Sunday 21 November 2021

Overnight stay at Waiuta Lodge, Waiuta...

A visit to historic Waiuta near Reefton...

As I was saying in my last post I was on my way to visit the historic mining town of Waiuta on the West Coast of the South Island. Waiuta is about 20 kilometers south of Reefton on the road to Greymouth and up a side valley near Ikamatua.

Front entrance to Waiuta Lodge, Big River Historic Reserve


Waiuta was the location of the most profitable gold mine in New Zealand which operated from the early 1930's right up to 1951. Over the twenty odd years of operation they removed over 750 000 ounces of gold from quartz reefs in the area. There was still workable gold in the area but a 1951 collapse of the ventilation shaft meant the mine closed down for good. 


Silver Surfer parked outside Waiuta Lodge


The town became a ghost town with only a couple of residents until the 1980's when the Friends of Waiuta started a campaign to make the old town a tourist attraction. Today there are several old cottages on location and a wealth of old mine relics to explore. One of the remaining buildings is the old hospital which has been converted into a DOC backcountry hut.


The rear of the Waiuta Lodge at Waiuta

Waiuta Lodge is a fully self contained 24 bunk hut with many modern conweniences....it is located atop a low ridge to the south of the main town. The lodge has electricity and water pumped from a local well and has been lovingly maintained over the years by the Reefton DOC crew and Friends of Waiuta.
 

View from the front veranda at Waiuta Lodge

There is a separate ablution block with toilets but also with hot showers which is unusual for a DOC hut. There are great views over the site of the old town from the lodge and there is a large grassy area around the lodge where additional tents could be set up for larger community groups and school parties. 


Toilet and ablution block at Waiuta Lodge

There are picnic tables next to Waiuta Lodge

The living area is open with a large space for activities but there is a supply of folding tables and chairs which can be used when people are eating. The building has a lovely veranda around three sides with many benches to sit on so it is possible to sit outside and watch the weather roll through. 


Waiuta Lodge: interior of the living area

There are 24 bunks spread over three rooms with 4 bunks in one, 8 places on platforms in the middle and 12 in the largest room. All of these have either doors or curtains for privacy and they have electric lighting and windows in each space for natural light. They have those standard DOC mattresses but they are the older style not those plush new navy blue ones that you are starting to see in huts. 


Waiuta Lodge: main bunk room...


Waiuta Lodge: the middle bunkroom...


Waiuta Lodge: the small bunkroom

The area is rich with history so there are a number of interpretive panels, photos and notices around the lodge which gives you an idea of what the town looked like in its heyday. At one stage the town had a population of over 1200 people which is why it had a hospital...that would have been the same number as modern day Takaka and much bigger than modern Reefton...


Photo showing Blackwater Mine in the 1950's, Waiuta Lodge

Waiuta Lodge: some history of the area...

Memorial plaque inside the Waiuta Lodge

The lodge has electric ovens, refrigerators, a wall mounted hot water device, electric jugs, toasters and a microwave. It has a full set of pots, cutlery and crockery for at least 30 people and electric heating as well as a centrally located pot bellied stove for heating. 


Waiuta Lodge: the cookers and pot bellied stove...

There are two refrigerators in Waiuta Lodge

Waiuta Lodge has a full set of cooking pots, cutlery and crockery...

Jon inside Waiuta Lodge on the first day...

I stayed in the lodge for two nights and found the lodge warm and comfortable to stay at. We had no electricity the first day as a local farmer had accidentally cut the power to Waiuta but I got by as I had a gas cooker in the car. If there is no power the water will not work (pumped from an aquifer) but again I always carry supplies of emergency water in my car boot so I was fine. 

It was certainly more comfortable once the power was working...you need a surprising amount of water each day just to stay hydrated and clean. 


View from the Waiuta Lodge veranda towards the old mine

They had limited coal for the pot belied stove and little dry wood so I replenished the wood box from a grove of standing dead manuka just over the boundary fence from the hut. Coal is a great heating material but you do need wood to get a bed of embers for it to burn on...


A blazing coal fueled stove for heat...Waiuta Lodge

My tasty repast on the first night at Waiuta Lodge

I spent two nights at the hut as it was raining far too heavily for me to accomplish my original plan of walking to Big River Hut. It absolutely hosed with rain for much of Thursday afternoon and also on Friday morning. 

I was packed up and ready to head back to Christchurch on the Friday but luckily the power came on at 2 pm and since I had food and books to read I just decided to stay where I was for another night. I shared the hut that night with a couple from Blenheim and there are stories to tell about that experience but not on here...


We have power...Waiuta Lodge!!!

I managed to get a few short walks in while I was there including a walk around the old town precinct, a short walk around the original mine sites and up to the Prohibition Mine site. You will see posts about these trips coming over the next week or so...


View of Waiuta from the Lodge....


Heavy rain sets in over Waiuta...from Waiuta Lodge

I drove back via Lake Brunner and over Arthur's Pass in the rain and a little snow around Porters Pass. There were a lot of waterfalls flowing right up the Taramakau Valley....

I will be heading back to Waiuta to walk to Big River Hut either in late December or early January so look out for that trip. I would also like to take Karen to the Lodge as I think she might find it interesting but we will have to see how things go...


Access: From Reefton head south for 21 kilometers along SH 7 towards Greymouth. Turn onto Waiuta Road at Hukarere and follow Waiuta Road to the lodge. 
Hut Details: Waiuta Lodge: Serviced, 24 bunks, wood burner, electric lights/heating/cooking, water from aquifer, wood shed, toilet/shower block
Miscellaneous: On the DOC hut booking system, must be booked for overnight visit. Close to the historic mining town of Waiuta. The Waiuta Road is a winding, narrow gravel road take care at all times. 

Tuesday 16 November 2021

Lewis Pass Nature Walk, Lewis Pass National Reserve: 11 November 2021

Experiencing nature at Lewis Pass...

I stopped at Lewis Pass last week on my way to Waiuta on the West Coast. I was heading over to walk the Big River Track and to have a look at the old gold mining town there. On the way I stopped and walked the Lewis Pass Nature Loop Track. 

Walking up to the Lewis Pas Tarn walk

I have stopped at the Lewis Pass carpark a number of times over the years but only realised earlier this year that there is a small loop track off the St James Walkway. It is through an area of lovely sub alpine forest and glacial remains a couple of hundred meters away from the tarn. I also wanted to have a look at the trampers shelter at Lewis Pass to check out the amenities there...


The carpark at the Lewis Pass, Lewis Pass National Reserve

Lewis Pass Trampers Shelter, Lewis Pass National Reserve

On the way to the Loop Track you pass by the side of Lewis Pass Tarn so if you have never visited the tarn before stop and have a look as it is very picturesque...

Lewis Pass Tarn, Lewis Pass National Reserve

The first part of the track is along the St James Walkway but you soon arrive at a track junction with a track to the Loop Track heading off to the left...


Lewis Pass Nature Loop Walk:

Lewis Pass Loop Track is only 800 meters long and will take you from 20-25 minutes to complete. To start with you are walking over boardwalk but this changes to gravel track as you make your way towards an area of wetlands and rolling moraine piles left over from some ancient glacier. 


Junction of St James Walkway and Lewis Pas Nature Loop

The area around the Lewis Pass has been sculpted by ice and it was in the recent past. There were glaciers in all of these valleys as recently as 20 000 years ago and there is much evidence of glacial action all around you. The small humps, rock piles and ridges along the walk are old glacial moraine walls while the shallow wetlands are dried up and silted over kettle tarns. 


There are sections of boardwalk on the Lewis Pass Loop Track

Snow on the Freyburg and Spencer Ranges

There are awesome views of the surrounding mountain ranges like the Freyburg, Opera, Libretto and Spencer. Many of the peaks around here are from 1600-2000 meters a.s.l so they often still have snow on their tops even in summer. Lewis Pass is particularly spectacular in the winter when this whole area will be covered with snow....


View west to the Lewis Pass Tops from the Lewis Pass Loop Track

The wetlands next to the Lewis Pass Loop Track

Freyburg Range from the track at Lewis Pass

There are awesome views of the surrounding mountain ranges like the Freyburg, Opera, Libretto and Spencer. Many of the peaks around here are from 1600-2000 meters a.s.l so they often still have snow on their tops even in summer. Lewis Pass is particularly spectacular in the winter when this whole area will be covered with snow....


Information board along the Lewis Pass Loop Track

Winding down towards some alpine bogs, Lewis Pass Loop Track

At one point there is a good view of SH7 the Lewis Pass Highway and down along the mountain ranges which border the Lewis River Valley. The Libretto Range Range runs right along the eastern side of the highway and it is possible to walk from one end of them to the other along open tops...


SH7 and the Lewis River Valley from the Lewis Pass Loop Track

Lewis Pass Loop Track...into the goblin forest

There is an excellent view up the Maruia River Valley from the track and you can see far enough up the valley to see Gloriana Peak and the Faire Queene. This is along the route of the St James Walkway which hugs the valley bottom till past the Faire Queene where the valley widens out into a grass plain...

Looking up the Maruia River Valley to Gloriana Peak


There are a variety of alpine plants along the track including Turpentine Scrub, Snow Tussock, Red Tussock, Alpine Lilly's and other rugged plants. Many of these can be seen at any alpine region in the South Island including Nelson Lakes NP,  Arthurs Pass, Mt Cook and down around Mt Aspiring NP.


A Snow Tussock along the Lewis Pass Loop Track

Lichen and Moss covered Beech Tree

A type of alpine Oleanna on the Lewis Pass Loop

There is a bench seat halfway around the track where you can stop and admire the beauty all around you...I stopped for about five minutes and listened to the birds calling out to each other. 


Pt.1605 and the Opera Range from Lewis Pass Loop Track


Further along the track heads into stunted Beech Forest which is the dominant tree species around Lewis Pass. There are Black Beech and Silver Beech here with larger Red Beech further along the St James Walkway. Most of the forest is cloaked in strands of Lichen which gives it a ghostly appearance. 


Lewis Pass Loop Track...information on Beech Forest

Waterfall coming down off Trovatore (1737 asl)


The track crosses some more glacial remains just before reentering the forest and there are more moraines and glacial erratic's everywhere you look. The area would be a geologist dream location as there is plenty to explore...


Glacial erratic lying next to the Lewis Pass Loop Track

Sub Alpine scrub along the Lewis Pass Loop Track

Crossing a glacial moraine along the Lewis Pass Loop Track

There is a multitude of Turpentine Scrub along the track...this type of woody scrub is excellent as a Firestarter as the wood and leaves are rich in oils and resins. They will burn dry or wet but if you dry them they are one of the easiest types of native wood to get burning. 


A plaque under a Turpentine Scrub, Lewis Pass Loop Track


The track winds its way back towards the track junction and before you know it you can see the end of the track coming into view once again. It is an easy walk but due to the ups and downs it is probably best utilised by people with a moderate degree of agility and fitness. 


There are several species of Beech tree in this photo...

Lewis Pass Loop Track...back on the boardwalk

Nearing the track junction with the St James Walkway

The St James heads off to the right...

There is a trampers shelter at the Lewis Pass carpark with a toilet and water tank. It is intended for those people waiting for a bus or other form of transport to collect them.  While it has over head cover it is a three sided building so you cannot sleep here. It would be a great spot to sit and wait for a couple of hours but the voracious sandflies would soon see you off...


Good view of Lewis Pass Shelter, Lewis Pass National Reserve

Overhead shelter at the Lewis Pass Shelter


Most people are surprised to learn that the central section of the Lewis Pass Highway was only sealed in the mid 1960's. Up to that point the gravel road over Lewis Pass was much more rugged and difficult than Arthurs Pass so saw very little traffic. 


Lewis Pass Shelter: history of the area...

Lewis Pass Shelter: map ofthe local area...


Lewis Pass is usually open over the winter when Porters Pass and Arthurs Pass are covered in snow and has one of only three main highways to cross the Southern Alps. The others are Arthurs Pass and Haast Pass. Lewis Pass is actually a saddle rather than a pass between the river valleys of the Maruia and Lewis Rivers. 


Rainwater tank on outside of Lewis Pass Shelter

There are a number of other tracks from the carpark at Lewis Pass including the Lewis Tops Route, St James Walkway and Rolleston Peak Route. You can also access the Zampa Tops Route off the St James and it is possible to walk to the eastern end of the Libretto Range near Boyle Village along the top of the range...

There are multiple tracks from Lewis Pass carpark

The next time you are crossing Lewis Pass you should stop and go for a stroll...even if you only go take some photos of the Lewis Pass Tarn you will not be disappointed. It is a lovely area and deserves some of your attention...


Access: From SH 7 (Lewis Pass Highway) a short boardwalk track leads to the Lewis Pass Nature Loop Walk. You can access several other tracks from the carpark including the Lewis Tops Track, Rolleston Peak Track and the St James Walkway.
Track Times: It is two minutes to the Lewis Pass Loop Walk from the carpark (follow the signs). Other tracks are from 30 minutes to several days depending on length.
Miscellaneous: The Lewis Pass carpark is in a high alpine area and as such is prone to extreme weather. There is a toilet and trampers shelter near the tarn available to all visitors. Severe avalanche risk on the Lewis Pass Tops & St James Walkway in Winter/Spring so only proceed if safe (check the Avalanche Advisory website).