Sunday 16 February 2020

Rakuira/Stewart Island Trip: a visit to Ulva Island

On Te Wharawhara/Ulva Island....


Karen and I went down to Rakuira/Stewart Island recently to walk the Rakuira Great Walk. We also spent a few days in and around Oban before and after the tramp so we used our time to take in some sights. One of the side trips we did was over to the Ulva Island Nature Reserve in Patterson Inlet on the southern side of Rakuira. 


A small cruise ship sits off Ulva Island in Patterson Inlet, Rakuira

Ulva Island is a native bird sanctuary on an island about 5 kilometers long by one kilometer wide and is home to most of the native birds you would once have found in many places around the coast of New Zealand. It is one of the only bird sanctuary islands that allow people to freely visit and you can get up and personal with birds like Kiwi, Weka, Kakariki, Saddleback and Riflemen. 


The main track junction on Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

There are a number of fine tracks to various beaches around the islands perimeter through thick low-land forest and some large podocarps. The tracks range in length from 30 minutes return to two hours return and give you a glimpse of what New Zealand must have looked like before people arrived here. 


Beautiful regenerating low land forest on Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

It was totally worth the $20 ticket and 20 minute boat ride to see some of the most iconic birds New Zealand has to offer....

From Oban village to Ulva Island

When I was planning the trip to Rakuira I deliberately give us a day before the tramp and a day after the tramp to explore Oban. Oban is the one and only settlement on Rakuira/Stewart Island with a permanent population of roughly 400. This may be the only time I ever get to Rakuira and I wanted to make sure we got our full value from the experience.

The Bluff to Oban Ferry arrives at Rakuira...

We jumped on the 9 am ferry sailing from Bluff to Oban and surprisingly we had a mirror calm ride across Foveaux Straits...at times one of the roughest sections of water in the world. We arrived at Oban by 10 am so we had the whole rest of the day to explore.

A very calm crossing of Foveaux Straits for Jon and Karen.....those are the Titi Islands....


Arriving at Oban at Stewart Island on the ferry from Bluff
Panoramic view of Oban from near the South Seas Hotel


We went to the Oban Four Square supermarket and got some drinks & tasty eats for lunch before we headed for Golden Bay. The supermarket had a excellent range of items in it although some of the prices raised an eyebrow or two....if you are coming down to Rakuira to tramp you could supply yourself from this shop. 

The Four Square Supermarket in Oban, Rakuira

Lovely fine weather we had on the day we arrived...high 20's, very little wind and piles of sunshine. I told Karen how unusual this was for Rakuira where it is usually overcast, wet and windy. 


View of Halfmoon Bay, Oban from in front of the South Seas Hotel

The ferry terminal at Oban, Halfmoon Bay Rakuira

The coastal strip 'downtown" in Oban, Rakuira/Stewart Island
There are a number of ways to get to Ulva Island the most direct and cheapest is on the Ulva Island Ferry from Golden Bay. The ferry goes at regular times during the day from 9am through to 4 pm...it costs $20 for a return ticket..no bookings required and you pay as you board the boat. 

From near the South Seas Hotel you follow Ayr Street up to Golden Bay Road and drop down to the Golden Bay wharf. It is about 1.2 kilometers half of it uphill but the walk is not overly strenuous....

Walking down to Golden Bay with a view of Patterson Inlet, Rakuira

Ulva Island visible in the distance, Rakuira


Map: Oban township, Rakuira/Stewart Island

On Golden Bay Road heading for the Ulva Island ferry terminal

The Ulva Island Ferry is an older motor vessel with space for about 20-30 people on board...on the sailing we went there were only eight of us on the boat. It took about 20 minutes for the vessel to make its way over to the island about three kilometers away in Patterson Inlet.

Is it a leaf off a Broadleaf Tree or....

...is it a ticket for the Ulva Island Ferry!!!!


There was a small cruise ship anchored off Ulva Island and we thought it might be busy when we got there. Luckily the IRB's from the cruise ship were just leaving with the last of the passengers so there were less than 20 of us on the whole island. 

The small cruise ship laying off Ulva Island, Rakuira

On the Ulva Island Ferry heading out of Golden Bay, Rakuira
The Ulva Island ferry at Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

The bush and native birds Ulva Island are famous are present as soon as you step off the boat onto the wharf....the forest comes right down to the waters edge. The beach near the wharf is golden sand which with the warm temperature reminded me strongly of Abel Tasman National Park at the other end of the South Island. I bet that water was cold though...


The wharf and beach at Ulva Island, Rakuira
DOC Rangers hut and old Post Office, Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

Bush track near beach on Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

There are a number of tracks on the island but we decided to walk over to Boulder Bay on the southern edge of the island. This is a nice 20-25 minute walk through low land forest inter-spaced with some impressive podocarp trees.

Map: Ulva Island, Patterson Inlet, Rakuira
DOC Ulva Island track information.....

The trees were mostly Totara and Matai but also some big Kahikatea and Rimu trees as well. The forest was wonderfully cool on such a warm day....


Typical low land forest growing at Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

Young Kahikatea Trees on Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

Karen on the boulder Beach Track, Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

The track is undulating on Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

We saw a large number of native birds while on the island including Pied Oyster Catchers, Tomtit, Weka, Belbirds, Tui, Motua, Yellowhead, Kakariki, Tui, Bush Robin. Kaka and Kakariki. To my great astonishment we also saw several Saddleback (5 different birds) and Riflemen neither of which I have ever seen in the wild before. It was absolutely amazing seeing them so close....


Native Bush Robin, Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

Native Saddleback, Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

Native Tomtit, Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

A Bush Robin who thought my boot might be food, Ulva Island
A Bush Robin who thought my boot lace might be food, Ulva Island

After a short 20 minute walk through the forest we popped out onto Boulder Beach...walking past a Saddleback sitting less than a meter from the track. We sat on a rock here and ate our lunch while being entertained by the antics of a couple of Weka who make the beach their home. 

Exiting onto Boulder Beach, Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira


Weka staking a claim to Boulder Beach, Ulva Island

In the far distance you could see the outer islands of Stewart Island over Patterson Inlet and the other half of Rakuira off to the south of us. 

On Boulder Beach looking out into Patterson Inlet, Rakuira

DOC sign for Boulder Beach, Rakuira

Dense bush backing onto Boulder Beach, Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

This sleek looking dude joined us for luncheon...Boulder Beach, Ulva Island, Rakuira

After 30 minutes we set off for the wharf once more walking back along the track we had followed to get to the beach. It was really lovely in the forest listening to all the birdsong while the wind softly whistled through the trees.


Karen is watching Kakariki in the trees on Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira: A young tree fern...

There are a series of posts scattered along the track I believe they are part of a information brochure package you can buy from the DOC office in Oban. Each of the numbers corresponds to some point of interest on the track...a tree, a type of bird, some terrain feature..


Audio posts on Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira: there are a number of benches you can rest at..

An interesting type of Moss, Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

Regenerating low land forest on Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

We arrived back at the wharf and beach after about 20 minutes of walking...there was a ferry there waiting to take a group of  guided tour folk back to Rakuira and a smaller boat. The skipper of the smaller boat worked for the same water taxi company as the ferry and asked if we wanted to go back early. It had been a long day so of course we said yes and jumped aboard. 


The wharf at Ulva Island Nature Reserve, Rakuira

Jon checks out the shelter at Ulva Island wharf...


We did not go direct back to Golden Bay as the boat had to collect a trio of snorkel divers from Glory Bay out on the tip of Rakuira. We motored out to the bay and collected the three guys who had been spear fishing in the area then we shot back to Golden Bay. It was awesome as you usually have to pay big dollars to get a boat ride out there and we got it for free.


In the boat motoring out to Glory Bay...Rakuira

Snorkel divers at Glory Bay, Patterson Inlet, Rakuira

We got back to Golden Bay wharf at least 40 minutes early which suited us just fine as we wanted to get back to our accommodation for the night at the South Seas Hotel.


Looking back to Glory Bay, Patterson Inlet, Rakuira

The Ulva Island Ferry wharf at Golden Bay, Patterson Inlet, Rakuira

It took us about 15 minutes to walk back to Oban over Golden Bay Road just in time to check in for the evening. We enjoyed a reviving ale in the bar as a celebration to an excellent start of our trip....

Jon walking back up Golden Bay Road to get to Oban

Dusk sets over the South Seas Hotel, Oban, Rakuira/Stewart Island

If you ever visit Rakuira/ Stewart Island you absolutely must visit Ulva Island regardless of what else you do. It was one of the highlights of the whole trip for both Karen and myself. When I go back to Rakuira I am going to schedule more time on Ulkva Island so I can walk down to the end of the island to get the full experience of this gem.  

Put a trip to the Deep South on your 'to do' list immediately.....

Access:  From Oban take Ayr Street up to Golden Bay Road & down to the wharf at Golden Bay. 
Track Times: It is 1.2 km's/ 20 minutes walk from the South Seas Hotel to Golden Bay. There are multiple tracks on Ulva Island ranging in time from 20 minutes return to 2 hours return. Our trip to Boulder Bay took 35 minutes return. 
Miscellaneous: The Ulva Island Ferry sails roughly every 1.5 hours and takes around 20 minutes to reach the island. There are toilets but no potable water on the island so take supplies with you. This is a bird sanctuary so respect their habitat and avoid getting too close. 

Monday 3 February 2020

Trotters Gorge, Trotters Gorge Scenic Reserve, Otago: 26th January 2020

An Otago oddity....Trotters Gorge Scenic Reserve

Karen and my latest adventure was a trip down to Rakuira/Stewart Island to walk the Rakuira Great Walk. It was an awesome trip and has inspired me to start planning another visit to walk the NW Circuit or Southern Circuit sometime over the next year.


Trotters Gorge Scenic Reserve, Moeraki, North Otago

We also did many other great things on our holiday one of which was a visit to the Moeraki Boulders and the Trotters Gorge Scenic Reserve close to Moeraki. Trotters Gorge is a lovely wee reserve about 10 minutes south of Moeraki down Horse Range Road. There is a very nice campsite, picnic area and several short tracks into the nearby limestone gorge area.


Start of the tracks at the Trotters Gorge Scenic Reserve, Moeraki, North Otago

While the reserve is very nice the main reason I was here was to baggins another backcountry hut...in this case the OUTC Trotters Gorge Hut. Every trip we take I make an effort to bag any huts easily accessible from the main route we are following. The OUTC hut is a rustic, quirky character...it is log cabin style and set in a large clearing with an awesome looking swimming hole close to hand.


The OUTC Trotters Gorge Hut, Trotters Gorge Scenic Reserve

Even though it is only 20 minutes walk from the campsite it is a real backcountry hut which gets a ton of use from the Otago University Tramping Club.



Walking to the OUTC Trotters Gorge Hut

Our whole visit to this very lovely reserve was all about me bagging the OUTC Trotters Gorge Hut a short 20 minute walk up the river. As such Karen opted to stay at the car and wait for my return as we were a bit uncertain just how long it would take to walk to the hut.



The tracks at Trotters Gorge Scenic Reserve, Moeraki, North Otago

Walking down to Trotters Creek, Trotters Gorge Scenic Reserve, Moeraki, North Otago
The track to the hut starts at the campsite and immediately crosses Trotters Creek which was very low in the dry conditions but I imagine a beast if it rains. The track was absolutely lovely with many mature trees inter-spaced with dense bush and regenerating forest cover. I was under the trees for the whole way except for the four river crossings required along the track.

Map: Trotters Gorge Scenic Reserve, Horse Range Road, Moeraki


Crossing Trotters Creek, Trotters Creek Track

A gate to stop unauthorized 4 W/D access, Trotters Creek Track

Second crossing of Trotters Creek, Trotters Creek Track
The track is an old 4 W/D track that leads right to the front door of the Hut....the OUTC hut is the only building up this river valley and I imagine the road is there to allow maintenance to be carried out on the hut from time to time.


Lovely native bush along the Trotters Creek Track


Kamihia, Kahikatea and Totora forest at the Trotters Creek Track

While there are four river crossings on this track...they were all very easy to complete as the water level is very low and the river beds are flat even gravel. I would use caution if visiting the area during or after heavy rain as I could see signs of flooding quite a way from the river. Trotters Gorge is a high narrow limestone valley which would constrict a flooded river to a narrow and deep channel.


Third crossing of Trotters Creek, Trotters Creek Track

Trotters Creek Track: dense bush surrounds the track

 The limestone bluffs are interesting looking and are covered with small caves and indentations which the local birds have adopted as their home. I saw a lot of native birds up here including Tui, Kereru, Bellbirds and Fantails.



Fourth and last crossing of Trotters Creek, Trotters Creek Track

Limestone Bluffs and seasonal flowers on the Trotters Creek Track

The last section to the hut is the worst along the track...it is up a very gentle slope which has become rutted by passing vehicles. Even here it is easy walking and would pose no problems to 90% of moderately fit people.


Climbing the hill at the end of the Trotters Creek Track

Coming to the side track to the OUTC Trotters Creek Hut
The very last section of the track is through Kanuka as this is the site of an old farm now long abandoned and slowly reverting to forest.


At the OUTC Trotters Gorge Hut

There is a stile at the end of the track which leads directly to the hut siting in its large open clearing next to the creek. There is vehicle access to the hut site but you will be walking along the path as only people with a key for the first gate will get their 4 W/D up the track.


Entrance to the OUTC Trotters Gorge Hut, Trotters Creek Track

It is a quirky looking structure...the main hut with bunk-rooms, kitchen and living areas is in the style of a log cabin except here the logs are vertical not horizontal. There is a large open sided shelter attached which would allow tents to be erected under cover as well as serving as a drying/socialising area.


The rustic 16 bunk OUTC Trotters Gorge Hut

The hut has 16 bunks, a wood burner and toilets but I did not see any water tanks so water must come from the nearby Trotters Creek. It looked like someone had been working at the site as the hut had a new wooden veranda and some obvious repairs to the shelter were under way. 



The OUTC Trotters Gorge Hut is log cabin style...

Jon at the OUTC Trotters Gorge Hut...

A large limestone hill near the OUTC Trotters Gorge Hut

The hut was heavily shuttered as all back-country structures must be when they are this close to the road. Scumbags and idiots would love to come up here to vandalize a hut like this..it happens all over the country so I am sure it has happened here in the past. 


Close up of the rustic OUTC Trotters Gorge Hut
The nearby creek was very low but there appears to be a very fine swimming hole in the river that I am sure the hut visitors use when the river is a bit higher. The forest is dense around the hut site...and the hut is surrounded by high limestone bluffs which gives the valley a micro climate of its own. It is almost an oasis as the surrounding area of north Otago is bone dry while this reserve was lush, green and cool. 


Mostly dry swimming hole at the OUTC Trotters Gorge Hut


Last view of the OUTC Trotters Gorge Hut

I spent about 10 minutes around the hut site and then headed back down river as we still had a 2 hour drive to get to Dunedin our destination for the night. 


Heading back to the Trotters Gorge Scenic Reserve

You return to the camp site along the same track..there are no alternates or other tracks you can follow. It is a nice walk in the remnant forest..it would be worth taking a walk up the track to see the river even if you were just here for a picnic. 


Walking through Manuka on the Trotters Creek Track

You have a better view of the high limestone bluffs as you walk back to the campsite...the gorge is deep and some of the bluffs look to be up to 200 meters high in places. The creek itself looks like a flooder. If you were here camping or staying in the hut you would have to dee-dee if it started to rain or you could easily get stuck up the valley for a while. 


The Trotters Creek Track is an old 4 W/D track

Limestone bluffs line both banks of the Trotters Creek Gorge, Trotters Creek Track

Deeper water at the third crossing of Trotters Creek

I saw a number of people as I was walking to and from the hut site...they were probably bagging the hut like I was...


Semi mature Lancewood Tree on the Trotters Creek Track

The forest is a mixture of Lancewood, Cabbage Trees, Kanuka, Kamahi & Broadleaf as well as some large Totora, Rimu and Kahikatea trees. The under growth is mostly ferns with some other low shrubs and vines...this is typical for this kind of low land coastal forest. 


Kamahi Forest along the Trotters Creek Track

The second river crossing is the deepest one...it is a meter deep in places but where I crossed it was only up to my ankles. There is no way to avoid wet feet crossing the creek at this point so do not come up here if you don't want wet boots. 


Deep water at the second crossing point on the Trotters Creek Track

Trotters Creek Track:I saw several people walking along the track

Just before the first/last river crossing point are a series of deep pools...even with the lack of water in the rest of the catchment these pools were a couple of meters deep. I could see some of our native fish (Galaxiids) swimming around...smaller specimens but it is good to see that they continue to live in the river. 


Deep pools in the bed of Trotters Creek, Trotters Gorge Scenic Reserve

Another swimming hole/pool at Trotters Gorge Scenic Reserve

The last part of the track is the small climb up to the campsite after first crossing the creek one more time. This is the easiest of the river crossings so it is possible to get some distance up the track without getting wet feet. 


At the start/end of the Trotters Creek Track

So that is the walk up to the OUTC Trotters Creek Hut...a nice wee track through lovely forest with some gentle river crossings thrown in. If you are ever travelling between Christchurch and Dunedin why not take a short detour and visit the reserve. A great spot for a picnic, a nice camp site and sporting a number of very nice short tracks. 



Access: From Moeraki turn off SH 1 onto Horse Range Road approx. 2.4 km's south of Moeraki Boulders. After 4 km turn onto Trotters Gorge Road and follow this for a short distance to the reserve.
From Palmerston turn off SH 1 onto Horse Range Road on the northern outskirts of Palmerston. Follow this road for approx. 11 km, then turn onto Trotters Gorge Road and follow this to the reserve.
Track Times: From Trotters Gorge car-park to the OUTC Trotters Gorge hut is one hour return.
Miscellaneous: Numerous stream crossings required so this is not an all weather track. Do not walk this track during/after heavy rain!!! Muddy and rocky in places with gentle hills to climb. There are several good tracks to be accessed from the reserve.