Mt Robert Circuit: Nelson Lakes NP: 7 May 2021

 Back in Nelson Lakes NP on the Mt Robert Circuit...

I went for a flying visit to Nelson Lakes NP in the first week of May with the intention of doing a series of day walks in the area. I was using St Arnaud as a base and walking some tracks around both Lake Rotoiti and also Lake Rotoroa. My trip was cut short due to a crisis at home but I managed to walk the Mt Robert Circuit track and the previously posted Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk.

The shelter at Mt Robert carpark, Nelson Lakes NP

Vehicles at the Mt Robert carpark, Nelson Lakes NP

I have previously walked the Mt Robert Circuit via Pinchgut and Paddy's Tracks but decided I would revisit them as I am scouting out a possible trip to Lake Angelus later this year. I also love Nelson Lakes NP so always enjoy visiting my favorite tramping destination. 

Visible sections of Mt Robert Circuit from Kerr Bay

The circuit starts from the Mt Robert carpark and heads up the steep Pinchgut Track before curving around Porangahau/Mt Robert and heading back down to the carpark. 

Start of the Pinchgut Track at Mt Robert carpark

Brunner Peninsula and Lake Rotoiti from Pinchgut Track

The best views are visible once you break the bush-line after walking for about an hour and once you are clear of the forest you can see as far out as Nelson Bay, Mt Owen, Kahurangi NP and south down the Southern Alps. Relax Shelter is another ten minutes along the track and is a place to get out of the elements for a break and it has water tanks and toilets if required.

A seat at the edge of the bushline...Mt Robert, Nelson Lakes NP

Relax Day Shelter, Mt Robert, Nelson Lakes NP

From the Relax Shelter you leave the Mt Robert Ridge Route and head down the start of Paddy's Track to Bushline Hut. There are awesome views along this section down to Lake Rotoiti, St Arnaud and out to the Richmond Range. You pass the Nelson Ski Club (NSC) Kea Hut on the way before arriving at 14 bunk Bushline Hut. 

St Arnaud Range from Paddy's Track, Nelson Lakes NP

NSC Kea Hut, Nelson Lakes NP

View down to Lake Rotoiti from Paddy's Track

Bushline Hut (1996), Nelson Lakes NP

From Bushline Hut you drop down the northern edge of Mt Robert along an exposed track through tussock and stunted Matagouri. Once you lose a bit of altitude it is back into the forest for the last couple of kilometers out to the Mt Robert Road.

Heading down Paddy's track to the Mt Robert Road

Nelson Bay is visible from Paddy's Track, Nelson Lakes NP

 It was good to get out of the sun after walking across those exposed faces for a couple of hours and this part of the forest was full of native birds. There is a surprising amount of bird life along the circuit and this is actually the only place I saw a Weka on this trip. 

On Paddy's Track...Mt Robert, Nelson Lakes NP

Mt Robert Road leads up to the carpark...Nelson Lakes NP

I spent the night at Kerr Bay Campgrounds on the shore of Lake Rotoiti near St Arnaud. I was tenting in my new Coleman tent at the campsite and it was an interesting experience as it was quite cold over night. At one point I had a Kiwi walk right past my tent on dusk literally a few feet away calling out...amazing!

The Silver Surfer at the Kerr Bay campground, St Arnaud

As you probably already know my partner Karen was knocked off her bike on the way to work by a person who ran a red light...Bastid!!! I found out after dinner on the first day so the next day I got up early and headed back to Christchurch. I will be back at Nelson Lakes NP to finish off my planned program sometime in the future but first lets have a look at the Mt Robert Circuit. 

Heading for Mt Robert via Pinchgut Track:

The Mt Robert Circuit is a 3-5 hour tramp following Pinchgut Track and Paddy's Track on Pourangahau/Mt Robert. Both tracks start from the carpark and the usual route is to climb Pinchgut Track first and then descend down Paddy's Track to the Mt Robert Road. The track can be walked either direction though there is far less climbing to do going up Pinchgut Track first.

DOC map at the Mt Robert carpark, Nelson Lakes NP

Map: Mt Robert Circuit, Nelson Lakes NP

Pinchgut Track starts at the DOC information panel at the southern end of the Mt Robert carpark...this is also the start point for Speargrass Track on the Travers-Sabine Circuit. The track starts climbing immediately and it is a steep series of switchbacks gaining over 600 meters of altitude over about two kilometers. To start with you are walking in beech forest on a well maintained leaf covered track.

Start of the Pinchgut Track at Mt Robert carpark

Pinchgut Track is through Beech forest to start...

The gradient of Pinchgut Track is steep...Nelson Lakes NP

There are occasional views out through the forest canopy to Lake Rotoiti, the Mt Robert carpark and the surrounding mountains. It was a blue sky day with only thin wispy cloud so you could see for quite a way...it was probably in the low 20's with little to no wind. A perfect day to be climbing to the tops in Nelson Lakes National Park.

View down to Mt Robert Road from Pinchgut Track

Brunner Peninsula and Lake Rotoiti from Pinchgut Track

View out to the Arthur Range from Mt Robert, Nelson Lakes NP

After 15 minutes you break out into open grasslands as the Pinchgut Track follows the edge of the bushline up to Mt Robert itself. You can see the track ahead running along the bush edge and I could see a number of other trampers ahead of me who were also climbing the track. 

Looking up Pinchgut Track to Mt Robert

Deep ravine to the east of Pinchgut Track, Mt Robert

Pinchgut Track follows the bush edge up Mt Robert

Pinchgut Track is a series of switchbacks for just over one hour...

The views just keep getting better the higher you climb and eventually you can see all the surrounding mountain ranges. Lake Rotoiti and the Brunner Peninsula are laid out before you like some giant 3-D diagram and the sun shining on West Bay enhanced the whole vista. You continue to climb going into and out of the bush as you make your way ever higher.

Richmond Ranges to rear of St Arnaud from Mt Robert, Nelson Lakes NP

You are into and out of the forest on Pinchgut Track

Halfway to Mt Robert on the Pinchgut Track, Nelson Lakes NP

Distant Nelson Bay is visible from the Pinchgut Track

There is a bench seat in the forest with a great view of Lake Rotoiti about 40 minutes into the climb so I stopped here for a five minute break. Then it was steady climbing along a bush covered track for another 25 minutes as I worked my way up to the tussock line at around 1400 meters. I could hear people coming up the track behind me but they never managed to pass so must have stopped for an extended break somewhere. 

Bench seat in the bush along Pinchgut Track 

There are fall hazards along the Pinchgut Track...stay on the track!!!

The forest thins as you approach the bushline...Pinchgut Track

Jon on the Pinchgut Track, Nelson Lakes NP

I eventually broke out of the top of the bush after climbing for about an hour and ten minutes and found myself in an area of tussock and rocky spires. You climb through this area onto the Robert Ridge which stretches off to the south towards the interior of the park. You climb a couple more switchbacks and find yourself on the western flank of Mt Robert just down from the summit. 

Approaching the bush edge at Pinchgut Track, Nelson Lakes NP

St Arnaud Range with distant Richmond Range, Nelson Lakes NP

Nearing the crest of Mt Robert, Nelson Lakes NP

There is a hut marked on the LINZ topographic maps near the 1400 meter line called Bushedge Hut but it was actually removed a couple of years ago. Instead there is a nice bench seat just down from the summit of Mt Robert with superb views in all directions. To the north you can see as far as the mountains of Abel Tasman NP, to the west are the Matiri and Lyell Ranges, to the east the St Arnaud Range.

The Arthur Ranges from Mt Robert, Nelson Lakes NP

View west to Matiri and Lyell Ranges from Mt Robert

St Arnaud Range lies across Lake Rotoiti...

From Mt Robert you follow a track along Robert Ridge marked with snow-poles as you make your way to Relax Shelter about 300 meters along the ridge. This is easy travel during the warmer months but after a good dump of snow this can be a dangerous place with the potential for deep, slippery snow and cold, windy conditions.

Following the snow poles to Relax Shelter, Nelson Lakes NP

View along the start of Robert Ridge from near Mt Robert

Relax Shelter comes into view...Nelson Lakes NP

 If you are just day walking up here in winter then this is probably the best place to turn around and head back down Pinchgut Track. You are mostly protected from the elements by the beech forest and the views from near Mt Robert are magnificent all on their own. Otherwise head for Relax Shelter and figure out your next step.

At Relax Hut:

I eventually made it to Relax Shelter after about two hours of walking and I was pleased to be able to sit down for a short break. Relax Shelter is an old ski hut built by the Nelson Ski Club back in the days when people skied in the surrounding basin. There are a number of basins and gentle slopes around Mt Robert which would be excellent skiing terrain given enough snow. 

Relax Shelter (1960's), Nelson Lakes NP

Howard Plateau and Muntz Range from Relax Shelter

Relax Shelter is an old ski hut...

The shelter is spartan inside...benches down both sides of the hut with one window for light but it is dry and warm enough so would make good location for a lunch break. There is a toilet and water tank to the rear of the shelter if required. Note: this is one of only two water resupply points on this track...the other is at Bushline Hut. There are none from Relax Shelter to Angelus Hut. 

Interior of the spartan Relax Shelter, Nelson Lakes NP

 I noted the warning poster on the wall about continuing along Robert Ridge to Lake Angelus. From the shelter it is still 5-7 hours of hard tramping to Angelus Hut so this is a natural go-no go point when deciding wither to continue or not. 

Information for those heading to Angelus Hut in Relax Shelter

NSC logo on Relax Shelter, Nelson Lakes NP

After a 10 minute break I gathered my gear and set off for the track junction between the Robert Ridge Route and Paddy's Track. It is 100 meters to the turn off point to Paddy's Track and junction of the track is well sign posted by DOC.

At the Robert Ridge-Paddy's Track Junction, Nelson Lakes NP

Note: if you are continuing to Angelus Hut then you are entering an avalanche zone from this point onwards. While the first section of Robert Ridge is relatively safe the terrain becomes more rugged the further you progress. Do not go beyond this point in winter without all the avalanche gear (shovel/probe/beacon) and the ability to judge your risk. There have been multiple fatalities and injuries on this route so be prepared. Check with DOC St Arnaud before starting ANY trip to Lake Angelus...

MSC video on walking the Robert Ridge Route

Check this video from the MSC for more information...

To Bushline Hut:

From the track junction it is a gradual one kilometer or 30 minute descent down to Bushline Hut along Paddy's Track. You will be following this track for the rest of the tramp and eventually it will deposit you down on the Mt Robert Road just downhill from the carpark. 

Start of Paddy's Track on Robert Ridge, Nelson Lakes NP

Robert Ridge Route...5-7 hours to Lake Angelus!!!

The St Arnaud Range is visible from Paddy's Track

The track is well marked by six foot high snow poles which gives you an idea of the amount of snow you could expect to find up here in the winter. It is an easy track to follow but take care as it is a boggy area and is a bit slippery in places. There are a couple of saddles along the track where you can see down into Lake Rotoiti...stay clear of the edges especially if there is any snow or ice present. 

On Paddy's Track heading to Bushline Hut, Nelson Lakes NP

Nelson Lakes NP: Paddy's Track en-route to NSC Kea Hut

The Nelson Ski Club used to use the basin along the track for skiing...it would have been a good ski field as the slope is easy to moderate but snow fall here is patchy at best and there are winters when there is no snow here at all. They eventually developed the Rainbow Skifield further along the Robert Ridge but even this is no longer in use. 

Mt Robert: this basin has been used for skiing in the past...

Nelson Lakes NP: Lake Rotoiti from Paddy's Track 

Snowpoles head towards the NSC Kea Hut, Nelson Lakes NP

Jon on Paddy's Track, Nelson Lakes NP

There is a point along the track where you can see right up Travers Valley to the confluence with the Arnst River and you can see right along the full length of the St Arnaud Range. Unfortunately Mt Travers and Travers Saddle are around the bend of the river just out of sight. 

View to the head of Travers Valley, Nelson Lakes NP

You are heading for Bushline Hut but on the way you will pass the NSC Kea Hut...another old ski lodge built back in the 1930's. Kea Lodge is beautifully placed in a stand of beech trees and while it is locked it is still used by members of the Mt Robert Snow Sports Club. 

On Paddy's Track close to NSC Kea Hut

I believe it has 12 bunks and a rather cramped living space but it would an excellent place to spend a night. 

First view of the NSC Kea Hut, Nelson Lakes NP

Kea Hut is a historic ski Lodge....

NSC Kea Hut (1934), Nelson Lakes NP

Kea Hut is locked but Bushline Hut is just 200 meters away...

Nice setting for NSC Kea Hut...Nelson Lakes NP

Bushline Hut is 200 meters or five minutes walk from NSC Kea Hut and stands on the far side of an arm of Beech forest at around 1300 meters. It is easy walking through red tussock and beech forest on a well marked and maintained track. 

Descending down to Bushline Hut on Paddy's Track

First View of Bushline Hut (1996), Nelson Lakes NP

I arrived at Bushline Hut after walking for 2.5 hours so it is basically the halfway point for those people who are walking the Mt Robert Circuit. 

Bushline Hut:

This is not my first visit to the Bushline Hut site...I previously visited this track in the early 1990's but there was an older hut on this site. The original Bushline Hut burnt down in 1995 and a new hut was built to replace it. It is a 14 bunk serviced hut with platform bunks, a wood burner with supplied wood, water tanks and a decent amount of living space inside. 

Pallets of firewood at Bushline Hut, Mt Robert

The hut is on the online booking system and must be booked right through the year for any overnight stay. There is usually a Hut Warden here over the summer months.

The iconic toilet view at Bushline Hut...

I was at the hut for about 25 minutes as I ate my lunch and had a discussion with a couple of Indian women who were also walking the Mt Robert Circuit but in the opposite direction. They were new immigrants to New Zealand and were asking questions about tramping, DOC huts, trip ideas and tracks in the area. 

Bushline Hut is a tidy 14 bunker...Nelson Lakes NP

Bushline Hut: interior view of sleeping platforms...

They had just finished the Abel Tasman Coastal Track and were on their way to walk the St James Walkway the next day. I love to see new people getting out and amongst it in the New Zealand backcountry...

Bushline Hut: cooking and dining area...

View of the distant Richmond Range from Bushline Hut

Bushline Hut sits on a small plateau high above Lake Rotoiti and there are some awesome views of the lake from up there. A motor boat was passing along Lake Rotoiti while I was there and it looked like a toy over 800 meters below me. There is also that iconic view from the toilets at Bushline Hut of the St Arnaud Range to the north east and on the other side of the lake. 

DOC sign at Bushline Hut...Nelson Lakes NP

After lunch I filled my empty water bottle and set out down the rest of Paddy's Track heading for the Mt Robert Road. It is two hours from the hut to the carpark and while the track is downhill it is a moderate slope so not too difficult to walk along. 

It is 1.5-2 hours back to the Mt Robert carpark...

Western end of Lake Rotoiti from Bushline Hut, Nelson Lakes NP

It kind of reminded me of that first part of the drop from Hanging Valley Shelter to the bush-line on the Kepler Track...not as many stairs on this one though.

Paddy's Track to Mt Robert carpark:

There are some truly amazing views as you head down Paddy's Track to the road...you are still at 1300 meters near the hut so you can see right out to the horizon. It was gradually getting cloudier as the day progressed as a front was moving in but it was still hot in the sunny ravines with temperatures well into the mid 20's. 

Looking up the Motueka Valley from near Bushline Hut

Pancake Rocks are on the third spur to the left...St Arnuad Range

Last view of Bushline Hut, Nelson Lakes NP

This part of the track is down and along tussock covered ridgelines so make sure you cover up with sun screen and a hat as you are out in it for nearly an hour. The track condition was excellent with soil and larger gravel for a base. I had minor slips here and there but it was generally very nice to walk over. 

The Richmond Range starts just to the north of St Arnuad

West Bay of Lake Rotoiti, Nelson Lakes NP

You can see the track in front of you winding its way down the northern flank of Mt Robert. There are great views down to St Arnaud and Kerr Bay and you can really see the size and shape of Brunner Peninsula at the northern end of Lake Rotoiti. 

Paddy's Track winds down the northern flank of Mt Robert

Looking up the Wairau Valley from Near Pt.1098, Nelson Lakes NP

Approaching Pt. 1098 on Paddy's Track, Nelson Lakes NP

Northern end of Lake Rotoiti, Nelson Lakes NP

Kerr Bay, Lake Rotoiti from Paddys Track

You finally arrive at the forest at the 1000 meter mark and after descending for another 100 meters find yourself back in Manuka with a flattish sidle track to follow. The last two kilometers of the track are mostly flat with only minor 20 meters drops and gains along the way. It is good to be out of the sun after nearly two hours in the open...

Back into the bush along Paddy's Track, Mt Robert

The last hour is through Manuka/Beech Forest...Paddy's Track

Two kilometers from the end of the track you reach a track junction...if you go down you will eventually end up on the last 200 meters of the Lakeside Track. Go this way if you want to walk back into St Arnaud as it save walking down the Mt Robert Road. Go straight ahead if you are going to Mt Robert carpark to stay on an even sidle line to the road. 

I stopped here for a ten minute break and some water...I had been walking for nearly four hours at this point. 

Paddy's Track....only 30 minutes left to walk!!!

Side track to Lakeside Track and Mt Robert Road, Nelson Lakes NP

I think this side of Mt Robert was milled for timber at some time...it is covered in Manuka forest which you usually get after an area was milled and is regenerating. Eventually it will be overtaken by Beech forest and the Manuka will more or less die out. This will also happen in areas where fires have damaged the forest...

On the last kilometer of Paddy's Track, Nelson Lakes NP

Interesting moss growing alongside Paddy's Track

Regenerating Manuka forest along Paddy's Track, Nelson Lakes NP

After 30 minutes you will find yourself at a couple of slip faces which start up near the summit of Mt Robert and fall almost to the lakeside. There are a couple of scree faces to cross separated by a forested spur. There is a stream along here which is usually dry but it can be a problem in heavy rain as it is the main drainage point for this side of Mt Robert. Exercise extreme caution if crossing here in the rain. 

Crossing a scree field along Paddy's Track, Nelson Lakes NP

This stream can be a problem in heavy rain...Paddy's Track

I spotted a number of Tui in the forested spur between the two slip faces...they were sitting in the trees right next to the track and calling out. I managed to capture a photo of one of them from quite close quarters.

Nelson Lakes NP: Manuka/Kanuka along Paddy's Track

A Tui I spotted along Paddy's Track, Nelson Lakes NP

A Tui in the Manuka forest near the Mt Robert Road

You pass over the second of the slip faces about 10 minutes from the end of Paddy's Track. From the open rocky area you can look up to the hillside you climbed while walking the Pinchgut Track earlier in the day. You just have one last small spur to sidle around and you are back on the Mt Robert road. 

Nelson Lakes NP: looking to Pinchgut Track from Paddy's Track

The last spur to cross on Paddy's Track, Nelson Lakes NP

Last view of Lake Rotoiti from Paddy's Track

I finally got to the end of Paddy's Track about two hours after leaving Bushline Hut...around 2 pm in the afternoon. The last section of the track was through an area of mature Red Beech trees just off the side of the road. This whole area was alive with birdsong mostly Bellbirds but also Tui, Fantails and what sounded like a Kaka or two...

The end of Paddy's Track on the Mt Robert Road

Mt Robert Road from Paddy's Track, Nelson Lakes NP

At the end of Paddy's Track, Nelson Lakes NP

Paddy's Track ends approximately 500 meters away from the Mt Robert carpark and 100 meters lower down the hillside. There is an overflow carpark here for use if the main carpark is full. You just start walking back up the Mt Robert Road towards the start of the tarck...it takes about 5 minutes to walk back to the DOC shelter.

Mt Robert Road climbs 100 meters to the carpark...

Overflow carpark on Mt Robert Road, Nelson Lakes NP

This was my second walk around the Bushline Circuit and I must say I enjoyed it even though it was hard work in places. It is a lovely 4-5 hour round trip and has excellent views along much of its length. I would love to come back up here some time in the future and stay overnight at Bushline Hut.

The last Beech tree lined rise on the Mt Robert Road...

 I might look at adding a Bushline Hut overnighter to my tramping plan for the 2021/2022 season which I've started working on. As a trip on its own, an overnighter or as part of the route to Lake Angelus this is a trip that should be on every trampers to do list. 

Access: The Mt Robert Circuit can be accessed from the Mt Robert carpark above Lake Rotoiti. Turn off SH 6 approximately one kilometer before St Arnaud and follow the narrow gravel road to the top. Track Times: It is approximately six kilometers (3-4 hours) around the Mt Robert Circuit first on Pinchgut Track and then on Paddy's Track. The circuit starts and finishes at the Mt Robert Carpark. 

Hut details: Relax Shelter (Shelter, water tank, toilet), NSC Kea Hut (Private locked hut), Bushline Hut (Serviced, 14 bunks, water tank, wood burner, wood shed, toilets).

Miscellaneous: This is a high alpine environment at times above 1300 meters asl. Be prepared for all conditions. Some avalanche risk on Paddy's Track over the winter if snow on Mt Robert...check with DOC St Arnaud before attempting this track in winter. Bushline Hut must be booked all year for overnight stay. Stay on the marked track as there are fall hazards along both tracks. Mt Robert carpark is often targeted by vandals/thieves so lock away all valuables.