My shortest ever walking day on a Great Walk!!!
Day two was another short one with only 2.5 kilometers to cover over 1 to 1.5 hours. All of it is uphill of course which is why it takes that long to cover the distance. In the event I was safely ensconced in Routeburn Falls Hut by 10.00 in the morning which takes the record for the shortest day I have ever spent on a Great Walk track.
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| Routeburn Falls as seen from Routeburn Flats |
You gain 400 meters of elevation over the 2.5 kilometers of track which gives you an idea of how steep it was...it is a case of head down and plod, plod, plod!!!
When I arrived at Routeburn Falls there were still people there from the previous night who were waiting for the rain to stop before setting out to Harris Saddle. Some of them didn't leave until after 1 pm in the afternoon.
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| Map: Routeburn Track |
The early arrival at the hut meant I had time to do some admin work, go for a small side trip to look at the Routeburn Falls and have a sleep in the afternoon.
On my way to Routeburn Falls:
The new day started out cloudy but fine and slowly turned to custard over the next couple of hours. By the time I arrived at Routeburn Falls it was raining quite heavily but I had plenty of time to dry out as it was such a short day on the track.
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| Day two dawns at Routeburn Flats North Branch |
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| Getting ready to leave Routeburn Flats Hut |
After a quick breakfast and tidy of the hut I was out the door and on my way by 8.20 in the morning. I was only going as far as Routeburn Falls Hut which meant I had only 1.5 hours of walking to do that day. I set off back down to the track junction with the main Routeburn Track as quickly as I was able...
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| Back on the side track to the main Routeburn Track |
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| Routeburn Track and Routeburn Flats Track junction |
From the junction with the main Routeburn Track it is a solid climb up to Routeburn Falls. The track starts off steeply with a series of switchbacks climbing up the side of the surrounding mountains. Once you get up past the 1994 Slip (see below) it evens out for a distance before reverting to steep terrain over the last 500 meters to the hut site.
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| It is 1-1.5 hours to Routeburn Falls from the junction |
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| Starting the climb up to Routeburn Falls Hut |
Basically you just have to stick your head down and plod up the slope step by step. The track is a bit rougher than the previous day but it is still well maintained and easy to follow.
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| The track is steep and rocky climbing to Routeburn Falls |
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| The beech forest comes in close on the way to Routeburn Falls |
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| A rocky section enroute to Routeburn Falls |
Every now and then there are gaps in the forest canopy which give views out to Routeburn Flats, Mt Xenicus, the Humboldt Mountains and down towards the Routeburn Gorge. In clear sunny weather you are going to get some stunning photos from this track section so keep the camera handy...
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| Mt Xenicus (1912) from the Routeburn Track |
You pass over four bridges on this section of the track and they are good waypoints to navigate your position along a topo map. If you are running short of water it can be taken from any of the streams running down over the track but make sure to treat it first just to be on the safe side.
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| First bridge enroute to Routeburn Falls |
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| The track slowly winds up to Routeburn Falls |
It started to lightly rain just after I passed the first bridge but you are covered enough by the forest to make wearing a jacket unnecessary. As you gain altitude the track is more open to the elements with some larger clearings and thinner forest canopy. This is where you will probably have to wear a jacket in wet or windy weather.
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| Another view down to Routeburn Flats from the track |
Emily Creek Bridge is the half way point between Routeburn Flats and Routeburn Falls and it is a good spot to stop for a break. It took me about 45 minutes to get to Emily Creek from the start so I was making good progress to finish the track section in the stated DOC track time.
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| Emily Creek is half way between Routeburn Flats and Routeburn Falls |
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| Crossing Emily Creek on the way to Routeburn Falls |
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| Emily Creek, Mt Aspiring NP |
There are a set of stepping stones down to Emily Creek if you want a closer look or need water but take a bit of care on any wet, slippery rocks. You could see down to the North Branch of Routeburn Flats from here although the thickening cloud was starting to blur your view.
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| Looking down Emily Creek from the Routeburn Track |
There are two bridges near Emily Creek and the second has an excellent opening in the canopy for photography. You could see down to Routeburn Flats and across to the Humboldt Mountains.
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| Only1-5 people at a time on this bridge or.... |
I love those slightly crazy DOC signs they put on the bridges...pictures of falling trampers to illustrate their point about too many on the structure. I have noticed people are starting to graffiti these signs with pictures of other things falling off the bridge like robots, snakes, snails, bears, Drop Bears etc. etc.
DOC have become very cautious over the years after a few instances of platforms and bridges collapsing..they seem a bit paranoid about it if I'm being honest.
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| ....EEEEEEIIIIIIIIII!!!!!... |
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| The second of the bridges at Emily Creek, Routeburn Track |
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| Routeburn Flats North Branch from the Routeburn Track |
There are a couple of slip faces on this section of the Routeburn Track so just pay attention to the warning signs and spend as little time in the slip zone as possible. Don't stop to take photos or you are likely to get smacked up side the head with a big chonk of rock....
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| Active slip face just past Emily Creek, Routeburn Track |
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| ...no stopping under the slip... |
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| The rain rolls in over Routeburn Flats |
From Emily Creek the track evens out a bit...it is still climbing but not at such a steep gradient. This continues for about half a kilometer past the 1994 Slip face....
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| Approaching the 1994 Slip Face, Routeburn Track |
Back in 1994 a huge chunk of Pt. 1919 slipped off the mountain and down into the Routeburn North Branch during a massive storm. The area is still largely desolate and remains a problem in heavy rain. There is a 300 meter no stopping zone right across the slip so when you get there make your way quickly but safely to the other side.
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| Start of the 1994 Slip enroute to Routeburn Falls |
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| The slip comes down off Pt. 1919...Routeburn Track |
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| Claggy rain rolls in over the Humboldt Range |
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| Routeburn Gorge at the end of Routeburn Flats |
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| Still devastated after 28 years...1994 Slip, Routeburn Track |
It takes 20 minutes to walk from the 1994 Slip to Routeburn Falls Hut...to start you are still in the same open forest and I had to stop here to don my jacket as it was raining quite hard. You continue up the hill on your way to the hut and need more micro breaks as the gradient increases.
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| Mist and rain roll over the Routeburn Track |
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| Rest spot just above the 1994 Slip on the Routeburn Track |
Eventually you will reach a section of rocky track with a guard rail and some steps. It is only 300 meters from here to the huts so you are nearly at the end of your days walk.
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| Steps just below the Routeburn Falls Hut site |
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| Routeburn Lodge appears through the trees |
The first building you will see is Routeburn Lodge on the uphill side of the track...this is the accommodation for the guided walkers. Right across from the lodge is Routeburn Falls Hut where you will be spending the night.
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| Better view of the Routeburn Lodge at Routeburn Falls |
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| First view of Routeburn Falls Hut |
I arrived at Routeburn Falls Hut just before 10 am so it had taken me about 1 hour and 20 minutes to walk up from Routeburn Flats. I was glad to arrive because just as I walked up the path to the hut the heavens opened and it started to absolutely pour with rain.
I just made it to the hut before the deluge....it rained solidly for the next two hours!!!
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| Routeburn Falls Hut, Mt Aspiring NP |
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| Heavy rain sets in at Routeburn Falls Hut as I arrive |
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| Uphill side of Routeburn Falls Hut...veranda |
Directly opposite the entrance to Routeburn Falls Hut is the path you will be following the next morning as you walk to Lake MacKenzie. This is also the way to head if you want to go visit Routeburn Falls or the Harris Basin.
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| Track heading up to the Harris Basin, Routeburn Track |
The views from Routeburn Falls Hut are limited by the surrounding forest but you have an excellent view of Mt Xenicus and the Humboldt Mountains off in the distance. The trees were full of native birds and I saw Kaka, Kea, South Island Robins, Fantails, Tomtits and Riflemen right from the veranda.
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| Eastern flank of Mt Xenicus from Routeburn Falls Hut |
I changed into some dry cloths, set up my gear in one of the bunkrooms and sorted out a position on one of the tables in the living area. I was ready for a day of relaxing and recreating...
At Routeburn Falls Hut:
Routeburn Falls Hut is less than 10 years old so it is still in prime condition. It is an interesting design dictated I think by the small land foot print it is sitting on. It has two dormitory style bunkrooms with bunks and a large communal living area that is spread over two levels. It was a warm and comfortable place to spend some time.
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| Routeburn Falls Hut: the cooking area... |
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| Cooking benches at Routeburn Falls Hut |
There are a lot of bunks crammed into that small bunkroom space and it was a bit dark but it is an excellent solution to where to stack everyone at night. You have just enough privacy to make it bearable and I really like the storage space each bunk has at its foot for packs, clothing and equipment etc.
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| Routeburn Falls Hut: one of the bunkrooms... |
There is plenty of space in the living area for the 50 odd people the hut is meant to hold. There are eight tables on the lower level and a long stainless steel bench on the upper level. The space did not seem crowded even at dinner time but then we did have less than 40 people staying that night.
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| Routeburn Falls Hut: living space... |
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| Routeburn Falls Hut: living space... |
There is a banner hanging on the walls of the living area with greetings written by people from all around the world. It was interesting to read the comments and note all the different languages used on the banners.
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| Historic mural hanging in Routeburn Falls Hut |
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| Information board inside Routeburn Falls Hut |
I spent a couple of hours before lunch sitting in the living area reading an 2020 edition of TROG (the CUTC journal), drinking tea and looking at the rain outside. It rained solidly till just past 1 pm and then the weather cleared up for much of the afternoon. The rain came back in the evening and continued on till the early morning of day three....standard fare for these parts.
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| Jon's reading materials on Day 1+2 of the Routeburn |
Just after lunch I had an interesting conversation with a Te Araroa Trail walker who stopped off at the hut. He was tramping the Routeburn after walking up the Greenstone Valley and past Lake MacKenzie. Lots of TA trekkers are doing that now...customizing their route to take in interesting and or scenic tracks just off the standard TA route.
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| View down the Routeburn Valley from Routeburn Falls Hut |
He was walking NOBO and was on day 12 of a three month walk of the South Island. I told him to watch the Taramakau River and Waiau Pass that he will be arriving at in late May. It was interesting to catch up with another TA trekker and exchange notes on gear, trail conditions and the such.
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| Day two lunch was soup with crackers, cheese and tuna |
BTW: there is a very nice sunny spot on the Routeburn Lodge side of the hut in the afternoon. The entrance way and veranda on that side had beautiful sun streaming down on it for most of the afternoon and I spent nearly 45 minutes there reading and soaking up the sun. Have a look if you are there in the afternoon on a fine day.
Side trip to Routeburn Falls:
After lunch and when the rain stopped I took off for a small side trip to the Routeburn Falls. The cascades of the Falls are about 200 meters up the hill behind the hut and follows sections of the track you walk on day three. You climb past the Routeburn Lodge to a series of rocks overlooking the lower section of the cascades.
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| Routeburn Falls Hut from the track above the hut |
It is worth going for the small side trip if you are expecting bad weather on the third day...when it was raining most of the Routeburn Falls area was completely cover by thick cloud coming down out of the Harris Basin.
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| Top cascade of Routeburn Falls |
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| Lower cascade of Routeburn Falls |
Take extreme care when you are walking around near the edge of the Falls...there are no safety barriers here and many big fall hazards. If you slip and fall off the rocks you are going home in a helicopter. Stay back from the edges and keep an eye on slippery rocks as there is a bit of mist blowing off the waterfalls.
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| The middle cascade of Routeburn Falls |
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| The pools around the middle cascade of Routeburn Falls |
On the way down I stopped for the obligatory shot down into Routeburn Flats you see in every photo set of the Routeburn Track. There are a couple of prime spots where you are going to get some memorable photos.
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| Routeburn Lodge from near the Routeburn Falls |
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| Routeburn Lodge is run by Ultimate Hikes |
You can see down and into Routeburn Lodge from around the Falls and oh boy are they some fine looking digs. Even from the limited views of the building you can see it is a huge step up from the DOC Huts. The Lodges here and at Lake MacKenzie are well maintained, and look warm, comfortable and well set up.
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| One of the suites in Routeburn Lodge...your $2400 option!!! |
If you had the money it would be a decent way to walk this track. Prices range from $1600 NZ Dollars up to $2400 NZD but everything is included; accommodation, meals, showers, beds, drinks, transport, even gear if you don't own a suitable pack or jacket. I would think about it if someone wanted to come walk the track again...
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| Fancy looking digs at Routeburn Lodge |
There were patches of Dracophyllum plants around the huts and along the track side...they looked lovely if slightly weird growing atop the rocks. This is obviously the right terrain for them as I saw examples from here right through to Lake MacKenzie the next day...
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| Dracophyllum near the Routeburn Falls |
I had a sleep in the afternoon which was nice and by the time I got up again most of the people staying in the hut that night had arrived.
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| Routeburn Flats from a knob above Routeburn Lodge |
I had another lovely evening in the hut catching up with a family I walked the Paparoa Track with back in 2020. They were walking the opposite direction and we caught up on what we had all been doing since then. They had completed the Milford and Rakuira track in the meantime and it was nice to see them after all this time. We had a awesome group of people walking that track...we all clicked with each other.
Shared misery will do that...
Access: The Routeburn Track can be walked in both direction with the majority of trampers walking from East to West. From Queenstown I took the shuttle to the Routeburn Shelter stopping at Glenorchy on the way. We then followed the access road for about 30 kilometers to the carpark at Routeburn Shelter. The track starts from the bridge over the Routeburn.
Track Times: Routeburn Flats Hut to Routeburn Falls Hut is 2.5 kilometers or 1-1.5 hours walking time.
Hut Details: Routeburn Flats Hut: Great Walk, 20 bunks, wood burner, water tanks, wood shed, toilets: Routeburn Campsite: Great Walk, 15 sites, cooking shelter, water, compostable toilets: Routeburn Falls Hut: Great Walk, 50 bunks, woodburner, water tanks, woodshed, flush toilets: Routeburn Falls Lodge: Private Lodge run by Ultimate Hikes for guided walkers
Miscellaneous: All Great Walk huts/campsites are on the DOC Hut booking system, must be booked for overnight visit. Hut Warden present over summer season. Easy track but some uphill sections especially along the Routeburn Gorge. The access road to Routeburn Shelter is gravel and can be difficult to use in winter due to deep snow.
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