Banks Peninsula, Packhorse Hut Day Trip: 6th November 2021

 On my annual trip to Packhorse Hut...

I recently went for my semi annual visit to Packhorse Hut this time from the Kaituna Valley. I have not been up to the hut for two years now and with a bad weather forecast for the mountains I decided it was time for a trip there. This was my 14th visit to Packhorse Hut over the last 25 odd years and it is one of my favorite spots to visit.

DOC sign at the start of the Packhorse Hut Track

It was super busy at the Kaituna Valley start of the Packhorse Hut Track...there were at least 15 cars parked along the road side. I set off the same time as a large group from the CTC as I recognised a number of the trampers from photos and vlogs I have seen. 

The Silver Surfer parked in Kaituna Valley

Packhorse Hut track starts off crossing farmland before following an old 4 W/D track most of the way up to the hut. It is an easy track but it is bloody steep as well so be prepared for a good workout for the legs and lungs. It was very busy so I had groups of people and individuals around me for the whole way up to the hut and on my return. 

Starting out over farmland, Packhorse Hut Track

It is a great wee walk up to the Packhorse Hut and I always enjoy my visits there...I will have to look at arranging an overnight stay some time in the near future. 

Heading to Packhorse Hut...

It is only 4.2 kilometers from the start of the Packhorse Hut Track to the hut but it still takes over two hours to cover the distance. The reason is the steepness of the track...the first kilometer is flat but after that it is up hill all the way to the hut. Some parts are very steep which really slows you down.

On the old farm track at the start of the Packhorse Hut Track

The Eucalypt forest has been cut down...

After walking over the farmland you are following an old 4 W/D track practically to the hut door. It is generally easy walking and very well marked so people don't stray off the track. This is all private land so it is important to follow the markers to keep the farmer on side and maintain access across the land...

Just past the old Eucalypt forest...

Most of the time this is an all weather track but do be aware that there are four crossings of a small river which runs down the ridge side. In very heavy rain the small trickle can turn to a raging beast of a river which can be dangerous. I have seen photos of the river in flood and it would easily be more than waist deep on 6'3" Jon....

Packhorse Hut Track: river crossing #1

...Packhorse Track...river crossing #2...

...and river crossing #3 on the Packhorse Hut Track

Ongaonga is endemic to Banks Peninsula and there is a lot of it along the route to Packhorse Hut. Ongaonga has a neuro toxin in the small spines on the plant which leads to intense pain if you brush up against it. You should be aware of what Ongaonga looks like and do your best to stay away from it. I once got slapped on the calve by Ongaonga and the pain is not one I would wish on my worst enemy...

Ongaonga next to the Packhorse Hut Track

Past the third river crossing the gradient of the track gets much steeper...it is moderately hard work but you just take your time and grind away at it. You start to get some views up towards Kaituna Saddle and Pt.570 to the south of the hut about half way up...

Start of the climb up to Kaituna Saddle, Packhorse Hut Track

Pt. 570 from the mid regions of Packhorse Hut Track

Waking through the Manuka forest, Packhorse Hut Track

I saw this enormously fat and succulent looking Wood Pigeon sitting on a tree branch....there are a lot of native birds in the Kaituna Valley due to the many small native forest reserves. I have also seen Tui, Bellbirds, Fantails, Kahu and native Geese when I have been here. 

A very plump Woodpigeon next toi the Packhorse Hut Track

There is a track junction just before the top most river crossing...make sure you take the left hand track as this is the one to the hut. The other track is over private farmland to the base of Mt Bradley but is not for general use by the public.

Track junction near the last river crossing, Packhorse Hut Track

...Packhorse Hut is too the left at the track junction!

There is another river crossing near here...this is the last of the crossings on this track. 

The top most river crossing, Packhorse Hut Track

Past that last river crossing the track gets very steep and consists of exposed clay substrate...it is hard and dusty when dry and slick and dangerously slippery when wet. The next 500 meters of the track are the steepest section and requires a bit of care especially when descending. 

Starting the steeper climb on the clay track...

You start to get better views of Mt Bradley from here to the hut...Mt Bradley is the third highest spot on Banks Peninsula and the views from the top are spectacular especially to the south past Lake Ellesmere. The last time I was up there on a clear day you could see all the way down to Oamaru nearly 250 kilometers south of Christchurch...

Good view of Mt Bradley from the Packhorse Hut Track

Below is the steepest part of the Packhorse Hut Track...I have fallen over a number of times in the past along here on that stupid clay surface. If it is raining I recommend you walk along the fence line as it gives you something to hold onto as you descend!

The steepest section of Packhorse Hut Track starts with grass...

...and turns into hard packed clay...

Past the clay the track levels out quite a bit and you are out in the open as this is the edge of the permanent bush except for a couple of small reserves you pass through. You will need a sun hat and sun screen on this track as you are exposed to the full glare of the sun from here to the hut and back. 

The Packhorse Hut Track levels out above the clay track

View of the Remarkable Dykes from the Packhorse Hut Track

There are some stonking views back down the Kaituna Valley and you can see right out to Lake Ellesmere, Birdlings Flat and the Southern Ocean. It was very green and verdant when I visited as we have had a bit of rain recently...

View back down to the Kaituna Valley...

Bush to the rear of Pt. 570, Kaituna Valley

Parkinson's Bush on the south face of Mt Bradley

First view of Kaituna Saddle...the hut is in the middle

You can just see Packhorse Hut from here...

Parkinson's Bush Reserve runs down the south eastern flank of Mt Bradley and is a QEII covenanted area of native bush. I reaches from just off the summit to almost the forest floor in a gully on this side of the mountain. There are some big Kahikatea, Totora, Matai and other trees typical of the forest species you would have seen here before European settlement. 

Parkinson's Bush, Mt Bradley

The whole of Mt Bradley was recently purchased by a nature consortium and is going to be turned into a new recreation park. They have plans to plant native trees right down to near the Packhorse Hut so the whole mountain will be covered in native forest in 50-100 years time. This will be a return to the state the mountain was in prior to European settlement in the 1840's. 

I wish I could be here to see that...but alas!!!

Packhorse Hut Track...500 meters from the hut!!!

The side stream here was dry on the day, Packhorse Hut Track

Eventually you get your first sight of the brick red roof of the Packhorse Hut on the flat ground between Mt Bradley and Pt. 570. This is Kaituna Saddle and was once a route used by people on the Peninsula to get from the Kaituna Valley to Lyttleton. It saved the long journey around the Port Hills and Banks Peninsula in pre motorized days... 

First good view of Packhorse Hut on Kaituna Saddle

Birdlings Flat and Lake Ellesmere at the end of Kaituna Valley

Mt Bradley dominates the surrounds up here and it is possible to climb to the summit from this side. The usual route is to head towards the Mt Herbert Shelter and follow a side track up the right hand edge of the south face. There is a natural grassy gully near the top which negates any climbing or rock scrabbling. 

You can climb Mt Bradley from the south face...

Kaituna Saddle on Banks Peninsula

I eventually arrived at Packhorse Hut after just over two hours of walking....it is always great to make it to the hut. Even though I had seen many people on the way to the hut when I actually got there there was just myself and a couple of guys who had been walking just in front of me. 

Packhorse Hut, Banks Peninsula

It was great to be back at the Packhorse Hut as this is my most visited and one of my favorite backcountry huts in New Zealand. 

At Packhorse Hut:

As mentioned this was my 14th visit to Packhorse Hut over the last 25 odd years...the last time I was up here was two years ago when I was acting as the volunteer hut warden with my daughter Georgia. We spent two weeks in 2018/2019 doing that role but it is now a full time DOC position over the summer months. I can recommend volunteering to be a hut warden...it is a lot of fun and a way to give back to the community...

Pt. 570 backs Packhorse Hut from this location

There are a number of tracks from Packhorse Hut...the route I followed from Kaituna Valley, the track down to Gebbies Pass and the track to Orton Bradley Estate along the north face of Mt Bradley. If you follow the track around the south face of Mt Bradley you will find yourself at Mt Herbert Shelter and the track to the top of Mt Herbert and Little Mt Herbert (Pt. 913).

Waypoint for the Kiwi Guardian scheme on Kaituna Saddle...

Tracks to Gebbies Pass and Orton Bradley start near here...

There are some stunning views from Kaituna Saddle of the Kaituna Valley, south to Gebbies Pass and the Canterbury Plains and east and north to Lyttleton and the Port Hills. 

Gebbies Pass from Kaituna Saddle, Banks Peninsula

Lyttleton and the Port Hills from Kaituna Saddle

You can see down to McQueens Forest where the track from Gebbies Pass winds through the trees. At night the lights of Lyttleton, Christchurch and the Canterbury Plains are very evident...

Head of the Bay and the Port Hills from Kaituna Saddle

Looking down on McQueens Forest and Gebbies Pass

Packhorse Hut from the Gebbies Pass Track..

I went into the hut and had some lunch...the views up here are nice but the wind does blow over the saddle with a bit of force and it is cold outside. There were just the three of us in the hut...myself and the two dudes who were just ahead of me walking up the track. I'm pleased to see the hut maintenance is continuing..it looked to be recently painted and there is a new wood burner installed. 

Entrance to Packhorse Hut....

There is a profusion of Covid 19 messaging in the hut...we are still at Covid Level 2 here so there are a few limitations as to behavior. You are supposed to wear a mask and scan into every building you enter to allow contact tracing...

Interior of Packhorse Hut: the living area

Packhorse Hut is the child of  Harry Ells vision of a continuous walking track from Christchurch to Akaroa. The hut was intended as and served as an overnight accommodation point with beds and meals provided by in house staff. 

The Depression and then WW II interfered with development and the full track was never finished. They did build some of the huts though with Sign of the Takahe, Sign of the Bellbird, Sign of the Kiwi and Packhorse Hut all being a part of the network. 

Interior of Packhorse Hut: history of the Harry Ell track network

As always I had a peruse of the hut intentions book to see who had come calling....I spotted some familiar names in the book which I strike at numerous Canterbury huts I visit. 

The Packhorse Hut intentions book...

Packhorse Hut has nine bunks which must be booked on the hut booking system before you arrive. The hut is usually full every weekend so you really have to check before setting out as there is no space for random visitors. It is an excellent first tramp or overnight destination for newbie trampers, solo walkers, fit older folk and family groups. 

Interior of Packhorse Hut: the bunkroom

Interior of Packhorse Hut: view from the bunkroom to rear of hut

I have stayed here overnight three times with the last when I was walking the Te Ara Pataka track back in 2017. I was meant to be here in April 2020 but I only got as far as Rod Donald Hut before I had to bail out and head for home. Bad weather over Mt Herbert made it imprudent to continue so I walked down to Little River and Karen came to collect me (because she is lovely).....

Interior of Packhorse Hut: a Covid sign in the hut

Interior of Packhorse Hut: the new Morison firebox...

If you are staying the night I recommend a walk to the crest of Pt.570 just to the south of the hut. There are awesome views down to McQueens Forest and Gebbies Pass from there. Alternately go for a stroll up Mt Bradley and check out the awesome views from the top...take emergency gear with you and warm clothing as it is a much more difficult proposition.

There is a picnic table at Packhorse Hut

Exterior of Packhorse Hut: the rear of the hut

Exterior of Packhorse Hut: the northern end of the hut

Packhorse Hut toilet...well tied down!!!

Please note that there is filtered water and a toilet at the hut...the water tanks are around the back of the hut with two big tanks located there. The toilet at Packhorse Hut has been blown over 3-4 times now which gives you an idea of how strong the local wind is. It is now uber bolted to the ground with several cable tiedowns to hold it in place...

Farewell Packhorse Hut...see you again soon!!!

It was nice to visit this old friend and I commented to Karen that we need to arrange an overnight stay at the hut some time...

Heading for home...

I spent about 30 minutes up at the hut before packing my gears and heading back down to the valley floor. On the way I did a side trip to check out Packhorse Bivouac just down from the main hut in Parkinson's Bush. 

Parkinson's Bush and the greater Kaituna Valley

Packhorse Bivouac acts as hut warden accommodation for people managing the main Packhorse Hut. This is were Georgia and I stayed back in 2018/2019. It still looks much the same and I note they have now installed a metal cooking bench and sink outside the hut with water piped from their own water tank. There are also a set of solar panels on the roof probably for charging the RT radios and iPad they provide to the wardens. 

Crossing the fence to visit the Packhorse Bivouac

Packhorse Bivouac, Parkinson's Bush, Banks Peninsula

After my whistle tour visit I climbed back up to the main track and headed down the hill to the car. That is one of the advantages to this trip...it is all downhill once you make it to the hut. It normally takes me about 1.5 hours to get back to the car but today it was a little slower as I was filming for the YouTube channel on the way back...

Heading back up to the Packhorse Hut Track...

Back on the Packhorse Hut Track to the valley floor

Parkinson's Bush to left of the Packhorse Hut Track

The sun came out as the day progressed so it was a bit warm heading back down to the carpark in the Kaituna Valley. I put my hat on and kept it on shortly after taking this photo...I was getting burnt!!!

Jon on the Packhorse Hut Track

I continued on down the track enjoying the views of the Kaituna Valley and surrounding ridges. At one point there is a distant view to Mt Fitzgerald one of the five highest points on Banks Peninsula. Te Ara Pataka sidles the mountain and then goes up and over the top of it...

It got sunnier as the day progressed...Packhorse Hut Track

Kaituna Scenic Reserve is visible in the valley....

Mt Fitzgerald to the rear of Kaituna Spur...

I was happy to head back into the protection of the tree line as that sun was really roasting me...

Packhorse Hut Track...back at the permanent bush-line

I must reiterate just how treacherous that clay track is...go slow and take your time walking down over it as it is quite dangerous. As I said before in extremis walk along the fence line and use it to keep yourself standing...

Care is needed descending the clay on the Packhorse Hut Track

It was busy on the Packhorse Hut Track that day...

Once back on the grass it is fine to walk along the center of the track as the grass gives you more traction than the clay. 

On the grass below the clay track, Packhorse Hut Track

I soon found myself back at the top river crossing and on the flatter track...you can make fast progress from here as the gradient is less steep and easier to negotiate.

The top river crossing on the Packhorse Hut Track

Back on the old farm track...Packhorse Hut Track

Third river crossing...Packhorse Hut Track

It was cool and shady in the forest...

The mid sections of this track are covered with Ongaonga especially around those streams so watch out when you are crossing. I saw one of the people ahead of me walk through it as if it was nothing...I bet they wondered why their leg was hurting later...

More Ongaonga along the Packhorse Hut Track

Once back at the bottom river crossing it is flat ground again and from here you will mostly be walking across farmland so once again stay to the marked track at all times...

Bottom river crossing...Packhorse Hut Track

We head right off the farmers track...onto the marked track!!

Crossing farmland along the Packhorse Hut Track

Before I knew it I was cresting that last hill down by the road and less than 400 meters from the end of the track. I had really enjoyed walking this track once again and found it to be much the same as the last 5-6 times I had covered it. 

Last small hill at the end of the Packhorse Hut Track

Back at the start of the Packhorse Hut Track

A lot of the cars were gone by the time I got back to the Silver Surfer as people finished the track and drove off. That said two new cars pulled up as I was packing my gear in the car and the occupants started along the walk. 

Late starts are possible on this track as it only take 3-4 hours to complete so even if you start at 4 pm in the summer you can still walk it in daylight...I will come do that over the summer to show you.

The Silver Surfer awaits at Kaituna Valley

It was busy in the Kaituna Valley on the day...

Walking up to the Packhorse Hut is a fun days outing and should be on the too do list of every respectable Canterbury tramper. It is steep in parts but remember the first quarter is flat and you will be walking down hill all the way back to the car once you reach the saddle. 

Access: Track starts at the Parkinson's Road carpark, off Kaituna Valley Road.

Track Times:  2-2.5 hours Kaituna Valley to Packhorse Hut, 2.5-3.5 hours Gebbies Pass to Packhorse Hut also able to access from Mt Herbert Shelter

Hut Details: Packhorse Hut: Serviced, 9 bunks, wood burner, water tank, woodshed, toilets, cell coverage in front of the hut: Packhorse Bivouac: DOC use only, 1 bunk, water tank, gas heater, toilet at main hut.

Miscellaneous: Packhorse Hut is on the DOC Hut booking system, must be booked for an overnight visit before you arrive.