Lewis Pass National Reserve: Lewis Pass Tarn

Return to the tarn at Lewis Pass 

The first walk I finished on my recent trip to Nelson Lakes was actually the short walk to the tarn at Lewis Pass. I was passing by over Lewis Pas and stopped for a break here. I have been here many times in the past...it is always beautiful and the surroundings are stunning. 

View down the Lewis River Valley from Lewis Pass Tarn

Every visit to the Lewis Pass Tarn is different depending on the weather you encounter..it sets the scene for how you view your experience. 

Exploring the area around the Lewis Pass carpark:

I was on my way to Nelson Lakes NP for a couple of days and Lewis Pass is always a good spot to stop for a rest as it it is roughly 2-3 hours from Christchurch. It's good to get out and stretch your legs before tackling the downhill drive to Springs Junction. 

Carpark for the Lewis Pass Tarn/St James Walkway

Map: Lewis Pass and surrounds...

The carpark at Lewis Pass is just before you reach the highest point of the road on the eastern side of the mountains. There is space here for around a dozen cars and especially on fine days and weekends it will be full of trampers and voyageurs enjoying the surrounding mountains. 

Space for about 20 vehicles here at Lewis Pass

From the carpark there are a couple of tracks you can access...on the southern side of SH 73 is the track to the Lewis Pass Tops and the series of lovely tarns along the top of the range of mountains to the east of the Maruia River. On the carpark side of the highway there are tracks to the Lewis Pass Tarn, Lewis Pass Alpine Loop Walk and of course the St James Walkway.

View along the Maruia Valley to the Spencer Range

The tarn is moderately large and quite large waves can develop on the surface as the wind is often blowing across the pass with a bit of force. During colder weather I have seen the tarn completely frozen over though this only happens if there is a lot of snow laying on the ground at the pass.

The Libreto Range overlooks the Lewis Pass Tarn

Lewis Pass Tarn from the St James Walkway

You walk down the St James Walkway for about the first 400 meters of the track to where the track diverts along the Nature Walk. It is worth walking down to this end of the tarn just for the view back over the tarn and down the Lewis River Valley. 

View back over the Lewis Pass Tarn

The tarn is at around 900 meters a.s.l and it is one of the few alpine tarns here in New Zealand easily accessible from the road. Most of the others are atop mountain ranges and require you to walk a couple of hours to view them. 

Multiple tracks start at Lewis Pass

There is a day shelter, toilet and viewpoint at the eastern end of the tarn all along the same short side track from the carpark. The shelter is there for people walking off this end of the St James Walkway...it is open sided but it will keep the rain off you as you wait for a shuttle to collect you. 

Track to the Lewis Pass Day Shelter

Lewis Pass Day Shelter, Lewis Pass National Reserve

There is a watertank attached to the side of the shelter supplied from rainwater run off and along drop toilet just past the hut. You could easily make yourself reasonably comfortable here for a couple of hours...

Day shelter at Lewis Pass...water tank and toilet

The view from the lookout is across the tarn and down the Maruia River Valley to the Spencer Range. The Spencer Range has peaks above 2200 meters and includes mountains such as Gloriana, Una, Desa and the Fairie Queene. These were all names used in a Tennyson poem from the early 1800's. 

Lewis Pass Tarn from the lookout

There was still snow on some of the peak as we have had a late winter this year with  significant snow falls as late as October. It is starting to melt now but it will be an impedance for people crossing the high mountain passes through to the end of December. 

High points along the Spencer Range

To the north east of the tarn lies the Opera and Libretto Ranges and if you are here on a calm still day you can often take beautiful reflective images of the mountains on the surface of the tarn. 

Freyburg Range is to the west of Lewis Pass Tarn

The Opera Range is beyond the Lewis Pass Tarn

I was at the tarn for about an hour filming the tarn and also walking the Lewis Pass Nature Walk. I have vlogs on the way for both of these and they will be appearing on my You Tube channel in due course...

Quiet day at the Lewis Pass Tarn carpark

Lewis Pass is 400 meters west of the carpark

Lewis Pass is another 400 meters up the highway and it is one of the four ways you can drive from east to west over the Southern Alps. The others are Arthurs Pass, Haast Pass and Hope Pass. The West Coast is wetter than the east so when you travel one of these roads you will see a change in the vegetation with Beech forest and tussock lands dominating the east and dense Podocarp forest to the west. 

This is the northern terminus of the St James Walkway

I also walked along the Lewis Pass Nature Walk to get some material for a vlog about the track...I will cover that in a separate post!

Access: From SH 7 (Lewis Pass Highway) a short boardwalk track leads to the Lewis Pass Tarn lookout. You can access several other tracks from the carpark including the Lewis Tops Track, Alpine Nature Loop Track and the St James Walkway.

Track Times: It is two minutes to the Lewis Pass Tarn from the carpark (follow the signs). Other tracks are from 30 minutes to several days depending on length.

Miscellaneous: The Lewis Pass Tarn is in a high alpine area and as such is prone to extreme weather. There is a toilet and trampers shelter near the tarn available to all visitors. Severe avalanche risk on the Lewis Pass Tops & St James Walkway in winter/spring so only proceed if safe (check the Avalanche Advisory website)

YouTube: Lewis Pass Tarn

DOC Backcountry campsites: Deer Valley

Looking at DOC Campsites/Campgrounds

I have started a new vlog series on my companion YouTube page all about Department of Conservation campsites and campgrounds. When I am out and about on tramping adventures I often pass through or stay at campsites. I thought it might be useful to people to have a look at some of these sites and discuss their features. 

At the Deer Valley Campsite near Lewis Pass

Going forward I will publish more posts about backcountry campsites but to start with lets have a look at a nice site near Lewis Pass...Deer Valley. 

Deer Valley Campsite:

Deer Valley Campsite is a well known front country campsite administered by the Department of Conservation. It is located in Lewis Pass National Reserve and is just down the road from the track to Nina Hut and the start of the St James Walkway. 

Turn off to Deer Valley Campsite on SH 7

The Deer Valley Campsite is clearly signposted

The campsite is well signposted on SH 7 over Lewis Pass...there is a large and obvious DOC sign at the entrance to the campsite and a Transit NZ sign about 400 meters either side of the access road. 

Gravel access road to the Deer Valley Campsite

The campsite is close to the road but it is in a very picturesque location with dense Beech forest surrounding it, nearby mountains rising to over 1500 meters and the Lewis River. The river runs right along the edge of the campsite and it is deep enough in places to swim in while still being a gentle mountain stream. 

Lewis River flows through the Deer Valley Campsite

Picnic table at the Deer Valley Campsite

There aren't a lot of facilities at this campsite...flat camping areas, some picnic tables, a vault toilet and a nearby river for water. The site is on a first come -first served basis with no provision to pre book sites. Most of the more basic campsites follow this pattern...the closest DOC staff are in Reefton and they are not driving here every day to manage the visitors. 

Deer Valley Campsite has a vault toilet

Be aware that there are MANY sandflies here....bring plenty of DEET with you!!!

Deer Valley Campsite: campsite payment station...

Fees for a campsite of this type are $8 per person per night and payment can be made online, with a DOC Campsite Pass or by using campsite tickets available from DOC offices and some outdoor retailers. There are instructions about payment on the pay station attached to the fence around the toilet.  

Deer Valley Campsite is first come-first served

Campsites are super cheap in New Zealand especially the DOC ones. The prices were increased at the start of this year to keep in step with the general increases in other parts of the economy. It was the first increase in nearly a decade. Please pay your fees as the money is used to maintain these campsites so that future generations will be able to use them. 

Deer Valley campsite on the DOC pages

There are more campsites at the northern end of the area with a mix of gravel caravan spots and flat grassy tent sites. Just follow the access road a short distance to the furthest end of the road where there is a turning circle and some flat ground. 

View to the north end of the Deer Valley Campsite

 If you are using a tent this is the best place for you to pitch up. There are some flat grass areas next to the river and amongst the beech trees. As always watch for overhead hazard's before setting up as Beech trees are notorious for shedding branches in high wind. Dont pitch too close to the river if it is raining as I have seen this river top its banks before.... 

The northern end of the Deer Valley Campsite

Deer Valley Campsite: the Lewis River...

So...that is the Deer Valley Campsite...it is basic but you could be quite comfortable set up here for a night or two. This site is very typical of the DOC front country campsites scattered around the country. . I will be looking at a variety of other sites and camp grounds to give people a good idea of what to expect..

Details: Deer Valley Campsite is three kilometers east of the northern terminus of the St James Walkway in the Lewis Pass National Reserve. It is clearly sign posted off SH 7- Lewis Pass Highway. The campsites are positioned amongst Bech forest with a lovely river running down the southern edge of the campsite. Foleys Track to the top of the Libretto Range starts directly opposite the entrance. 

Facilities: The campsite has 10 non powered campsites, a vault toilet, water from nearby Lewis River. Sites are first come-first served and payment is via DOC Campsite Pass or campsite tickets deposited in the provided receptacle. Permeant fire ban in place here...DO NOT LIGHT ANY FIRES!!!

YouTube: Deer Valley Campsite

My oldest tramping kit item: Kovea Backpacker stove

...a faithful friend over many years... 

Last weekend was Canterbury Anniversary and I spent three days in Nelson Lakes National Park on a base camp trip. I stayed at the motel and went for day walks about the park. I had planned something a bit grander but I am having problems with my ankle so this seemed like the better option. 

Making a coffee with my Kovea Backpacking stove

While I was visiting the Mt Robert carpark I utilised my oldest piece of tramping kit to boil water for a coffee. It was my Kovea Backpacker stove which I have now owned for 32 years!!!

In the shelter at the Mt Robert Carpark, Nelson Lakes NP

I thought we could have a look at this awesome bit of kit. 

In use for 32 years...

I don't have a lot of my old camping gear from back in the 1990's but one item I do still own is a Kovea Backpacker stove I brought way back in 1990. I have used this small stove on and off for the last 32 years and it has been on many adventures with me both in New Zealand and overseas.  

Kovea stove in use, Lakehead Hut in 2016

I originally brought this stove for use in the field when I was a Signaler in the New Zealand Army. Back in those days we were issued Hexamine cubes for heating our meals...Hexamine or 'hexie' is a cube of petrochemical based solid fuel.  Hexamine is a slow and inefficient cooking material and also very smoky which is less than tactical. 

Esbit cubes are a form of Hexamine

Most of us eventually brought a small butane gas stove to take out on field exercises. This meant you could cook faster and with less visible smoke and a medium sized gas canister would easily last you 4-5 days.

Just a side note...I still have vivid memories of the smell of Spaghetti and meatballs cooking over a hexamine cube...it smelt wonderful. It is one of the most powerful memories of that time in my life. 

Kovea Backpacker Stove

 I brought this stove from a outdoor equipment store that is long since closed. I cannot for the life of me remember its name but it was located opposite Ballentine's on Cashel Street. This was WAY before Macpac, Kathmandu, Torpedo Seven and their ilk. If anyone can remember the store drop a comment below...

Various medium sized gas canister brands

Post army I used it for camping and tramping trips intermittently for many years. When I got back into tramping properly in the early 2010's this was the stove I hauled out and used for every trip. I only relegated it to secondary use after I brought a new Titanium stove in 2016. 

Kovea Backpacker Stove: a quick look...

Here are some features and specifications of the Kovea Backpacker stove:

The stove comes in a small nylon bag and it can be folded into a flat shape to fit the bag. The pot support arms are articulated and fold back to rest above the gas regulator knob. Before use the arms must be opened and a gas canister screwed onto the bottom of the stove. 

The arms on the Kovea Backpacker stove fold

Brew time at the Mt Robert carpark

You must ensure the pot support arms are fixed in their grooves before balancing a pot on the stove...this is to stop them moving and spilling your contents. There are small notches the pot arms fit into and when engaged the stove is as stable as any stove of this type. 

Lunch at the Mt Robert carpark shelter

I was using my Toak's 1.3 liter cook pot with the stove...this pot is titanium so it is very light and robust. I can easily fit a 350 gm gas canister inside as well as the Kovea stove with my cup and ancillary gear on the top. All of this is carried inside a small blue nylon stuff sack. 

I was using my Toaks titanium cook pot

I was also using my Sea to Summit Delta mug on this occasion...I could just have made the coffee in my cook pot but you tend to burn your lips. Titanium conducts heat really well so it is always better to use a separate cup preferably made of plastic. 

Sea to Summit Delta mug in use

The stove folds down into a small nylon bag and if you fold it correctly you should have no problems fitting it back into the bag. You could leave the bag at home but it protects the stove and stops soot getting all through your other gear in your pack.. 

Kovea stove folded to be packed

Here are some additional photos of the stove in use over the years...

In the Blue-Grey River bed, Victoria Forest Park (2015)

On a day trip to Packhorse Hut, Banks Peninsula (2014)

Lunchtime at Anchorage Hut, Abel Tasman NP (2017)

Post dinner drinks at Packhorse Hut, Banks Peninsula (2016)

 Nina Hut, Lewis Pass National Reserve in 2015

Mid Robinson Hut, Victoria Forest Park (2015)

Up at East Hawdon Bivy in 2013

This is one of two Kovea stoves I currently own the other is a Kovea Moonwalker which is a remote canister stove. That is another lovely camping stove but I will leave discussion of that for some future post...

Look for future trips featuring the Backpacker stove

I really like my Kovea Backpacker stove and still pull it out of my gear storage and take it on trips from time to time. Its latest multiday outing was to the Abel Tasman Coastal Walk with my sister earlier this year. It doesn't get as much use as it once did as I currently own seven other backpacking stoves but I would never sell it or give it away...

You Tube: Kovea Backpacker Stove