Kohanga Atawai/Manson Nichols Hut: Lake Daniell, 13-14 December 2020

 A return to Lake Daniells...

Karen and I headed out on another outdoor adventure over this last weekend. We both had time off work so we packed our gear and headed up to Lake Daniells and the Kohanga Atawai/Manson-Nichols Memorial Hut. 

Karen's alternate 'Silver Surfer' at Marble Hill Campsite

Looking up the Maruia Valley towards Lewis Pass

This is the fifth time I have visited the lake and the fourth time I have stayed in the area but this was Karen's first visit to this iconic spot.

The carpark at the Marble Hill campsite...

Gearing up at Marble Hill carpark...

From the carpark at Marble Hill campsite (five kilometers from Springs Junction) you walk on an easy track for 8.4 kilometers or 1.5 to 3 hours walk. Despite its closeness to the road Lake Daniells has a lovely remote feeling about it..it seems like you are a lot further away from civilization than you really are.

The kiosk at the start of the Lake Daniells Track

Information panels at the Marble Hill track kiosk....

It was an excellent weekend and while the hut was busy I never felt like there were too many people around.

Information panel at the start of Lake Daniells Track

Map panel at the start of Lake Daniells Track

 We both had a great time and will be visiting again soon probably to camp at the Lake Daniells Campsite right next to the hut. Anyway...lets have a look at the Lake Daniells Track and the area around Lake Daniells. 

On the Lake Daniells track....

There is an excellent 20 person hut at Lake Daniells...the Manson-Nichols Hut was opened in July 2020 and replaces the older hut that once sat in the same spot next to the beautiful lake. The hut is now on the DOC hut booking system so make sure you book a bunk or campsite before setting out for the hut. There is now a DOC Hut Warden in residence from December through April and also over the long holiday weekends. 

Map: Marble Hill to Lake Daniells

Actual start of the Lake Daniells Track at Marble Hill

The forest starts right from the start of Lake Daniells Track

The track starts at the Marble Hill campsite off SH 7 five kilometers short of Springs Junction...there is plenty of parking at the track start as this is also a popular day walk. It t is a lovely and mostly flat track well suited to anyone with a modicum of fitness and will take 1.5-3 hours.

Sluice Box bridge, Lake Daniells Track

The track is in the forest for much of the way to the hut with the exception of two short sections crossing river flats in the mid reaches of the Alfred River. The first bridge you cross over is the Sluice Box a short gorge about five minutes walk down the track. The river is constricted here from about a kilometer of braids down to less than 30 meters wide so the water is deep and swift. 

Maruia River upstream of the Sluice Box

Maruia River downstream of the Sluice Box

On the far side of the Sluice Box you climb up and around a spur to gain access to the Alfred River Valley where you will be walking for the remainder of the day. The Lake Daniells Track is flat forest travel for about 3/4 of the way and the rest is either open river flats with a couple of small climbs to avoid gorges in the river. 

Alfred and Maruia River confluence near Marble Hill

Lake Daniells Track: on the way around Pt. 771

Thirty minutes along the track and at a spot closer to the Alfred River you will see a sign on the track pointing out the Alfred River bed. There are two river flats along the track...the first is about a kilometer along the track while the second is closer to the upper gorge. These are both prominent on any topo map of the area and provide good waypoints to measure your progress against. 

Sign for the Alfred River along the Lake Daniells Track

Plenty of boardwalk on the Lake Daniells Track

On the Lake Daniells Track...

Pt.1157 and the first flat along the Alfred river

The Alfred is a moderately sized river it is usually around knee deep anything over this will be the river in flood. There are no farm animals or sources of pollution in the Alfred River Valley so it can be used for drinking water. I would still take precautions and filter, boil or treat it before use just to be safe. 

On the Lake Daniells Track near the first flat

End of the first flats along the Alfred River, Lake Daniells Track

Open Red Beech forest along the Lake Daniells Track

As noted in my last post about this track there is a famous tree branch just above the first river flat that serves as a swing and climbing apparatus for thousands of children each year. It is so obvious because it is shaped with right angles something you just about never see in the wild. There is quite a large Beech tree right next to it that must be 400-500 years old....

The famous swing tree on the Lake Daniells Track

Karen wasn't game to try the swing....

Past the tree swing you climb up and over a small spur running right down to the river...this is the lower gorge on the Alfred River. You climb about 60 meters above the river and loss sight of it for about a kilometer but you can still hear it gurgling away in the background about a hundred meters away. 

High above the Alfred River Gorge, Lake Daniells Track

The Lake Daniells Track was dry and well maintained...

At the top of the spur is a flat plateau featuring goblin forest and sizeable sections of board walk surrounded by dense bush. Eventually you start the descent down to the second of the river flats which run along next to the Alfred River for some distance. 

Lake Daniells Track: more of the boardwalk...

Near the end of the Alfred Gorge, Lake Daniells Track

Dropping down to the second river flat on the Alfred River

Lake Daniells Track: a small cascade just off the track

Both of the Alfred River Flats would be great places to free camp as there are multiple possible camp sites along the river side and under the smaller trees on the edge of the forest. This is all DOC land so you would be totally within your rights to pitch camp...if you do so please take care of your wastes in a appropriate manner. 

Be careful not to camp on a river island...this river is renown for flooding and you could find yourself cut off with no way to reach the track. 

End of the second flats on the Alfred River....

...and back into the forest along the Lake Daniells Track

There is easy access to the Alfred River just before you start the short climb up to the Pell Stream lookout and seat. You can resupply with water from here and this is also one of several places where you can cross the river to get to the 4 W/D track to Pell Stream. 

The Alfred River at the start of the Upper Gorge....

There is a track on the far side of the Alfred River which goes past the upper gorge and then delivers you to Balderson's Camp a private hut at the Peel Stream/Alfred River confluence. BTW: Peel Stream Hut is one of the crown jewels for any budding hut bagger...the track from here to the hut is awful and takes about four hours to cover roughly six kilometers. Fewer than 40 people a year would visit the old NZFS six bunker...

View upstream of the Alfred River near the Upper Gorge

Starting the climb up to the Pell Stream lookout

The climb up to Peel Stream seat is very gentle and this is the largest hill you will be crossing on your way to Lake Daniells. You reach Troll Bridge after walking for one to one and a half hours from the carpark...this is the mid point along the track. From here it is 4.3 km's to Lake Daniells or 4.1 km's back to the carpark.

Climbing up through Goblin Forest near the Pell Stream seat

Karen on the boardwalk above the Upper Alfred Gorge...

Lake Daniells Track: closing on the Troll Bridge

Lake Daniells Track: Troll Bridge is the half way mark

Peel Stream seat is about 400 meters further along the Lake Daniels Track from Troll Bridge and is a good spot for a break. At some time in the distant past it had a view of Peel Stream but the forest has now blocked this out. In fact there is no view except of the forest around you...

There is a steep and not well marked side track from here down the hill to the Alfred River. Please take caution if using it as there are big bluffs along the river...this is the least safe way to access the confluence of the two watercourses. From Peel Stream seat it is all downhill for the next 1.5 kilometers as you drop down to the Alfred River once again. 

The Pell Stream bench, Lake Daniells Track

Resting at the Pell Stream seat, Lake Daniells Track

A handsome Bush Robin visited us while we were having a break at the Peel Stream seat..it hopped around for ten minutes eating the biscuit crumbs Karen and I were throwing it. They are lovely friendly birds and I always enjoy their company when I see them on my outdoor adventures. 

The bird population in the area is getting better with intense 1080 drops and the extensive trapping program in this area of high bio diversity. I saw or heard Tui, Bellbirds, Kiwi, Weka, Ruru, Bush Robin, Kakariki, Kaka, Scaup, Paradise Ducks and Silvereye on this trip.

A Bush robin at the Pell Stream lookout...

A Bush Robin keeps us company at Pell Stream seat

There are a bucket load of bridges along the Lake Daniels Track which is great as it makes this an all weather track. Back in the 1990's you could get stuck up the track due to flooded rivers but DOC has been steadily improving the condition of the track for the last decade. No longer is it the tediously muddy, swampy slog it once was.....

Lake Daniells Track: bridge number seven....

View down to Alfred River from near Pell Stream

The Upper Alfred River is quite gentle...

There are many bridges on the Lake Daniells Track

Another cascade along the Lake Daniells Track

You eventually find yourself back on flat land in the upper reaches of the Alfred River close to Fraser Stream. The Alfred River curves off to the right of the track while you start the climb up and over the ancient debris field that dammed the valley and caused Lake Daniells to form. 

Karen admiring a huge Red Beech, Lake Daniells Track

Bridge over stream coning off Pt. 1086, Lake Daniells Track

The debris fell off what is now Pt. 1086 in some cataclysmic rock fall around 5000-7000 years ago...it flowed down the surrounding hills and up the other side of the valley. Water backed up behind the fall and eventually carved an outflow which is the present Fraser Stream. 

Climbing the debris field that formed Lake Daniells

At the top of the debris field terraces...Lake Daniells Track

A very similar thing happened on the Dart River several years ago and has now formed a new lake in the mid reaches of that river. The debris field rises in three tiers and deposits you at the top in an area of windfallen trees...it is approximately 1.5-2 kilometers to Lake Daniels from this point...

Windfall area at the top of the debris field, Lake Daniells Track

View from our rest spot near the debris field, Lake Daniells Track

Lake Daniells Track: on the last two kilometers to the lake...

After a short break at the debris field we set off on the last leg of the walk to Lake Daniels and Manson-Nichols Hut. The land is flat for the whole rest of the track and is along nicely maintained track and a lot of boardwalk. 

When I first came up here in the early 1990's this was the muddiest, wettest part of the track with puddles up to and over the knee. Thankfully this is a thing of the past and this last section is a lovely easy walk to end your days exhertions...

Mixed track and boardwalk along the Lake Daniells Track

There is an interesting hollow log along this section of the track...it must have fallen over decades ago and has slowly rotted inside. It is now totally hollow and is the kind of place that would make a good emergency shelter if lost...block the ends with cut off foliage and stuff it with forest duff and it would make a warm and cosy home for the night...

Hollow log about a kilometer from Lake Daniells

View inside the hollow log, Lake Daniells Track

Just past the hollow log you will get your first view of Fraser Stream which is the outflow channel for Lake Daniells. It is normally at very low flow but if you come up here after a lot of rain and the lake is full it can become a raging torrent of water. Fraser Stream will be off to your left side for the remainder of the track to the lake. 

Fraser Stream...outlet for Lake Daniells

Fraser Stream runs along the side of the Lake Daniells Track

The forest opens up as you get close to Lake Daniells

The forest thins right out when you get down to the lake...because of the dense foliage you cannot access this end of the lake but you can see it through the trees for the rest of the way to the hut site. The hut is only 200 meters away and is first sighted through gaps in the forest... 

Open forest next to Lake Daniells, Lake Daniells Track

First view of Manson-Nichols Hut through the forest

You just pop out of the forest and there is the beautiful lake and in a clearing next to it the Manson-Nichols Hut. This is the second hut to be built at this location the first was built to commemorate three trampers killed in a hut hit by a rock slide in a big storm in 1975. The new hut started construction in late 2019 and was officially opened in May of 2020 just after the Covid-19 lockdown. 

Side view of Manson-Nichols Hut, Lake Daniells

Lake Daniells, Lewis Pass Scenic Reserve

Zippity arrives at Lake Daniells...

It took Karen and I two and a half hours to walk to the lake including a 15 minute break at Peel Stream seat and two other 5 minutes breaks. We arrived at around 1 pm and quickly went inside for a well deserved lunch break before exploring the surrounding area. 

At Lake Daniells on day one:

It was probably the nicest day I have ever experienced at Lake Daniells with clear blue skies, sun and zero wind. Every other time I have been here it has been raining, windy or cloudy....The lake and surrounding hills looked stunning baking in the warm weather.

Manson-Nichols Memorial Hut, Lake Daniells

Manson-Nichols Memorial Hut, Lake Daniells

There is a 20 bunk hut and a campsite at Lake Daniells located next to each other on the new and enlarged clearing made for the new hut. 

The jetty and picnic area in front of Manson-Nichols Hut

Manson-Nichols Hut jetty and Lake Daniells

I really loved the old hut on this site which I last visited back in 2015...it was a classic late 1970's design with a central living space and two 12 bunk rooms off to the sides. A survey of the hut in 2017 showed that it had started to deteriorate and really needed to be replaced. 

The old Manson-Nichols Hut as seen back in 2015....

Manson-Nichols Hut II sitting in its larger bush clearing

 The new Manson-Nichols Hut is awesome and the wider clearing around it has made it a warmer and sunnier place to spend time. 

View of the area in front of Manson-Nichols Hut

The lake was almost still when we arrived and we went down to have a walk along the shore and to take some photos of the surrounding area...

A beautifully clear day at Manson-Nichols Hut, Lake Daniells

The track to the far end of Lake Daniells is on the east side...

The lake water was as warm as a tepid bath and over the afternoon several people including the Hut Warden took advantage and had a swim around the jetty. The water is waist deep up to 60 meters from this end of the lake after which it drops off steeply. 

I'm gathering quartz stones from Lake Daniells...

Northern end of Lake Daniells from the jetty

Karen and I went down and had a walk around in the water to cool our feet. If I was the only person here I would totally have gone for a swim.....

Lake Daniells is very shallow...

After a look around the hut including a short walk along the newly re marked and cleared track around the lake we sat inside and has some afternoon tea and a brew. There were 15 of us in the hut that night including a couple of family groups and three tents set up in the campsite. 

Angler at work next to Lake Daniells jetty...

At the start of the track around Lake Daniells...

The interior of the hut is built beyond capacity so that even with 15 people it was roomy and spacious. There are lots of both bench space, tables plus benches to accommodate a lot of people in the living area. I especially like the separate boot room so you can put your boots on away from the sandflies and the chalk board wall for the kids to draw on. 

The chalk boards inside Manson-Nichols Hut..Chur da Bois...

The whole chalk board at Manson-Nichols Hut

View of Lake Daniels from inside the hut...

Later in the evening we went for a walk an watched a guy land a big Trout from the lake...it was about 45 cm's long and sleekly fat. He caught it by casting right off the end of the jetty in the shallow water. Fishing is allowed in the lake (with the relevant permit...) and I have often seen people catching fish just not this big. They filleted it and smoked it over the firepit for their dinner that night...yum, yum.  

Cheez-itz for a pre dinner snack....Manson-Nichols Hut

Picnic tables in front of Manson-Nichols Hut

Firepit at front of Manson-Nichols Hut

The Manson-Nichols Hut campsite shelter

At dusk we saw some people shining a light into the lake near the jetty...we went to have a look and a couple of moderate sized freshwater eels were swimming around the jetty. They are an endangered species so you are not allowed to catch them here but Freshwater Eel or Tuna (Maori name) is bloody delicious smoked...try it if you ever get the chance.

Kohanga Atawai/Manson-Nichols Hut in the early evening

Late we sat in the hut near the wood burner and talked to a group of older trampers from Christchurch who were also there for the weekend. They had visited a lot of the same spots I have been too so we compared notes on new and visited tracks. I recommended Rakuira/Stewart Island as none of them had ever visited...

Manson-Nichols Hut in the early evening..

Another couple lit the fire to cook their dinner...unnecessary in my opinion as it was quite warm that night. It was lovely to have Karen for company...I really appreciate having her with me and we both enjoyed the atmosphere. We slept that night in the bunkroom with the sleeping platforms luckily up against a wall due to our early arrival at the hut. Only one snorer other than myself so that was ok.....

Interior of Manson-Nichols Hut

It was a really lovely day and I am just sorry we didn't book in for two nights instead of the one. We have already decided that next time we will stay for longer so we have time to walk up to the far end of the lake so Karen can see what it is like there. I would also like to go over the spur and visit the Wilderness Forestry hut located in the next valley....for the baggins!!! 

Day 2: Lake Daniell to Marble Hill Campsite

I was up and moving about around 6.30 on day two of our tramp...the first person up as usual. I stoked the fire as it was chilly and soon had it merrily blazing away and warming the living space in the hut. I went out for a walk around the campsite and walked down to the jetty to watch the ducks swimming around. 

Lake Daniels just after dawn on day two

The Lake Daniells Track starts on the western edge of the clearing

Jon on the Manson-Nichols Hut veranda

Lake Daniells in the early morning light....

We were keen to go to Hanmer for a swim on the way home so we wasted no time in making coffee. Breakfast that day was Backcountry Cuisine Porridge for me and Muesli and Yoghurt for Karen followed by an O-Meal Hashbrown Potatoes packet with tea and coffee for drinks. 

Preparing breakfast for Karen and I, Manson-Nichols Hut

The Backcountry breakfast meals are some of their best and the Hashbrown Potatoes are always good vittles. I normally spend more time on breakfast when I tramp with other people so we took our time eating.

O-Meal Hashbrown Potatoes are top vittles!!!

Once breakfast was finished we quickly packed up and were ready to head out the door at 8.30 am...we were the first to leave the hut that day. Everyone was heading out to the carpark that morning so anyone staying in the hut on Monday night was going to be a new visitor. 

After some last photos of the lake under a light cover of cloud we jumped on the Lake Daniells Track and headed for home...

Last view of Lake Daniells on day two...

Back on the Lake Daniells Track heading for home

Lake Daniells Track: walking along the lake edge

First boardwalk of the day on the Lake Daniells Track

Heading along the Fraser Stream on Lake Daniells Track

We made excellent progress along the track...it is much cooler walking in the early morning and you are on a slight decline all the way out to the carpark. We heard a lot of birds calling in the forest including several different Kaka up near the hut. They have recently started to recolonise the area after a multi decade long absence...

More boardwalk...Lake Daniells Track

Kaka are one of the bird species on the rise...they used to be confined to the mountains of Fiordland and Kahurangi NP in the South Island. They have started to move to new areas and in the last three years I have seen/heard them in Abel Tasman NP, Nelson Lakes NP, Lewis Pass, Arthurs Pass and around Mt Somers. 

Passing the hollow log on the Lake Daniells Track

Karen leads the way down the Lake Daniells Track

Fraser Stream from the Lake Daniells Track

Before we knew it we were descending the debris field and crossing the flat ground between it and the climb up to the Pell Stream seat. 

Descending the debris field along the Lake Daniells Track

Back at the first bridge of the day...Lake Daniells Track

The sun broke over the top of the surrounding mountains as we got closer to the start of the climb and it made for the usual beautiful photos with the play of light and dark on the trees...

Making our way through the Red Beech forest...

On the climb to the Pell Stream bench...

You cross a couple of bridges before you get to the seat...the second is about 5 minutes walk from the Pell Stream lookout...

Crossing a bridge along the upper Alfred Gorge, Lake Daniells Track

Start of the climb to Pell Stream seat

We made it to Pell Stream lookout in under 40 minutes and sat on the seat for a 15 minute break before continuing on our way. We had a conversation with the group of older trampers from Christchurch near here...they were also heading for Hanmer Springs for a swim. It is a great tonic for sore limbs and tired muscles after a tramp...I often stop on my way past and soak for an hour or two...

Lake Daniells Track: Pell Stream seat on day two...

Lake Daniells Track: moss covered fallen log along the track

Lake Daniells Track: heading back down to the Alfred river

Twenty five minutes more saw us back down at the Alfred River and I walked down to the river and took some photos. The water was knee deep...this is the best spot for crossing the Alfred provided you are happy to bush bash your way to the Peel Stream 4 W/D track. 

On the bed of the Alfred River...

Alfred River below the upper gorge...downstream view

Alfred River below the upper gorge...upstream view

After a ten minute break at the Alfred River we donned our packs and headed back down the track...it was just starting to warm up as we headed out once again. 

Lake Daniells Track: on the flat ground along the Alfred River

Breaking out into the second flat on the Alfred river

At the eastern end of the second river flat we stopped and rested for five minutes...enough time for a drink and a snack. I was admiring the interesting looking ferns growing at this spot and seen in the photo below. Karen thought they had the same shape as Marijuana leaves.....which they kind of do!!!

The river was gurgling along just next to the track...I looked over the side of the bank and spotted a excellent looking swimming hole located there. It looked cool, deep and inviting...

Lake Daniells Track: an interesting fern near our rest spot...

Mid reaches of the Alfred from the Lake Daniells Track

Lake Daniells Track: open forest between the two river flats

More fern flanked track near the Alfred river

We headed down the track once more and soon found ourselves at the start of the first river flat along the Alfred River...it is just over a kilometer from here to the Sluice Box and about 1.5 km's from the end of the track.

Back on the first river flat along the Lake Daniells Track

Plenty of campsites on the first flat of the Alfred River

 Some child had dropped a toy on the track through here...I hope it was one of the kids in the hut with us the previous evening and that they retrieved it on their way home...

Deputy Dogge gets lost in the woods...

...someone is missing a Police dog.....

Lake Daniells Track: start of the sidle around the last spur

We headed along the last section of the track the climb up and around the last hill before the Sluice Box. It is easy climbing especially knowing that you are almost finished and on your way to a toasted ham, cheese and onion sandwich with fries and a cold fizzy drink...

Climbing towards the Sluice Box...Lake Daniells Track

Last climb up to the Sluice Box bridge...

We stopped on the bridge over the Sluice Box to take some photos and admire the water. It had cleared up a lot from the previous day so Karen was able to fully appreciate just how deep it is at that spot. The channel is kept clear by the force of water and would easily be 3-4 meters deep. 

If you are passing over Lewis Pass enroute to other destinations it is well worth stopping and just walking to the Sluice Box...it would be a nice 20 minute return trip from the carpark. 

Karen taking photos on the Sluice Box bridge

Then the final 400 meters through the forest on the way to the information kiosk at the start of the track...we passed a family group through here who were headed into the hut for the night....the second such group we encountered that day.

On the last forested stretch near the Sluice Box, Marble Hill

Back at the Marble Hill campsite road end....

Back at last at the start/finish of the track...Karen had noted the time as we left and it took us 1 hour and 50 minutes to walk from Lake Daniells to the carpark. That includes about 15 minutes of breaks spent on the the track so it is possible to cover the distance in around one hour and thirty minutes....

I am walking off the Lake Daniells Track...

Start and end of Lake Daniells Track

We had fun on this trip despite the number of people at the hut. The Lake Daniells Track is a lovely wee walk...long enough to getaway from civilization yet short and easy to walk. I have always loved this track since the first time I visited many years ago and every time I come back the feeling is amplified. Karen loved it as well and we are already planning a return trip to camp next to the hut for a couple of days. 

Lots of cars at the Marble Hill carpark

Lake Daniells is near the peaks in the middle of the photo

Lake Daniels is a fine destination for anyone but now that the hut is on the DOC hut booking system this is just about as good a first tramping destination you will ever find. You know from the get go that you have somewhere to sleep for the night. Lovely track, beautiful trout filled lake to swim in and a brand new and super comfortable hut...what else do you need?

You should plan your trip today.

Access: Take SH7, the Lewis Pass Highway, turn off at Marble Hill camp site 5 km's west of Maruia Springs, track starts next to car park shelter

Track Times: 8.4 kilometers or 2-3 hours to Manson-Nicholls Hut at Lake Daniell

Hut Details: Kohanga Atawhai/Manson-Nichols Hut: Serviced, 20 bunks, wood burner, water tank, wood shed, toilets: Lake Daniells campsite: standard rate, space for 5-10 tents with additional space in the forest. There is a very nice campsite cooking shelter with a bench, water tank and several picnic tables. 

Miscellaneous: All weather track to a good standard with all streams now bridged. Kohanga Atawhai/Manson-Nichols Hut is on the DOC hut booking system. It can be busy in summer or over the holidays and a hut warden will be in attendance at these times.