Buyers Tips: Personal Locator Beacon's (PLB)

Tips when purchasing a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB)

 Beside tramping boots a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) will probably be one of the most expensive pieces of kit in any tramper's arsenal. They are also known as Rescue Beacons, EPIRB's or Safety Beacons. With prices ranging from $350 right up to $1300 they are a piece of kit which requires some research and thought before buying. 

Tramper with a GME Personal Locator Beacon...

I recently brought a PLB, so here are a few tips I discovered while researching my purchase.

What is a PLB and how does it work?

 In basic terms, a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) is an electronic safety device that when activated sends a distress signal to a satellite. The satellite system informs the rescue authorities in your location who then initiate a Search and Rescue (SAR) operation to come to your assistance. This is a very basic description of the process but you get the main idea... 

The PLB activation sequence...what happens!!!

Most rescue missions are undertaken by a helicopter as it is the fastest and most direct way to gain access to the person who set the beacon off. The usual response time is 2-4 hours but it can take much longer. There are only a few SAR helicopters on duty and they may be busy and need to triage who they assist first. Also a helicopter cannot fly in adverse conditions in which case a much longer ground rescue might be the response. 

The Westpac Rescue Helicopter's undertake many rescues in the South Island

SAR responses will also be undertaken by boat, vehicle or on foot depending on the location and resources. The SAR Rescue Center will make a decision on how the rescue is carried out taking into account all the information they have at their command.  

Please note: There are two frequencies PLB's operate on: 122.5 Mhz and 406 Mhz. Only 406 Mhz beacons are monitored in New Zealand so please check if your PLB will work here if you are visiting from another country.

Why buy a PLB?

What a personal locator beacon offers is a measure of security. If you or a member of your party has an accident which precludes walking then this is your quickest means of summoning assistance. Why wait for days when using your PLB could mean assistance within hours.

A SAR rescue operation in progress in 2015

 

While PLB's are useful for all outdoor folk they should probably be required equipment for solo tramper's. When you tramp solo you are completely reliant on your own abilities/actions to get home so if you get injured you will not be able to self rescue. In cases like these having a PLB could be the difference between life and death...

Where should I buy?

Most PLB buyers will purchase their beacon from a local hunting, boating or outdoor shop. It is probably preferable to buy local as warranties and servicing will be easier to obtain. I have brought my beacon from Hunting & Fishing here in Christchurch but they are sold at most of the major outdoor retailers including Bivouac, Macpac, Kathmandu, Hutch Wilco and Torpedo 7. 

Hunting & Fishing Tower Junction...

There are also a number of on-line New Zealand based suppliers, Aviation Safety Supplies Ltd is the most well known but they are also available from online retailers like Gearshop.  You can buy your beacon on-line from overseas but be aware that they will need to be re-programmed to work in this country, this costs approximately $120.

Common brands and prices

There are numerous brands and types of beacon's available, I will discuss several of the most common brands I have encountered while tramping in New Zealand:

ACR ResQLink:

One of the larger locator beacon manufacturers is ACR, with their ResQLink beacon. Importantly the ACR ResQLink is the beacon used by the Police, Armed Forces, NZ Search and Rescue (SAR) and the Southland Locator Beacon Charity.

ACR ResQLink PLB

 

The company produces a number of beacons, the more expensive are GPS capable. GPS capability means that the potential search radius is much smaller as GPS units are accurate to 10-30 meters. Non GPS equipped beacons have a 100 meters radius by comparison. That might not sound like much but 100 meters is a huge area to search in rough, broken or thickly forested areas. You want a GPS capable beacon!

Standard pricing ranges from $500-$700 depending on the retailer. 

Fast Find McMurdo:

Another brand is the McMurdo 220, they are smaller than the ACR beacons but have very similar features.

McMurdo Fast Find 220 PLB

 These beacons float which is an important factor to consider when using it in the wet New Zealand back-country. I have been told it is slightly more difficult to extend the antenna on these, but have not tried myself. Again, these range in price from $530-$700 depending on where you purchase the unit.

Ocean Signal RescueMe PLB1:

Ocean Signal is a well known manufacturer of safety equipment for boaters and the sea faring set and one of the items they produce are PLB/EPIRB's. An EPIRB is a Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon...they work much the same as a PLB using satellites to send a rescue position to the authorities but they operate on the 121.5 Mhz range and tend to be larger and heavier than ground use PLB's. They have a longer battery life (typically 10 years) and most have the ability to automatically deploy when the vessel sinks. Their weight and size generally make them unsuitable for trampers. 

An Ocean Signal EPIRB device

One of the other devices the company produces is the RescueMe PLB1 which is currently the smallest and lightest PLB device on the market. They also have the longest battery life at 7 years. I have seen more and more of these units being carried by trampers and they are becoming one of the main PLB suppliers.

Prices for an Ocean Signal PLB1 are slightly more than some of the others brands with a standard price of around $600-$700. If these units were a little cheaper they would be my recommended device...it is hard to go past the lower weight and size of these. 

AccuSat GME MT410G:

I have seen a couple of people with AccuSat GME beacons, cost is around $500 from Aviation Safety Supplies based in Hamilton. They have a hard protective outer casing on them, an excellent feature as PLB's tend to get knocked around. Because of this they are slightly heavier than the ACR and McMurdo Beacons.

GME MT410G PLB

I believe they are aimed at the boating community more than tramper's but they basically work the same way so can be used for terrestrial as well as aquatic environments..

Here is some info from their site:

"The MT410 and MT410g provide the aviator and or the outdoor adventurer with a 406 MHz PLB that is not only affordable, but provides enhanced peace of mind for boaters, bush walkers, 4 x 4 enthusiasts and aviators should they ever require emergency assistance."

SPOT Find Me:

You can buy a Spot Find Me for around $300, and they are the smallest and lightest of the five PLB's shown here. They have excellent GPS enabled tracking functions and allow for pre-programmed messages to be sent to designated people.

SPOT Find Me PLB

    One negative feature is a US  $150 per annum fee to register it...so you would be looking at $1200 for the 6 year battery life of the unit. Worth considering if the ability to message your loved ones is important to you.

Garmin inReach and inReach Mini:

The last of the brands of beacon worth discussing is the Garmin inReach and inReach Mini...these are a hybrid between a PLB and a messaging device. They act much like a SPOT device with the ability to send AND receive messages via satellite...obviously this is a very useful ability. Importantly there is no need for an annual payment to use the service which makes them a more economical option. 

These Garmin devices have an SOS function allowing you to summon assistance in the manner of a PLB. The most capable model is also a GPS unit with the ability to load topographic maps and track information. I can see these devices eventually dominating the market BUT the downside is that they are currently quite expensive with prices ranging from $600-$1300 depending on model. 

My beacon: ACR ResQLink

In the end I decided to buy a ACR ResQLink and there were three main reasons for this:

PLB size comparison: McMurdo, Rescueme and ResQLink

Familiarity: I have hired these beacons before and found them light and easy to use.

  

Price: I brought mine for $530 from Hunting and Fishing (Ballingers) in Christchurch. This was the best price within New Zealand for a ResQLink PLB, the other suppliers were selling them for up to $630. This was also one of the lower PLB prices regardless of brand.

Functionality: These are the easiest to use of the five beacons: the antenna is easy to extend and requires minimal pressure to do so. The controls are obvious and really simple to use. One feature I really like are the instructions printed on the PLB itself.

The ACR ResQLink in the deployed setting

Personally, I would recommend that every tramping party carry a PLB. The added layer of security they offer is certainly worth the price and weight.

My tramping gear: ACR Res Q Link 365 Personal Locator Beacon

My Personal Locator Beacon

I usually carry a Personal Locator Beacon or PLB with me when I'm out tramping. Up to now I have been hiring one for each trip but I have finally managed to save enough shekels to buy my own.

My ACR 365 Locator Beacon

I brought myself a ACR ResQLink PLB so that I will always have one with me when I'm out tramping. In basic terms, PLB use a satellite network to send a distress message to your local Police force who then coordinate any Search and Rescue operations.

ACR ResQLink 365 PLB

 These are the same used by the Southland PLB Charity and are one of the brands recommended by New Zealand Search and Rescue (SAR). The cost was $550 from the Hunting and Fishing store here in Christchurch, this was $50 cheaper than any other domestic supplier.

That's one of the reasons everyone doesn't own one, they are bloody expensive!

Instructions for use on the back of the ResQLink PLB

I think most people recognize the usefulness of carrying a PLB, especially if like me you do a lot of solo tramping. Although it is not a "get out of jail free card" it does give you a small measure of added safety in the outdoors.

Update: September 2021

I replaced this beacon with a later model in September 2021 as the battery in my old unit has expired. My new beacon is another ACR ResQLink this time a model 425 with a digital screen. 

My new model 425 ACR ResQLink beacon...

Hopefully I never have to use it as I never had to set off my old beacon in the six years I had it. 

Hiking Shoes vs. Hiking Boots: My personal thoughts on this discussion.

Sandals, shoes or boots: what to wear tramping? 

Hiking/tramping footwear comes in a plethora of shapes and sizes. Hiking shoes, hiking sandals, cross trainers, mountain running shoes, different brands and different versions – the options are mind numbing to contemplate!

A day hike to the Bealey Glacier in my Lowa boots....

What are the differences? When are boots better than shoes and vice versa? Is it worth the price difference to buy boots? We’ll start with some basic features of each and then elaborate on which conditions demand which type of “boot”.

Hiking Sandal

It may come as a bit of a surprise, but hiking sandals can be a great option for a casual hiker. Sandals are light, which means you aren’t going to expend as much energy moving your feet over the course of the trip. They are perfect for water crossings or as camp shoes. Many people prefer a sandal with some kind of toe guard to help protected against rocks and roots.

Keen Newport H2 sandal

Hiking sandals are best used for short well maintained trails or as a lite back up when their primary boots are temporarily out of commission. An example would be the Abel Tasman Coastal Track during summer. Nice, well graded tracks, a lot of tidal crossings, warm weather conditions.

For perspective, some chap walked the whole 3000 km Te Araroa Trail in sandals a couple of years ago, so just walking the Abel Tasman would be luxury...ay, sheer luuuxxxurriiieeeee!

Naresh Kumar walked the whole 300 kilometer Te Araroa Trail in sandals

Look for sandals with similar features to most good hiking shoes: tough stitching, quality materials, tough soles (Vibram if you have a choice), and good arch supports. Keen are one of the major brands for sandals, I own a pair of their Newport H2 sandals and they are rugged and comfortable to wear.

Trail Shoes or Hiking Shoes

Trail shoes are all the rage in long trail communities due to their compromise between comfort and functionality. They are sturdier than your average running shoe because of their thicker soles and leather reinforced fabrics while at the same time are lighter and more comfortable than standard tramping boots.

La Sportiva Lead trail shoes

Because of their versatility, trails shoe styles have started to become part of a more mainstream fashion. Be sure to double check standard quality measures such as stitching, arch support, waterproofing, and lace design so as to avoid buying shoes that look like trail shoes but don’t function the same way.

Good brands include: Salomen/Innov8/La Sportiva/Salewa/Merrell/Asolo

Trail Running Shoes

Trail running has exploded in popularity in recent years. Shoes designed specifically for trail running are similar to standard trail shoes with a few subtle differences.

Asics Sonoma,  lite mountain trail shoes

 Most trail running shoes have a bit more padding, tough soles, and slightly more ankle support. These shoes can be quite expensive, so if you aren’t planning on running up the mountain, you can probably go with a standard trail shoe.

Good brands include: Innov8/Salomon/Asics/La Sportiva/Hoka

Mid-weight Tramping boot

Many people would just call this “a hiking boot”. A mid weight boot is what most people think of when they think of tramping footwear. They will have extra ankle support, stiff foot support, and a reinforced leather or synthetic outer layer.

Synthetic Salewa Mountain Trainer Mid

They are versatile and rarely feel like overkill on a trail of moderate difficulty. Sure, they will be a bit heavier, but unless you are using them on a multi-day, long term trek, you probably won’t even notice. Don’t forget to look for the signs of quality: a toe rand, good quality soles (Vibram is best), quality inner soles and a Gore-Tex inner lining if that is your thing.

Leather Vasque St Elias GTX boots

Remember to give yourself time to break in all new boots. While modern boots take significantly less time to break in than old style all leather ones, you should still dedicate at least three to four days to breaking in your new boots. I wear mine to work for a couple of weeks, this usually does the trick.

My daughter in some Lowa mid weight boots

Good brands include: Salewa/Vasque/Asolo/Lowa/La Sportiva

Heavy Boot

Unless you plan on spending a significant amount of time out in the bush where there are no fixed trails, it is hard to justify a heavy boot. The heavy boot is therefore much favoured by mountaineers, hunters and bush bashers.

If you do fall into the category of hard arsed bush pig, then you know that a heavy boot can be your best friend.

Lowa Tibet GTX

A good heavy boot should feel like a cross between mountaineering boots and a hiking boot. They should provide extra grip with knobby soles and be crampon compatible. The ankle support should not only protect your ankle from twisting but also protect your lower calve area. Expect to see above the ankle lacing and a full rubber rand to protect against rock cuts.

Me wearing some Lowa Tibet boots on the Travers-Sabine Circuit in 2017

Of course, for all of this protection you pay a price. Heavy boots are, well, heavy! In fact they can be god-damn soul destroying heavy if you are walking a long way. They are also expensive, most are European made and you will not see much change from $600-$700 dollars.

Meindal Bhutan MFS boots

 Don’t expect them to be super comfortable either. These kinds of boots are designed for hard work and will be overkill for anything else! Think combat boots: you are the soldier and nature is the enemy...vanquish it with your colossal boots!

My heavy weight Lowa Tibets..note size 14 feet!!!!

Some well known manufacturers include: Haix/Lowa/Meindl/Carrimor/La Sportiva

When do I need hiking boots?

When trails are particularly rocky, covered in roots, or are made uneven by other objects in the trail.

When the trail is wet/very muddy.

When there the possibility of rolling your ankle is high.

When trails are exceptionally steep.

When hiking in the snow.

e.g: walking up the Joe River to the Olivine Wilderness area, crossing Waiau Pass, hunting in Fiordland

Boots are useful in muddy conditions.....

...boots are also suited to those rocky alpine areas like Mt Travers...Waiau Pass etc.

When will hiking shoes be OK?

Well maintained even trails

Day hikes

Trail running

Camp sites

e.g: Most of the Great Walks, The Queen Charlotte Track, most of the Te Araroa Trail, Te Ara Pataka

The Queen Charlotte Track can be walked in trail runners....

When will sandals do the business?

Well maintained trails, in warm weather.

Short beach walks.

River journeys

Camp sites

e.g: The Abel Tasman Coastal Walk, the Wanganui River Journey

The Able Tasman Coastal Walk is sandal friendly....in summer...

What about Jon's footwear? 

What you may ask does Jon wear on his feet: good question!

Jon Tramping: boots and gaiters on the Lewis Pass Tops, these are La Sportiva Valojets

I have used all these types of footwear at one time or another, starting with full leather ex army combat boots and going right down to trail sandals. I seem to be going lighter as I get older, lunking about in those kilo a boot combats just don't appeal like it once did!

Currently I am wearing sandals, trail shoes and mid weight boots.

La Sportiva boots on the QCT in 2016

I use Keen Newport H2's as my hiking sandals, wear Asic Sonoma's for walking and some day walks and have Lowa Ranger III as my leather mid weight boot. I also have a pair of Lowa Tibet calve high boots for serious tramping in alpine and rocky river bashing areas.

Wearing my Lowa Ranger boots on MacKinnon Pass, Fiordland in 2018

My foot in a Lowa Tibet boot up the Waimakiriri River Valley in 2018

Wilderness Survival Kits: Make an outdoor survival kit

One kit to save them all...

A popular challenge within the outdoor community is to build a small and thorough Survival Kit.  Building a kit of this type is an interesting project with some very valuable rewards. First, it’s fairly inexpensive to build. Second, it puts you in the survival mind-set and forces you to think creatively about how and what you need for surviving. The small size of the kit helps you get your priorities straight real fast. 

Using the kit

Small survival kits are perfect for carrying at all times.  They are small & lightweight and fit in a small bag or jacket pocket. If you are going on a day walk or you take your pack off carry your survival kit with you. I chuck mine in my pocket EVERY time I walk more than 5 metres away from my gear.

My lightweight Survival Kit

I have use an old Dunhill cigarette tin, but any small light metal tin will work. I have sealed mine with insulation tape. The kit needs to be sealed to stop water getting in, you only open it when you have an emergency.

My wilderness survival kit

Below are my general thoughts about the main contents of the kit:

Fire Starting:

I like to pack at least 2 methods for starting a fire. I packed in 4 waterproof matches and taped a match strike strip on the underside of the lid. I also packed a mini "Bic" lighter and 2 different types of tinder – 1 cotton based and some old bicycle inner tube.

Cutting Tool:

A sharp blade is useful:  a small folding knife, a razor blade or small Exacto blade. I have a small 27 gm Gerber folding knife in mine. For it’s size, it is a very solid and reliable knife. It’s perfect for many typical camp/survival/bushcraft chores. I have also taped a box cutter blade to the lid of the tin.

Survival kit contents: Gerber Paraframe I

Signalling:

In my opinion you can use the tin itself for signalling. It’s not quite as shiny as a mirror but should do just fine. Just buff up the inside silver a bit and you’re ready to go.

Whistle:

I have a small survival whistle in my kit which I received free with a first aid/survival kit I brought for my car.

Survival whistle similar to my own

Compass:

This is an important item, you should pack a small compass! You can often find one of these on a cheap key chain or purchase one.  Mine came free with a Vaude pack I brought in 2014.

Free Silva button compass

Duct Tape:

Very useful survival tool for cordage or random repairs to everything. You can tear it into strips to add length. I wrap a couple of meter's worth around my walking pole but also have a small rolled up length in my survival kit.



Survival kit contents: Duct tape wrapped around trek pole

Needle & Thread:

Use these for clothing or gear repair. Pack a strong nylon thread – it can double as fishing line, snares or other cordage needs.

Thin Wire:

Think picture hanging wire thickness...you can use this for snares, repairs and many other applications. I have about 1.5 metres in my kit, I wrapped it around 3 fingers and then tied it off to take up less space. 

Picture hanging wire...$7 NZD for 7 metres at local store

Safety Pins:

Can be used for temporary clothing/gear repairs and as an emergency suture (ouch!!!...I have had to do this on someone before...not pleasant!). 

Safety pins: fish hooks, clothing/gear repair and suture all in one!

Fishing Hooks:

Self explanatory – you can a pack a few sizes for birds/fish, etc…you will probably never use them but they are a worthwhile addition.

Flash-light:

A compact button LED light is a good addition. These are bright and cheap, they also last a long time. Some people prefer to pack small candles.

Water Purification:

You can boil water in the tin itself. I prefer to pack 4-6 chlorine tablets. It takes 1 tablet to purify 1 litre so 4 tablets can purify 4 litres of water.



Aquatabs: Chlorine based water purification tablets

Medical Supplies:

Adhesive bandages are small and easy to pack. I also pack 2 pain reliever pills and alcohol wipes for disinfecting a cut/wound.

Note Paper & Pencil:

You never know when you need to leave a note. I bought a pad of waterproof paper and cut it to size to fit my tin. Also added a small HB pencil to write with.

Other Random Items:
Salt Pack – take with water to fight dehydration.
Sugar Pack – take for quick energy
Paper Clip – use a binding/button/hook/light weight 'biner etc…
Barley sugars– quick energy (or some other hard candy)
Medication – any necessary medication you need

Classic fare: Heards Barley Sugar

The Tin Container Itself:

The tin itself is both a container and part of your survival kit. You can use it: 

• to make char cloth
• as a drinking/cooking/boiling container
•  as a signal mirror

There are countless other items to consider packing in a mini survival kit.  As long as the key survival bases are covered, your creativity is the limit.

  These are suggested guidelines only…there are no right and wrong contents. If you think it is important then add it, just try to keep it lightweight.

Remember....it’s YOUR kit.

Camp Footwear: Is this the perfect camp shoe?

A tale of camp footwear...or footwear for camp!

Wearing your tramping boots/shoes 24/7 while tramping can lead to many foot problems. The damp, warm conditions are ideal for blisters, chaffing and a number of fungal foot conditions. Once you arrive at your destination you need to remove that wet footwear, but what should it be replaced with? Your choice is simple: either nothing, socks or some other kind of footwear.

Jon sans boots in Nina Hut, 2017

Personally I love getting into a hut or camp and slipping off my boots to let my feet breath au natural. Not the nicest thing for other hut mates though, and your feet will get dirty and cold. Socks...much the same so the main solution is another kind of shoe.

Camp shoes for evening attire

I find it hard to quantify exactly what I am looking for in a camp shoe... always I have been unable to balance weight, utility and comfort.. I have experimented with a number of different types: shoes, sandals, jandals...

From classic Kiwi jandals...

I've even tried Crocs (knock off's, not the real ones, real Croc's cost $70+ in New Zealand...). None were 'quite right'.

...to knock off Croc's

I think that may have changed, introducing my new camp sandal: the Bedrock Gabbro Lite:

Bedrock Grabbo Lite

The Bedrock Gabbro Lite is super light (just 116gm) and has a quality Vibram sole. I first saw these on an American hiking site I visit, and thought they looked like a good solution. You are able to buy both replacement soles and straps for these sandals which is a great innovation.If it is cold or the bugs are biting you need to team these with toe socks.

Bedrock Gabbro Lite

I brought a pair off Amazon and had them shipped to New Zealand for a very reasonable price. I took them with me on my last trip to Hawdon Hut and they performed well: they are hard wearing, stiff enough and light to carry.

Obviously,  these type of sandals offer no protection to your feet at all, so wear your boots/shoes when cutting wood etc. Many is the tale of the chopped up foot clothed in a flip flop...just don't do it!

You can of course forget about camp footwear but then you are liable to get cold, dirty feet and the ground is often rocky or hard. Not great when they are your only means of transportation.

You should check out the website for Bedrock gear