Routeburn Track (partial): Part I of II: December 2-3, 2019

Wild weather on the Routeburn Track....classic type 2 fun!!! 

My 2019/2020 Great Walk season opened this year with an attempt to walk the Routeburn Track down in Fiordland National Park. I say attempt as I didn't actually manage to get past the first hut (Howden) on the Divide side of the track.

Start of the Routeburn Track at the Divide Shelter, Milford Road

I picked perhaps the worst week of 2019 to try walking the track..it had it all; extreme rain (400mm over three days), 120 kph winds, sleet, hail, snow down to 1000 meters, thunder, lightning and a partridge in a pear tree....so they closed the track. 

Nice!!!

Typical zero visibility weather at Howden Hut, Routeburn Track

Once the track was closed I went to my pre-planned alternate...I walked two hours down the Greenstone Track to McKellar Hut for a night and then headed back to the Divide. This was certainly an example of Type 2 fun: awful at the time but good afterwards.

Anyway here is how it developed.....

Day 1: Te Anau to Howden Hut

My original plan was to walk from the Divide Shelter on the Milford Road and finish at the Routeburn Shelter on the Lake Wakatipu side of the Ailsa mountains. The Routeburn can be walked in either direction and looking at the topographic map this looked like the best way....more about that later.

Map: The divide Shelter to Howden Hut

I took the 7.05 am Tracknet shuttle to the Divide...rain was expected in the afternoon so I wanted to get to the hut before it turned to custard. I was the only passenger...which surprised me but I think a lot of people were put off by the weather forecast. It is 89 km from Te Anau to the Divide Shelter or about an hour travelling time.

DOC Service Centre at Te Anau...pick-up point for the Tracknet shuttle

Looking back at the Lakefront Motels and Hotels were I stay in Te Anau

I was at the Divide Shelter and geared up by 08.30...the shelter is a large affair but quite basic...it would provide some measure of cover from the rain but is exposed to the prevailing wind so it is quite cold. This is deliberate as DOC are trying to dissuade people from sleeping here overnight.

The Divide shelter on the Milford-Te Anau Road

Interior of the Divide shelter, Milford to Te Anau Road

The Routeburn Track starts at the bush edge about 20 meters from the shelter...it is well signposted and there are a number of information boards with details of hut booking, avalanche advisories and the gear you need on this track. 

The Routeburn might be a Great Walk but this is some dangerous terrain...high, exposed and prone to sudden and violent weather. You need to be fully equipped for the Alpine environment if you are walking the track.

Start of the Routeburn track, Milford Road side

DOC toilets at the Divide car park, Milford Road

Information boards at the start of the Routeburn Track, Divide car park

There was a massive patch of Ongaonga right next to the track entrance...I'm surprised DOC has not removed it as most tourists would have any idea of how dangerous it is....

Massive patch of toxic Ongaonga at the Divide Shelter car park

The track is a cracker...wide and beautifully benched at the start it soon becomes rougher but right along its length it is a much nicer track than I usually find myself walking. It is 1-1.5 hours to the first hut (Howden) with another hour added if you take the side trip to Key Summit which I would recommend if it is fine weather.

On the Routeburn Track, Divide shelter end

Routeburn Track, examples of native fuchsia trees along the track

This area is well known for its groves of native fuchsia trees...there are some stonking examples along the side of the track. The bark from these trees make an excellent fire starter but the wood is super dense and next to useless as firewood.

Closer view of a native fuchsia tree, Routeburn Track

After about a kilometer the flat track starts to climb to the Divide...at just over 800 meters it is the lowest west-east crossing of the Southern Alps. The gradient is easy enough with a steady altitude gain along a number of switch backs and some slowly ascending track. It takes about 45 minutes to get to the Divide from the end of the track.

Start of the climb to the Divide, Routeburn Track

Fuschia and fallen tree on the Routeburn Track

The forest is mostly beech trees with the odd podocarp tree...Rimu, Totora, Matai and Rata. There are some massive examples along the track like the one in the photo below all of which are covered in vines and epipythes. I rains a lot down here (over 12 meters per year in places) so the undergrowth is moisture loving and super dense.

Large example of a Totora tree, Routeburn Track

The Routeburn Track is a well benched, easy to walk track

You have the odd view of your surrounds as you climb...of the Milford Road and the surrounding mountains but mostly you see forest...

Milford Road just visible from the Routeburn Track

View of distant Darran Mountains from the Routeburn Track

That is the Te Anau to Milford Road just visible through a clearing in the thick bush...

Milford Road from near Divide Creek Falls, Routeburn Track

You reach the Divide Creek Falls after 20 minutes...they are picturesque in the dry but after rain they are really thundering as I found when I walked out this way three days later. There is a safe bridge to cross the falls....just as well as the drop off to the river at the bottom of the valley is quite sickeningly high.

Approaching the Divide Creek Falls, Routeburn Track

Bridge at the Divide Creek Falls

A calm Divide Creek Falls, Routeburn Track

There are a profusion of ferns growing along the side of the track...not surprising given how much water is around. Past the waterfall there are a series of switchbacks and then a long slowly climbing track up to the Divide about another 25 minutes along the track.

Ferns carpet the sides of the Routeburn Track

I liked the snowberries and flowers growing along the banks of the track..they added a touch of color to the usual greens, tans and browns of the New Zealand bush.

...snowberries on a track bench, Routeburn Track...

Climbing the switchbacks on the Routeburn Track

Jon on the Routeburn Track first day of the trip....still fresh

Some parts of the Routeburn Track are rocky

There are a couple of clearings in the forest where you can see the surrounding mountains, in the photo below is a view of the Darran Mountains which line the opposite side of the valley you are walking up. All of the mountains down in Fiordland are big olde chunks of hard rock. Many of them still had a covering of snow on their tops due to the un-seasonal bad weather they had over the proceeding couple of weeks.

Mt Lyttle, Darran Mountains from the Routeburn Track

Getting close to the Divide on the Routeburn Track

There were a couple of places along the track where water was seeping out of the moss and top soil onto the track....perfectly good for drinking if required as it is filtered by running through the grass, tussock and moss.

Water running off tussock along the Routeburn Track

Sub alpine scrub near the Key Summit turn-off

Hollyford Valley from near the Key summit track

At the Divide Saddle looking at Mt Christina

I eventually arrived at the turn off for the Key Summit track after 45 minutes I had only seen one person up to this point...the track was empty due to the early hour of the day. I stashed my pack in the bush just down from the Key Summit turn off and set off up the track with just my camera in hand. 

Side trip to Key Summit

The side trip up to Key Summit takes about an hour to an hour and a half...I only went just past the tarns so it was about an hour in total. From Key Summit you have excellent views of the Ailsa and Livingstone Mountains, the Hollyford and Greenstone Valleys and down to Lake Howden. If it is raining or cloudy dont even worry about coming up here you wont see a thing...

Key Summit turn off from the Routeburn Track...color bloom is from the sun...

One hour return to the Key Summit Track...

The track to the tarns is a series of switchbacks and sidle tracks which eventually drop you out at the top after 20 odd minutes. From there you can walk around the boardwalk or head further up hill to the high point at around 960m asl. The first switchback section is quite steep but once on top the rest of the climb is easy. 

On the Key Summit track...Fiordland NP

View down the Hollyford Valley from Key Summit Track

Interesting weaving of track side Hakatere

Breaking out of the forest on the Key Summit Track

There are a couple of small tarns which are very picturesque but I imagine they are more interesting when full of rain water. There is a alpine bog with a nice boardwalk around it and interpretive panels explaining some of the plant life in the area.

If you are keen you can walk the remaining 20 odd minutes to the top of the nearby hill which affords you the best views of the surrounding area. 

The tarns at Key Summit, Fiordland National Park

View of Ailsa Mountain Range from near Key Summit

The Darren Mountains from near Key Summit

Lake Roberts from the Key Summit Track

Alpine fields near Key Summit, Fiordland NP

After about 20 minutes at the top I set off back down the track so that I could continue on my way to Howden Hut. By the time I was heading back down the Key Summit Track it was getting busy as the day trippers started arriving from the Divide Shelter end of the track. 

If you are driving down the Milford Road this is a feasible day trip but make sure you are fully equipped for all weather conditions as they can change in the blink of an eye down in Fiordland. Make sure you have a good rain parka, water, food and some warm clothing. 

The Hollyford Face is on the right side of the valley....

I got back to my pack at around 11.30 am and started down the last 15 minutes of the track to my home for the night Howden Hut. 

To Howden Hut from Key Summit

From the Key Summit turn-off it is only 15-20 more minutes to the hut....it is all down hill so once you are at this point is is easy going. The track down to Howden Hut is very nice and well maintained as it would need to be given how much rain they get down in Fiordland. 

Back at the Key summit track, Routeburn Track

Jon heading down to Howden Hut for the night...

I passed a DOC worker about five minutes from the Divide who was clearing debris out of the drains...I would imagine this is a daily job for the Hut Wardens as the drains would need to be carefully maintained at all times. 

Heading down to Howden Hut, Routeburn Track

Thick bush heading to Howden Hut, Routeburn Track

Routeburn Track, the drainage ditches are needed.....

A cross spectrum of typical flora along the Routeburn Track

Howden Hut came into view after 15 minutes walking...it is a Great Walk hut with 28 bunks and has flushing toilets, solar lighting and wood and coal supplied for the hut firebox. It is located about 20 meters away from the outlet of Lake Howden...the outlet runs into Pass Creek about a hundred odd meters down the valley. 

First view of Howden Hut, Routeburn Track

Turn off to Pass Creek near Howden Hut, Routeburn Track

The track to Pass Creek starts just near the Howden Hut toilet block and is a difficulty alternate track down to the Upper Hollyford Road. I cannot imagine why anyone would use it but it is there none the less..it is really a last ditch exit track if the main track got damaged.  

Side view of Howden Hut, Fiordland National Park

Normally most people will only stop at Howden Hut for lunch but I had decided that I would avail myself of a short first day in case I had transport problems. If you were continuing on your next destination would be Lake McKenzie Hut another 3-4 hours up the Routeburn Track.

What Lake MacKenzie Hut looks like....

At Howden Hut..and the start of the rain...

I got to Howden Hut around 12.00 and had the rest of the day in and around the hut to explore...the hut was due to be full that night as there was a large school group booked and the remainder was various trampers coming off the Routeburn or Greenstone Tracks. 

Howden Hut in Fiordland National Park

The hut is a design from the 1980's but it is well appointed as it is still a part of the Great Walk network with their superior facilities. It had gas cookers, solar lights and flushing toilets and there is a permanent hut warden from November through April. 

She might have been an old lady but it was clean and tidy inside...probably down to the hut wardens I would imagine. 

Toilet block at Howden Hut, Fiordland National Park

Lake Howden is about a kilometer long and 500 meters wide and was very placid when I arrived in the late morning. Water was only just flowing out of the outlet...this would change as the rain set in later that afternoon. 

Lake Howden and Jean Batten Peak, Fiordland National Park

Bleak weather forecast at Howden Hut...it was overly optimistic!!!

There was a very bleak though prescient weather forecast posted for severe weather and heavy rain for the next three days. I had been aware of this so had alternate plans sorted which consisted of  a booking for three nights at Lake Howden Hut in case I got stuck there. In the event my planning paid off as the track was closed the next morning due to flooding.

It always pays to have alternate plans as our New Zealand weather is notoriously fickle.....

Avalanche advisory inside Howden Hut

Howden Hut: the dining and living space downstairs...

Lots of good information at Howden Hut....

Howden Hut: the cooking area and benches...

...the upstairs bunkroom at Howden Hut

I spent the early afternoon around the hut....I had lunch and chatted with people off the guided tours which pass through here and went for a walk to the far end of the lake just before 2 pm. I also walked up the Routeburn for about half a kilometer so I could take some photos of the Hut and Lake Howden. 

The maintained grass and bush area around Howden Hut

Howden Hut from further up the Routeburn Track

Lake Howden and the Livingstone Mountains from the Routeburn Track

Mt Lyttle from near Howden Hut...this is Pass Creek

Promptly at 3 pm it began to rain and boy did it bucket down...it was solid frontal rain from 3pm on Monday and was still raining when I left Te Anau on the Friday afternoon. By 7pm the lake level was raised and all of the creeks, streams and even the track were covered by a torrent of water. Things did not look good for the next day....

View of the heavy rain from Howden Hut veranda....

The hut was full that night...we were over capacity at 58 people but thankfully the hut warden had a couple of spare mattresses so everyone had somewhere to sleep. Most of these were the school kids who had been driven off their camping trips.

The school kids were from Otago Girl High School and it was good fun watching many of them experience their first night in a back-country hut. Hopefully the bloody awful weather doesn't put them off the lark for the rest of their days....

Day 2-3: Howden Hut to McKellar Hut 

In the morning the DOC Ranger had placed a closed track sign at the beginning of the next section of track to Lake McKenzie Hut...so no finishing the Routeburn for Jon. It sucks of course but that is just a part of tramping in New Zealand.

DOC sign advising of Routeburn Track closure...near Howden Hut

This left me with a dilemma...stay put for a couple of days, go back to the Divide & hitch to Te Anau or walk down to McKellar Hut and stay over night. Howden Hut was super full of school kids and other assorted odds and sods and I was here to tramp....I had my hut pass with me so I was good to go.

What to do....????

Packing my gear in the early morning for a speed run to McKellar Hut

I choose option three... so I packed up all my gear, chucked on my wet weather gear and set off for the two hour walk down the Greenstone Track to McKellar Hut.

The Greenstone Track starts right next to Howden Hut and sidles along the side of Lake Howden and Lake McKellar down to the serviced hut at the head of the Greenstone Valley. It is a nice, easy track and would be fun on a sunny day...as it was damp it was just distance to be covered. 

The track to MacKellar Hut starts to the east of Howden Hut

It was super wet with driving rain, strong wind and the occasional hail shower as I walked down the Valley. You are in the forest for most of the way with the occasional clear space at the ends of the lakes and the flats as you approach McKellar Hut.

A stream flooding onto the track, Lake  Howden to McKellar Hut Track

It was really nice flat walking going down the Greenstone Track...there are a couple of small hills to cross but nothing too difficult. There are seven creeks along the way but all of them were easy to cross and the largest of them even had a bridge so this is an all weather track.

Rainwater runs from the forest on the Lake Howden to McKellar Hut Track

Interesting mossy tree on the Lake Howden to McKellar Hut Track

Creek near Lake McKellar, Lake Howden to McKellar Hut Track

The open area at the head of Lake McKellar was a bit boggy so be careful where you are walking...stay on the track. I didn't take many photos as it was absolutely bucketing with rain so I had to stow my camera in my pack to protect it. I really need a waterproof Go Pro so I can take pictures in any conditions....something for the wish list.....

I visited a new park on this trip..Greenstone Saddle marks the border of Fiordland and the Greenstone-Caples Conservation Park. I really must come down and walk the Greenstone-Caples Circuit some time.......

Lake McKellar from the flats at the head of the lake

I managed to make it to the hut in just under two hours which is the stated time on the DOC signs. McKellar is a 24 bunk serviced hut...as I had arrived before 11am I was one of only a handful of visitors...by the evening the hut was full to capacity.

There was no hut warden the night I stayed so myself and a couple of other trampers got the fire going just after lunch and maintained it through the day to make the weather easier to bear. I spent most of the day eating, talking to other trampers, playing cards with a mixed group of international trampers and reading my book. 

McKellar Hut, Mt Aspiring National Park

Bridge to the lower Greenstone Valley at McKellar Hut

McKellar is a very nice hut...it was significantly renovated and extended in 2011 and has all the mod cons like solar lights and inside water. Still has long drop toilets but flushing versions cannot be too far off into the future given the use it gets. No gas stoves are provided so it was lucky I had packed my titanium stove and a small gas canister..hot food and drinks....good planning Jon!!!

My Titanium stove set up in Wharewharangi Hut in October....

I settled in and watched a progression of totally soaked to the skin trampers arrive over the day. It absolutely hosed with rain all day and into the night but I was dry, warm and contented inside the hut.

So that was the first two days of my tramp...come back soon and see what I did on day three and four of my aborted Routeburn Track walk....

Access: From Te Anau drive/shuttle/hitch to the Divide Shelter on the Milford Road...approximately 90 kms out of Te Anau. 

Track Times: 1-1.5  hours The Divide to Howden Hut: Great Walk, 28 bunks, wood burner, water tank, wood shed, flushing toilets, 3-4 hours hours to Lake MacKenzie Hut: Great Walk, 50 bunks, wood burner, water tank, wood shed, flushing toilets, 2-3 hours to McKellar Hut: Serviced, 28 bunks, wood burner, water tank, wood shed, toilets

Miscellaneous: Howden Hut and Lake MacKenzie Hut are Great Walk huts on the  DOC Hut booking system, they must be booked for overnight visit before starting the track. There is an instant $50 penalty fine for not booking a spot AND you have to pay the hut price. McKellar is a serviced hut so a hut ticket or hut pass is required. Note All of the huts on the Greenstone Track are very busy so a bunk is on a first come basis. The side track to Key Summit will take 1 hour in total.