Routeburn Track: Day 4, Lake MacKenzie to the Divide Shelter, 3rd March 2022

 Finishing off the Great Walks in style...

The fourth and last day of my tramp on the Routeburn Track was the section from Lake MacKenzie to the Divide Shelter and the end of the track. After a fair evening at Lake MacKenzie Hut I was up early and getting ready to head along the track.

Farewell to Lake MacKenzie Hut

For once I wasn't the first person out of the hut...several people left before me heading east towards Harris Saddle. They had a long, hard walk ahead of them. I was the first person heading to the Divide and after a quick breakfast and pack of my gear I was out of the hut door and walking by 7.45 am.

Back on the main Routeburn Track route

To start with you are walking across flat ground down past the Ultimate Hikes Lodge and through a section of typical Fiordland beech forest. It was slightly chilly in the morning but the blue skies over head promised a lovely sunny day. 

Map: the Routeburn Track

The Lake MacKenzie Lodge is about 100 meters along the track from the DOC hut and sits on a slight rise over looking an overflow basin for Lake MacKenzie. 

Side track to Ultimate Hikes Lake MacKenzie Lodge

Jon at the junction with the Lake MacKenzie Lodge track

There was the thinnest of mist clinging to the folds of ground around the Lodge but this soon dissipated as I reentered the forest. The hut warden had told us the previous night that the basin in front of the Lodge filled with water whenever the lake was at a high level. Sometimes you have to wade through waist deep water to get along the track here.

Morning mist over the back basin of Lake MacKenzie

Lake MacKenzie Lodge, Firodland NP

The lodge had all lights blazing as I walked by and I could smell the tantalizing scent of cooking bacon, hash browns and eggs as I walked past. I could see how going the guided route might be a nice way of experiencing these tracks for those with the cash....

Looking back towards Lake MacKenzie Lodge

Past the Ultimate Hikes Lodge it was back into the forest for the next hour as you first head along flat track and then start the climb up to the edge of the bush on the flanks of the Ailsa Mountains. The track is rocky and covered with roots but it is far better than the last hour coming from Routeburn Falls. 

Start of the climb to the Orchard on Routeburn Track

Footbridge over Roaring Creek, Routeburn Track

Routeburn Track...it was still dark in the forest

This area got slammed by a big storm last year so there were a few downed trees along the way and several large slip faces to navigate. Some of these tracks down here in Fiordland are going to become untenable with ongoing climate change as the rainfall is vast and the slopes too steep. Erosion is simply taking the sides of mountains away....

Fallen trees over the Routeburn Track

Slip face with view down to Hollyford Valley

You steadily climb and gain about 300 meters of altitude before the forest begins to thin and you find yourself approaching the bushline. 

On the Routeburn Track between Roaring Stream and The Orchard

The Routeburn Track was rocky and full of roots

Approaching the bushline near Pt. 1620, Routeburn Track

Beneath Pt. 1620 you will find yourself in tussock fields up above the bushline. You pop in and out of the bush for the next kilometer as you walk to the Orchard. The sun was rising along the Darran Range directly across the Hollyford Valley. It filled the whole area with a lovely golden glow.

Breaking out of the bush under Pt.1620,  Routeburn Track

Pt.1494 looms over the Routeburn Track

With the open space you have some awesome views across the Hollyford Valley and down to the West Coast. You can also see right along the Ailsa Range which towers high above the track...

View west to the coast at Martins Bay,  Routeburn Track

Lake McKerrow from the  Routeburn Track

Sunlight filters into the Hollyford Valley

You will reach the Orchard about two hours into the day and this marks a good place to stop for a rest break. The Orchard is an old farm site with fruit trees planted around a clearing with a medium sized tarn. They cleared the forest and tried to farm here but were soon defeated by the rugged terrain and remote location. 

Arriving at The Orchard,  Routeburn Track

Apple trees in The Orchard clearing... Routeburn Track

The Orchard is quite extensive and spreads along both sides of the track and up the surrounding slopes. There was no fruit on the trees...they are over 100 years old and would not flower or fruit anymore. It is so bizarre to see a fruit tree grove totally surrounded by native forest. Another reminder of peoples need to find a place to call home...

Apple trees continue up Pt. 1494... Routeburn Track

Past the Orchard you will find yourself moving from forest to clearing to tussock fields and back to forest again. You are on your way to one of the highest waterfalls in New Zealand...the Earland Falls. 

Leaving the Orchard clearing and back into bush,  Routeburn Track

Ailsa Range from the Routeburn Track

There is a toilet near Sunny Creek halfway between the Orchard and Earland Falls and this is the only one you will pass until you get down near the old Howden Hut site. Make use of its comfort if required...otherwise find a convenient tree.

The toilet near Sunny Creek... Routeburn Track

There is a permanent water source at Sunny Creek...I stopped here for a ten minute break and filled up one of my water bottles from the nearby stream. There are stepping stones from the western end of the bridge down to the creek side and the water was cool, fresh and beautifully clear. 

Bridge over Sunny Creek on the way to Earland Falls

I really enjoyed the views across the Hollyford Valley to the distant mountain ranges. There was still snow on some of higher peaks and they looked splendid shining in the bright sunshine on that side of the valley. 

Mt Lyttle (1899) from the Routeburn Track

Consolation Peak (1851) from the Routeburn Track

At one point I stopped to tie my boot laces and when I stood up I noticed a number of Riflemen in a nearby bush. Prior to this trip I have only ever seen two Riflemen in the wild (both on Rukuria) but there is a good population of them along the Routeburn. I spotted them at least a dozen times over the four days...

...there are six Riflemen birds in this tree...

After for about 30 minutes I found myself at the start of the Earland Falls. The Earland Falls are one of the highest in New Zealand and at 174 meters they are quite spectacular. They are a series of long cascades rather than one fall and drop down from Lake Roberts to a deep pool at their base. 

I arrive at Earland Falls on the Routeburn Track

There was a bit of water coming off the Falls but it had been dry down in Fiordland for the proceeding month. I have seen videos of the Falls during a storm and they are so powerful they blow people off their feet just from the displacement of air. 

Lower end of Earland Falls, Routeburn Track

Earland Falls, Fiordland NP

Earland Falls are 174 meters high

There is a flood route to get around the Earland Falls but in extreme weather even this cannot be used. When I tried to walk the Routeburn back in 2019 this was the point that trampers could not navigate around and meant the track had to be closed. 

Bowl at the base of Earland Falls

From Earland Falls it is only two kilometers to Lake Howden so you are figuratively on the downhill side of your days tramp. It is a slow downwards sidle as you drop altitude and work your way down to the old Howden Hut site. 

Back on the Routeburn Track after passing Earland Falls

The track is rough and rocky around Earland Falls

Fernery just off the Routeburn Track

You pass another big slip half way to Lake Howden and cross a bridge over an old stream bed that has been scoured out at some stage by a big rain event. 

Bridge over an active slip, Routeburn Track

Descending down towards Pass Creek, Routeburn Track

I passed this big fat bugger just above Pass Creek...this was the only Keruru/Wood Pigeon I saw the whole time I was down in Fiordland. That's quite strange as I often see many of them but possibly the dry weather has meant they are living elsewhere this year. 

Keruru or Wood Pigeon...Routeburn Track

On the Routeburn Track near Pt.1197

Pass Creek is just above the old site of Howden Hut and is the last good water source before you get to the Divide Shelter. There is a foot bridge over the Creek which gets washed away just about every year and crossing it means you are only 250 meters away from Lake Howden. 

Pass Creek Footbridge, Routeburn Track

Pass Creek above the bridge...Routeburn Track

Lake Howden is notorious for sandflies so I stopped on the side of the track about a hundred meters short of the outflow stream. There is a nice flat area on the left side of the track with rocks to sit on so I stopped for a snack and some water. 

Rest spot just up from the old Howden Hut site

Is it 1952 or 2022...hard to tell for sure!!!

View up to Key Summit from near the old Howden Hut site

I arrived at Lake Howden after walking for about 3 hours and 30 minutes...from here it is just one hour to the end of the Routeburn Track. I stopped to have a look at the slip which took out Howden Hut. Those people in the hut were lucky...the slip totally covers the old hut site with a pile of rocks and other debris.

First view of the slip that took out Howden Hut in 2020

The Howden Hut slip face...Routeburn Track

Lake Howden was stinky...the slip debris have filled up the old outlet creek so the lake water is a lot more stagnant than it used to be. This whole end of the lake is shallow muddy wetland now...

Stanky outlet for Lake Howden, Fiordland NP

Here is a photo of the old Howden Hut from my visit in 2019...it was a real pity as the hut had a lot of character. I would be surprised if another hut is ever built here as the ground is all the same...steep and prone to slips. 

The old Howden Hut (1984-2020)

The Routeburn Track used to run right past the old hut but the slip and new stream bed have covered sections of it so DOC have re-routed it. 

The Routeburn Track has been rerouted around the slip...

Lake Howden, Fiordland NP

The new route goers past the old hut site (like you are heading down to the Greenstone Valley) before turning up a new track section leading to the Key Summit turn off.

Start of the climb up to Key Summit, Routeburn Track

New track section climbing to Key Summit

Eventually the new track re joins the old route about half way to the Key Summit side track...from here it is the same route I followed back in 2019 when I tried to walk the track. 

Nearly at the Key Summit junction...Routeburn Track

There was a large group of Ultimate Hikes trampers standing at the Key Summit turnoff so I didn't manage to stop there to take many photos. The one below is from my 2019 attempt on this track. I walked up to Key Summit on my last visit so didn't bother this time around. You should go up there...the views are excellent. 

Side track to Key Summit...off the Routeburn Track

The view from Key Summit...Fiordland NP

From the turn off to Key Summit it is down hill to the end of the track...from here it is 1.5 kilometers or about 40 minutes walking time to the end of the Routeburn. 

On the down hill run to the Divide Shelter....

Repaired track descending from Key Summit turn off

There is a good view up the hanging valley Lake Marian sits in from the Routeburn Track. There is a very nice walk up the valley to the lake and the entrance is just off the Te Anau-Milford Road at the start of the Lower Hollyford Road. It is one of the most popular side trips along SH 94...

View up to Lake Marian from the Routeburn Track

First clear view of SH94 the Te Anau-Milford Highway

You gradually make your way down the track losing height all the while. When you pass the bridge in the photo below you are about one kilometer from the end. 

The Divide Creek footbridge, Routeburn Track

The last section of the track is relatively flat and passes amongst an extended area of native Fuschia forest. Keep an eye on the pest traps as they count down the distance...they are one hundred meters apart and start from zero at the entrance to the Routeburn. 

800 meters from the track end at the Divide Shelter

My sense of anticipation was growing as I got down to the last couple of hundred meters of the track.

The end of an era....

So eventually I arrived at the end of the Routeburn Track and also the end of my 30+ year saga to walk all of the Great Walks. I must admit I did feel a bit emotional as the end of the track swung into view and I walked those last couple of meters. 

I've spent a lot of time working towards this moment...

The end of the Routeburn Track at the Divide Shelter

There it is folks...the end of the Routeburn Track!!!

Jon about to finish his 10th Great Walk.....

Covid has been awful for all of us but the lack of tourists in New Zealand has made it easier for Kiwis to experience these iconic destinations. I managed to walk six Great Walks over the last four years which would have been impossible under normal circumstances with 4 million tourists per year coming to New Zealand. 

I am going to miss tramping with groups who are mostly Kiwi but we cannot stay isolated from the world for ever....

Divide Shelter off SH94 in Fiordland NP

It was good to see the Divide Shelter once again...this might be the last time I visit it unless I decide to walk one of these Fiordland tracks again. I think if I am ever passing through it would be enroute to the Hollyford Valley as that track is also on my 'to do' list. Lots of huts to bag along that track...

Start/finish of the Routeburn Track at the Divide carpark

Information panels at the Divide end of the Routeburn Track

Information panels at the Divide end of the Routeburn Track

I arrived at the Divide Shelter just past 1 pm and the shuttle was not coming to collect me until around 3.15 so I had a couple of hours to spend sitting in the shelter. I changed my top and boiled some water for a freeze dried meal for my lunch. I was surprised with the lack of sandflies here...they are normally murderous. I had greased myself down with Deet of course...that doesn't normally deter them.

Sitting in the Divide Shelter after finishing the Routeburn Track

I had a magazine to read while I waited but I actually spent almost all the time talking to an older Brazilian women who arrived about 30 minutes after I did. She was working in Queenstown (in the hospitality trade) and has been walking the Great Walks on her time off. I worked hospitality and flatted with a Kiwi girl who lived in Brazil at University so we had lots to talk about. 

Interior of the Divide Shelter, Fiordland NP

Information panels in the Divide Shelter, Fiordland NP

View out to SH94 from the Divide Shelter

The Divide Shelter is spartan in nature but it does the job...it keeps the sun and rain off you and gives you a place to sit. There are toilets and changing rooms there and a water tap from a rainwater tank on the side of the shelter. Not much traffic was passing by so make sure you have something to read if you are going to be here for awhile. 

All the folks waiting for the shuttle at the Divide Shelter

The Tracknet shuttle arrived on time and transported us back to Te Anau and points further away. The shuttle was totally full as they already had people on board from the Milford Track and Milford Sound. It takes about an hour to drive back to town and I spent most of that time sleeping as the bus was hot and stuffy. 

SH94 runs right by the Divide Shelter

So....that is the end of my Great Walks saga for the time being...I am waiting to walk the Humpridge Track when they finally build the new hut later this year. If possible I will try to get on for the end of this year or early 2023. 

I have some ideas for further adventures on the Great Walks but I also think it is time to invest some time in other tracks like the Te Araroa Trail, Caples-Greenstone, Rees-Dart and down on Rakiura. 

McKellar Hut...I hope to revisit the Caples-Greenstone in 2022

I really enjoyed the Routeburn and I think it was the ideal track to finish on as it is one of the most beautiful. I liked all of it but I think day three from Routeburn Falls to Lake MacKenzie was the best even with the clouds and that awful track down to the Lake. It was also amazing to have a whole Great Walk hut to myself at Routeburn Flats...that's not going to happen ever again!!! My advice is to get down there and experience it for yourself....

Access: The Routeburn Track can be walked in both direction with the majority of trampers walking from East to West. From Queenstown I took the shuttle to the Routeburn Shelter stopping at Glenorchy on the way. We then followed the access road for about 30 kilometers to the carpark at Routeburn Shelter. The track starts from the bridge over the Routeburn.

Track Times:  Lake MacKenzie Hut to the Divide Shelter is 12 kilometers or 4-5 hours walking time. 

Hut Details:   Lake MacKenzie Hut: Great Walk, 50 bunks, woodburner, water tanks, woodshed, flush toilets: Lake MacKenzie Campsite: Great Walk, 10 sites, cooking shelter, water, compostable toilets: Lake MacKenzie Lodge: Private Lodge run by Ultimate Hikes for guided walkers: Divide Shelter: Day Shelter and bus stop: toilets, changing cubicles, water tap

Miscellaneous: All Great Walk huts/campsites are on the DOC Hut booking system, must be booked for overnight visit. Hut Warden present over summer season. Easy track but some uphill sections especially along the Routeburn Gorge. The access road to Routeburn Shelter is gravel and can be difficult to use in winter due to deep snow. 

You Tube Link: Lake MacKenzie to the Divide Shelter