Monday 16 November 2020

Wainui Beach along the Taupo Point Track, Wainui Inlet: 6 November 2020

 A short trip to Wainui Beach....

After we visited Wainui Falls we continued around Wainui Inlet to Takapou and the start of the Taupo Point Track. This track will give you access to several places; Whariwharangi Bay via Gibbs Hill, Uarau Bay, Taupo Point and Wainui Beach. I have been to Wainui Beach before and thought it was a beautiful beach to visit so that was our destination on this trip.


Track map at the start of the Taupo Point Track, Wainui Inlet


Takapou was one of the Maori settlements in pre European Mohau/Golden Bay...it was close to fresh water, bush for food and timber and the seacoast. Nearby Wainui Inlet was a major food source for the local Iwi with waterfowl, shellfish, fishing and larger animals like seals, penguins and whales.. Today Takapou is a small settlement of farms and holiday bach's.....


Looking out to Abel Tasman Point from the Wainui Inlet


Taupo Point Track starts right from the car park at the Takapou road end. There is space here for 20 odd vehicles...it is moderately secure but I would not leave any valuables in plain site. There is a bit of a rough element in Golden Bay...they don't have a lot of money up here so don't tempt anyone to break into your car for your fancy jacket, purse or wallet.

Map: Wainui Inlet, Wainui Beach and Taupo Point Track

Taupo Point Track: Maori gateway at start of the track

There is a beautifully carved gateway at the start of the track...this is the northern end of the Abel Tasman Coastal Track so this is the Wainui version of the gate at Marahau at the other end of the track. It is well done with lovely carvings of ancestors and various animals found in the area. Stop and have a good look at it before you continue on your way. 



Closer view of the Taupo Point Track gateway, Wainui Inlet


The Maori gateway at the Marahau end of the track....

Because this is a Great Walk the track quality is excellent...wide, flat and covered with fine gravel. It deteriorates a bit once you turn off towards Wainui Beach but it is still a fine all weather track so you can come down here even if it is raining. 



On Taupo Point Track to Wainui Beach 


After 400 meters you will come to a track junction...if you go right you will immediately start the climb up and over Gibbs Hill to Whariwharangi and the Inland Track. If you want to go to Wainui Beach, Uarau Bay and Taupo Point take the left hand track that skirts the edge of Takapou Bay and the Wainui Inlet.



The Coastal Walkway to Gibbs Hill, Whariwharangi and the Inland Track


Track junction along the Taupo Point Track


Taupo Point Track to Wainui Beach, Uarau Bay and Taupo Point


Wainui Inlet has the same extreme tidal range as the beaches further south in Abel Tasman NP. It rises and falls around 3-4 meters every day so at low tide it is quite possible to walk right across the mud flats from Abel Tasman Point to Takapou Settlement. The inlet is filled with that same rough sandy mud as you find at Awaroa and Torrent Bay so it is firm and relatively easy to walk across. 



Low tide at Wainui Inlet,  Golden Bay

Looking to the head of Wainui Inlet from the Taupo Point Track





A panoramic shot of Wainui Inlet

After walking for 700 odd meters you will find yourself on Wainui Beach which fronts the sandbar at the mouth of Wainui Inlet. The sandbar is approximately 40 meters wide and is permenant...it is covered with a variety of low brush and some stunted trees.

 It is approximately 500 meters long and the water off the beach is very shallow...waist deep 60 meters off the shore. It would be an excellent spot for some snorkel diving in the summer but it was far to cold to warrant a swim when we visited. There are also a lot of fish in the water around here but check for reserve status before casting out a line....


Distant Farewell Spit from Wainui Beach

Uarau Point from Wainui Beach

Abel Tasman Point from Wainui Beach

I first came to this beach back in the 1990's with my girlfriend of the time and the beach was packed with people. Lots of tourists then some of whom were camping at the back of the beach. We were the only people there for a while on the day we visited...but we did see a group of younger university aged folk heading down for a swim. There were also several groups coming back from visiting Taupo Point so we were not totally alone. 


The water in Wainui Bay is shallow...

An empty Wainui Beach....

Uarau Bay is the next bay along the coast from Wainui Beach and can be reached on a low tide track which skirts the cliffs at the back of all these beaches. Lucky for us it was low tide so we walked around to have a look at the bay. There is a notch at the extreme eastern end of Wainui Beach...a small gap between the hillside and a rock spire that you walk through to get to Uarau and Taupo Point. 


There is low tide access to Uarau Bay at the end of Wainui Beach

Uarau Point from Uarau Bay, Golden Bay

On Taupo Point Track via Uarau Bay

View back to Wainui Beach from the notch....

We had a walk on the beach at Uarau Bay and explored the rock pools around the edge of the notch...there is a rock shelf there which goes a little way out into the bay. Uarau would be a nice beach to head to for some sunbathing and swimming as the water in the bay is shallow quite a way out to sea. 

Be aware that the path around the sea cliffs is tidal...there is a four hour period over high tide when the sea inundates the path so add that to your plans. There is no other feasible route off the beach at high tide...


On the rock shelves in Uarau Bay


Pied Oystercatchers on Uarau Beach

Interesting layering at the notch, Taupo Point Track


If you want to continue to Taupo Point you walk around Uarau Bay on the beach to a track over the low saddle at the end of Uarau Point. This will take you up and over a headland and drop you out on the beach at Taupo Point. The trip to Taupo Points takes 1.5 hours one way and involves some steep bush track and rock scrambling. 

Taupo Point is as far around the coast as you can go...the high sea cliffs from Taupo Point to Whariwharangi Bay make it impossible to walk right around to Whariwharangi Beach. 


Uarau Point: I wonder which way the wind blows....?


The Whariwharangi Bay side of Taupo Hill (2019)

Whariwharangi Beach and the Taupo Hill cliffs (2019)


We sent about 20 minutes at Uarau and Wainui Beach and then set off back to the carpark at Takapou. We passed a couple of groups on the way back to the car most of whom looked to be heading to the beach but also a couple of groups of trampers who were obviously heading for Whariwharangi Hut. 




On Taupo Point Track heading for the carpark

Bush lines the side of Taupo Point Track

The Maori gateway at the end of Taupo Point Track


The tide had started to come in as we left Wainui Beach and Wainui Inlet was full of water as we walked back down the Taupo Point Track to the carpark. We could see some distant kayakers paddling along the far side of the Inlet...probably heading for the open ocean. 


The tide was coming in at Wainui Inlet....


We stopped at the Maori gateway over the Taupo Point Track and had a look at the carvings and panels on it. They are beautiful and obviously a lot of effort has gone into making them...it is a nice way to start or end a track. 


Taupo Point Track: the rear of the Maori Gateway...

Detail of the Taupo Point Track gateway

More detail of the Taupo Point Track gateway, Wainui Inlet

If you ever find yourself at Wainui Inlet take the time to drive around to Takapou and walk out to Wainui Beach. It is a great spot for some seaside fun with lovely golden sand, shallow water in the bay and a short easy access track. If you are feeling a bit more adventurous why not walk around to either Uarau Bay or Taupo Point. Remember that access is tidal...don't go past Wainui Beach near high tide unless you are prepared to wait for four hours for the water to recede. 


Access: The Taupo Point Track and Wainui Beach can be accessed off Abel Tasman Drive approximately 2 kilometers past the turn off to Totaranui/Awaroa at Anatimo. The last 1.5 kilometers to Takapou are along a narrow gravel road. 
Track Times: The Taupo Point Track to Wainui Beach is 700 meters or 15-20 minutes walk one way. T walk the full Taupo Point Track to Taupo Point will take 2.5 hours (4 km's) return.
Miscellaneous: The track is to a good standard, a mixture of flat bush track, beach walking and easy rock scrambling. There is low tide access to Uarau Bay and Taupo Point at the eastern end of Wainui Beach. Note there is a four hour window at high tide when there is no access to or from Uarau Bay as the crossing point is submerged. Toilets at the start of the Taupo Point Track and at Taupo Bay. This is also the start of the track to Whariwharangi over Gibbs Hill. 

Wednesday 11 November 2020

Wainui Falls, Abel Tasman NP: 6 November 2020

 The sun finally shows itself in Mahua/Golden Bay...

We awoke on Friday 6th November to a stunning day with sunshine, no wind and clear skies. It was a massive change from the torrential downpours we had experienced for most of the previous five days. We had several places we were going to visit including the beach at Wainui Inlet and The Abel Tasman Memorial but our main focus was on visiting Wainui Falls. 

Entrance to the Wainui Falls access road near Anatimo

Wainui Falls is on the edge of Abel Tasman National Park and at the head of Wainui Inlet. The water for the falls comes from the Wainui River which has its origins high in the mountains that fill the center of the Abel Tasman NP. The headwaters start near Mt Evans the highest point in Abel Tasman National Park.

Map: Wainui Falls Track, Wainui Inlet, Mohua/Golden Bay



To start with the Wainui Falls Track crosses over farmland just off Abel Tasman Drive about a kilometer short of Anatimo. After that it is a combination of bush track, boardwalk, bridges and easy rock scrambling. 

Start of the Wainui Falls Track, Wainui Inlet

Close view of Wainui Falls Track sign


There is a set of toilets at the start of the Wainui Falls Tack...there are none anywhere else along the track so make sure to use them before setting out on your walk. From the carpark it is 2 km's or roughly 30-40 minutes walking to reach the waterfall. We were the first people to arrive on the day and we set off briskly along the track to get away from the heinous sandflies which live near the trailhead. 


There are toilets at the start of the Wainui Falls Track

The first part of the track is along a farm track before it joins a dedicated walking track along the banks of the Wainui River. There are a couple of streams to cross along the track...I would imagine they are usually dry but with all the rain they were flowing well. 


Wainui Falls Track: on the farm track...

There are several stream crossings on the Wainui Falls Track


Once on the official DOC track all side stream's, creeks and rivers are bridged so this is in reality an all weather track. The track is lined on both sides with native trees and there were several places where you could see fresh planting so this must be an ongoing task. The track quality is fair...it is wide, flat and mostly clear of debris so is very easy to walk along. 



Turn off to the DOC track...Wainui Falls Track


Ongoing native planting along the Wainui Falls Track


Forest canopy along the Wainui Falls Track

First view of the Wainui River from Wainui Falls Track

About 700 meters up the track you reach the edge of Abel Tasman National Park and will be walking on park land for the rest of the way to the falls. There is a warning sign here about the drop offs along the track...take heed as there are a number of places where you will need to keep tight control over children. 

There is one bluff about a kilometer in where you are at least 60 meters above the river and DOC have installed a safety barrier to stop people falling off the track. It is a long way down and while it might not kill you it would certainly put you in hospital for a spell. 


Wainui Falls Track...there are bluffs along the track

Wainui Falls Track...the border of Abel Tasman NP


There are a number of bridges along the length of the Wainui Falls Track, I didn't think to count them but there are at least 10 of them over the two kilometers. Most of them were over side streams which crossed the track and the largest is a swing bridge over the Wainui River about 500 meters before you reach the falls.


One of 15?  bridges along the Wainui Falls Track


Approaching one of the bluffs along Wainui Falls Track

Wainui Falls Track...guard rails to prevent falls

Its a long way down to the Wainui River

There are some lovely benched track sections on the way to Wainui Falls with the classic flat track with a sharply cut upper bank. 


Lovely benched track along the Wainui Falls Track

Wainui Falls Track: a mixture of Podocarp forest species


I love all the epiphytes growing on this Totora Tree we passed along the Wainui Falls Track. The totally blanket the lower branches of the tree in an attempt to gather more of the limited sunlight in this narrow valley. It is like a waterfall of greenery cascading down the side of the parent tree...


A variety of epiphytes on a Totora Tree...Wainui Falls Track



There are occasional breaks in the forest canopy which allows you to look further up river...The river was one series of cascades after another with plenty of white water. If the river was always this full it would be a great spot for some advanced level fast water kayaking. 



Looking up the Wainui river from the track

Wainui Falls Track: the track borders the river at points

We arrived at the swing bridge over the Wainui River after about 30 minutes...this is a substantial bridge...it would be 20 meters across and 15-20 meters above the river. It is one of the new design with a solid wooden walkway across the top of the foot wires so it is solid and rigid in the wind.

The river was full of water and really rumbling over the cascades just upstream from the swing bridge...mist was drifting down the valley from all of the waterfalls and cascades running here after all that rain. 


First view of the Wainui River swing bridge

Wainui Falls Track: the bridge over the Wainui River


Wainui River from the Wainui swing bridge

It is only 500 meters from the swing bridge to the water fall and you could hear the distant roar of rushing water from this far away. The valley steadily constricts the closer you get to Wainui Falls..it basically becomes a gorge with the track sidling along the true left side of the river. 



Wainui Falls Track: good study of the canopy of a podocarp tree

On the true left of the Wainui River, Wainui Falls Track


We passed this interesting side valley near Wainui Falls...it almost looks like an avalanche chute as the vegetation lining the side and bottom of it was stunted. I imagine that when you get heavy rain in the area this gorge fills with water which would scour the sides of the gorge clean. 

It would take a lot of water but the whole Golden Bay-Tasman region often gets slapped by the dregs of dying sub tropical cyclones which hold massive amounts of rain. Ex Cyclone Gita dropped over 250mm of rain on Abel Tasman NP back in 2017 which is the equivalent of two months rain over a 24 hour period. 

That is a lot of water.....


Side valley off the Wainui Falls Track

Just past the gorge you come to a bridge crossing a stream and from here you can see the spray coming off  Wainui Falls just upstream. The trees were dripping with moisture from the spray and the undergrowth in the forest was luxuriant and green...


Wainui Falls are just around the corner...

Wainui Falls Track: another of the numerous bridges

I stopped and took a photo of this fallen Punga tree below as I love the pattern of the bark these plants have. The marks are from where the fronds have fallen off the tree over the years...I think it is quite beautiful.

Isn't nature inventive...

Interesting pattern on a Punga Tree, Wainui Falls Track

The end of the Wainui Falls Track


There was a healthy waterfall coming down one of the gorges around the Wainui Falls Pool...an excellent entrée for the main event...



Waterfall just downstream from Wainui Falls

First view of Wainui Falls, Karen looks startled...

Wainui Falls were absolutely pumping when we got there...there was a thunderous roar as the water shot over the lip of the falls and crashed down into the pool at their base. The cold tonnage of water coming over the waterfall would most assuredly 'squot you like a pumpkin' as I am fond of saying....


Wainui Falls, Abel Tasman NP

The pool at the base of Wainui Falls, Abel Tasman NP

Cascades in the Wainui River, Wainui Falls, Abel Tasman NP

Here is a video of the Wainui Falls in action....





I could see a number of places where people had climbed down to the pool at the end of the track...I think this is absolute madness. If you fell in that freezing cold, furious water you wouldn't last more than a couple of minutes. People can be really idiotic at times.


Viewing platform at Wainui Falls, Abel Tasman NP

The sun reaches the Wainui Falls, Abel Tasman NP


Jon at the Wainui Falls, Abel Tasman NP

Wainui Falls, Abel Tasman NP are over two levels

Mist from the Wainui Falls fills the valley


We spent around 10 minutes at the viewing platform at the end of Wainui Falls Track before heading back down the track to the car park. We passed a couple of groups of people heading up to have a look at the waterfall on our way back down to the swing bridge but I would have expected a lot more people out and about given how nice the weather was. 

I'm sure that over the rest of the day numerous folk headed along the track. 


The waterfall downstream from Wainui Falls, Abel Tasman NP

It is much easier walking back towards the car park as there is a slight incline to the track when you are going up river. Apart from the climb up and over the area of bluffs we were more or less walking downhill the whole way back to the car. 



Heading back down the Wainui Falls Track


The forest in the Wainui River Valley is super thick because of the ready supply of moisture. The bush came right down to the side of the river including some large Beech and Podocarp trees but most of the vegetation was grass, flax and ferns. 



The forest comes right down to the Wainui River

One of many pools along the Wainui River


The photo below gives a much better view of how high above the river the swing bridge is and you can also see the wooden foot walk. This is the semi standard for DOC constructed swing bridges now as they are more stable and tend to last for longer than a wire only bridge. 


Wainui River swing bridge, Wainui Falls Track

Wainui River swing bridge is about 15 meters above the water

I like the play of light and shadow in the photo below...the Nikau Palm is cool as well....


Sun dappled clearing along the Wainui Falls Track

Early morning sun on the Wainui Falls Track


You have a much better view of the Wainui River near the bluffs when walking down river...you can see how high above the river you are and also get a view down the Wainui River Valley. It is quite rugged country given it is less than one kilometer from a formed road...



View of the Wainui River from the bluffs...

There is a good drop off at the bluffs, Wainui Falls Track

Wainui Falls Track: one of several benches along the track

We soon found ourselves back on the farm track and covering the last kilometer to the carpark. There are some excellent views of the edge of Abel Tasman National Park off to your right. The park boundary starts right from the fence along the edge of the farmland and it is straight into dense forest. 


Wainui Falls Track: back on the farm track...


The ridge in the photo below is the one I tramped along in 2018 on my way to Awapoto Hut on the Inland Track. The dip on the left of the photo is Pigeon Saddle where the Inland Track meets the road to Totaranui Campgrounds. Awapoto Hut is out of frame to the right and about another kilometer along the ridgeline. It is rough, steep terrain up there but there are occasional views down to Wainui Inlet, Golden Bay and Totaranui


Pigeon Saddle from the Wainui Falls Track

Wainui Falls Track...almost back at the carpark...

The carpark for the Wainui Falls Track

Wainui Falls is an excellent day walk if you are up in Golden Bay and you should make an effort to visit if in the region. The track is lovely and very easy walking and the waterfall especially after a bit of rain is spectacular. We saw very few people along the track but then we were there early in the morning. I will definitely be returning here if I ever find myself in Golden Bay or heading for Totaranui Campgrounds. 


Access: The Wainui Falls Track can be accessed off Abel Tasman Drive approximately 700 meters before the turn off to Totaranui & Awaroa at Anatimo. Look for the DOC sign at the head of Wainui Inlet and follow the short gravel road to the carpark at the start of the track. 

Track Times: The Wainui Falls Track is 2 km's or 35-40 minutes walk one way, it will take 1.5 hours (4 km's) return.

Miscellaneous: The track is to a good standard, a mixture of flat farm track, bush track and easy rock scrambling. There are numerous bridges including the main swing bridge over the Wainui River. There are steep drop offs and multiple water courses on this track so closely monitor children. Toilets are available at the Wainui Falls Track carpark