A quick glance at the huts on the Heaphy Track
I recently finished walking the Heaphy Track and I thought it would worthwhile to highlight the fantastic array of huts you will find along the track. There are six huts and eight shelters along the track and they provide overnight accommodation and sheltered lunch spots for all the riders and trampers who cover the track.
Jon on the MacKay Downs, Heaphy Track |
I walked the Heaphy Track from Brown River to Kohaihai so let us follow the huts in that direction and find out a bit more about each of them...
Brown River to Perry Saddle Hut:
The first day on the Heaphy Track is the walk from the Brown River carpark to Perry Saddle Hut...it is 18 km's over 5-6 hours...
Brown River Shelter:
First shelter on the Heaphy Track is the day shelter at the Brown River road end. It is a relatively new building built in the last couple of years and has covered seating, a water tank and a set of flush toilets. It is mainly intended as a covered waiting point for people taking transport out to Takaka and Nelson.
The day shelter at the Brown River carpark, Kahurangi NP |
The Heaphy Track begins right next to the shelter... |
Brown Hut:
Brown Hut is the first hut along the Heaphy Track and is just 200 meters down the track from the Brown River car park. It is the second oldest hut on the track and is often used as the starting point for late arriving people walking the track, overnight visitors and anglers. The Brown River is a noted trout fishery and the shuttle driver and I were talking about fishing in the local rivers on the way to the track.
Brown Hut (1971), Kahurangi NP |
I stayed in Brown Hut back in the early 1990's when my partner (at that time) and I walked into the old Perry Saddle Hut. We spent the night there after arriving late and then set out to the next hut the following morning. I liked the hut as it is super quirky with the stonework around the foundation and the Brown River is very close to the hut.
Brown Hut has sleeping platforms for sixteen people |
I love sleeping platforms in a hut and when I think of a backcountry hut they are one of the images I see in my mind. Brown Hut has these funky deeply varnished ones.
Nice!!!
FYI: there are camping sites next to and around the hut and there is enough space here for about 10 tents in total!!!
Specifications:
Great Walk Hut: 16 bunks, 10 campsites, water from tanks, wood burner, flush toilets, picnic tables
Aorere Shelter:
Aorere Shelter is the first of the campsite shelters on the Heaphy Track when walking from north to south. It is an open, three sided structure with seating inside and out and is immediately adjacent to the campsite. Several of the older campsite shelters on the Heaphy Track are built to this pattern and it is a very well thought out and useful design.
Aorere Shelter (1980's), Kahurangi NP |
The inside of the Aorere Shelter on the Heaphy Track |
Perry Saddle Hut:
Perry Saddle Hut is where most people will spend the first night of their tramp on the Heaphy Track. It is at the end of the long six hour climb up from Brown Hut and it is a welcome sight as it rolls into view from near Lookout Point. The hut is located on the northern edge of Perry Saddle which links the Tasman coast with the downlands you cover on day three.
Perry Saddle Hut (2012), Kahurangi NP |
Living space inside Perry Saddle Hut, Kahurangi NP |
Kaka Bunkroom at Perry Saddle Hut |
Great Walk Hut: 28 bunks, water from tanks, wood burner, flush toilets, picnic tables
Perry Saddle Campsite Shelter:
Each of the larger Heaphy Track huts has a co-located campsite with space for 5-10 tents and Perry Saddle is no exception. There is a separate campsite shelter as campers are not permitted to use the living space inside a Great Walk hut. Your average Great Walk hut has from 20-40 visitors each night and adding another 10-20 people would make for crowded conditions...
Perry Saddle Hut to James MacKay Hut:
The second day of the track starts out in the forest near Perry Saddle but you will soon find yourself crossing the tussock covered downland of Gouland Downs and MacKay Downs. Some people will walk to James MacKay Hut in one day (24km's or 6-9 hours!!!) but you can also stop for the night at either Gouland Downs Hut or Saxon Hut along the way.
Gouland Downs Hut:
Gouland Downs Hut is the oldest hut on the Heaphy Track and it has a lot of charm with its cosy rustic interior, open fireplace and ton of history. This was originally a deer cullers hut before the track was recut and it has been in continuous use since it was built in 1957.
Gouland Downs Hut (1957), Kahurangi NP |
The interior of Gouland Downs Hut.... |
Specifications:
Great Walk Hut: 8 bunks, water from tanks, open fire, flush toilets, picnic tables
Saxon Hut:
I think Saxon Hut was my favorite on this track...it is smaller than the newer huts but it really reminds me of other serviced huts I have visited around the country. Saxon Hut is located on the edge of Gouland Downs and I think it is a better accommodation option than walking all the way from Perry Saddle to James MacKay Hut in one day.
Saxon Hut (1984), Kahurangi NP |
Great Walk Hut: 16 bunks, 5 campsites, water from tanks, wood burner, flush toilets, picnic tables
James MacKay Hut:
James MacKay Hut marks the dividing line between the sub alpine downland and the forest you will be passing through on your descent down to the Lewis River on the second to last day of your trip. It sits right on the edge of MacKay Downs and on a fine day the mouth of the Heaphy River is clearly visible in the distance.
James MacKay Hut (2012), Kahurangi NP |
Inside one of the bunkrooms at James MacKay Hut |
Specifications:
Great Walk Hut: 28 bunks, water from tanks, wood burner, flush toilets, picnic tables
James MacKay Campsite Shelter:
James MacKay is the most exposed of the hut and campsite locations on the Heaphy Track so I was expecting a heavy duty campsite shelter and I was not mistaken. The new shelter here is a nearly enclosed structure with only a door sized gap on one wall open to the air. It looks like one of those DOC relocatable staff quarters which has been repurposed.
James MacKay Campsite Shelter (2020), Kahurangi NP |
Interior of the new campsite shelter at James MacKay Hut |
The platform tent sites at James MacKay Campsite |
Ministry of Works Hut:
Now...right from the start I am going to tell you to seriously think before undertaking the trip to the MOW Hut on MacKay Downs. This is a serious off track trip with significant consequences if you get lost enroute to the hut. It should only be attempted by people with excellent backcountry experience, navigation skills, good maps AND a GPS unit.
DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS ROUTE unless you have these skills and equipment!!!
The Ministry of Works Hut is the most original SF70 six bunk hut left in New Zealand and is a Mecca level acquisition for serious hut baggers. There is no marked track and some serious bush bashing is required to access the hut.
The Ministry of Works Hut in Kahurangi NP |
The Ministry of Works Hut was built in the early 1970's when the then Ministry of Works were contemplating building a road from Collingwood to Karamea. They were serious about this project as government surveyors spent nearly two years plotting the route of the road before it was decided it would be too difficult and costly to build.
Bush bashing from the Heaphy Track to the MOW Hut |
The MOW Hut can be accessed from the Heaphy Track as a side trip or as part of the longer Heaphy River to Kahurangi Lighthouse Route. It would require an additional two days from the Heaphy Track as it is rough and rugged terrain. You need one day to get to the hut and another to get back to the Heaphy Track on top of walking the Heaphy Track itself.
Typical terrain over MacKay Downs you will cross... |
There are possible routes from James MacKay Hut, Horrible Creek and Blueshirt Creek and there are many discussions of these routes online. The most straightforward is up Blueshirt Creek but all of them cross a confusing mix of downs, thick bush, creek beds and swamp. Only 10-20 parties make it here each year which gives you an idea of the intensity of the route.
You drop off this bridge near Blueshirt Creek...to get to MOW Hut |
I am only including this here as an increasing number of people are attempting the route to the hut and it is something you can consider if your skills are up to the task. Be forewarned...it is tiger country!!!
James Mackay Hut to Kohaihai:
From James MacKay Hut you are dropping down to the confluence of the Lewis and Heaphy River before spending two solid hours walking along the river and out to the coast. For me it was the longest day of the track at 21 km's and over 6 hours and even though it is mostly downhill you will still be tired when you get to Heaphy Hut.
Lewis Shelter:
In 2020 DOC decided to remove the old Lewis Hut from its location at the confluence of the Lewis and Heaphy Rivers. This hut was similar to Saxon Hut and was a useful place to stay for those walking south to north along the track.
The old Lewis Hut (1970's-2021) |
The hut was removed as erosion had started to seriously threaten the hut site and it was decided that it should be replaced with a day shelter only. It was only completed in October of 2021 about a month before I started the track.
Lewis Shelter (2021), Kahurangi NP |
Interior of the new Lewis Shelter on the Heaphy Track |
The other end of the interior space at the Lewis shelter... |
The taps and sinks on the exterior of Lewis Shelter |
View of the Lewis Shelter from the veranda... |
Heaphy Hut:
Heaphy Hut (2014), Kahurangi NP |
Interior of Heaphy Hut at the mouth of the Heaphy river |
View up the Heaphy River Valley from the estuary |
This family caught three big fish at the Heaphy River Estuary |
Specifications:
Great Walk Hut: 32 bunks, water from tanks, wood burner, flush toilets, picnic tables
Heaphy Campsite Shelter:
There is a campsite at Heaphy Beach and it has space for over 20 tents on a large and well groomed area of grass in front of the hut. The shelter is to the same design as the Aorere and Katipo Creek locations and has interior seating, toilets, tap water and sinks...
Heaphy Campsite Shelter (1980's), Kahurangi NP |
Interior of the campsite shelter at the Heaphy River |
Katipo Creek Shelter:
Katipo Creek Shelter is the last shelter on the actual track and services the small campsite located next to the Katipo Creek bridge. It is the half way point between Heaphy Hut and Kohaihai and it is the natural place to stop for a break as you make your way between them.
Katipo Creek Shelter (1980's), Kahurangi NP |
The interior of the Katipo Creek Shelter |
Kohaihai Shelter:
Kohaihai Day Shelter (1980's), Kahurangi NP |
Kohaihai Shelter...typical DOC day shelter seen at many road-ends. |
So there you go all the huts and shelters you are likely to encounter along the Heaphy Track. There are some real beauties on this track and DOC has provided a variety of huts and campsite shelters for you to stay at while you are walking or riding the track.
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