the Bealey River, Arthur's Pass

The embankment coming out of the Otira Tunnel was made from spoil removed in the construction of the tunnel. It was also used to flatten out the land between the embankment and the road so the train station is built on tunnel spoil as well.

 As you can see they removed a LOT of rock from under that mountain....

Arthur's Pass: the embankment was made from Otira Tunnel spoil...

There are some really excellent views of the mountains and peaks on the southern side of the Bealey River Valley...places like Mt Bealey, Avalanche Peak and the Rome Ridge. It is worth coming down near the river just to be able to clearly see the waterfalls and magnificent high alpine cirques up Rough Creek..it is BIG country in these parts...

Mt Bealey and Rough Creek from the Bealey River flats, Arthur's Pass

Our holiday home was on Brake Hill which had an excellent view down onto this area...our holiday home is just out of picture to the left on the photo below. The imposing red building in the fore ground is an old engine shed once used to house two Toshiba EO electric trains which once hauled trains through the tunnel from 1968 to 1997.

EO51 and EO45 at the Arthur's Pass train yards in the late 1980's

They were still in use up to the late 1990's at which time they were taken to Wellington for use on the commuter train network. They have now been retired and the remaining unit is operated by a historic railway in the North Island.

They now use diesel trains on the Otira tunnel route with a beefy fan system to extract the diesel fumes. The shed is now a Kiwi Rail workshop and general storage area....

Our holiday home is on the ridge behind the train sheds, Arthur's Pass

There is a small waterfall flowing into the Bealey River from off the side of Mt Aicken...you can see it falling through the trees for a long way up the slope. It is fairly step terrain in Arthur's Pass...glacier cut as recently as 20 000 years ago...which is why many of the walking tracks are closer to climbs.

Small waterfall empties into the Bealey River, Arthur's Pass

I can imagine it would be very nice sitting here in the sun if it wasn't plagued with sand flies...we were OK as it was windy but normally it would be sand fly heaven with all that long grass. Maybe choose a slightly windy day for your visit so they dont irritate you.

Morts Loop is another short track through a small stand of beech trees along the side of the Bealey river and attached to JC's Track. 

Arthur's Pass: Bealey River from the flats between it and the train Station

If you are ever in Arthur's Pass go have a look at the train station...it was built in the 1950's and has some nice murals and paintings inside. The doors to the waiting room are always open so you can easily go have a look by using the underpass tunnel which runs to the station from near the Avalanche Creek toilet block.

Arthur's Pass train station with Mt Bealey in the distance

Rustic seats on the Bealey River Flats, Arthur's Pass

Looking east along the Bealey River Flats, Arthur's Pass:

Sign for JCs track, Arthur's Pass

At the western end of the track is the viaduct and tunnel portal for the rail tunnel to Otira. Construction was started in 1907 but the tunnel was not completed until the 1920's due to a lack of labor and capital during World War One.

You cannot go right up to the portal anymore as Kiwi Rail have built a big fence around it....you can get close though if you dont mind fording the Bealey River down by the viaduct. 

Otira Tunnel viaduct from the Bealey River

Otira Tunnel portal visible from the Bealey River

Cast iron Otira Tunnel Viaduct built in 1910's.....

Karen and I had a good look at the viaduct but neither of us fancied wet feet...I will come down here next time I am in Arthur's Pass and go have a look.....

Jon looking at the Otira tunnel Portal

From the viaduct you just follow the marked path up an embankment near the train carousal and walk along it to the campsite and Shelter at Avalanche Creek. From there you are on SH 73 once again and you can walk back to your accommodation.

Panoramic view of the track to Arthur's Pass Village from the railway

The Upper Bealey River flats from near the Otira Tunnel Viaduct

The old railway carousal near the train station Arthur's Pass

 There is plenty of parking near the Avalanche Creek toilets so that is the best place to leave your car if you just wanting to visit the river while passing through the village.

On the embankment to SH 73 from the Otira Tunnel, Arthur's Pass

Avalanche Creek shelter and camp site, Arthur's Pass

On the way back to our holiday home we stopped in at the temporary DOC visitor center and office next to the Avalanche Creek campsite. The main DOC building is going to be removed and a new permanent office built to replace it. The office has a ton of information for people visiting the park, as well as maps, campsite tickets, hut tickets and a small retail area.

The temporary Arthur's Pass DOC office, Arthur's Pass

We also stopped by the Kea information kiosk located next to the DOC office, there is information about this endangered bird which is such a part of being in Arthur's Pass. When I was younger it was common to see 20+ Kea around the village...on this trip Karen and I saw only the one bird over four days.

 Kea are declining in numbers due to climate change, habitat loss and predation by introduced pests like stouts, possums, mice and rats.

The Kea information kiosk at Arthur's Pass

As you can see we had an excellent view of the Bealey Valley from the holiday home we were staying in...apart from the rustic outdoor toilet it was very nice and well located. I'm sure we will return sometime as we both had a good time there.

View of the Bealey Valley from our holiday home, Arthur's Pass

Interior photo of the Holiday home we used in Arthur's Pass

Our Arthur's Pass holiday home...'Woodsmoke'

If you every happen to find yourself in Arthur's Pass go have a look at JC's track and enjoy the alternate view of the Arthur's Pass village you get from down on the river flats.

Access:  The track officially starts next to the car-park at the Avalanche Creek campsite and shelter. There is a walkway from SH 73 along the embankment on the true right of Avalanche Creek. 

Track times: It takes 10-15 minutes to stroll along the flats next to the Bealey River.

Miscellaneous: Take care around the rail yard and especial care if cross any train tracks. do not try to access the Otira Rail tunnel portal as this is a restricted area.  

Arthur"s Pass Base Weekend: Otira Valley, 3rd January 2020

 A return to the Otira Valley, Arthur's Pass NP...

Karen and I spent a couple of days in Arthur's Pass National Park in early January and while there we went for a number of short walks in the area. We had some good weather for a change...it was cool but at least it didn't hose with rain like the last two times we have come up here. 

DOC sign at the start of the Otira Valley Track

One of the trips we did was up the Otira Valley to the footbridge half way to the head cirque...the last time I was up here was back in 2016 and I wanted to show Karen what a nice valley it is. It is sub alpine and alpine terrain up here...rocks, water and flora suited to the climate. 

Otira Valley Track: a scree slide about half way to the bridge

The Otira Valley Track is great in the summer but incredibly dangerous in the Autumn/Winter/Spring as it is flanked on both sides by +1900 meter high ridges. They accumulate a lot of snow and are prone to sudden and devastating avalanches. This makes the Otira Valley a no go zone for the colder snowy months of the year.

The western flank of Mt Rolleston from near the Otira Valley bridge

This is a must do for any slightly adventurous visitor to the park and you are assured of a good work out if you head up the valley. Anyway...lets see what the track looks like...

Tramping to the Otira Valley bridge

The track starts on the left side of SH 73 just past the Arthur Dobson Memorial on the top of Arthur's Pass. It is signposted and has space for about 6-7 cars. The first kilometer is a moderately step climb and it starts right from the first step.

Otira Valley Track: start of the track at SH 73

Side track to the Lake Misery Track from Otira Valley

Karen admires the sub alpine flora on the Otira Valley Track

The track quality is good to start with and then becomes a bit rocky and eroded up the track. The day was overcast and cool but we had on rain or overly strong wind so really it was good conditions for a stroll up the valley. 

The views up and back down the valley get better the higher you climb...and the encompassing ridges and high peaks emphasize how minuscule you are in the greater scheme of things...

Otira Valley Track: view back down to SH73 after the initial climb...

Starting to sidle along the side of  Goldney Ridge

We were visiting past the best time of the year to see the alpine flowers but there were still a lot of mountain daisies and other flower around. We have had a late and cool summer this year so it has knocked the cycles of the plants around a bit.

There are not a lot of trees up this valley but the herbs, shrubs and  multi colored alpine plants make for an interesting backdrop. You often see Chamois and Thar up this valley as they love to eat these succulent alpine plants...sadly we saw no such beasts on this trip.

Mountain daisies along the Otira Valley Track

This valley was shaped by the Rolleston Glacier and by the Otira River....if you were here 20 000 years ago the whole valley would have been filled with an ice sheet that stretched out past the Taramakau Valley 20 odd kilometers further west. That is why the valley is so steep sided...the ice carved the sides clean and it takes a long time to erode. 

Once the ice melted the river got to work gradually pushing gravel down the river bed...an action that continues to this day.

Karen negotiates a rock outcrop...Otira Valley Track

Otira Valley Track: view towards the Mt Temple area

We passed several areas of mountain daisies they are most prevalent in the mid reaches of the Otira Valley as they have an altitude and climate range where they grow. They add a nice touch of color to the usual greens, browns and oranges of the alpine plants. 

More mountain daisies in the Otira Valley

Sub alpine flora and flowers along the Otira Valley Track

There are many different rock forms up this valley and the colors of these range from grey to brown, orange and range from small pebbles to huge chunks of rock the size of a multi story house. 

Karen crosses the scree slide mid way to Otira Valley bridge

Looking down on the infant Otira river, Otira Valley Track

The other thing you have in the valley is water...there is water everywhere with waterfalls, seeps, creeks, streams and the Otira River itself. If you walk up here on a calm day the sound you will hear is water dripping, falling and flowing. It makes an excellent back-drop to your tramping journey...

Water seep along the Otira Valley Track

Small side stream on the Otira Valley Track

Waterfalls coming off Goldney ridge, Otira Valley 

Another stream crossing the Otira Valley Track

It take from one to one and a half hours to reach the bridge over the Otira River...this is the end of the marked track. From this point onward you require outdoor navigation skills as you make your own way up valley to the head cirque another hour away. 

Arrival at the bridge on the Otira Valley Track

Cascades in the upper reaches of the Otira River, Otira Valley 

End of the road...the Otira Valley bridge

We were pleased to reach the bridge and were looking forward to lunch, a drink and a sit down. 

Lunch at the Otira Valley footbridge

We had decided beforehand to only walk as far as the Otira Valley bridge as it was due to rain later that afternoon. The area around the bridge is an excellent spot to stop out of the wind for a break or lunch so we found a cosy position and settled down to eat. 

Precariously balanced bridge on the Otira Valley Track

The water up here is OK for human consumption if you end to refill..personally I would still treat it as there are isolated cases of Giardia etc. in the park all the time. It is the people...Arthur's Pass is very popular so there are always crowds of people around and where you have crowds you have problems. 

A bloody freezing cold pool near the Otira Valley bridge

View down the Otira Valley from near the foot bridge

If you come up here in autumn or late spring this is the absolute furthest you should go...you are relatively safe up to this point but past the bridge you are in danger from rock/ice/snow falls off the side of the very unstable Mt Philistine. Even in summer you must exercise extreme caution as even a summer snow fall (they happen from time to time) is a candidate for an avalanche. 

Preparing to cross the Otira Valley bridge...

Waterfall coming down from Goldney Ridge, Otira Valley

Looking back on the Otira Valley bridge from the true left bank

Karen and I crossed over the bridge after lunch to takes some photos...there are good vistas up to the western side of Mt Rolleston and also down the valley you have just walked up. 

Goldney Ridge is avalanche prone in winter...

Some sub alpine plants growing near the Otira Valley bridge

The Otira Valley bridge is a rickety affair..it is stable enough but the only thing holding it between the two boulders it sits on are a couple of cables and a couple of bolts. There used to be a more sturdy metal bridge up here but it got damaged beyond repair in a massive storm and was never replaced. 

Take care when crossing as a fall off the bridge would not be the making of your day...

A nice setting around the Otira Valey bridge

The Otira Valley bridge is balanced between two large boulders...

The flank of Mt Philistine as a backdrop to the Otira Valley bridge

Simple wooden construction of the Otira Valley bridge

We could see parts of Mt Rolleston from the talus field on the true left of the Otira Valley...there was still some snow on this side of the mountain even this late in the year. The snow was all orange as are snowfields on most mountains in the South Island as ash from the huge Australian bush-fires have dusted the snow.

If ever you needed a sign of the inter connected nature of the Earth the smoke filled skies, smell of wood smoke and ash from fires over 3000 kilometers away are a real portent. This is what climate change is going to look like as we go deeper into the 21st Century. 

Jon on the talus slope on the true left of the Otira Valley bridge

View up valley towards the Rolleston cirque, Otira Valley

Orange tinge to snow on Mt Rolleston, Otira Valley 

...lots of loose Weetbix rock on the ridges of Mt Philistine...don't squot Jon like a pompkin!!!

 If you are going up here bring a cooker and have a brew...it would be an excellent spot for a bit of outdoor tea making. I wish we had thought to bring one with us...my light cooker and Ti pot are very light so it would not have been a burden. 

A hansom waterfall just behind the Otira Valley bridge

View down the Otira Valley from near the Otira Valley bridge

 We spent about 20 minutes around the bridge and then packed up our gear ready for the walk back down the valley.

Heading back down to the Otira Valley car park

We set off back down the valley to the car park just past 1 pm...it is a little quicker to walk down the valley than up so I estimated it would take about an hour. This turned out to be just about correct as we got to the car around 2.15. 

Otira Valley Track sidles along the right side of the Otira Valeley

We made good progress down the track and passed quite a few people who were heading up valley. Personally I would plan to visit earlier in the day so as not to become be-nighted in the Otira Valley...even with a head lamp this track would be a good candidate for falling and breaking your leg etc. tripping over a rock. 

Exposed rock where the Otira Valley Track has eroded

As you head back towards the highway you have some spectacular views of the mountain ranges on the far side of SH73. There are tracks to many of these peaks mostly sidling along the sides of the ranges from the Temple Basin skifield. 

Pt1820 and Phipps Peak from the Otira Valley

Jon on the scree slope mid way down the Otira Valley 

I intend to walk up to Temple Basin again some time in the near future as I am walking tracks in Arthur's Pass for my other blog Arthur's Pass Adventures. Eventually I hope to walk all the tracks in the National Park but I am aware I am getting older every year so we will have to see...

Temple Basin skifield from the Otira Valley

Temple Basin skifield from the Otira Valley

Jon is stroking a bloody great chunk of rock that had rolled down the side of the ridge leaving big gouges as it rolled. It does make you think.......

Jon loves to stroke the rock....Otira Valley

Good close up of the Mountain Daisies in the Otira Valley

After 45 minutes you get to a spot where you ca look down onto SH 73 and the car-park at the start of the track once more. I was pleased to see the car was still there...I dont think i would leave my car there overnight as it would draw the unwanted attentions of the scumbag vandals who regularly break into cars along this highway. 

It is perfectly fine for a day walk as there is a lot of traffic dissuading them from villainy.

SH 73 and Pegleg Valley from the Otira Valley Track

...its big country at the head of the Otira Gorge...

The last kilometer down to the car park is moderately steep and rocky so just take some care when walking along he track. If I am going to hurt myself it usually happens over the last kilometer when i am tired and not paying attention. 

Case in point...I fell over 100 meters away from Whariwharangi Hut on the Abel Tasman Coast Track in October and it has only just healed. Be mindful of what you are doing right to the end of the tramp...

Rocky track descending from the Otira Valley

Temple Basin from the Otira Valley Track

Yes....the silver Surfer is still there....Otira Valley Track

We passed a European couple around the point in the photo below and I commented to Karen about how stupid it was heading into a high alpine valley at that time of the day. They were only carrying the clothes they were in and didn't have any warm clothing etc. Sure it is summer and day light savings but it is still a bit dubious starting out on a tramp that late in the day. 

Better to be well prepared and cautious than dead....

Approaching the end of the Otira Valley Track

DOC car park at the start of the Otira Valley Track

It was great to get back up the Otira Valley after several years...this really is one of the best short walks in Arthur's Pass National Park. Its not that difficult a track..you just need to be prepared and have the right skills and gear if going past the bridge. I really must come back here soon and show you what its like in the cirque under the western face of Mt Rolleston...preferably before Autumn arrives. 

Camping trip anyone?

Access: Track starts just to the west of Arthur's Pass on SH73, there is a small car-park on the left of the road
Track Times: 1.5 hours to the foot bridge over the Otira River, another 1-1.5 hours to the cirque at the base of Mt Rolleston, same to return.
Miscellaneous:Extreme avalanche danger in spring/winter along all of this track. Do not enter the valley in winter after heavy rain or a late spring snow storm. I'm really not joking...it looks OK but is awesomely dangerous until the snow pack melts....people have died in avalanches in this valley!!!