Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk, Nelson Lakes NP: 2 August 2022

A short side trip to Lake Rotoroa

I stopped by Lake Rotoroa on my way to Nelson recently and had a rainy stroll around the Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk. I was heading north on my annual pilgrimage to the Abel Tasman NP where I was scheduled to walk from Marahau to Totaranui over four days. 

The lake front at Lake Rotoroa, Nelson Lakes NP

...plenty of parking at Lake Rotoroa for visitors...

Lake Rotoroa is the second of the big lakes in Nelson Lakes NP and it is actually far larger than Lake Rotoiti. It used to be quite a popular place for adventures into the Sabine and D'Urville Valley's but is a bit of a backwater now with few visitors. It is probably going to be one of the next places to face development as there is flat land with beautiful forest and a lovely lake at its center. 

View to the Sabine Valley across Lake Rotoroa

There is a ramp for launching boats which is why most people visit and there are a number of short walks starting at the western end of the lake. 

Lake Rotoroa boat ramp and dock

There is not much at this end of Lake Rotoroa...a small DOC campsite, half a dozen holiday homes, a carpark with day shelter and a dock for small boats. There is a small shelter here with the remains of a historic canoe used by the first European to live in the area...Peter Jansen used to ferry people up and down the lake. 

Remains of a historic canoe used on Lake Rotoroa

The Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk starts from the carpark

If you like the less developed areas of the country then Lake Rotoroa will appeal to you...

On the Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk...

My primary focus for this trip was on the Abel Tasman Coastal Track but I also got in a couple  of shorter day walks at Maruia Springs, Nelson Lakes NP and at the Hope Saddle Lookout. It was raining along the Main Divide so I was walking the  Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk in the rain which was a different experience.

The start point for the Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk

The nature walk starts from the carpark at Lake Rotoroa settlement and loops through the forest for about 1.5 kilometers. At the carpark head across the grassed area towards the edge of the lake shore and follow the track markers...

...head over the lawn to the Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk...

The lake was calm and mirror like as I passed with the only disturbance being the falling raindrops on the surface. There was a bit of flooding around the lake edge as it has been a really long wet winter so far and everything is saturated!!!

Rain falls onto the surface of  Lake Rotoroa

If you arrive at Lake Rotoroa to walk the Nature Walk and find the grassed area under water then go look for another track. The track is often flooded when the lake is high and water over the grass means the forest floor will be inundated...

Flood debris at the start of the Nature Walk, Lake Rotoroa

The forest around here is a mixture of Podocarp and Beech species with the predominant tree being Red Beech and Kahikatea. It is a rough bush track but the forest is quite beautiful with huge trees and thick undergrowth. It seems certain that this area has never been milled for timber as some of the trees must be 400-600 years old. 

Take care around pest traps at Lake Rotoroa

Start of the Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk

...more basic tracks at Lake Rotoroa....

 I noticed a lot of flood debris just inland from the lakefront...so lake can flow into the forest after heavy rain in the local catchments. The outlet from Lake Rotoroa is the narrow and constricted Gowan River so the lake can rise quite a lot above its normal level.

Flood debris on the Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk

There are plenty of orange DOC track markers along the Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk to keep you following the right path. The outline of the track is clear but the forest here is quite dense with a thick understory...

The Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk is well marked

The track crosses a number of small streams and creeks and one of them is not bridged so this is NOT an all weather track. 

Stream running past the Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk

Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk...thick forest and under growth

There was a lot of water on both the forest floor and in the streams and I specifically wore my boots as I expected it to be quite wet and muddy. 

It was....

Most streams are bridged on the Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk

Track as stream bed...Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk

There are several places along the first section of the track with views out to Lake Rotoroa. At times the edge of the lake is only a meter or so from the side of the track...

There are several views of the Lake...Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk

While most of the track is soil with a covering of dry leaves and twigs some sections are covered with tree roots as the forest is thick here. Care is needed when walking over them as they are covered in moss and slippery as hell when wet...

Slippery roots along the Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk

Stream runs across the Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk

Dense fernery along the Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk

Now and then the sunlight would penetrate to the forest floor but for the most part the canopy limits your view of the sky. 

Kahikatea Tree next to Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk

I had the track to myself...probably due to the rain but it is also winter so not many visitors to the lake. The only people I saw the whole time I was at Lake Rotoroa were down around the bach's and holiday homes. A few of the residents were out working in their yards...

Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk...boardwalk over a swamp

Boots are needed on a wet day...Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk

The track veers left and begins to head away from the lake and deeper into the forest. You are on your way to the Porika Track which intersects with the Nature Walk about 500 meters inland. 

Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk turns inland from the lake

There is a track junction about 15 minutes along the track where the Nature Walk passes the five hour route to the other end of Lake Rotoroa. This is the old Lake Rotoroa Track which is no longer maintained by the Department of Conservation. 

The Lake Rotoroa Track ran along the north-eastern side of the lake from Lake Rotoroa settlement to Sabine Hut. The Lake Rotoroa Track was largely destroyed in a big storm about 6-7 years ago and never repaired. I walked along this track as part of an Army exercise back in 1989/1990 and it was an easy to follow track much like the Lakehead Track at Lake Rotoiti.

Junction of Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk and Lake Rotoroa Route

There is a sign across the route warning of the rough nature of the track which is very real. People should not venture further along this route without a full set of outdoor gear including a tent, PLB, navigation equipment, maps/compass and fantastic backcountry skills.

 It probably sees less than 20 parties per year so be prepared for some hard work! 

This is real Tiger country and very seldom visited so if you go along the Lake Rotoroa Route you will probably be totally on your own.

...here be tyger's....Lake Rotoroa Route...

Last year I give a ride to a trio of anglers who had tramped along the old Lake Rotoroa Track recently and they said that someone has been restoring it. It must be volunteers doing the work as DOC have abandoned the track. 

Supposedly it is a bit rough in places but still usable so this might be a possible trip idea for some time in the future. More research would be required before I would head up that route...you could be landing yourself in a real world of hurt.

Jon at the junction of Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk and Lake Rotoroa Route

The Nature Walk by comparison is well maintained with no trees down over the track at all and the couple that had fallen close to the track had been thoroughly cleared away from the track side. 

The forest gradually changes from thick three tier Beech forest to more open Podocarp forest the further away from the lake you walk.

Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk...change to Red Beech forest

Spearwood and Horopito Trees at Lake Rotoroa

...changing to Podocarp forest further inland at Lake Rotoroa...

As you walk down to the Porika 4 W/D Track the beech trees give way to Podocarp forest with a mix of Kahikatea/Matai/Miro and Rata Trees. There were also a number of young Rimu growing...still small at less than 5 meters tall but eventually they will be as massive as the other trees in the area. 

Large Red Beech Tree...Lake Rotoroa

The Beech forest is more open...Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk

All of these larger trees will be over 300 years of age...just coming to maturity for most Podocarp species. Some of the hardier trees like Red Beech, Rata and Rimu can live for much longer i.e 600-800 years.

View across a clearing along the Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk

I kept seeing native Fuchsia Trees as I walked along the track...I was surprised to see them here as you normally get them at higher altitudes. Nice to see them though...they are one of my favorite native trees...the bark is an excellent firestarter!!!

Native Fuchsia Tree...Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk

There are boardwalk bridges over the smaller streams

These photos give you an idea of how big the root base is on one of these podocarp trees. This Red Beech tree has fallen down at some point in the past just off the track. The roots at the base were easily 2-3 meters wide but as you can see they are super shallow. 

That is why you often see big swathes of downed forest...if one blows over it will knock others down as it falls. The gap in the canopy also allows strong wind into the forest and can lead to a domino effect blowing down one tree after the other. 

Large fallen Red Beech tree on the Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk

After about 25 minutes you will come to a rough 4 W/D road which joins onto the end of the Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk. This is the Porika Track...you turn left back towards the carpark and walk along the road. 

I arrive at the Porika Track, Lake Rotoroa

...head left to the shore of Lake Rotoroa...

Small stream crossing the Porika Track

View down the Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk from Porika Track

The Porika Track heads over the Muntz Range and comes out close to the Howard River off SH 63. Looking at the topo map it looks like a rough, steep and difficult track but I suppose you could use it as a route to walk over the mountains. 

An MTB ride or walk for the future perhaps....?

Porika Track heads north to Lake Rotoiti

There is a small stream about 100 meters up the Porika Track which you need to cross. It is usually dry and easy to cross but on the day the stream was ankle deep so it could potentially flood in very heavy rain. 

If you got to this point and couldn't cross the stream turn around and head back along the bush track as there is a deeper stream to cross ahead of you. You are surrounded by massive Red Beech and Kahikatea Trees as you walk along the 4 W/D track and it feels very remote.

Porika Track...you must ford the stream

Near the end of the Porika Track at Lake Rotoroa Settlement

There is another stream to cross about 200 meters further along the Porika Track and this one was quite a lot deeper. If you crossed at the ford one of the channels was knee deep but it is easy to cross if you head upstream a bit and look for a wider and more shallow crossing point...

...second stream to cross on the Porika Track...

...knee deep on this stream...

You eventually pop out next to the start of Lake Rotoroa settlement and there are about ten private properties along the road. These are all holiday homes with only a couple being permanently occupied so they look a bit overgrown. 

Start of Lake Rotoroa Settlement along Porika Track

There are a couple of nice houses here and one place with an attached small cottage you can stay in. There is also a lodge at Lake Rotoroa but it has been closed since Covid rolled in as it catered for the well heeled tourist trade and will not reopen until they return...

Some of the bach's at Lake Rotoroa Settlement

Some of the nicer houses at Lake Rotoroa Settlement

There is a small campsite at Lake Rotoroa with non powered sites available. It looks like it could hold about 10 people at one time...there are water taps here but no toilet. The only public toilet at Lake Rotoroa is down near the car-park. 

It is probably only full over summer when people with motorboats come to visit the lake. 

Lake Rotoroa Campsite

...room for about 10 tents at Lake Rotoroa Campsite...

Lake Rotoroa Campsite sign

From the campsite you once again turn left and head down one of the gravel access roads back to the lake front. There is really beautiful forest along the road with several large Fuschia Trees at the start of the track. 

...heading back down to the Rotoroa lake front...

More native Fuchsia Trees at Lake Rotoroa

There is a small toilet block along the road which is close to the campsite so you could use this if camping locally. There is also a water tap and bench with sink....

...you can see Lake Rotoroa from the toilet block...

Lake Rotoroa toilet block...it is near the campsite

There is a small day shelter at the Lake Rotoroa carpark with seats and a table inside. Fair warning Lake Rotoroa is sandfly heaven (...which is probably why it is less developed...). Much, much worse that any other place I have visited in Nelson Lakes NP. 

It would be nigh on impossible to sit in the shelter for more than two minutes before the furious aerial assault would force you to run for cover inside your car. 

Day shelter at Lake Rotoroa

Lake Rotoroa is truly a remote location and even though there is a large and interesting lake here it gets few visitors and is largely forgotten by the majority of people. It is a real pity as it is lovely...

Foreshore at Lake Rotoroa, Nelson Lakes NP

I will be back the next time I am heading to St Arnaud or Nelson as I would really like to walk at least the first section of the Lake Rotoroa Route. I have heard there are some gigantic Red Beech trees about half an hour up the route with a decent swimming beach nearby...

Back at the carpark on the Lake rotoroa foreshore

If you ever find yourself passing by the Lake Rotoroa turn off en-route to St Arnaud, Nelson, Blenheim or Murchison I totally recommend you stop by Lake Rotoroa. Go see what the other half of Nelson Lakes National Park has to offer. 

Access: Turn off SH 6 at Gowanbridge and follow Gowan Valley Road for 11 kilometers to the start of Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk and Nelson Lakes National Park.
Track Times: Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk is approximately 1.5 kilometers or 25-40 minutes along a forest loop track. 
Miscellaneous: There is a toilet and day shelter at the Lake Rotoroa carpark. Be prepared to fight off massive swarms of voracious sandflies. Do not follow the Lake Rotoroa Route to the Sabine Valley without suitable equipment and experience. 

YouTube: Lake Rotoroa Nature Walk