Overnight trip to Otamahua/Quail Island

Staying at Otamahua Hut 

I went for my first visit in 2023 to Otamahua/Quail Island recently and to try something different I stayed on the island overnight. You can book and stay at Otamahua Hut on the island on the DOC website and the 12 bunk hut is fully serviced with flush toilets, water tanks and plenty of firewood for the woodburner. 

At Otamahua Hut with tea mug in hand

The hut is a conversion of an old farm cottage from the 1920's and DOC have done a great job adding a new modern interior into a much older heritage shell. It has plenty of space both inside and out and nice views down to Lyttelton Harbor and the Port Hills. 

Front of Otamahua Hut on Quail Island

There is a jetty on the eastern side of Otamahua where the ferry berths...from here you are free to explore the island. There is a 5.5km track called the Otamahua Loop Track around the outside of the island which can be walked in either direction and this starts right from the jetty.  

The shelter at the Otamahua/Quail Island jetty

I had a great time on the island and thought you might like to have a look at what a night in this hut is all about. 

On the ferry to Otamahua/Quail Island:

You get to Quail Island by private boat or on the Black Cat Ferry from Lyttleton. It boards just over the railway bridge off the main entrance to the Port. Tickets are $15 for a child and $35 per adult and bookings are advised as the island is popular. There are scheduled sailings to the island at 10.15, 12.30 and 3.30 pm and the last ferry returns from Otamahua at 3.45. 

Interior of the ferry to Quail Island

We start the journey to Quail Island

There were about 20 odd people on the ferry and I would see a number of them on the island later in the day. We had a lovely warm and sunny day for the trip with little cloud and only a gentle breeze. Perfect conditions really...

We head away from the dock at Lyttleton

Lyttleton township from the Quail Island Ferry

There was a cruise liner in Lyttleton from the Norwegian Line and the town was full of international visitors. I know lots of people aspire to go on a cruise ship but for me I could not think of anything worse. It would be nice going from place to place and eating like a pig all the time but those cruise ships are modern day plague ships. 

Nope...not for me!!!

Norwegian Lines ship Norwegian Spirit was at Lyttleton

There was an Antarctic ice breaker in the harbor which arrives every summer to take equipment and scientists down to the ice. It is operated by the US National Science Foundation but they also charter the ship out to various groups. 

Usually you see a Russian ice breaker in port around this time of the year BUT...Ukraine!!!

RV Nathaniel B Parker in Lyttleton harbor

There was a cruise ship in Lyttleton for the day...it was the 80 000 ton Norwegian Spirit which is on the circuit around New Zealand for the 2022/2023 season. It basically sails around the country every 10 days picking up passengers along the way. This is a moderate sized cruise ship...the really big ones are getting up to the 150 000 ton mark now but we seldom see those monsters down here. 

Norwegian Spirit weighs in at 80 000 tonnes

The fery was full on the way to Quail Island and when we arrived there were about 30 people waiting to head back to the mainland. Quail Island is very popular destination in the summer months and there are many visitors over the weekends and holidays. 

Passengers board the ferry to Lyttleton

View towards  Charteris Bay from the Quail Island dock

The ferry docks on the north east side of the island and from here you follow the network of paths which skirt the edge of the island in both directions. It was a busy scene with passengers getting on and off the ferry and gear being loaded aboard.

Good view of the Quail Island day shelter

There is a useful map at the end of the dock and the ferry operators also have maps available on the ferry. You cannot really go wrong as the main track does a big loop right around the island. 

Map of the facilities on Otamahua/Quail Island

I headed around the island in an anti clockwise direction as I was only going the 800 odd meters to the hut and it is right at the track junction. There are signs, markers and arrows pointing the way along the Loop Track but the track network on the island is basic.

 No need to carry a Topo map or GPS on this tramp...!!!

Otamahua Hut is off to the right

You climb up to the spine of the island before sidling around to the hut which is about 800-900 meters from the dock. The track is easy walking with a series of switchbacks to help you gain height. 

Climbing up to the historic stables on Quail Island

One of the few shady parts of the Otamahua Loop Track

The first historic building is an old horse quarantine stables used by Wolseley, Shackleton and Scott when they went down to Antarctica. All the early British expeditions to Antarctica used ponies or manpower to haul supplies which is one of the reasons they were so unsuccessful. Roald Amundsen used trained sled dogs better suited to the task.

Historic stables on Otamahua/Quail Island

The track heads to the high point on Otamahua/Quail Island

The animals had to be quarantined before heading south...you didn't want to get there and find the ponies had some type of disease that killed them all.  The stable has been restored and there are some interpretive panels to explain what it was used for. There is also an impressive array of old farming equipment next to the stable. 

Otamahua/Quail Island...the old quarantine stables

There is a wealth of native birds on the island now that the native bush is getting taller. I saw many species while there including this fat and satisfied looking Kereru or Wood Pidgeon. Other species include Seagulls, Quail, Bellbirds, Tui, Fantails and the occasional Mahua. 

Keruru or Wood Pidgeon in a tree, Quail Island

From the shed you head along the northern edge of the island to Otamahua/Quail Island Hut. You continue along the loop track to the hut...it is well maintained grass with markers and interpretive panels as you go. The hut is about 300 meters from the stables you have just passed. 

Track leading from the stables to hut, Otamahua/Quail Island

50 meters from this sign to Otamahua Hut

I was heading to the hut first as I wanted to have a bit of a look at the place I would be staying. 

At Otamahua Hut:

Quail Island Hut was an old farm cottage that was converted over 2020 into a awesome 12 bunk DOC hut. They have done a magnificent job and is is well utilised by families, youth groups, schools and newbie trampers. The conversion was beautifully sympathetic to the original building and the fit out of the interior is really interesting

First view of Otamahua Hut from the track

View to Lyttleton and Port Hills from the hut

Otamahua Hut is on the DOC hut booking system and must be booked before you visit. It is super popular and is often booked out months in advance especially over weekends, holidays and long weekends. 

Surprisingly I had the hut to myself that night even though there were other people booked to stay. I guess they decided to head elsewhere or didn't like the look of the bad weather due to arrive the next day. 

Otamahua Hut: Living space and burner

Otamahua Hut: one of two bunkrooms

Otamahua Hut: my pit setup in the second bunkroom

Otamahua Hut: view of the kitchen space

The hut was already empty so instead of going for a walk I just took up residence in the hut. First up was some lunch and after brewing up I sat outside in the lovely sun and ate my crackers, cheese and salami. 

Lunch and a brew at Otamahua Hut

There is an awesome view to Lyttleton from the hut veranda and you can see the goings on down on the water with various water craft buzzing about. The top terminus of the Gondola is directly opposite the hut and later in the day I could see the lights shining from across the harbor. 

Lyttleton Harbor from Otamahua Hut

DOC built a big veranda outside the hut in 2020 and there are a couple of picnic tables located here for the guests to use. They were donated by Ara Construction students and have our branding on them. It is one of the projects they work on early in their studies. I have seen these in many spots around Canterbury including at Woolshed Creek Hut, Packhorse Hut, Lake Daniell, Akaroa and out in Bottle Lake Plantation. 

...you can just see the picnic table on the left...

Groups of people passed through right over the afternoon and I had conversation with many of them. Most seemed surprised to know you could stay on the island so I might have drummed up some future custom for the hut. 

Other walkers eat lunch at Otamahua Hut

The hut has a set of flush toilets at the rear, a woodshed and a set of quarters for DOC hut wardens or workers. I have yet to see any DOC workers on Quail Island but they must come over to do maintenance and cleaning from time to time. 

Toilet and DOC Quarters at Otamahua Hut

Plant information panel at Otamahua Hut

There was a full shed of wood at the hut BUT no damn axe!!!

All they had was a small hatchet attached to a chopping block so it is impossible to cut any firewood. I am of a mind to buy an axe and take it over to the hut but some scumbag would just steal it. 

...fully loaded wood shed at Otamahua Hut...

There was a family of California Quail living near the hut and they kept coming out and checking out the grassy lawn in front of the hut. There were about 10 of the cute little buggers and i could hear their calls for most of the afternoon. 

These Quail are not native to New Zealand but were introduced about 10 years ago to replace the native Quail which once lived on the island. They are super cute and I liked to se them a lot. 

California Quail check out their patch at Otamahua Hut

...Boss Quail tries to decide if Jon is a threat...

It was still and warm at the hut with temperatures up around 25 Celsius. Autumn has arrived once again and it is slowly growing colder as each week passes. It is just about time to start the 2023 winter series of tramps...I have some ideas for some good ones this year. 

Late afternoon view out over Lyttleton Harbor

I did some firewood preparation in the afternoon. There is a massive pile of Macrocarpa off cuts near the hut which were as dry as a bone and aching to go up in smoke. It broke up quite a lot and stashed some in the hut and in the woodshed for future use. I didn't need them that night but I did light the fire the next morning as it was wet and cold.

Dry Macrocarpa off cuts for the woodburner

Kindling preparation at Otamahua hut

By the time I finished preparing the kindling and stocking up wood for the night it was time for a brew. I made myself a coffee and sat outside. The last visitors came by just before 3 pm and then I largely had the island to myself for the rest of the day. Once the last ferry leaves it is only those staying the night left on the island. 

Jon with brew in hand at Otamahua Hut

I was quite happy sitting out in front of the hut looking at the view and drinking my brew...

Strolling around the island...

About 4.30 in the afternoon I set off for a stroll along the track. The Quail Island Loop Track continues past the hut and gradually makes its way around to the south-western side of the island. The track is a wide, well mown strip of grass with some benched track sections where it climbs up and over headlands and ridges. 

Loop track continues past Otamahua Hut

It is hideously exposed to all weather conditions so be prepared for hot, cold, wet, dry conditions at all times. At a minimum bring a jacket, warm clothes, lots of water and some food. 

There are excellent views of the Port Hills

The whole northern side of Quail Island is a series of big cliffs up to 80 meters high so it is important that you follow the safety signs and stay on the track. If you are bringing children with you keep them on a super tight leash as the cliffs are abrupt and you wont know you're in trouble until it is too late...

View towards Lyttleton Heads from Quail Island

The track meanders around the edge of the island passing a number of historic places and natural sites of interest on the way. There are interesting views right the way along the track and it would be worthwhile doing a bit of research before you visit so you understand what you are looking at. 

Area of native planting on Otamahua/Quail Island

Sea cliffs on the north side of Quail Island

There is an excellent view right up Lyttleton Harbor from a point on the track a kilometer away from the hut. It is perhaps the nicest view on the island and warrants a trip along the track just to have a look. 

Lyttleton Harbor from the Quail Island Track

Port of Lyttleton from Quail Island

When Europeans first arrived Quail Island was covered in thick bush and forest, the first landowner milled the largest of the trees and then set fire to the rest to clear the land. The fires burnt for three days and were visible 50 miles out to sea. The land was then over planted with grasses to provide fodder for a small herd of sheep.

The Quail Island Restoration Trust have been replanting the island since the early 1980's and it is starting to bear fruit...some of the trees are now 4+ meters tall and more and more of the island is returned to bush each year.

I would absolutely love to come back in 100 years because it will be spectacular...

Track junction a kilometer from Otamahua Hut

Quail Island Track continues around the island

The highest place on Quail Island is Pt. 86 in the center of the island, I took one of the tracks off the coastal track and climbed up to see the sights. 86 meters is not that high but when you are on a island it gives excellent 360 degree views in all directions. It is worth visiting Otamahua/Quail Island  just for the view from the high point.

Climbing up to the high point on Quail Island

...the tracks are mostly short mown grass...

There is a track junction where you can go up to Pt. 86, down to Swimmers Beach or along the crest of the island to Otamahua Hut. I saw some Quail near here and this is the third time I have seen them here so they must live in the nearby bush. 

Quail Island is covered with native bush and grassland

Track junction in center of Quail Island

Once on top you have great views in all directions...all the Port Hills are visible as is Lyttelton, Diamond Harbor and toward the head of Lyttelton Harbor & Gebbies Pass. You can see just how much effort has gone into replanting on the island...a good 30% of the land is now covered with native trees and scrub.

Otamahua/Quail Island is a lot larger than it seems...this is especially apparent from Pt. 86 as you can see all four corners of the island.

Pt. 68 is the high point on Quail Island

The views of Lyttleton Harbor, the Port Hills and Banks Peninsula are superb with unobstructed views from the Heads of Lyttleton right back to Head of the Bay's, Governors Bay and Gebbies Pass. 

Diamond Harbor from center of Quail Island

Here are a series of photos showing the awesome views from the summit which at 86 meters a.s.l is not massive but high enough to see right around the island...

Narrow channel between Quail Island and mainland

The center of the island has been replanted in natives trees and understory plants similar to those that once clothed the island. When Europeans arrived in Canterbury they burnt all of the ancient trees off the island so it could be used for grazing land. It is very arid here so the bush has not been able to recover without some significant human intervention. 

Sugarloaf transmitter to the north of Quail Island

Cass and Corsair Bay from Quail Island

There is a reliéf map next to the totem pole which gives the names and heights of all of the peaks along the Port Hills. The names are in English but I note that the new 2022 Topo map for Banks Peninsula now has all the Maori names as well...

Diagram of peaks along the Port Hills

The pole at the top of the island was carved by a local Maori artist and is meant to symbolize the role Otamahua played as a food source to the local Iwi. Maori did not live on the island permanently but it was a seasonal source of birds, shellfish, fish and medicinal plants. 

Maori pole in center of Quail Island

You can look east and west along the crest of the island from Pt. 86 and it gives you a good impression of the true size of the island. 

View east along crest of Quail Island

After 10 minutes atop the high point I headed back along the route I had followed. I was heading along the 4 W/D track in the center of the island to a point at the rear of Otamahua Hut. 

Heading back towards Otamahua Hut

Mature native plants near the middle of Quail Island

There are a number of side tracks branching off this central road and you can use them to access various points of interest across the island. 

Old 4 W/D track along crest of Quail Island

Junction with track to Swimmers Beach

At one point there is a side track to a lookout with views down to Swimmers Beach and the southern side of the island. I walked out to have a look before heading back to the road and continuing back to the hut. 

Short path to lookout on Quail Island

View south towards Gebbies Pass...Quail Island

The road takes you right to the rear of the hut near the firewood shed with pathways around both sides of Otamahua Hut.

Track near the rear of Otamahua Hut

Arriving back at Otamahua Hut

Once back at the hut I sat outside o the veranda and looked across at Lyttleton while I thought about cooking my dinner for the night. How nice would it be to sit there with some red wine and just enjoy having the hut to yourself. 

View from the veranda of Otamahua Hut

If you go stay on the island I recommend you go for a walk once the people have left. It is interesting having the island to yourself safe in the knowledge that your gear will be safe sitting in the hut for awhile. 

Burgers for dinner at Otamahua...

Because it is so short of a walk from the wharf to the hut you can go heavy and take something nice with you for dinner on the island. Normally I am a dried pasta or freeze dry person but for this trip I took a frying pan with me to cook some pre made Angus Beef Burgers.

Frying my beef burgers, Otamahua Hut

..not too bad of a job...

I decided not to take bread with me to eat with my burgers and instead had a bag of the O-Meals Hashbrown Potatoes with me. These are a retort pouch of food with a thermo-chemical heating pad much like an American MRE meal. They are delicious and make an excellent accompaniment for any fried meat like bacon, steak, burgers or sausages. 

Diner time at Otamahua Hut

Of course I took some tomato sauce with me and boy was it a satisfying meal. The burgers were good quality and the Hashbrown went with them well. 

Bon Appetite!

I also took a couple of cans of cider with me which I had chilling in a big pot of water so they stayed relatively cold. It was a brand I have not had before (I cannot remember the name) and it went well with my meal. I sat outside and listened to the late afternoon birdsong as I supped my drinks. 

I had a can of fruit cider as well...Otamahua Hut

My new Macpac frying pan Karen brought me worked a real treat...I will be taking it on some more trips like this going into the future. 

Some residue on my new Macpac frying pan

Otamahua Hut: interior of kitchen

Otamahua Hut: living area

After dinner I cleaned all of my cooking gear and then went and sat on a fallen tree near the hut and watched the goings on over at the Port of Lyttleton.

Late afternoon view across to Lyttleton

Later in the evening I made a coffee and sat outside reading my Kindle as the sun set behind the Port Hills. 

Reading my Kindle at Otamahua Hut

Lyttleton is a busy port and work continued through the night

Light comes from inside Otamahua Hut

I was inside the hut and asleep by 9.30 pm so I had a good eleven hours of sleep that night. It was still relatively warm so I didn't light the fire as it was not necessary. I passed an uneventful night alone in the hut. 

Day two: Rain and heading down to the ferry...

I was booked on the 12 noon ferry the next day so there was no reason for me to get up early. When I finally did rise it was to find a very different day...it was cold, wet and windy outside and Lyttleton was barely visible through the rain. 

Rain obscures the view to Lyttleton

I made myself a brew and lit the fire as it was cold enough to warrant it. 

Boiling water for a brew on day 2 at Otamahua Hut

I soon had a blazing fire going and it quickly heated the hut up to a comfortable temperature. The hut had insulation added when it was converted into a hut and it works well trapping the heat within the hut. 

Fire burning in the woodburner to warm Otamahua Hut

The firewood at Otamahua Hut was bone dry

Morning at Otamahua Hut with the fire going

Breakfast was a freeze dried meal of Yogurt and Muesli but I should have taken some bacon and buns for a Bacon butty. It would have been fine over night and if I ever stay in the hut again I will take some with me. 

I finished off my cheese slices and had another 3 in 1 coffee with my meal. 

I sit down to breakfast at Otamahua Hut

...Backcountry Yogurt and Muesli was on the menu as well...

After breakfast I cleaned my cooking gear and basically sat inside the hut near the fire as I waited for the noon ferry. It was raining outside so my planned trip down to Swimmers Beach was off the cards. I was happy enough drinking tea and reading.

FYI: you also have cellphone cover from the hut so you can surf the net using your own data if that is your thing. 

Clearing conditions looking towards Lyttleton

There are a couple of picnic tables at Otamahua Hut

About 10 am I started getting ready to head down to the day shelter near the wharf. I packed my pack and filled my water bottles as there is no water source at the day shelter. I stayed in the hut till 11 am but I wanted to be ready to move as soon as it made sense. 

Packing my gear in preparation for leaving Quail Island

I left my brew kit to allow me to make drinks

The family of Quail came out to visit once again and I sat outside under the veranda and watched them picking through the lawn in front of the hut. 

Quail on the lawn at Otamahua Hut

I left Otamahua Hut just past 11 am and set out on the short 15 minute walk back down to the wharf and day shelter. I walked down the 4 W/D track behind the hut as this is the most direct route to the shelter. 

Setting off back to the day shelter on Quail Island

Rain obscures Lyttleton as I leave Otamahua Hut

DOC vehicle garage near Otamahua Hut

On the way down to the day shelter you pass a clearing with the old Akaroa Heads Lighthouse Keepers Cottage in it. It has long been used by DOC for work gangs visiting the island but is due to be converted into a single use stand along hut sometime in the near future. 

This will give a group of up to six people there own small hut to occupy and will provide yet another place to stay on the island. Work was due to begin in 2020 what Covid has disrupted the plan so who knows when it will be finished. I look forward to having a look inside once the conversion is done.

Passing the old Akaroa Heads Cottage, Quail Island

Akaroa Heads Lighthouse Keepers Cottage, Quail Island

From the old cottage you continue down the track to the wharf and the nearby day shelter. It was raining heavily as I walked down to the shelter and I did wonder about if the ferry would be able to get to the island. I rang the Black Cat office from the shelter and they told me the ferry was on schedule to be at Quail Island at 12.15. 

On the track heading down to the Quail Island wharf

From the track you can see Hays Bay and Charteris Bay over on the eastern side of Lyttleton Harbor. When I was younger there were less than a dozen houses around those bays but as land prices have risen more and more homes have been built there. There is now an almost continuous strip of housing from Purau to Charteris Bay...

Rain falls between Quail Island and Diamond Harbor

First view of Quail Island Wharf from the track

There is a day shelter off a side track near the jetty and it provides cover while you wait for the ferry to arrive. There is space inside for about 30 people but no water or toilets so use the facilities at the Otamahua Hut or at Swimmers Beach before heading here. 

Side track to Quail Island Day Shelter

 You have a clear line of sight to the jetty so you can sit inside and only head down as the ferry maneuvers into place. Across the Harbor you can see Diamond Harbor and out to Mt Evans in the far distance. Mt Evans is about the fifth highest peak on Banks Peninsula...

Quail Island Wharf from the shelter

View from the seat in Otamahua Day Shelter

Jon ensconced at the Quail Island Shelter

It was raining on and off but I was fine inside the shelter...I had a bit of food left over from the previous day and I stayed put until I heard the ferry engines approaching just after 12 noon. 

Diamond Harbor is clearly visible from Quail Island

Jon eats some Pringles at the Quail Island Shelter

It takes all of 2 minutes to walk down to the wharf but as I did not expect a lot of people to arrive I set off to the jetty just as the boat rounded the head. I didn't want to make the pilot wait any longer than necessary. 

Closer view of the Quail Island Wharf

The last ferry for the day arrives at 3.30 pm and if you miss it your will be on the island for the rest of the night as there is no other way to get back to the mainland. If you are coming over to stay at Otamahua/Quail Island Hut then this is probably the service you want to use to give you time to settle into the hut before dark. 

End of the Quail Island Loop Track at the wharf

Mt Herbert is obscured by rain clouds

Quail Island Ferry on its approach

If it is fine there is a picnic table and some flat ground down by the wharf. It is quite nice to walk along the edge of the wharf and look at the fish swimming under the jetty. There is also a picturesque section of sea wall here you can explore. 

Picnic table near the Quail Island Wharf

I was the only person on the island so the 12 pm ferry was largely for my benefit. The island is often quiet over the week even in summer and when the weather changes later in the year it will only have visitors over the weekends. 

Two very ill equipped people did get off the boat and start walking around the island but they were going to have a miserable day. It was wet, cold and windy and they didn't even have a bag between them. I think they were going to spend most of the day in the hut because the sure weren't set up to walk in the rain. 

Black Cat ferry approaches Quail Island

Ferry docks at the wharf on Quail Island

...we are heading for distant Lyttleton...

It was an uneventful trip back across Lyttleton Harbor and I was pleased to see Karen waiting for me on the dock with a big smile on her face. I like that she misses me when I am gone as this was not always the case with other people. 

Interior of Quail Island ferry enroute to Lyttleton

Back at Lyttleton and ready to head home

Heading for the Lyttleton Road Tunnel and home

A visit to Otamahua/Quail Island is a great day tramp and I can thoroughly recommend it as a worthwhile destination. It is excellent as a family trip or dare I say it date with your significant other. Make sure you book the ferry and take enough clothing, food and water to sustain you for your visit.

Access: Ferry service from Lyttleton, the trip takes 15 minutes ($15 child, $30 adult), Black Cat Cruises are the operator, tickets are available online and bookings are recommended. 

Track Times:  Quail Island Loop Track is 5.5 km's or 2-3  hours from jetty to jetty

Hut Details: Otamahua/Quail Island Hut: Serviced: 12 bunks, wood burner, water tank, wood shed, flush toilet

Miscellaneous: The hut is on the DOC booking system, must be booked for overnight visit. Drinking water is available from the hut, take only what you need as it is in short supply. The old Akaroa Lighthouse Keepers Cottage is due to become a new single user hut. 

You Tube Link: An evening stroll on Otamahua/Quail Island

                            Dinner preparation on Quail Island