Otira Valley Track, Arthur's Pass NP: 3 April 2022

 My favorite day tramp in Arthurs Pass...Otira Valley Track

I headed up to Arthurs Pass back in late April to walk my favorite day tramp in the park. The Otira Valley Track is a beautiful walk up to the cirque at the western base of Mt Rolleston the highest peak in the park.

Mt Rolleston from the Otira Valley Track

This was my first visit since 2019...at that time Karen and I walked up to the foot bridge for some lunch. It is always a wonderful walk especially on a warm sunny day. 

View up the Upper Otira Valley from the carpark

Start of the Otira Valley Track just near Arthurs Pass

You start from the small carpark about five kilometers west of Arthurs Pass Village and just over the actual pass down to the West Coast. There is space here for about 6-8 cars at a pinch. The alternate is to park down near the Temple Basin car park and follow the Arthurs Pass Walking Track up to Lake Misery where there is a track to the Valley.

Map: Otira Valley Track-Mt Rolleston

...the Otira Valley Track starts uphill immediately...

A note of caution right from the start of this post...the Otira Valley is prone to extreme avalanche risk from late May through October. If there has been a recent snow dump or if there is snow present and it is raining heavily DO NOT GO UP THIS VALLEY!!! I am not joking...it is awesomely dangerous when there is snow on Goldneys Ridge or the ridge line leading away from Mt Philistine. 

Turn off to Lake Misery, Otira Valley Track

Alpine shrubland along the Otira Valley Track

You are climbing right from the start and will not stop until you reach the upper basin about two hours later.The valley is filled with delicate subalpine and alpine plants and if you are here from late September to December you will see giant white Alpine Daisies growing everywhere. 

Cloud rolls up the lower Otira Valley...

The Otira Valley Track is marked with snow poles

It was a cracking blue sky day which is the best weather for a visit to the valley and you could see all of the surrounding ridges and mountains on both sides of the valley.  There was a full complement of cars in the carpark when I arrived at about 9.30 am but strangely I only saw four other people up the valley on my way to the top basin.

Hills Peak to Phipps Peak from the Otira Valley Track

The Otira Valley Track continues up the valley climbing steadily

Beautifully clear weather on the Otira Valley Track

The Otira Valley Track is very obvious as so many people walk up here but it is also marked with the standard DOC snow poles as you sometimes get deep snow in these parts. 

Rest stop along the Otira Valley Track

There is a variety of alpine and subalpine plants on view and you will see various shrubs, alpine flowers, grasses, tussock and low ground hugging plants. I passed many Mountain Daisies but it was past their peak period so no flowers were left. I also saw various varieties of Spaniard along the track. 

A type of Spaniard along the Otira Valley Track

To start the track is steep but it evens out on the approach to the bridge halfway up the valley. The track is rocky and full of roots so this is one of the tracks where boots are probably a good idea.

Rocky terrain on the Otira Valley Track

Looking down to the Otira River from the Otira Valley Track

Phipps Peak and Mt Stuart from the Otira Valley Track

The bridge over the Otira Valley is about two kilometers up the track and takes about 45-60 minutes to reach. This is where the majority of people will turn about and head back to their cars and is a fine walk in its own rights. If you do this spend some time around the bridge exploring the river...

View to the mid section of the Upper Otira Valley

The footbridge over the Otira River can be seen in the mid distance

Closer view of the bridge over the Otira River

There are a couple of side streams you will need to cross on the way to the bridge and from experience I can tell you they will be impassable in very heavy rain. If it is pouring down I would suggest a visit to either Punchbowl Falls or the Bealey Valley as an alternate...both have all weather tracks. 

Crossing a stream along the Otira Valley Track

Care must be taken on the wet rocks...Otira Valley Track

The bridge will eventually come into view and you make your way slightly down hill to the two huge boulder its uses as a foundation. The current bridge was only built in 2021 as a massive Spring storm destroyed the previous one. Note that the bridge is about 2.5 meters above the river so this gives you an idea of how much water can flow down this valley in a storm. 

Just down from the bridge on the Otira Valley Track

Warning sign by the bridge on Otira Valley Track

The new bridge constructed in 2021, Otira Valley Track

It is generally safe to walk up to the bridge from October to May provided there is no snow on the ridge tops...as previously stated it is dangerous outside these times. The track to this point is clearly marked and obvious but above the bridge it is a route and you sometimes need to pick your own path. Route finding and simple navigation skills are required at times.

You scramble up rocks to the bridge...Otira Valley Track

Crossing the mid reaches of the Otira River

Low water level in the Otira River near the bridge

I continued up above the bridge as I wanted to go have a look at the cirque basin at the western base of Mt Rolleston. The last time I was up there was back in the early 2000's and it is a picturesque location on a fine sunny day. 

Temple Basin from near the bridge, Otira Valley Track

The Otira Valley Track is visible below the bridge

SH73 can just be seen from the Otira Valley Track

There is a track from the bridge to the basin BUT it is not marked...there is only the ground trace to follow. If there is snow present and you are heading up valley (not recommended) then take care to choose your route carefully. There are a couple of places where poor route selection could lead to injury...

First glimpse of the west face of Mt Rolleston

The view of Mt Rolleston (2275) gets better the further up the valley you go as it is tucked off to the left hand side of the valley as you climb. It is impressive on this western side with huge buttresses from the valley floor to the high points...

The Otira Valley Track continues up towards Mt Rolleston

You have an excellent and unobstructed view back down the valley from the track and you can clearly make out all of the high points opposite the valley entrance. Mt Temple right through to Mt Stuart are visible and you can get a great view of the ski field at Temple Basin...

Clearer view of Temple Basin from the Otira Valley Track

There is a tramping group coming up the Otira Valley Track...

You are crossing scree slopes and boulder fields above the Otira River bridge and as you can see in the photos below the route is very obvious. Try to stay high above the river as there are massive boulders in the bed and a high line is much easier than humping your carcass up/over/around those boulders...

Unmarked track above the Otira Valley Bridge

Waterfall across the Upper Otira River from the track

The basin starts from the grass slope coming down the right hand side of the photo below...it is about two kilometers further up the valley from the bridge over the Otira River.

Clearer view of Mt Rolleston from the track

Shadow effect across a rock slide...Upper Otira Valley

The Otira Valley cirque is above the waterfall...center of photo

The section of the route from the bridge to the cirque is rocky as you cross a number of extended scree slopes and rock slips. There is a distinct ground trail you can follow most of the time but after snow or during a rainstorm this is not so easy to follow. This is why route finding skills are required...

Phipps Peak across SH73 from the Otira Valley

Otira Valley Track from near the top basin

I thought this section of the river was interesting...obviously so much water flows down here in a flood that it constantly clears the gravel off the rock shelf you can see. Only that massive boulder (the size of a refrigerator) has managed to maintain its position. 

Rock shelf and cascades in the Upper Otira River

Closer view of the cascades...Upper Otira Valley

The route climbs high on the true left of the river to avoid steep terrain along the sides of the river and zig zags up onto a large grassy slope. The vegetation is growing across the top of old scree and is more or less holding everything in place. 

Climbing up to the top basin...Otira Valley Track

You can see right up to the high peak of Mt Rolleston once you get onto the grassy slope although the top most peaks were obscured by cloud when I first arrived. It later cleared to give an awesome view of the whole of this side of Mt Rolleston. 

Mt Rolleston had cloud around the peak

You can see right down the valley from up here and the glacial nature of the terrain is much in evidence with moraine walls and glacial terraces visible. There was once a massive glacier up this valley that reached far down to the Taramakau Valley and that was as little as 8000 years ago. Even when Europeans first arrived in Canterbury there was still a significant glacial remnant on this side of Mt Rolleston...long gone now.

View as you head into the upper basin...Otira Valley

There are several small waterfalls and a series of cascades in the middle and upper reaches of the Otira Valley. I featured several of them in a vlog I recently made about South Island Waterfalls. 

More cascades in the Upper Otira Valley

Phipps Peak from the Upper Otira Basin

Great view of Mt Rolleston from Upper Otira Valley

Just before you crest the lip into the cirque you have to pass by a deep pool in the Otira River...the water looked to be a couple of meters deep but it is hard to tell when the water is so clear as it distorts depth. You pass along the side of the pool and at one point have to scramble around a slab of rock to continue. 

Beautiful pool in the Upper Otira River

Mt Rolleston dominates the Upper Otira Valley

Eventually you will make it to the start of the cirque below Mt Rolleston......you climb up over a lip to a large mostly flat area with boulders strewn across it. At the end of the cirque and off to the right side of the valley are huge bluffs from 500-800 meters tall leading up to the high peak of Rolleston. 

Cirque basin at the top of the Otira River Valley

View down towards Mt Philistine from the Upper Otira Basin

The upper basin is usually the preserve of mountaineers, boulder climbers and rock climbers who are attempting to climb the local attractions. It is difficult and committing terrain and most people will approach the main peak of Mt Rolleston from the eastern or southern flanks rather than from here. 

Upper Otira Basin is an eroded U-Valley

Striking view of the Mt Rolleston massif

It is possible to camp in the basin but you would have to be very cautious about where you placed your camp. The whole area is in the path of rock fall and I understand that most climbers set up camp down by the river as it has a bit of protection from falling rock.

If you are thinking of camping here you might want to peruse one of the climbing guides to the area as it has that kind of detail. Look for a Moir's guide or one of the NZAC guides for Arthurs Pass/Southern Alps.

...the headwaters of the mighty Otira River...

Huge bluffs on the western side of the Upper Otira Basin

Pt. 1832 from Upper Otira Basin

I spent about 20 minutes up in the basin before setting off down the track to the bridge...it was starting to move into the afternoon and I wanted to be back down at the bridge for a late lunch break.

Mt Stuart is visible from Upper Otira Basin

Climbers camp by the Upper Otira River...some protection!!

Hardy alpine plants in the Upper Otira Basin

The return trip is back the way you came scrambling over the rocks and crossing the scree and rock slopes to get back to the visible trail lower down the valley. 

You cross rock slides in the Upper Otira Basin

Heading back down to the Otira River Bridge...

On the way up and back take care near the big pool in the Otira River...the track is narrow through here and there are two places where you could slip into the river on steep gravel slopes. You need to stay on the true left of the river as there are bigger rapids both above and below this point that make crossing the river difficult.

The track skirts the river pool...Upper Otira Valley

The route is obvious in summer weather...Otira Valley Track

This spot in the photo below is the most dangerous...the track is one foot print wide and the scree is loose and crumbly. In snow or ice you will probably take a tumble down the slope next to the track. Crampons would be a good idea over the winter... 

...you negotiate some scree slopes on the Otira Valley Track...

Steep drop off to the Upper Otira River from the route

Just below the big pool you will find a sheltered grassy slope and this is where I stopped for a short break on my way down to the bridge. It was most pleasant laying back in the tussock and enjoying the warm sun...

I had a rest laying on this slope...Otira Valley

High peak of Mt Rolleston (2275 a.s.l)

After five minutes I was back on my feet and continuing on down to the bridge...

Making my way back down the Otira Valley Track

Crossing rock slide on the Otira Valley Track

View down to the bridge on the Otira Valley Track

There were a couple of groups around the bridge on my way back and this is where I stopped to have a late lunch (it was nearly 1.30pm). The area around the bridge is a great resting spot with lots of pools to explore, the river, the bridge and a couple of nearby accessible waterfalls coming down off Goldneys Ridge. 

...crossing back over the bridge on the Otira Valley Track...

...area immediately below the Otira River bridge...

Otira River from the bridge...Otira Valley Track

...a ladder would be useful to access the Otira River Bridge...

I sat down at the side of the river and enjoyed the sight and sound of the river flow...it cascades over rocks and boulders and it is crystal clear. I refilled one of my water bottles here and while you could drink the water straight from the source I still filtered my water to be safe.

...the bridge over the Otira River...

Crystal clear water in the Upper Otira River...

I had some sandwiches from the Arthurs Pass General Store, potato chips, raisins and water for my lunch. The General Store does a mean corn beef and cheese sandwich which is what I was eating. 

Spartan lunch near the Otira River bridge

My Vaude Brenta 40l day pack...Otira Valley Track

The flow in the river was very low as there has been little rain over the past couple of months. Normally all these rocks would be under water with a strong flow filling most of the space between the two boulders used as a foundation for the bridge. 

Otira River flows under the Otira River bridge

Great view down the Otira Valley Track from the river side

You can see SH73 from near the Otira River bridge

After 20 minutes sitting in the sun eating and taking photos I packed up my gear for the last time and set off down the track to the carpark...

Heading back down the Otira Valley Track from the bridge

Descending the track is much easier than ascending and I made quick progress down the track. I enjoyed the fine views down to the Otira River about 100 meters down the slope and of the surrounding mountain sides. 

Dense scrub along the mid reaches of the Otira River

Crossing the rock slide on the Otira Valley Track

Last view into the Otira Valley near the bridge

The mountains across SH73 are right in your face on the way back down to your car and peaks such as Mt Stuart, Phipps Peak, Hill Peak and Mt Temple can all be clearly seen.

More rock slides to cross...Otira Valley Track

Rock cairn along the Otira Valley Track

Another view of the large cairn...Otira Valley Track

Surprisingly I passed several people heading up the track as I was descending..it was after 2 pm which is late in the day for a visit. If you are thinking about heading up here late in the day bring a head torch as that track has many, many potential ankle breaking holes to stick your foot into. The best time to visit is mid morning after the sun has had a chance to warm the air in the valley. 

The Otira Valley Track heads down to the carpark

View of the Otira Valley Track carpark near SH73

It is slightly faster heading back down to the car park but with the rocky nature of the track, the roots, loose scree etc. you should exercise caution. 

Massive rock chonks along the Otira Valley Track

Last view of the Upper Otira Valley

Temple Basin is directly opposite the Otira Valley

You will quickly find yourself back down near the turn off to Lake Misery and from here you are only a couple of hundred meters from the track end. You will know you are close when you start to hear the road noise floating up from SH73...

Rocky section of the lower Otira Valley Track

SH73 from the lower Otira Valley Track, Arthur's Pass NP

Pegleg Creek is the valley across SH73 and flanked by Mt Stuart/Phipps Peak

This is an interesting chunk of rock...sedimentary stone that has been deposited here from some old lake, river or ocean. All this land has been pushed up by tectonic forces so it is entirely possible this is a remnant of some millions of years old ocean bed. 

Sedimentary rock along the Otira Valley Track

The Otira Viaduct Lookout is located at Death's' Corner

Nearly at the end of the Otira Valley Track

 All up the trip to the cirque took me about four hours in total which is roughly three hours of walking and an hour for rest breaks, lunch, photography and taking vlog clips. If you just walk up to the bridge and back as most people do you are looking at around 1.5 hours total.

Back at the roadend...finished the Otira Valley Track

Mt Philistine is the peak to the right of the Otira Valley

The Otira Valley is an awesome destination and whether you are just strolling up the track apiece, going to the bridge over the Otira or walking right up to the base of Mt Rolleston it is a worthy place to visit. I will definitely be back some time just to check it out once again. Just remember that you should not be up here over Spring/Winter/early Summer and I'm sure you will enjoy it as well. 

Access: Track starts just to the west of Arthur's Pass on SH73, there is a small car-park on the left of the road. Alternately the Valley can be reached from the side track off the end of the Arthurs Pass Walking Track at Lake Misery.
Track Times: 45 minutes to the foot bridge over the Otira River, another 45 minutes-1 hour to the cirque at the base of Mt Rolleston, same to return.
Miscellaneous: Extreme avalanche danger in Spring/Winter/early Summer along all of this track. Do not enter the valley in heavy rain or after a late Spring snow storm. I'm really not joking...it looks ok but is awesomely dangerous until the snowpack melts in November. Do not go above the bridge from late May to October without alpine gear and skills.

YouTube: Otira Valley Track