Travers Valley, Nelson Lakes National Park: 30th March-3rd April 2017

Exploring the Travers Valley, Nelson Lakes NP

This is the first tramp I have been on for a couple of months so I figured I would go out for a couple of days. My first thought was a Travers Sabine Circuit but as my pack fitness was low due to a lack of trips I decided on an exploration of the Travers Valley instead.

The 'Silver Surfer' (third from left) parked in St Arnaud

I headed up to St Arnaud early on Thursday morning, with an end goal of reaching Hopeless Hut by the end of the day. Unfortunately the extremely slow trip from Christchurch to St Arnaud (6+ hours) due to roadworks meant I was too late to get that far up valley.

Day One: St Arnaud to Lakehead Hut

As I was saying, I started tramping around 12 noon, instead of the 10 am I was expecting. This meant I only got as far as Lakehead Hut, rather than my original goal of Hopeless Hut another 3 hours up valley. 

Day One: St Arnaud to Lakehead Hut

As always I started out at the Kerr Bay track head, and followed Lakehead Track
(12 km's, 2-2.5 hours) up the eastern side of the lake. This is the second time I have walked this track in the last 6 months (fifth time overall) so it is becoming familiar to me.

Kerr Bay Jetty- overcast and late!

Start of the Lakehead Track

That seems familiar....on the Lakehead Track

Jon on Lake head Track, Nelson Lakes NP

Lower Lakehead Track

A cloud covered Robert Ridge

The weather was overcast but warm, probably about 20 degrees and very calm. Makes a change from the rain and wind I experienced when I walked the track in October last year. 

Looking back over Lake Rotoiti to St Arnaud

Coldwater Hut on the other side of Lake Rotoiti

Having walked this track before it was a swift and unsurprising trip. I reached Lakehead Hut at about 2.30 pm after a pleasant trip of 2.5 hours. The track was much nicer to walk on as it was dry, I wasn't walking in pools of water like you do when it is raining.

It's actually about 2 hours to St Arnaud

Travers River mouth in the distance

The Lakehead Hut jetty

Bellbird near the Lakehead Hut jetty

I got to the hut at 2.30 pm for a late lunch of soup and wraps. I thought about continuing up valley but as I knew it was a least 3 hours to Hopeless Hut I decided to stay at Lakehead Hut instead.

Looking up valley from Lakehead Hut afternoon

View down valley from Lakehead Hut

My direction of travel for tomorrow

I shared the hut that night with a French guy heading to Upper Travers Hut and a German couple who were on their way out to St Arnaud in the morning. It was a pleasant night discussing this and that and I turned in early at 8.30 pm as we had no candles so reading was out of the question.

Late afternoon fog in the Travers Valley

Day Two: Lakehead Hut to Cupola hut via John Tait Hut

On day two I was tramping from Lakehead Hut to John Tait Hut (15 km's, 4-5 hours) up the Travers valley. From there I would be walking another (6 km's, 2.5 hours) to get to Cupola Hut which was my destination for the night.

Day Two: Lakehead Hut to the Travers Swingbridge

I was up at the crack of dawn and set off up valley just as the sun was cresting the eastern peaks along the Travers. The first hour or so  was an easy walk over grass flats to the swing-bridge over the Travers River.

Starting out from Lakehead Hut

The Travers River used to run down the eastern side of this valley, but re routed itself during a big storm back in 2010. If there is a lot of rain then the river will still use the old bed as well as inundating the flats between the two braids of the river.

The old Travers river bed 25 mins up valley

Obvious track heading to the Travers swing-bridge

Recent flood debris over 200 metres from the Travers River....

Matagouri and long grass- Travers River Valley

The old course of the Travers River

Once across the flats there is a short 20 minute section of forest and bush to pass through before reaching the Travers swing bridge. There are several places along here where the river has eaten the track away and you need to navigate past them.

The short forest section heading up to Travers swing-bridge

Bit muddy but not too bad- Travers Valley Track

Object d'Arte in Travers Valley...O.K......???

The Travers River has eaten the track.....

Last bush finger before swing bridge

Old cairn on the Travers Valley Track

If you are doing the Lake Rotoiti circuit and are unable to use the lower ford this is the bridge you need to cross to get to the true left of the Travers River. It is a long and rickety bridge- so be prepared!

Travers River swing bridge

From the swing-bridge it is about 40 minutes to Hopeless Creek, it is then another 2-2.5 hours to John Tait Hut closer to the head of the valley.

Map: Hopeless Creek to John Tait Hut

The track between the swing-bridge and John Tait hut is very nice. The track is a mixture of bush, river flats and small up and down climbs over the tail end of the ridges.

Heading up valley from the Travers swing-bridge

Approaching Hopeless Creek

Jon on the Travers Track day two

Travers Track- nice easy tramping

Mt Travers in the distance

Climbing up to Hopeless Creek Track

Swingbridge over Hopeless Creek

Hopeless Creek has a hut an hour and a half up the one of the side valleys. This is the destination for my next Nelson Lakes tramp, hopefully before the end of April. Hopeless Hut is a small 6 bunk NZFS hut most commonly used by climbers accessing the surrounding peaks. It can also be visited from Lake Angelus but it would be a total pig of a climb down over dangerous bluffs- no track.

Not for the faint of heart or inexperienced!

Track junction for Hopeless Hut...

...my next objective in Nelson Lakes NP!

Travers Valley narrows as you climb

This fantail below followed me for about 30 minutes as I walked up the Travers Valley.

New Zealand Fantail...

...shakin that ass...!

There are a number of very nice looking camping sites up the Travers Valley, none of them are official but it is perfectly legal to camp provided you are not right on top of the track.

Nice camping spot 2.5 hours up from Travers Swing bridge

It is a nice wide track up the Travers Valley

You strike a foot bridge and attractive cascading stream about 30 minutes from John Tait Hut. 

Bridge about 30 minutes from John Tait Hut

Nice cascade 30 minutes from John Tait Hut

Travers Valley Track: another view of the stream...

First view of John Tait Hut through the forest...

The Upper Travers Valley is notorious for avalanches in the winter/spring, hence all the warning signs. Both John Tait, Upper Travers and Cupola Hut's all sit on or near avalanche paths so can potentially get hit at any time from May through December. 

Avalanche warning sign on the Travers Track

I finally arrived at John Tait Hut after 4.5 hours of trekking. This is an awesome hut, 28 bunks and is in excellent condition given it is over 40 years old. It was recently re painted and some maintenance has been done on it from the look of it.

This is the second John Tait Hut the original from the 1940's was replaced with the current hut in the late 1960's.

John Tait Hut II

Eating area at John Tait Hut

Cooking space in John Tait Hut

The bunk area- John Tait Hut

I stopped at the hut for about 40 minutes as I rested and ate my lunch, much better than being eaten alive by the sand-flies sitting on the side of the track somewhere.

Jon still feeling o.k at John Tait

Lunch: Wraps, pate, soup and tea- I have a big climb ahead!

View down valley from the verandah at John Tait

As you can see from the photo below the avalanche path is literally 5 metres from the hut. That slide is made of decades if not centuries of avalanche material coming down. There is a photo inside of both the clearing AND the hut totally covered by an avalanche back in 2008. Not a place to be if there are heavy snow storms in the upper valley.

Avalanche fan & debris piled up near John Tait Hut

Some information about John Tait and the first hut

Look at all that lovely wood....!

After lunch I refilled my water bottles and set out for my destination for the night, Cupola Hut. Cupola Hut is about 3 hours up valley, there is a side track about 30 minutes from the hut, it is then 2-2.5 hours to the hut.

John Tait Hut to Cupola Hut

The distance to both Upper Travers Hut and Cupola Hut are around three hours- the distance to both is about 6 km. Slow, slow travel. Yes...it is very steep in places!

Heading for Cupola Hut after lunch

The track starts off flat-ish after John Tait...

...then gets much steeper!

Open forest-Upper Travers Track

Travers Valley Track: the turn off to Cupola Hut

After turning off the main Upper Travers Track you start a gradual climb up to the head of Cupola Creek. You are on the true right to start but cross over another foot bridge about an hour up the side valley and stay on that side all the way to the hut.

Starting up Cupola Creek Track, Nelson Lakes National Park

Cupola Creek is your companion for awhile, Nelson Lakes National Park

Crossing the bridge mid way to Cupola Hut, Nelson Lakes National Park

The last section of the track is a switch back, it takes longer to cover the distance but it sure is a lot less painful way to do so. It wont be the original track: back in the old NZFS days they just went straight up ridgelines, none of this fancy back and forth stuff.

Because they were HARD!

Nelson Lakes National Park, Start of the switch back climb to Cupola Hut

Nearly at Cupola Hut, Nelson Lakes National Park

I arrived at Cupola Hut around 4 pm. The view from Cupola Hut isn't magnificent, there are too many trees in the way for that. It is in a nice location though, perched high up on a ledge on the mountain side. The hut is a modified NZFS70 6 bunk hut from the 1960's. 

View from Cupola Hut- not much of a view!

I was surprised because the hut has a water tank, the DOC website says there is no water source. Also bloody irritated as I had 3.5 litres of HEAVY water on me as I was expecting a dry hut

End of Cupola Track, Cupola Hut Ledge, Nelson Lakes National Park

The hut is classic NZ Forestry Service goodness: it has 6 bunks, an open fire, a small table and bench seats, cooking bench and a selection of FMC and hunting magazines. It is mostly used by climbing parties attempting the local peaks.

View of the outside of Cupola Hut, Nelson Lakes National Park

I had the hut to myself that night which was nice as every other night I was sharing a hut. Just as well as I was knackered- 8 hours on track doesn't sound like much to a young bugger but I'm a semi fit 49 year old. I lay down for a rest when I arrived and didn't wake up until 7 pm.... 

Cupola Hut Interior from Tramping.net website

Cupola Hut Bunks from Tramping.net website

Cupola Hut exterior from Tramping.net website

Potential avalanche source above Cupola Hut

 Cupola Hut is also on an avalanche pathway, in this case high steep cliffs above the hut sometimes release snow after large storms. There are signs on the track warning of the avalanche danger.

 

Day Three: Cupola Hut to Travers Falls, then to John Tait Hut

Day three was a short trip back down to John Tait Hut (about 5 km's, 2.5 hours)  for the night, as an added bonus and because it was only 30 minutes away I went up valley to visit Travers Falls. The first hour and a half was back out to the main Travers Valley track, then right turn and marche.

Map: Cupola Hut to John Tait Hut

Once on the main Upper Travers Track it is a steep climb uphill to the Travers Falls turn off about a kilometre away. The track follows alongside the Travers River with the occasional climb to avoid gorges.You are just able to make out Mt Travers as you climb the track.

View of Mt Travers through the trees, Upper Travers Valley Track

Bridge over Cupola Creek, main Upper Travers Track

Cupola Creek: Deep gorge down there!

Upper Travers Valley: moss covered alpine stream bed

Below is a classic form of track marking, the top of a can has been cut off and nailed to a tree. In the old days the Forestry Service used old paint tin lids and later strips of Permolat which was a reflective strip much like a metal Venetian blind. The ubiquitous orange triangle only came in with the birth of DOC in the late 1980's.

Old style NZFS paint lid track marker....Upper Travers Valley Track

Upper Travers Valley Track is steep, rocky...

...and covered with roots!

A high alpine Mire near Travers Falls, Nelson Lakes National Park

Heading down to Travers Falls, Travers Valley Track

Travers Falls is only 15 meters high but the volume of water passing over it still makes it worth a visit. It was really loud as it is in a water carved amphitheatre, be careful of the track/ viewing area as it is steep and wet from the spray. Go have a look if you are passing this way. 

Travers Falls from the viewing track, Nelson Lakes National Park

I continued on up the track for another 15 minutes to see what I could see, I turned back at the first stream/avalanche path as the bridge that used to cross the stream has been washed away. Then it was back tracking to John Tait Hut for the night.

Upper Travers Hut is 2 hours that way....

Upper Travers Valley: there should be a bridge here....avalanche chute!

Heading back down to John Tait Hut

View downstream from John Tait Hut, Travers Valley

John Tait Hut: Someone has a fetish about making wooden faces....

I went a bit crazy with the axe...John Tait Hut

...still more wood...at John Tait Hut

...and even more wood!

John Tait Hut: Firebox set up and ready to go!

  There were just the two of us in the hut that night: myself and a young woman from Germany (...hi Luisa, I hope the rest of your trip goes well, it was nice meeting you...).

It must be slightly weird to find yourself staying in a hut overnight with a stranger, especially if you are a young woman from another country. In the dark because, you guessed it, there weren't any candles in the hut.

Jon outside John Tait Hut, Nelson Lakes National Park

I'm such a Dad though I generally put people at ease fairly quickly, you just chat to them and shove some tea in their hand. Works wonders in my experience.

 

I was a bit surprised the hut was so empty as it was a Saturday, I thought there might have been more people tramping over the weekend. I think people were put off by the forecast of bad weather which only arrived mid-day on Monday. So you missed out on some fine weather!

We had the fire going later that night as it got cold once the sun went down at about 5 pm, very nice it was too!

Day Four: John Tait Hut to Coldwater Hut

  Day four started out cloudy but got progressively better as the day wore on. The trek today was back down valley following the main Travers Track till the swing-bridge (13 km's, 3 hours). Then it was following the track down the true right of the Travers to Coldwater Hut (6 km's, 2 hours). 

  Luisa and I walked separately down valley, she was nursing some awesome blistered heels and wanted to go at her own pace. In the event she was only 25 minutes behind me at the end of the day.

The John Tait Hut veranda

John Tait Hut in its clearing, Travers Valley

Heading for Coldwater Hut- near John Tait Hut

Nice open forest, near John Tait Hut

Mossy goblin forest, Travers Valley

Jon on his way to Coldwater Hut

Walking alongside the Travers River, Nelson Lakes National Park

Travers Valley Track: small tarn halfway to the swing-bridge, and...

...the very nice camping spot nearby, Travers Valley Track:.

Lovely open red beech forest on the Travers Valley Track:

The Hopeless Creek bridge, Travers Valley

Travers Valley Track: there is a track there....somewhere...

About half way to the swing-bridge there is a point where the river has eaten away the bank causing a shingle slide. To pass it there is a very obvious track but it is high, steep and slippery. Don't use this as you will probably end up falling over. Instead you should just follow the low track right next to the river. 

The problematic shingle slide near Hopeless Creek, Nelson Lakes NP

Beech and ferns, John Tait Track

A native New Zealand Wren, Travers Valley Track

Another patch of goblin forest, Travers Valley

Below is another spot where the river is gradually eating away the river bank, you need to do a bit of a bush bash to get around it...

More river damage between John Tait and the Travers swingbridge

There are a number of excellent camping spots in the Travers Valley, all of them have had obvious use, in fact I saw two of them occupied when I headed up the valley earlier in my trip. 

Travers Valley Track: another nice camping spot an hour from the Travers swing bridge

More possible camping spots along the Travers River

The flats just up from the Travers swing bridge

Snack and map check, near Travers swing-bridge

Travers Valley Track: the last significant climb for the day

Back at the Travers swing-bridge, lower Travers Valley

NO!!!! More like 1.5-2 hours.....

Down stream of the Travers swing bridge, Nelson Lakes NP

Downstream of the Travers swing-bridge the track is a mixture of river flats, short bush sections and   bridges which cross all of the major side streams on this side of the Valley. It takes about 2 hours to get from the swing-bridge to Coldwater Hut, ignore the bogus track times posted by DOC. 

River flats, true left of Travers River, Nelson Lakes National Park

Nice track between Travers Swing-bridge and Hukere Stream

First suspension bridge over Hukere River, Travers Valley

The mighty Hukere River...is not so mighty!

The second suspension bridge over Shift Stream, Nelson Lakes NP

The track up to this point is rather nice and easy to walk. From Shift Stream to the ford over the Travers it turns into a bloody irritating son of a bitch. The track isn't terrible, just not well maintained: muddy, too many ups and downs to avoid hazards, lots of fallen trees, unclear track signs etc etc. This is the only part of the whole five days that had me swearing aloud. 

It wasn't just me, all four of the people staying in Coldwater Hut that night said exactly the same thing.

Travers Valley Track deteriorates mid valley on the true left

First view of Lake Rotoiti for the day, Travers Valley, Nelson Lakes National Park

Frickin irritating long grass and indistinct track- Lower Travers Valley

Gawd-damn never ending slog to Coldwater Hut

The Travers River ford sign

Those times are about right...near the Travers River Ford

Walking next to the Travers River, Lower Travers Valley

Lower Travers Valley near the river mouth, Nelson Lakes National Park

Chandler Stream- last bridge before Coldwater Hut, Nelson Lakes National Park

First view of Coldwater Hut

Coldwater Hut from the jetty

Inside of Coldwater Hut (October 2016)

Sleeping platforms, Coldwater Hut (October 2016)

Coldwater jetty at dusk, Lake Rotoiti and St Arnaud Ranges to front, Nelson Lakes National Park

There were four of us in Coldwater Hut that night: myself, Luisa (Germany), a guy called Christen (Belgium) and a woman from Spain. An international mix if ever there was one.

Its a nice wee hut, 12 bunks, open fireplace (no wood) with an awesome view of the lake but the sand flies are murderous. You can see some big old eels from the end of the jetty (3-4 metres long at least). 

A group of Canterbury University trampers stopped for a swim off the jetty, they said the water was warm but I noticed they didn't stay in very long (they almost levitated out of the water when the eels started swimming around them....). 

It absolutely hosed with rain overnight, from about 7 pm right through to 5am in the morning... winter has arrived folks...

Day Five: Coldwater Hut to St Arnaud

 The last day was the walk back to St Arnaud along Lakeside Track (16 km's, 3 hours). I've been down this track four times now so the distance just seemed to motor past. I have my time from Coldwater Hut to the Mt Robert road down to just over 2 hours.

 Easy walking even with a wet, slippery track. 

Map: Coldwater Hut to start of last climb to Mt Robert Road

The weather was great for walking; mild, with the odd patch of drizzle but not enough to call for a wet weather jacket. The higher ranges on both sides of the lake were covered with cloud for most of the day.

Coldwater Hut jetty at dawn on the last day, Lake Rotoiti

Start of Lakeside Track near Coldwater Hut

First bridge on Lakeside Track, Nelson Lakes National Park

Another view, first bridge Lakeside Track

Approaching Whisky Falls on the Lakeside Track

The turn off to Whisky Falls 45 minutes down valley

Lake Rotoiti from the Lakeside Track, Nelson Lakes National Park

Bridge over side stream, Lakeside Track

St Arnaud in the distance, from Lakeside Track, Nelson Lakes National Park

One of the shingle slides coming down from Mt Robert, Lake Rotoiti

Stony part of the Lakeside Track, Nelson Lakes National Park

The track was a bit wet and slippery but I just took extra care and was very aware of foot placement.

Parachute Rocks are up there somewhere, from Lakeside Track, Nelson Lakes National Park

Jon at Lake Rotoiti, Nelson Lakes NP

Map: Mt Robert Road to St Arnaud

The last bit of Lakeside Track is the slow steady climb up to the road, it is about 35 minutes to the  end of the track once you start climbing. To start with it is steep but it levels out the higher you climb.

Starting the climb to Mt Robert road, from near Lake Rotoiti

Nearly at the Mt Robert road, Lakeside Track, Nelson Lakes National Park

There is the end of Lakeside Track...Mt Robert Road in front

Once on the Mt Robert road it is 20 minutes to West Bay and then another 15 minutes to the car parking area at the DOC workshops.

Mt Robert access road from the end of the Lakeside Track

Lake Rotoiti from West Bay, Nelson Lakes National Park

Rotoiti Peninsula from West Bay, Nelson Lakes National Park...nearly there!

Lake Rotoiti and Mt Robert from the Kerr Bay car park

Another good trip in Nelson Lakes National Park, this is now my favourite location for tramping adventures. There are certainly a lot more people passing through here but I never felt like the park was crowded at any time. While you are walking you still have the forest largely to your self, and the huts were mostly empty. 

I hope to be back late in April to finish my exploration of the Travers Valley by visiting Hopeless Hut....lets hope the weather holds out!

On SH 6 just past Hanmer on the Thursday morning

Travel to St Arnaud and Picton

Just a final note to anyone travelling between Christchurch and points north, you should factor extra time into your travel plans. Normally I can get to Nelson Lakes in 4.5 hours; this trip it took me 6 to get there and 6.5 on the return. Its not the traffic it is the road works: at least 40% of SH7/6/65 are being repaired or widened at the moment. 

It makes for SLOW travel....

Access: Via the Travers Valley track, from St Arnaud Township
Track Times: 3 hours to Lakehead Hut, 4-5 hours to John Tait Hut, 3 hours to Cupola Hut, 6 hours from John Tait to Coldwater Hut, 4 hours to St Arnaud
Hut Details: Lakehead; serviced, 24 bunks, wood burner, water tank: John Tait: serviced, 28 bunks, wood burner, water tank: Cupola: standard, 6 bunks, wood burner, water tank: Coldwater: standard, 14 bunks, open fire, water tank
Miscellaneous: In an active avalanche zone, care needed in Winter-Spring, some un-bridged side streams

Tramping Skills: River crossing

River crossing skills examined...

In Colonial times drowning was referred to as the New Zealand disease because so many people died trying to cross rivers etc. It is hardly surprising given the number of beaches, lakes, rivers and streams in this country.

Drowning remains a major cause of fatalities amongst kiwi trampers to this day.

Contemplating a crossing of the Otira River, Arthur's Pass NP

Because of our profusion of water you need to be able to assess a body of water and have the skill and experience to pick safe crossing points.

Here are some tips I have learnt over the years about what to look for when you approach a water body and how to decide how, when and where you will cross.

To cross or not to cross?

The most fundamental question you need to ask yourself is Do I need to cross this? This seems obvious yet I'm sure some people have never stopped and thought about why they are crossing a particular body of water. As soon as you enter a river you can potentially find yourself in trouble so asking yourself why you need to cross is important.

Hawdon River...how and where will I cross...?

If there is any possible way to avoid entering a river, stream or lake you should take advantage of it. Is there a bridge nearby you could use, can you reach your location without crossing water or is there an alternate route that avoids water crossings. These are all questions you should ask yourself.

Nice...shallow, slow moving water...can be crossed easily at this point!

Every river crossing is dangerous: regardless of the amount of aids, training and experience you have. Even veterans with 40+ years of experience have been swept away by rivers so never assume you are immune. Take every crossing seriously.

Crossable with care as part of a group (...why...there is a bridge 100 meters up-river!)

Cross these rivers aka swirling vortices of death...don't even think about it!

As the Mountain Safety Council (MSC) say... "If there are any doubts about the safety of crossing, don't cross - it isn't worth the risk"

Approaching a river

Develop your own process for assessing rivers, streams and creeks when you are out tramping. If you have a mindful process you are much more likely to use it every time you arrive at a river or stream.

Is it safe to cross here or should I look for another option?

Always stop and assess any body of water- never jump in without stopping and formulation a plan to get you safely to the other side. I will often stop for a drink or snack at a river crossing point. This means I am rested before attempting to cross and gives me time to really eye up the river I'm thinking of crossing.

Brew up before crossing a river in Victoria Forest Park

Never attempt to cross a river that is swollen, discoloured, where you cannot see the river bed or if there are debris floating in it. These are all signs of a flooding, dangerous river.

A discoloured Alfred River...danger Will Robinson!

If you approach a river and hear a low rumbling do not cross. the water is moving rocks along the stream bed, these can easily injure you.

Look for a safe place to both enter and exit the river. Avoid steep or undercut banks, debris piles and areas with dense vegetation as these will be difficult places to enter and exit. 

Not a safe exit point, too much debris to negotiate

Be careful of marked fords- rivers are changeable beasts and what was once easy going may now be a certain death trap. An example is the ford over the mouth of the Travers River in Nelson Lakes NP. The ford is marked, yet if you follow the marked path you are led straight into a swift waist deep channel.

The Travers River ford- deep channel near far bank!

If you go 30 meters downriver it is only knee deep right across the river. It is always worth the effort to explore alternate crossing point before you commit.

The MSC have more information about assessing possible river crossing points on their website.

Cross as a group or solo?

You can cross a river by yourself or as a group. The MSC do not recommend crossing a river solo. The reason for this is that a single person does not have as much stability as two or more. A group is heavier and has more points of contact with the bed of the water course. Even having two makes your chances of successfully crossing much higher.

Obviously there will be times when you must cross rivers singly but you should do everything in your power to avoid doing so.

Group crossing

If you are part of a group you should cross using the mutual support method.

Using the mutual support method

Follow these rules when using the mutual support method:

• Choose a crossing leader before entering the water. They control the crossing- all group members listen close for instructions.
• Choosing a crossing point is a group decision- discuss your options.
• Strongest person to be at upstream end of group
• Upstream person slightly forward of next, you want a shallow incline to the group
• Second strongest person at downstream end of group
• Hands grasp neighbours pack-straps/clothing around their body
• Group should be parallel to the flow of water, this will minimise the force of the water
• Maximum river depth no more than thigh deep. The only exception would be in very slow moving waist deep water. If it is deeper than the thigh DO NOT CROSS regardless of the group size!
• Take small shuffling steps all the way across the water.
• The group moves as one unit- all the way across.
• Move diagonally downstream with the flow of the water. Don't fight the river flow- conserve energy!
• Pack straps loosened and sternum strap undone
• Can be used by 2-5 people, if more than 5 then you need a second group
• Suitable for even and uneven river beds, your neighbours stop you falling into too deep of a hole.
• Always wear footwear as rivers can be slippery.

Nicely done- group using the mutual support method

Crossing solo

If you must cross solo use the solo supported method. Grab a pole at least your height, use this as an extra leg to give you more stability. Shuffle your way across the river maintaining two points of contact at all times.

Solo supported using a pole...

...and in deeper water!

You should really angle this pole across your body with the upstream end planted on the bed of the river.

Solo supported method, pole anchored on river-bed

Walking poles can be used in ankle to knee deep water but are not long enough for anything over knee depth.

Crossing using trekking poles for support

If you have the option of crossing as a group or solo ALWAYS cross using the group method.

General river crossing technique:

Take care to remember these points when crossing any body of water:

Having decided on your crossing point make sure all gear is secured inside your pack. Loose items on the exterior can be lost or drag you under once waterlogged.

NO! Stow that shite in the pack....

New Zealand's steep terrain and large watersheds mean that rivers can rise and fall quickly. Watch for the first signs of impending floods: discoloration and floating debris. Do not camp to close to riverbanks if there is rain forecast for the watershed you are in, floods of up to 10 meters have been recorded before.

The large and steep catchment area for the Anti Crow River in Arthur's Pass NP

Equally, if a river is too high to cross find shelter and wait. It is highly likely that the water level will be much lower after a couple of hours of fine weather. Comprise a striking haiku as you wait...

...music to my ears
is the rain droplets falling
in the inky night...

Undo any sternum straps and loosen but do not remove your waist belt. Sternum straps are a possible choking hazard as the buoyancy of your pack can force them up towards your neck. The waist belt will help with stability if you fall into the water.

Sternum straps as a choking hazard...

Avoid wearing loose clothing that could gather weight from the water. Remove it and stow it until you reach the other side. I'm thinking about fleece trousers and wet weather pants here.

Always wear your footwear. Rivers can be slippery and they also conceal sharp rocks etc. on their beds. I know you like dry boots but safety comes first.

Wet feet but safely across the river!

Dont skip from stone to stone or walk along logs. You are far more likely to end up in the river doing this and may injure yourself. I have seen numerous people take a full immersion bath just because they wanted to keep their boots dry.

Bad crossing technique: don't do this...

...don't do this...

...and never do this!

Use a plastic pack liner or water proof dry bag to keep your pack contents dry. Make sure you will still have dry warm clothing and a sleeping bag for the end of the day.

Standard MSC pack liner bag

My pack showing my plastic pack liner exposed!

What if I fall mid stream?

Good question. Every tramper is going to experience the buttock clenching shock of going adrift in a river at some time, I certainly have.

In 1998 I was part of an Army group crossing a swollen river in the Kaimaniwa Mountains. Three of us got swept downstream for about half a kilometre. I am not ashamed to say it frightened the be-Jesus out of me as I am not a good swimmer at the best of times. We were lucky and all managed to reach the river banks but not everyone has such luck.

If you do fall use your packs natural buoyancy to keep you afloat. Get onto your back, face downstream and use you arms in a sculling motion to work your way to the river side.

Sculling to safety after a river mishap, photo from MSC website

Once there carefully remove your pack and slowly work both it and yourself up the bank to safety.

If you do not have a waist belt or it is undone use the older MSC advice as it is equally effective:

Pushing straps to stabilise pack

Lean back on your pack and face downstream

Push down on the bottom of your pack straps to keep your pack on your back

Keep your legs in a running position and head diagonally towards the bank

Remove pack only if you lose control of it/or it pushes you under. In that case grasp it to your chest and use it as a pack float instead.

Once you are safely out of the water you need to get dry and warm as quickly as possible. Hypothermia is a real risk after a total immersion on even the warmest, sunny day. If required you should stop, erect some shelter, get into your sleeping bag and get some warm food/drinks into you. If you are part of a group you can also light a fire to warm you and dry out clothing.

Regrouping and drying off after river crossing

For more information on river crossing technique see the MSC website.

Practice makes perfect, but....!

Even with mastery of crossing methods and a lifetime of experience people still have problems from time to time. Learning about rivers and how to cross them really is a lifelong learning experience. Hey, I have been tramping for over 25 years and I am still learning new things every time I cross a river.

Contemplating my 7th crossing of  a very low Waimakiriri River at Klondyke Corner, 2018

The best advice I can give you is to take a NOOA, NOLS or an organised river safety course. These will teach you the basic skills you need to survive in New Zealand rivers. This knowledge will be enhanced with the experience you gain every time you cross another body of water.

Be safe out there!

Where's Waldo...more importantly where is Jon

Jon...where have you been?

You would have noticed that there has not been a lot of posts added to my site recently, there is a reason for that.

In December my family and I found out that my mother had terminal cancer and only had a short time left to live. I decided to shelve all tramping plans so I had time to be with her and to support my father and siblings.

We originally thought we might have as much as six months with her. Unfortunately it was a lot more aggressive and she passed away on the 4th of February. She was 70 years and 8 days old. 

My mother was supportive of my tramping although, as mothers are, she was worried I would have an accident every time I went out. I had strict instructions to call her as soon as I got home so she knew I was fine. I used to call her and say it was St Peter calling about her son. She always laughed, she had the same slightly dark sense of humour I have.

My mother Suzanne

Sue the cricket international....

Anyway.....

I'm keen to get back out in the outdoors as it has always been a very peaceful place for me. I will be pursing a more modest tramping program for the rest of Summer and Autumn than I originally planned. Keep an eye out for some new posts shortly.

Love you mum.